Front Upper Control Arm Bushing Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
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In this video, we show you how to replace the OEM Front Upper Control Arm Bushings on a 3rd Generation Toyota 4runner. This procedure would also be identical for a 1st Gen Toyota Tacoma. Even though this repair was done on a 3rd Gen 4runner, the techniques we share would also translate to other makes and model vehicles.
*Torque Specs*
Upper Balljoint Castle Nut - 80 ft-lbf
UCA Bolt/Nut - 87 ft-lbf
Wheel Lug Nuts - 85 ft-lbf
*PARTS*
*OEM UCA Bushings #48632-35080 (Need 4 if you servicing both control arms)
www.ebay.com/i...
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*6 Ton Jack Stands - (to safely support vehicle while you're working on it)
amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock (This is just one. I recommend buying two) amzn.to/3lNC3MG
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun
- (used to remove wheel lug nuts)
amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun - (used to remove upper balljoint castle nut)
amzn.to/2uqWnZy
*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
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*Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set - (nice set for multiple size lug nuts)
amzn.to/3w8Uwtc
*Lisle Plastic Fastener Removal Tool - (to remove plastic mud flap clips in fender well)
amzn.to/2SskYuT
*Knipex Diagonal Cutters - (used to remove cotter pin from upper balljoint castle nut)
amzn.to/300BRRE
*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set - (used with Dewalt gun to remove UBJ castle nut)
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*OTC 6295 Front End Service Set - (puller to break free upper balljoint from upper control arm)
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*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet - (used to turn bar screw of puller)
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*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
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*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches - (used to loosen upper control arm bolt/nut)
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*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - (nice complete set. One was used to bend fender to make room for bolt to come out.) amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*Ball Pein Hammer - (used to strike chisel and punch to bend bushing flange back to make room for the bearing splitter to fit onto the control arm) amzn.to/2W5eHV5
*Chisel & Punch Set - (nice complete set. Used a large chisel and long punch from this kit)
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*OTC Bearing Splitter - (used to capture bushing sleeve for the press work)
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Press Sleeve Kit - (sleeves from this kit were used for the press work)
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*Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press - (nice affordable press with lots of uses)
www.harborfrei...
*27mm Impact Socket - (used to press bushings out of arms)
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*Emery Cloth Roll - (used to clean up the inside of the control arm where the bushings seat)
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*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench - (used to torque wheel lug nuts)
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
- (used to torque upper balljoint castle nut and upper control arm bolt/nut) amzn.to/2U2vUA4
*Cotter Pin Set - (nice set of cotter pins. used one from this kit for the UBJ castle nut)
amzn.to/2OoD38K
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (nice very functional ratchets that will make wrenching much easier. I used a 1/4" ratchet to loosen the electrical harness and and electrical circuit bracket on the inside of the driver side engine compartment so we could get the UCA bolt out and back in.) amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
amzn.to/2QIU7te
*1/4” Drive Regular Extension Set
amzn.to/2O9nl2x
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
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*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
@@rodrigogrady7388 I don't know what your 1 word comment means. Care to add a few more words so I can decipher your message?
Most lean, but comprehensive control arm how to video I've ever seen. Very much appreciated!
You're very welcome. Thanks for the compliment.
Thanks for the time you guys take to make this videos to help us out. Keep up the good work. You guys are very appreciated
You're welcome Luis. Thanks for taking the time to comment to let us know you appreciate the videos we're making. Happy Wrenching!
Great video, super helpful, best tacoma UCA bushing video on the internet! Everyone else juat swaps control arms, or leaves old metal sleeve in arm. Having just done this using Timmy's guide, notes:
Firstly, you COULD just leave that outer bushing sleeve in place, just torch out the inside and polish with a wire brush! The Energy suspension poly bushings that is actually what you do! I wish I had noticed this or known, I would have kept old UCAs and just used $20 ES bushings, saved myself $400 in parts, tax, shipping! Live with the squeaks...
I measured the sleeve diameter needed to press out the UCA bushings. Smaller than 1.55" to fit inside uca sleeve. Bigger than 1.35" to ensure pressure on outer metal race for bushing, the part that gets stuck in there.
I've burned and pressed out the rubber core. Ive soaked with PB for days. I've heated with torch. I've cut the metal bushing with a sawzall and likely damaged my uca doing that. I've hammered on it with a cold chisel 100 times. None of that works. Need a press and need the right diameter sleeve. Timmy said a 27mm Tekton impact socket worked, but his link goes to a different mfg now, whose diameter is only 1.3", too narrow. I found the correct socket, 1.5" diam so should work, here it is:
www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6-Point-Impact-Socket-SID22127/dp/B08DK6FSRR/
Also
Thanks for sharing all that. Definitely get yourself a press. They are handy for many jobs.
Fantastic instructional!!
