Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement (Part 1)
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
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* I SUGGEST YOU READ THIS VIDEO DESCRIPTION AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED*
In this video, we show you how to remove your lower control arms, remove and replace the bushings and get everything back together with basic tools. If you have metric sockets, ratchets and extensions, torque wrench, pry bar, bench vice, bottle jack, and butane torch, you can do this repair. The repair does require some specialty tools like pullers and a ball joint sleeve, but you can rent those for free at most auto parts stores. This repair is done on a 3rd Generation Toyota 4runner but the steps and technique we use can translate to other trucks and passenger vehicles as well.
**Here's a link to our Steering Rack Bushing Replacement Video if you wanted to also replace these bushings at the same time:
• Steering Rack and Fron...
**If you found one or more of your cam adjusters rusted in place in the bushing sleeve, you'll have to cut them out. Here's a link to Part 2 of this job which shows you how to cut them out with a reciprocating saw and also shows how to do the bushing removal and installation with a hydraulic press. • Front Lower Control Ar...
**Here’s some Torque Specs:
For Steering Rack:
Driver side long bolt that goes through cross member - 141 ft-lbf
Middle Perpendicular Bolt - 123 ft-lbf
Passenger Side Bracket Bolt and Nut - 123 ft-lbf
For Removal and Replacement of LCA:
Cam Adjuster Bolts - 96 ft-lbf
Lower Shock Bolt - 101 ft-lbf
Outer Tie Rod Castle Nut - 67 ft-lbf
Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut - 105 ft-lbf
Wheel Lug Nuts - 85 ft-lbf
*PARTS*
*Whiteline Polyurethane Bushings - Part #W53377A
amzn.to/37FKRvO
*Cam Adjustment Bolt Parts (Not necessary to replace unless you had to cut out one or more of your cam adjusters #48409-35050. You can clean up your old ones but if you wanted to buy some new ones, here’s the part numbers):
(QTY 4) #48452-35020 - Plate, Toe Adjust
amzn.to/35yB6h4
(QTY 4) #90080-11283 - Bolt w/ Washer
amzn.to/2L0d5HQ
(QTY 4) #48409-35050 - Cam Sub-Assy, Toe
amzn.to/2pUdBzS
*Helpful Tools*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*6 Ton Jack Stands
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*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock (This is just one. I recommend buying two) amzn.to/3lNC3MG
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun - Nice for removing wheel lug nuts and other fasteners
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*1/2" Drive Regular Impact Extension Set
amzn.to/2J7FYko
*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set
amzn.to/3wdRVhq
*Knipex Diagonal Cutters - to remove and bend cotter pins
amzn.to/300BRRE
*Brake Cleaner - to clean up cam adjusters before making match-marks
amzn.to/2KuJ6Yw
*Red Paint Pen - to make match-marks
amzn.to/34ngQid
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet
amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
amzn.to/35dKQwW
*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set
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*OTC Long Prybar Set - this set and the set below will give you all the prybar sizes you'll ever need.
amzn.to/2O7pWKZ
*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set
amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*Butane Torch
amzn.to/2L0IeuR
*Mapp Gas
amzn.to/34nVnG8
*12 Ton Bottle Jack
amzn.to/2rziH4U
*Large Channel Locks - to help drive in new bushings
amzn.to/2XGrPRi
*Anti-Sieze
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*OTC 7249 Balljoint Press Kit - sleeves we used came from this kit
amzn.to/2P7gK9E
*Tekton 22mm Combination Wrench - to tighten cam adjuster bolt near steering rack. No room for a socket. amzn.to/2OSwxaP
*CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench
amzn.to/2UPhyjK
*CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*Yost Bench Vice
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*OTC 6295 Front End Service Kit (Super helpful set of pullers that I've used on many many jobs)
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*Diablo Demon Carbide Tipped Blades (They cut very well if you're forced to cut out one or more of the cam adjusters).
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
**PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND UPDATES ON THIS REPAIR**
** Somebody on the Toyota forum asked a great question. He wanted to know how much the vice needed to open up to press the bushings in. So, I took some measurements and here they are:
Control Arm Sleeve that the bushing presses into - 1.75"
Balljoint Receiving Cup - 2.5"
Big Channel Locks - .5"
Total Length - 4.75"
So, I'd recommend using a vice that can at least open 5 inches. Now, if you use a longer balljoint receiving cup or a thicker pair of channel locks, you'd have to have an opening longer than 5 inches. But, if you had a shorter balljoint cup, you could get away with less of an opening.
** In retrospect, I think it would have been better to use the balljoint sleeve to do the pressing against the bushing sleeve for a more even application of pressure and have the channel locks on the backside to provide the gap needed for the bushing to press all the way in. The channel lock jaws would have to be at least .5" thick because the bushing pushes out that far to the inside of the control arm.
** 12/31/16 - I helped do this repair for someone else and found we did not have to remove the steering rack boot to get the driver side cam adjuster and bolt out. You can pull the rack back far enough to get the bolt and cam adjuster out no problem as long as you disconnect the power steering line bracket on the inside of the driver side frame rail. Disconnecting that bracket will allow you enough play in the lines to pull the rack backwards far enough so you can sneak the rear cam bolt and adjuster out.
** With this repair on 12/31/16, we did run into the problem of having both cam adjusters on the passenger side locked into the bushing sleeve due to corrosion (rust). We pounded and pounded and could not get them to budge. So, the only choice we had was to cut them out. We had to cut the cam adjuster on each side of the bushing to get the control arm out of the frame member. It's best to use a reciprocating saw with a good metal blade to make the cuts. I used a small Milwaukee M12 cordless saw to do the cuts. It's not a super powerful saw, but it got the job done. So, knowing the fact that these cam adjusters can commonly be rusted and impossible to remove without cutting, you might want to order a couple cam adjusters and have them on hand to you don't get stuck in the middle of the repair.
