@@ThatFixItGuy Yes I did brother. I am so glad it’s all working out for you because you truly are helping so many people do small jobs themselves and save money. You definitely deserve to be at the top
You know, I've replaced a lot of those valves myself and I didn't actually need to watch you show how to do this. But I was eating my chicken quesadillas and pizza pops, and thought, "Hey why not?" Thanks for the visuals. I also watched the whole video. Good job.
Twice a year, when we change our clocks to and from daylight savings time, I go around the house and open and close all the toilet and vanity ball valves several times. So far I have not found one that was malfunctioning, but if I do I can change it at my leisure instead of when the water is leaking all over the place.
I like how that wrench works. Excellent. I've changed at least a couple dozen of those valves on toilets, even more under sinks. I will not install a gate valve anywhere anymore. I appreciate the information on the 12" supply line. Nice. You are a handyman after my own heart. Thank you.
Great video. This year I've replaced two of these. I was able to get away with not replacing the compression rings, but I just ordered the tool you linked to. On toilet #1, the rubber washer inside the old valve came apart and parts of it ended up in the toilet tank flush valve, which would then not shut off. On toilet #2 the same valve rubber washer failed and parts got hung up in a valve I added for one of those cheap bidets. Toilet fill time became extremely long. I have 8 more of the old valves in my house installed at the same time, so I assume the rubber washers will fail in those soon. I'll be better prepared the next time.
Thank you for this informative video. I know you know your stuff, but no thread tape on the compression fitting threads? Also once the ferrell is squeezed on with the compression fitting, isn't the 1/2" copper pipe distorted slightly so that pulling it off with that tool going to change the dimension of that copper pipe?
SO HAPPY YOU POSTED THIS VIDEO!!!!! You saved me with the Ridgid One Stop wrench - I'd been wrestling with a stuck Angle stop for 30 minutes when I decided to see what RUclips had for me. Quick trip to Home Depot and it was off in 2 minutes!! Liked and Subscribed and will be back to your channel!
I have the same compression ring puller, although I have yet to use it yet. Does it leave a ring type groove, or score the pipe when removing? Does a new ferrule always seal without too much tightening?
This puller is awesome. A ring type groove depends on the person that installed the last angle stop. It really seems to vary at times with the tightness. Once I feel it getting tight the I go another full turn of the nut or a little more and that is usually good for me. I think it will vary for everyone depending on your position and strength.
The old shut off valve in my bathroom was soldered. It took me sometime to take the valve off. And I damages my drywall which is now i need to replace that. I like soldering because it is superior but it is tricky and you working with high heat and i don’t wanna damage the drywall and since I am not a plumber i like to use compression ring shut off valve.
Losen the nut just behind the handle. The handle will turn more freely. I suggest rebuilding the valve with RTV or any small rubber washer. Upon completion, re-tighten nut behind handle. I've rebuilt a valve in 1974-75 and recently needed rebuilding again. 50 years of service, by using a rubber gasket/washer made from a bike inner tube.
If the are all brass shut off valves then I would happily try this. I love something that you can get 50 years of service out of. Thank you for your comments.
I would not tighten the top this way because then tightening the bottom afterwards puts extra twists and stress on the hose. Bottom first and then top. It looks nice if the flexible hose goes vertical from the valve but depending on the length of the hose and distance it may be better to angle the small end at the valve towards the large end at the tank to avoid some of the bends. Nice tip about the white rubber. The only compression ring removal tool available at my store was horrendous to use. It also doubled as a removal tool for the handles on the sink faucet but it is just not worth it. This tool is perfect. The shut off valves I purchased have a spot for two wrenches so no need to use the top connector to hold while tightening and the extra distance allows the compression ring to go further down the pipe so not so much copper is exposed.
At 1:20, where did the water drain to? Usually flushing the tank leaves a sponge full there, then the old line holds more that needs to be caught with a small bucket or bowl as its lower nut is loosened.
I would not do it. Gently saw the brass ring till almost through then pry apart with a screwdriver. Or keep the same nut and ferrule just change the valve. You may have to cut a little pipe off the tip if it’s too long, but that works too. My favorite if there is enough pipe it cut off behind the ferrule and glue on a male adapter then you just have to add a female threaded angle stop. This video will give you the part for reinstalling after you cut. ruclips.net/video/HrUMVMhZdh4/видео.html
This was a great video. I have replace too many toilets in my life and that compression ferrule tool would have been so handy. Need to search the interweb for something like it. 😁✌
Great video, with a bit of humour thrown in too 👍😊 Could you do a video on how to undo a stuck water valve on the main water supply - the old type not the quarter turn ball valve. Thanks.
