Looks like the top end wasn't getting enough oil. Lucky he has another head but it will happen again if the oil pump is weak or oil gallery's blocked up top.
you are right mark because the coolant only keep the cylinder cool which the coolant flow around the block and keep the piston and block or bore area cool , and the valve head and cams and timing chain should be getting oil lubricant especially in the lobe cam area , defiantly be checking for oil
I love your enthusiasm, this cracked me up on you two bumbling along!. Comedy Central!. 🤣 Surely this is having a laugh?!. If you guys reading didn't realise it, this isn't a teaching vid!. Always take care to learn the right thing the proper way. Camshafts are timed to the crankshaft, by a belt, chain, or gear and they open valves at a set degrees of rotation. That let's AirFuel in, Exhaust out, and keeps the ignition/expanding gas in the cylinder respectively. Conrods (as the name implies, Connecting Rods) join the Pistons to the Crank and are responsible for making the crank turn... Piston drives down the bore from the expanding gas of combustion, sealed in by closed valves and piston rings (yes, blowby, but not right now) whilst the crank turns, the Conrod pushes it up to expell spent charge/compress charge air. The Conrod lives between the piston and crankshaft and literally turns the vertical motion from pistons/ignition, the going up and down bit, into rotation that turns the Crankshaft, the spinning thing... Which drives your gears, gears drive your sprocket or shaft, ect. Even that's a way oversimplification. Like way to simple, borderline... but this is a RUclips comment. We are not back in Tafe. As I'm sure you know, you line bore for Cranks and Cams, you don't hone them traditionally. You bore a cylinder to square or oversize, for a myriad of reasons. A hone will not square a cylinder bore, it's done to cause a mechanical seal with your rings and so they bed in, as they won't seal from a shiny polished surface, they will simply slide along, and your compression suffers... Hence the term "glazed bores". Don't ever do valve springs unless you know what your doing, retainers have a tendency to find eyes, or never be found again 😉. Also, a machineshop will cut your valve seat, lapping is fine but not always recommended. When done right, you can not beat a properly cut valve and seat!. I suggest that you learn from someone who did their time as an apprentice, like the rest of us mechanics. Or at least, someone who knows what an item is called, what it does, how it does that and why its doing it... I don't suggest taking lessons from someone who "watched RUclips" to learn, more so someone who knows, and is using RUclips to teach. I enjoy your channel, usually there is a "saddle bag" full of good stuff, including the feed ideas... So I can only assume you have this as a "mechanical comedy upload". There is a channel called "Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions" (believe that's correct) the guys has a mechanical background, and would probably be happy to colab and set you right if your serious about learning ... Got a cracking sense of humour too, I'm sure he would fit right in!.
Mark has always pointed he's not a painter, a carpenter or a builder, but yes, I was a little surprised at how much wasn't known. But we all start some where, and he's having a go. Sometimes learning can be pretty expensive, I don't know shit about running a video camera let alone editing.
@@jeeves6490 Yeah... I agree. I was sure he is just pulling chains, cos a Conrod and a Camshaft are worlds apart!, but, I have picked up tips from his random food ones that I am bloody greatful for, and use all the time, especially when your going to a BBQ. His Packaging Eggs tip will make sure they last the trip and end up as food on your plate and not broken up on the way there! . I would point you towards it but can't remember which exact video, maybe he might read and help you all with a link. Watch it again cos two is one, one is none!. For BBQ, Caravan or Any kinda Camping trip, his Egg-Saver works, and works well!... Hit him up for which one cos that tip helped me out alot and I don't have to over-buy extras any more cos I don't break em... But I still keep using the large zip lock bag, as a JIC thing. An old tradesman I worked with used to say to all the new people, regardless of where they started as, he would say "everyone alive is an apprentice in something, cos if ya not learning are ya really living"... I was an apprentice camping egg breaker one day 😉
Definitely an oil supply problem not a problem with the water cooling, check the oil pump and oil pump drive gear, most drive gears are made of a type of plastic and do wear, they make them plastic so if the pump seizes up it not break anything just strip the teeth off the gear. Also check all the oil chambers to make sure they are not blocked. The cam runs on a film of oil that needs good oil pressure to keep the cam from actually rubbing against the aluminium of the head.