**04/03/18 - We now have a Part 2 for this job that shows how to use a press to get the bushings out and back in and also how to cut any frozen cam adjusters out with a reciprocating saw. ruclips.net/video/6FzEHygizoI/видео.html
**Before doing the final tightening to spec of suspension components, you should have the weight of the vehicle on it's wheels so the component is sitting in it's normal point of articulation. You can snug up fasteners for suspension components but wait until the weight of the vehicle is on the tires before tightening them to the final torque spec. This is best practice so the bushings don't bind and the component will travel more freely within it's range of movement. We learned this after we shot the video and we wanted to let people know the correct way to tighten suspension components.
Excellent tutorial! very clear presentation and videotaping.A job well done!How long did it take per side?Cheers
I own a 2000 toyo trd first gen and it had worn bushings on the steering gear and I was able to do the job by myself from watching YT tutorials and being lucky to find a factory manual for a 2003 wich is basically the same vehicle.Cheers
Hey Rob, sorry for the late reply. I'd say around 2 hours per side. If you have to cut out any cam sleeves, it will add quite a bit more time.
No problem and thank you for the reply, I think I will have to take it to a shop because I do not have a big enough vise and also do not have someone to help me.I really enjoyed your video very informative.Thank you
I don't know Rob, the amount of money a shop will charge for this job is worth the expense of buying yourself a new vice. You don't really need somebody to help you. You can do this all on your own. I think you'll be shocked how much a shop will charge for this job.
The fact that you are on the ground with jack stands and everything you do is how the home mechanic will have to do speaks volumes... This really is the best Toyota mechanic channel around...thank you
Hey Joe, thanks for the very nice compliment of our channel. We really appreciate it! By the way, we have a Part 2 for this video. ruclips.net/video/6FzEHygizoI/видео.htmlsi=1dWvfhA-sP6-rNz5 Happy Wrenching!
5 years later I am so thankful you've made this video. I've come to you for a few things, steering rack and this were the biggest life savers. I love that you explain it in such a way, that my brother who could barely change his oil can watch this and get the job done perfectly. I was scratching my head about how to get the old bushings out easily. This channel rocks and should get more exposure that you do
Great to hear our videos are helping you out and we appreciate your nice compliment of our channel. I do sometimes wonder why we don't attract more people to our channel, but we'll just keep plugging along doing what we do. Take care and Happy Wrenching!
Sir, I wanna say this:
This is one of the most comprehensive, thorough, and eloquent videos I have seen so far. Very well-done! A great prep work, thorough and methodic application, and attention to detail.
A True Academician!
Thank you!
Well Hey, we really appreciate the nice compliment. Sean and I try our best to produce very detailed and easy to follow videos. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
This channel is a must see for 3rd gen owner truly awesome
Thanks! Sean and I really appreciate your comment.
Alot of videos make jobs like this look easy. This video really details all the issues one might run into while attempting a job like this. Well done.
Thanks! Part 2 shows another issue that can make the job take a lot longer. Check it out: ruclips.net/video/6FzEHygizoI/видео.htmlsi=RlZ0kFo3EaouMSI4
About to do the same to my 99 Prado. If I do work on my mate's cars or bikes, I always tell them that my works only guaranteed until the vehicle is moved! 😉
That seems fair.
Ridiculously well documented. Someone who’s never really done anything to their car could do this. Amazing
Thanks John for the nice compliment. What you said is exactly what we are after. We want to inspire people to take up the challenge of auto mechanics. We can do that by giving them detailed videos to inspire confidence in their ability to tackle a job. We gear our videos to the absolute beginner so everyone can be successful using our videos as a tutorial. For the more experienced mechanics, they won't need that level of instruction but they can always fast forward and find a particular section they need clarification on and then go on their merry way. We really appreciate it John. Thanks!
Omg, I got an O'Reillys commercial during the "uhh" compilation. The "uhh"s turned into "ohs" and I was dying.
That is pretty funny. I guess the advertisements are a good thing.
I just did this on my 04 Tacoma prerunner, and I would recommend disconnecting the steering shaft from the top of the steering rack, this way you have more than enough room and don’t have to remove the boot from the steering rack. Also I did this with bushings from Energy Suspension which made me reuse the old metal sleeves, which added 12 hours to the job, would recommend the Whiteline ones.
You actually can get enough movement out of the steering rack without removing the steering shaft from the steering rack. Take a look at the comment I pinned and look at the note dated 12/31/16.
And Yes, Energy Suspension bushings are a huge mistake for this application.
I think Siberian Bushing is the only one now that makes a 1-piece poly bushing for these. I just installed them on my Tundra.
I'm currently rebuilding the engine on my 97 4Runner. Fortunately, this gives me under hood access and time while I wait on the machine shop. Going to order sway bar, steering, LCA (Whiteline) and UCA ES poly bushings. Your video say's good time to replace lower ball joints. Does anyone know if upper ball joints are prone to failure as well? Not a fun project but these are not disposable vehicles like so many other crappy cars on the road today.
The upper balljoints are not known to fail. I'd only replace them if there's detectable play in the joint or the boot is torn and you've been driving it with a torn boot for a long time allowing road contaminants to get into the joint and cause wear. If it's just a torn boot, you can purchase a reboot kit that comes with the boot, grease, and the wire to secure the boot to the balljoint.
I changed my dome light once. I probably wont do this though 😅
Whitey Willoby hey everyone has to start somewhere, and with our instructions anyone can do it!
The "uhh" takeout reel sounds just like Peppermint Patty Psaki doing a press conference.
It's pretty funny, right?
@@TimmyTheToolman Big thanks to you for such a great video. I did this today with Freel Good LCAs. One thing I was able to do different was I never removed the steering ram. I just unbolted it, and lifted passenger side with jack, removed the rear LCA bolt. Installed that side, then repeated, by lifting passenger side and removing driver side LCA bolt. So really only needed to pull off opposite side each time and let it pivot on side I wasn't removing. Of course the front bolts came off without an issue...had to saw off the bushings on both rears. Ugggh, thankfully I had carbide blades. Drives like new. You are the man.
@@snowhiterover You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you get it done. Great job!
