These 20 Minutes videos are amazing. often I find myself thinking do you never finish a job. But I always wait patiently for the next one. 20 Minutes of my life pass by so quickly. Wonderful job your doing on this restoration.
Looks very good! Only a tip! You've placed the rubber gasket at the wrong spot. It should be between the metal and the wood not on the wood. So, Outside Exhaust > Gasket > Boat > Gasket > Wooden spacer > Nut Good job 👍🏻
You should have opened the Facebook group earlier 🙂. I've got a fair bit of professional experience in spray painting and I cringed a few times during this video. I knew most of the issues you were running into before I saw them in the video. But you seemed to have resolved the issues in the end and the result looks nice. I do admire your perseverance 🙂 Personally I don't think I would have sprayed it. You can have great results with rollers to, especially when you take the time sanding between layers, as you did with spraying. Spraying is pretty expensive in the end, you need a lot of gear and you use a lot more varnish.
I've watch you from the start...you what people would be jealous..hehehe dedication and perseverance and voila....a perfect job...you should pat yourself in the back...hehehe I wished it's summer in Australia hehehe 😜
When you drill a hole through the metal profiles to bolt something on it is best to prime and paint the exposed metal in the hole to avoid rust to start.
Really good to see your boat coming along well. When varnishing, i was always told, and always do, use a 50/50 "thinned" first couple of coats, so the bare wood absorbs it really well, then load up with neat varnish. End grain always needs 2 or 3x the amount, as end grain is super absorbant, like a sponge. Your boat is looking good.
Yes as a professional woodworker the idea of a thinned first coat is the best way to proceed but I suggest a 10% diluted mix. Then build up full costs with a gentle denibbing between coats
If you don't mind me saying I think it may have been better to fully tank the inside of a shower. Thus fully waterproofing it with the confidence and knowledge to know that all the water stays inside the shower. Probably would have been quicker than vanishing. Or there are so many different shapes and sizes of shower cubicles these days including a half D shape that may have been better. You did do a good job and overcome any problems can't wait to see it fully finished. .
Yes I agree with the total tanking as this technique will more or less guarantee no leaking at all. You need to minimise, nay, avoid all seams , joints etc . Whilst the birch ply fitting was done excellently I doubt the quadrant beading will prevent water seeping through. I shall be converting a tiny WC cabin on a Dutch Cruiser into a shower room. After stripping it right back I shall fabricate shower tray in situ using fibreglass . Walls will be the thin light composite board specifically designed and made for shower fitting in caravan, camper vans and boats. You can also buy the special corner beading therefore ensuring a water tight job
I loved your process and your discovering new skills was fun to watch. As a building contractor I would have chosen different materials for the shower interior. Pic panels can be worked much like the plywood you used. Or seal your interior with fiberglass over the plywood. They built boats that way for years so your shower should be fine. Plus it will be much easier to clean once you start using it. Good luck, keep on learning and experimenting.
Hey man, I really enjoy ur vids. It’s rare talent u have for not only rehabbing ur vessels but also editing and producing high quality informational videos. Thanks for sharing this with us and hope to many more years of watching u work. It’s inspiring
Asa mostly self taught DIY guy I appreciate the effort you put in to do all that you can yourself. Failure or less then stellar results can often teach more than anything else if you can see where it went wrong. Been watching for a while now and am still watching so keep having fun!
Nice work and progress! Though the problem with plywood made of birch is that it swell when in contact with water/humidity. Because of that I chose to use Okoume plywood,, check it out upon your next visit to the lumber yard - maybe they have it available.
