Kudos dude. This is one of the absolute best how to videos I have ever watched. The details on the parts you used makes it right up there at the top. You didn't get bogged down in the minutiae of everything you did but also didn't do the 30,000 feet gloss over either. PERFECT ! ! ! You made me order a vader. My wife hates you.
@bobscat-wj4ub actually flicking the throttle before hitting the starter, is a way to prime fuel into the intake. Try it yourself without an air filter and you'll see fuel literally spit out of the carb. ***When not using the choke (as you saw in the video), you can try the method I used for when the engine does turn on, you can keep her alive with some extra little throttle till she is warm enough to hold idle on her own, instead of the using the choke.*** This is how people used to have to turn carburetored cars way back in the day when they had trouble turning them on.
@bobscat-wj4ub I will add, there are sweet spots you have to find when doing this which is why you saw me twisting it. And I will also add that I used too much throttle to turn her on in this video which I literally acknowledged. But I don't hide nothing, this is how it is irl with anything sometimes 😄
@bobscat-wj4ub you seem to miss understand but, to each their own. Without the choke, I can prime the carb and do this and turn it on fairly easily. Because there is no choke, I keep the rpms high enough till warmed up. In this video, upon firing up I added a bit too much throttle. The idea is only to keep her alive with no keep by using a bit of throttle. I know how engines work, which has nothing to do with me starting the bike. There are tricks to carbs out of the book you can learn as well.
Bro checked out a lot of your video was skimming past some other how to videos, but they sucked. I feel like yours are probably the best out of all the ones I skimmed through. Thanks again I ordered a Vader and I’m going to see about these parts and everything, keep at it!😎
Brother I must have watched over a hundred videos like this and this is by far the best and most detailed videos I’ve seen! This just made my life a whole lot easier to start working on my bike. Thank you for having all the parts clear and simple!🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 Are you local??? I’m in south Florida. I see you have a shop in this video
Hey! I'm glad that this video helped you out! Thanks for watching Unfortunately I'm in the opposite side of the country from you. I'm in CA, but I have built 2 other bikes for clients the same way.
Man this video you made , you came through like a thoroughbred with the info on drilling on the engine for better fitting bolts and the rest of the the upgrades, i myself am into the small bikes big time and I’m doing mods on mine also trying to get my cousin and a couple of friends into them also, we’re youngsters you know 45 to 50 years young😂😂😂😂 and have always been into 🏍 ‘s . Thanks for the video man, to everyone , Ride Hard n Ride Safe 👍🏼Cheers From East Los Angeles ✌🏼👨🏼🦲👌🏼🛵🏍💯
Back at yah man! Thanks for the kind words. These little inexpensive bikes humble you a bit. And no, you're not old, not even close. Trust me 🙂 Cheers!!
Hello. Sorry that this video doesn't exactly work to your convenience. I tried to fit as much info as i could on this video without making it too long. A lot of stuff I did not showcase are things that one can figure out once you're in there. There will be a video for the bearings, shafts and cush drive and other little stuff soon. Hope you enjoyed!
@damianmurillo6203 They are the same. Xpro and Venom are really just different companies that buy this bike from "Jiangsu Baodiao Locomotive Co., Ltd" which is the actual make. You'll soon realize when you do DMV work, no where will you see Xpro or Venom anywhere! They slap their name on it and then assembe it. They say Venom is assembled better, and so it costs more... My Xpro, however, was assembled great. There was literally nothing wrong when i took it apart.
Love your video. Best one I've seen on how to replace needed parts for these kind of bike! You explained very well why you should do these mods. Thank you!
Old guy here , back when synthetic oil came along, it was great for your motor but a wet cluth would slip under a good load. I believe they have a happy medium now. Better slick protection for moving parts and still allows clutch plates to grab. Tbe motor still needs to be broken in.
Hey I went ahead and subbed because this video was fantastic I really like how you actually told us where to get the parts, if you could a how to video on some of the replacement stuff would be absolutely fantastic
Great video!!! Wish it was more in depth but for what its worth, I think you did a fantastic job! I wrote down notes that I need to improve my 🏍! So thank you!! I appreciate your help!!!
Awesome informative video man thanks for the knowledge! I've been thinking about selling my crf250l and getting one of these to mess around on but now I'm thinking it may be better to just get a used Grom instead. It'd be about the same price and a lot more reliable without having to do all these upgrades.
You're right about that, and there's nothing wrong with that! Idk what year Grom I rode for a couple of days, but it didn't have a gear indicator, and it for sure had less torque than mine lol 😂 glad you enjoyed it!
I paid a couple hundred more and bought the RPS Condor 150. It already has bigger frame bolts. Still needs a few upgrades, but it's the heavier duty between the two.
Awesome video at 10:40 what did you end up doing with that hose that throws oil at higher rpm? Did you put a catch can system or did you just plug it off?
Leave the hose connected. Do not plug it up. It is to keep the engine case vented. Route it somewhere out back maybe not directly in front of the back tire. It won't be spewing a bunch of oil but can in some cases
Thanks was going to get my daughter a used grom but everything you did put this at the same price and I feel would be better than a stock grom anyways.
Great video. My exhaust needs way more modding to install than yours. I wish I would have seen this video sooner. Either way great info and good luck with it.
It's easier knowing it would work. The flow from a 22 to a 26 on these engines on a sub 200lb bike is so small. it's literally not worth mentioning at all. It works perfectly. On top of that, I have bigger motors that do use 26mm, so I had a couple lying around. If you got for a bigger carb because you bore it or get a bigger motor... even better.