While some might wonder how the heck that long bolt was inserted even during manufacturing - the body wouldn't have even been there at that point! Such is the result of non-monocoque design.
Thanks for the compliment. We're glad you like it.
I am immensely thankful to you guys for such a detailed video. Mad respect.
You're very welcome and glad you found our video helpful. Thanks and Happy Wrenching!
What a great team, you guys are awesome. Many Thanks Kris
We appreciate the comment bro! Keep on wrenching 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
- Sean
Thanks so much for taking the time to make these videos they have saved me a lot of money. Watching from new Zealand:)
You're very welcome Mike. One day I will visit New Zealand. I've been wanting to travel there for a long time. We actually had some nice people renting the house next to us that are from New Zealand. They moved back so we can visit them.
Thank you for this video. I was wondering if anyone had tried using a bearing race separator for this type of bushing, and your video was exactly what I was picturing in my head! Even down to using a simple hammer and chisel for the flange.
Great minds think alike. Glad we could show your idea works.
Thank you so much for these videos. Everyone has helped me do these projects just as you described down to the size socket needed and torque specs to go back together.
Kenneth Fike that’s awesome Ken. Keep up the Sicmods!
Thank you so much for these videos. Everyone has helped me do these projects just as you described down to the size socket needed and torque specs to go back together.
You're welcome Ken. Good to hear our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know. Happy Wrenching!
You're welcome Ken. Good to hear our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know. Happy Wrenching!
So cold here and being a wrench junkie watching you.Going to sleep 💤. Have a radiator to install and LBJ ,spark plugs finished muffler and pipe yesterday.Start working on 97 Ranger next
I reckon you live where it snows.
Very informative,great video....your lighting...needs more.
👌
ben daubitu thanks for your feedback. We do our best to show the viewer all the steps whether it’s verbally or physically with the camera. Hope you learned something from this video.
Love watching your videos. Gonna buy the parts and do this job myself.
Thanks Robert. Glad you like the videos Sean and I are making. Great to hear our video inspired you to tackle this job. Good luck and Happy Wrenching!
J & T perfect team thank you guys
You're welcome.
I don't mind watching your long video because it is get into get detail and not boring. Love all your videos.
Allan Hong Thank you Allan. Sean and I appreciate your comment.
Thanks for such great content. Interestingly, my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 doesn’t show replaceable UCA bushings I contact Toyota for confirmation and they related if the bushings go bad, the only OEM repair is replacing the entire control arm! - Crazy right there.
Yep, they're wrong. They say that because they never bother to replace the bushings because of the work involved. Much easier to just replace the whole control arms. Glad you like the video.
Hello question...these bushings are for Toyota Tacoma prerunner 2002
Done tons of these things I used the press to put them back in but I knock out with impact air hammer and a chisel attachment and point punch through the little hole to start driving the bushing Out Works Good and fast if your gonna put poly bushings in remember not to trash the sleeve on the lowers you needed to put the bushing back in Haven't had any better luck with poly bushings and stock
Roger that. Thanks for sharing your technique and info.
Its safer to keep the castle nut on the first few threads when pressing the ball joint. This goes with all ball joints. This keeps the ball joint from hurting someone when it releases as the castle nut will prevent it from a violent ejection.
Sure, good point Jake.
Damn...jordan did all the work.
K B Jordan likes to do the work on his own rig. Plus, somebody has to film and it may as well be me since I have more experience than Jordan doing the camera work.
I love this guy!
Good info dude
Thanks Tyler. We appreciate your comment.
As always, a great video!
Thanks Tyler. Glad you like it.
had trouble with the bushing until i saw the bearing breaker tip, made my day easier! thank you so much
NICE! We are very happy to hear our videos made your life easier on this job. Thanks for the comment
I've found it's really easy to put the arms on with the engine out, lol.
Yeah, I can see that.
While I was able to bottlejack the bushings out of my LCA's, lacking proper tools I "heated" the uppers. I took the weed burner to them and set them on fire, when they were about seared to medium rare they pushed out easily with a pipe.
Well, good job gettin er done. I like using heat to facilitate bushing removal too but I only use moderate heat to assist with the pressing. I think some heat is ok but you have to be careful how hot you get it so you don't compromise the integrity of the steel.
Great video timmy and!! ...just in time!!! received my C Arm bushings last friday. planing to do UBJ at the same time. I wish you have just used a Control Arm Bushing Press for at list one side.
Glad you like it Terry. Did you mean a balljoint press? I'm not sure what a Control Arm Bushing Press is.
Very informative as usual, keep up the great work.
Glad you think so. We'll definitely keep on keeping on with the videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
One way to make it even easier to press out the bushing is to insert a 27mm bolt into the hole of the bushing from underneath before placing the 27mm socket over it. It will align the socket perfectly eliminating the need for any reset.
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for all the great videos.