Hi, my name is Oslei and I'm in São Paulo - Brazil. This video helped me a lot, because I have a 4Runner 1997 (white same as the video) and need to effect the exchanges of the bushes. Congratulations on the production and I think it will help a lot of people like me. I would like to have all the tools that you have but here in Brazil they are very expensive ($$$$$) but I believe that with the ones I have I will be able to make the exchanges without problems (mainly with this step by step video)
I wish you success and congratulations on the quality of the material available to all Toyoteiros in the world.
Hey Oslei, I think you're the first person who's commented on our channel from Brazil. Yeah, the right tools can make all the difference but I absolutely understand what you're saying about how expensive tools can be. So even if you use Amazon, the prices are still high for you?
Good luck with the repair and don't hesitate to ask me any questions if you run into any problems. Sometimes the cams can get rusted in the sleeve of the bushing and then you have to cut them out. I hope in your case all the cam adjusters come out easy. I give some helpful tips in the video description so be sure to read it before you get started on this repair.
I just wanted to thank you for this detailed video on this job. Because of your help I did this job myself (and while at it replaced lower ball joint, sway bushings, endlinks, and tie rods) and saved myself well over a grand in labor costs. Thank you!
You're welcome. Thanks for commenting and sharing you success story with us. We love hearing how people have saved themselves a ton of money using our videos. Happy Wrenching!
First off thanks for the videos. I replaced the bushings over the weekend on a 3rd gen. The worst part of the whole project was getting the washers to fit between the outer side of the bushings. You mentioned it was hard around 31:50. How hard was it!? I had to hammer and wedge the washer to get it in and caused a bit of damage to the poly bushing. My theory is the frame has been squeezed together by the Cam bolts from the factory LCA install.
Yeah, we didn't have as much of a struggle as you did. Our install required no pounding or bushing damage. Glad our video helped you out and we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Hello Timmy, Any comments on those whiteline bushings?
I've read some comments in regards to sticking to OEM bushings, for the 4 runner, I personally have a 95 series prado, but the lower control arms are the same.
I can't seem to find any listings for OEM LCA's bushings
I've been running Whiteline bushings on my 98 for around 50k miles, and they are fine. There were many 4wheeling trips over that time, so some hard miles.
5@@TimmyTheToolman Timmy I'm about to order the Whiteline bushings
is it $95 per bushing or is that the price for the bushing set?
@@NoLimitsFunGarage It's the whole set.
1. Outer tie rod 19mm
2. Mark cam adjusters
3. Free steering rack - bracket, two bolts, disconnect boot, support with jack+wood
4. 22m/19mm for bushings
5. Shock bolt 19mm
6. Lower ball joint 24mm
7. 12 ton bottle jack+heat to press out
8. Vice+channel locks+receiving cup to press in
Your welcome
Thanks for the synopsis of what's involved to do the job. I would still recommend people watch the video though.
@@TimmyTheToolman absolutely, but I take notes to summarize what needs to be done when I'm doing the job
You have no idea how much I appreciate this video. I was doing suspension work and I stopped because I wasn't ready for the headaches of removing the bushings from the control arm. After seeing your video I started the project again and I couldn't believe how easy it was to remove the bushings.Thanks again for a great video.
You're welcome Sledge. We're glad our video helped you out and gave you the confidence to complete the job. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success with us.
Will this stiffin loose suspension? One of my Control arms have been replaced and that side is a lot stiffer that the other side(it bottoms out often since it’s lowered)
It shouldn't make the ride rougher but it would eliminate a loose feeling or clunking if the bushings were really worn out. If the control arm is bottoming out onto the frame, maybe the bump stop on the new control arm is a bit stiffer than the older one on the other side.
So you have a lowered 4runner?
@@TimmyTheToolman Tacoma sorry, it’s the pre runner model lifted from factory. New shocks and coils but one side is softer, it rode like thay before I changed them out too
@@TimmyTheToolman I have installed new lower bump stops too
Tim your channel has helped me modify both of my gx 470's (2004) I never turned a wrench prior to this year and have been able to do everything from Lift, LCA, UCA, brakes rooters and pads, oil changes you name it. I am just wondering if I will still have to loosen the rack if I am gonna cut out pins because I have the super pro LCA, I figured maybe the toyota you are workingh on has KDSS and Mine does not. Also I have seen videos of guys taking the knuckle bracket off and some do not. Any recomendations?
The video we did this on is a 3rd Gen 4runner and I haven't done this on an LX470. I'm not sure about all the particulars to get the LCAs off on your rig.
It's great to hear you've been doing all your own wrenching. That has to feel good.
Good video! Really helpful to see your method for removing and replacing lower control arm bushings with basic tools. Also really helpful that you post all the part #'s, torque specs and links! The very end of the video with the outtakes is hilarious!
Glad you like the video. Sean stringing together all my uhs and ums had me crying laughing. I guess I have to work on my speech skills so he doesn't have to do so much editing.
My control arm bushings look like there is rubber visible on one side and none on the other? i can move the control arm a bit with a pry bar back and forth, im debating whether to do the entire arms or just the bushings... who know if my cams are seized as well, 98 4 runner in Montana climate its whole life.
Your arms are probably ok but the bushings sound like they are shot. I think it's a safe assumption that your cam adjusters will be rusted inside the bushing sleeve. Make sure you have a reciprocating saw on hand and some good steel blades. Part 2 of this video will help you out: ruclips.net/video/6FzEHygizoI/видео.html
Great Video Timmy!
At the end, when the camber was suddenly way off toward positive, I'm thinking this would only be immediately upon setting the truck back down on its own tires. It would normalize after a bit of driving.
When the suspension fully extends/ articulates, the lower end of the hubs/wheels tuck in (probably due to the difference in length of the upper and lower control arms, and maybe their default angles to the ground which might not be the same.)
When the suspension fully articulates, the wheels don't just drop down and stay parallel with each other, they tend to move in a bit of an arc and the lower end of the wheels tuck in. So I imagine, at point of first contact with the ground as you lower the truck, the wheels will have their bottoms tucked in since the suspension will still be quite articulated. The tires will grip and resist being dragged across the ground.
As the weight of the truck rests back on the suspension, the suspension system will want to push the bottom of the tires back out, but friction will keep the bottom of the tires in pretty much the same place they first touched the ground.
