You are probably the most knowledgeable person reviewing fragrances on You Tube. It's always a pleasure listening to you describing perfumes. You made purchase Moth and you are absolutely right, it is a a piece of art. Greetings from Las Vegas!
I buy Shoyeido incense each time I visit Japan, it's just so elegantly balance and burns beautifully and it makes a terrific gift to bring back for loved ones. The incense of my teen years bears no resemblance to high-quality Japanese incense so I always encourage people to start with Japanese incense, not any other kind and certainly not the revolting fruit scented stuff sold in markets next to bongs and tie-dyed t-shirts. I've never tried Interlude Black Iris, so I will look out for it now. Thanks Tommy :)
I got frustrated not knowing exactly what frankincense and myrrh smelled like, so when I saw a bar of raw Shea Moisture Frankinsense and Myrrh soap, I just had to buy it!! Beautiful. Im so glad it put the pieces of the puzzle together for me.
MOTH!!! 🖤🖤🖤 (you knew I'd be here when you said MOTH).... Ok, Thomas - though it's hot and muggy as hell outside your video forced me to spray a little Opium EDP, against all reason. Why let it sit till December, I say... I still have Lou Lou on my list of must-haves.... M/MINK: "You smell odd as hell." 🤪😂 Hope you're happy and healthy!
I was literally looking up incense perfumes a couple of days ago after buying an incense essential oil, nice to get a list from my favourite perfume youtuber 😀
My favourite was always Avignon, until I smelled Ma Nishtana. Ma Nishtana is a masterpiece that I can wear any time of the year by the way. 🖤 Love the video. Incense notes are my absolute favourite.
Thank you for the new video! I have in my collection Opium, L’Agent and LouLou. LouLou was getting compliment after compliment! Please, if you ever consider to review My Sin by Lanvin.. it would be awesome to hear your opinion 😌
Thanks for going over the many types of incense! I burn incense myself and I'm happy to see a reviewer actually talk about the nuances of incense in each of these fragrances. Regarding the word "oriental", my feelings towards it is similar to how you were talking about how some reviewers simply use "incense." I think it's an outdated, blanket term that lumps together many countries and geographical locations that have little in common with each other (both in culture and in scents). I just think there are more descriptive ways to describe the way a fragrance smells. It makes me think about how an instant ramen brand that is distributed in the U.S. used to have an Oriental flavor, which was incredibly vague. It could have tasted like seaweed, or cumin, or star anise, etc. (They eventually changed it to "Soy Sauce" flavor, which is much more helpful.) Also, the Société Française des Parfumeurs (SFP) and the Osmothèque actually don't use that word as a scent category. A representative from the Osmothèque had confirmed with me that they use "Amber Family" instead of oriental as their official classification.
I see your point which is why I would never say this fragrance is “oriental” and leave it at that. Oriental refers to the overall style of the perfume like chypre, or fougere, it’s much more complex than that. I can see it’s a blanket term though, and I view it directly as a fragrance term. Maybe I should look deeper. 👍 I don’t think fragrances in this style can be called “amber” because again it’s much more complex than that. I certainly don’t wish to start any wars or offend people. :)
@@ouch110 I appreciate your response, Thomas. I've been watching your reviews for quite some time and I definitely don't think you're the type of person who'd want to offend others. I think it is possible to have a healthy discussion about the word oriental. I know some are worried about not being able to use a word anymore. But what I think is more important than just stopping the use of a word is to learn about the historical context of it. (A good place to start is Edward Said's book Orientalism.) Just blindly deciding to stop using the word without self-educating is also problematic and can come off as performative. I'd have to agree with you on the word "amber", as it doesn't seem to capture the complexity of many fragrances. I think there are some perfumers like Yosh Han and reviewers who are trying to come up with alternatives.
@@yvespiderssmells9956 definitely about educating yourself I agree! As someone who has had the word queer to describe me in a negative way lots of times only to have to deal with it now being used as a blanket term and “the norm” by the younger generation as a positive I totally get it. I know it’s not exactly the same but I hope you know what I mean. That term is derogatory and has been very painful for a lot of people, now it’s used in a different way by people who didn’t go through that struggle. I will deffo do some research and get to grips! 😁
Yeah, what "amber family" does even mean? Absolutely nothing. Absolutely not descriptive. While "oriental" scent actually makes all the sense to us who are into perfume. People have stopped making any sense with their pc attempts years ago, and it's been getting soooo much worse recently. Absolutely disgusting.
Hello! Got a sample of "L’eau Trois" I have natural frankincense and myrrh resins. When I burn them on a charcoal, on a piece of aluminum foil - I got the same smell as the "L’eau Trois"! Identical! Smells natural. If you are into gothic, ancient, spiritual, churchy vibes - definitely worth buying, in this case - its safe to blind buy. Really impressed with "L’eau Trois" Great work!
Everyone leaves out the most beautiful fragrance of the 80s it’s the original Poison from Christian Dior it’s dry down has such a gorgeous incensey and Smokey veil that surrounds the wearer it is so intoxicating and sensual.
On fragrantica I will start reviewing… I’ve been very apprehensive because I’m a newbie but I want to express the journey these fragrances take me on, rather than notes etc. awesome video
Damn i searched for a video made by you where you talk about l´Air du desert marocain and your new video comes up and you are talking about this scent, cool!
