very useful info. Just what I needed. When the people around you send you their champions in your time of need, and those champions fail everybody spectacularly, thank god for dudes like you on youtube. Thanks man
this piece of information is very good and correct my elantra 2015 stalls and die many times due to this problems which most mechanics do not find easily.
My 2004 elantra does the same thing. I've had to start trying to fill it up only 3/4 way, and the problem has gone away. It looks like I have the same issue. Thanks for posting this video. My mechanic could not figure out the problem.
Great video, I just wish I saw it 2 years ago. A friend of mine had the stalling and spluttering problem in her 2004 Hyundai Accent and has been to 3 different mechanics and has had almost everything replaced. Fuel pump, filter, ignition coils, both sensors, plugs to mention just a few. She has spent over $2,000 on a car worth $1,500 and up until last week was still stalling. she found a Hyundai expert and he found the problem in 4 minutes. He told her there is a valve under the back seat which sticks open and when you drive down hill or apply the brakes, fuel rushes into the fuel rail and floods the engine. We don't know what he did to stop it being stuck open, but the car has been running perfectly since he closed the valve. Hope this helps...Peter
No codes? Mine failed emissions for a gross leak, I replaced the obvious but it didn't work. Took it in so I could get my tabs and they found the vapor canister purge valve was stuck open. They said they didn't do anything to it, but it apparently closed cause the code went away and never came back, haha.
Thank you for the information it was very helpful. I went directly to remove the canister and I find out the was liquid gas about a half cup. I drain the canister and left over night the next day I put back the canister and now the car is running normal. Thank again.
Filled our '03 sonata up on thursday night. drove it friday and it was fine. it sat all weekend. Drove it to work monday morning and it was fine, but after sitting all day it was slow to start that evening, and then it died at a stop light. Started fine the next morning and then it was slow to start in the evening again. hoping the evap canister is the problem...Thank you for posting this video.
I've got a 2003 Elantra 2.4, 4 Door sedan gls. The car ran great until I stopped at a gas station and only put 6 dollars of gas in it. I started the car up and put it in drive then gentlely press the accelerator. The engine started shaking then died out after moving 3 feet. It hasn't started back up sense. What could be wrong? It will start with starting fluid but no response when accelerated in park? Videos state that the cam position sensor could be bad and commanding the ECU not to run the fuel pump. I can hear it turn on though when the key is turned to start the engine. If it has a high pressure pump at the engine I can't find it or the connection on the fuel rail to check fuel pressure? I'm stuck at this point?
In my 2004 KIA Optima, I just replaced my crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer. This was the second time I was in there, as I replaced every timing component in there just 90 days ago. The HB fixed the shaking at stop lights, which I would some times damoen by putting car in neutral. But my car was and is still not revving properly, stalls and wants to die at lower speeds. It happens as I shift down, right at 33mph, slowing down. Once it starts stalling after slowing speed, it doesn't rev up to gain speed properly. I cam gas it and kind of make it go but the car moght only increas speed at about 1mph every 10 seconds. The longer I drive, the worse it gets, it seems-- I test drove my car for about am hour tonight, after replacing the HB and crank sensor and that's when the symptoms began, same as before. My crank sensor was cracked when I did the timing but I had to use it because it was about midnight when I did the timing parts. So, when the stalling and rev problems started, my guy said crank sensor. There was a code for it, and I knew it was cracked, so I figured he was right. So, for about an hour I thought I had fixed all those problems but I haven't. Now with new timing parts, crank sensor and harmonic balancer... I think my problem might be one of those mentioned in this video. I'm broke so fixing it is my only option-- I can't possibly afford a new car. I hope I can figure it out. Thank you for making and sharing this video.
You're welcome. Just think it's free to do this check and free to empty the canister in the back. Just a bit of your time to test it. Hopefully your issue can get fixed!
@@HypnoticLoveBath I replaced the crank sensor and harmonic balancer, which helped the vibrations a lot. But in the end, it was a bad ignition coil. $38 and 5 minutes of wrenching. I'm going to check/replace the box you're showing in this video, though, just to learn it.
THANK YOU SO MUCH I DID REMOVE THE CANISTER AND KEPT ON DRAINING THE GAS IN SIDE IT . IT HAS MORE THEN ONE CUP .LET IT DRAIN OVER NIGHT ..CAR IS RUNNING FINE SINCE THEN .NOW I AM NOT FILLING THE TANK FULL .I THANK YOU AGAIN .
But what can cause it to stall when on motion, engine hot, in gear and brake pedal depressed but wouldn't stall when the same car is on motion, engine hot, in neutral transmission this time and brake pedal depressed? The car is 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS with an automatic transmission. The Mechanic have replaced a fuel pump but is not working. Problem still persist. What should I do? Car was not communicating with scantool.
02 GT, Car runs fine until I get to a stop light. Idle is about 700RPM, I've been having to rev the engine to 4,000RPM's and let the clutch out slowly so the car won't stall when I leave from a stop? It only seems to do it after the car has warmed up. Sometimes I push on the gas to leave from a stop and for a second it feels like the car has no power at all, then it takes off just fine???
i have a 2004 hundai elantra and whrn i get to a certain rpm it does this jerking motion like something is about to fall out of the bottom. what does that mean?