If one would drive the truck back and forth a bit and weave the steering a bit, the tension in the suspension would soon push the bottom of the wheels back out and eliminate the sudden positive camber.
Thanks and you're may be right.
The real video begins at 49:30 ;)
That Sean is a funny guy. He put that montage together.
Here is another helpful tip for this job. Instead of taking out only 1 of the power steering line guide bracket bolts (12mm), take out all 3. They are all 12mm bolts with easy access. Taking out all 3 of the powering steering line guide bracket bolts gives you even more movement in the steering rack. I didn't even need to take off the boot covering the power steering rail. I found that if I tilted the rack so the passenger side was low the angle created enough space to get the bolt and cam in and out with minimal fuss. Thanks for all your work on these videos! Your repair videos are some of the best on youtube and are extremely valuable to the do-it-yourselfers.
Hey Tim, thanks for the comment. After shooting this video, I've performed this job several more times. What I found is you can pull the rack back just far enough with that one power steering bracket line disconnected on the driver side frame rail to get the cam adjuster bolt to clear the steering rack. When we filmed this job, I just didn't think we could pull the rack back far enough for the bolt to clear but lo and behold we could. I put this update in the video description on 12/31/16. But, I can see by taking out all the power steering line bracket bolts you could move the steering rack back further with a lot less effort.
Sean and I appreciate the nice compliment. That's great to hear you think our videos are some of the best out there. Happy Wrenching Tim!
Hi Timmy what generation 4 runner are you working on in the video. I replaced my 4 runner bushings with the white line ones but they look different from yours and didn’t need to be pressed in
I didn't realize my toe plate adjuster, bolt w washer, and toe cam sub assembly were not OEM. the bolts that were previously installed did not fit the white line bushings. had to get new hardware from toyota. changing them made a huge difference in performance and now the alignment holds. yes they were that bad.
Good job getting it fixed. Hopefully you find any other janky work that was done by a previous owner or mechanic.
I've got a 95 N 1/2 tacoma. It's hard to get parts stores to understand half yr. I bought 5 sets of bushing til I finally said get me 96 parts n got the right parts finally
Yeah, I bet that's frustrating. Good luck with the job.
+1 to using a bucket, mine turned into a projectile!! Wish I had it on video. It definitely would have hit the neighbors car
Smart man James. You avoided an interesting conversation with your neighbor. Good job getting it done!
I did the lower control arm with the toyota bottle jack between the lower control arm but used under the jack bottom a piece of square stock steel and used it as a sleeve over the end of the control arm that the bottom of the jack would be and then put it in a vice so no force is on the arm,And the control arm was under the square stock in the same vice.I seen people on youtube do that and the control arm bends.Good work on the back left side lower control arm bolt,I just loosened the bolts on the rack in the middle (Took one out and only kept one in the middle to swivel the rack)and took out the bolts on the ends and the rack swivels on the center loosened bolt,It pulled down enough for me,Did not need to removed the boot,Cheers.Joe P.E.
Good job getting it done Joe. There's more the one way to skin a cat. Thanks for sharing your techniques.
Thank you so much for making these videos. I have a '98 4runner and a 2000 tundra totalling over 600,000 miles between them and thanks to you I've been able to keep them running safely without any trips to the shop. If I lived near you, I'd definitely take you out for a beer.
Hey Scott, great to hear you're doing all your own wrenching with some help from our videos. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Timmy!
Did mine today. Pretty work intensive .
Started by using the OEM Toyota vehicle bottle jack but it didn't have enough tonnage.
First one popped out hard. Second one took a lot of air hammer persuasion. Third and 4th I got a bottle jack from autozone and it was enough.
Things flew off like a cannon.
My vehicle would hard left under braking. I had replaced everything and still had the issue. Although my bushings didn't look/feel worn, the issue is now gone. I marked the cams pretty good but will be getting an alignment Tuesday to see if I can get better caster numbers/driving.
Used whitelines. My inner sleeve slid in with no pressing. Rented some C clamp bearing puller kit thing at autozone and pressing them in was super easy. Full day job.
See u on nov 3.
Hey Francois, good job getting the job done. Great to hear it fixed your issue when braking. Diagnosing a problem like that can be difficult, and like you said, being able to tell if the LCA bushings are for sure bad isn't easy either.
Sounds like you would have benefitted from more heat on the arms before trying to drive them out with the bottle jack. I've used this technique 3-4 times now and I've never had a bushing fly out. I load up the bushing a little and then heat it up really good. I give a few cranks with the bottle jack and usually see movement right away. If there's still not movement, I'll give it a little more pressure. If there's still no movement, I'll apply more heat and/or check to see if the bottle jack is pushing directly square on the bushing. You want the piston of the bottle jack pushing directly inline with the bushing and not at a slight angle. If it's not driving with force straight out, this will affect how well it will work.
Some people have managed to destroy their LCAs by using too much force with the bottle jack and spread out the arms to where they won't fit in the frame mounts anymore. Because of that, we decided to make Part 2 of this video showing how you can do the bushing removal with a hydraulic press. The Nov 3rd party is going to be fun. See you then.
Thanks for the video -- The lack of rust and corrosion is hilarious!
Yeah, we are pretty darn spoiled in the California Bay Area. Vehicles last a very long time out here.
Bah, come to northern wisconsin. This is where real rust begins, and no I'm not trying to brag, it's absolutely horseshit to work on any vehicle.
Haha, my bushing sleeves were pretty corroded but the cams/bolts came out like butter. Had to clean off some rush but was easy.
Tim, your videos are great! I have a stock 2wd 98 4 runner and im considering replacing my upper and lower control arm bushings with Energy suspension polyurethane bushings. I'd sure like your feed back please. Thanks! Rich
I'm not sure about the uppers, but Whiteline bushings are way better for the lowers. Energy Suspension aren't a complete bushing and sleeve combo like the Whiteline bushings are. If you can't find something similar to Whiteline for the uppers, I'd go with OEM Toyota bushings.