Yeah dude this is really in-depth you been doing above and beyond the call of duty man love to watch this video very knowable. My thing is at this amount of work might as well just get the original Honda groom oem and used market one time
@anythinggarage I got the same carburetor, did the swap with the flange and emissions delete. But I can’t see to get the bike to start up, it’s a constant crank and no start
but i dont really wanna spend that much all at once so what are the main things that i should get edit : easy things i dont wanna take the whole thing apart
The easiest and best things to get are the 24mm nibbi carb kit, throttle kit, and the manifold. Look at the description. Also, get the exhaust. There should be 2 links for that. The free: You will have to get rid of all of the emissions stuff, cut down and close the egr tube, get rid of the charcoal canister, and take off the valve on the fuel breather. This should give you the best bang for buck. There is no need to remove the motor. Your motor mounts should survive for a short time, but just be aware that eventually, your frame will break.
You can buy a chain breaker on ebay relatively cheap or use a socket, punch, and hammer to hammer a pin off. It gets frustrating but works. There's videos on how to do this. Kids can do it.
Had to drop a comment. Amazing video I’ll be picking up a grom clone that hits top speed 65mph I want to make the experience more comforting and faster if possible It comes with two seats Now I know what to work on I hate to ask before finishing the video In total how much did you spend to modify?
I personally have a 22' Grom SP. Have about 2000 miles on it. And since Ive got it, Ive changed the oil, that's it. I haven't had to rebuild the bike from new to make it reliable. I do believe in you get what you pay for. And its fuel injected, not carby. But if you cant afford a brand name, reliable, known machine. Ka-boom Vader is an ok second best.
I agree with you on this at a certain point. I can't justify spending 5k on this type of motorcycle for what I will use it for and what it can do. Just in my specific case. For $1500 ide say it's worth it with only a few things to get it good to go
Quit it with the brand name reliable n well known😂😂😂 Homeboy in the video installed and did what 99% of grom heads do , which is install aftermarket parts but in the end , his vader will be just as reliable or better and for sure it’s faster !😅😂 And in the end , homeboy has a faster and just as reliable bike for half the price Mr SO CAL, CORN DOG!!!✌🏼🤣🤣🤣🤣!! To all riders , cheers from East Los Angeles , Ride Hard n Ride Safe!!✌🏼👨🏼🦲👌🏼🛵🏍💯
Thanks glad you enjoyed! Parts like $550 or so... excluding the rear shock. So probably $1850 for the bike and taxes and shipping and parts and everything.
No hate because I'm looking at an Icebear furza (to keep stock) but with all these upgrades... wouldn't it make more sense to get an actual Grom? I mean all those upgrades to actual Grom parts seems like it would get you close to the Grom price minus the manual labor...
Quating what i said to someone else. And btw, you can actually get one of these $200 cheaper at RedFox. "No, not even close. The bike total price cost me $1500. All of these parts except the expensive rear shock I decided to use only cost about $400. Bringing the bike to a total cost of $1900. That includes the $275 I paid for shipping and taxes (bike itself is $1100 before taxes and shipping). A Honda Grom Stock is $3800-$4100 (abs or no abs) new after taxes IF THEY SELL AT MSRP without a single penny of Dealer Markup! This is not even including any other fees like Destination Charge Fee and Freight Surcharge fee + (Dealer Fee, DMV (Documentation) Fee, Processing Fee, Service/Set-up fees AND MORE if you finance it." So in the end you're probably looking at around $5000. For a Grom. Up to you!!
@@anythinggarage 🤔 You're absolutely correct. I'm just too lazy to do anything beyond bolt ons and electronics...😅 I have a df250rts (x22r) I've done just about all basic bolt ons (except exhaust the one it came with is actually perfect) But I want a little more pick up and top end... Getting a rear sprocket for this bike is probably as involved as installing it. As far as carbs...sure I can bolt it on... tuning it on the other hand...🛫😶
If you don't get the unnecessary rear shock (only got it for the red spring and reservoir look tbh), all parts cost me $550. So add that to total price. Cheapest Grom clone that I know of is the Boss Motor 125 for 999.99 +$300 shipping. Comes with red calipers, VERY HARD front gold shocks, and maybe a better seat. Overall. The X-Pro is a smidge above in quality control and final build IMO. Your total is gonna be around $1950 shipped with taxes and all parts used here.
@rramales1 I been doing things like this for a few years so I'm used to it. Just a skill you gain in time. It is not too hard to install. Wish I would have made a how-to video though
I did use the stock clutch cable. You are right. I will admit the stock lever feels a bit better than the aftermarket. But I got used to the aftermarket one. I have not tried a new cable as of yet.
You will at least need to change out the stock brake light that comes with the boom for it to fit, I’m not sure if the exhaust mount will get in the way or not, I think it’s just the stock brake light
Keep the kit. I will have an update video soon. There are 2 very simple modifications you have to do to make it work. 1) Cut the middle peice off one of the plates from the kit. 1b) Install tailight at an angle (just like stock but angled to fit with eliminator kit). Use nylon lock nuts so they won't vibrate off like regular nuts. 2) Cut the middle part off of rear seat fairing to fit the tailight. Easier done than said. Works with stock tailight. I'm using the kit in this video.
You used 3/8 bolts. The holes in the case were probably drilled to metric and when you drilled to 3/8 you didn't take out a lot of metal so couldn't you have just used a grade 8 metric bolt that would fit the metric hole in the case???
Yes! This is a thing that has been talked about before. I forget what metric size bolt they use as an alternative for 3/8, but in general the 3/8 is thicker and much more sturdy than the metric counter part as there is still slight wiggle with the metric bolt. Drilling everything out with 3/8 also makes an exact fit for better overall reliability!
