WRB Showdown: ZIP System vs. ForceField WRB vs. Tyvek Housewrap & More with Inventor Landus Bennet
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2023
- Landus Bennet (WatsonSprings.com) did the famous 'Hurricane Test' on our home during construction ( • Hurricane Test for Bad... ), and this time we're visiting his lab at Watson Springs to compare the performance of the Weather Resistant Barriers (WRBs) on the market today. We discuss Huber ZIP System, Georgia-Pacific ForceField, LP WeatherLogic, DuPont Tyvek, Typar and other housewraps, and full adhesive membranes like ProClima AdHero and Henry BlueSkin, along with fluid applied WRBs.
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I really appreciate videos like this. I especially like the focus on ordinary people trying to build extraordinary (extraordinarily efficient!) homes. Risinger has slowly gone with more and more expensive, and stupidly large, homes. More nerding out is better than more square footage.
You're right, depending on the clientele one pursues. Check out Scott True Builds for more along your (our) way of thinking. His focus is on a down to earth style of efficient building.
No shade on risinger for having high end clientele to seek a high performance home. I set tile in very expensive homes in a country club development and they were absolute cracker boxes, and I’ve built ground up for a GC who took on high performance 350K 1500ft2 homes and multimillion 5K fts post and beam cabin style lakefront on Tahoe- take the work when you can get it
Yeah I could listen to Landus jaw for a day or 2 Wise dudes sharing knowledge 💪🏾
Great video. Really nice to hear Landus' perspectives. So very practical and down-to-earth..
👍🏽
I was wondering about what happens at the penetration of cladding fasteners. High quality information as always 👊
We built a new home last year and after doing a lot of research, we landed on this in zone 6a: Zip-R12 sheathing and a 10mm plastic mesh rainscreen over 2x4 studs, which was filled with 3" of closed cell spray foam. That gave us R-30 walls that are airtight with R-12 of that eliminating the thermal bridging of the studs. Our windows and doors fit as if we used 2x6 studs and normal uninsulated sheathing. We would have had R-30 walls by just foaming 2x6 stud cavities to 5" but by using Zip-R12 sheathing, we covered about 925 sq. ft. of 2x4 studs which gave our studs a R-15 value rather than R-5 if using 2x6 studs and normal sheathing. We have a one story home, so 2x4 construction was not a problem.
I think that Zip-R is the best solution for exterior insulation due to simplicity for the framers, without the need for installing normal sheathing, window bucks, furring strips over exposed XPS for siding attachment and a WRB. This saves labor costs and eliminates the possibility that the framers or siders will screw something up to prevent water and air infiltration with the many different steps needed to complete the XPS over sheathing assembly.
I wanted to put mineral wool between the stud cavities but my contractor said closed cell would do a better job to stiffen the walls from shear forces and almost guarantee air sealing vs. batts. Our blower door test was 75% lower than the number needed for passing the test. Mineral wool would have done a better job on outside noise reduction but in reality, most outside noise comes through our large double window panes.
We had closed cell foam insulation installed in our previous home during a complete renovation with zero issues. The walls stoped creaking when really windy as they did before with fiberglass insulation in a 50 year old home. You're not a fan of closed cell foam, if I remember right, but I think it's great.
We live in a high radon area and with our radon blower vent from under basement slab from our piped sump pit, our readings are 0.35 pCl/L, which is very low.
As far as our overall exterior wall assembly, I wouldn't change a thing.
Sounds like a solid well insulated build. However, I think your contractor sold you a bag of beans saying the insulation type will contribute anything significant to “stiffening” your walls. The zip panel’s OSB is the material credited with mitigating shear. Your insulation type does not get credited for any shear value which is why plans get approved with an R-value rather than an insulation type.
Good detail, thanks for taking the time to post this all.
Very informative. Looking to build next year and finalizing decisions. You provided a lot of great information.
Very good overview instruction. I am finishing my parents house renovation upgrading that my dad started but he got ill with different issues and just couldn't do much anymore, so I've inhereted 500 building projects my dad had going. Lol
Anyway, I'm trying to study all the different ways to go with completely stripping old cedar siding off and to frame and insulating and doing sheathing where on their old 1930s house wasn't built like that and I'm trying to upgrade and weatherproof the last couple walls left to finish.
Keep it up my friend
Great overview and coverage of common questions which are surpirsingly difficult to find answers to ! Thank you !
i learnt a few new things in that. very much appreciated.