Question...Why can't you put the rear adjuster in from the front so you don't have all the issues trying to get past the Rack and pinion
Great question Bill. I think it's because the nut that the cam adjuster bolt threads into would stick out far enough on the back side to contact the steering rack boot. This would ultimately tear the boot.
My personal notes from doing this job with the bottle jack method is that being super careful isn't the right description. If you aren't pressing the bushing out using almost zero effort, you're bending the arms. My arms were clean and absolutely rust free.
I used my 12-ton jack to apply just a little but of pressure while I applied heat to the arm around the bushing. Once it was nice and hot I just barely cranked on the arm and the bushings pressed right out. It was such little force, absolutely nothing was strained or forced whatsoever.
The arms still managed to spread on me probably 1-2mm. Like maybe the width of a washer or two. This made re-install a real pain in the ass. I managed to get it done, but it was a lot of hammering and lubing and prying. My theory is that the heat here may actually be hurting as much as it's helping -- I'm wondering if the metal is getting hot enough to slightly deform with the little bit of pressure put on it with the jack. It certainly aids the bushing in sliding out... but I dont know how you find that sweet spot.
If I did this job again, I'd source the bearing splitter and do the press method (or just buy some cleaned up and reinforced arms from one of the sellers who sell them with the eimkeith bits already installed).
Your experience is interesting. I've done the bottle jack method a couple times and both came out with minimal force with the right application of heat and the arms went in without issue. I think there is a chance you did use too much heat. Metal can flex and bounce back into shape which is what happens with this method. But, use too much force, and you actually bend them. Your result isn't that common, at least I haven't heard that many people on forums and Toyota Facebook pages saying they bent their LCAs with the bottle jack technique.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah my language is a bit broad I suppose -- I just found it super shocking that mine bent at all. I was in my workshop thinking "OK, Timmy says not to force this so any moderate resistance and I'm finding a bearing splitter!" and they just slid on out. But then they were just BARELY spread apart. Super weird.
The bushings are $120 per side. The entire lower control arm with bushings is $230. I think I'll wait until I crunch mine on a rock then replace the whole assembly.
Alrighty then. Crunch away and Happy Wheeling.
been struggling all day with these cutting and hitting them didn't try this....lucky still got 1 arm to do🤦♂️😂
Make sure to only use moderate force with the bottle jack and ample heat. The one major concern is using too much force and bending the control arms outward. We made a Part 2 also to cover how to cut the arms out if the cam sleeves are frozen inside the bushing and also how to use a press to get the bushings out. ruclips.net/video/6FzEHygizoI/видео.html
How small of a bottle jack do you need to fit in there?
I don't know the maximum length available between the arms. A tape measure will help you figure it out.
Should have a million views cheers from oz
luke 90series Thanks Luke. We’re steadily gaining subscribers but I think we’d have to expand our realm of models we work on to attract a larger audience. We’re having fun doing it and we know we’re helping people out so that’s what’s important to us.
Bradah Timmy. Mahalo for sharing
Is 5/23 and ready to tackle this project on my taco 98
Good luck our Hawaiian Brother! You should watch Part 2 as well for a second technique to get the bushings out and to also learn how to cut out the cam adjusters if you unfortunately find one of more of them frozen into the bushing sleeve. ruclips.net/video/6FzEHygizoI/видео.html
Tried remove lower lower ball joint .could not get out had cut.itout .trying to replacing it been watching other videos..they don't show shit .from begin.
Well, you came to right place. We show all kinds of shit in our videos.
Helping a friend do this job on his truck this time around. Running into the same issue when using the bottle jack method we are able to press out the bushings but they are not coming out with the metal sleeves attached like in the video. We have a applied a shit ton of heat, used a large socket along with the bottle jack to capture the outside edge of the metal sleeve and tried pressing it out, Last Resort was cut it in half and use an air hammer. No luck. No immediate access to a press either. His options now are check in with some local shops that may be able to press it out or buy new lower control arms. Anybody have any other alternatives or tricks on how you got those metal sleeves out?
One guy told me he had good luck with using penetrating oil. He shot it into the hole on the side of the sleeve. Maybe a little heat with the penetrsring oil will help break free the metal bushing sleeve from the arm.
A warning about lower control arm bushings -they have a steel Iner sleeve and it con become rusted/seized to the cam adjuster sleeve and can be imposable to remove without destroying the cam adjuster so make shure you can buy cam adjusters before you try this -not so easy job.
Thanks for the comment John and we know this as well. We document how to handle frozen cam adjusters in Part 2: ruclips.net/video/6FzEHygizoI/видео.html
This video saved me a lot of frustration and headache. After a lower ball joint broke 4 bolts and we nearly had a horrible accident then trying to repair the damage in order to get the car back on the road ... I tried to get the lower control arm off only to find the cam adjuster seized.Thank you for explaining this so well. I cut the old one and ordered a new one.
Hey Robert, glad our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Out of curiosity do you think I would still need to take of the steering rack if I was replace inner and outer tie rods. LCA and lbj. I should have more than enough clearance with the tie rods out to remove and replace the LCA
You have to disconnect the steering rack and pull it back far enough so you can remove the rear bolts that attach the LCA to the frame. That's the reason for it. Even with the inner and outer tie rods disconnected, the shaft of the steering rack would still impede with the bolt coming out. But, if you took the inner and outer tie rods out and then cranked the steering wheel all the way one way, you might be able to sneak one bolt out and then crank the steering wheel all the way the other way and sneak the other bolt out. That might work.
Hi Timmy what generation 4 runner are you working on in the video. I replaced my 4 runner bushings with the white line ones but they look different from yours and didn’t need to be pressed in
3rd Generation.
I just did this job on my 4 runner. I found that the thing to do is to cut the bushing flange off and thin press the bushing guts out this way you don't put excessive force on the Controle arm. pressing the guts out. Then use a sharp punch to peal the bushing steel sleve in and then press the sleve out.
Sure, whatever works. You got it done and that's all that counts. We also show another way in Part 2 using a press. ruclips.net/video/6FzEHygizoI/видео.html
Anyone in SoCal know where I can get bushings pressed out? I can do the rest but don’t have the tools for that step...