Such a pleasure watching this incensy video 🤩 incense = church, monastery. That's why I have La liturgie des heures, Jovoy. But, as I have mentioned many times, I do prefer Lavs, Unum and Encens Superfluide, Les Eaux Primordial 🥰🥰
I have just tried Amouage Rose incense. Oh my gosh. It is beyond amazing. Please, try it if you haven't yet. Thank you for another fab video. Love incense too xx
Tom! Such a pleasure watching you talking about one of my favourite accords! I particularly enjoy smelling the cathedral kind. Now I want them all! There is one that I've treasured for years and it is Chaos by Donna Karan. Have you trued it? And there is another which I associate with incense: Loewe 7. Thanks a lot for this video!
Opium came out in 77 it was revolutionary nothing matched it every woman in the world wanted it. In those days it was very expensive. I got a bottle duty free for my mom in 82 and it cost £25.😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
Funny story, I used to work in a shop that sold 500 perfumes and we also sold Mendittorosa, ya know Osang was my least favourite perfume in the whole shop lmao!!! True. I can’t get past that fenugreek note :(
I’m so glad you did this video. Whenever I see the note of incense I’m always hoping for some thing like you would smell in a magic shop but it’s almost always church style incense lol. The team at Luckyscent did an IG live where they touched on the use of the term oriental that was interesting. Might be worth checking out. Thanks again for another awesome video!
Deffo try scherezade by black Phoenix it’s so so good! There’s also another one called gothic bluebell bu union which dries exactly like a joss stick! It’s hard to find though which Is why I don’t have it argh!
I ment to say that in the old days 60s 70s 80s high end fragrances really got exposure to the general public because at that time the world was full of little privately owned chemists that would mostly have a lot desplayed in cabinets. 😀
The fuss about the word “oriental” in reference to perfume upsets me and I find it hysterical. It just means “of the east”- something spicy like Coco. Anyway intriguing list. I have a sample of Moth and I really like it but I am going to revisit. I may just buy that Agent Provocateur one because it’s cheap.. Also a while back I was looking up a perfume by Pierre Guillaume called Indochine which you reviewed 7 years ago. I am a little sad you didn’t like it because I adore it and will rock it in Fall. It is resinous and smooth- just gorgeous- and a touch incensy itself. It reminds me a bit of another resin-fest I have that is one of my top 10- Oppoponax by Les Néréides. Anyway very interesting video:-)
As someone who admires you, I felt okay with playfully saying that I like your jester-chic sweater 😆 Jester-chic making a comeback in 2021 😉 Dang it, I know I was joking, but now I’m wondering if there really *IS* jester-chic. There is goblin-core, cottage-core, dark academia 🤔
Very enjoyable video, thank you! I love incense as a note. I do not have any Zoologist fragrances in my collection, though. Which ones are your top 3-5? Bee, Moth, Camel, and.... Also, if I may be so bold to ask, Thom, where did you get the user name Ouch or Ouch110? Just curious. :)
1. Moth 2.Camel 3. Nightingale 4. Bee 5. Sloth. yayyyy! Ahh the name isn't anything special it's just an old email I had and now I feel like it's too late to change haha.
Camel is THE BEST Zoologist! but omg man, M/Mink is so utterly insane, to me it smells like someone tried to clean a unrinal at a fish market with some kind of gourmand smelling cleaner.. I get jittery and nauseous just thinking about smelling it LOL
The Impossible Brief to a perfumer: "Hi, I'm after a sophisticated, beautifully blended, gothic perfume for my 30 year old cousin. She's a well-travelled, well-read very feminine woman with a hugely obvious gothic aesthetic who loves flowers and the countryside and mornings just as much as midnight mass so I'd like something that smells of a church in Italy but at the exact same time, something very floral and feminine without merging with the incense to such a point that the fragrance smells nauseating...is that possible, do you think you could do that, can such a fragrance even exist?" Response: 'Uh hell YEAH it can. Try 'Baiser de Florence' by Ella K.
Bee may be hands down my favorite fragrance ever! Yes - the dry down is freaking amazing - The opening is great too...But, the dry down...Does any other scent have quite as complex of a reveal as that...? I'm asking for real...lol
There must be something, plenty of fragrances reveal beautiful things but really? None that I can think of right now, and Bee? Well..that one is enough for me! hehe. So gooooooood!
Oh! Lol I just thought of another one. Dame Perfumery’s Monsoon. It starts out like your walking on the Earth and then plunging into the water! It’s not a “blue” scent, it literally smells like wet…wetness? Wow, I’m not great at describing things. Haha. It’s complex, in the dry down, but also really different from t he first spray. Yet, wearable. It’s labeled as an animalic Amber, but I don’t think that fits. Dame Perfumery has everything blending like a high end niche. There isn’t a blast of anything. Yet, it’s really affordable prices. Ironically, I think that’s why he never became main stream. He prices things so low, I feel some might be turned off thinking it must not be well done or good quality. A must try! www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Dame-Perfumery/Monsoon-45406.html
I am only seeing this now, but thank you!! It is really frustrating trying to figure out what a reviewer means when they say "incense-y"? Is it the resin or burning incense smell? Is it Frankincense-myrrh? Is it bakhoor? Is it incense sticks like in a headshop? Lol. Great video😊
I needed this video! Thank you. So well done. So many ideas on what to try. What type of incense would you consider Gypsy Water by Byredo? Pretty Please. It's such an easy reach to wear. And my only incense perfume point of reference so far.
The discussion about the word oriental is an interesting one. It conveys a stereotype of exoticism that, when applied to people, is inappropriate and possibly even dangerous. However, when applied to a category of perfumes, stereotyping the group of perfumes is kinda the point.
