The Birth of WRB: meet Building Science's Remote Researcher, Landus Bennet
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2024
- Meet our friend Landus Bennet (WatsonSprings.com). He builds, he thinks about it, he tests, and builds differently the next time. What's different about him is that we ALL are building differently because of the work he's done. Let's dive into the fundamental creativity of builders, overdriven nails, tape leak testing, ASTM E331, liquid applied flashings, the history of housewrap, his backyard material aging tests, and some new materials that don't have a mainstream application yet.
Next time you venture into the woods of north Georgia you can thank him for ZIP System and GP ForceField, along with tweaks to many other building products we use in performance-based building.
Consult or train with Corbett and learn to tune any home's performance: BuildingPerformanceWorkshop.com
Watch the first-ever TV series about the Science of Homes: HomeDiagnosis.tv
Join our Patreon membership for exclusive access and behind-the-scenes discussions! / homediagnosistv
CHAPTERS:
2:52 Overdriven Nails
9:04 Tape Leak Testing
12:20 Liquid Flashing
13:38 Material Aging Test
16:49 New Materials Testing 
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Joseph Lstiburek says to avoid tape and use liquid flashing, for just the reason you two discussed at 12:50. Great to see three great minds thinking alike.
Thanks Unicorn- another thing we can all agree on is that there are no black and white rules or magic products ;)
Blue tuck tape is the just lovely. Very happy Landus is repping it.
Mr. Landus Bennetts voice sounds like an inventor.
Drying potential to me seems very important. I’m taking up a floor now that the homeowner had layered particle board between plywood. When it got wet it couldn’t dry out and fell apart. I also had a floor where someone put R13 insulation in between layers of plywood (ON A FLOOR) and it held moister and rotted out. Talk about design to fail!! Then take Rockwool that will dry out after being wet and not rot. What a difference. If we could design everything to dry out there would be no rot and mold
It’s a science and an art
Cool video
🙏🏽
Awesome video
Wow, this guy is awesome. I really want to know what that last material, the recycled plastic, is. Also, what it's other characteristics are, like weight.
Having touched it, I remember it being pretty lightweight. Agreed, interesting concept.
It's around 1.8 lbs per square foot at 7/16" thick. A little heaver than 7/16" osb but not so much that it can't be easily handled. The landscape and tree service industry have given us positive feedback on its use as an access panel. They can drive equipment over this material and protect the lawn underneath.
@@landusbennett7123 Do you have the manufacturer and/or product name? Thanks!
Another informative video. I wish you could do a follow-up on how to correctly install a rain screen on Zip panels. I would think if you use furring strips and nail them to the zip this would create a problem. Would like to know how to properly attach a rain screen to a zip system.
Thanks
Hey Robert- I’ll bring Landus over to comment
Huber has just released a rainscreen product for the ZIP System that is designed for Stucco or other reservoir claddings.
Thanks Landus!
Thanks again for the reply. Looks like the Huber rain screen is for stucco or stone. Still not sure of proper techniques for a wood or cement based siding rain screen. I've seen many builders nail furring strips to the zip and into wall studs. Nail penetration through the Zip.
Thanks again
I don’t think nail penetration is the issue- OVERdriven nails, yes.
Great info. I'm trying to find the equivalents down here in Oz! cheers
Hope you find them crazy man
Still blows me away that despite all of these incremental advancements for the exterior most are still forced to use drywall. There are so many reasons why a superior structural material would do better. But also in terms of air quality in these tight homes as well as the possibility (in theory) that someone could make a system for the interior, meaning, the panel goes up without much treatment, plus, it could be removed without much effort etc.
In general though a moisture resistant or waterproof wall board that is affordable and still lightweight doesn't sound too hard to come up with.
Also it would be great to run steel conduit for electrical in these wall assemblies with the hope that the wiring could be more easily removed if need be. I like the exterior sheathing advancements but we are still building homes part by part and not like one large serial assembly where access to everything at a later date and future replacment is easier. Some of the prefabs get closer but still they don't often take the "right to repair" features seriously by having user access points etc. The house in this regard could be a bit more like a car or aeroplane where the whole lifecycle of the structure is integrated with the system itself.
Let's see some kind of interior wall board that is structural, lightweight, waterproof and dare I say removable without destroying it - MgO panels might get close.
The real reason is drywall panels are cheaper than McDonald's now
Hi thanks for your great channel. So if we go with one of these products either Zip or Forcefield. Rather using another another layer of grade D can we use Delta dry and lath?
So interesting . ❤️it
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What’s the name of the new material product he’s mentioning? 17:22
Doesn’t have a name yet
Is the material he was testing with the smooth shank roofing nails on the market?
He did mention smooth shank nails, yes.
@@shubinternet To clarify, Is the material, in which the smooth shank roofing nails were nailed into, on the market?
Not yet I think, Adam. Still needs a name.
@@HomePerformance Thank you.
5/8" OSB, is widely known to have a perm rating of 0.72 and ZIP claims to have a perm rating of 12 to 16. Does that mean, by way of the OSB backing, the actual perm rating is 0.72?
ZIP perm is actually closer to 0.3, apparently. Stay tuned.
@Home Performance if its a Class 2, then Zip should not be used, in Zones that have a poly back interior wall side.
What ZIP claims is the permeability of the overlay. The OSB substrate will have a perm rating much lower. When you add two layers together, one with a low perm rating and one with a higher perm rating, the permeability is NOT somewhere in the middle but would be lower than the lowest perm, thus driving the total perm rating below OSB. Is that a huge problem? I don't think so as long as there is drying potential on both sides of the sheathing.
I actually don’t think poly should be in walls anywhere south of Alaska. We had lots of calls every August in Chicago about mold growth.
@@landusbennett7123 Than you, Mr. Bennett. Zones that require poly back interior walls, typically have walls drying to the outside and conditions, at the time of construction would concern builders, if the perm was in the Class 2 range. Building sites in the Pac Northwest, are seen with drenched OSB and builders know, its acceptable because they are placing 25+ perm WRB and the OSB can dry. Pac Northwest is a poly interior wall zone.