@@hostelowner yes....i did went to the shop the cause of stalling was low or no oil, the car was stalling so the engine wouldn't Seize up! It's running perfect, after a oil change
@@relok_8056 2017 Hyundai Elantra, it's fixed NOW, it was because there was LOW to NO OIL in the engine! The car would stall when you accelerated and shut off so that the engine didn't cease and lock up pretty smart if I say so that's why soon as I went a mile it would stall and shut off but the engine light would not come on or the oil light it would lose its lights when it stalled and the battery engine light would come on I took it to the mechanic right after and thank God they were good and didn't lie to me and it had little to no oil in the car would stall out to let you know there's a problem and not let you keep driving it so the engine did it cease up and lock cost me 40 bucks for oil change and she's been running great
if your evap canister is a victim of overfill, the only thing that works is to replace and then purge the line from engine to canister ... nothing else will work for long in my experience
@@michaelangelo6378 - NOT true ... if the canister is filled with fuel, there is no way to regenerate it and must be replaced and return line must be purged ...
When gas is cheap at reservation gas station I pack as much gas in as I can, till it up to fill neck. Gas will be dripping from canister. O4 Elantra 186,000 miles and never a problem. Didn't change original timing belt till 150,000 miles and old belt probably could of went another 100,000 miles. These cars are tanks unless you beat the crap out of them. Apparently you don't understand how an EVAP canister works and neither does guy who made this video.
Were there any engine codes associated with the engine sputtering condition? I just got a p0172 System too Rich (Bank 1) code on my 2004 Elantra, which sounds like it could be related to excess fuel from the evap canister, but my car hasn't started sputtering.
Hey, Im having simliar issue with my hyundai sonata 2.4l but it doesnt like to start the first try. Usually rough once it starts but not always. sometimes it starts right away strong. I have changed plugs, timing belt, oil. I dont think it is a coil pack because it doesnt really run that bad. barely under 1000 rpms. Not sure where i should looks next.
Brett Forguson Check the Fuel pressure regulator, That fixed the problem with the starting, on mine, but still need to find what I think is a vacuum problem.
this happened to my wifes 01 i watched this after i disconnected the wires and it was nice to hear that is would still run without, has the check engine light but runs great now! my first code was saying it was the o2 sensor. but that is explained if it was running rich. thanks for the video!
I'm currently having this issue but not stalling or dying it's hard to start after running car for a hour drive then putting gas in it I have to hold have to hold gas down to keep it running then it stays I changed purge valve still reads insufficient flow
Hello. First, sorry for my bad English)) So, Initially the problem was starting the engine at gas stations. The car drives fine before refueling, you turn off the engine, refuel, but after it was a problem with starting the engine. I replaced the absorber valve, the problem disappeared. After that I changed the timing belt, and now my Elantra die while driving, especially in hot day, and especially in traffic jams and on the low speed. I already changed fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, cleaned the throttle and idle speed sensor. No one were useful. Pleas share your skills if you have…?
Hi please give me a solution. I have Hyundai Elantra 2005. Yesterday after driving 18miles on highway, engine started to sound like a old tractor and it was loosing power as I keep pushing the gas peddle. Soon engine shutdown but it starts again after 20 mins. Today I drove it for 1 mike and the engine heat measuring meter in dashboard went to high but eventually it goes down when the car is put in neutral. So when I put on gear the engine gets hot, stumbles and dies within 3 miles but on neutral, engine cools down. I just cleaned mass flow sensor, radiator no leaks, fans are working, radiator water does not jumps out which happens in case of head gasket broken, no water mixture in engine oil. What could be the problem. Please help!
this was happening to my parents 2002 Hyundai elantra and they could never figure it out. ended up only getting 500 trade in. but it is now happening to my 2002 kia optima. And they have similar engine specs, make and model trim and design, etc.. so I am wondering how to ohm out the TPS as you say? If it is "ohm." I assume with a multimeter but what prongs would I use and what am I actually checking for?
Not sure if it will, I haven't been able to touch it. But I do have an air leak in my intake somewhere around the throttle body. NOt sure if its inside it but I also get air in the coolant cycle I have to burp every so often. So I am assuming it has to do with the air leak and maybe not the tps. But I have heard from everybody its the tps
Hello I really need help with my car's problem. i use a hyundai elantra 2009 model.. anytime i start the car and it is idle mode, the rpm is at 1000rpms, when i change to drive mode, it drops to about just 200rpms and when i step on the accellerator, the rpm goes up and suddenly drops to zero and engine dies.. kindly assist me as this is really causing inconvenience for me. fuel economy has also dropped drastically
I'm trying to learn all I can. I just bought me a 2013 Hyundai Elantra and every now and then if my foot is on the break or put in park while still running my car would hesitate or shut off while standing still.
Thanks I think that is what is wrong with my wife's *99 Elantra I went the same way you did cleaned the MAF sensor ran better but still stalls a lights intermittently. have trouble filling it with gas all goes back to vapor recovery charcoal canister Thanks again Lee
Awesome video! What were the Ohm readings on all the sensors you tested. I have 3 different readings. Not sure of names, purge was 25/Fuel regulator was 28/air regulator was 1009 (which I thought was high) and could not get a read on mass air flow sensor. Again, I am not sure about name of sensors I mentioned. Thanks
Car was doing this now it stalls even in drive or park it’s just less likely and the rpm jumps and makes a weird noise before stalling… replaced catalytic converter, spark, plugs, engine, you name it, clean, throttle body I’m thinking it gotta be a sensor or something
sir.good morning how r u i am anayat hope so ur mood be good and have a nice day i have problem kia optima 2004 model exhaust gas and smoke engine what should i do please comment on this as soon as possible that will great kindness thanks and god bless
I have a 04 Hyundai sonata and this happens constantly mostly when the temperature out side is 100+ and someone told me it was vapor lock could this be this issue on my car also and is it the same procedure
Ever figure this out? My Veloster Turbo 2016 does the same. I can even see fuel vapors being vented through the gas cap. But same, stalls at idle when temps are close to 100 in Las Vegas. Never did it in FL though.