My buddy's Anwar and CJ might be able to help you out. They do work for people. Contact Anwar on Facebook: facebook.com/aljanabi77. Tell Anwar I referred you.
would it be possible to put the adjuster and bolt in opposite to clear the steering rack easier?
I suppose. I've never tried it.
Yet another well-executed, informative 3rd Gen T4R DIY service tutorial by you two fellow Bay Area 3rd Gen 4Runner guys! Thanks for it!
Let me know if you want to do a tutorial on installing some new SPC/LC adjustable front UCA's on a 3rd Gen, as I need to install some on mine ASAP as one of my bushings is completely disintegrated. Been running the 3" lift for a few years now and figure its time to splurge on some aftermarket UCA's to finally bring the alignment back into spec, and obviously make it safe to drive again!
Unfortunately I live in SF and I don't really have the space to do it......
We just did a lift on a 2000 Tacoma on Thursday and it included installing SPC UCA's. Are you on toyota-4runner.org? We're having a Mod/Meet-up Day at my place on May 13th. We could probably help you out that day.
Here's the link to the thread:
www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/209965-official-bay-area-mod-meet-greet-thread-23.html#post2663726
Link for the plate, toe adjust on amazon says will not fit 03 tacoma are these part numbers the same for 1st gen Tacomas?
They are the same. Toyota probably has a different part number for this same part for a 1st Gen Tacoma.
Do you guys think a 6 ton bottle jack will work cuz that’s what I have,I don’t got a 12 ton lol
It will work.
Man I wish I had you around to just help me work on mine to make a cool video! Awesome..
Well, you could move to the overpriced California Bay Area. Glad you like the video.
Great video. Should the process be the same for a 2001 Tacoma 4x4?
Yes, it would be the same. Your sway bar end links attach differently to the LCA but that's pretty much it. The 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacomas pretty much have identical front ends.
Just did this to my sons 99. We busted a puller trying to get the ball joint off. Couldn’t find a pulled to do it so we just took off the 4 bolts under the ball joint. Removed and pressed the bushings in with the ball joint attached to the LCA. Oh, and the old bushings DID explode out on us and one flew. After the first one, we caught them all in a bucket. 👍 Thanks again Timmy for the awesome vids!
Sounds like you met some challenges but you got it done and that's great to hear. You used the bucket catching idea. Awesome! You're very welcome!
Just wondering....my 98 4runner hasnt had any steerng/suspension bushings ever replaced. Ive started experincing significant sway at highway speeds. Just wondering what other bushings I should replace and what order I should replace them in. Thanks for the great info!
Steering rack bushings. Front and rear sway bar bushings. Upper and lower rear control arm bushings. Maybe the front upper control arm bushings as well. We have videos for all these bushing replacements. If you have questions, just ask.
I considered using the burn method to remove the bushing, but would the heat change the temper in any way?
The amount of heat necessary isn't going to change the strength of the steel. But, that's just my opinion. I have no science to back it up. I can say I've been running the Durobump bushings for quite some time and my front differential brackets haven't cracked. So there's that.
Any ideas for getting the bushing out without having a receiving cup like you used?
Can you give a time stamp to help me answer your question?
4th generation 4runner has the ball joints as an integral part of the assembly so if the bushings are compromised you can be certain the ball joints move like a joy stick. Such is the case with mine after 246k miles.
My only cost effective option is to go with MOOG L.C.A.’s at $180.00 per L.C.A. inclusive of bushings and ball joint.
I was a bit confused about the adjustments but I see now it’s more of an oblong Front/back adjustment and not the up/down of control arm. At least I think that’s what it is.
I may just let my local shop install the parts, although I don’t like it when customers ask me to install appliance parts because let’s face it, parts mark up is how businesses make $$$.
You wouldn’t bring a steak to a restaurant and ask the chef to cook it.
This is one case my mechanic will make an exception.
Thanks for the video.
Hi, Timmy
Thank you so much for your sharing which it really let me learn more about my 1999 Hilux Surf RZN185(similar as 4runner gen3). I'm from Hong Kong and I think the total qty for this model in Hong Kong is not over 50s. So the parts are quite difficult to to find. Sometimes bought from Japan (but it is the crazy price.....) sometimes bought from Ebay.
Anyway, thank you again for everything and your great effort. ^.^
Wilson
You're welcome. I think you're the first person I know of from Hong Kong that has commented on one of our videos. One of the cool things about starting a RUclips channel is the people you reach across the World. Happy Wrenching my Hong Kong Brother!
How’s the whiteline bushing holding up all these year
Very well.
At 31:34 you talk about a "washer we added in". Were these washers there originally?
The washers are part of the Whiteline bushings kit. You install them on either side of the bushings between the bushing and the frame mounts for the control arm.
These videos are just outstanding!
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!
You need to do a video on clutch replacement on a 3.4 manual. Lol. Jk. I’m also having a weird issue of very notchy shifting. It does not grind at all. Clutch actually feels ok. Just got this 4x4 on the cheap. Definitely wasn’t well taking care of
Thanks brother. I appreciate it.
You're welcome.
With the white line bushings did anyone notice getting squeaky noise problems? I try and stay away from poly bushings but oem bushings are ridiculously expensive
White line makes regular bushings too, you don’t have to buy the poly ones.. but you’re better off buying the entire OEM lower control arm with bushings already pressed in if you go OEM.
- Sean
Thanks Sean I'll check that out from white line and your right about just buying the whole arm
Hey Timmy !! thanks a lot for all the videos! You teach me plenty!
I'd replace valve covers and injectors in my Tacoma 2000 3.4 4x4 manual, and now runs like new and CEL-less
Now I need to replace LCAs ,and because of Caltrans and the brine they use to remove snow in winters, I know I will need to cut the Cam Adjusters....Amazon filter says, that the parts you used to replace yours will not fit In my Tacoma. Is that right? Or I should not pay attention to it and get it anyways?
many thanks
German from Tahoe
The parts for the cam adjusters should be the same as your Tacoma. The arms themselves are different because you have a different type of sway bar connection than a 3rd Gen 4runner. I bet Toyota used different part numbers for the same cam adjuster parts and that's why Amazon is saying they're not compatible.