I think you definitely have a point there. Maybe people who would be affected by the oriental stereotype might still detect a harmful connection when it's used for fragrance though. I heard somewhere that in France you would just refer to the fragrance family as "Amber Fragrances", which feels more accurate.
I’m looking for Myrrh prominent fragrances, any suggestions? I’m not particularly fond of Vanilla or gourmand notes. Thank You In Advance! P.s. L’Autre Oud Eau de Parfum by Lancôme has quickly become my favorite Myrrh fragrance so far, even though it is usually listed as an Oud/Rose, the Myrrh is quite prominent from first spray till dry down. Excellent projection, silage and longevity as well!
If you can get a sample, I have to insist that you try Mortal Skin from Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777. It’s ink, blackberry and incense. Completely unique and stunning.
Someone on basenotes proposed changing "oriental" to "euriental" which I thought was clever, as these fragrances reflect a move by western perfumers to use eastern materials, reflecting a european vision of an exoticized east. A possible replacement
Hi, I was wondering if you would be able to help me with Champaca fragrances? I used to wear Champaca by Space NK and they discontinue it. I bought up as many bottles as I could but have sadly run out now. Do you know that scent and do you know anything similar to that scent? Any help greatly appreciated!
Dear Thomas , I have one question : which one from this list is MOST similar to TF Sahara Noir ( my bottle is half vol - I start to panic 😄) ? 🤔🤔🙋🏼♀️🌷
Lovely video, you’ve piqued my interest about Junkie! Will you review Boy Smells? I think Violet Ends from there would perhaps fit into this category, or at least near it. Very intensely smoky and overbearing. I always get compliments from men when I wear it, especially if I pair it with Lust by Lush.
Hi, i recently purchased MiN New York - vol3 Stardust. It was discontinued in Harrods so i got it for a decent price..but the brand is American. I am literally mesmerised by this perfume. I would like to hear your opinion about it because i am confused about it! Not sure if it made any sense :)
Oh fab! I just got chapel factory holy stick and I love it. It made me want to explore incense more. I ended up selling my casbah so I thought I couldn’t do incense. So wrong. And I love amouage interlude… so many different ways to enjoy it. So perfectly timed. Not perfect for my bank balance though….. 🤦🏼♀️🥰
I came here after your LUSH perfume video, and I was really hoping a LUSH perfume may make the list, as they're accessible for me, and vegan perfume can be hard to find. I'm new to perfume and am still trying to learn what it is that I like in a perfume. I love sandlewood, cedarwood, smoky notes, a hint of sweetness from vanilla, black pepper, patchouli (yes, I like Lord of Misrule!) I want to smell like an old church, and am looking for my signature scent. Is there anything you would recommend?
I discovered your channel about a month ago and I've been hooked ever since. I love how you describe the perfumes, you make me want to try your favorites bc we have the same taste, I love different and spicy (oriental) type scents. I, especially, can't wait to experience Zoologist, which I had never heard of! Please never stop doing what you do!! 💜💜
Have you tried Incense flash by A Tauer and Mandala by Masque Milano?.... Tuberose flash by Tauer is also exceptional and quite inexpensive.... but not really incense, just spicy delicious tuberose.....
I was always told that referring to an object - like a rug or a perfume - was fine, but never to refer to a person or culture as such. Should we say Occidental instead? I mean, it just means "East" or "of the East", as opposed to the West. It's not a word I use that often, anyways, unless I'm referring to the Orientalist tradition of art. I understand that a lot of those artists were rich, white European Colonials, but I hope that we're not trying to rename that. It is what is is, for bad and for good. (I feel like the ones who wag the fingers the most are cis-gender white people. Full disclosure - me). Edit to add: I guess in my own categorization "incense" and "spice" categories have replaced "oriental" when it comes to fragrance. I need to get on top of those Zoologist ones!
The confusing thing is that 'Asian' in Australia means 'Far East Asian' but if you use the word in the UK it normally means Indian, Bangladeshi or Pakistani. I think 'Far East Asian' is an awkward mouthful :D I wish I could settle on a word that is understood in both hemispheres! I could be wrong, but in Canada and the United States, Asian also means Far East Asian...wait, no...would 'Indian' be confusing also, considering American Indians are an established indigenous group. What do you call a 2nd generation Indian guy as he most likely doesn't casually refer to himself as 'American Indian'? How do Americans differentiate between American Indian and Continental Indian? What words are commonly used in conversation the The States? Argh. So many ways to put your foot in it these days, not due to lazy ignorance but because of how words have different connotations and even meanings in different countries. I try not to knee-jerk in response to people, y'know, generating synthetic outrage in such haste as well as being defensive on behalf of a group or stranger, and look at what TRULY offends or upsets me instead of anything that's part of an ideological dogma or new socio-political trend. All that would be due to the habit so many younger people have these days, which is to learn and then parrot received wisdom with a jarring kind of emotional intensity and incontinence. Also, motive, tone and intent counts for a great deal in these incendiary times. (I agree with the 'finger wagging people' observation you made. I just wouldn't have used 'cis-gendered white people' when making the point myself as it's not part of my personal vernacular but the sentiment of your comment I totally agree with. I'd be curious what you make of Zoologist once you finish your exploration of the house. Fort & Manle and Tauer are my love affair at the moment...olfactory polyamory. ;) A bouncy happy little dumpling of a phrase. :D
@@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293 In school in the '70s and '80s I still heard "Indian" to refer to "Native Americans" - which was the preferred term at the time I think? Now that people know more about their actual lineage, the more larger tribe is referred to (i.e. Navajo, Ottawa, Seminole, Sioux). I trip up now and then and say First Nations because I'm used to listening to Canadian podcasts (that term has always sounded most "natural" to me, but it is specific to Canada). I used to say "Asian Indian" to differentiate when I was growing up. It is all very clunky right now. But I am always willing to learn and correct myself. (I only used cis-gender white as an example of the more modern way of referring to oneself. I should have put it in quotes. I am still getting used to it all myself.) Again, where I am at, I am limited in my access to Zoologist fragrances so I'm still waiting to save up enough to order a sample set to try.
