Toilet Water Supply Valve Replacement | Can't Turn Off Water
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
- This video will walk you through how to stop a continually leaking toilet water supply valve and then replace with a new 1/4 turn valve. This project is very approachable by the majority of homeowners with a few tools. I will also show you why this valve failed and why I could not shutoff the water at this valve which continued to flow even with the handle screwed down completely closed.
Parts Used:
1/2" FIP 3/8" OD 1/4 shutoff valve: amzn.to/2NpUPw7
Teflon tape: amzn.to/3pzDi1C
1/2 Nipple: amzn.to/3k58gxc
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. 
Хобби
What I learned from all the comments:
1) Use a brass nipple as opposed to the black iron nipple shown in the video (Black iron and copper
2) I wrapped the Teflon tape in the wrong direction demonstrated at 4:55
You really should either pull this video down as the repair portion is mostly wrong, or heavily edit it. Most people don't read the comments so your mea culpa here doesn't really help.
I'd consider a plastic nipple or brass. Plastic won't have any chance of corrosion.
@@JerryFountain this is true someone like myself may fail to not read the comments because viewers are so negative in their posts. They may take Everyday Home Repair channel for what he has shown, at his word. Then later the troubles will begin for the repairer. This personally why anytime I am starting to learn how to repair I look at different videos first. There are some people out there with good intentions but they are wrong either through lack of experience or because each scenario is different that the homeowners will experience on their projects.
Another thing, black pipe is not normally used for water. It will rust too fast. Black pipe is used mostly for gas.
Virtual hug subliminal
I just love those 1/4 turn ball valves! They are very reliable. 21 years ago I replaced all the valves with 1/4 turn ball valves and not one has failed yet!!
I subscribed after my first video view - this is my second…
You are a very good teacher. I’m a 63 year old female who owns a home alone.
Knowledge is power always, but especially in a home. Thank you!
This was the most helpful video for my project ! And I watched many. So thank you! I did use a 1/2” rubber flat washer instead it seemed to fit better for me 🤷🏽♀️
Great video. Spot on about my issue. Seeing you take apart the valve revealed my particular issue. Thanks
This was a wonderful video and the comments were extremely helpful providing community consensus! Thank you.
I LOVE your videos, just excellent. I was actually looking for how to replace the valve without turning off the water St the mains. I live in a condo and can only have the whole floor turned off for repairs by a pro.
Thanks for sharing your valuable experience.
You mentioned debris in the pipe that clogged up the stop valve. So once you had the stop valve and nipple out a good tip is to hold a bucket in front of that copper pipe and have someone open the water supply to the house again for a few seconds to flush that line out then shut the water off and replace with a new angle stop and brass nipple
Hey Steve, nice idea with flushing a bit of water. I also will be taking the advice of many and swap out to Brass on Monday. Appreciate the feedback.
Thank you for this very well explained video.
Thank you for making these videos
Another awesome episode, thanks!
Very helpful !! Straight forward and easy to listen to .Thanks so much !!!!
You bet!
Nice video! As a suggestion, I would use a quarter turn on/off ball valve instead of a rubber washer based shut off valve as they are more reliable in the future as you don’t have to worry about the rubber washer from failing.
6:01 And read what it says on the valve...it's a 1/4 turn ball valve.
Yep, only way to go!
Never use Iron fittings with copper. Dissimilar metals. You applied Teflon tape in the wrong direction.
wasn't that nipple thing meant specifically to go from copper to iron?
@@jc40337 Nah, there are brass nipples more appropriate to the application.
The iron nipple should have been used with iron or galvanized plumbing.
I don't think he realized there was copper back there. Even though, should be ok. I learned a long time ago always go clockwise with teflon tape, 4 wraps, the tape only makes up the threads anyway, it is not to seal as many think, although same effect I guess.