It would probably be M9 but not sure. Just looking to save having to pull the motor. I think if I was going with 3/8, I would try to just drill one mount at a time with the engine mounted. But thanks for the response.
Plus, I was thinking it would be better to leave as much metal on the case as possible since it is aluminum and much weaker. Again, a REALLY great video.
Hey I bought the same carb and throttle cable but I’m having a hard time getting the idle down and for some reason it sounds cammed and when I try to rev it it bogs out
You may need to watch how-to videos for Carberutors and learn to tune a carb. Temperature, humidity, altitude (elevation) all have something to do with tuning a Carberutor. You can't have the same jets or tune as somebody else. Luckily live near sea level. The jets that came installed in my carb (should be the same ones in yours) and the way it came tuned works perfect for me.
@@jajajaja4590 on the old shifter? (It's a linkage made of plastic). On the new shifter. It's just a foot lever connecter directly to the shift shaft on the motor
Whats the overall cost of buying the bike and doing all the mods? Also how long did it take to install all these parts? I'm really curious if this is worthwhile considering you can get a used honda grom for around $2500-$2800.
Brand new, including taxes, shipping and tags, and every mod and parts used here (except unnecessary rear shock, which I got for looks), it comes out to $1900. It did not take me very long at all, but that's because I do small projects and I'm comfortable with mechanics and some fab work.I'm
Hey man have you had any trouble with insurance. Im having trouble with my vin not being recognized or something like that they dont have my bike in system
Did that throttle kit with cable need any adjustments with the carb? Ive had a 26mm nibbi i used with the stock throttle cable and had so much play in the throttle which was annoying. Returned the 26mm though because it was to big and had issues. Was tryna see if that throttle kit and cable worked perfect or not
@@anythinggarage hows the 22mm holding up though? I heard the 22mm is to small and 26mm is to big so people say go with the 24mm. If you havent touched the idle or fuel screw since you dialed it in the video and etc ill most likely get the same one you have with the throttle cable setup
@@anythinggarage im also trying to find that 3 bolt intake manifold you installed but cant find it. Or did that not work that good so you got another one?
The Condor uses a completely different engine! Definitely not the same bike, although they do share SOME grom parts. I would not use this video for ideas.
Any help if your link to the ball barrings where sold out? N ah bunch of other questions I have being new to the bike life if it's possible to getchu on the phone fah a quick sec, but please lmk
I have part numbers for the axles and bearings for you to search at your convenience! I don't mind questions here. I can answer to the best of my ability, and it may help others as well.
Mounting hole? As in on the engine where the bolt goes through? Try using a punch/rod and hammer or something of the likes. Try not to cause damage inside. Goodluck!
I have the Tao Tao hellcat 125 and It’s kinda trashy rn, my plan it to put it up on a stand and use this summers free time to get it clean and pristine
so for someone on a budget what are the real essential parts to change so that its reliable to ride(short distances since i want one for commuting to school) and last a bit longer
$1900 with everything. Otherwise stock you're looking at about $1400 after everthing including tags, taxes, shipping and all that. I've used real gross before and they are literally identical in everything. Def not recommended for long distance haha
Yes! As long as you use manifolds with the same bolt pattern. The 26mm intake manifold and 22mm Carb sizes are only the inside circle diameter of these flanges.
That would be a bit of a waste. 125cc is already small but can still be dangerous if you have absolutely no idea what your doing. Study riding. And even take a class for it. You'll be in and out of a 50cc in a weeks time though.
Did you have to swap jets or tune the carburetor? I just installed the same carburetor as you and it bogs every time I snap the throttle. I also have the same throttle and cable as you. I’ve tried tuning it for hours. I’ve even swapped the pilot jet out and no luck still. I’m lost
My carb is still perfect to this day. It may be because the jets and adjustments are generically set by the manufacturer for a specific altitude and ambient setting. I live in CA at 350ft above sea level (which is GREAT!), and it's always warm here. Could just be my case.
@@anythinggarage I just noticed that I installed the new carb with the fuel filter that came with it. Did I need to use it? Since there’s already the factory one right before the fuel cutoff switch.
@hdubby2219 technically it would limit flow and have a hard time getting all the fuel it needs into the carb. I've even heard of inline shut off valves doing this. I recommended one of those in vid but not so much anymore. GL!
Yes it work perfectly fine. It has the correct flange diameter, it's actually harder and more of a headache finding 22mm or 24mm intakes than it is the standard 26mm sizes for these engines
@fernandogutierrez7985 Buy a 22mm nibbi carb and use it with a 26mm intake. Or a 24mm carb with the 26mm intake if you prefer as well. Personally, 26mm carbs are much harder to tune and go out of wack a lot more than the smaller ones. Mostly because 26mm is just too big for a 125cc engine. In fact, when you use 26mm carb, you gotta "detune" them with smaller jets and run them leaner than how the carbs came anyway. So what's the point of "detuning" (went too big to begin with) and having it go out of wack all the time?
As you mentioned, there are a number of GROM clones and a variety of places to buy them. Do you have any idea who is selling the most GROM clones (X-Pro Vader, Boom Vader, Venom Vader etc.) and they're buying them from various sources (Amazon, Venom Motorsports, X-Pro USA and I think I ran across some PowerSports website, too). Do you happen to know which bike and which source seems to be the most popular bike and dealer to buy from? I've seen RUclips videos where HUNDREDS of these minibikes are "roaring" through a town on a GROM Celebration Day and thought you might hang around with such a group and have an idea of what and where they are buying their bikes. I just saw on the right side of my monitor screen that there's a 150cc GROM clone called the RPS Condor. Great, now I've got another version to take into consideration.