Wow, Landus knows his stuff; he is super informative. Great video!
Thx Ben, agreed
@@HomePerformancereally want to see this in terms of shipping containers...
@@HomePerformance does using foam board layers TRAP moisture?
@1truthseeking8 it can
Great content as usual!
Great video Corbett. The perm difference between Zip and Forcefield is a great point and also that a wall is a lower risk area than a roof. I used Forcefield on a house I just built and decided I didn't like it because of the secondary manufacturing process. This video has me rethinking that though.
So if I do a waterproof wrap with insulation integrated under hardie board I shouldn’t put foam in my walls? I’m in Texas and I’m worried about condensation. Also I’m in a flood zone so was thinking fema flood insurance would prefer the foam.
How do these systems hold up in 10-20 years? How permeable are either of these? Isn't this a big issue for colder climates where condensation can build in the winter with no ability to extract that moisture?
I have been seeing tesla solar roof installs that require ice and water shield over the whole roof prior to solar shingle install. if there is closed cell spray foam under the sheathing like in Matt Risingers latest video, will that cause moisture trapping issues? I cant believe that wasnt considered during install.
Hope all is well with you and your family.
One item I would like to add that often gets left out about R value of fibrous insulation, whether it be fiber glass or mineral wool or anything else, to achieve the real R value it must be installed perfect and with 0 air movement. That is the condition in which it is in when the R value is addressed to it.
Rarely is either achieved when all is said and done. The value also drops significantly when they are not accomplished.
Spray Jones has a great video on this topic with the research and paper work on it.
Grace and Peace
Slick
here, here for 'felt paper' - 18 minutes in...3' rolls, hammer tacker, lap your edges. Put on many a roll before siding with cedar, up here in the Pacific Northwest.
I demo a lot of old exterior walls that are bone dry, just felt and cedar/vinyl siding. (North Coast BC). Im not convinced by these air tight systems, though I’m trying to be open minded lol.
I like the taping system better on the Zip over GP. But maybe I can do Zip on roof and GP on my walls. Is there a better tape for the GP?
I'm currently building with Zip and I like it. But I fully regret using GP's ForceField on my roof. It is extremely slick and dangerous and I've only got a 4/12 pitch. I wish I would have gone with regular OSB for the roof. 5/8 zip was either unavailable or way too expensive.
Thank you for this comment. This is exactly what I came to this video for
No problem. I wound up having to put down roofing underlayment just so the roofers wouldn't slide off the deck. Defeated the whole purpose of why I used this product to begin with.
Was it rated for roofs? It wasn’t when we built.
Yes.
Can you install wrap or tyvek over ZIP panels? As an extra barrier… Thoughts?
GREAT information! This and the previous video have completely convinced me to go 2.0 on my Zip install. I’m one of those crazy DIY home builders, about 70% through framing my place now. Zip is expensive, but I’m hoping for an extremely tight build and for someone like me it seemed one of the easier routes to get there.
Good work Speeder
Awesome do you have a build page!?
@@averageliving4Life I have lost the understanding of the concept of “free time”, lol. As much as I think it would be cool to share my experiences, I just don’t have time.
I'm remodeling a bathroom where I needed to move a window about 2 feet to the right. The exterior wall has 3/4 fiberboard, felt paper, wood lap siding, fan fold insulation and vinyl siding. What is the best way to patch the opening without disassembling the entire wall? The wood siding is not in good condition so I'm thinking 3/4" foam board, 7/16 OSB, felt paper, fan fold and vinyl siding. If this is a good sequence, would ZIP, Force Field or Tyvek be a better choice than OSB?.
Hi, which product would you recommend for the southwest region such as nevada or las Vegas zone 5. Thanks!
Can I use zip tape on force field sheathing products?
When will we see insulated roof panels?
Yes i do have questions?? I am replacing vinyl siding on a 2 story house and i would like to tape the OSB seams, then insulate with pink board or Rock wool, then put the siding on.. What are your suggestions for this job? Thanks so much and Yes I am a super nerd for watching many of your videos!!
Not a builders here but there are fluid applied products for osb.
Amazingly useful video. Makes me wonder, though - so much of this clever engineering is to mitigate the inherent vulnerabilities of wood (water damage, termites, warping, etc) - might moving away from wood completely be where the future really is? Especially since the use of wood to begin with was mostly out of convenience and habit in N. America.