@@heyallenify I agree, but many appliances, like water heaters have galvanized pipe to hook up to your copper lines, I guess they don't want them to last. Figures
@@jthonn Not sure what you're saying about making the threads, but the teflon is there to fill the imperfections in the threads, as the water (or whatever you're using the pipes for) will leak through the gaps in the threads.
With higher quality fittings, there is less call for the tape, and flare joints don't require it since they have machined sealing surfaces, but NPT joints typically require a sealant.
Gotta replace the guts of a toilet in an old 1940s house, and this is the same exact situation I'm facing - a leaky old screw-in shutoff valve. Great video!
Using a steel nipple into copper causes electrolysis from the two dissimilar metals. You should use a brass nipple instead
Thanks For the feedback Troy. I was reading some mixed opinions on this subject 🤷♂️
@@EverydayHomeRepairs tbh it’s pretty common practice. there isn’t much debate that brass stops electrolysis. however a short 1-1/2 - 2 inch nipple might not help very much
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Dissimilar metals is chemistry, and chemistry doesn't care about opinions. Go with chemistry.
Thank goodness they dont fail very often but they are a pretty easy fix, great video
Your tutorial just saved me! Thank you!
You bet!
Very helpful, thank you 🙏
Great advice - thanks!
Good information. Thanks
Excellent Dude, Great work
Thanks Sabai 👍
Great explanation.
Thank you for such educational video
You bet!
Great video . And no obnoxious guitar rift intro. Perfect .
Thanks, most of as already know, your intention was good and you know how!
Very helpful thanks 🙏
You're welcome
You should have used a brass or copper nipple ilo steel. The same corrosion will occur with the new steel nipple. Contact between dissimilar metals (copper against steel) causes bi-metallic (galvanic) corrosion.
For future valve repairs, I use quarter-turn valves for this especially in rentals. Tenants are more likely to turn it off with phone coaching and there should be a lot less future valve maintenance... valuable, especially if you own the property.
Nice job!!
When you tightened the new nipple, it would be better to put a second wrench on the copper female fitting so that the soldered joint in the wall isn't subjected to all that torque. The same thing applies when tightening the valve onto the nipple. A second wrench (a pipe wrench or vise grips) on the nipple would prevent the soldered joint from feeling all that torque.
I saw that
Also the pliers get a better grip turned around the other way like using a pipe wrench.
Definitely need to hold back,?he got away with it this time but….
The advice is great, except that in this scenario, it would not be possible to use a wrench to hold the nipple while installing the new valve. This is because the escutcheon did not leave much room on the nipple for a wrench.
Wondered about myself. And also some penetrating oil on the old valve joint prior to loosening.
Thanks Brother.
The teflon tape that you put on the new pipe nipple was wrapped counterclockwise instead of clockwise. Won't wrapping the teflon tape in this direction caused the tape to unwind when you screw it into the wall fitting?
Yes, he wrapped it wrong, good eye!
The ferrel in the compression fitting doesn’t expand it compresses around the pipe creating the seal. Hence compression fitting.
Thank you
I just did the exact valve replacement, the steel pipe looked rotted just as in video. Unfortunately, I would have to tear out the tiled bathroom wall to replace nipple. I just cleaned up what was left of threads the best I could with emery cloth and was able to get the new valve to catch a few threads. I used a heavier teflon tape designated for oil/gas/hydrocarbon to help seal the buggered threads. Repair seems secure, hope it will last at least 5 years AND hope for a small leak as the failure mode. The alternative was to tear up an old bathroom wall after which will never match tile and may get into other problems. Does anyone have any constructive advice or alternatives? Thanks
There's a reason that most places require an apprentice plumber to go to school for five years and work at least 10,000 hours under the direct supervision of a licensed plumber before being allowed to apply to take the licensing exam. This guy made a good effort, but proved that there's a good reason for the minimum requirements.
Agree that licensure is great. Unfortunately, I’ve seen many licensed guys save money or time by just throwing something together that gets the job done. Go to any hot area where there’s a lot of housing going up and unfortunately you see some pretty poor quality work. It might be electric, plumbing or HVAC and it may pass code but it was done cheap.