@@steebereno Our pleasure.
Gracias my friend chingon video👍
You're welcome Adrian. Glad you like the video.
Good video, well informative thank you.
Glad you like the video Dennis. You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment.
Watching this I feel like I wanna do it myself 😂, I just wonder if the bolt will be seized in the bushings since I live in rusty enviroment. That might take the job to another dimention....Timmy you are true Master 👌. What I have noticed you have very good prices for the oem parts. Where you buying them ? I wanna do some shopping.... it might be cheper shipping them to EU 👀
Dealing with rust isn't fun. I don't envy you. Buying parts online is usually your best option. I can't remember where my buddy Jordan bought his parts from, but Partsouq.com is a good resource for OEM parts at a low price. You should check them out.
@@TimmyTheToolmanMany thx, I work in marine industry as engineer. We know how handle rust, but its not a fun in such tight spots 😂... I think it will be rusty. You are making such nice vids that feel like I could be your Padawan 🤣 TY Sir have a nice Sunday 😄
@@TimmyTheToolman Just wanted to say I got all parts at home, got it nearly half price if compare with my local shops :)) I have been waiting maybe a week to get it from order to delivery. Good deal $$$. Cant wait signing of vessel to get it fixed :)))
@@Hefa Yeah, Partsouq has great pricing. Good luck with the job once you get all the parts.
Hi Timmy 😎 happy birthday 8.may. 🎉🎉 I saw your birthday card on the refrigerator, in a other video you have🤣👍
My birthday isn't May 8th. That's just something my girlfriend wrote for me last year and I haven't taken it off the refrigerator. But thanks!
Hahahaha funny, i was so sure that I saw some hiden message🤣
Hey Timmy, great video. Novice mechanic here and I want to ask that this procedure to replace the bushings is to avoid having to pay approximately $500.00 per Control Arm and Ball joint assembly unit? Just comparing the cost of all the tools and items needed to perform the job to buying two complete units, etc.
Thanks Esteban. You have to look at tools as an investment. Specialty tools like a Harbor Freight press, press sleeves and other tools can be expensive but they will easily pay for themselves, maybe after just one job. Then, you can use them for other jobs and save more money. So, it all depends on how involved you will get into auto mechanics. If you like it and plan on doing most of your own work, make the investment.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you Timmy. I appreciate your input. I've been keeping a list of the tools you recommend and I'll begin to purchase them as my budget allows. I want to learn and do all of the mechanical work myself once I purchase a 3rd Gen 4runner.
@@estebanserrano1303 Sounds good. You won't regret getting into auto mechanics. It's a great skill to learn and share.
Went I put a 3" lift on the front spring shock, should loosen the control arm for bunchings,
Yes, not a bad idea. Loosen the bolt/nut and when the vehicle is back on the ground with the weight on the tires, torque the UCA bolt/nut to spec.
I picked up some polyurethane bushings for my 96 tacoma and was wondering for some insight about if they are a bad choice for my truck?
They're fine. Lots of people use polyurethane bushings for control arms.
Tim, thanks for all the hard work and dedication you've put into these videos.
I see the link to the bearing splitter you provided but was curious what the span is on that splitter you used. I have access to some splitters but would like to have an idea beforehand as to which one I would need.
Thanks
I'm stuck at work for a couple days so I can't take any measurements for you right away.
@@TimmyTheToolman No worries. Whenever you get to it. Thanks for the quick reply!
Tim, did you get a chance to check that splitter out for the span? Also which one did you buy? Amazon has a 5 and a 7 ton splitter. I'd rather not but the whole kit for one job especially since I have the access to a set. Thanks
@@hidjet I used the 7 ton splitter. It's a big bearing splitter. .www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BHVZ5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the great videos! I’m gradually making my way through all of these. One question, my local auto parts store rents a kit called an upper control arm bushing service kit. It’s essentially a C press with a bunch of sleeves. Did you not use something like that simply because it’s easier using the press? Thanks!
I used what I have in my tool arsenal. I'm not familiar with the kit you're referring to.
Tim, what are the symptoms why replacing the upper control bushing? I have a 2004 tundra 4.7
You would be feeling slop in your steering or maybe a clunk in the front end when coming to a stop or accelerating from a stop.
Saw you on saratoga avenue! Just subbed
Right on. I took my mom for a hike at Castle Rock for Mother's Day. Do you know about the party we are having at my place next Saturday?
@@TimmyTheToolman yes!!!
I'm guess if the bolt head was installed from the front you will have to cut them out?
I don't understand your question.
Ouch at 15:05. You make me laugh 😂
It sounds like you have a similar sense of humor.
Does Whiteline make a bushing kit for the upper the upper control arm? I can't find one listed anywhere which makes me wonder if the lower control arm bushings also fit the upper controls arm. Do you know if the Whiteline W53377A bushing kit for the lower control arm also fit the upper control arm? If it does why not use it instead of the OEM rubber bushings? Why do you recommend the OEM rubber bushings over polyurethane bushings for the upper control arm?