Yes the best plywood and most expensive would be WBP Marine Plywood that is specifically designed for this purpose. It will not delaminate if wet and the adhesive used to make this plywood is resistant to virtually anything
Watch some cabinetry videos. Ive been a cabinet maker for decades and you would do very well with just a little tutelage on the matter. You have many talents and your vids are great to watch. Ciao. From Canada
Another way you can do that is gives you a separate tank just a regular tank not a whole compressor impressor put your pressure valve in a water separator is water separator on that tank run your compressor into that tank and your air to your spray gun out of that tank and then spray because you will get more efficiency out of that 2nd tank then you will out of the air compressor and the air compressor still will run at the proper level
Nice you told, it took you almost forever to put together all the parts of your shower cabin! It just looks so easy and like done by itself in your videos, but indeed it is a work that takes a high amount of hours, also by works you have to repeat and repeat again, until they match your vision. But well done! I admire your patience and the absolute precisement you're working with! They're the details which do count! 👍🏼
Re Facebook question. As long as the engine (inboard or outboard) is installed on the centre line and tankage the same or either side of you should be fine, being a barge you are going to have add a quite a lot of ballast to get her to sit at the correct level in the water. You'll also be fitting her out adding weight, any list or leveling can be carried out in the water at rest by adding more ballast opposite the list. As for the water line, you'll know that when she goes in the water as you don't know the final displacement, perhaps a chat to a local marine surveyor may point you right direction or if they're still around the builders. I've not fitted a bow thruster to a barge only a couple on grp yachts, the cuting, glassing in, fitting the thruster to the tube is simple but marking the cut out for the tube in the hull is easy to get wrong if you've not been shown, however, Installation may be completely different on the barge. There is a water jet bow/stern thruster system available which would mean cutting 3 much smaller holes in the hull (1 intake and 2 outlets) but may be worth looking at from a ease of install direction. Apologies for responding on here, I have no fb account so can only read the post.
Is this boat a barge ? Not from my viewing . He calls it a yacht and I would say it very similar to the Dutch Cruiser boats that are very popular on the canal’s in UK
That looks great! You should be proud of your excellent work! I always enjoy a new video from you, can't wait for you to start on your new big barge project!
Insects in paint are best left until the paint is dry then you can razor the legs and the result will be invisible ... unless they were strong enough to squirm after the paint stopped leveling itself, doubtful.
Very interesting videos for me as I may well be having to build something similar on my daughters 30 foot Dutch Cruiser. It’s an all steel boat with a small cabin that is the WC. Probably will convert to a wet room with the Thetford easily lifted out of the way when the shower is required. Will gut the cabin first in order to maximise the space. Am tempted to use the waterproof coated shower panels and depending on what is available, fibreglass shower tray or fabricate a bespoke tray in situ. Anyone with suggestions, advice, experience?
I'm just a little bit worried about moisture and wood in the bathroom area, might want to think about replacing some items in the future with plastic if the wood starts to warp.
Nice work! i do wonder how the water will drain and if you have taken into consideration sealing the gaps and seams to avoid leaks into the main quarters and below. Typically in a shower enclosure the bottom is like a tub that directs all the water into the drain and away from the edges.
In the 1st episode he already thought of that . He's made the floor to slope towards the drain. So there will be no issues also he isn't done an I'm completely sure he will seal all that needs it ... As he pays great attention to detail....
@@donnakawana After a couple episodes ;-) He is doin good tho and actualy fixes anything he did wrong wich is why he is one of my favorite creators on here
@@donnakawana I know he said that but personally I am doubtful as to how well his very minimal slope will work. I would go for a very pronounce angle to the drain connect the drain to the bottom of the board so as to create a slight sump over it and put a sill in the doorway.
Yes that’s what I was thinking as you did not appear to cut out any holes for the water pipes and waste. I assume you were going to seal every joint and over the beading ?