XPro and Boom are the most units I have seen. Amazon, Powersportsmax, and Redfox are sources I've seen mentioned most. Personally I have yet to see many clones around my area but they are out there. When I did my MFS course, one of the girls mentioned she just got one for a first bike! As for the RPS Condor, it is a copy of a Lifan KP Mini. Both are great! 👍🏼 I hear they are very good bikes. Better than these smaller clones. I wouldn't hesitate buying of those. They're faster and have a 5 speed!
@drmachinewerke1 I would depend my life on them. Life probably a few thousand miles but tbh better to replace as soon as one can. They aren't too pricey to replace.
Every bike should have a Cush Drive. It's rubber that goes into the hub of the rear wheel. It helps absorb vibration from the drive (chain) to give a smoother feedback while riding. The stock ones are very cheap, thin rubber. They don't last long at all. Oem honda ones fit in perfectly. Keep in mind that all cush drives no whatever what brand, are "wear" parts. Bearing are self explanatory. They suck. They're rough, noisy, and not smooth. They can get you in trouble. I have personally seen a bearing explode on a car, and it is not fun. It locked that wheel. Now imagine a bike. Especially on a motorcycle. It will lock up your whee, and you'll probably be launched from the bike. Never know.
@lordslug3351 Original fuel line works for a good while. I still have mine. Just don't leave your bike in direct sunlight or a lot of stuff can go bad quickly, even replacement parts. You can replace w/ this fuel line and shut off valve. The shut off valve is not recommended but useful. I heard they can clog though. www.gopowersports.com/1-4-id-fuel-line/ www.gopowersports.com/1-4-in-line-shut-off-valve/ You can search for similiar items elsewhere.
Yes! Get rid of ALL the egr stuff including the charcoal canister and fuel ventilation as well! It will run much better. Get a better bigger carb on there for sure
So should I have the carb First. Because I took off the Big black holes that connects to the carb where I'm sure it's for the choke. And spilled some gas.
@chrism4784 The choke is utilized via cable and not a hose. I would personally forget everything about the original carberutor and upgrade that immediately.
Okay so I literally just now ordered the carb You put in a description along with everything else that went with that? I was. Dropping the engine. Because. The top bolt snap so I'm Changing them to the 3/8 So until the carb comes in I'm gonna have to put everything back on. It should get here Tuesday.
@chrism4784 Nice!! Make sure you got the intake as well. Also, I'm not sure if the stock throttle cable will fit new carberutor. it's why i put a new twist throttle on mine. Look at my shorts. Careful drilling the 3/8 holes on the motor mounts and engine. The best advice I can give is JUST DO IT!!! Use a titanium Drill Bit For strength. It'll all be worth it. Good luck removing the rear sets/swingarm and fitting it. Get an extra set of hands. You got this 👌🏼
Mine is still alive and working perfectly good over 4 months later. I keep a tender on it when not in use for a longer time. I also have one of these for simple connection gor my battery tender on both my motorcycles. www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/battery-charger-cables-and-accessories/p/schumacher-battery-quick-connector-18in/973761_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:BAC:19488533492&&CATARGETID=120054150001289249&CADevice=m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInuuO6ZepgQMVgAqtBh0-ZwmMEAQYASABEgLKCPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Kudos dude. This is one of the absolute best how to videos I have ever watched. The details on the parts you used makes it right up there at the top. You didn't get bogged down in the minutiae of everything you did but also didn't do the 30,000 feet gloss over either. PERFECT ! ! ! You made me order a vader. My wife hates you.
Thank you I'm glad you enjoyed and this vid was useful for you! And tell her that my wallet hates me as well haha!!
@bobscat-wj4ub actually flicking the throttle before hitting the starter, is a way to prime fuel into the intake. Try it yourself without an air filter and you'll see fuel literally spit out of the carb.
***When not using the choke (as you saw in the video), you can try the method I used for when the engine does turn on, you can keep her alive with some extra little throttle till she is warm enough to hold idle on her own, instead of the using the choke.***
This is how people used to have to turn carburetored cars way back in the day when they had trouble turning them on.
@bobscat-wj4ub I will add, there are sweet spots you have to find when doing this which is why you saw me twisting it. And I will also add that I used too much throttle to turn her on in this video which I literally acknowledged. But I don't hide nothing, this is how it is irl with anything sometimes 😄
@@bobscat-wj4ub ruclips.net/video/OHwfXJohRpM/видео.htmlsi=P5Pubm01X6bVi3aC
This might help a bit
@bobscat-wj4ub you seem to miss understand but, to each their own.
Without the choke, I can prime the carb and do this and turn it on fairly easily. Because there is no choke, I keep the rpms high enough till warmed up.
In this video, upon firing up I added a bit too much throttle. The idea is only to keep her alive with no keep by using a bit of throttle.
I know how engines work, which has nothing to do with me starting the bike. There are tricks to carbs out of the book you can learn as well.
Bro checked out a lot of your video was skimming past some other how to videos, but they sucked. I feel like yours are probably the best out of all the ones I skimmed through. Thanks again I ordered a Vader and I’m going to see about these parts and everything, keep at it!😎
Thanks for the kind words man I appreciate it!
Brother I must have watched over a hundred videos like this and this is by far the best and most detailed videos I’ve seen! This just made my life a whole lot easier to start working on my bike. Thank you for having all the parts clear and simple!🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Are you local??? I’m in south Florida. I see you have a shop in this video
Hey! I'm glad that this video helped you out! Thanks for watching
Unfortunately I'm in the opposite side of the country from you. I'm in CA, but I have built 2 other bikes for clients the same way.