Excuse me, where i can get the repair manual like yours?
Search for your year Ebay. For example: "1999 Toyota 4runner Factory Service Manual" You'll most likely find a set for sale for a fair price.
can I reuse the old Cam bolts or do I need to purchase new ones?
If you didn’t have to cut anything out, then yeah you can reuse your CAMs and cam bolts.
- Sean
You shouldnt tighten the Camber bolt until the vehicle is on the ground. If you do you will will rip the bushing as the bushing are not made to articulate from where the control arm is hanging all the way to where the vehicle is on the ground.
bigjjay209 You are correct. I learned this after we shot the video. The weight of the vehicle should be on the tires before you tighten suspension components to spec. I will add a pinned comment letting people know this. Thanks.
Timmy The Toolman dont get me wrong though nice video
No Big Jay, I'm glad you reminded me about this. Thanks!
The center sleeve in the bushing isn't bonded to the to the polyurethane so it can be tightened before on the ground. The OEM bushings are all bonded and should have the weight of the 4runner on it before tightening so you dont over flex the bonded rubber parts.
Next time you’re doing this just a helpful little hint. when you’re torquing down your cam plates if you put a seven eights closed in wrench on the bolt and use a three-quarter inch torque bar with a half inch adapter it will fit in a the 7/8 open side of the wrench to give you the ability to torque it without removing the steering rack
Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
If knew about marking the cam for alignment
Not sure if you're asking something or making a statement Jeff.
Wow, you are incredibly well organized and thorough. I have a 2004 Toyota Highlander, 6 cylinder, with 171,000 miles and failed inspection due to needing lower control arm bushing replacement on both sides. They told me they have to take the engine out to do this. 14 hours of work. Does that make sense to you? Thanks
Hey John, no, it doesn't make any sense to have to pull the engine to remove control arms. Are you sure they're not talking about something else that requires the removal of the engine? If you want, how me some pictures of your lower control arms so I can make sense of why they are saying the removal of the engine is necessary. Here's my email address: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
Thank you so much for all your detailed videos, I’ve practically restored a 97 with your help.
Just pressed out all my uca and lca bushings today, and my god it was the toughest job so far. My 10t press and various press accessories barely got me through. The arms are surprisingly easy to damage if press sleeves aren’t carefully positioned
You're very welcome. Great job doing all your own work.
I was gonna make a wise crack about stolen bicycles, but the last 3 minutes of the video shut me up.
Pretty funny shit huh Stan? I guess I need to take some speech lessons. Too many uhhs, umms and even a duh too.
Thanks for showing the work in a very detail ways. I don’t have a 4Runner or Tacoma, but I have a Sequoia. It is @ 200,000 miles so I believe it is time to replace those bushing.
You're welcome. Hope the job goes smooth for you. Happy Wrenching!
Congrats on the retirement Timmy!
Thanks Benji!
Thanks for the tutorial. I'm in Australia and have a toyota minivan. There's not much out there in regards to service manuals but this definitely helps. Thanks again Timmy
You're welcome Geoffrey. Glad our video helped you out.
what year is this 4runner? thanks!
Don't remember the exact year. It's a 3td Generation 4runner (96-02).
Just got done doing this repair over the weekend. Thanks Tim for all the good information in this video it helped out a lot. I do want to say that I think the Amazon links are not correct in clicking on them it takes you to parts that do not seem correct. The part numbers are correct but the Amazon links seem to be taking you to incorrect parts one was listed as a windshield washer bolt. Luckily I was able to pick up all the correct parts from a local Toyota dealer. I did this work on a 03 Tacoma I don’t believe it’s too much different if it all done on the 4 Runners. Un lucky for me I did have to cut out two of the cam sleeves the other two came out OK I followed Tim’s lead and bought the Diablo carbide blade they seem to cut through them fairly easily. After being able to get out my lower control arms I unfortunately found out that my bushings were so bad that despite following the instructions in the video placing it in a vice using a bottle jack and applying enough heat to where we almost caught the garage on fire they still would not come out not wanting to risk damaging the control arms I looked into what a local shop around me would charge me to press them out not having access to a press myself. Long story short the amount of money that local shops around me wanted to charge would be more than if I just went and bought new lower control arms myself. This was a bummer because I had purchased the white line bushings like they use in this video I ended up not being able to use them and just buying new lower control arms but like I said it was cheaper way out than having a shop press out the old bushings or me risk damaging the Toyota lower control arms. All in all I still believe that the bottle jack message would work I just feel my bushings were so shot that this method was not working.
Yeah, I checked the links and they are a bit funky. I'll see if I can generate some better ones. Thanks for the heads up on that. Sorry to hear the repair didn't work for you and you had to resort to buying new control arms. But, you got the job done and that's what counts. Happy Wrenching!
Hey Timmy, I ordered Moog LCAs and Cam bolts to replace my OE to save on cost. Any thoughts on going with Moog, or any non-OE for these placements? Hope I made the right decision.
I did replace the LBJs with OE though.
I'm not a big fan of aftermarket suspension components unless it's part of a quality lift kit or other manufacturer that produces components that exceed the quality of OEM. Moog is ok and you'll probably be fine but they are not built to the same quality as OEM. I'm guessing you bought arms because yours were rusted out? Usually, you just replace the bushings and keep your OEM arms.
@@TimmyTheToolman Arms look fine but they are 24 yr old. I figure it would be easier to replace the entire thing. I just don’t have the extra tools/equipment to do the bushings.
@@marcsmartinez01 Gotcha. I'd hang onto the arms just in case.
The following pertains to energysuspension bushings.
There are a lot of issues with these bushings, some are not manufacturers' fault, others - are. And I am not talking about price - this is something the buyer at least knows in advance.
1. Their claim that all it takes is "some smoke from the bushing to separate the sleeves from rubber" is outright lie. It may be the case with jeep but certainly not with Toyota - you need to torch it for a long time to actually burn rubber off.