The doors both need a strip of either plastic or aluminium for the door wheels to run along as well as waterproof edge strip to stop egress of water. As you have it the wheel will wear the door eventually and water will seep out. I'm not sure this process will work in the shower. You could have saved tons of work by buying shower sheeting.....these come in a variety of designs or plain colours. Simply cut to size and afix too your boards adding edging strips to the corners and bases
Yes that’s what I have said in my earlier comments. IMO WBP marine plywood would be my choice if you were going to use timber . However I would not use plywood but the specific light weight totally waterproof panels that are very thin and easy to join with the proprietary channels. Then either a fibreglass shower tray if you can find one that fits or fabricate one in situ. This ensures shower water runs into the tray and down the sink
It's looking great!! Great lessons on spraying... I was taught using water in the sprayer. It was a great way to learn how it worked... I really enjoy watching you build an work out the interior an everything else!! Your an amazingly brilliant human!! Thanks for sharing your life with us grateful for the opportunity to learn from you ✌🏼💗😊❣️
I'm looking Your channel from the very start, and it became among my favorite channels of boat refurnish/rebuilding. Also, I'm following about 10 channels of the same type (English, French, Russian people who make some jobs on even abandoned sea boats and yachts). Thank You for Your style of narrating and for Your excellent English. If OK, what are my advices/proposals to You from St Petersburg, Russia: 1)You do most of the job alone. Your friends, wife and relatives are appearing very rare. Most of us would appreciate team work and team weekends at Your channel. 2) You buy boats and pontons, do some upgrades and get rid of them. If it's OK to You, travelling after job on this boats make Your channel more empathetic. So, if You travel even by rivers and channels of Europe before selling each boat rebuild, it'll be a great content on Your channel. The series with ponton from Poland were quite nice! 3) Discussing some colours and style of interior and exterior of Your boat with those, who want to donate You, is a piece of advice. 4) Weekends with family and friends (or even with followers) on water near Berlin would be a great reward for the job done. And a good content too. In future You can think about "road tour" by river with friends and followers. 5) Style, design and choice of materials are up to You. As for me, in first steps You was more accurate in measures and more modern in choosing materials. So, Your boat was like renovating and updating. Now, You make a great effort, but the resulting design and technology are like in 1973-1993. It's not a mistake, but not an investment. Hope, You understand what I mean. Waiting for new series with a big steel ponton. St Petersburg, Russia
And it's nice that You show all materials and instruments You use. Also, nice that You are kin in using it and not afraid to show mistakes or faults. Your channel also can be a great value in materials and instruments advertising and promotion for shipyards and sole shipmen.
Great video. I've been watching you from your beginning videos and I know your looking forward to taking the first shower on the boat. Keep up the great videos Ber Lin.
I would have put the rubber washer against the wall of the outside of the boat the wood might sweat enough to cause it to rot with the rubber washer against there you'd be better off we'd better off then put in a wood and then put in a nut
Nice job man. I like your approach keep it simple. Great going through all the trials and tribulations shame the second tent decided to leave home so early. Also nice vent idea again simple and requires no electrics and as steam rises be quite effective even more so if there's a breeze. Be well. Carry on.
I reeeeally hope you wont forget that wood is not good with pooling water, and put in water proofing, and also put in rubber mats on the floor, in a plumber so i know
Yes that what I was expecting him to do but it looks as if the plywood is the actual finish. I certainly wouldn’t want to reply on non - marine plywood butt jointed with just a bead of sealants. No I would go for traditional type fibreglass tray with waterproof panelled walls . They are very thin , incredibly lightweight, easy to cut, join etc. If you ensure the shower wall bottom end inside the tray this will prevent leaking.