@@ableaktether I hope you'll pop back one day and let me know which Zoologist scent you fell in love with. I have a few of theirs as samples but I find them underwhelming on my skin, given the stunning packaging and brand concept. (note: the animal-Victoriana 'thing' was HUGE around the world about a decade ago, wasn't it? Shame Victor couldn't have beaten everybody and got there first with this striking visual, y'know, just made it a Zoologist thing.) Oh! A Fort & Manle discovery set would be an excellent gift idea to put on your own list for the holiday season. Gorgeous fragrances, so moreish. Hope you have a terrific weekend. :)
Oriental is not a slur. It just means of the East, or to the east, and Occidental just means of the west, to the west. Anyone who objects to those words is reading something into it that isn't there.
To me, Oriental describes a region, not a people. It conveys so much in the perfume world that cannot be contained in any other single world. It would be a shame to lose it. Honestly Thomas, be glad you don’t live here in the USA. The word “police” will only stop when we are reduced to making grunting noises at each other. 🙄
Don’t let the PC, word police get to you. If it’s not in reference to a person, or people group, but to a region of the world, or things, it’s not offensive. We live in a time in which ppl look for things to be offended about...and quite frankly, that offends me😂 There comes a time when we have to stop changing the language and definitions based on some nonsense.
I love churchy incense, I recently bought "smoke of god" from Simone Andreoli, it is a bit similar to "La lithurgie des heures" from Jovoy. My obsession so far is Ethiopian incense, I just love it. Any suggestions?
Shalimar was the first oriental created in the 1920s. If some sjw is offended by it in 2021 it makes me want to use the word even more. ORIENTAL!! It is a fragrence catagory for the uneducated zombie hoard who wants to get offended by everything. If that "offends" you please take a look at ur life.. it might be time to re evaluate your priorities 🤦 -Ramsey
About time that the ever offended politically correct police threattened YOU, the most dangerous individual on the internet, to stop using the word "oriental" referring to perfumes or... or what? They'll have you banned from youtube? We're here to back you up. Let's just stop giving these lunatics what they want: attention.
Oh no it was just a healthy discussion about an article. “The word oriental is outdated but is it offensive”? That was the title. I need to read more about it. But we will see!
You are probably the most knowledgeable person reviewing fragrances on You Tube. It's always a pleasure listening to you describing perfumes. You made purchase Moth and you are absolutely right, it is a a piece of art. Greetings from Las Vegas!
Thanks so much! And yay for Moth. It makes me swoon all the time. :)
I agree Daniela-- this is one of the best fragrance-related channels out there. Fantastic.
My wife is Japanese and calls Interlude Black Iris the “temple smell” and I love it
I buy Shoyeido incense each time I visit Japan, it's just so elegantly balance and burns beautifully and it makes a terrific gift to bring back for loved ones. The incense of my teen years bears no resemblance to high-quality Japanese incense so I always encourage people to start with Japanese incense, not any other kind and certainly not the revolting fruit scented stuff sold in markets next to bongs and tie-dyed t-shirts. I've never tried Interlude Black Iris, so I will look out for it now. Thanks Tommy :)
My heart skipped a beat when I saw the title of this video. I still didn't watch it. I had to write this first! Haha I'll go and watch it now!💕💕💕
I got frustrated not knowing exactly what frankincense and myrrh smelled like, so when I saw a bar of raw Shea Moisture Frankinsense and Myrrh soap, I just had to buy it!! Beautiful. Im so glad it put the pieces of the puzzle together for me.
Damn! I was thinking it's too really in the year to do a video like this. That's why you're the man! ❤️ Incense is my favorite genre of perfumery.
MOTH!!! 🖤🖤🖤 (you knew I'd be here when you said MOTH).... Ok, Thomas - though it's hot and muggy as hell outside your video forced me to spray a little Opium EDP, against all reason. Why let it sit till December, I say... I still have Lou Lou on my list of must-haves.... M/MINK: "You smell odd as hell." 🤪😂 Hope you're happy and healthy!
I was literally looking up incense perfumes a couple of days ago after buying an incense essential oil, nice to get a list from my favourite perfume youtuber 😀
Opium is to die for! I have the new and the vintage versions. Lovely!
Ouch, the videos are fantastic just like you. I do have to watch more than once because it is so much information that you pass to us. I love it 🥰
I adore your presentations
My favourite was always Avignon, until I smelled Ma Nishtana. Ma Nishtana is a masterpiece that I can wear any time of the year by the way. 🖤 Love the video. Incense notes are my absolute favourite.