Whiteline does not make poly bushings for the upper control arms. The W53377A bushings will not work for the upper control arms. I think there are other companies that do make them for this application but I remember that they are from companies I wouldn't buy from because they make cheap aftermarket parts. So, the reason why we only suggest OEM rubber bushings is it's the best option available.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply. Makes sense to me. Thank you.
@@TimmyTheToolman FYI, I just receives a response back from Summit and they say that Nolothane makes polyurethane bushings for the upper control arms. See www.summitracing.com/parts/nlt-rev042-0058 for the specific part they recommend. I'm not sure if you are aware of this. I think Nolothane makes a product that is of the same level of quality as Energy Suspension and Whiteline. Would you agree with this?
@@marksimcoe4105 Hey Mark, I"m not familiar with Nolothane. Haven't heard anyone on Toyota forums referencing their name. So, I don't know what kind of quality bushings they make. Thanks for sharing this information though.
Whiteline now makes front upper control arm bushings for the 3rd Gen 4Runner. The part number and link to the Whiteline page is as follows: @@TimmyTheToolman www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W53529 The part number is W53529. Looks like it might be a little hard to get but, they do make them now.
Wow I bent a pipe wrench trying to twist those bushings out of the upper control arm. The press is critical here. I heated mine and they were frozen.
Yeah, the press is a nice tool to have when dealing with control arm bushings. I usually use heat to loosen the bond of the bushing sleeve from the control arm and then press it out. This was one of the few times I didn't heat the arms to get the bushings out.
Great video Tim. I want to replace the upper bushings on my 2003 tacoma 4wd, by with a manual transmission. Will the part number you gave work on my vehicle. Toyota says the bushings are not serviceable. Thanks
They should be the same but I'd feel better if you were able to confirm this at a dealership or online from a Toyota parts seller website. That's weird Toyota says they're not serviceable. They're obviously serviceable because they sell replacement bushings. Do your UCAs look identical to the ones on the 4runner? I'm assuming they do because the front suspension for the 1st Gen Tacoma and 3rd Gen 4runner are pretty much identical.
RUclips never gave me the right video
Was our video the right video?
When you pop the UBJ out of the UCA at around the 4 minute mark would you be able to press out the UBJ at that time? Looks like a lot of room. Thanks for all your vids!
It's tight to get in there with the balljoint press but people have done it. The main issue isn't being able to get the press in there but it's the fact that a lot of force needs to be applied to the balljoint spindle and the knuckle isn't secure. With the knuckle able to move around, it's not easy to apply force to the balljoint press to get the balljoint out of the knuckle. This is why I prefer to just remove the knuckle off the rig so I can secure it in my bench vice and then the press work is easy.
@@TimmyTheToolman Gotcha. Well hey appreciate all your vids! Looking forward to the next one.
I finally managed to remove the entire bushing from all my UCA and am now having issues pressing the new ones in. In your video they went in about 1/3 of the way with no issue, but mine will barely go. I froze the bushings, torched the UCA and added anti seize. I got them set up using a large C clamp and receiving cups but they are not wanting to move. Should I just crank on them hoping they'll pop in or is there something I'm overlooking? The UCAs are OEM as well as the bushings.
I don't know why they fitting that tight on your UCAs. Did you get the OEM bushings from a reputable Toyota parts seller or was this maybe an Ebay seller?
@@TimmyTheToolman I got OEM from a reputable dealer. But I finally got them to move, just needed to use the sander on a Dremel and made sure they were clean. They were still stubborn but got them in. Just a few millimeters and they'll be ready to roll.
@@jeffluker1895 Good to find out you got them installed.
very cool icon
BLACKANDYELLOWGARAGE I take it you're talking about the custom "Tim" icon Sean designed? He made it based off of the Toyota "TEQ" logo. I agree that it's pretty cool.
Hello there, I hope you’re well during this time. I just bought a 2006 Tundra with an 8” Rough Country leveling kit. I believe the previous owner kept the other stock suspension parts. Are you aware of an 8” lift kit for 06 Tundra?
I'm not aware of an 8 inch lift kit for you rig. That's a pretty crazy high lift.
Update: This last time I say that the bushing break again, and it's not true. I assume that for the squeaky sound -as its in the past-, but when I see and test moving the steering wheel the sound was from lower bushing now!.
I Appologize for this.
So far the upper bushings appear in good condition.
And I gess that the previus time be damage because the arms do not "rested" in load position.
Thanks
Good to hear you figured out what the culprit was and why the previous bushings failed. Thanks for getting back to us and sharing this.
just tried it today. failed miserably. because i live in the rust belt, when i pressed one of a bushing, control arm hole got cracked in half as the bushing came out. Now i need to wait a week or so to get new control arms. I hate rust 😠
That's a bummer Stephen. I feel for you guys in the rust belts of the country.