IMO yes he ought to have done that . I suspect he just had an idea , did not research the pros and cons of using birch ply, quadrant beading etc. if he had checked out alternatives he would of found far more reliable and better solutions to the shower build
i suppose you will install trim covering all the gaps in the corners and a molding under the door to guide water towards the drain (which really should be a little below the top of the floorboard)
Really like watching your videos it’s really hard designing and to function properly but you do a great job. Been around boats all my life here Chesapeake bay Maryland and love all the wood boat staining especially mahogany and teak wood. I like teak wood because it last along time and takes forever to rot. Enough of rambling your doing a fantastic job but I would make the stain a little more darker
There are two other adjustments on a gravity fed spray gun that you didn't mention. The first is the fluid tip size, this needs to be selected according to the viscosity of the material you are trying to spray. If you have too small a tip you will struggle to get enough material through the gun, too big and you won't correctly atomise the fluid leading to an "orange peel" finish. The final adjustment is the aircap. This controls the size and shape of the fan. I did not recognise the gun that you were using, but today most guns are HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure). They do not require very high pressures, but they consume an awful lot of air volume (the two measurements are not linked). It is important to ensure that your airline and any fittings on it do not restrict the volume of air (15mm i/d rather than 12mm i/d). It looked to me as though you were not overlapping your coats when you were spraying. I would recommend a one third overlap, starting with the first pass along the top edge of your board, you should aim to allow approximately one third of your pass to go above the top edge. When you come to the edge of the board continue for about 10cm to ensure that you have covered the edge. When you start your next pass overlap the previous pass by one third (i.e. if you have a 30cm fan, the top pass should be 20cm on the board and 10cm over the board, your next pass should be 10cm below the top edge of the board). One other important factor when spray painting is to ensure that the gun is always held perpendicular to the surface you are painting so that the material always has the same distance to travel from the fluid to to the object. To start with this will all seem very mechanical, but it will become more fluid with time. I have talked about painting a 2D surface, when painting 3D shapes you need to adjust your technique. If you have areas that are really difficult to get into with a spray gun, try brushing these difficult areas first and then spraying the rest. Good Luck!
Hi. You should maintain a minimal distance between electrical system and water system. Your pipes and electrical sockets are less than 5cm apart. If I am not mistaken in Germany you have to have 40cm minimum! Regards Silvano
Yes, but electricity does not care if it is building or boat. ;) So, I would not put them there. It is easy to do pipes at 45° from the tap to bottom and put same extra "box" to cover them.
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liking the longer video, thanks
These 20 Minutes videos are amazing. often I find myself thinking do you never finish a job. But I always wait patiently for the next one.
20 Minutes of my life pass by so quickly. Wonderful job your doing on this restoration.
Your German sense of humour cracks me up! Fantastic project, really nice work. I wish you the best of luck, can't wait for the next episode!
I'm always astounded to how meticulous to detail you are. As always, great job!
Hes german
The bubbles in the paint is basically like fish eyes in car paint it happens from humidity when it rains.
Like everyone else I think you should rethink the position of the outlets, but great work this boat gonna be a nice place to live and camp good work
Looks very good!
Only a tip! You've placed the rubber gasket at the wrong spot. It should be between the metal and the wood not on the wood.
So, Outside Exhaust > Gasket > Boat > Gasket > Wooden spacer > Nut
Good job 👍🏻
You should have opened the Facebook group earlier 🙂. I've got a fair bit of professional experience in spray painting and I cringed a few times during this video. I knew most of the issues you were running into before I saw them in the video. But you seemed to have resolved the issues in the end and the result looks nice. I do admire your perseverance 🙂
Personally I don't think I would have sprayed it. You can have great results with rollers to, especially when you take the time sanding between layers, as you did with spraying. Spraying is pretty expensive in the end, you need a lot of gear and you use a lot more varnish.
I've watch you from the start...you what people would be jealous..hehehe dedication and perseverance and voila....a perfect job...you should pat yourself in the back...hehehe I wished it's summer in Australia hehehe 😜
Personally i would put ptfe tape on the plumbing connections to help prevent leaks
When you drill a hole through the metal profiles to bolt something on it is best to prime and paint the exposed metal in the hole to avoid rust to start.
Bravo. That shower video will get lots of views.
Really good to see your boat coming along well. When varnishing, i was always told, and always do, use a 50/50 "thinned" first couple of coats, so the bare wood absorbs it really well, then load up with neat varnish. End grain always needs 2 or 3x the amount, as end grain is super absorbant, like a sponge. Your boat is looking good.
Yes as a professional woodworker the idea of a thinned first coat is the best way to proceed but I suggest a 10% diluted mix. Then build up full costs with a gentle denibbing between coats
Wish I had your talent for building things- you make difficult things look easy.
Love your videos and the soothing tone of voice you have. It’s calming entertainment for me!
