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Put a 5.6k, back to life !! Thank you

I'm sick of replacing these i think I'm on my 3rd one in 4 years.thanks for the info mate excellent work thanks

I thought the whole point of this app was to run in the background and send alerts but i can't get it to work.

Doing this tomorrow. Thanks

did the TMPS Apps error when you use Apple Carplay or Android Auto? thank you

do y help me. my ford tranzit not starting. relay r1 doing tik tik.

As it turns out, all mine needed is checking the caliper slider pins, cleaning and lubricating them. Once I did that the brake creep went away and my brake pedal is hard now and does not go to the floor.

I read in a forum that the calipers of the P2s have to bleed ports. But they didn't elaborate. So far i only see one bleed port.

I have the same issue. Brake creep. Shouldni bother teating the MC or just go directly to replacing the ABS module?

Very good video. One thing you didn't cover is the bleeding of the lines between the various steps. I'm assuming you did them but just didn't show it?

Nice video, thank you 👍

there is a parameter for clutch %

Hello Phil. We have a 2021 MINI Cooper convertible with only 3000 miles on it. The oil change light has come on because it is nearly 3 years old but we don't want to change the oil yet. I went through your routine and it initially said "reset successful", but then it reverted back to "unsuccessful". I can only assume it somehow knows we haven't actually changed the oil! We have decided to get an oil change done anyway now.

Great video Phil, good old fashioned repairs, ill be giving this a go on my car after watching this.

What tpms sensors are you using?

Worth noting that air gets trapped in the ABS unit that no amount of pressure bleeding will remove. I had to trigger the ABS pump via volvo VIDA/DICE whilst bleeding and this really improved things. The brakes must also be bled with the engine on to ensure the ABS valves are open anyway, i believe they close with the engine off, trapping all fluid in there

It works

I just want to say a massive thank you. I was quoted £364 at my local garage to "try" and fix it after their diagnostics showed up that it was the clutch position sensor. I had a lot of trouble trying to locate it, but for those in the UK (right had drive) who are trying to fix their own, the sensor is located on the accelerator side of the foot-well. It's quite high up, but looks exactly like it does in the video, with the same green port plugged into it

Hi bud, I did this today and as soon as I turned the key relay and cable smoked and van struggled to turn over, any ideas please?

I have problem that in my mk3 leon central locking works, i can open and close the boot lid but all the time maxi dot flashing that boot lid is open, can it be same part?

Sorry to bother you mate, my van was running fine today then just cut out , i came across your video And checked my relay that was burnt out , so I’m going to order a new one any way, but you said it should still start with out yes ?, or have I read the comments wrong, as mines not starting with it plugged in or taken out, what else could it be mate ?, thank you in advance

Sorry to bother you mate, my van was running fine today then just cut out , i came across your video And checked my relay that was burnt out , so I’m going to order a new one any way, but you said it should still start with out yes ?, or have I read the comments wrong, as mines not starting with it plugged in or taken out, what else could it be mate ?, thank you in advance

Sorry to bother you mate, my van was running fine today then just cut out , i came across your video And checked my relay that was burnt out , so I’m going to order a new one any way, but you said it should still start with out yes ?, or have I read the comments wrong, as mines not starting with it plugged in or taken out, what else could it be mate ?, thank you in advance

can you cut down a double passenger seat to make it single ish enough to make a walkway.. Ford Transit MK 7 20011.. struggling to get a single seat... cheers

Bonjour j'ai un ford transit de 2002 le 2.0 tddi je l'ai depuis 2 ans ( je precise la pompe a gasoil vp44 a ete changer par l'ancien propriétaire il fait par un garage 2500€ de facture) roulait nickel jusqu'à l'autre jour j'ai le voyant prechauffage qui clignote et l'autre a côté aussi le moteur a perdu la puissance et y la calé j'ai réussi a redémarrer j'ai fait 100 mètre et a refait la même chose et puis il refuse de démarré. Un ami a moi est venu avec son outil de diagnostic obd et il a trouvé 4 code défaut p0149 p1563 1664 p0335 puis les effacé et le véhicule a démarré le code p0149 est resté ne c'est pas effacé je l'ai amene chez moi a 1 km et aucun soucis. Le lendemain j'ai démarré nickel et j'ai fait 1km et le voyant prechauffage et l'autre a clignote encore, perte de puissance et arrêt moteur j'ai réussi a le redémarrer j'ai fait 5km ma refait encore j'ai redémarré j'ai fait 5 et encore cette puis apres eu du mal a redémarrer j'ai réussi a arriver à la maison je l'ai éteint j'ai redémarré cash aucun soucis. Le lendemain j'ai démarré et au bout de 20 secondes a cale seul j'étais a l'arrêt et il refuse de démarré maintenant meme au start pilot j'ai changé le filtre a gasoil et rien j'ai mis un nouveau et j'ai purger la vis du filtre et j'ai regardé le gasoil il y a comme des boules car tout ça met arrivé apres avoir fait le plein dans une station avant roulait tres bien voila si vous pouvez m'aider Merci d'avance

Thanks 😊

What was wrong with the old motherboard/ LCD controller?

Unless you are planning to sell the car tomorrow , this fix wont last. These switches are not designed for external use or anything that is likley to get wet. Its a poor design from Seat and water vey much does get into this door handle.

great vid , can you tell me does the Blue board with the LCD that shows Time in RED have Advanced settings with code 1688??

Great job. Thank you. I’ll get it sorted when it warms up a bit outside!