How would you use a pry bar to check the condition of the bushings? What would you pry against?
You just have to see if you can capture the control arm with a long pry bar and hook the end up something solid like the frame to flex it and looking for abnormal play in the bushings.
Timmy, thanks for another great video. Que what would you suggest for bushings both sides, upper & lower. 94 Toyota v6 4x4 P/U
Hey Gary, glad you like the video. OEM is always a good choice for your rig but if you could find a more affordable aftermarket option like a poly bushing set that would be good as well. I don't know if any manufacturers make aftermarket bushings for the control arms of your pickup. You'll just have to do a search and maybe consult a Toyota forum to ask others if there's aftermarket bushing options.
Is it good to replace both at the same time?
Yes. If one side is bad, the other ones will be worn out as well.
When having 4WD Toyota FJ Cruiser 2" Front Lift Kit with Diff Drop , what is the spacer size 1" or 2" ????
do you advise to add sway bar relocation ??
TIMMY! I have a 2WD third GEN 4runner. Planning on doing the Bilstein 511/OME coil lift. DO I HAVE TO DO MY UCA?? Looking at the SPC. Not planning on rock crawling, heavy off roading. Just light stuff, mostly using as a camping rig. Is it really worth the extra $600+ for new UCA? Would love your advice, thanks a lot!
Hey Josh, don't waste money on aftermarket UCAs. You don't need them for how you intend on using your rig.
Clunking... still no answer ... using the Chassisear I've listened to upper and lower control arms, front spring, front shock, engine mounts, transmission mount, body mounts, sway bar, and outer tie rod. I replaced the steering rack bushings. The shocks and top hat are new. LBJs are new and OEM... I get a clunking from the front of the vehicle as I travel slowly on uneven pavement and if I jerk the wheel. 2001 base model rwd Tundra. Is there anything else I could listen to?
johncpen2000 inner tie rod, steering rack guide bushing, lower control arm bushing, or something else that simply might be loose... end links? Or steering racking bushings?
Would you recommend polyurethane bushings in this application?
Sure, but it depends on the manufacturer. Who makes them for the upper control arms?
@@TimmyTheToolman Daystar, Energy Suspension... For a 2001 Tundra
@@johncpen2000 It might work out ok, but I've found Energy Suspension bushings for control arms not the greatest because of the extra work required. I'm guessing they just replace the rubber portion with poly and you have to burn out the old rubber and maybe reuse the washer portion of each bushing too. If they were more like Whitleine lower control arm bushing that are basically an OEM replacement style with the metal sleeve I'd say go for it. I guess it depends how much you want to screw with the ES poly bushings. If it were me, I'd just spend the extra money for the OEM Toyota bushing replacements.
Reckon you could get these out with a C press or just the jack and some sockets?
I do think a c-press could take the place of the hydraulic press if you utilized the bearing splitter and press sleeve / plate on one side and used the socket on the other side to drive the bushing into the press sleeve. Obviously it's going to be much more of a physical workout doing it this way and you'd no doubt would want to employ some heat to the arm with a butane torch to help separate the bushing from the arm.
A bottle jack wouldn't work because the arms are too narrow. I don't know of any bottle jack that could fit between those arms.
Have worn out bushings like this ever caused a clunking sound in your experience?
johncpen2000 yes they can cause a clunk for sure.
Thank you guys for all your hard work making these videos they are very appreciated. would the upper control arm bushing part number be the same for the tacoma? on Toyota's website it says it does not fit Tacoma but I am 99% sure it is the same part? do you guys have any ideas?
Thanks,
I'm 99% sure too but who knows. I know the steering knuckles are identical and the LCAs are almost identical other than they have a different mount for the sway bar end links. I'd say you're pretty safe buying the ones we list in the video description.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks! you guys are the best. im probably gonna go for it just wanted to at least hear it from someone else hahah.
@@SteezerZimmer You're very welcome. Good luck with the job.
@@SteezerZimmer Did you ever do this replacement? What part number did you use?
@@zachwatson5291 I did, I ended up using the part number that Timmy lists.
teacher because you inserted the cap all the way in I see you left a small space, can you explain I watched your video but I barely understand English I'm sorry
We discussed it in the video. If you bottom out the bushing in the control arm, then the control arm won't fit onto the frame. You can't insert the bushings completely into the control arm.
No alignment needed?
Nope, no alignment needed Rob. The only way you'd need an alignment after this job is if the previous alignment was performed when the bushings were wasted and had lots of play. The upper control arms unlike the lower control arms have no adjustment to them so your alignment shouldn't be affected.