Man this video you made , you came through like a thoroughbred with the info on drilling on the engine for better fitting bolts and the rest of the the upgrades, i myself am into the small bikes big time and I’m doing mods on mine also trying to get my cousin and a couple of friends into them also, we’re youngsters you know 45 to 50 years young😂😂😂😂 and have always been into 🏍 ‘s . Thanks for the video man, to everyone , Ride Hard n Ride Safe 👍🏼Cheers From East Los Angeles ✌🏼👨🏼🦲👌🏼🛵🏍💯
Back at yah man! Thanks for the kind words. These little inexpensive bikes humble you a bit. And no, you're not old, not even close. Trust me 🙂
Cheers!!
This was the perfect length and format of video to fit all of this in. I appreciate the boom mini moto content. :)
I wish this guide was more in depth or filmed as a series because there is so many useful tips but I don’t have the knowledge to do all of this.
Hello. Sorry that this video doesn't exactly work to your convenience. I tried to fit as much info as i could on this video without making it too long.
A lot of stuff I did not showcase are things that one can figure out once you're in there.
There will be a video for the bearings, shafts and cush drive and other little stuff soon. Hope you enjoyed!
@@anythinggarage hey what brand Vader is better venom or xpro
@damianmurillo6203 They are the same. Xpro and Venom are really just different companies that buy this bike from "Jiangsu Baodiao Locomotive Co., Ltd" which is the actual make. You'll soon realize when you do DMV work, no where will you see Xpro or Venom anywhere!
They slap their name on it and then assembe it.
They say Venom is assembled better, and so it costs more... My Xpro, however, was assembled great. There was literally nothing wrong when i took it apart.
This video really helped me alot thanks for the knowledge 😎💯
To each his own but as long as you know the part names you can look up how to replace. This video is freankin great
I got the xpro 2025 - you rock thank you,, please keep sharing your upgrades, your the man NICE WORK BRO
Love your video. Best one I've seen on how to replace needed parts for these kind of bike! You explained very well why you should do these mods. Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words! Very much appreciated 🙏🏼
Old guy here , back when synthetic oil came along, it was great for your motor but a wet cluth would slip under a good load. I believe they have a happy medium now. Better slick protection for moving parts and still allows clutch plates to grab. Tbe motor still needs to be broken in.
diesel oil is better
@thegreatkrimpus6139 I did not know that. Thank for the info
@@bigfootaintreal5454 Rotella T6 is the best one since it has all the ratings that are required for motorcycle engines
Hi and thank you making this step-by-step video. I am budgeting for one of these mini-moto bikes.
They're great and cheap fun!!!
Hey I went ahead and subbed because this video was fantastic I really like how you actually told us where to get the parts, if you could a how to video on some of the replacement stuff would be absolutely fantastic
Great video!!! Wish it was more in depth but for what its worth, I think you did a fantastic job! I wrote down notes that I need to improve my 🏍! So thank you!! I appreciate your help!!!
the way your buddy instantly corrected your pronunciation of pliers cracked one out for me 😂😂 big thumbs up 👍👍
This is the best video . Parts links explaining. Solid my guy.
Do you have a link for the mirrors ?
Great info! I've had mine for over a year now and it has been great! About to do a few more upgrades!
Best vid out but I would love to see you do another full in depth review of the kp mini
Very nice presentation. Professional ...good info for people buying cheaper version.
Thank you very much. Just trying to help out!!
This was a really cool video thanks man
Awesome informative video man thanks for the knowledge! I've been thinking about selling my crf250l and getting one of these to mess around on but now I'm thinking it may be better to just get a used Grom instead. It'd be about the same price and a lot more reliable without having to do all these upgrades.
You're right about that, and there's nothing wrong with that! Idk what year Grom I rode for a couple of days, but it didn't have a gear indicator, and it for sure had less torque than mine lol 😂 glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. This DIY moto stuff is exactly what will grow your channel. Keep it up!
Thank you very much for the kind words!
I paid a couple hundred more and bought the RPS Condor 150. It already has bigger frame bolts. Still needs a few upgrades, but it's the heavier duty between the two.
I have a new KP Mini RS EFI and love it! Definately a big upgrade in quality and power even stock!
I appreciate how thorough you were with the process, good looking out bro 🙏🏽
Awesome video at 10:40 what did you end up doing with that hose that throws oil at higher rpm? Did you put a catch can system or did you just plug it off?
Leave the hose connected. Do not plug it up. It is to keep the engine case vented. Route it somewhere out back maybe not directly in front of the back tire. It won't be spewing a bunch of oil but can in some cases
Thanks was going to get my daughter a used grom but everything you did put this at the same price and I feel would be better than a stock grom anyways.
If you are interested. Take a look at my Kp Mini EFi videos. It's a much much better bike for a great price!
Great video. My exhaust needs way more modding to install than yours. I wish I would have seen this video sooner. Either way great info and good luck with it.
Half way through the video I discovered the original exhaust I bought wouldn't work so I returned it and got a recommended one 😅
What fuel did you use to heat? @@anythinggarage
@@kennyhelms277 just any normal handheld Propane torch
So why did you get a 26mm intake and a 22mm carb ?
It's easier knowing it would work. The flow from a 22 to a 26 on these engines on a sub 200lb bike is so small. it's literally not worth mentioning at all. It works perfectly.
On top of that, I have bigger motors that do use 26mm, so I had a couple lying around.
If you got for a bigger carb because you bore it or get a bigger motor... even better.
@@anythinggarage make sense ! Thanks !
Yeah dude this is really in-depth you been doing above and beyond the call of duty man love to watch this video very knowable. My thing is at this amount of work might as well just get the original Honda groom oem and used market one time
How is all the parts holding up ? Just got one of these and im glad you linked all the parts as im changing that clutch lever asap its booty lol.