I always see plumbers using compression fit valves on the supply lines - any reason you pros don't solder on a copper screw-on coupling (usually a male) then use a threaded valve with pipe dope or teflon tape? I've changed all the shut-off valves in my house to the threaded ones and it makes it easier to change them out when the local hard water scale causes them to stick open (no matter how often you 'exercise' them).
This is great if you have a compression fit type toilet supply/shut off valve, which fits onto a straight pipe. Mine was an FIP valve, which fits onto a threaded pipe. Far simpler to get off and on fortunately.
I have a question, I think the video answers it but just incase pls let me know. So my question is I had my upstairs bathroom renovated which included a new toilet and plumbing was replaced which includes the old water line to the toilet but it’s loose in the wall. I found out because I was vacuuming, barely nudged the plate and it moved so I investigated and I can carefully and easily pull out this plate off the wall and see the waterline from the inside. Is that normal or should it be somehow affixed in a more secure way? Another toilet downstairs is much more secure (I’m wondering because this video shows a copper waterline that mine downstairs is too hence why it’d seem more secure) so I don’t get it and want advice because maybe that’s normal but I’ve never experienced a loose toilet water line as in I can easily see the pex tubing inside the wall and if I needed to shut off the valve I’d have to be careful when doing so not to mess something up
No money. Even when I had my business if I found something like this I charged an extra 35.00 dollars. They go pretty fast. Pretty rare that it ever went beyond that.
If you're not going to use a bathroom for a long time, are we supposed to put something down the drain to protect the pipes from rusting ? If a bathroom hasn't been used for over a year or two, is there something we're supposed to do before using it again ?
@@ThatFixItGuy I was a repair plumber so I had to make old thing work, especially antiques. Back to this handle: you could remove handle and reposition it to get half a turn. Repeat. Sometimes replace is not something you want to chance and just get out of there asap!
Never been keen on attaching a flexi to a compression fitting, they are similar but the flexi relies on a rubber washer to make the seal and needs a flat surface where a compression fitting is sharp and cuts into the aforementioned washer 'usually' not a problem but not ideal.
@@ThatFixItGuy thank you very much for responding the water shut off valve doesn’t turn off at all even when closing the valve water still runs through to toilet I was wondering can that cause a leak in the wall ? Since valve is defective ?
very good vid, thank you for your time for making this video, and share your skill with us, 🙏 the best instructions step by step, save my money $150 for plumber, Gbu🙏
Not really a fan of sharkbite for this. Compression is easy to do and rarely has an issue. Also the ferrule on the compression fitting indents the copper and may not allow the sharkbite to have a good seal.
I can look for one for ya. You just need to unsweat the old valve and solder on a male adapter. The you can screw on a valve. If you have enough pipe behind you can just cut the valve off and put a compression one on.
Pro tip - you shouldn't turn it on all the way. Turn them on slightly so they'll fill over a minute to two minutes or so. Then if someone flushes a toilet when someone is taking a shower it won't take all the cold water away. Minute is plenty fast for most applications. No need for an expensive manifold or other crazy ideas. Simple, effective, cheap, slow fill.
You couldn't do what you did to remove it with cpvc pipe though. Especially old cpvc, its brital and would have cracked the pipe or broke the elbow inside the wall clean off. Best solution is to replace the gasket in the shutoff valve with cpvc piping then to try to remove the entire valve itself.
The few times I came across a compression stop on cpvc, I did whatever was necessary to remove it and replace it with a threaded adaptor and stop. Afterwards I tell the owner that cpvc is a flooded house just waiting to happen.
I cringed watching you take a knife to that copper pipe. I think I would have put the old pipe cover back on backwards to protect the drywall and then used a micro torch to burn off the old paint and crud from the copper pipe. All you’re left with is easily removable char residue. But you’ve shown me two cool tools to add to my plumbing box.
He did not repair the stop valve, instead he went out and bought a new replacement. He said larger hose instead of Longer hose. He still left the stop valve against the toilet causing the same trouble in the future.
I make all kinds of mistakes all the time and own that. But this will not be an issue now because there is a 1/4 valve on there. The problem was that it would not shut off. Now it shuts off easy.
I have to say this. 1 i hate plumbing. 2 I hate paying plumbers more. So that out of the way... I am of the opinion these valves are designed to fail. I have never went under any sink or toilet where i didn't have to replace one of these bastards... NEVER. ya here comes the hard water people... its water, plumbing should be able to handle water. cant always control what the water is... plumbing engineers should handle it.