How often should I change spark plugs and mass air flow sensor? Firestone changed these two things in 2017 at 132,000 miles. Car stopped while slowing down in freeway today and so fixd sensor tool didn't read my car after paying app store and doing everything on it but Scotty Kilmer says it could be 5 things wrong with it so, I ordered cam position sensor on Amazon, and selenoid somewhere else cuz Amazon wouldnt send it to my address. Question: Should all vehicle sensors including vtt selenoid be ordered with Hyundai? Or okay on Amazon?
I had the same issue on a friend’s kia. The valve was opened always even with ignition off or disconnected. Also the fuel trims were negative indicating a rich condition, and in the fuel tank was always vacuum created. The situation was discovered after filling the fuel tank, after that the engine was running very bad, the spark plugs were black like I never saw. After changing the valve everything went well. For those who have the rich condition, never drive the car because is very probable to distroy the catalyctic converter.
I have a friend who has a 2006 Elantra ...he is having problems with it stalling bellow 3000 RPM ...he says he can crank the car up and as long as he holds the gas down and keeps it at 3000 RPM and above it will keep running but as soon as he lets up off the throttle it sputters and cuts off ...it never had done this until he replaced the head gasket and now he cant keep it running ...any ideas on what may be the problem ?
what is the name of the module in video attached to the intake it is the gray one with the three wires going to it mine is cracked and nobody seems to know what its called or where I can find this part thanks todd
2004 elantra. Mine will die in most of the circumstances you described. Would another instance that the car would die on me is if I drive it for an hour or so, the next time I try to start it will be difficult. Could that be the same problem with the canister?
my 2009 hyundai tucson dies while pressing the brake ready to stop on the stop light, and also on the parking ready to get out from the car and i never turn off yet the key but the engine dies, do you think they got the same symptoms?
my 2004 Elantra has done this twice now. First time it did this,car would shake and shut off and not start. Turned out exhaust and fuel tank needed to be changed. 8 months later today,same thing happen. Seemed like car would have a hard time getting gas when i pressed on the pedal,it would run and slowly die. It would start up again and it would run abit and once i gave it gas,it would slowly die. What could it be? is it even worth fixing anymore?
thank you for that info ill try it.i put it on a diagnostic tester and it said it was retorted timing or the o2 sensors were bad upper and lower or exhaust leak or catilitic convertor were do i start to narrow down the problem without spending an arm and leg and first born?
I have a 01 accent and had replace the evap canister cause the tubes coming out of it rusted and broke. Since putting on the new one every time I get gas it will inly fill a few cents and clicks off. Driving a few days ago it stalled while at a low speed and continues to do so. Do you think if I removed the canister and let it air out that would help? Thanks for the video.
I had this issue with one of my elantras and it was that the tubes coming from the evap canister were filled with charcoal pellets and blocking the flow of air/vapor. The pellets were leaking from the canister because the foam filter that holds them back had broken down. I had to make sure to clear all of those pellets and repair the canister with some foam I had and the problem was fixed. Your post was a while ago, so hopefully you have resolved the problem, but if not, make sure those tubes are clear of any debris.
I have an 04 Hyundai Elantra and it's doing the same thing so you said to unplug it in the front do I do it hot or cold should I do it while it's running or off thank you
You can do it while it's off to prevent any electrical arcing when you pull the connector. Careful not to burn yourself if it's hot still. When you test it, just drive it normally to operating temperature and if you don't have any more stalling issues that was most likely the problem. It only injects the charcoal canister fumes when the coolant is up to operating temperature.
Hello and great videoe. I have an 05 Elantra w/ same engine. Keep getting a p0507 which is idle too high. Change TPS, MAF sensor, Idle control valve, throttle body, and even the intake manifold gasket. I checked for leaks too. It doesn't stall it just surges up to 1500 rpms and then bounces between 1500 and 2000 rpms by itself. It only does this in park/neutral but once in gear it always drops to 1000rpms. Any thoughts, Im going crazy and dodging cops with an old inspection sticker? Please help.
I had similar issue on my 2000 accord - for me it was dirty idle air control valve, that was getting stuck. Part costed I belive 200 or 300$ , but good cleaning did the job for me. Hope this helps
Nathan Bradshaw yes. It was IAC. I brought one from Advanced and it didn't work. I then returned it and got an exchange n then idle returned normal n code went away. Try new IAC, clean throttle body with TB cleaner, and also smoke intake with seafoam
lifetrilly Thanks for the quick reply - I found one at OReillys for $115, dealer wants $225. Putting the new one from OReillys in today - will post here on how it goes...
My car's been doing the exact same thing. The vibration caused by low RPM is causing the engine to run horribly, and at times, stall on me as I attempt to go, and this is occurring with no AC on, and with brand new spark plugs & wires installed.
it likely your throttle body has a carbon build up,upsetting minimum airflow,the idle speed motor may also be all carbon up.Clean out with a good spray,check the EGR system too.It supposed to flare momentary on decell,stopping,AC on,if the airflow is restricted,also it should flare on a cold start,if not ,it very well could be carbon build up.Airflow is critical
Hi, i love your video. I have a 2009 Elantra, it works well, but does not change gears , it stays in gear 1 and refuses to change. How can i fix it. Thanks for your response.
