Diesel heater motherboard swap new controller to old.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 13 ноя 2021
- The controller on my new diesel heater is very limited in its functions, so I decided to swap it. The old type controllers are readily available on amazon, or ebay, but use a different protocol to the new motherboard, so had to swap that too. This means I can now use a range of the old controllers, and hopefully get my hands on the "Afterburner" controller, and install that. Apologies in advance, in the video, I couldn't remember the name of the controller, and called it the "commander".
The heaters themselves are all very basic, and only have the three connections to the motherboard. This video shows those connections.
Check out David McLuckie's channel for more info about the afterburner:
• The Afterburner - the ... 
Авто/Мото
Apparently, loads of people are doing this 'modification' to their new Chinese diesel heaters that come fitted with the later style black LCD controller, including me!
This video is a great help in doing the conversion. I have no idea why they changed to a worse type of LCD panel.
The Blue "00:00" was the newest controller and ECU in late 2021. This Black "P12v" one also has an identical counterpart in a blue case as well, and there was a rectangular Black, silver or gold, or a red controller that has the same "00:00" display and ECU as the one used in this video - which is really confusing people! It has been infered that the so-called "new" Black controller systems are actually cheaper old-stock components that ended up filling a post-COVID supply-gap. The backwards way they're programmed to start and shut down, as well as the more limited functions, adds some credibility to that theory!
I have a red controller that went out and it’s not working. The new one I bought is black like the one on the video am I gonna have to change the ECU as well?
@@user-ew6fw5um6q first, are you 100% that it's the controller? Is the 12V inline fuse good? Does the display on the controller light up but it doesn't run, or is it dark? The parts take a few weeks to get from China, but they are relatively cheap - unless you buy the complete blower or burner assemblies. I highly recommend anyone who owns these to buy at least one extra controller and matching ECU board as a back up. If you have the spares, it's super quick to just unplug the controller or the ECU and just plug the spare in to see if the issue is resolved. (I have an entire complete unit as a spare that I rebuilt a complete new blower motor into, as well the original motor with replacement ceramic bearings (as a spare motor), a replacement fan and compressor wheel, gasket sets, glow plugs, screens, temp sensor, matching extra controller/ECU, and a pump. I live in a 580sq ft tiny house and a 5/8Kw CDH is my primary heat.) You could go the technical diagnostic route but doing a part swap on these is just so super quick compared to checking line voltages and resistance values with a meter.
Which black one do you have - there are two shown in this video? The real issue is what the display looks like.
If you pause at 0:06 in the video, you will see two black ones - one is paired with a blue bare-back printed circuit board ECU (on the LEFT)... and the other with a green printed circuit board ECU with a plastic u channel in the shape of a large capital "H" covering the board (on the RIGHT).
I personally found the illuminated display to be the best indicator - rather than the color of the controller.
The controllers with "00:00" on the display will typically pair with the bareback blue pcb ECU, and the ones that have "P12v" or "H3" (or "H" with any other single digit 1-5) or has the red circle (-) with the line through it lit on the panel, it will pair with the green pcb ECU with the plastic "H' frame covering part of it. If you don't know what the display on your controller looks like, you can connect it momentarily to the triangular controller connector in the heater harness and it will light up the display long enough to see what type you have. Don't try to start the heater - just identify what the default display is when you connect the controller to the supply harness. If the illuminated display is the same format as your previous one, it would typically be ready-to-use with the same ECU board. If your red controller display on power up was "00:00" and your new black controller was showing "H3" or "P12v" or has that red circle with the line thru it, you will either need to get another controller that displays "00:00" when it is first powered or get the green ECU.
I strongly advise AGAINST ever swapping from a blue ECU board to a green ECU board. They have a terrible start-up and shutdown sequence. The same heater with the green ECU and matching "H3" display controller has too little preheat and too much prime. It floods the burner and always produced white smoke from a cold-start. The blue ECU system such as was retrofit in Phil's video does a much better job of preheating the chamber before engaging the pump. It also re-engages the glowplug and maintains a higher blower/compressor speed to properly burn off any remaining unused fuel at shut down. The result is a clean smokeless cold-start every time - from the exact same unit that smoked so heavily and for several minutes, that I ended up with a concerned neighbor getting fogged and calling to say they though my building had caught fire!