I've been a residential/commercial plumber for over 30 years and I honestly think you made me stupider by watching this video as almost everything you did was wrong including naming things. It's called an excursion not a cover and there was no need to put on a split version, also you twisted the supply line when installing it, you always install the supply line on the angle stop first
That procedure will work only ONLY in houses/apartments with individual shut off valve, In my case, no, I do have an apartment, and we have to go to the basement, with permition from association and business bond to shut whole building out, That (my) angle valve is so close to the wall, so, freezing is not an option... 300 bucks > service plumber. and 10$ valve at homedepot/menards/lowes/ace
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Another great informative video brother. Keep up the good work on putting out content that people can really use in life.
Thank you Steve! I’m trying. You see that Facebook is taking off a bit. Helping lots more people!
@@ThatFixItGuy Yes I did brother. I am so glad it’s all working out for you because you truly are helping so many people do small jobs themselves and save money. You definitely deserve to be at the top
You know, I've replaced a lot of those valves myself and I didn't actually need to watch you show how to do this. But I was eating my chicken quesadillas and pizza pops, and thought, "Hey why not?"
Thanks for the visuals.
I also watched the whole video.
Good job.
Twice a year, when we change our clocks to and from daylight savings time, I go around the house and open and close all the toilet and vanity ball valves several times. So far I have not found one that was malfunctioning, but if I do I can change it at my leisure instead of when the water is leaking all over the place.
That's a really good tip
I like how that wrench works. Excellent.
I've changed at least a couple dozen of those valves on toilets, even more under sinks. I will not install a gate valve anywhere anymore.
I appreciate the information on the 12" supply line. Nice.
You are a handyman after my own heart. Thank you.
Helpful and my toilet isn't broken. Or maybe RUclips knows it is and I haven't realized it yet. Great content! Thank you.
Great video. Now, before I forget I’m going to exercise the shut off valve for my toilet that I haven’t operated for two years.
Great practice that is lost these days. Excising valves.
@@ThatFixItGuy I try to open and close all the valves in my house every year. Now I’ll set a reminder that renews annually on my iPhone.
@@doubledrats235 I can't budg mine🤔
Why not use a right angle fitting to get the knob into a position away from the pipe?
Why did you use the adjustable wrench for the connections? The one stop wrench is made for these connections.
You’re the best !!!! The only one who explained so simple 👏👏👏👏
Great video. This year I've replaced two of these. I was able to get away with not replacing the compression rings, but I just ordered the tool you linked to. On toilet #1, the rubber washer inside the old valve came apart and parts of it ended up in the toilet tank flush valve, which would then not shut off. On toilet #2 the same valve rubber washer failed and parts got hung up in a valve I added for one of those cheap bidets. Toilet fill time became extremely long. I have 8 more of the old valves in my house installed at the same time, so I assume the rubber washers will fail in those soon. I'll be better prepared the next time.
That’s a great idea I love it when people are proactive about maintaining their home. We all seem to take so much for granted
@@jeffcole1914especially shut off valves that are not seen daily
Nice instructional with the one stop wrench- i have not scene one before! Thanks Brian ps. Nice plug for using plumbing supply houses
Thank you Shawn. They are great if your doing multiple angle stops.
Home Depot sells those wrenches. Good only for angle, not straight valves.
Thank you for this informative video. I know you know your stuff, but no thread tape on the compression fitting threads? Also once the ferrell is squeezed on with the compression fitting, isn't the 1/2" copper pipe distorted slightly so that pulling it off with that tool going to change the dimension of that copper pipe?
I may have to do my friends and this was such a great help and much easier than I had expected!
So glad to hear that. Please let me know how it goes.
SO HAPPY YOU POSTED THIS VIDEO!!!!! You saved me with the Ridgid One Stop wrench - I'd been wrestling with a stuck Angle stop for 30 minutes when I decided to see what RUclips had for me. Quick trip to Home Depot and it was off in 2 minutes!! Liked and Subscribed and will be back to your channel!
That is awesome. So glad this could help you out. Thank you for subscribing. Please share your experience and help us grow.
I have the same compression ring puller, although I have yet to use it yet.
Does it leave a ring type groove, or score the pipe when removing? Does a new ferrule always seal without too much tightening?
This puller is awesome. A ring type groove depends on the person that installed the last angle stop. It really seems to vary at times with the tightness. Once I feel it getting tight the I go another full turn of the nut or a little more and that is usually good for me. I think it will vary for everyone depending on your position and strength.