Pretty cool. Thanks for the list
@anythinggarage I got the same carburetor, did the swap with the flange and emissions delete. But I can’t see to get the bike to start up, it’s a constant crank and no start
im getting one to starting learning how to ride thanks for this video
but i dont really wanna spend that much all at once so what are the main things that i should get edit : easy things i dont wanna take the whole thing apart
The easiest and best things to get are the 24mm nibbi carb kit, throttle kit, and the manifold. Look at the description. Also, get the exhaust. There should be 2 links for that.
The free:
You will have to get rid of all of the emissions stuff, cut down and close the egr tube, get rid of the charcoal canister, and take off the valve on the fuel breather.
This should give you the best bang for buck. There is no need to remove the motor. Your motor mounts should survive for a short time, but just be aware that eventually, your frame will break.
Where can I find the motor bolts and nuts for purchase?
Pretty amazing vid
@@MJRamirezVideo appreciate it man thank you
Great video!! Good tips 🫡
Fire video
Dude, awesome vid!
Hey can you give me a list of the parts you used the part numbers and what shifter you used and the exhaust?
What ahead and bought the chain off of the link in the description and it’s 134 length, what’s the best way to shorten the chain and remove links?
You can buy a chain breaker on ebay relatively cheap or use a socket, punch, and hammer to hammer a pin off. It gets frustrating but works.
There's videos on how to do this. Kids can do it.
@@anythinggarage ended up using an angle grinder and a punch! Wasnt the prettiest process but worked haha
Great job, love it. 👋
Had to drop a comment. Amazing video
I’ll be picking up a grom clone that hits top speed 65mph
I want to make the experience more comforting and faster if possible
It comes with two seats
Now I know what to work on
I hate to ask before finishing the video
In total how much did you spend to modify?
Thanks man! The rear shock is uneeded unless you really want it. Without it, it would be about $1900 EVERYTHING
@@anythinggarage Jesus Christ! Thank you bro
What did you swap out just to make it vibrate less and drive better
How to change the fork oil/ what kind of oil is best?
I will make a video soon on an update of the bike!
what are the side mirrors ! plz
@8percent67 even if i told you, you couldn't get them they were a generic name product only 1 in stock from seller and I couldn't find them again!
@ 💔💔💔
I personally have a 22' Grom SP. Have about 2000 miles on it. And since Ive got it, Ive changed the oil, that's it. I haven't had to rebuild the bike from new to make it reliable. I do believe in you get what you pay for. And its fuel injected, not carby. But if you cant afford a brand name, reliable, known machine. Ka-boom Vader is an ok second best.
I agree with you on this at a certain point. I can't justify spending 5k on this type of motorcycle for what I will use it for and what it can do. Just in my specific case. For $1500 ide say it's worth it with only a few things to get it good to go
Quit it with the brand name reliable n well known😂😂😂 Homeboy in the video installed and did what 99% of grom heads do , which is install aftermarket parts but in the end , his vader will be just as reliable or better and for sure it’s faster !😅😂 And in the end , homeboy has a faster and just as reliable bike for half the price Mr SO CAL, CORN DOG!!!✌🏼🤣🤣🤣🤣!! To all riders , cheers from East Los Angeles , Ride Hard n Ride Safe!!✌🏼👨🏼🦲👌🏼🛵🏍💯
@rosieorozco4517 not half the price but 1/4 the price
Do the Grom spare parts work for it? Parts such as brake pads?
All of this is great but what about the link for the 3/8 mounting bolts cant find them anywhere
You would have to pick those up at a bolts & nuts/hardware store. Make sure they're grade 8. Try Tractor Supply
Awesome bro thanks 🤘🤘
Good shit man. All in, what did you drop on this build? JW 🤷🏼♂
Thanks glad you enjoyed!
Parts like $550 or so... excluding the rear shock.
So probably $1850 for the bike and taxes and shipping and parts and everything.
@@anythinggarage Thank you my man 🙏🏼
No hate because I'm looking at an Icebear furza (to keep stock) but with all these upgrades... wouldn't it make more sense to get an actual Grom?
I mean all those upgrades to actual Grom parts seems like it would get you close to the Grom price minus the manual labor...
Quating what i said to someone else. And btw, you can actually get one of these $200 cheaper at RedFox.
"No, not even close. The bike total price cost me $1500. All of these parts except the expensive rear shock I decided to use only cost about $400. Bringing the bike to a total cost of $1900. That includes the $275 I paid for shipping and taxes (bike itself is $1100 before taxes and shipping).
A Honda Grom Stock is $3800-$4100 (abs or no abs) new after taxes IF THEY SELL AT MSRP without a single penny of Dealer Markup!
This is not even including any other fees like Destination Charge Fee and Freight Surcharge fee + (Dealer Fee, DMV (Documentation) Fee, Processing Fee, Service/Set-up fees AND MORE if you finance it."
So in the end you're probably looking at around $5000. For a Grom.
Up to you!!
@@anythinggarage 🤔
You're absolutely correct.
I'm just too lazy to do anything beyond bolt ons and electronics...😅
I have a df250rts (x22r) I've done just about all basic bolt ons (except exhaust the one it came with is actually perfect)
But I want a little more pick up and top end...
Getting a rear sprocket for this bike is probably as involved as installing it.
As far as carbs...sure I can bolt it on... tuning it on the other hand...🛫😶
Did you reinstall the fuel pump or are you running off gravity?
I like this video ❤❤from Cambodia
What type of oil catch can did you end up using or where’d you route it?
@@justyjust1 I never got to do an oil catch can I no longer have the bike
@ do you suggest anything?