Hello I have a 2004 Elantra it's putt putting when I mash the gas pedal it don't drive smoothly and at stop lights it act like it wanna cut off until I mash on gas pedal
My 2003 Elantra tries to die at idle when I drive it I lose power as I hit the gas it won't go over 3,000 RPMs I don't know how to fix it anybody have any kind of answer would be awesome I have to have this car for work everyday
Will the canister eventually evaporate or discard the excess fuel if it has any inside? I wonder if it will just so that I dont have to remove it. i always top off the fuel tank at every fill and will discontinue doing that now that I've seen your video. Thanks for the tips.
My car Elentra 2004 it start daily very nicely but it hesitating between 30 to 40 miles like misfire then it will be normal after 45 miles I driver it every day no code no check engine light just this problems hope some one can help me ,,I change spark plugs,,coil,ignitions wires thank u
You are the man Our car started doing this after i topped of the gas tank a few days ago. I thought it was water in the fuel. How long does it take to resolve itself if I do not pull all of that off is the question?
It will probably take a very long time or not even ever resolve itself. Basically all the gas that has accumulated inside the canister needs to evaporate through your EVAP system, which if that would happen, then the problem wouldn't exist. So in this case it accrued more liquid fuel than fuel vapors, which it should usually only have fuel vapors. Eventually instead of venting fuel vapors into the intake manifold to be burned, it started venting liquid fuel which greatly increased the mixture resulting in the rough running or the engine shutting off.
You could be in a fuel tank overfill condition as well ... your charcoal canister might be filled with fuel and need to be replaced - When the pump clicks to stop ... STOP filling your tank!
Thank you so much, you saved me $750 on repairs that I didn’t even need. The process was so easy too, no jacks required, anyone can do it!
very useful info. Just what I needed. When the people around you send you their champions in your time of need, and those champions fail everybody spectacularly, thank god for dudes like you on youtube. Thanks man
this piece of information is very good and correct my elantra 2015 stalls and die many times due to this problems which most mechanics do not find easily.
Elantra 1998 1.6 start and shut off idle is low and sometimes it give me a high rev counter and shut off
My 2004 elantra does the same thing. I've had to start trying to fill it up only 3/4 way, and the problem has gone away. It looks like I have the same issue. Thanks for posting this video. My mechanic could not figure out the problem.
Sometimes the mechanics should search the internet.
Great video, I just wish I saw it 2 years ago. A friend of mine had the stalling and spluttering problem in her 2004 Hyundai Accent and has been to 3 different mechanics and has had almost everything replaced. Fuel pump, filter, ignition coils, both sensors, plugs to mention just a few. She has spent over $2,000 on a car worth $1,500 and up until last week was still stalling. she found a Hyundai expert and he found the problem in 4 minutes. He told her there is a valve under the back seat which sticks open and when you drive down hill or apply the brakes, fuel rushes into the fuel rail and floods the engine. We don't know what he did to stop it being stuck open, but the car has been running perfectly since he closed the valve. Hope this helps...Peter
+calaisnut The fuel pump is under the seat,fuel pressure regulator or filter is also located there.maybe a bad regulator.
No codes? Mine failed emissions for a gross leak, I replaced the obvious but it didn't work. Took it in so I could get my tabs and they found the vapor canister purge valve was stuck open. They said they didn't do anything to it, but it apparently closed cause the code went away and never came back, haha.
Thank you for the information it was very helpful. I went directly to remove the canister and I find out the was liquid gas about a half cup. I drain the canister and left over night the next day I put back the canister and now the car is running normal.
Thank again.
How did you drain it? when i flit it upside down nothing comes out. its like there is a value that is closed.
Very clear vid focus even during movement.
Filled our '03 sonata up on thursday night. drove it friday and it was fine. it sat all weekend. Drove it to work monday morning and it was fine, but after sitting all day it was slow to start that evening, and then it died at a stop light. Started fine the next morning and then it was slow to start in the evening again. hoping the evap canister is the problem...Thank you for posting this video.
Christina Felshaw
This worked for my 2005 Elantra xactky as you described. Got the part from autozone. Thank you. Great video
John Urban what part exactly? I’m trying to fix my 2013 Elantra
MarissaAnne Tucker www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/96885-05730633.html?DN&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+Hyundai+Elantra+Carbon+Canister+Standard+Motor+Products+CP3521+11-16+Hyundai+Carbon+Canister+2015+2014&fp=pp&gbm=a&PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=833170039584%3A%3Apla-833170039584&kid=833170039584&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0NfvBRCVARIsAO4930mTQ8W7LYu9clZ-M6IqAkAuy4qxtTkvy5t3OHSZx9Opawxgjvcm1CYaAsddEALw_wcB
MarissaAnne Tucker www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/119818-05835391.html?DN&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+Hyundai+Elantra+Vapor+Canister+Purge+Solenoid+Genuine+28910+2E000+13-17+Hyundai+Vapor+Canister+Purge+Solenoid+2014+2015&fp=pp&gbm=a&PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=829684094129%3A%3Apla-829684094129&kid=829684094129&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0NfvBRCVARIsAO4930nhbrb3WlzEigHigVYMDTnrRwfpaeQNWtvkV9IHC_qSgUsQvlaBjO8aAg9fEALw_wcB
MarissaAnne Tucker both those parts are a fit for your 2013 elantra.