I always go back to watch this when my heater needs sorting out, thanks

Phil, the Legend! Thank you, this will save me at least 120eur :)

Hi, great videos. My sensor range is 400 to 1600 ohm I think i need to increase resistance, is it as simple as wiring in series instead of parallel?

Ho do the polarity are the same for the fan and the glow plug?

I purchased a 5kw unit recently and it ran for about 2 minutes then stopped signifying an E4, pump failure code. I bought a new pump and connected it but it too showed E4, I tested everything on another heater I have that works and the pumps worked. Now, I am thinking it is a module fault so I will buy another, if they are not the problem at least I have spares as they are comparably cheap. Before I go out and buy another I will check it out to ensure connectivity across the entire system. The other one I bought is the Hcalory with the 100mm ducting which eventually will be used as the heating for my flat. Most of these plugs cannot be inserted the wrong way round as they have nodules to stop it. In my Hcalory unit I have a mains to 12v power supply connected to the heater with two plugs that look totally different but will only plug together one way.

Super! This is the solution that, I am looking to fix my car as well. Can you please explain why the lowest speed and timing is not work?

Not the master but maybe the vacuum servo?

Hi Phil and thanks. I am trying to look for a 2Kw heater with the better/older type controller. There are several on Ebay that look correct with the larger OK and Power symbol, but some of these say they have up to 6 steps (only) for the pump in Hz. Exactly how many steps does your better/older one have please? The newer/worse one I currently have also has 6 steps, shown as H-1 to H-6. (I can't just upgrade that heater, as it is going back). I have another heater with the better blue controller, and that steps from P-1.1 up to P- 3.5 or higher, in multiple steps, much more than 6. Does the black older/better one show same as this blue one?

Excellent vid you helped me out massively thank you

My current diesel heater controller on the wall is red and it quit working. I bought a new one and it’s black like the one on your video. Do I need to change the thing inside the heater too?

Thanks for your video! This should not only help folks who want to upgrade/change features, but eliminate the horrible start-up/shutdown programming in that BLACK controller's ECU! I bought my first 5/8Kw red all-in-one with your blue control (that has the run-time "00:00" on the display by default) already factory-installed in October 2021. In December 2022, after a full winter of running mostly contiuously since 2021, the fan bearings failed (common issue). I ordered new ceramic bearings to repair the existing unit but figured I better get another identical all-in-one CDH - for the sake of time (and to have a complete "spare" drop-in unit if I had to do repair/maintenance in the future). I managed to get another one from Hcalory with the identical control in literally just 3 days! Unfortunately, from the moment I installed and activated it, it didn't sound quite right. The blower motor in that one literally siezed up after only two weeks. I got a full refund and decided to get a Vevor, but it was already almost January and I no longer had my prefered choice of single 3" outlet 5/8Kw slim-case all-in-one WITH the blue controller. I had to settle for the BLACK one like you replaced with the "P12v" instead of the "00:00" on the display by default. (Meanwhile, I rebuilt and tested the original unit with new ceramic bearings in the motor - so I have two working units!) What a POC! Who ever designed the ECU that those are connected to should be slapped senseless! The software program starts with too high of a fan speed, does a fuel prime before the glow plug is powered, and then starts pumping way before the fuel in the burner is properly lit - so it starts completetly flooded and blowing white smoke for several minutes! The shutdown routine is just as bad! It doesn't engage the glowplug and shut the fuel pump off immediately after turning it off to burn off the residual fuel! Instead, it drops the fan first. I ended up ordering the new ECU and familiar blue controller and have been smokeless and odor-free ever since! BTW: *TIP* If you are ordering the BLUE controller and ECU, you might consider adding the thermister/sensor to your parts order for just a couple of bucks. As noted in the video, you will likely have to flip the connector on the sensor with the locking clip facing away from the raised lock on the ECU if you reuse the original from the BLACK ECU. I didn't like the way the connector block corner was right up against the main hardwired wiring in the middle of the ECU when flipped to get the two pins on so that the clip locks, or the other way where it clears but has no contact with the lock on the ECU. It might not come loose from vibration during operation, but being upside down under the ECU when installed, I prefer to be able clip it rather than rely on pin tension. When you order, you will want the sensor with the YELLOW CONNECTOR. (The red one fits the BLACK controller's ECU)

Hey! Great video! I used a 50k pot and dialed it down to 2.8 kohm and it worked. I also put a small ziplock bag over the sensor to keep it a bit cleaner in the future. Thanks a lot,. You saved me some time and money.

I just got a new heater and it has a spanner symbol top left button. I cant seem to regulate fan speed and fuel use like my old heater. Nightmare 😢

brill vid can i ask when you got the motherboard how did you know witch one to get or are thay all the same Thanks Joe

Hi i have a newer version of this heater like phill but with a green back with out the black plastic and printed on it is 5DAW20VA04 i tried changing over to phils blue board and controller but it didn’t work for me ,but i did manage to get it working by changing the burner cable wires out of the white plug they where on opposite poles to the unit of Phil’s on the video if you have the same board as i did thats what you have to do to get this blue baby up and running 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

Does the number you show on the black motor refer only to the abs motor itself and not the block or module?

Did you end up having to re-tune the fuel delivery on yours?

Thank you. Replacement motherboard was not printed with fan and temp sensor logo, so your explanation helped me.

Thanks you, your solution worked. I bought two sensors, one oem (lasted for a year), and one after market which failed after 2 months. Hope your solution is permanent. Thank you once more.

God bless you, volvo s60 2001 here and it fixed my cruise control.