Do they have ball valves for this application and, if so, would it have been a good idea to use one?
Do you need to cut off copper pipe for compression fitting ? Can you just clean / deburr it?
excellent "how to" video. However, I would be amiss if I didn't point out that you applied the teflon tape in the wrong direction. It should be applied in the direction that you will be turning the threads to tighten. Much like you do when attaching copper wire to a switch. Making the hook in the direction you are going to tighten the screw. Also, you tightened the nipple with the channel locks in the backwards position for tightening. Also I didn't understand the point of installing the cap on the valve. Seemed like a waste of money to me. Hey, other than that, good to go.
Thanks for the feedback. The cap was more for a demonstration for those that might need to stop the leak but from one reason or another aren’t or can’t fix the valve at the same time. I have used these caps in the past on various renovation projects to stop slow leaks over time. 👍
Indeed, EastTexan, to all the above. I would have also used the second channel locks to hold the pipe being screwed into... could do damage to the inner-wall joint if it's overtightned by not holding it in place while screwing in the new nipple. UGG!! I see others are also pointing out most of these issues. Oh well, it'll all hold.. for a while anyway! :D Flush away!
@@SteveFarmerMusic I was looking for the comment about using the channel lock pliers backwards. The teeth are designed to dig in in only one direction.
This doesn't matter. The old coot who taught you this had OCD
@@gregandrews7281 lol. who are you responding to with this comment?
Great video. I would have never known that this could be the cause of a leaking valve.
I believe I had a similar situation happened to me with a bathtub faucet stem valve. Went to remove the leaking valve and found metal shavings inside where the valve seat was. I removed the shavings and replaced the valve but I had no idea that the shavings themselves could have been what caused the problem.
Do you have any videos with chrome plated copper sleeve over copper supply line? I assume I need to sweat it off to replace the valve but, I can’t find a good video of that. Any suggestions?
Can you fit a 12 inch toilet into a 11 inch space? Like perhaps the tank top can be pushed up to fit? Just wondered . I mean from wall to screw.
What do you do if the old threaded valve doesn’t come off so easily as yours did when I try to turn it? It’s stuck and I don’t want to use too much force to turn it cause I’m scared of possibly damaging the pipe.
Question: How to get the new valve pointed upward? Is there that much margin in the threading?
wow that looks easy
I wonder. Once you had the old broken pipe with the broken threads off could you have briefly turned on the water to make sure that all the small broken pieces were out of the pipe? If not what did you do to make sure all the small debris was gone?
Does the heat gun really work? Have a water line directly to toilet with no shutoff. Tried to add one but unable to loosen nut, afraid was going to damage pipe
I always wrap the tape in the opposite direction of the thread. 'With' the thread would likely cause the tape to peel back when installing the nipple/part. It may or may not leak.
Yep, wrapped backwards. I always hate seeing people who seem to be basically competent at what they do, but then do something pretty basic that's thought to be generally incorrect. Leaves me scratching my head :P Oh well.. it still worked! :D Flush away!
As long as it doesn't bind up, looks like it didn't. As far as leaking, probably wouldn't leak even if you didn't use any.
Did they make the piping out of Iron for water supply? I thought they used galvanized steel in old homes. I have so much galvanized steel I've had to replace inside and out of my house.
In my house the only iron is used in the drain.
Put the Teflon tape on backwards where it could back off when tightening
Any chance if getting a Q answered Now? I see most comments 7 mos ago!! COULD THIS PROBLEM LEAK "BACK" behind wall and down under floor? I have toilet leak wetting under floor thru bathroom and down hall. I shut the VALVE but water in bowl still is rushing in.
i want to replace the toilet shut off valve with a quarter turn ball valve. HOWEVER, it is attached to a PVC pipe by
glued/solvent (i think). every video i have seen show cutting the pvc pipe end off to remove the valve.
if i did that there might not be enough to attach a ball valve.
can a glued on valve be removed without cutting? if it is sharkbite or the like, are they removable without cutting?
did you put the teflon tape in wrong direction ?