I've got a 2003 Elantra 2.4, 4 Door sedan gls. The car ran great until I stopped at a gas station and only put 6 dollars of gas in it. I started the car up and put it in drive then gentlely press the accelerator. The engine started shaking then died out after moving 3 feet. It hasn't started back up sense. What could be wrong? It will start with starting fluid but no response when accelerated in park? Videos state that the cam position sensor could be bad and commanding the ECU not to run the fuel pump. I can hear it turn on though when the key is turned to start the engine. If it has a high pressure pump at the engine I can't find it or the connection on the fuel rail to check fuel pressure? I'm stuck at this point?
In my 2004 KIA Optima, I just replaced my crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer. This was the second time I was in there, as I replaced every timing component in there just 90 days ago. The HB fixed the shaking at stop lights, which I would some times damoen by putting car in neutral.
But my car was and is still not revving properly, stalls and wants to die at lower speeds. It happens as I shift down, right at 33mph, slowing down. Once it starts stalling after slowing speed, it doesn't rev up to gain speed properly. I cam gas it and kind of make it go but the car moght only increas speed at about 1mph every 10 seconds. The longer I drive, the worse it gets, it seems-- I test drove my car for about am hour tonight, after replacing the HB and crank sensor and that's when the symptoms began, same as before.
My crank sensor was cracked when I did the timing but I had to use it because it was about midnight when I did the timing parts.
So, when the stalling and rev problems started, my guy said crank sensor. There was a code for it, and I knew it was cracked, so I figured he was right.
So, for about an hour I thought I had fixed all those problems but I haven't.
Now with new timing parts, crank sensor and harmonic balancer...
I think my problem might be one of those mentioned in this video.
I'm broke so fixing it is my only option-- I can't possibly afford a new car.
I hope I can figure it out. Thank you for making and sharing this video.
You're welcome. Just think it's free to do this check and free to empty the canister in the back. Just a bit of your time to test it. Hopefully your issue can get fixed!
@@HypnoticLoveBath I replaced the crank sensor and harmonic balancer, which helped the vibrations a lot.
But in the end, it was a bad ignition coil. $38 and 5 minutes of wrenching. I'm going to check/replace the box you're showing in this video, though, just to learn it.
my friend had these issues with his lincoln. i said had. he watched your video and now his car is fine. it was the tank vent solenoid.
when filling a car tank,first click,do not keep adding fuel.Do not round off dollar amount
Never mind, I didn't realize the question was already answered. Thanks again.
Whats that sensor called? (the one in the center of the shot at around 2:52) the plastic is cracked on mine.
Looks like the idle air control valve.
I couldn't find purge valve until I met you
Would the same thing happen when cruising loss of power then depress clutch then it idles
Hello sir I have Tucson that does at idle so what could it be
THANK YOU SO MUCH I DID REMOVE THE CANISTER AND KEPT ON DRAINING THE GAS IN SIDE IT . IT HAS MORE THEN ONE CUP .LET IT DRAIN OVER NIGHT ..CAR IS RUNNING FINE SINCE THEN .NOW I AM NOT FILLING THE TANK FULL .I THANK YOU AGAIN .
+Akram Malik Just to clarify, you removed the evap canister located at the rear end of the car correct?
+Akram Malik first click of the pump,never add more fuel,people insist on making it a round number.
But what can cause it to stall when on motion, engine hot, in gear and brake pedal depressed but wouldn't stall when the same car is on motion, engine hot, in neutral transmission this time and brake pedal depressed?
The car is 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS with an automatic transmission. The Mechanic have replaced a fuel pump but
is not working. Problem still persist. What should I do?
Car was not communicating with scantool.
02 GT, Car runs fine until I get to a stop light. Idle is about 700RPM, I've been having to rev the engine to 4,000RPM's and let the clutch out slowly so the car won't stall when I leave from a stop? It only seems to do it after the car has warmed up. Sometimes I push on the gas to leave from a stop and for a second it feels like the car has no power at all, then it takes off just fine???
My problem exactly
BradK same think with mine what was the issue??
i have a 2004 hundai elantra and whrn i get to a certain rpm it does this jerking motion like something is about to fall out of the bottom. what does that mean?
Please i need HELP!
My car is stalling! Only when I come to a slow down or stop it will stall but I'm able to restart it again what could it be??
Laurie Southard same thing is happening to me are you having lack of engine power as well when accelerating?
@@hostelowner yes....i did went to the shop the cause of stalling was low or no oil, the car was stalling so the engine wouldn't Seize up! It's running perfect, after a oil change
What kind of car?? My bro in laws is doin the same thing his is a 98 hyundai accent
@@relok_8056 2017 Hyundai Elantra, it's fixed NOW, it was because there was LOW to NO OIL in the engine! The car would stall when you accelerated and shut off so that the engine didn't cease and lock up pretty smart if I say so that's why soon as I went a mile it would stall and shut off but the engine light would not come on or the oil light it would lose its lights when it stalled and the battery engine light would come on I took it to the mechanic right after and thank God they were good and didn't lie to me and it had little to no oil in the car would stall out to let you know there's a problem and not let you keep driving it so the engine did it cease up and lock cost me 40 bucks for oil change and she's been running great
YES...ME TOO
Car Died Driving at 70 mph has spark but will not start. ? What could be the coze this to happen ?