Your reviews are always interestin. Good hummor and fragances that are not the everybodies list! Keep it up
Thank you for the new video! I have in my collection Opium, L’Agent and LouLou. LouLou was getting compliment after compliment! Please, if you ever consider to review My Sin by Lanvin.. it would be awesome to hear your opinion 😌
“Thank you, good night!” 😂😂😂😂😂 Love it! 🙌🏻🤗😂😍
♥️ Lover all your videos! But this one ☝️ My favorite 😍 THANKS ☺️ you are the best 🤗👍🤗
Thanks for going over the many types of incense! I burn incense myself and I'm happy to see a reviewer actually talk about the nuances of incense in each of these fragrances. Regarding the word "oriental", my feelings towards it is similar to how you were talking about how some reviewers simply use "incense." I think it's an outdated, blanket term that lumps together many countries and geographical locations that have little in common with each other (both in culture and in scents). I just think there are more descriptive ways to describe the way a fragrance smells. It makes me think about how an instant ramen brand that is distributed in the U.S. used to have an Oriental flavor, which was incredibly vague. It could have tasted like seaweed, or cumin, or star anise, etc. (They eventually changed it to "Soy Sauce" flavor, which is much more helpful.)
Also, the Société Française des Parfumeurs (SFP) and the Osmothèque actually don't use that word as a scent category. A representative from the Osmothèque had confirmed with me that they use "Amber Family" instead of oriental as their official classification.
I see your point which is why I would never say this fragrance is “oriental” and leave it at that. Oriental refers to the overall style of the perfume like chypre, or fougere, it’s much more complex than that. I can see it’s a blanket term though, and I view it directly as a fragrance term. Maybe I should look deeper. 👍 I don’t think fragrances in this style can be called “amber” because again it’s much more complex than that. I certainly don’t wish to start any wars or offend people. :)
@@ouch110 I appreciate your response, Thomas. I've been watching your reviews for quite some time and I definitely don't think you're the type of person who'd want to offend others.
I think it is possible to have a healthy discussion about the word oriental. I know some are worried about not being able to use a word anymore. But what I think is more important than just stopping the use of a word is to learn about the historical context of it. (A good place to start is Edward Said's book Orientalism.) Just blindly deciding to stop using the word without self-educating is also problematic and can come off as performative.
I'd have to agree with you on the word "amber", as it doesn't seem to capture the complexity of many fragrances. I think there are some perfumers like Yosh Han and reviewers who are trying to come up with alternatives.
@@yvespiderssmells9956 definitely about educating yourself I agree! As someone who has had the word queer to describe me in a negative way lots of times only to have to deal with it now being used as a blanket term and “the norm” by the younger generation as a positive I totally get it. I know it’s not exactly the same but I hope you know what I mean. That term is derogatory and has been very painful for a lot of people, now it’s used in a different way by people who didn’t go through that struggle. I will deffo do some research and get to grips! 😁
I appreciate your perspective.
I’ve been self conscious of the term for several years now but was not sure what else to call the family of fragrance.
Yeah, what "amber family" does even mean? Absolutely nothing. Absolutely not descriptive. While "oriental" scent actually makes all the sense to us who are into perfume. People have stopped making any sense with their pc attempts years ago, and it's been getting soooo much worse recently. Absolutely disgusting.
Hello! Got a sample of "L’eau Trois" I have natural frankincense and myrrh resins. When I burn them on a charcoal, on a piece of aluminum foil - I got the same smell as the "L’eau Trois"! Identical! Smells natural. If you are into gothic, ancient, spiritual, churchy vibes - definitely worth buying, in this case - its safe to blind buy. Really impressed with "L’eau Trois" Great work!
I found a full bottle of Agent Provocateur for $40 a few weeks ago! From a boutique in Miami no less....
Going to add this agent to my Agent Provocateur family 😊🏵️
Oh my gosh!! You are making me want cooler weather (love the cool weather perfume, but hate cool weather). Beautiful list!
Everyone leaves out the most beautiful fragrance of the 80s it’s the original Poison from Christian Dior it’s dry down has such a gorgeous incensey and Smokey veil that surrounds the wearer it is so intoxicating and sensual.
On fragrantica I will start reviewing… I’ve been very apprehensive because I’m a newbie but I want to express the journey these fragrances take me on, rather than notes etc. awesome video
Damn i searched for a video made by you where you talk about l´Air du desert marocain and your new video comes up and you are talking about this scent, cool!
🤗🤗🤗👍🏻👍🏻🙋🏼♀️ thank you for this one - I was waiting for it 👍🏻🤗🙋🏼♀️
You are so welcome!
Such a pleasure watching this incensy video 🤩 incense = church, monastery. That's why I have La liturgie des heures, Jovoy. But, as I have mentioned many times, I do prefer Lavs, Unum and Encens Superfluide, Les Eaux Primordial 🥰🥰
I have just tried Amouage Rose incense. Oh my gosh. It is beyond amazing. Please, try it if you haven't yet. Thank you for another fab video. Love incense too xx
Such a great list! Thanks!
Tom! Such a pleasure watching you talking about one of my favourite accords! I particularly enjoy smelling the cathedral kind. Now I want them all! There is one that I've treasured for years and it is Chaos by Donna Karan. Have you trued it? And there is another which I associate with incense: Loewe 7. Thanks a lot for this video!
Hellooo! Ahh I haven't tried that one but I like the name! I like chaotic perfumes.
Opium came out in 77 it was revolutionary nothing matched it every woman in the world wanted it. In those days it was very expensive. I got a bottle duty free for my mom in 82 and it cost £25.😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
Love love love ! My favorite category.
💟💟
- "Thank you, good night" 🤣🤣🤣
LouLou is my signature scent these days 😍
This is a fine list
I love your sweater!!!
Ooo!!! Yes!
I love vids like this!
Tucking in 🤓 🍿🥤
Amazing video as always =) Big fan of l´eau trois!