If you don't mind me saying I think it may have been better to fully tank the inside of a shower. Thus fully waterproofing it with the confidence and knowledge to know that all the water stays inside the shower. Probably would have been quicker than vanishing. Or there are so many different shapes and sizes of shower cubicles these days including a half D shape that may have been better. You did do a good job and overcome any problems can't wait to see it fully finished. .
Yes I agree with the total tanking as this technique will more or less guarantee no leaking at all. You need to minimise, nay, avoid all seams , joints etc . Whilst the birch ply fitting was done excellently I doubt the quadrant beading will prevent water seeping through. I shall be converting a tiny WC cabin on a Dutch Cruiser into a shower room. After stripping it right back I shall fabricate shower tray in situ using fibreglass . Walls will be the thin light composite board specifically designed and made for shower fitting in caravan, camper vans and boats. You can also buy the special corner beading therefore ensuring a water tight job
It would be beneficial to put some kind of lock on the sliding door, so while traveling it is not moving in and out. Great videos!
He said it's not finished yet. I'm sure the lock will be fitted along with the door-handle.
I loved your process and your discovering new skills was fun to watch. As a building contractor I would have chosen different materials for the shower interior. Pic panels can be worked much like the plywood you used. Or seal your interior with fiberglass over the plywood. They built boats that way for years so your shower should be fine. Plus it will be much easier to clean once you start using it. Good luck, keep on learning and experimenting.
That should be PVC panels. I hate it when the word processor thinks it's smarter than you are.😉
Hey man, I really enjoy ur vids. It’s rare talent u have for not only rehabbing ur vessels but also editing and producing high quality informational videos. Thanks for sharing this with us and hope to many more years of watching u work. It’s inspiring
I recently thought that it took a long time for a new upload from you……now I understand why…..great job again…!
man!!! you've got WAY more patience than I do!!!!! good work, looks great.
Asa mostly self taught DIY guy I appreciate the effort you put in to do all that you can yourself. Failure or less then stellar results can often teach more than anything else if you can see where it went wrong. Been watching for a while now and am still watching so keep having fun!
Nice work and progress!
Though the problem with plywood made of birch is that it swell when in contact with water/humidity.
Because of that I chose to use Okoume plywood,, check it out upon your next visit to the lumber yard - maybe they have it available.
Yes the best plywood and most expensive would be WBP Marine Plywood that is specifically designed for this purpose. It will not delaminate if wet and the adhesive used to make this plywood is resistant to virtually anything
You are a nice person. Good work and thank you for your content
Watch some cabinetry videos. Ive been a cabinet maker for decades and you would do very well with just a little tutelage on the matter. You have many talents and your vids are great to watch. Ciao.
From Canada
La douche est formidable.
I really like your videos and appreciate you sharing them!
Huge fan of your channel my friend. Thanks for documenting your journey.
👋
I really appreciate seeing the problem solving aspects of your build: no editing to make you look like an expert. 👍
Beautiful. Cheers again from the NSW Outback!
you should consider puting a wery strong magnet or something to keep the shower door closed while under a move
Angel of the morning- Juice Newton. Nice
Ich verfolge deine Videos seit Anfang an- warum nicht in deutsch - englisch ist auch okay habe schon einiges gelernt- danke
You do really solid, quality work…well done…stay safe…
Another way you can do that is gives you a separate tank just a regular tank not a whole compressor impressor put your pressure valve in a water separator is water separator on that tank run your compressor into that tank and your air to your spray gun out of that tank and then spray because you will get more efficiency out of that 2nd tank then you will out of the air compressor and the air compressor still will run at the proper level
Well done👍
I really liked the usage of the paper hat ;)
Nice you told, it took you almost forever to put together all the parts of your shower cabin! It just looks so easy and like done by itself in your videos, but indeed it is a work that takes a high amount of hours, also by works you have to repeat and repeat again, until they match your vision. But well done! I admire your patience and the absolute precisement you're working with! They're the details which do count! 👍🏼
Great job adapting to overcome issues!