Termites are easily mitigated by using a boric acid solution from a garden pump sprayer. Just mix “cockroach powder”, or 20 mule team borax and spray your studs, rim, eaves, etc. once it is framed. It is non-toxic to human but bugs cannot stand the stuff
Does anyone make an insulated OSB sheathing, like Zip-R, other than Huber?
Great overview of sheathing systems. Landus mentioned having only one air barrier. I am rebuilding my house and we spoke about ERVs. My question is how necessary is the interior vapor control layer like Intello. Plan to monopoly frame the building, use plywood, cover with a WRB like Adhero, continuous insulation w 2” Rockwool board. After all framing and the building is enclosed use Aerobarrier spray. If we can seal to 0.5 ACH then make the decision about Intello. Maybe we need to talk again.
vapor control is predicated on having a need to control vapor. if someone thinks drywall and paint isn't adequate, i think they're either running a natatorium in the house or the equivalent.
The nice thing about Intello is that it's permeability is variable. Great product for passive house construction.
@@landusbennett7123 i think you're missing the point. 92ish% of houses in climate zones 6 and below don't need an additional vapor retarder when using drywall and [most] paints. you're falling for marketing.
If you're in the North your vapor barrier needs to be on the inside. If you're in the South it needs to be on the outside. North = OSB & Tyvek. South = ZIP system.
Great video! Question, according to Huber you do not need to seal overdriven nails unless they penetrate 50% or more through the panel. I do not agree with this but as an inspector can only call out what I can justify with info from the manufacturer. I still let my clients know my concerns but would love to know yours and Landus' view. Keep the videos coming!
Hey Reeves- check out the previous vid with Landus all about overdriven nails
reeves29456- I'm glad to hear that inspectors are concerned as they should be. The answer to the issue around nail penetrations is it depends. Cheap way out I know. With some claddings, there will not be a measurable amount of water in the field. Around windows and doors it's a different subject. Some claddings are considered reservoir claddings, like brick, in that case, I would recommend sealing the fasteners. Actually, I would cover the integrated WRB with another layer equivalent to grade D felt paper.
@@landusbennett7123 Thank you!
We're looking to create an air and water barrier on the whole exterior of the house. If Grace ice and water shield is acceptable on OSB on the roof, why not cover the entire house and use exterior insulation? If moisture got between the insulation and Grace ice and water shield it wouldn't be able to get to the wood. It self seals every time a nail goes through the OSB and covers small gaps. Obviously interior air will need to be managed, as with any air tight house. I'm guessing there's a good reason I haven't seen it done, but what is it?
We are in the early stages of building and I’m concerned about VOC ratings for the Zip system. Any information on that would be helpful. I want to use a paint on seam sealer and over penetrations like redguard or something similar I’ve used to make bathroom remodels waterproof. Your thoughts are appreciated thanks guys!!
Would you still want something (mesh tape or ?) over seems if using liquid to seal seams? Or am I over thinking it? I have not done a lot, but have always Schluter tape or similar over seams in showers, then RedGuarded over the whole wall for fear that RG alone may fatigue over time. *Worth noting I've only worked on 1920-40s era homes built on minimal footings, which move a lot seasonally here in the South. Thank you!
So, could you do ZIP-R on the outside, plus rockwool as additional internal insulation? That would still be just one WRB, but you'd get the additional thermal insulation. Right?
Yes, you could use that assembly. It's quite common. However, exterior insulation on the outside of your sheeting is better than on the inside of your sheeting. For example, rockwool comfortboard, followed by zip sheeting, followed by rockwool comfortbatt cavity insulation.
The layer change keeps the wood product warmer on the outside of the house, which will reduce the incidence of water condensating on a cold surface.
I am building a house on the east coast on the coast and was interested in the comments regarding the structural strength between OSB and plywood (say Advantech). I was planning to install plywood horizontally covered with a WRB for the greater shear strength. In the video it was commented that OSB was just as strong as plywood installed vertically. How does OSB rate strength wise versus plywood installed horizontally? Thanks,
S Paris - Good luck with your build on the east coast. OSB is stronger than plywood in shear strength. Advantech is a good choice for your area as it does not swell as much as commodity osb. Make sure you use a structural 1 panel. My best advice on the coast is to make sure your WRB (whichever way you go) is installed correctly and the the structure has good drying potential if it gets wet. Pay close attention to windows and doors.
It would have been nice to have a summary of the different products on a chart.