OMGOSH!!! I have a full half of those! Moth is my favorite Zoo & close to my favorite overall.
When I saw the title, I immediately thought of LouLou & Moth :D
Thank you for talking about incense. I am totally on board to be armed with lots of information in regards to perfume.
Thank you👏🏼👍🏼😀👏🏼👍🏼😀
I was just looking for a video about darker and/or smokey fragrances. You read my mind.❤️❤️❤️
Perfect!
Mendittorosa- Osang is an intense Honey/Myrrh/Benzoin scent, so, so good.
Funny story, I used to work in a shop that sold 500 perfumes and we also sold Mendittorosa, ya know Osang was my least favourite perfume in the whole shop lmao!!! True. I can’t get past that fenugreek note :(
I always learn here 😌
I’m so glad you did this video. Whenever I see the note of incense I’m always hoping for some thing like you would smell in a magic shop but it’s almost always church style incense lol.
The team at Luckyscent did an IG live where they touched on the use of the term oriental that was interesting. Might be worth checking out.
Thanks again for another awesome video!
Deffo try scherezade by black Phoenix it’s so so good! There’s also another one called gothic bluebell bu union which dries exactly like a joss stick! It’s hard to find though which Is why I don’t have it argh!
Thank you.
I ment to say that in the old days 60s 70s 80s high end fragrances really got exposure to the general public because at that time the world was full of little privately owned chemists that would mostly have a lot desplayed in cabinets. 😀
I own a few of these and now I'm having frag paralysis trying to decide which one I want to wear now! 😳
You mentioned Rien being “unforgiving”; do you have other hard-to-use fragrances that you love and is it worth making a video about it?
nice format. 👍
The fuss about the word “oriental” in reference to perfume upsets me and I find it hysterical. It just means “of the east”- something spicy like Coco.
Anyway intriguing list. I have a sample of Moth and I really like it but I am going to revisit. I may just buy that Agent Provocateur one because it’s cheap..
Also a while back I was looking up a perfume by Pierre Guillaume called Indochine which you reviewed 7 years ago. I am a little sad you didn’t like it because I adore it and will rock it in Fall. It is resinous and smooth- just gorgeous- and a touch incensy itself. It reminds me a bit of another resin-fest I have that is one of my top 10- Oppoponax by Les Néréides. Anyway very interesting video:-)
Hey great content 👌 where on earth did you buy that larger size bottle of MA Nishtana ??
This was the original bottle on release before Prin changed prissana bottles to 30ml :)
@@ouch110 oh gosh... I have the 30 ml bottle which I go through every other month lol 😆 I love it.thank you
As someone who admires you, I felt okay with playfully saying that I like your jester-chic sweater 😆 Jester-chic making a comeback in 2021 😉 Dang it, I know I was joking, but now I’m wondering if there really *IS* jester-chic. There is goblin-core, cottage-core, dark academia 🤔
I love that, too
Hurraaaaaay! Great topic!
I just want to small like a Catholic church.
Very enjoyable video, thank you! I love incense as a note. I do not have any Zoologist fragrances in my collection, though. Which ones are your top 3-5? Bee, Moth, Camel, and.... Also, if I may be so bold to ask, Thom, where did you get the user name Ouch or Ouch110? Just curious. :)
1. Moth 2.Camel 3. Nightingale 4. Bee 5. Sloth. yayyyy! Ahh the name isn't anything special it's just an old email I had and now I feel like it's too late to change haha.
@@ouch110 I see. Thanks. :)
Camel is THE BEST Zoologist! but omg man, M/Mink is so utterly insane, to me it smells like someone tried to clean a unrinal at a fish market with some kind of gourmand smelling cleaner.. I get jittery and nauseous just thinking about smelling it LOL
The Impossible Brief to a perfumer: "Hi, I'm after a sophisticated, beautifully blended, gothic perfume for my 30 year old cousin. She's a well-travelled, well-read very feminine woman with a hugely obvious gothic aesthetic who loves flowers and the countryside and mornings just as much as midnight mass so I'd like something that smells of a church in Italy but at the exact same time, something very floral and feminine without merging with the incense to such a point that the fragrance smells nauseating...is that possible, do you think you could do that, can such a fragrance even exist?" Response: 'Uh hell YEAH it can. Try 'Baiser de Florence' by Ella K.
Bee may be hands down my favorite fragrance ever! Yes - the dry down is freaking amazing - The opening is great too...But, the dry down...Does any other scent have quite as complex of a reveal as that...? I'm asking for real...lol
I would like to know as well! I joke and say “by hour 20 it’s gorgeous!” But seriously, the dry down is something very special.
@@tara5742 LOL! Yeah right?!?! I oversprayed once wore it all day and when I laundered my dress - I could STILL smell it on it! Crazy...
There must be something, plenty of fragrances reveal beautiful things but really? None that I can think of right now, and Bee? Well..that one is enough for me! hehe. So gooooooood!
Oh! Lol I just thought of another one. Dame Perfumery’s Monsoon. It starts out like your walking on the Earth and then plunging into the water! It’s not a “blue” scent, it literally smells like wet…wetness? Wow, I’m not great at describing things. Haha. It’s complex, in the dry down, but also really different from t he first spray. Yet, wearable. It’s labeled as an animalic Amber, but I don’t think that fits. Dame Perfumery has everything blending like a high end niche. There isn’t a blast of anything. Yet, it’s really affordable prices. Ironically, I think that’s why he never became main stream. He prices things so low, I feel some might be turned off thinking it must not be well done or good quality. A must try! www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Dame-Perfumery/Monsoon-45406.html
I am only seeing this now, but thank you!! It is really frustrating trying to figure out what a reviewer means when they say "incense-y"? Is it the resin or burning incense smell? Is it Frankincense-myrrh? Is it bakhoor? Is it incense sticks like in a headshop? Lol. Great video😊
I needed this video! Thank you. So well done. So many ideas on what to try. What type of incense would you consider Gypsy Water by Byredo? Pretty Please. It's such an easy reach to wear. And my only incense perfume point of reference so far.