The old shut off valve in my bathroom was soldered. It took me sometime to take the valve off. And I damages my drywall which is now i need to replace that. I like soldering because it is superior but it is tricky and you working with high heat and i don’t wanna damage the drywall and since I am not a plumber i like to use compression ring shut off valve.
I get that. Compression stops are easier for sure. Especially in tight spaces. Soldering in a corner behind a toilet can be tricky.
Great job, nice and easy. I NEED that “special” one-stop tool! 🤩
PS, I’ll never get why plumbers still use those “Brass Craft” oval gate valves 🙄
Actually Brass Craft does make 1/4 turn stops. Kinda hard to find the oval handle ones anymore, at least where I am.
You gave me some hot tips and I can up my game in the toilet fix area,Thanks.
Glad to help. Thank you for checking out the channel.
Losen the nut just behind the handle. The handle will turn more freely. I suggest rebuilding the valve with RTV or any small rubber washer. Upon completion, re-tighten nut behind handle. I've rebuilt a valve in 1974-75 and recently needed rebuilding again. 50 years of service, by using a rubber gasket/washer made from a bike inner tube.
If the are all brass shut off valves then I would happily try this. I love something that you can get 50 years of service out of. Thank you for your comments.
Great video. I might only ever have to do this once but glad I’ve seen it done now and how to do it. Thanks!
I would not tighten the top this way because then tightening the bottom afterwards puts extra twists and stress on the hose. Bottom first and then top. It looks nice if the flexible hose goes vertical from the valve but depending on the length of the hose and distance it may be better to angle the small end at the valve towards the large end at the tank to avoid some of the bends.
Nice tip about the white rubber. The only compression ring removal tool available at my store was horrendous to use. It also doubled as a removal tool for the handles on the sink faucet but it is just not worth it. This tool is perfect. The shut off valves I purchased have a spot for two wrenches so no need to use the top connector to hold while tightening and the extra distance allows the compression ring to go further down the pipe so not so much copper is exposed.
At 1:20, where did the water drain to? Usually flushing the tank leaves a sponge full there, then the old line holds more that needs to be caught with a small bucket or bowl as its lower nut is loosened.
Will the ferrule removal tool work on CPVC pipe?
I would not do it. Gently saw the brass ring till almost through then pry apart with a screwdriver. Or keep the same nut and ferrule just change the valve. You may have to cut a little pipe off the tip if it’s too long, but that works too.
My favorite if there is enough pipe it cut off behind the ferrule and glue on a male adapter then you just have to add a female threaded angle stop.
This video will give you the part for reinstalling after you cut. ruclips.net/video/HrUMVMhZdh4/видео.html
could not SEE what the man did, which is what i needed to SEE!
Hi. What should I do to unscrew the valve if it is frozen shot? Really need help to get this replaced. Thanks for this video!
Marie
This was a great video. I have replace too many toilets in my life and that compression ferrule tool would have been so handy. Need to search the interweb for something like it. 😁✌
Compression sleeve puller is available from the english tool company. www.englishtoolco.com/
got you covered. I love this thing.
@@ThatFixItGuy Thank you! 👍😁
It's at Home Depot
@@jamisonsdad1963 not anywhere I’ve ever seen. Only different styles. Prove me wrong and I’ll get one tomorrow.
Great video, with a bit of humour thrown in too 👍😊
Could you do a video on how to undo a stuck water valve on the main water supply - the old type not the quarter turn ball valve. Thanks.
I will add it to my list. Thank you asking.
Very informative and helpful. Glad you used a quarter turn valve.
I always try to. Thanks for watching.
Where can I buy that tool? To pull out the fitti ng out
englishtoolco.com/
This. So many great techniques throughout this video. Subscribed.
I always see plumbers using compression fit valves on the supply lines - any reason you pros don't solder on a copper screw-on coupling (usually a male) then use a threaded valve with pipe dope or teflon tape? I've changed all the shut-off valves in my house to the threaded ones and it makes it easier to change them out when the local hard water scale causes them to stick open (no matter how often you 'exercise' them).
It is very true. I think the compression valves get put on because it is easier.
How come water didn't come out of tank when you took the supply line off...
Very good informative video. Thanks for posting.
Your welcome. Thanks for watching.
This is great if you have a compression fit type toilet supply/shut off valve, which fits onto a straight pipe. Mine was an FIP valve, which fits onto a threaded pipe. Far simpler to get off and on fortunately.