If it's just small dripping leak, does it really make a difference if it's connected to the toilet valve? Wouldn't the toilet valve stop the leak downstream?
Aren't you connecting dissimilar metals (Cu and Fe), which will result in electrolytic corrosion? If so, you need a dielectric coupling in between them.
If you can't turn off the water supply and you only want to get the valve unstuck, you can soak the valve in vinegar to dissolve the scale. This might take a full day or several days, but the handle should turn easily by hand without force or risk of catastrophic failure.
INSTRUCTIONS: Fill a small plastic bag with vinegar. Hold the bag opening over the valve assembly so that the handle and stem are soaking in the vinegar. The vinegar will be in a corner of the bag, and most of the plastic bag will be bunched up around the valve assembly. Secure the bag to the valve assembly with rubber bands so you do not have to hold it. There will be some leakage, but most vinegar should stay where you want it.
Just curious. Did you not have a rag/cloth or something covering the toilet hole? You don't want the sewer gases coming up.
Please learn how to use a pair of channel locks... please
Also you put the Teflon tape on backwards and also using your channel locks incorrectly
Ditto on the teflon and not replacing with iron. Also, to clean out that rotted mess use an old tooth brush, a rag or small brass brush if you have it and then get a big pan like he has and open up the water for a bit to flush out any debris that still far back in the pipe that you missed and it should help you alot. Also run the water wide open for a while after al is installed for same reason. Thoe little bits can drive you mad.
Good point! Especially when connected to a faucet with any kind of aerator/screen. I always take those off the faucet for the first day and let the itty bits wash out - then put the aerator back on. Wall la!
what size is the cap you put on and what is it called? i have that problem right now--dripping 1 drop a second into a small container--my repair guy is coming in the am--guess i will be up several times to dump it
Hey John, this video shows the cap and more importantly flat washer used. Links in the description of that video will show the exact sizes. ruclips.net/video/zyxbd_0EdgI/видео.html
There is still dripping water from the wall pipe.
I have the same problem with my shower wall mounted tap. I thought the problem would be inside the wall. Looking at your video I am not sure now.
Wouldn't it be better to use a galvanized or brass nipple to avoid rust?
Just what I was thinking...
That was a galvanized nipple he used. When the treads are cut the galvanized is gone. I would have use a brass nipple.
I agree, using steel parts against a copper fitting is going to cause corrosion.
Great video , tape should go the other way
When trying to remove mine the hole thing turns too so i stopped cause i dont want to damage anything. I dont knwo if iam unscreing it or the hole pipe inside turning too?? I have seen so many videos where they use two players one to hold the turn vaulve in place and the other one to loosent up the compression bolt
I couldn’t tell with the lighting but was that a galvanized or iron nipple you installed? I hoped you were just using the wrong term and it was galvanized; even though it wouldn’t be ideal (dissimilar metals) you at least put ptfe on (though the wrong direction apparently). Iron is only meant for gas. Galvanized and brass can be used with gas or water.
In this case a brass nipple would’ve been ideal since brass already has copper in it and won’t oxidize at the joint
Why did you put the teflon tape on a clockwise direction? When you screw the nipple on clockwise, the tape will tend to come off the nipple.
Will this cause a high water bill???
HI.....How can I do this, if I can't shut off the main water supply?
I remember replacing one of those old cast pipe fixture valves. The entire section on pipe unthreaded itself inside the wall... Decided to call a plumber when that happened
😭😭
You have to be careful assuming that an angle stop shutoff with a hex is either a compression or pipe thread. Some are sweat fittings with a chromed brass tube and the hex is just for appearances.
Replace the washer is a lot easier, I did it for mine, got the from ACE hardware store.
Totally different subject but what can I do to stop my toilet system get condensation on the outside in the Uk it's a real pain .?