Should have used High Density polyethylene plywood it would never rot & water exposure will not hurt it
Re Facebook question. As long as the engine (inboard or outboard) is installed on the centre line and tankage the same or either side of you should be fine, being a barge you are going to have add a quite a lot of ballast to get her to sit at the correct level in the water. You'll also be fitting her out adding weight, any list or leveling can be carried out in the water at rest by adding more ballast opposite the list. As for the water line, you'll know that when she goes in the water as you don't know the final displacement, perhaps a chat to a local marine surveyor may point you right direction or if they're still around the builders.
I've not fitted a bow thruster to a barge only a couple on grp yachts, the cuting, glassing in, fitting the thruster to the tube is simple but marking the cut out for the tube in the hull is easy to get wrong if you've not been shown, however, Installation may be completely different on the barge. There is a water jet bow/stern thruster system available which would mean cutting 3 much smaller holes in the hull (1 intake and 2 outlets) but may be worth looking at from a ease of install direction.
Apologies for responding on here, I have no fb account so can only read the post.
Is this boat a barge ?
Not from my viewing . He calls it a yacht and I would say it very similar to the Dutch Cruiser boats that are very popular on the canal’s in UK
Very nice finish on the wood panels.
That looks great! You should be proud of your excellent work! I always enjoy a new video from you, can't wait for you to start on your new big barge project!
Good job
Pretty easy to remember: the fan width should be about 1 hand span and the gun should be about 1 hand span away from the item to be painted.
Insects in paint are best left until the paint is dry then you can razor the legs and the result will be invisible ... unless they were strong enough to squirm after the paint stopped leveling itself, doubtful.
Absolute Klasse!!!!! Nicht nur deine Arbeit aber auch die Aufnahmen und Musik!
Great attention to detail , you nailed it !!
Very interesting videos for me as I may well be having to build something similar on my daughters 30 foot Dutch Cruiser. It’s an all steel boat with a small cabin that is the WC. Probably will convert to a wet room with the Thetford easily lifted out of the way when the shower is required. Will gut the cabin first in order to maximise the space. Am tempted to use the waterproof coated shower panels and depending on what is available, fibreglass shower tray or fabricate a bespoke tray in situ. Anyone with suggestions, advice, experience?
Congratulations, Very good job!
Good job, but water WILL find a way through every crack. I really hope you’re going to use Fibre-Glass- and resin to seal all of the joints.
Ah, the plot thickens.
@@Degenhardt450 yes we want to know!
How about interior panels held in place with magnets? This would allow for easy removal to inspect the inside of the hull.
Boat's looking good!
The through hull fittings will leak and sink you unless they are bedded from the exterior in a proper sealant
Thanks for sharing Great video
It's looking so good, I can't wait to see it finished. It will be worth all your hard work in the end.❤️😁👏
I'm just a little bit worried about moisture and wood in the bathroom area, might want to think about replacing some items in the future with plastic if the wood starts to warp.
Very enjoyable channel.
Nice work! i do wonder how the water will drain and if you have taken into consideration sealing the gaps and seams to avoid leaks into the main quarters and below. Typically in a shower enclosure the bottom is like a tub that directs all the water into the drain and away from the edges.
I was wondering that as well. Without a slope the water will pool.
In the 1st episode he already thought of that . He's made the floor to slope towards the drain. So there will be no issues also he isn't done an I'm completely sure he will seal all that needs it ... As he pays great attention to detail....
@@donnakawana After a couple episodes ;-) He is doin good tho and actualy fixes anything he did wrong wich is why he is one of my favorite creators on here
@@donnakawana I know he said that but personally I am doubtful as to how well his very minimal slope will work. I would go for a very pronounce angle to the drain connect the drain to the bottom of the board so as to create a slight sump over it and put a sill in the doorway.
Yes that’s what I was thinking as you did not appear to cut out any holes for the water pipes and waste. I assume you were going to seal every joint and over the beading ?
You can look around and find another tank. That way you can have more air for doing these paint jobs.
Nice work. I love it.
The doors both need a strip of either plastic or aluminium for the door wheels to run along as well as waterproof edge strip to stop egress of water. As you have it the wheel will wear the door eventually and water will seep out.