Where can I pick up that particular sleeve puller?
Compression sleeve puller is available from the english tool company. www.englishtoolco.com/
Thank you!
Hello, if mine keeps turning it isn't fully shut off, right? I'd have to replace it?
Yes it will need to be repaired or replaced.
Great video. Tools not seen before.
Nice video. What would cause the nut (the one that clicked) at the toilet to break and cause some water damage?
Great video and I appreciate all your cool tips.
Liked this video because of the HP reference 😂
What it what is the name of that tool you use the compression tools
It is called a compression sleeve puller. The one I like is by the English tool company
I have a question, I think the video answers it but just incase pls let me know. So my question is I had my upstairs bathroom renovated which included a new toilet and plumbing was replaced which includes the old water line to the toilet but it’s loose in the wall. I found out because I was vacuuming, barely nudged the plate and it moved so I investigated and I can carefully and easily pull out this plate off the wall and see the waterline from the inside. Is that normal or should it be somehow affixed in a more secure way? Another toilet downstairs is much more secure (I’m wondering because this video shows a copper waterline that mine downstairs is too hence why it’d seem more secure) so I don’t get it and want advice because maybe that’s normal but I’ve never experienced a loose toilet water line as in I can easily see the pex tubing inside the wall and if I needed to shut off the valve I’d have to be careful when doing so not to mess something up
Did you help them on the bill ? Or did you give them sticker shock ?
No money. Even when I had my business if I found something like this I charged an extra 35.00 dollars. They go pretty fast. Pretty rare that it ever went beyond that.
@@ThatFixItGuy very nice
I have that same puller. I want to try using my impact on it sometime! 😃
Great video Brian very informative keep up the good work. Hope you guys have a great rest of the week 👍🇺🇸
Thank you Britt! Same to me you and your family.
I saw that tool but my compression ring that the old owner installed is too far in the pipe. The nut wouldnt screw it
I have a valve that stuck and it is soldered on. Any suggestions on how to get it off?
Flex supply line should have top and bottom metal nuts, plastic can and will eventually split under pressure, seen it many times.
Mine burst this weekend at 3 in the morning. Use metal
If you're not going to use a bathroom for a long time, are we supposed to put something down the drain to protect the pipes from rusting ?
If a bathroom hasn't been used for over a year or two, is there something we're supposed to do before using it again ?
Details covered. Subscribed!
great information Brian! thanks for sharing!
Thank you commander!
This was great. Are you in the NorthEast? I’m still afraid to do it by myself and break it even more 😱
I have a lack of plumbing confidence. 🥺
loosen the bonnet nut and then often you can turn the handle.
That is a great call. The handle was too close to the toilet to turn in this case.
@@ThatFixItGuy I was a repair plumber so I had to make old thing work, especially antiques. Back to this handle: you could remove handle and reposition it to get half a turn. Repeat. Sometimes replace is not something you want to chance and just get out of there asap!
This video was very helpful. Thanks
Never been keen on attaching a flexi to a compression fitting, they are similar but the flexi relies on a rubber washer to make the seal and needs a flat surface where a compression fitting is sharp and cuts into the aforementioned washer 'usually' not a problem but not ideal.
When the compression ring is removed along with the compression nut what is left is not that sharp in the products I've seen.
Can a shut off valve for toilet that doesn’t turn off cause a leak in the wall?
Sorry I don’t fully understand the question. Happy to try and help though.
@@ThatFixItGuy thank you very much for responding the water shut off valve doesn’t turn off at all even when closing the valve water still runs through to toilet I was wondering can that cause a leak in the wall ? Since valve is defective ?
Thanks for the video. I was wondering how long does a supply line last thanks.
They can last a life time. It really depends on
Hi there's no way I can get my old valve off, so can I put a new ball valve on to that and then put the toilet hose on the ball valve
very good vid, thank you for your time for making this video, and share your skill with us, 🙏 the best instructions step by step, save my money $150 for plumber, Gbu🙏
7:05 - Hell yeah, brother!
Thank you for checking us out!
Great job. Thanks
Good job.
One should close and reopen the valve once a month or at least a year, so that it still works if you need it.
I really do like this idea. Thank you for your comments.
Thank you for sharing
My pleasure
Good job 👏
07:38 You are using the adjustable backwards.
Real mechanics don’t use adjustable wrenches. Adjustable wrenches are only for women and farmers.
Like the way you work
Thank you. I’m trying to help where I can.
"this thing is on there man" i died thinking of the rusted one im working on rn 😂😂
Why didn't you just use a shark fitting for the replacement valve?