Would love to see a full collection video.
I have a bottle of L’Agent………C’es très magnifique!
I loved it ❤👍👍
The discussion about the word oriental is an interesting one. It conveys a stereotype of exoticism that, when applied to people, is inappropriate and possibly even dangerous. However, when applied to a category of perfumes, stereotyping the group of perfumes is kinda the point.
I think you definitely have a point there. Maybe people who would be affected by the oriental stereotype might still detect a harmful connection when it's used for fragrance though. I heard somewhere that in France you would just refer to the fragrance family as "Amber Fragrances", which feels more accurate.
I’m looking for Myrrh prominent fragrances, any suggestions? I’m not particularly fond of Vanilla or gourmand notes. Thank You In Advance!
P.s. L’Autre Oud Eau de Parfum by Lancôme has quickly become my favorite Myrrh fragrance so far, even though it is usually listed as an Oud/Rose, the Myrrh is quite prominent from first spray till dry down. Excellent projection, silage and longevity as well!
If you can get a sample, I have to insist that you try Mortal Skin from Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777. It’s ink, blackberry and incense. Completely unique and stunning.
Someone on basenotes proposed changing "oriental" to "euriental" which I thought was clever, as these fragrances reflect a move by western perfumers to use eastern materials, reflecting a european vision of an exoticized east. A possible replacement
🤦♂️
Hi, I was wondering if you would be able to help me with Champaca fragrances? I used to wear Champaca by Space NK and they discontinue it. I bought up as many bottles as I could but have sadly run out now. Do you know that scent and do you know anything similar to that scent? Any help greatly appreciated!
I am surprised Amir by Tonatto Profumi isn’t mentioned. A real good incense
I don't have it in my collection. :)
You will love it, I think
Dear Thomas , I have one question :
which one from this list is MOST similar to TF Sahara Noir ( my bottle is half vol - I start to panic 😄) ?
🤔🤔🙋🏼♀️🌷
Lovely video, you’ve piqued my interest about Junkie! Will you review Boy Smells? I think Violet Ends from there would perhaps fit into this category, or at least near it. Very intensely smoky and overbearing. I always get compliments from men when I wear it, especially if I pair it with Lust by Lush.
Oooh I haven't tried any of those, I think they sell candles no??? Maybe I should check them out.
Hi, i recently purchased MiN New York - vol3 Stardust. It was discontinued in Harrods so i got it for a decent price..but the brand is American. I am literally mesmerised by this perfume. I would like to hear your opinion about it because i am confused about it! Not sure if it made any sense :)
Oh fab! I just got chapel factory holy stick and I love it. It made me want to explore incense more. I ended up selling my casbah so I thought I couldn’t do incense. So wrong. And I love amouage interlude… so many different ways to enjoy it. So perfectly timed. Not perfect for my bank balance though….. 🤦🏼♀️🥰
Also commenting before I watch even!
I came here after your LUSH perfume video, and I was really hoping a LUSH perfume may make the list, as they're accessible for me, and vegan perfume can be hard to find. I'm new to perfume and am still trying to learn what it is that I like in a perfume. I love sandlewood, cedarwood, smoky notes, a hint of sweetness from vanilla, black pepper, patchouli (yes, I like Lord of Misrule!)
I want to smell like an old church, and am looking for my signature scent.
Is there anything you would recommend?
Wow I don’t have any of these (haven’t smelled them either!). Is Kenzo Elephant an incense perfume? It might be the only one I have.
Hello! Kenzo Elephant is more of a spicy perfume, not really an incense. It's beautiful though!
That thing on the wall… I keep thinking of M. Micallef perfume… 🤔
Did you end up selling your BPAL collection? You never talk about them anymore.
I still have them!! I have just reviewed all of them hehe. And I haven’t tried anything new from them for years. :( I stick to what I know. 👍
I need all of these!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My favorite incense type is cherry, the closest perfume to cherry incense I've found Molinard Musc
I discovered your channel about a month ago and I've been hooked ever since. I love how you describe the perfumes, you make me want to try your favorites bc we have the same taste, I love different and spicy (oriental) type scents. I, especially, can't wait to experience Zoologist, which I had never heard of! Please never stop doing what you do!! 💜💜
My favorite incense perfume is Encens Suave by matiere premiere
Have you tried Incense flash by A Tauer and Mandala by Masque Milano?.... Tuberose flash by Tauer is also exceptional and quite inexpensive.... but not really incense, just spicy delicious tuberose.....
I haven't!!! :(
💗💗💗💗💗
I was always told that referring to an object - like a rug or a perfume - was fine, but never to refer to a person or culture as such. Should we say Occidental instead? I mean, it just means "East" or "of the East", as opposed to the West. It's not a word I use that often, anyways, unless I'm referring to the Orientalist tradition of art. I understand that a lot of those artists were rich, white European Colonials, but I hope that we're not trying to rename that. It is what is is, for bad and for good. (I feel like the ones who wag the fingers the most are cis-gender white people. Full disclosure - me). Edit to add: I guess in my own categorization "incense" and "spice" categories have replaced "oriental" when it comes to fragrance. I need to get on top of those Zoologist ones!