Things like this, upper or lower balljoint replacements, replacement of stock struts or springs shouldn't affect the alignment. When you lift the rig, you need an alignment afterward. When you replace lower control arm bushings, even if you marked the cam sleeve positions, it's a good idea to get an alignment. Replacing inner or outer tie rods, it's a good idea to get an alignment.
Hey Tim, Any recommendation for front upper control arm kits for a 2002 tacoma double cab with off road package? I don't have a press so I'm trying to go the easy route. I would consider to buy a press if my current 20 year old control arms are still good. How can I tell?
Thanks
As long as the metal of the arms isn't deteriorated from corrosion, they're still good. I wouldn't buy new arms just because bushings are bad. A Harbor Freight 20 ton press comes in handy for lots of jobs. If you like doing your own automotive work, I'd get the press.
Timmy I’m getting a really bad up and down shack in my steering wheel when I apply the brakes. Bead new rotors and pads checked my guide pins. Was thinking steering rack or ball joints? Please help
So you're saying getting an "up and down" shake in your steering wheel? I'm guessing you're meaning and side to side shake. Up and down would be impossible unless somehow your steering shaft and linkage is completely loose. The cause could still be the brakes if the wheels weren't tightened properly causing the rotors to not be sitting true. It could be worn out control arm bushings, worn out tie rods, maybe the steering rack.
I'd start by loosening the lug nuts on the front wheels and tightening them in a crossing or star pattern slowly bringing them up to a torque spec of 85 foot pounds. Then do some inspecting of your front end components looking for anything obvious like torn and leaking tie rod or balljoint boots. Get a pry bar and see if you can detect abnormal play in your upper and lower control arm bushings.
My guess is it's related to the brakes. If there's a shop nearby that resurfaces rotors, maybe have them check the runout to see if they are true.
Hi I'm looking to do this job later this month. Do the OEM UCA Bushings (#48632-35080) come as singles, or packs of two? Need to know how many to order. Thanks so much for these fantastic videos! I'm doing a whole redo on the front end (UBJ, LBJ, bushings for UCA and LCA, and new inner/outer tie rods!), so your channel is a godsend!! Thank you!
Hey Steven, the bushings come as singles. Great to hear you're making good use of our videos. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy! Also, this is a bit of a shot in the dark, but would you happen to know if that bushing (part #48632-35080) would fit in a 1998 Tacoma SR5 3.4L 4x4? I can find the parts, but all the Toyota sites are saying the fitment isn't correct given my VIN, and I can't find the equivalent part number for my Tacoma (they only sell the entire UCA). Should I try anyways, or just go with aftermarket bushings from Energy Suspension?
@@stevenwang4125 The suspension on the 1st Gen Tacoma is pretty much indentical to the 3rd Gen 4runner but they will quite often have different part numbers for the same part. Here's a link to the Camelback Toyota site: parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/1998/Toyota/Tacoma/SR5/?siteid=214329&vehicleid=84925&diagram=8510185 Take a look at item #9. Part number #4863235070
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks so much, sir! Looking to do the work this weekend, so if you notice a sudden surge in your views, you'll know why! ;)
@@stevenwang4125 You're welcome Steven. Good luck with the job.
Timmy, need to pick your mind. I did this job last fall. I just determined that the upper control arm (UCA) is shifting. The bushings appear to have already gone bad. They were OEM, purchased from Camelback. I had a shop look at it to make sure the UCA bolts running through the bushings were tight. No issue there. I torque everything to spec. Is there any chance that one could push the bushings in too far thus creating the loose fit? What would you recommend? I'm thinking about adding washers to minimize the gaps. Or would you recommend just buying an entire UCA? I had to use heat to remove them initially. Wondering if that did something.
When we shot the video, we noticed that Toyota didn't fully bottom out the bushings into the arm. They left a little bit of gap between the sleeve of the bushing and the arm. What we determined is this put a lateral load on the bushing when the bolt was tightened because the sleeve of the bushing needed to push inboard a bit to meet up with the frame member. Jordan and I thought about this and figured this wasn't something that was good. Why would you want a load on the bushing in it's static state? So, we pushed one bushing all the way in and left the other out around 1mm and that made a tight fit of the bushing sleeve with the frame member so when the bolt was tightened, it wouldn't be pushing the bushing inboard putting a lateral load on it.
So, to answer your question, if you fully pressed in both bushings, you would have a hard time fitting the control arm onto the frame. If you leave the bushings out too far, this will put that lateral load on the bushing like it came from the factory and would probably cause the bushings to fail prematurely.
One thing that would definitely accelerate the demise of the bushings is tightening the control arm bolt when the arm isn't in it's neutral state, meaning the wheels are on the ground and the weight of the vehicle is fully supported by the wheels. If you tightened them while the vehicle was still raised in the air on the jack stands, when you lower the rig to the ground, the bushings are in a bound state the whole time. The bushings should only be a bound state as the suspension is cycling up and down. The bushings should not have torsional forces applied to them when the vehicle is at rest. I hope that makes sense.