There are other ways to try to distinguish between controllers based on specific styles of buttons or fonts, but those are not always going to be 100% reliable.
Mostly it tends to be demand that drives changes, if the manufacturer comes up with a new one they will push that over the older model.
Thank you. Replacement motherboard was not printed with fan and temp sensor logo, so your explanation helped me.
so nice to seee the differences. At least I can sort out my new model controllers properly now.
Thanks for this. I just bought an afterburner, and realised that I have an incompatible board/controller (the new type you show). I ordered the correct board , and thanks to you, I know I now know how to replace it.
I plan to get one myself, and was unsure if it would be a simple swap. Given how cheap the motherboards are, it's a no brainer really. I'd like to hear how you get on with yours?
@@philcross7315 Yea sure, I'll keep you posted. My afterburner is currently awaiting a flight from Melbourne, so it will hopefully will be here next week, although Christmas may be a factor.
I always go back to watch this when my heater needs sorting out, thanks
Hi Phill it took a while for the motherboard to turn up but I installed the motherboard and controller in my van today with the help of your video worked great as with yours plug and play then spent a couple of warm and toasty hours sat at Portland Bill so thanks again for this. PS the old crappy board and control are now in about 10 fathoms of sea if anyone wants it. 🤣👍
😂😂👍
Big thanks! Purchased "a Vevor 5kW" which unfortunately had a similar old analog board. Thanks to your video I ordered the right board which is compatible with the Afterburner aftermarket HW/SW I'm planning to use with my heater.
Hi Ari do you have an image or link to the replacement board you are using? Thanks
Thank you for this upload!
I have the new type and lost the remote, baught a new remote and couldn't find a way to sync it because all the tutorials only explain how it's done on the old type. I then bought a new lcd screen with remote then found out it wasn't compatible. I'm now buying the correct motherboard. All this because of a lost remote! Ball ache but this video has helped me get to the bottom of it! Cheers 👍🏻
Hope it goes smoothly from now on? Good luck!
Thanks for your video! This should not only help folks who want to upgrade/change features, but eliminate the horrible start-up/shutdown programming in that BLACK controller's ECU!
I bought my first 5/8Kw red all-in-one with your blue control (that has the run-time "00:00" on the display by default) already factory-installed in October 2021. In December 2022, after a full winter of running mostly contiuously since 2021, the fan bearings failed (common issue). I ordered new ceramic bearings to repair the existing unit but figured I better get another identical all-in-one CDH - for the sake of time (and to have a complete "spare" drop-in unit if I had to do repair/maintenance in the future). I managed to get another one from Hcalory with the identical control in literally just 3 days!
Unfortunately, from the moment I installed and activated it, it didn't sound quite right. The blower motor in that one literally siezed up after only two weeks. I got a full refund and decided to get a Vevor, but it was already almost January and I no longer had my prefered choice of single 3" outlet 5/8Kw slim-case all-in-one WITH the blue controller. I had to settle for the BLACK one like you replaced with the "P12v" instead of the "00:00" on the display by default. (Meanwhile, I rebuilt and tested the original unit with new ceramic bearings in the motor - so I have two working units!)
What a POC! Who ever designed the ECU that those are connected to should be slapped senseless! The software program starts with too high of a fan speed, does a fuel prime before the glow plug is powered, and then starts pumping way before the fuel in the burner is properly lit - so it starts completetly flooded and blowing white smoke for several minutes! The shutdown routine is just as bad! It doesn't engage the glowplug and shut the fuel pump off immediately after turning it off to burn off the residual fuel! Instead, it drops the fan first. I ended up ordering the new ECU and familiar blue controller and have been smokeless and odor-free ever since!