Can that cannister cause the vehicle to run and stop
when I disconnected the purge valve on my 2005 Hyundai santa fe the car didn't stall any more,could it be a bad purge valve thanks bob
My car eangin shack when i stop, so what is the problem, it hyundai elandra 2005
if your evap canister is a victim of overfill, the only thing that works is to replace and then purge the line from engine to canister ... nothing else will work for long in my experience
Bad info, you must own a parts store
@@michaelangelo6378 - NOT true ... if the canister is filled with fuel, there is no way to regenerate it and must be replaced and return line must be purged ...
When gas is cheap at reservation gas station I pack as much gas in as I can, till it up to fill neck. Gas will be dripping from canister. O4 Elantra 186,000 miles and never a problem. Didn't change original timing belt till 150,000 miles and old belt probably could of went another 100,000 miles. These cars are tanks unless you beat the crap out of them. Apparently you don't understand how an EVAP canister works and neither does guy who made this video.
whats the name of the part that I have change? Is it the vapor vent valve or the vapor canister purge valve?
Would like to know
nice guy the way he explained the issue s , was a nice way. you hit the target..thank you
Were there any engine codes associated with the engine sputtering condition? I just got a p0172 System too Rich (Bank 1) code on my 2004 Elantra, which sounds like it could be related to excess fuel from the evap canister, but my car hasn't started sputtering.
If I remember, I did get that code.
Hey, Im having simliar issue with my hyundai sonata 2.4l but it doesnt like to start the first try. Usually rough once it starts but not always. sometimes it starts right away strong. I have changed plugs, timing belt, oil. I dont think it is a coil pack because it doesnt really run that bad. barely under 1000 rpms. Not sure where i should looks next.
also just about to hit 100k
Brett Forguson Did you ever figure out what was wrong?
I ordered a wire plug that i think is the problem. I'll update you once it gets here.
Brett Forguson Check the Fuel pressure regulator, That fixed the problem with the starting, on mine, but still need to find what I think is a vacuum problem.
this happened to my wifes 01 i watched this after i disconnected the wires and it was nice to hear that is would still run without, has the check engine light but runs great now! my first code was saying it was the o2 sensor. but that is explained if it was running rich. thanks for the video!
I'm currently having this issue but not stalling or dying it's hard to start after running car for a hour drive then putting gas in it I have to hold have to hold gas down to keep it running then it stays I changed purge valve still reads insufficient flow
Hello. First, sorry for my bad English)) So, Initially the problem was starting the engine at gas stations. The car drives fine before refueling, you turn off the engine, refuel, but after it was a problem with starting the engine. I replaced the absorber valve, the problem disappeared. After that I changed the timing belt, and now my Elantra die while driving, especially in hot day, and especially in traffic jams and on the low speed. I already changed fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, cleaned the throttle and idle speed sensor. No one were useful. Pleas share your skills if you have…?
Hi please give me a solution. I have Hyundai Elantra 2005. Yesterday after driving 18miles on highway, engine started to sound like a old tractor and it was loosing power as I keep pushing the gas peddle. Soon engine shutdown but it starts again after 20 mins. Today I drove it for 1 mike and the engine heat measuring meter in dashboard went to high but eventually it goes down when the car is put in neutral. So when I put on gear the engine gets hot, stumbles and dies within 3 miles but on neutral, engine cools down. I just cleaned mass flow sensor, radiator no leaks, fans are working, radiator water does not jumps out which happens in case of head gasket broken, no water mixture in engine oil. What could be the problem. Please help!
What were your ohms when you checked both of those sensors or I should say all three of them
this was happening to my parents 2002 Hyundai elantra and they could never figure it out. ended up only getting 500 trade in. but it is now happening to my 2002 kia optima. And they have similar engine specs, make and model trim and design, etc.. so I am wondering how to ohm out the TPS as you say? If it is "ohm." I assume with a multimeter but what prongs would I use and what am I actually checking for?
James Thebeau did this fixed the problem on your kia?
Not sure if it will, I haven't been able to touch it. But I do have an air leak in my intake somewhere around the throttle body. NOt sure if its inside it but I also get air in the coolant cycle I have to burp every so often. So I am assuming it has to do with the air leak and maybe not the tps. But I have heard from everybody its the tps
Hello I really need help with my car's problem. i use a hyundai elantra 2009 model.. anytime i start the car and it is idle mode, the rpm is at 1000rpms, when i change to drive mode, it drops to about just 200rpms and when i step on the accellerator, the rpm goes up and suddenly drops to zero and engine dies.. kindly assist me as this is really causing inconvenience for me. fuel economy has also dropped drastically
How do u test the ohms for the items u mentioned and what ohm should it be at? I have a harbor freight digital multi tester. Thx
+Jake Thomas Look it up online,its a easy procedure
I'm trying to learn all I can. I just bought me a 2013 Hyundai Elantra and every now and then if my foot is on the break or put in park while still running my car would hesitate or shut off while standing still.
Check your oil. Are your Rpm's
At 600 to 1,000 while idling?