Sounds like you just discovered your next homework assignment, Duncan! Go for it man.
@@HomePerformance 😄
Could you elaborate on the air tightening process for a concrete block home builded in 2007 in Florida.?
In FL you want ZIP system because it provides a air/water barrier on the OUTSIDE. Here in MA that would be totally wrong. Vapor barrier goes on the inside.
Hi Corbett, I believe I heard that having an adhered membrane (I'm using Adhero) as your WRB and then using spray foam directly under the roof deck would be a bad idea because that would be using two vapor barriers. Did I understand that correctly?
Our plan is to wrap the entire house - roof and walls - in Adhero, then to spray foam the entire underside of the roof decking to gain air tightness.
I'm now wondering if I don't need to use spray foam where I don't absolutely need it (in 2x6 rafters). The way we are planning it is for the roof to be spray foamed to code where we have existing 2x6 rafters, then flash/BiB fiberglass in the 2x12 rafters.
But if I'm using Adhero as my air tightness along with spray foam in the rim joists, I could save money by just doing the BiBs in the 2x12s. Would appreciate your thoughts.
Hey Chris- don’t worry, that’s ok. But you’re getting airtightness from the membrane, not the foam. The foam is just the simplest way to insulate the roof. But yes, I'm in favor of less spray foam whenever possible. Vid coming soon about that.
@@HomePerformance I saw the vid! Was really helpful. Thanks Corbett
Put the roof membrane on and dry in the home. I would then run a dehumidifier to make sure everything is dry before spraying the closed cell foam that was you aren’t trapping anything moisture. This is exactly what I am doing as well.
You touched on building in the north (Canada) with zip or other products like it and the use of vapour barriers. Would you say not to use anything on the inside if you have zip on the outside or something else to control the vapour? What product would you use?
I think the best way to build in the north is to put your insulation on the outside of the wall. ZIP R has a product that includes the insulation and a nail base. This will help keep the temperature inside the wall above dew point. There are other continuous insulation companies in Canada like QuickTherm that have loads of experience in your area.
If you are using ZIP you will have to talk to your building department. In Ontario they will require a poly vapour barrier due to code. You end up trapping moisture between the WRB and the poly. Not good. Either just use a latex paint on drywall for an interior permeable vapour barrier or if you want a more air controlled system some of the smart barriers such as SIGA Majrex are a good choice. They allow drying to the inside but prevent moisture entering the wall assembly in the winter. That is what I am using our house now under construction on the North Bruce peninsula ( between Lake Huron and Georgian Bay) I also have exterior insulation. Great video. Thank you! Tough for the average person and for the average builder to keep up with the building science world. I have had to spend a lot of time reading Dr Joe and Matt Risinger to get a start at a handle on it.
👍🏽 keep it up Chris
So if I am building a wall assembly with ZIP R9 a 2x6 wall with Rockwool and Siga Majrex is a good thing? This is what I have planned.
@@knappce Use a smart membrane vapor barrier if code makes you do so. Otherwise, don't use a vapor barrier behind drywall if using Zip-R. Otherwise you will trap moisture in your walls.
I'm curious to know your thoughts on the changes that the World Health Organization has made to their recommendations on how many air exchanges per hour that a building should have in order to be healthy from an airborne virus perspective. How would you modify your building procedures to target those ACH ratings?
Filtration, Brad- the forgotten factor of ventilation. Most performance pros would have you run the ERV at higher rates, but that’s costly and unnecessary.
This was an interesting video, thanks for the information. Out of curiosity, do you know of anyone making a similar integrated WRB sheathing product, but using plywood instead of OSB like ZIP and Forcefield use? I live in the northern Great Lakes region, and between the rain, snow, and repeated freeze/thaw cycles during Spring and Fall, OSB tends not to hold up very well compared to plywood. A few builders I've talked to have told me that they try not to use OSB for anything other than subfloor unless their client truly can't afford the more expensive plywood sheathing because they get fewer callbacks with plywood. I've tried searching myself with no luck, so I thought I'd ask someone more familiar with the space. Thanks for any help you can offer.
You can use plywood and then apply your own fluid applied layer. There are several products available, some mentioned in this video. I don't know of any off the shelf sheeting products, though.
There are no integrated plywood/WRB systems. I tried, but plywood manufactures were not interested. Probably because the plywood turns into a potato chip if not overlayed correctly.