The confusing thing is that 'Asian' in Australia means 'Far East Asian' but if you use the word in the UK it normally means Indian, Bangladeshi or Pakistani. I think 'Far East Asian' is an awkward mouthful :D I wish I could settle on a word that is understood in both hemispheres! I could be wrong, but in Canada and the United States, Asian also means Far East Asian...wait, no...would 'Indian' be confusing also, considering American Indians are an established indigenous group. What do you call a 2nd generation Indian guy as he most likely doesn't casually refer to himself as 'American Indian'? How do Americans differentiate between American Indian and Continental Indian? What words are commonly used in conversation the The States? Argh. So many ways to put your foot in it these days, not due to lazy ignorance but because of how words have different connotations and even meanings in different countries. I try not to knee-jerk in response to people, y'know, generating synthetic outrage in such haste as well as being defensive on behalf of a group or stranger, and look at what TRULY offends or upsets me instead of anything that's part of an ideological dogma or new socio-political trend. All that would be due to the habit so many younger people have these days, which is to learn and then parrot received wisdom with a jarring kind of emotional intensity and incontinence. Also, motive, tone and intent counts for a great deal in these incendiary times. (I agree with the 'finger wagging people' observation you made. I just wouldn't have used 'cis-gendered white people' when making the point myself as it's not part of my personal vernacular but the sentiment of your comment I totally agree with. I'd be curious what you make of Zoologist once you finish your exploration of the house. Fort & Manle and Tauer are my love affair at the moment...olfactory polyamory. ;) A bouncy happy little dumpling of a phrase. :D
@@ciganyweaverandherperiwink6293 In school in the '70s and '80s I still heard "Indian" to refer to "Native Americans" - which was the preferred term at the time I think? Now that people know more about their actual lineage, the more larger tribe is referred to (i.e. Navajo, Ottawa, Seminole, Sioux). I trip up now and then and say First Nations because I'm used to listening to Canadian podcasts (that term has always sounded most "natural" to me, but it is specific to Canada). I used to say "Asian Indian" to differentiate when I was growing up. It is all very clunky right now. But I am always willing to learn and correct myself. (I only used cis-gender white as an example of the more modern way of referring to oneself. I should have put it in quotes. I am still getting used to it all myself.) Again, where I am at, I am limited in my access to Zoologist fragrances so I'm still waiting to save up enough to order a sample set to try.
@@ableaktether I hope you'll pop back one day and let me know which Zoologist scent you fell in love with. I have a few of theirs as samples but I find them underwhelming on my skin, given the stunning packaging and brand concept. (note: the animal-Victoriana 'thing' was HUGE around the world about a decade ago, wasn't it? Shame Victor couldn't have beaten everybody and got there first with this striking visual, y'know, just made it a Zoologist thing.) Oh! A Fort & Manle discovery set would be an excellent gift idea to put on your own list for the holiday season. Gorgeous fragrances, so moreish. Hope you have a terrific weekend. :)
Oriental is not a slur. It just means of the East, or to the east, and Occidental just means of the west, to the west. Anyone who objects to those words is reading something into it that isn't there.
Junky is $160 plus heavy shipping charges coz it’s being shipped from France. Nobody in the US sells it. So $200 is not cheap at all.
It’s £90 in the UK. I can’t speak for every country,
Do you like passage d enfer and rerique d amour?
To me, Oriental describes a region, not a people. It conveys so much in the perfume world that cannot be contained in any other single world. It would be a shame to lose it. Honestly Thomas, be glad you don’t live here in the USA. The word “police” will only stop when we are reduced to making grunting noises at each other. 🙄
Don’t let the PC, word police get to you. If it’s not in reference to a person, or people group, but to a region of the world, or things, it’s not offensive. We live in a time in which ppl look for things to be offended about...and quite frankly, that offends me😂 There comes a time when we have to stop changing the language and definitions based on some nonsense.
Thankyou
You’re welcome 😊
Watching love incense
Can we put this in diffuser
Hi, are these incense perfumes natural?
🥳🥳🥳
Loulou is from the 80’s and i had a friend who over spraye loulou so i hate that one😅🙈
No Shalimar?
I love churchy incense, I recently bought "smoke of god" from Simone Andreoli, it is a bit similar to "La lithurgie des heures" from Jovoy. My obsession so far is Ethiopian incense, I just love it. Any suggestions?
The word oriental is offensive when applied to *people*. I think it’s still acceptable in the context in which you’re using it.
Shalimar was the first oriental created in the 1920s. If some sjw is offended by it in 2021 it makes me want to use the word even more. ORIENTAL!! It is a fragrence catagory for the uneducated zombie hoard who wants to get offended by everything. If that "offends" you please take a look at ur life.. it might be time to re evaluate your priorities 🤦
-Ramsey
They smell like cigar.
What is wrong with oriental? ORIENTAL is synonym of luxury, rich, ravishing.
About time that the ever offended politically correct police threattened YOU, the most dangerous individual on the internet, to stop using the word "oriental" referring to perfumes or... or what? They'll have you banned from youtube? We're here to back you up. Let's just stop giving these lunatics what they want: attention.
Oh no it was just a healthy discussion about an article. “The word oriental is outdated but is it offensive”? That was the title. I need to read more about it. But we will see!
No Shalimar?
Shalimar is an amber/vanilla/citrus. It’s not an incense to me 😛