@nicksluder please tell me where you can buy a used grom for $2k??? Or are talking about a really beat up 4sp??
Curious, how much with mods you actually ended up spending on the bike? Trying to talk the spouse into letting me get a mini bike!
If you don't get the unnecessary rear shock (only got it for the red spring and reservoir look tbh), all parts cost me $550. So add that to total price.
Cheapest Grom clone that I know of is the Boss Motor 125 for 999.99 +$300 shipping. Comes with red calipers, VERY HARD front gold shocks, and maybe a better seat. Overall. The X-Pro is a smidge above in quality control and final build IMO.
Your total is gonna be around $1950 shipped with taxes and all parts used here.
Thank you so much!!!@@anythinggarage
In need of a whole shifter linkage as I snapped mine today. Please point me in the right direction. I have the exact same bike in blue
I'm always afraid to take a bolt or a wire out because I wouldn't know how to put it back. Imagine doing all those cables and nuts replacements.
@rramales1 I been doing things like this for a few years so I'm used to it. Just a skill you gain in time. It is not too hard to install. Wish I would have made a how-to video though
? NO PART TWO?
We need a part 2!
Did you use the stock clutch cable with the new levers? I find that the stock cable has no slack at all.
I did use the stock clutch cable. You are right.
I will admit the stock lever feels a bit better than the aftermarket. But I got used to the aftermarket one. I have not tried a new cable as of yet.
@@anythinggarage Would the oem grom cable fit with more slack for adjustments?
lol what is that factory shifter? its like 4 adapters to do what could have been done with just a short shift lever lol
I know, so annoying!! 😑
Unfortunately the fender eliminator kit provided in the description will not fit the bike
You will at least need to change out the stock brake light that comes with the boom for it to fit, I’m not sure if the exhaust mount will get in the way or not, I think it’s just the stock brake light
Keep the kit. I will have an update video soon. There are 2 very simple modifications you have to do to make it work.
1) Cut the middle peice off one of the plates from the kit.
1b) Install tailight at an angle (just like stock but angled to fit with eliminator kit). Use nylon lock nuts so they won't vibrate off like regular nuts.
2) Cut the middle part off of rear seat fairing to fit the tailight.
Easier done than said.
Works with stock tailight. I'm using the kit in this video.
@@anythinggarage gotcha! Excited for the update video, thanks for putting these together ❤
Do u work on bikes other than urs and if so where r u located
Yes I've worked on others before. I'm in CA unfortunately
You used 3/8 bolts. The holes in the case were probably drilled to metric and when you drilled to 3/8 you didn't take out a lot of metal so couldn't you have just used a grade 8 metric bolt that would fit the metric hole in the case???
Yes! This is a thing that has been talked about before. I forget what metric size bolt they use as an alternative for 3/8, but in general the 3/8 is thicker and much more sturdy than the metric counter part as there is still slight wiggle with the metric bolt. Drilling everything out with 3/8 also makes an exact fit for better overall reliability!
It would probably be M9 but not sure. Just looking to save having to pull the motor. I think if I was going with 3/8, I would try to just drill one mount at a time with the engine mounted. But thanks for the response.
Plus, I was thinking it would be better to leave as much metal on the case as possible since it is aluminum and much weaker. Again, a REALLY great video.
Hey I bought the same carb and throttle cable but I’m having a hard time getting the idle down and for some reason it sounds cammed and when I try to rev it it bogs out
You may need to watch how-to videos for Carberutors and learn to tune a carb.
Temperature, humidity, altitude (elevation) all have something to do with tuning a Carberutor. You can't have the same jets or tune as somebody else.
Luckily live near sea level. The jets that came installed in my carb (should be the same ones in yours) and the way it came tuned works perfect for me.
What if you put off road tires on it🤔
They've done it!! It's honestly a kid dirt bike frame from the old 80's 50cc Hondas kinda like the z50 bikes
Wussup man ? Quick question I’m having motor mount problems as well what the size etc of the bolt ?
Info under description!
What’s that mental thing connected to the shifter ?
@@jajajaja4590 on the old shifter? (It's a linkage made of plastic).
On the new shifter. It's just a foot lever connecter directly to the shift shaft on the motor
Which jets are you using actually in 26mm?
Stock jets that came with the 22mm nibbi can't remember the jet numbers. It's a 22mm
Whats the overall cost of buying the bike and doing all the mods? Also how long did it take to install all these parts? I'm really curious if this is worthwhile considering you can get a used honda grom for around $2500-$2800.
Brand new, including taxes, shipping and tags, and every mod and parts used here (except unnecessary rear shock, which I got for looks), it comes out to $1900.
It did not take me very long at all, but that's because I do small projects and I'm comfortable with mechanics and some fab work.I'm
@@anythinggarage well definitely way under half the price of a honda grom
Hey man have you had any trouble with insurance. Im having trouble with my vin not being recognized or something like that they dont have my bike in system
Its a Boss vador 125cc from DongFang
I did at First, but I just sent them a picture of my registration and they were able to get it. I use StateFarm pay $7 a month.
My model on the bike is a DF125RTR from what it says on the paper work that i got from red fox but the dmv registration says( RS ) under model
Did that throttle kit with cable need any adjustments with the carb? Ive had a 26mm nibbi i used with the stock throttle cable and had so much play in the throttle which was annoying. Returned the 26mm though because it was to big and had issues. Was tryna see if that throttle kit and cable worked perfect or not
Yes worked perfect! Check description!
@@anythinggarage hows the 22mm holding up though? I heard the 22mm is to small and 26mm is to big so people say go with the 24mm. If you havent touched the idle or fuel screw since you dialed it in the video and etc ill most likely get the same one you have with the throttle cable setup
@@anythinggarage im also trying to find that 3 bolt intake manifold you installed but cant find it. Or did that not work that good so you got another one?