I have no clue about nothing you just said. Idk how to check my RPM and thank you for replying back
Thanks I think that is what is wrong with my wife's *99 Elantra I went the same way you did cleaned the MAF sensor ran better but still stalls a lights intermittently. have trouble filling it with gas all goes back to vapor recovery charcoal canister Thanks again Lee
Awesome video! What were the Ohm readings on all the sensors you tested. I have 3 different readings. Not sure of names, purge was 25/Fuel regulator was 28/air regulator was 1009 (which I thought was high) and could not get a read on mass air flow sensor. Again, I am not sure about name of sensors I mentioned. Thanks
Car was doing this now it stalls even in drive or park it’s just less likely and the rpm jumps and makes a weird noise before stalling… replaced catalytic converter, spark, plugs, engine, you name it, clean, throttle body I’m thinking it gotta be a sensor or something
sir.good morning how r u i am anayat hope so ur mood be good and have a nice day i have problem kia optima 2004 model exhaust gas and smoke engine what should i do please comment on this as soon as possible that will great kindness thanks and god bless
I have a 04 Hyundai sonata and this happens constantly mostly when the temperature out side is 100+ and someone told me it was vapor lock could this be this issue on my car also and is it the same procedure
Ever figure this out? My Veloster Turbo 2016 does the same. I can even see fuel vapors being vented through the gas cap. But same, stalls at idle when temps are close to 100 in Las Vegas. Never did it in FL though.
How often should I change spark plugs and mass air flow sensor? Firestone changed these two things in 2017 at 132,000 miles. Car stopped while slowing down in freeway today and so fixd sensor tool didn't read my car after paying app store and doing everything on it but Scotty Kilmer says it could be 5 things wrong with it so, I ordered cam position sensor on Amazon, and selenoid somewhere else cuz Amazon wouldnt send it to my address. Question: Should all vehicle sensors including vtt selenoid be ordered with Hyundai? Or okay on Amazon?
2004 Hyundai Elantra GT
I had the same issue on a friend’s kia.
The valve was opened always even with ignition off or disconnected. Also the fuel trims were negative indicating a rich condition, and in the fuel tank was always vacuum created. The situation was discovered after filling the fuel tank, after that the engine was running very bad, the spark plugs were black like I never saw.
After changing the valve everything went well.
For those who have the rich condition, never drive the car because is very probable to distroy the catalyctic converter.
What valve ?
@@johnk5590
Purge valve solenoid or something like that.
I have a friend who has a 2006 Elantra ...he is having problems with it stalling bellow 3000 RPM ...he says he can crank the car up and as long as he holds the gas down and keeps it at 3000 RPM and above it will keep running but as soon as he lets up off the throttle it sputters and cuts off ...it never had done this until he replaced the head gasket and now he cant keep it running ...any ideas on what may be the problem ?
big c it was the evap Purge control valve I had the same issue
what is the name of the module in video attached to the intake it is the gray one with the three wires going to it mine is cracked and nobody seems to know what its called or where I can find this part
thanks
todd
+Todd Sibley
It's the Idle Speed Actuator (ISA) which goes directly into the intake. It's also called Idle Air Control valve (IAC)
2004 elantra. Mine will die in most of the circumstances you described. Would another instance that the car would die on me is if I drive it for an hour or so, the next time I try to start it will be difficult. Could that be the same problem with the canister?
Scotty Kilmer utube!
On my 01 Elantra it was the connector just below distributor.
Weird, my 01 elantra has a coil pack. How's you get a distributo
my 2009 hyundai tucson dies while pressing the brake ready to stop on the stop light, and also on the parking ready to get out from the car and i never turn off yet the key but the engine dies, do you think they got the same symptoms?
Exactly the same problem here
my 2004 Elantra has done this twice now. First time it did this,car would shake and shut off and not start. Turned out exhaust and fuel tank needed to be changed. 8 months later today,same thing happen. Seemed like car would have a hard time getting gas when i pressed on the pedal,it would run and slowly die. It would start up again and it would run abit and once i gave it gas,it would slowly die. What could it be? is it even worth fixing anymore?
Selenoid and cam position sensor?
Does this method apply for Kia Rio also???
I have a 2004 elantra and my engine die when i use the air con for like 30 minutes u think is the same problem as yours?
That’s my car I don’t know what to do
thank you for that info ill try it.i put it on a diagnostic tester and it said it was retorted timing or the o2 sensors were bad upper and lower or exhaust leak or catilitic convertor were do i start to narrow down the problem without spending an arm and leg and first born?
Angela Olson
Must someone leave the e-valve cannister to stay over night before reconnecting? Why not one hour or two hours.
I have a 01 accent and had replace the evap canister cause the tubes coming out of it rusted and broke. Since putting on the new one every time I get gas it will inly fill a few cents and clicks off. Driving a few days ago it stalled while at a low speed and continues to do so. Do you think if I removed the canister and let it air out that would help? Thanks for the video.
I had this issue with one of my elantras and it was that the tubes coming from the evap canister were filled with charcoal pellets and blocking the flow of air/vapor. The pellets were leaking from the canister because the foam filter that holds them back had broken down. I had to make sure to clear all of those pellets and repair the canister with some foam I had and the problem was fixed. Your post was a while ago, so hopefully you have resolved the problem, but if not, make sure those tubes are clear of any debris.
I have an 04 Hyundai Elantra and it's doing the same thing so you said to unplug it in the front do I do it hot or cold should I do it while it's running or off thank you
You can do it while it's off to prevent any electrical arcing when you pull the connector. Careful not to burn yourself if it's hot still. When you test it, just drive it normally to operating temperature and if you don't have any more stalling issues that was most likely the problem. It only injects the charcoal canister fumes when the coolant is up to operating temperature.
@@HypnoticLoveBath thanks that helped
Just like to add this - i fixed my erratic idle 01 elantra - made paper gasket and blocked off ISC
Now runs perfect.