BTW: *TIP* If you are ordering the BLUE controller and ECU, you might consider adding the thermister/sensor to your parts order for just a couple of bucks. As noted in the video, you will likely have to flip the connector on the sensor with the locking clip facing away from the raised lock on the ECU if you reuse the original from the BLACK ECU. I didn't like the way the connector block corner was right up against the main hardwired wiring in the middle of the ECU when flipped to get the two pins on so that the clip locks, or the other way where it clears but has no contact with the lock on the ECU. It might not come loose from vibration during operation, but being upside down under the ECU when installed, I prefer to be able clip it rather than rely on pin tension.
When you order, you will want the sensor with the YELLOW CONNECTOR. (The red one fits the BLACK controller's ECU)
I also find the 'new' controller revs up too fast, blowing the flame out.
So I have to start until it starts revving, then stop.
Then the 2nd start usually works.
For shutdown I have to go to lowest power 1, until it's cooled to about 130-140C, and then it's safe to shutdown.
It sucks.
What a brilliant tutorial, that's helped me so much. A massive thanks
I fitted my heater into my van about two weeks ago only to find it had the dumb three blade fan type controller and motherboard set up it worked fine but I hate it so I ordered a new motherboard and controller from ebay. Yesterday I drove to Portland Bill car park to install the new parts with the help of this video it took 15 mins and was plug and play I spent about two hours in a very toasty van testing it out and its great the remote that came with it works straight off the bat. The old set up is now set at minus 10 fathom and sleeps with the fish best place for it. 🌲🔥👍
Are you able to adjust the pump hz, fan speed and plug voltage with the new controller on your heater?
Thanks Phil, impactful video here!
Bloody Hell! Information is all over the map. I’m considering the new board and controller because of the altitude setting, and now nobody likes the new setup because of this or that reason. My use ranges from 2000 feet to 7000 feet, so I guess I’m stuck using the chart and pump and fan speed settings to get it to run in the mountains.
Helpful video. Referred to fuel pump as glowplug!
Hi Phil just a line to say thanks for posting this I had the same brain dead controller and hate it thanks to you I have now ordered a new motherboard and controller. Thanks again.
Cheers colette. Like you, this controller drove me nuts, and I'd guessed it wouldn't be a simple swap. 👍
I’m just having the same bought one and they haven’t sent the controller that’s on the photos, so thanks in advance i m going to crack on with this, any ideas where best to get the controller and mother from cheers
Excellent vid you helped me out massively thank you
Hi, so the 'older' motherboard can run othe LCD screens except for the 'blue' one? I'm looking at fitting the green lcd one, that has the capability of displaying the burner temp like the blue one does.
Merci pour cette vidéo 👍👌, qui m'a été fort utile.
Merci jean-francois 👍
Can you tell me where I can get the older MB and controller
good job
My current diesel heater controller on the wall is red and it quit working. I bought a new one and it’s black like the one on your video. Do I need to change the thing inside the heater too?
great vid , can you tell me does the Blue board with the LCD that shows Time in RED have Advanced settings with code 1688??
Hi robb, yes, that controller has the 1688 menu that you can tune the mixture settings.
Grazie mille mi hai dato una grossa mano ora o cambiato controller e rispetto a quello vecchio si risparmia anche carburante
I just got a new heater and it has a spanner symbol top left button.
I cant seem to regulate fan speed and fuel use like my old heater.
Nightmare 😢
Please, where to buy the new controller? eBay, Amazon , AliExpress have only old type 🤷
Thanks for this! I just bought one and couldn't figure out why online directions to prime the fuel lines didn't work. I touched 12v to the pump terminals like 600 times to prime it. Do you know what I need to push to enable priming on the new style controller in future?
Press the OK button, and the down button at the same time, then you can toggle the priming on/off using the up down buttons.
@@philcross7315 I'll have to try it again but that process didn't work on the controller on the unit I bought for some reason. It looks identical to the new version in your video with the blue numbers instead of red. Perhaps I need to hit down instead of up or something.
@@juliogonzo2718 try pressing the up and down buttons at the same time. That's how the new controller does it
@@philcross7315 I just tried that and it worked! Thanks!