Not really a fan of sharkbite for this. Compression is easy to do and rarely has an issue. Also the ferrule on the compression fitting indents the copper and may not allow the sharkbite to have a good seal.
Was there manure in the toilet?
Nice. Video, GOD BLESS
I can't shut the water off is the issue
Love it
Ahhhh if only my current valve wasn’t soldered on!
Can anyone recommend a video on how to replace a soldered on shutoff valve with a threaded one??
I can look for one for ya. You just need to unsweat the old valve and solder on a male adapter. The you can screw on a valve.
If you have enough pipe behind you can just cut the valve off and put a compression one on.
Thanks. It worked!
Than you amigo
For sure. Really appreciate the support.
Great job .....
Pro tip - you shouldn't turn it on all the way. Turn them on slightly so they'll fill over a minute to two minutes or so. Then if someone flushes a toilet when someone is taking a shower it won't take all the cold water away. Minute is plenty fast for most applications. No need for an expensive manifold or other crazy ideas. Simple, effective, cheap, slow fill.
This should only be done with 1/4 turn style shutoffs. If you do it with a rubber gasket style you will erode away the gasket.
If pipework is installed correctly, you shouldn't have to
Amen brother
Just replace the brass stem with a nylon version, apply some plumber's grease to the threads of the stem and you'll be good.
You couldn't do what you did to remove it with cpvc pipe though. Especially old cpvc, its brital and would have cracked the pipe or broke the elbow inside the wall clean off. Best solution is to replace the gasket in the shutoff valve with cpvc piping then to try to remove the entire valve itself.
The few times I came across a compression stop on cpvc, I did whatever was necessary to remove it and replace it with a threaded adaptor and stop. Afterwards I tell the owner that cpvc is a flooded house just waiting to happen.
Works.
It would be great if you used the wrenches in the correct orientation
It's called an escutcheon.
Instead of doing that on mine, I just fitted a 1/4 turn valve with female thread the size of the compression valve outlet
Nice idea for a puller, but 41.25 for a took I'd lose in my truck to high.
I wish you were in florida
If your on the east side I know a guy.
I cringed watching you take a knife to that copper pipe. I think I would have put the old pipe cover back on backwards to protect the drywall and then used a micro torch to burn off the old paint and crud from the copper pipe. All you’re left with is easily removable char residue. But you’ve shown me two cool tools to add to my plumbing box.
I didn't see where he drained the tank. I know water should have drained from the fill valve once the water supply line was disconnected.
He did not repair the stop valve, instead he went out and bought a new replacement. He said larger hose instead of Longer hose. He still left the stop valve against the toilet causing the same trouble in the future.
I make all kinds of mistakes all the time and own that. But this will not be an issue now because there is a 1/4 valve on there. The problem was that it would not shut off. Now it shuts off easy.
I have to say this. 1 i hate plumbing. 2 I hate paying plumbers more. So that out of the way... I am of the opinion these valves are designed to fail. I have never went under any sink or toilet where i didn't have to replace one of these bastards... NEVER. ya here comes the hard water people... its water, plumbing should be able to handle water. cant always control what the water is... plumbing engineers should handle it.
👍👍👍
So who got pee on the back wall and shut off valve? Hmmn?
🇺🇸🇺🇦❤🤍💙💛
Seriously? If you do it with new gate cake sure to get snoyyyer rep gfc
CALL a plumber or buy 60 $ worth of plumber tools you will us once .
this is scare, take cat to basement now
I've been a residential/commercial plumber for over 30 years and I honestly think you made me stupider by watching this video as almost everything you did was wrong including naming things. It's called an excursion not a cover and there was no need to put on a split version, also you twisted the supply line when installing it, you always install the supply line on the angle stop first
It’s an escutcheon, not an excursion.
If you’re going to (rudely) correct someone, at least get it right yourself. 🤦🏼♂️
As a master toilet mechanic I can appreciate these videos, even if he doesn't have a doctorate degree in toiletry, like I do.
There is more than one way to eat a Reeces. Thank you for your comments.
Lol guy tellin people whats whats and is calling it an excursion 😅😅 get ur stuff together pal !!!
That procedure will work only ONLY in houses/apartments with individual shut off valve, In my case, no, I do have an apartment, and we have to go to the basement, with permition from association and business bond to shut whole building out, That (my) angle valve is so close to the wall, so, freezing is not an option... 300 bucks > service plumber. and 10$ valve at homedepot/menards/lowes/ace
Great video. Tools not seen before.