Some people are being a bit harsh-you don't claim to be an expert Mark, at least you are having a go and learning as you go! If you get a workshop manual, and find a good bike shop you can trust, you'll be right! Keep it up mate:)
with the valve retaining clips... get a bolt that can screw into the head and can make a fork to press down on it then magnet them out.. install is the same but reverse.
Thanks for that guys, Wow good thing its repairable. but its definitely would have been worth worth spending a few dollars on an new auto thermo switch.
I would use a proper valve spring tool, which isn't very expensive. Or some auto supply stores will rent out tools. Bashing it with a hammer and socket sounds like a good way to cause other damage.
Hey Mark you could get an old bike engine and pull it apart to learn how an engine works. A dead engine should be cheap if not free even. Do a 2 and 4 stroke engine to see the difference. might make a good video for your viewers who don't understand engines as well. Just a suggestion. By the way the clips at the top of the valves are called collets. Another good video Mark.
michael o' toole 47 minutes ago you are right mark Dillon , Mark , because the coolant only keep the cylinder cool which the coolant flow around the block and keep the piston and block or bore area cool , and the valve head and cams and timing chain should be getting oil lubricant especially in the lobe cam area , defiantly be checking for oil
Oh boy! I'm out doing a spot of solo camping (by truck not bike this time) and there's a new Biker Bits video to watch this evening with a beer, bloody ripper 👍🍻
They will need it (VSC) anyway when they put the valves into the new head. Everyone thinks the problem is a lack of oil and I agree. Only one cam journal was affected so their must be a blocked oil channel. It would be worth investigating before putting it together and running the engine.
This is 100% oil starvation issue, I have repaired( machined and line bored) a few of these back in the day and it was due to low oil , both ones I fixed had leaking sprocket seals letting the oil level drop below minimum whilst running, anyway oil,oil flow, oil pressure that's my 2 cents worth best of luck
I would be concerned about oil starvation with that motor. Burns like that can happen from not enough lubrication, caused by a blocked oil passage or lack of oil pressure.
The other problem that can happen is metal parts expanding beyond tolerance limit due to overheating to the point the oil can no longer prevent metal to metal contact.
Auto decompression (XR600 good for wearing & gets hard to get TD for kick starting just press them off use the manual auto decomp) drill Stud extractor Get a can of WD40 for cooling the drill bit & I just drill them with a Blue Grade Cobolt drill (not cheap but cut through stainless studs like butter) use a center punch try punch a center mark for the drill bit on the stud then SLOWLY drill with small Cobolt drill as close as possible in the center of the stud drill through then up the size of the Cobolt drill as large as possible to the size the stud But small enough not to stuff the thread in the head & drill SLOWLY as close to the thread without damaging the thread then use a pick & pic last the bolt out from the threads - can run a tap in it to make sure threads are all good
Intake cam lobe looks bad with flat spots, can't see the exhaust cam lobe well enough. Oil starved, check for missing gaskets at oil cap - flywheel view windows, switch to synthetic oil Shell Rotella T6 and clean out the thin oil line pipes. Replace the radiator fan temp sensor or put a manual on/off switch on it.
Bahahahahaha, so many comment mechanics makin only half sense. Its obvious to me that it is an over tight cam chain causing that heat and wear that then wrecked more. I loved the video guys , how to learn on the go.
A C-clamp, piece of wood, and a cheap socket with openings cut in the side of it makes a great improvised valve spring tool. Google it! I find it surprising that there are NO bushings on the camshaft retaining caps! Greetings from South Carolina!