Hello and great videoe. I have an 05 Elantra w/ same engine. Keep getting a p0507 which is idle too high. Change TPS, MAF sensor, Idle control valve, throttle body, and even the intake manifold gasket. I checked for leaks too. It doesn't stall it just surges up to 1500 rpms and then bounces between 1500 and 2000 rpms by itself. It only does this in park/neutral but once in gear it always drops to 1000rpms. Any thoughts, Im going crazy and dodging cops with an old inspection sticker? Please help.
I had similar issue on my 2000 accord - for me it was dirty idle air control valve, that was getting stuck. Part costed I belive 200 or 300$ , but good cleaning did the job for me. Hope this helps
lifetrilly did you finally figure this out? I am having the same problem on my 06 Kia Spectra...which is the same engine...thanks!
Nathan Bradshaw yes. It was IAC. I brought one from Advanced and it didn't work. I then returned it and got an exchange n then idle returned normal n code went away. Try new IAC, clean throttle body with TB cleaner, and also smoke intake with seafoam
lifetrilly Thanks for the quick reply - I found one at OReillys for $115, dealer wants $225. Putting the new one from OReillys in today - will post here on how it goes...
My issue was the IAC...replaced it and it fixed the issue. Also replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires...car is now running great!
i changed the spark plugs on my 03 elantra and noticed the black coat on the old ones..but the car still shakes at idle...what should i look for next?
Idle air control motor.
My car's been doing the exact same thing. The vibration caused by low RPM is causing the engine to run horribly, and at times, stall on me as I attempt to go, and this is occurring with no AC on, and with brand new spark plugs & wires installed.
great video.very informative sir thank you
do you connect the thing back when you let the gas run out?
Is this the same with the sonatas?
yup
Mines doing this as well
My 2015 hydundai elantra cuts off when i slow down my oil light came on an it was low in oil but its full now an it flashes at idle speed whats wrong
Johnny Murphy probably low oil pressure.
have '04 Elantra Gt. Im about to change out the ignition coil pack. getting alot of hesitation..and stalling. ill try your method if that doesnt work
How much is mechanic charging for labor on that ignition coil?
I have a 2007 Hyundai elantra....I just put new fuel pump on..
and it still won't start can someone help
how to remove the lean burn system permanently?
Does a taco posed to come out of the canister
These cars shut off if the oil is low as well hope that helps
Que afecta q el vehiculo no arranca cuando esta frio elantra 2001
it likely your throttle body has a carbon build up,upsetting minimum airflow,the idle speed motor may also be all carbon up.Clean out with a good spray,check the EGR system too.It supposed to flare momentary on decell,stopping,AC on,if the airflow is restricted,also it should flare on a cold start,if not ,it very well could be carbon build up.Airflow is critical
Did you have missfire?
Good job man....nice tires by the way
Awsome!!! Tried this on my elentra 03 and it worked! Great vid .. continue to share knowledge on yt for us!! #thanks
good video man 80000 in my when I put it in reverse it dies sometimes but idles normal no codes or lights what you think
Dash d
Hi, i love your video. I have a 2009 Elantra, it works well, but does not change gears , it stays in gear 1 and refuses to change. How can i fix it. Thanks for your response.
Hello I have a 2004 Elantra it's putt putting when I mash the gas pedal it don't drive smoothly and at stop lights it act like it wanna cut off until I mash on gas pedal
It could be your automatic transmission is low on ATF. Try add ATF to your gearbox.
My 2003 Elantra tries to die at idle when I drive it I lose power as I hit the gas it won't go over 3,000 RPMs I don't know how to fix it anybody have any kind of answer would be awesome I have to have this car for work everyday
Will the canister eventually evaporate or discard the excess fuel if it has any inside? I wonder if it will just so that I dont have to remove it. i always top off the fuel tank at every fill and will discontinue doing that now that I've seen your video. Thanks for the tips.
My car Elentra 2004 it start daily very nicely but it hesitating between 30 to 40 miles like misfire then it will be normal after 45 miles I driver it every day no code no check engine light just this problems hope some one can help me ,,I change spark plugs,,coil,ignitions wires thank u
its the air mass flow sensor my 2005 Kia Sedona misfires some times and doesn't get enough airflow hopefully it's just dirty
How much does it costs to clean out mass air flow sensor?
You are the man Our car started doing this after i topped of the gas tank a few days ago. I thought it was water in the fuel. How long does it take to resolve itself if I do not pull all of that off is the question?
It will probably take a very long time or not even ever resolve itself. Basically all the gas that has accumulated inside the canister needs to evaporate through your EVAP system, which if that would happen, then the problem wouldn't exist. So in this case it accrued more liquid fuel than fuel vapors, which it should usually only have fuel vapors. Eventually instead of venting fuel vapors into the intake manifold to be burned, it started venting liquid fuel which greatly increased the mixture resulting in the rough running or the engine shutting off.
HypnoticLove i have the same problem, what should i do to fix it?
You could be in a fuel tank overfill condition as well ... your charcoal canister might be filled with fuel and need to be replaced - When the pump clicks to stop ... STOP filling your tank!
thanks i have a 2002 hyundai sante fe that keeps cutting off
🎇 ive got same issue with Kia aedona 03. i hope this will fix ISSUE. thanks Dude.
great video man thanks
I love it.
Your video is nice
Hyundai elantra j2 model 1998
Bahasanya pakai engglist.gak ada bahasa indonesianya.
Mardito habla español que no te entiendo