I'm not sure this process will work in the shower. You could have saved tons of work by buying shower sheeting.....these come in a variety of designs or plain colours. Simply cut to size and afix too your boards adding edging strips to the corners and bases
Yes that’s what I have said in my earlier comments. IMO WBP marine plywood would be my choice if you were going to use timber . However I would not use plywood but the specific light weight totally waterproof panels that are very thin and easy to join with the proprietary channels. Then either a fibreglass shower tray if you can find one that fits or fabricate one in situ. This ensures shower water runs into the tray and down the sink
Beautifully done
It's looking great!! Great lessons on spraying... I was taught using water in the sprayer. It was a great way to learn how it worked...
I really enjoy watching you build an work out the interior an everything else!! Your an amazingly brilliant human!!
Thanks for sharing your life with us grateful for the opportunity to learn from you ✌🏼💗😊❣️
I'm looking Your channel from the very start, and it became among my favorite channels of boat refurnish/rebuilding. Also, I'm following about 10 channels of the same type (English, French, Russian people who make some jobs on even abandoned sea boats and yachts). Thank You for Your style of narrating and for Your excellent English. If OK, what are my advices/proposals to You from St Petersburg, Russia:
1)You do most of the job alone. Your friends, wife and relatives are appearing very rare. Most of us would appreciate team work and team weekends at Your channel.
2) You buy boats and pontons, do some upgrades and get rid of them. If it's OK to You, travelling after job on this boats make Your channel more empathetic. So, if You travel even by rivers and channels of Europe before selling each boat rebuild, it'll be a great content on Your channel. The series with ponton from Poland were quite nice!
3) Discussing some colours and style of interior and exterior of Your boat with those, who want to donate You, is a piece of advice.
4) Weekends with family and friends (or even with followers) on water near Berlin would be a great reward for the job done. And a good content too. In future You can think about "road tour" by river with friends and followers.
5) Style, design and choice of materials are up to You. As for me, in first steps You was more accurate in measures and more modern in choosing materials. So, Your boat was like renovating and updating. Now, You make a great effort, but the resulting design and technology are like in 1973-1993. It's not a mistake, but not an investment. Hope, You understand what I mean.
Waiting for new series with a big steel ponton. St Petersburg, Russia
And it's nice that You show all materials and instruments You use. Also, nice that You are kin in using it and not afraid to show mistakes or faults. Your channel also can be a great value in materials and instruments advertising and promotion for shipyards and sole shipmen.
I guess, even the choice of instruments and materials in the shop can be a part of the video ;)
Good luck and nice travelling on Your boats.
awesome job!
Forward to your videos for your time and effort
Great job 🏁😎👍🏻
Great video. I've been watching you from your beginning videos and I know your looking forward to taking the first shower on the boat. Keep up the great videos Ber Lin.
Fabulous job !!
Having the water supply right next to the electrical outlets is a bad idea and adds a safety concern.
I would have put the rubber washer against the wall of the outside of the boat the wood might sweat enough to cause it to rot with the rubber washer against there you'd be better off we'd better off then put in a wood and then put in a nut
La douche est mangnifique
Looks great, well done.
I hope you’re going to put some kind of impermeable membrane in that shower area or that wood is going to rot away.
Nice job man. I like your approach keep it simple. Great going through all the trials and tribulations shame the second tent decided to leave home so early. Also nice vent idea again simple and requires no electrics and as steam rises be quite effective even more so if there's a breeze. Be well. Carry on.
thanks again mister.
Good work
Great job
These takes reminds me a lot of Vince Gilligan ! I Love de paint take!
Very nice job indeed
I reeeeally hope you wont forget that wood is not good with pooling water, and put in water proofing, and also put in rubber mats on the floor, in a plumber so i know
Great job, congratulations!
No wood spacers on thru hull fittings that’s sketchy and going to leak, should have made a plastic one with gaskets on both sides you should redo that
How will you combine the individual panels to make a shower tub? I thought you would fibreglass them together, but maybe not.