2. The fact that they don't provide sleeves with the bushings is simply ridiculous. Especially considering price. In fact, I would not mind paying extra so that I did not have to dicect the old bushings, and the first issue is minor compared to this one. It is pretty common for bolts/sleeves freeze in bushings so it's virtually impossible to separated them from inner bushing sleeves without damaging.
It may not be an issue with jeeps and fords because their bushings are replaced on a regular basis but Toyota bushings last so long that it's practically unavoidable to face this. In my case, the truck is 17 yo with 230,000 miles, and the original bushings were still good. The only reason I had to replace them was installation of lift and JBA upper control arms that required alignment that couldn't be performed because - you guessed it - one bolt and one cam sleeve were frozen. After 17 years in the Midwest and N-E, is should not come as a surprise.
This condition requires a hell of a lot of heating and pounding, pounding and heating, and then it's a real PITA to attach the [original] washers to most likely damaged bushing sleeves.
3. The last issue is design - there are no lubrication means. And don't tell me it's impossible - just look at JBA upper control arms. I installed grease fitting in control arm ears and drilled holes in the bushings to allow grease flow to inner sleeves. Hope it will work.
Overall, bushing material is probably adequate but pure inexcusable greed that prevented the manufacturer from providing lower bushing sleeves and washers (even for extra $$) is beyond ridiculous.
Bottom line: if your vehicle is 10+ yo and has spent that time in places where winter happens every year, expect MAJOR (BIGLY!) hassle installing these bushings. Or - MUCH BETTER OPTION - buy from another manufacture that does provide all necessary coponents and does not force to wash and reuse condoms because reusing bushing sleeves is just as ridiculous as reusing condoms.
Dude, you could have avoided all this drama if you followed our lead and just went with the Whiteline bushings. Oh well.
@@TimmyTheToolman True - I could and should've used OEM bushings. But I wanted to warn others from stepping into the same puddle. Anything wrong with that?
@@nofyfb123 No, nothing wrong with that. Energy Suspension is not the right choice for replacement LCA bushings. Hopefully you'll save others from choosing them.
What is with the mower can’t hear you.
It never f*cking fails that every time we are filming at my house, someone gardener is running a mower, weed whacker or hedger. If it's not a gardener ruining our audio, it's garbage trucks. It it's not garbage trucks, it's a-holes with super loud exhaust ripping down my street. Can you tell I love my neighborhood? Can't wait to get the f*ck out to a much more quiet existence someplace else. If we waited for a quiet moment to start filming, our videos would take twice as long to film. My neighborhood is very noisy and not the greatest for filming, but it is what it is.
For when you pressed the be bushings in
Solid comment, possibly the best we have received 👍🏻
- Sean
Very nice videos that you make. They are very helpful thank you for sharing them with us stay well.
Thanks Juan. Great to hear you're finding our videos helpful. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
new sub you have helped me so much with my 3rd gen
@williammaes Thanks for subscribing, Will! Welcome to our channel.
@@TimmyTheToolman hey what's the worst failure of a bad control arm bushing? Mine is very squeaky.
Legit video. Thanks 🎉
Thanks and you're welcome Jeff. Check out Part 2 as well. ruclips.net/video/6FzEHygizoI/видео.html
That is lucky. My Toyota corolla spacio 1999 is cracked front lower control arm rear bushing at 97555 miles
There seem to be many inexpensive aftermarket lower control arms all over the internet, what are the consensus on these? It seems like it would be easier to just buy an entire control arms with new bushings already pressed in. Does anyone have experience with these aftermarket LCA's? Should they be avoided?
I wouldn't recommend them. The construction isn't as strong, and the bushings usually suck.
Thank you! @@TimmyTheToolman
@@elevy01 You're welcome.
Are the bushings different sizes?
No, they're all the same size.
"projectile" lol that was funny good job btw
Glad you appreciate the humor. Thanks!
Very detailed and thorough. Nice job.
Thanks Ed. Glad you like it.
I love the "um" reel at the end...
Yeah, it's pretty damn funny. I've showed it to a bunch of guys at work and it always gets good laughs.
I used this bottle jack technique the other day, and it worked perfectly. Thank you for this video, as well as many others that I’ve referenced. I did have one bushing explode out and shoot across my garage, hitting a box and tire. That was fun haha.
Glad it worked out for you. Good job getting it done!
Have buy the lower control arm
Hey Jeff, could you clarify what you're trying to say?
Another outstanding video! Just started doing this and used the bottle jack with a heat gun and some PB blaster. By slowly adding pressure with the bottle jack and heat, the old bushes came out with no problems. Doing the steering bushings at the same time so getting the rack out of way hasn't been an issue...Thanks guys!
Thanks! Glad you like the video. Great job doing the work yourself. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Whiching your video is something anyone can do. I already know how to do. But your video is good to watch and to see how another person redo the same thing I've already know or done. Ever wonder if these friends or others ever paid you to work on the SUV. One thing is you actually take the time to go over every little step and it take a lot of time from doing and getting parts off and on
Glad you like the video. The people we help usually treat us to lunch and beers. We don't charge people if it means we get a new video out of it to share on our channel. There have been local people who have hit me up for common jobs like the rear axle seals and I have done it for them at a price much much less than a shop would charge.
Giving the viewer extra detail is what makes us different than many other automotive RUclips channels. The downside to offering this extra detail is our videos are longer than most. Some people don't like long videos but it's my opinion if somebody wants to know how to do something, they'll sit through the video if it means they will be successful with the job. And, people can always skip around through the video if they just need to see one part that they are stuck on. When people complain about the video length, I just tell them nobody is forcing them to watch the whole thing. Skip through it and watch the parts you need help with. It's pretty simple.
Great video! What size is the receiving cup? Is it a socket? Every heard of oblonging the arms where the bushing goes ? My friend/mechanic said to be prepared to buy the whole arm if that happens. Tha ks
Don't remember the size of the receiving cup. You could just take some measuring calipers and measure the diameter on the ends of the arm to know what size you'll need. Never heard of oblonging the arm. Unless these arms are rusted to shit or you make a mistake and use to much force to remove the bushing causing the arm to bend outward, I think these arms are pretty bullet proof.
This video is great cheers guys
Thanks Dave. We're glad you like it.