Would like to have heard about liquid applied weather barriers. My concern with Zip is the grade D barrier is very thin and presumably easy to damage, along with over driven nails and the need to perfectly seal the Zip tape, makes the Zip system questionable in my opinion. Of course the liquid WRB is subject to installer capability. I found with Tremco's Enviro-dri that there aren't enough solids in it to give it any stretch at the recommended thickness. Sprayed onto new fir plywood, the plywood dries and has checks that go through the Enviro-dri, providing an opening for water.
Bottom line, there is no silver bullet. Build in layers.
If you live in the South ZIP is great. If you live in the North it is bad. I go into this in my post above. That thin green layer will not breathe. Yes it can be compromised, that's why you get the ZIP caulking and do your seams and nail holes with that, the tape is a waste of money. Also do the top and bottoms of the panels especially where it meets concrete!!!!
@@SciaticaDrumsconfused by your post. I live in New England. All the high performance custom home builders use zip system. The point of zip is to shed water and not allow it to absorb. If you need an air gap between the zip and the siding, there are plenty of products to apply over the zip to allow for air space between the zip and siding to breath of that is a concern.
@@matthewm8021 I wound up using it on my second home after doing more research.
Being up north and having to repair mold issues frequently (at least What I have found) is it hasn’t mattered what you used plywood or OSB but how you build and protect. Right now I’m tearing out plywood that has rotted and molded because there was issues in construction that has created moister BOTH inside and outside (IE: Nothing done right) the sad thing is all of it could have been avoided with not that much more cost or time just better knowledge
Amen
Sorry to hear about your issues. Do your best to keep liquid water from entering from the outside and keep humidity down in the living space.
A lot of reasons this can happen. See my post above. In the North your vapor barrier needs to be on the inside and the outside needs to breathe. ZIP system in the North is BAD.
what about using 1/2 plywood ran horizontal with house wrap would that be a good choice?
You mean the way the tract homes have been built since the 80’s?
@@HomePerformance we are building a new home and got a good deal on 1/2in plywood so was thinking about using that for wall sheeting.
Totally awesome plan, but don’t use housewrap- check out an adhesive membrane like Adhero or a liquid-applied WRB coating would be my advice.
I’m watching a house being built nearby and it rained several times before they wrapped it. Actually seen the same on a commercial building. I just wonder why they wouldn’t use Zip and dry it in quicker.
Marinating the framing is traditional
@@HomePerformance It must be especially in the PNW😂.
Zip (green) 7/16" is not permitted for roofs in NYS. Rich
This was a great discussion. Not sure you meant to but this is unlisted.
Yeah, it’s ok, I’ll release it officially on Monday. You went down the secret rabbit hole, you win the prize AV.
Zip-R is a WRB (air, water, thermal). But it is my understanding that Zip-R does not qualify as a true drainage plane. Please advise me.
Just made it to the end…absolutely phenomenal video! Thank you so much for putting this together.
👌🏽thx for watching man
I put me on THE LIST
hell yeah buddy
Hey Corbett, there's some misleading information here that should be addressed- The discussion of ZIp being very low perm in some tests is true but that is also true of all good quality OSB products. The problem is that the ASTM E96 dry cup results that he is alluding to are not representative of any real conditions that a US building will face and have no real performance implications like he's inferring.
This is the first I've heard that ZIP could save you money. I expect it to cost more but be more depenedable, partly because the installation system is more foolproof than typical housewrap. So if "Stuffing a bunch of stuff in your walls in not a good thing" to let the sheathing breath--then how good is it to back it with rigid foam? Doesn't make sense.
I've done a ton of digging on this in prep to doing a 2nd home we own. Because I live in the Northeast I want my vapor barrier to be on the inside, not the outside. What ZIP system does is give you a vapor barrier on the outside. This is wrong for me. I have my vapor barrier on the inside. If I use ZIP system I'm going to get moisture trapped inside the walls. BAD! The worst part is that ZIP system has almost no breathability. Here in the Northeast I need my outer barrier to breathe otherwise I will trap the moisture! In the South you want your vapor barrier on the OUTSIDE! So ZIP system is perfect for this. I think a lot of people in the Northeast don't realize this and will eventually pay the price. Speaking of price: ZIP system $30 per 7/16x4x8 sheet. Same sheet for OSB? $11.60. I *hate* OSB but with Tyvek on it. Safe. The other really important thing is to use Tyvek by DuPont. Do NOT use a cheap substitute!