Yes that what I was expecting him to do but it looks as if the plywood is the actual finish. I certainly wouldn’t want to reply on non - marine plywood butt jointed with just a bead of sealants. No I would go for traditional type fibreglass tray with waterproof panelled walls . They are very thin , incredibly lightweight, easy to cut, join etc. If you ensure the shower wall bottom end inside the tray this will prevent leaking.
Anyone else enjoying the ABBA smooth jazz in the background? This is awesome ❤️
a little pointer....when spraying paint, overlap your previous run by 50%
70% overlap between each horizonal pass is standard
Wouldn't it be better to use fiberglass 4` by 8` 1/2` for your shower ?
Only appropriate solution
@@djmrausch but what about access if there is a fault with plumbing/wiring? that may be the reason?
IMO yes he ought to have done that . I suspect he just had an idea , did not research the pros and cons of using birch ply, quadrant beading etc. if he had checked out alternatives he would of found far more reliable and better solutions to the shower build
When you talked about painting the panels the surface looked like you might of sprayed it while their was too much humidity in the air.
i suppose you will install trim covering all the gaps in the corners and a molding under the door to guide water towards the drain (which really should be a little below the top of the floorboard)
*_ Totally agree with you, he should Countersink the drain so that water doesn't accumulate around it. _*
He did mention that in an earlier video 👍
I assume you will have some sort of a molded floor pan on top of the ply wood floor ?
Really like watching your videos it’s really hard designing and to function properly but you do a great job. Been around boats all my life here Chesapeake bay Maryland and love all the wood boat staining especially mahogany and teak wood. I like teak wood because it last along time and takes forever to rot. Enough of rambling your doing a fantastic job but I would make the stain a little more darker
looking good keep up the great work :))
There are two other adjustments on a gravity fed spray gun that you didn't mention. The first is the fluid tip size, this needs to be selected according to the viscosity of the material you are trying to spray. If you have too small a tip you will struggle to get enough material through the gun, too big and you won't correctly atomise the fluid leading to an "orange peel" finish. The final adjustment is the aircap. This controls the size and shape of the fan. I did not recognise the gun that you were using, but today most guns are HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure). They do not require very high pressures, but they consume an awful lot of air volume (the two measurements are not linked). It is important to ensure that your airline and any fittings on it do not restrict the volume of air (15mm i/d rather than 12mm i/d).
It looked to me as though you were not overlapping your coats when you were spraying. I would recommend a one third overlap, starting with the first pass along the top edge of your board, you should aim to allow approximately one third of your pass to go above the top edge. When you come to the edge of the board continue for about 10cm to ensure that you have covered the edge. When you start your next pass overlap the previous pass by one third (i.e. if you have a 30cm fan, the top pass should be 20cm on the board and 10cm over the board, your next pass should be 10cm below the top edge of the board). One other important factor when spray painting is to ensure that the gun is always held perpendicular to the surface you are painting so that the material always has the same distance to travel from the fluid to to the object. To start with this will all seem very mechanical, but it will become more fluid with time. I have talked about painting a 2D surface, when painting 3D shapes you need to adjust your technique. If you have areas that are really difficult to get into with a spray gun, try brushing these difficult areas first and then spraying the rest. Good Luck!
Hi. You should maintain a minimal distance between electrical system and water system. Your pipes and electrical sockets are less than 5cm apart. If I am not mistaken in Germany you have to have 40cm minimum! Regards Silvano
That may be a regulation that applies to buildings. Boats may have different regulations due to space restrictions.
Yes, but electricity does not care if it is building or boat. ;) So, I would not put them there. It is easy to do pipes at 45° from the tap to bottom and put same extra "box" to cover them.
@@new.handle All good suggestions.
Yeah..keep electrical wiring and water pipings n hoses at separate safe distance……..always safety first
Fantastic! Wrap around shower curtain?
High gloss varnish would have looked nice
hi did not use sikkafex on Skin Fitting why ?
Great job!