Why would the intake side be worn? I have a klr250 and it's well known that is a weakness of this bike. Poor oiling system? I never heard such problems on other kawasakis like KLR650
My mates KLX650 had a similar issue. My mate was amazing at cleaning his bike, but had no mechanical clue. Oil starvation happened due to old oil creating a blockage. We ended up rebuilding the entire engine, where I found the oil channels to the head were blocked.
Mark! “You bloody idiot” :) The cams do not transmit power to the wheel. The Crank Shaft does. The gas igniting in the combustion chamber pushes the piston down, which rotates the crank (the crank powers the wheel), a timing chain runs off the front of the crank up to the cams, the lobes on the cam open up the valves allowing the engine to breathe and the next ignition cycle to happen. And I agree with the others, he has a lubrication issue.
🤣🤣🤣...the Blind leading, the blind.
Looks like the top end wasn't getting enough oil. Lucky he has another head but it will happen again if the oil pump is weak or oil gallery's blocked up top.
you are right mark because the coolant only keep the cylinder cool which the coolant flow around the block and keep the piston and block or bore area cool , and the valve head and cams and timing chain should be getting oil lubricant especially in the lobe cam area , defiantly be checking for oil
I love your enthusiasm, this cracked me up on you two bumbling along!. Comedy Central!. 🤣 Surely this is having a laugh?!.
If you guys reading didn't realise it, this isn't a teaching vid!. Always take care to learn the right thing the proper way.
Camshafts are timed to the crankshaft, by a belt, chain, or gear and they open valves at a set degrees of rotation. That let's AirFuel in, Exhaust out, and keeps the ignition/expanding gas in the cylinder respectively.
Conrods (as the name implies, Connecting Rods) join the Pistons to the Crank and are responsible for making the crank turn... Piston drives down the bore from the expanding gas of combustion, sealed in by closed valves and piston rings (yes, blowby, but not right now) whilst the crank turns, the Conrod pushes it up to expell spent charge/compress charge air. The Conrod lives between the piston and crankshaft and literally turns the vertical motion from pistons/ignition, the going up and down bit, into rotation that turns the Crankshaft, the spinning thing... Which drives your gears, gears drive your sprocket or shaft, ect.
Even that's a way oversimplification. Like way to simple, borderline... but this is a RUclips comment. We are not back in Tafe.
As I'm sure you know, you line bore for Cranks and Cams, you don't hone them traditionally.
You bore a cylinder to square or oversize, for a myriad of reasons. A hone will not square a cylinder bore, it's done to cause a mechanical seal with your rings and so they bed in, as they won't seal from a shiny polished surface, they will simply slide along, and your compression suffers... Hence the term "glazed bores".
Don't ever do valve springs unless you know what your doing, retainers have a tendency to find eyes, or never be found again 😉.
Also, a machineshop will cut your valve seat, lapping is fine but not always recommended. When done right, you can not beat a properly cut valve and seat!.
I suggest that you learn from someone who did their time as an apprentice, like the rest of us mechanics. Or at least, someone who knows what an item is called, what it does, how it does that and why its doing it... I don't suggest taking lessons from someone who "watched RUclips" to learn, more so someone who knows, and is using RUclips to teach.
I enjoy your channel, usually there is a "saddle bag" full of good stuff, including the feed ideas... So I can only assume you have this as a "mechanical comedy upload".
There is a channel called "Andy's Motorcycle Obsessions" (believe that's correct) the guys has a mechanical background, and would probably be happy to colab and set you right if your serious about learning ... Got a cracking sense of humour too, I'm sure he would fit right in!.
Mark has always pointed he's not a painter, a carpenter or a builder, but yes, I was a little surprised at how much wasn't known.
But we all start some where, and he's having a go.
Sometimes learning can be pretty expensive, I don't know shit about running a video camera let alone editing.
@@jeeves6490 Yeah... I agree.