Zip is not a vapor barrier.
@@BenBogie-ee2sm From Huber: "Is ZIP System an air barrier? Yes. ZIP System sheathing when combined with ZIP System flashing tape (and/or ZIP System™ liquid flash) form a rigid air barrier and acts as an effective component of a continuous air control layer."
@@SciaticaDrums an air barrier is not the same thing as a vapor barrier, or a weather resistive barrier. Zip system is both an air barrier and a weather resistive barrier but NOT a vapor barrier.
@@BenBogie-ee2sm So what should I do? I have a 6mil plastic barrier on the inside of my home. I am so confused about all of this. And I need to figure it out quick because I need to re-sheath this home!
I don't think the air barrier and WRB should be combined. Plywood is superior to OSB in every functional way and is less expensive than Zip sheathing. Zip tape sticks like crazy to plywood for a great air barrier. Then use housewrap for what it does best. I achieved ACH .77 on my gut remodel. It was a worst case scenario, a single floor home with a shallow crawl space. (the same amount of leakage rates better in a house with a full basement and/or multiple floors.) I prefer Kimberly Clark's Block-It housewrap. It is a two layer affair. The bottom is smooth and the top like a fine soft nonwoven fabric. They are apparently fused with a heated perforated platen that leaves raised dimples to provide drainage under exterior insulation. It's about the same price as standard Tyvek and far cheaper than drainage Tyvek. Despite what Zip says I don't trust Zip sheathing to provide adequate drainage and obviously Force Field provides none.
Actually plywood can become less uniform than OSB and can delaminate. That being said, I’d take plywood over OSB if cost wasn’t an issue.
Furthermore, taping this stuff on a roof is a dangerous waist of time and money. The tape is $30 a roll! Not to mention the roof is slicker than a slip and slide. Trying to put expensive tape on a slippery roof is a disaster. Fully regret using GP ForceField on my roof.
What happens in 20 years when glue fails on the tape and it doesn’t seal anymore ??
How does glue fail in your scenario exactly?
@@HomePerformance from the seasonal temp changes, hot and cold, plus the glue breaking down over time just like it does on any adhesive product, what is the warranty on the adhesive glue on the tape ??
@paulmollise1856 ours, and a lot of others, is protected by exterior insulation, so movement from temps is minimal. Also, that’s why I build in redundancy in my homes with an interior house wrap as well.
Reservoir cladding should be avoided at all costs.
All due respect…. But…. Another total waste of my time. Like the last three information voids that are your videos. You absolutely cannot discuss one part of a system without the other parts. That zip sheet does not have enough thermal insulation to do the job. To protect the structural elements from becoming thermal bridges you need more insulation between the zip and the structure. Building science 101. Discus the entire system, not one element that must marry with other elements to become a complete system. Sheesh.
Fred Snit, your dream of becoming a video maker is nigh- go make even one video that truly addresses the entire system of anything on earth, and you will have earned the cred to complain about your free video consumption. Until then, we do not make videos for you. Move on.
@@HomePerformance already been done by the god of building science
ruclips.net/video/E_ngmbANeOg/видео.html
And
ruclips.net/video/E_ngmbANeOg/видео.html
Etc.
You’re separating and confusing all the layers
All I can say is WOW. Totally missed the point of the video my friend. We are talking about water management not thermal breaks. That science 101 will be or already was discussed. (Air gap or insulation)
@@trickstothetrades1801 clearly, you don't understand the issue or building science 101.
water management includes condensation; to avoid condensation you need to place the vapor and air barriers and insulation in the proper places to avoid 1. condensation; 2. trapping condensation; 3. thermal bridges that will result in condensation. Study joe lstiburek, the perfect wall, building science.
this video addresses sheathing with a barrier. great. one part of the sandwich. completely useless without the other part of a system. where do the other parts of the system go if you use this super-fantastic barrier? what are the other materials that work with this barrier? which materials don't work and why? that's information people can use.
you can't talk about water management without talking about location of insulation, air and vapor barriers, condensation, and thermal bridges - and your climate zone. and you need to address the correct materials to do these things. this 2-part 40mins of video garbage miss all of that and only point out these sheathing and tapes work. bam saved you 39 mins and 30 seconds.
Snit, you are clearly not a specialist in practical applications. Stick to reviewing childrens skis, and don’t turn troll on my channel and my followers. All due respect, but you’re being the total waste of time here.