@@TimmyTheToolman yup! makes perfect sense. i clearly pressed the bushings all the way in until their lip was against the UCA. Oddly, I appear to have done it on both sides, but only the passenger side is shifting. i actually just tightened the UCA bolt while the tires were off the ground. i'm guessing it's a bit over torqued, but the shifting has pretty much subsided. will keep an eye on it. thx again Timmy! you da man!
Hey Toyota Tool Man,
Can I use the Bottle Jack Method to remove the Upper Control Arm bushings the same way you removed the Lower Control Arm bushings?
No, the bottle jack won't work for this application unless you can find a very tiny bottle jack that would fit between them. Also, the UCAs aren't as beefy as the LCAs so even if you could fit a bottle jack between them, you'd have to be very careful not to bend the arms out from the force and destroy them.
Timmy The Toolman: Muchas Gracias
@@snoopdisnoop De Nada.
On the left side of my rig, the fender is bent in (from an accident) and it blocks the bolt of the control arm from getting out. What should I do to fix this?
Get a big pry bar or similar tool and wedge it between the bolt head and fender and start prying. This metal isn't that thick so you'll be able to pry it away enough to clear the bolt.
How much does it cost for a new control arm with bushings ? Seems buying the bushings separately may not save much $
$175/each online pricing, total cost $350. Bushings run $30/each, 2 per side (4 total), total cost $120. $230 savings. I guess it depends what your time is worth and if you have the right tools to do the bushing replacement. All the tools we used in this video to do the bushing swap have been used for many other jobs so it's not like the tools are for a single use and not worth the investment.
@@TimmyTheToolman If you don't have any of those tools can you rent the tools needed to remove the bushings? Seems you at least need a work bench and vice, maybe a torch, etc.
@@RobertMOdell You can't rent a press or that press sleeve kit and that's what we use in this video. I think you can rent bearing splitters though. Could you do it on a bench vice using a torch and other tools? Maybe.
For the upper ball joint nut, do I need to have the weight of the vehicle on the ground before torching it to spec or is that for the UCA bolts only?
It's only for the UCA bolt. You can torque the castle nut for the UBJ with the wheel in the air. The reason you want the weight of the vehicle on the tire before tightening the UCA bolt is you don't want to have the bushing in a bind when it's just sitting there parked in a neutral position. If you did, this would degrade the bushing very fast because it would be under tension most of the time.
Hey tim. Is it 30$ per bushing or is it 30$ for a pair of OEM bushings from camelback Toyota?
$30 per bushing. $60 for a pair. The bushings are side specific, right and left bushings per arm. Get on the Camelback Toyota website and check it out.
Do I need to lower the truck to torch it to spec after installing lower control arm bushings too?
Yes, that's the best practice. You want to torque control arms in their neutral position so the bushings aren't bound up just sitting there with the vehicle parked and the suspension not cycling up and down.
Any guesses on whether the 12 ton press would have been adequate?
The 12 ton press could handle this.
What size is the socket that you use at tithe bottom to remove. Thanks.
We used a 27mm impact socket. We said this in the video so I guess you missed it.
I are frustrated. The first time did this change (upper arms bushing) I Think was in 2012 and everything was ok, lasting 6-7 years (Febest). But now:
1. 2018 mechanic worked it:~one min! and totally break
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Mitzael Wtges I don’t know why your bushings would fail so fast if you’re doing the installation properly and not over-greasing them making the bushings bulge out.
Do you recommend an alignment check afterwards?
johncpen2000 Nope, no alignment needed. The only way you'd need an alignment after this job is if the previous alignment was performed when the bushings were wasted and had lots of play. The upper control arms unlike the lower control arms have no adjustment to them so your alignment shouldn't be affected.
Things like this, upper or lower balljoint replacements, replacement of stock struts or springs shouldn't affect the alignment. When you lift the rig, you need an alignment afterward. When you replace lower control arm bushings, even if you marked the cam sleeve positions, it's a good idea to get an alignment. Replacing inner or outer tie rods, it's a good idea to get an alignment.
Running into an issue on my 4th gen trying to remove the long bolt. Will removing the ac line from the clip also work on my model?
Never mind, it worked exactly the same! Thank you so much! I was getting frustrated.
@@KeyGilz No worries Keith. Glad you figured it out. Happy Wrenching!
My toyota tacoma make noise when it's running going thru the dips. What is going on can't figure out.
It could be a control arm bushing. It could be your sway bar. It could be ball joints. It could be a lot of things. You need to start investigating. I can't diagnose a noise you're hearing while you're driving over the internet.