I was sure he is just pulling chains, cos a Conrod and a Camshaft are worlds apart!, but, I have picked up tips from his random food ones that I am bloody greatful for, and use all the time, especially when your going to a BBQ. His Packaging Eggs tip will make sure they last the trip and end up as food on your plate and not broken up on the way there! .
I would point you towards it but can't remember which exact video, maybe he might read and help you all with a link. Watch it again cos two is one, one is none!.
For BBQ, Caravan or Any kinda Camping trip, his Egg-Saver works, and works well!... Hit him up for which one cos that tip helped me out alot and I don't have to over-buy extras any more cos I don't break em... But I still keep using the large zip lock bag, as a JIC thing.
An old tradesman I worked with used to say to all the new people, regardless of where they started as, he would say "everyone alive is an apprentice in something, cos if ya not learning are ya really living"... I was an apprentice camping egg breaker one day 😉
In the machine shop, we use incremental reverse drill bits for stud extraction :)
This shit is the funniest thing I've ever watched 😂😂😂
I used to own a KLX250. Had such problem and the culprit was the timing chain tensioner. Well at least I do not have any broken bolts :😁
Thos is exactly the best way to find out whats going on inside your engine. Everyone starts somewhere. Good video, good explanations. Keep it up 👍
Definitely an oil supply problem not a problem with the water cooling, check the oil pump and oil pump drive gear, most drive gears are made of a type of plastic and do wear, they make them plastic so if the pump seizes up it not break anything just strip the teeth off the gear.
Also check all the oil chambers to make sure they are not blocked.
The cam runs on a film of oil that needs good oil pressure to keep the cam from actually rubbing against the aluminium of the head.
Some people are being a bit harsh-you don't claim to be an expert Mark, at least you are having a go and learning as you go! If you get a workshop manual, and find a good bike shop you can trust, you'll be right! Keep it up mate:)
Looks at cylinder head, is it upside down? Brilliant.
with the valve retaining clips... get a bolt that can screw into the head and can make a fork to press down on it then magnet them out..
install is the same but reverse.
Don't put yourself down that's dam good knowledge
Thanks for that guys, Wow good thing its repairable. but its definitely would have been worth worth spending a few dollars on an new auto thermo switch.
I would use a proper valve spring tool, which isn't very expensive. Or some auto supply stores will rent out tools. Bashing it with a hammer and socket sounds like a good way to cause other damage.
Hey Mark you could get an old bike engine and pull it apart to learn how an engine works. A dead engine should be cheap if not free even. Do a 2 and 4 stroke engine to see the difference. might make a good video for your viewers who don't understand engines as well. Just a suggestion. By the way the clips at the top of the valves are called collets. Another good video Mark.
michael o' toole
47 minutes ago
you are right mark Dillon , Mark , because the coolant only keep the cylinder cool which the coolant flow around the block and keep the piston and block or bore area cool , and the valve head and cams and timing chain should be getting oil lubricant especially in the lobe cam area , defiantly be checking for oil
Oh boy! I'm out doing a spot of solo camping (by truck not bike this time) and there's a new Biker Bits video to watch this evening with a beer, bloody ripper 👍🍻
Lube problem. Check the oil pump discharge pressure
Valve spring compressor isn't that expensive,sometimes it pays to go to total tools there prices aren't to bad on some things 👍
They will need it (VSC) anyway when they put the valves into the new head. Everyone thinks the problem is a lack of oil and I agree. Only one cam journal was affected so their must be a blocked oil channel. It would be worth investigating before putting it together and running the engine.
To cook the head properly you need to boil it with a pair of boots. When the boots are soft, throw away the head and eat the boots.
This is 100% oil starvation issue, I have repaired( machined and line bored) a few of these back in the day and it was due to low oil , both ones I fixed had leaking sprocket seals letting the oil level drop below minimum whilst running, anyway oil,oil flow, oil pressure that's my 2 cents worth best of luck
Time to upgrade to a DR650
G'Day Mark, anther informative video; Nice to see this, all good fun and we all learn something new...cheers
I would be concerned about oil starvation with that motor. Burns like that can happen from not enough lubrication, caused by a blocked oil passage or lack of oil pressure.
