Yea the spool holder on top _can_ cause more vibration if the printer is unstable to begin with but in most cases, especially with the quality of what most Ender like machines print you wont notice that at all, its fine on top if its mounted correctly and your printer is stable. Never knew about the trick with graphite, although I would personally argue that getting some bearings is maybe the cleaner solution and they really cost next to nothing, not refuting your method. Heating the hotend to print temp and quickly pulling the filament with a depressed extruder is actually a good way to change your filament. Since it is at printing temperature there will be little resistance and stress on any part and it does clean the hotend a bit from the softer filament. Not refuting your way of changing, there are a bunch of valid ways to do it. Cutting the filament at an angle just helps a lot with getting it in the hole of the extruder in my experience. Filament is not straight and with a flat end it just likes to get caught up on the extruder parts (gear or 2nd hole), the cut helps a lot to guide it through the extruder. Doesn't change anything about it being in the PTFE tube. And well what you said about the stock plate/surface, you can make it work no problem. Although if you do have a printer with a fixed bed (like my CR-20 Pro) you might also have a warped bed and only a new surface like glass can really straighten that out as any flexible surface will carry over the warping. Nice video overall, there are a lot of changes in the 3D printing space that people seem are necessary when a lot of them actually don't do much or can be archived in a different way. Some people just seem to feel like there is only one way to do things.
LOL, exactly right! I have an Ender 3 and have a dual extruder, two rolls on top and have never, ever had an issue with it. I did make a roller carriage for my spools with bearings though but that is correct, graphite powder is a fantastic lubricant and would work just fine. Not sure how that would do with a print under it though and dont want to experiment with something that could drop particles on my build. Still that I am sure would be minute but something I would avoid.
That's a good point about dropping graphite onto the print Kevin. I did check for that and it's fine, even after a 12 hour print. It's only a thin layer that gets applied to the spool holder and it just rubs off onto the interior of the spool.
@@PVG3DPrints Good to know, I know that graphite is diamagnetic and it would depend on how interactions on the surface it is on. To some extent everything has a magnetic property of some sort, even if it is just created by friction, and that can play into how it attracts or repels.
Hi Paul, new sub. Have you any experience with using the Borosilicate glass bed for the Create? I am getting back into printing (I have the Cocoon Create) and have purchased the glass bed from Cocoon. I am having major issues with leveling as the print head wants to push down through the glass and is heavily compressing the leveling screws.
First up, thanks for the Sub Michael! Unfortunately I don't have any experience with the Borosilicate glass bed. If you've run out of adjustment on the bed screws can you adjust the Z screw stop switch to limit how far the print head lowers?
Thanks Paul, I apologise if this is not the forum for q&a. I am guessing the adjustments are made via the two allen nuts below the spool holder on the r/h of the machine? If so, is it simply a matter of loosening, lifting and re tightening in the slot/ position above?
In my experience it is people like this who have just got a printer and have only had it for a few months and suddenly they are all knowing and are experts. I would not waste time answering these ignorant claims against what you do because the reality is you are dead right on all charges. I would just tell him to go back to printing and come back in a year and try that same ignorant argument!
I maintain professionally 7 FDM and 3 SLA printers since 2017, so I am not that new into this field. He said his opinions in his video and so I did with my comment. My comment was based on his printer since I've worked with very similar models. My fault I didn't explain my thoughts in detail in my first comment. I posted a couple details/answers on this video that might be helpful.
Angle cutting the filament is always a good idea. I also cut a little chamfer in the ptfe tube inner edge with a drill bit, that helped as well
Nice tip! Thanks Matthew 👍
you only have to see your prints to see there's no problems..your parts are mint the quality amazing ..
Thanks Darren
Yea the spool holder on top _can_ cause more vibration if the printer is unstable to begin with but in most cases, especially with the quality of what most Ender like machines print you wont notice that at all, its fine on top if its mounted correctly and your printer is stable.
Never knew about the trick with graphite, although I would personally argue that getting some bearings is maybe the cleaner solution and they really cost next to nothing, not refuting your method.
Heating the hotend to print temp and quickly pulling the filament with a depressed extruder is actually a good way to change your filament.
Since it is at printing temperature there will be little resistance and stress on any part and it does clean the hotend a bit from the softer filament.
Not refuting your way of changing, there are a bunch of valid ways to do it.
Cutting the filament at an angle just helps a lot with getting it in the hole of the extruder in my experience. Filament is not straight and with a flat end it just likes to get caught up on the extruder parts (gear or 2nd hole), the cut helps a lot to guide it through the extruder. Doesn't change anything about it being in the PTFE tube.
And well what you said about the stock plate/surface, you can make it work no problem.
Although if you do have a printer with a fixed bed (like my CR-20 Pro) you might also have a warped bed and only a new surface like glass can really straighten that out as any flexible surface will carry over the warping.
Nice video overall, there are a lot of changes in the 3D printing space that people seem are necessary when a lot of them actually don't do much or can be archived in a different way. Some people just seem to feel like there is only one way to do things.
LOL, exactly right! I have an Ender 3 and have a dual extruder, two rolls on top and have never, ever had an issue with it. I did make a roller carriage for my spools with bearings though but that is correct, graphite powder is a fantastic lubricant and would work just fine. Not sure how that would do with a print under it though and dont want to experiment with something that could drop particles on my build. Still that I am sure would be minute but something I would avoid.
That's a good point about dropping graphite onto the print Kevin. I did check for that and it's fine, even after a 12 hour print. It's only a thin layer that gets applied to the spool holder and it just rubs off onto the interior of the spool.
@@PVG3DPrints Good to know, I know that graphite is diamagnetic and it would depend on how interactions on the surface it is on. To some extent everything has a magnetic property of some sort, even if it is just created by friction, and that can play into how it attracts or repels.
Agree with everything you say!
Thanks Wayne!
Hi Paul, new sub. Have you any experience with using the Borosilicate glass bed for the Create? I am getting back into printing (I have the Cocoon Create) and have purchased the glass bed from Cocoon. I am having major issues with leveling as the print head wants to push down through the glass and is heavily compressing the leveling screws.
First up, thanks for the Sub Michael! Unfortunately I don't have any experience with the Borosilicate glass bed. If you've run out of adjustment on the bed screws can you adjust the Z screw stop switch to limit how far the print head lowers?
Thanks Paul, I apologise if this is not the forum for q&a. I am guessing the adjustments are made via the two allen nuts below the spool holder on the r/h of the machine? If so, is it simply a matter of loosening, lifting and re tightening in the slot/ position above?
Sorted it out, thanks for the advice, your suggestion was correct.
In my experience it is people like this who have just got a printer and have only had it for a few months and suddenly they are all knowing and are experts. I would not waste time answering these ignorant claims against what you do because the reality is you are dead right on all charges. I would just tell him to go back to printing and come back in a year and try that same ignorant argument!
Thanks Kevin. Normally I would just dismiss it but there were too many inaccuracies and felt it might mislead people new to 3D printing.
I maintain professionally 7 FDM and 3 SLA printers since 2017, so I am not that new into this field.
He said his opinions in his video and so I did with my comment. My comment was based on his printer since I've worked with very similar models. My fault I didn't explain my thoughts in detail in my first comment. I posted a couple details/answers on this video that might be helpful.