I can hear it while I am driving on street it's coming from driver side
Even I hear it pushing down from front driver side
@@papercrazy61986 Have someone cycle the suspension for you while you're looking under the rig trying to pinpoint the source of the noise.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you
Would you happen to know the part number for the uca bolt? I can't find one and I believe mine may be slightly bent.
We believe it is 90105-14105 if you have a 3rd gen
@@TimmyTheToolman oh I'm sorry I have a first gen Tundra SR5 4x4 4.7L. But looks just like the same bolt and suspension?
Thanks so much man. I'm gonna go on a limb and say that they are the same bolt, so I greatly appreciate the speedy response. One more question, what would cause shaking coming from middle of 60/40 split bench seat? It always happens at 45-50mph no matter the situation, accelerating, deaccelerating, coasting, braking, all driving conditions no matter what. Also seems to come and go when on the interstate going 65-73mph. I have a new Powertrain Industries prebalanced 2 piece rear driveshaft with new serviceable double carbon. ( had to buy new shaft had a nightmare with stock double cardon rebuild) Truck has always done it from day one and have been trying to chase it down but all the parts I've replaced were soon to be. The new driveshaft came with the new center support bearing already installed so I am definitely happy with the new rear 2 piece. Could it be a bent rim? Would it cause it at different speeds?
@@garybrady7245 I was going to say something with the drivetrain but it sounds like you addressed it with the new driveshafts. I would certainly check your wheel balancing.
Hey Tim, My clutch is going out on my truck !! I wanted to do a video with you replacing my clutch ! I don't know any other way to get a hold of you except by RUclips !! I would like to talk to you by phone if you're ok with that ??
William Goble Email me your phone number. mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
can i use this same technique to replace the boot?
What boot?
Upper ball joint
@@elhiezenberg8393 All you would have to do to replace the boot is break free the upper balljoint from the upper control arm with a puller. You don't have to remove the UCA.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks timmy
what torque wrench do you use? do you recommend it? I'm in the market for my first one
Hey Zach, for most of my life I didn't own a torque wrench but now I own 3 and use them all. They are all made by CDI which is made by Snap-On. Here's the ones I own:
www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL4H80/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526057994&sr=1-2&keywords=cdi%2Btorque%2Bwrench&th=1
www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL2J7G/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526057994&sr=1-2&keywords=cdi%2Btorque%2Bwrench&th=1
www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B001VXRYG8/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526057994&sr=1-2&keywords=cdi%2Btorque%2Bwrench&th=1
If it were me, I'd probably buy the 1/2" drive one first so I can properly torque some of the bigger fasteners on a vehicle. The 3/8" drive wrench that goes up to 100 foot pounds is my choice when there's limited space for the bigger 1/2 drive wrench and I don't need to exceed 100 foot pounds. The inch pound one is handy for the lower spec applications like the valve cover gasket bolts. If you going to get heavy into wrenching on vehicles, I'd recommend eventually buying all 3. With that said, If you understand mechanical advantage and have the common sense to adjust the force you use based off the size of the fastener, you can get away without using a torque wrench in my opinion unless you doing things like tightening down head bolts and other things of that nature that the torque value is crucial to follow.
Timmy The Toolman oof those are pretty expensive. There are many other brands with equally good reviews and about 1/3 the price. Any reason why I shouldn’t go with one from a brand like Tektron? I know snap-on’s reputation is amazing but man that’s an expensive wrench
Hey Zach, at the time I was searching for a torque wrench, the CDI ones caught my eye because the reviews were really good. If you found ones, like from Tekton, that get good reviews and are much more affordable, go for it. I base my tool purchases off reviews and recommendations from people I trust. I have bought some Tekton tools and they seem pretty good to me.
Timmy The Toolman sounds good thanks. Totally separate question. I am removing the rear sway bar links and cannot get the lower nut off. The nut is on one side and the other side is the ball joint, so when you turn the nut it just spins the ball inside the joint. Any guidance on how to remove?
There should be an allen head on the end of that bolt so you can hold it firm while you loosen the nut. Clean up the end of the bolt stud and you'll see it. I think it's either a 5mm or 6mm.
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GOOD!
THANKS!
How do l get an invite to the BBQ? I have a first gen and fifth gen 4runner
You just sign up when we make the announcement on our channel. There will be a Google Doc to let everyone know what you'll be bringing to the party since it's a pot luck. We provide the main course and everyone else brings something to share. So stay tuned.
@@TimmyTheToolman Awesome thank you. Look forward to it.
@@hollyn9456 You will have to be virus free through. We will have virus test kits and you'll have to pass the test before we let you enter. Just kidding.
@@TimmyTheToolman Lol. No problem.
Maybe just buy a whole new arm instead.
You could but it's more money. This might be the best option for those that don't own a press and don't want to buy one.
I'd say only if you're putting an aftermarket UCA to gain caster angle with a lift. A new stock UCA is just a waste of money for just the new bushings.