I ordered a self contained 5kw unit from ebay before xmas 2022 and the motherboard and lcd screen I cannot find anywhere online, it has no control over Hz settings it just has 5 temperature settings and the strangest motherboard ive ever seen, so I have ordered the board youve just installed and a blue screen as I have a blue screen on my 2kw heater which allows much more control esspecially with the lcd remote control which gives you the casing temperature as well on the remote control. Thanks for the wiring bit it may well come in handy when my motherboard arrives. ive also had to order a new wiring loom as there are no plugs to speak of coming from the existing motherboard the connections are just stamped into a plastic wiring block so that it is impossible to plug in a new screen. edit 06th of Jan 2023 board has arrived and it is identical to yours, Im just hoping it will work with the blue lcd screen I have, still waiting for the new wiring loom to arrive now. Thank you.
Do you have operating instructions for the other controller? I found the same thing and changed mine out too.
Sorry Darryl, I don't. Hopefully, somebody can post a link though?
Yeah, i tried this, ip pops an e-06
I tried to adjust the mag sensor position, cand seem to make it work
The new controller wouldnt adjust for the altitude 1500-2500m and coked up pretty quickly,
Hi phil great video , could you please send me the link for the old type control and motherboard the control i have now (3 blade fan in display) will not allow me into the advance settings . thanks
Do you have any issues i keep hearing problems smoke and errors with the older units with 6 fans on the display and pin code management type ?
No issues for me.
Hi Phil and thanks. I am trying to look for a 2Kw heater with the better/older type controller. There are several on Ebay that look correct with the larger OK and Power symbol, but some of these say they have up to 6 steps (only) for the pump in Hz. Exactly how many steps does your better/older one have please? The newer/worse one I currently have also has 6 steps, shown as H-1 to H-6. (I can't just upgrade that heater, as it is going back). I have another heater with the better blue controller, and that steps from P-1.1 up to P- 3.5 or higher, in multiple steps, much more than 6. Does the black older/better one show same as this blue one?
Hi John, as far as I'm aware, it does? That said, there seems to be a lot of new ones about.
Check this site, there is a lot of very up to date info
afterburner.mrjones.id.au/
brill vid can i ask when you got the motherboard how did you know witch one to get or are thay all the same
Thanks Joe
At the time, there were only two types available, so I just ordered the old style one. Apparently now there are a few different ones. The compatibility checker on ray jones site has recently been updated, and I believe there are quite a few now?
Hi, I have the controller that you call new, but I have 6 buttons and cannot find any information as to what the extra button does. It has an icon of a fuel filler nozzle dripping liquid and it is lit? any ideas?
I've never seen that one before?
Hopefully somebody will have, and can answer your question?
@@philcross7315 Thanks
I purchased a 5kw unit recently and it ran for about 2 minutes then stopped signifying an E4, pump failure code. I bought a new pump and connected it but it too showed E4, I tested everything on another heater I have that works and the pumps worked. Now, I am thinking it is a module fault so I will buy another, if they are not the problem at least I have spares as they are comparably cheap. Before I go out and buy another I will check it out to ensure connectivity across the entire system.
The other one I bought is the Hcalory with the 100mm ducting which eventually will be used as the heating for my flat.
Most of these plugs cannot be inserted the wrong way round as they have nodules to stop it. In my Hcalory unit I have a mains to 12v power supply connected to the heater with two plugs that look totally different but will only plug together one way.
I just got an old style digital black controller to replace my rotary controller. I get an E07 error code, I’ve checked the blue wire continuity and it’s good. Is this likely to be a motherboard compatibility issue or a dodgy new controller ?
Same problem. I've just bought a new motherboard. Don't even know if it's the right one it looks a bit bigger. Did you find a solution?
@@gardendesign5186 ordered the old style blue motherboard and working fine now!
Omg. I have that new controller. How do I set the time?!?!
Where did you buy Pvc tee to connect the hose?
Errrmmm, not sure I understand?
@@philcross7315 he’s referring to the heater hose junction tee piece on the outlet
Ho do the polarity are the same for the fan and the glow plug?
I don't know. I simply swapped one panel for the other. If the glow plug connection is wrong, it doesn't matter. If the fan connection is wrong, the fan will spin the wrong way. If that happens simply swap it the other way.
@@philcross7315 thanks for your help!!
Did you end up having to re-tune the fuel delivery on yours?