Stay safe stay well
Not much you can do. It’s condensation from the cold water in the tank combined with warm humid air outside, the same way a glass of water sweats on a hot day
Flush less 😉. Is your toilet always running, if so then the tank always has cold water in it and can never get to room temperature for it to stop causing condensation.
Edit : Changed 'it's' to 'is'.
Nicholas Hunter thanks for replying, stay safe stay well
Dustin Tunis thanks for replying, stay safe stay well.
With Toilets you really get what you pay for. The cheaper ones are not manufactured/built like the more expensive toilets, i.e., glazed, etc.
They are called "Stop valves". Repair kits for them are inexpensive and easy to install. Especially if they are soldered on, it might be an option to just repair it.
I would use a brass nipple instead of steel, your creating the same problem that you just repaired.
I would suggest you wrap the Teflon tape in the other direction, so it stays firm in place as you screw in the nipple. Also, don’t use another steel nipple to brass or copper, splurge on a brass nipple instead, which will avoid the issue you had with the nipple corroding into the valve. I have also started carefully using only 1/4 turn stop valves with stainless ball inside a brass casting, as well as a non plastic handle. Over time these valves get sticky and the plastic handle will break when you try to turn one off.
@@kimbuck2177 some copper fittings are threaded adapters that are soldered onto the pipe. So that you can transition to other kinds of devices. For example, copper pipe runs to a water heater, but is terminated sometimes with a male fitting, then a flexible stainless tubing is used to run the last few feet. If the water heater needs service, it can be disconnected easily. Lots of other examples.
What can you if the nut won’t come off because it stripped?
I'm pretty certain that you wrapped the tape on reverse of the direction that the valve turned on.
did you wrap the tape the wrong way?
Because of dissimilar metal corrosion, I wouldn't use a steel nipple in a copper fitting. Use a brass nipple and there won't be corrosion on 5-10 years.
Agree, thanks for the comment Bill 👍
I thought he was going to do this repair with the water turned on! Title says cannot turn off water, but apparently he did.
Wouldn't say it's misleading, just not worded properly. I was under the same assumption when I clicked.
I'd rather use a ball valve shut-off valve instead of the old valve.
Not in this application, otherwise I would agree
@@jthonn Why would a ball valve not be better in this application?
pardon me the brass ferrel doesn't expand and seal. It is compressed there by contracting to seal.
What if your home was built in the 70s. No pipe coming out of the wall. Straight to the toilet also shut off valve
In my circles “Hitting a snag” also known as “can of worms” followed by a long list of curse words
i literally had this issue yesterday at my work...i had to change the angle stop live with no water shutoff, it was a freaking mess but i did it. lolol
You mentioned compression rings. Are compression rings orientation dependent?
I think they are symmetrical, no difference front or back
I'm so happy that gate valves are being phased out. Garbage.
I would have extended the copper and installed a 1/2" compression valve. You never want to join dissimilar metals as that equals corrosion.
I doubled back today and install a brass as opposed to black iron nipple which should avoid future issues.👍
Why did you use your pliers backwards?
The channel-locks?
Wow, use your channel locks right!
Why wouldn't you put the right angle in off jump?
I think a brass nipple work better bcz never get corrosion
Totally agree, will be swapping it out tomorrow 👍
Would scotch tape work?
For all my fellow plumbers out there I use teflon tape and pipe dope for my treaded connections except gas pipe.let me know your opinions on tape and dope.
Estás poniendo el tefon al revés . Se pone para el otro lado.y estás cometiendo el mismo error.
No se instala tubo galvanizado.por q se pudre
Le tienes q poner tubo de Bronze.
My toilet copper wire inside the toilet is steady leaking water
Why bother with the 3/8 cap when you're just changing the valve anyway. Just put a rag on the floor for any last water drips.
Good question but that was just to demo as other homeowners might need to cap for a day or 2 prior to changing. Should have made that point more clear, thx.