The other problem that can happen is metal parts expanding beyond tolerance limit due to overheating to the point the oil can no longer prevent metal to metal contact.
Run good motorcycle oil,go only with enough oil and check valve clearance often than the KLR 250 runs forever.
Very interesting......RUclips to the rescue again, good stuff
oh just one other thing to remember mechanical knowledge is danger est
Now we know why he's had the head off so many times😵
Hope he uses the correct torque on those bolts on the new head!😎
i would pull the barrel off and see how the piston and rings are and if it has scored the bore
It locks in somehow.... 🤣🤣🤣
Auto decompression (XR600 good for wearing & gets hard to get TD for kick starting just press them off use the manual auto decomp)
drill Stud extractor
Get a can of WD40 for cooling the drill bit & I just drill them with a Blue Grade Cobolt drill (not cheap but cut through stainless studs like butter) use a center punch try punch a center mark for the drill bit on the stud then SLOWLY drill with small Cobolt drill as close as possible in the center of the stud drill through then up the size of the Cobolt drill as large as possible to the size the stud But small enough not to stuff the thread in the head & drill SLOWLY as close to the thread without damaging the thread then use a pick & pic last the bolt out from the threads - can run a tap in it to make sure threads are all good
Intake cam lobe looks bad with flat spots, can't see the exhaust cam lobe well enough. Oil starved, check for missing gaskets at oil cap - flywheel view windows, switch to synthetic oil Shell Rotella T6 and clean out the thin oil line pipes. Replace the radiator fan temp sensor or put a manual on/off switch on it.
Bahahahahaha, so many comment mechanics makin only half sense.
Its obvious to me that it is an over tight cam chain causing that heat and wear that then wrecked more. I loved the video guys , how to learn on the go.
A C-clamp, piece of wood, and a cheap socket with openings cut in the side of it makes a great improvised valve spring tool. Google it! I find it surprising that there are NO bushings on the camshaft retaining caps! Greetings from South Carolina!
He really thinks the power transfers from the cam chain. Is this fake?
👍
keepers
Why would the intake side be worn? I have a klr250 and it's well known that is a weakness of this bike. Poor oiling system?
I never heard such problems on other kawasakis like KLR650
I have no idea! :-)
Any chance the owner would sell me that exhaust camshaft and rocker/follower? Would have to ship to the USA. Thanks.
The only KLR 250 I seen around here also had a problem with the head.
My mates KLX650 had a similar issue. My mate was amazing at cleaning his bike, but had no mechanical clue. Oil starvation happened due to old oil creating a blockage. We ended up rebuilding the entire engine, where I found the oil channels to the head were blocked.
Definitely a lack of oil somewhere along the line.
this is a notorious problem as it is green emissions problem aka kawasaki
Nothing like you tube to learn how to totally f-up a motor.
Ummmm.. did you weld that vice to that table??
Yes! :-)
@@BikerBits Superb work! :)
Willing to bet he put the wrong bolts in for the oil tubes and that's why the exhaust cam got smoked
First here from WA
Good Onya mate! :-)
Make a video when you guys fix the engine!
I think this looks like the video on how to remove the valve spring with a socket and a magnet ruclips.net/video/xtO8ev0Q9jc/видео.html
Funniest thing about this shirt is..... ? I cant read the rest
Me either now! :-)
the camshaft bearings have almost disappeared. You need to replace them not machine the headstock.
Mark! “You bloody idiot” :) The cams do not transmit power to the wheel. The Crank Shaft does. The gas igniting in the combustion chamber pushes the piston down, which rotates the crank (the crank powers the wheel), a timing chain runs off the front of the crank up to the cams, the lobes on the cam open up the valves allowing the engine to breathe and the next ignition cycle to happen. And I agree with the others, he has a lubrication issue.
Witchcraft mate, that’s what it is...