Nope, connected the afterburner, and it auto transferred my settings. Works well.
@@philcross7315awesome. Just ordered the “new” (old) motherboard for mine and will get an afterburner soon after.
Tried this today, no luck. I turn it on and the fan goes wide open then error 06.
my controller seems to be the exact same model as this one (it looks identical), but for some reason it only lets me set 2 timers. After i set the first time of timer 1, it goes straight to timer 2, instead of allowing me to select an end time.
I've played around with it as I don't understand how it's working the time out. If i set it for @ it doesn't come on. But if i set the start time as @, it will come on 5 minutes later, but then if i work out the amount of time until 7am, and input that, it still doesn't come on.
And then to confuse things more, it comes on randomly sometimes in the middle of the day when i'm not there!!
Does anyone know what is going in? I've reached out to the company that sold me it, but they just sent me the manual and didn't understand what i meant
One of the controllers allows you to set the time on/off, the other is supposed to set as the amount of time until it comes on, then off on the second setting.
I agree with you, the instructions that come with them are rubbish.
I'll have a fiddle with the two different types I've got, and perhaps make a video about which settings to use.
Hi i have a newer version of this heater like phill but with a green back with out the black plastic and printed on it is 5DAW20VA04 i tried changing over to phils blue board and controller but it didn’t work for me ,but i did manage to get it working by changing the burner cable wires out of the white plug they where on opposite poles to the unit of Phil’s on the video if you have the same board as i did thats what you have to do to get this blue baby up and running 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
It's so hit and miss with these boards, so many variations. Glad you got yours working. 👍
I put my Chinese heater on at 6am, jumped back in bed and after a minute or so it shut off, while still on the initial fire up fast pump... there's now no display, the fuse is fine. Any ideas?
The online fuse might be OK, but is it fed from another circuit that has a fuse on it?
Sounds to me like it's ramped up the current during the initial fire up, and popped a fuse somewhere else? They pull in excess of 10 amps when starting. Sorry if youve already worked this out for yourself, but for me, it's the only possibility other than a board/wiring failure?
@@philcross7315
Thanks very much for the reply and tip.
I'm out and about. And plan on having a full inspection when parked up again.
I think all other fuses are good.
I have VSR , two leisure batteries, inverter and heater. Everything else is fine.
I was wondering about the motherboard in the heater.
I am about to get a 12v dash heater for the mornings incase I need a new board.
Will let you know.
Thanks again 🐕👊
@@philcross7315
So, I used the multi meter ....
No power was getting to the back of the heater, where the wires connect. I had a switch just after the fuse, near the battery. I rammed my probe in the battery side, all OK.. rammed it in the outward side and nothing.
Needles to say, the switch is now in the bin! 🤣
The heater has power 🔋 👍
What was wrong with the old motherboard/ LCD controller?
From a basic functionality, nothing. But, if you want to tune your heater better, or fit an "afterburner" controller, the motherboard doesn't work with it.
@@philcross7315 thanks for the info.
I just received the same controller. I am replacing the crappy 3-button controller that was next to useless.
Thx for the great video
Are you really sure that you can set the real time that you explain in the video 13:00...?
I believe its delayed time like in the old one.
You're right. I'd seen another RUclips video that suggested that it could be set as an actual time, and not a delay. Perhaps with some motherboards this is the case?
Changing the board to the older version, does however allow me to use an "afterburner".
@@philcross7315 I suspected that. If you can find the genuine afterburner online (not english copy), feel free to tell me where. Thanks!
Actually the "new" controller is a VERY old one . just reused.
I think the pictures at the end of the vid, old and new are backwards. The black frp board goes with the controller that has the 6 moving fan blades.
actually the old motherboard is the better motherboard
Why is that?
Quelqu'un peut t il traduire en français ? Merci
Stop tatting when you finish a word, it drives me mad
What's tatting please ?
@@BillSikes. think he means tutting.😂
@@oojimmyflip
Oh thanks 👍
Interesting vid, thanks. The pdf of the Afterburner you mentioned (not Commander) says it will work with your old board... afterburner.mrjones.id.au/assets/files/UserManual-V3.2.pdf