How to tell when you have perfect bottom layer exposure for resin 3d prints

Super short video showing what perfect bottom exposure looks like!
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[@aaronbono4688]

I've got the wham bam flexible plate add on and I love it. I do not have to use a spatula anymore and the models just pop off. I even print directly on the plate with no support for things like bases. Sure I have to file off a brim a little bit but it's a lot easier than cleaning up a bunch of support damage or deal with the warping because there was not sufficient support.

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

Check out the REEF method. Basically side-steps elephant’s foot.

[@chucklamb3496]

That’s the problem I’m having right now, glad you’re back!

[@mguarin912]

Short and to the point. Subbed. 😊

[@reytheist]

great seeing post content regularly, greg!

[@logic02004]

easy to understand, concise and to the point. Could you make something similar about how to avoid bumps after removing supports?

[@cosmickatamari]

literally came here for that

[@josephulbrich7523]

Man, I like you so much. What a cool guy you are, and with great SLA printing tips! What a combination!

[@krzysztofmathews738]

Great! Clear and helpful. Thank you.

[@shaymattern5982]

Been looking for answers for this! Thank you!

[@arbitScaleModels]

I use a plastic razor for car windows. works great and no damage.

[@allanlarsen3261]

You can also invest in a flex plate for your build plate. That's what I did.. It is just a magnetic plate you stick on your build plate. When the print is done, you simply take the flex plate of the build plate, bend it slightly, and the print will pop off on its own. I chose the flexi plate as it allows me to keep the exposure on the bottom layers a bit higher, making sure the build do not come off for any reason. That way I know the build will stick, not matter the size.
When washing the print, I can just stick the flexi plate with the prints into the IPA, and not the entire build plate.
Of course. the flexi plate cost a small amount of of money, and require you to re-level your build plate, but it has made my printing so much easier :-)

[@MagosMirka]

How do you know someone uses a flexplate for their printer? Don't worry, they'll tell you about it!
Just a friendly jest ;)

[@allanlarsen3261]

@@MagosMirka A good idea is a good idea 🙂

[@sdghtjsdcgs]

@@MagosMirka They're like vegans, just more annoying.

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

@@sdghtjsdcgs not possible. 😂

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

@@allanlarsen3261 even if you use a flex plate you can still be overexposing your bottom layers which more than just wasting time, it’ll burn out your screen faster. So, get those bottom exposures down as low as possible.

[@adamdahlberg4403]

LOL i should have known that is what's wrong with my prints. Thanks for the reminder.

[@sawyer6551]

I have heard plenty of people say that your bottom layer exposure time should be 10x your normal layer exposure time. Do you think this is a good rule of thumb or too much? Of course once you have printed things you can adjust it until you get something like you showed.

[@wizkidme]

great vid. audio mix feels low for some reason

[@Abedeuss]

Yeah, I raised my exposure to 45 because I had one failure with printing... toned down to 40 today, hopefully the removal will be easier.

[@JorenMathews]

That seems extremely high. I use in the 8-10s range.

[@conanlucas6183]

Do you have a discord or anything? Trying to find help with my Saturn. I'm not new to printing but can't for the life of me work out what's wrong (bottom layers are perfect btw)

[@codyfahnestock4791]

How do I fix complete layer separation? My last 4 prints have layer separation so bad each print is covered in hair thin cured resin and bad, multiple layers of it. Been chasing exposure settings for months with no advancements, and I can’t keep spending upwards of $300 a month just to get $5 worth of junk. Please help

[@michaelhintzmikesminiature1812]

👍👍👍👍

[@Wayo.]

I think you can make this into a youtube short. I hear thats the "it" thing to do now.

[@Hellspawnxxx]

Here's a little tip I learned, if you do find your prints are sticking to much and you are having trouble scrapping it from the build plate. Just run the build plate under hot water and the area where the support base contacts the build plate for a few seconds and then they will pop off in one piece very easily.

[@86abaile]

Please don't rinse uncured prints or resin contaminated fluids down the drain, that's incredibly irresponsible. As in the video, if you're having a hard time removing prints from the build plate, reduce the exposure time, if that creates adhesion problems, then you need to increase the delay time before exposure. I'f you have your delay times set correctly, bottom layer exposure times shouldn't be any more than 3 or 4 times the normal exposure time.

[@2snowcat22]

@@86abaile You can clean the excess resin off of the top of the plate and only run the water over the top of the buildplate, the entire buildplate warms after a few seconds and no resin gets wet or washed away. During winter, I print in a heated enclosure in my garage, but when the temp below 65ish, the prints are very difficult to remove without using this method (they come off fine if the garage is above 75 degrees).

[@Hellspawnxxx]

@@86abaile BLAH BLAH BLAH Like you don't use bleach, soap, and dozens of other worse chemicals that end up going down the drain. What do you do when you get a clog in the drain pray it away hahaha no you use TOXIC ACID drain rinse.

[@user-ee9cz6mc1x]

Figured this out the hard way. Bleeding knuckles