@GregBartlett22 it did work. But I ordered a separate one to see if I can install facing to the side, but it ended up being the same angle.
@@anythinggarage still using it or changed the carb?
how much did it cost? does it worth for not buying grom?
Would all these upgrades also work on the X-PRO Condor 150 Street Motorcycle
The Condor uses a completely different engine! Definitely not the same bike, although they do share SOME grom parts. I would not use this video for ideas.
Any help if your link to the ball barrings where sold out? N ah bunch of other questions I have being new to the bike life if it's possible to getchu on the phone fah a quick sec, but please lmk
I have part numbers for the axles and bearings for you to search at your convenience!
I don't mind questions here. I can answer to the best of my ability, and it may help others as well.
My engine bolt broke off inside the mounting hole now gotta get it out some way.
Mounting hole? As in on the engine where the bolt goes through?
Try using a punch/rod and hammer or something of the likes. Try not to cause damage inside. Goodluck!
@@anythinggarage thks. Yes cheap bolt. It snapped mid way in mounting hole on the engine.
I have the Tao Tao hellcat 125 and It’s kinda trashy rn, my plan it to put it up on a stand and use this summers free time to get it clean and pristine
so for someone on a budget what are the real essential parts to change so that its reliable to ride(short distances since i want one for commuting to school) and last a bit longer
I would definitely do the engine mount bolts, carb, chain, sprocket.
That will change the machine for the best
How much would you say all the parts cost you?
$550 with absolutely everything even the bolts and washers and all. This excludes the unnecessary rear shock I am using.
Thank you, great video!
Did you have any problems with Nibbi carb jets?
Personally no I have not, to this day
How much was the total with bike price and upgrades? My brother had a Vader and I had a ssr razkull and that Vader was worst thing I’ve ever driven😂
$1900 with everything. Otherwise stock you're looking at about $1400 after everthing including tags, taxes, shipping and all that.
I've used real gross before and they are literally identical in everything. Def not recommended for long distance haha
Did you reuse the manifold to motor gasket?
Intake manifold? If new can be reused!
Exhaust manifold Crush gasket? New or used, both worked for me.
So she going to cost me total at the end adding all those part is it going to be more expensive than her regular Honda groom
No where near close
quick question, the 22mm carb will fit the 26mm manifold or??
Yes! As long as you use manifolds with the same bolt pattern. The 26mm intake manifold and 22mm Carb sizes are only the inside circle diameter of these flanges.
After all the upgrades, what is the price difference between the grom and this?
It looks like about 700 bucks in updates, not too bad.
@jeffbanfieldsflwr3537 this to my door woth tags taxes mods and everything was about 1900. New grom you're looking at around 5k at the end of the day
@anythinggarage yea, originally I thought it would be pretty expensive. It's much cheaper than Honda.
Should I get a 49cc one never rode one before and upgrade it
That would be a bit of a waste. 125cc is already small but can still be dangerous if you have absolutely no idea what your doing. Study riding. And even take a class for it.
You'll be in and out of a 50cc in a weeks time though.
Do you still come in under a Grom price with your upgrades?
Yea by Like $3000 difference
Did you have to swap jets or tune the carburetor? I just installed the same carburetor as you and it bogs every time I snap the throttle. I also have the same throttle and cable as you. I’ve tried tuning it for hours. I’ve even swapped the pilot jet out and no luck still. I’m lost
My carb is still perfect to this day. It may be because the jets and adjustments are generically set by the manufacturer for a specific altitude and ambient setting. I live in CA at 350ft above sea level (which is GREAT!), and it's always warm here. Could just be my case.
Go to Nibbi and check they're tuning chart it may help you!
@@anythinggarage I just noticed that I installed the new carb with the fuel filter that came with it. Did I need to use it? Since there’s already the factory one right before the fuel cutoff switch.
@hdubby2219 technically it would limit flow and have a hard time getting all the fuel it needs into the carb. I've even heard of inline shut off valves doing this. I recommended one of those in vid but not so much anymore. GL!
Any updates on the grom clone?
No sorry man, I sold it a while ago 😢
So how much was the entire upgrade?
BTW, good video.
@@JeffBassir-lo6zj if you exclude the rear shock, you're looking at about $550 in parts and miscellaneous parts total for everything I used.
Thanks. And how much was the rear shock?
What torque specs did you use for the swing arm bolt?
Just a few uga dugas!
Hey bro you used a 26mm I take manifold with a 22mm carb ?
Yes it work perfectly fine. It has the correct flange diameter, it's actually harder and more of a headache finding 22mm or 24mm intakes than it is the standard 26mm sizes for these engines
@@anythinggarage bro I been struggling to find one sucks !!!! I was about to buy a cheap 22 mm carb with it but I rather run the 26mm now
@@anythinggarage thank you bro
@fernandogutierrez7985 Buy a 22mm nibbi carb and use it with a 26mm intake. Or a 24mm carb with the 26mm intake if you prefer as well.
Personally, 26mm carbs are much harder to tune and go out of wack a lot more than the smaller ones. Mostly because 26mm is just too big for a 125cc engine.
In fact, when you use 26mm carb, you gotta "detune" them with smaller jets and run them leaner than how the carbs came anyway. So what's the point of "detuning" (went too big to begin with) and having it go out of wack all the time?
How can I get my bike to you I just ordered one I need this work done
@@darnellduncan6015 if you're in California you can drop it off and I can do work on it
As you mentioned, there are a number of GROM clones and a variety of places to buy them. Do you have any idea who is selling the most GROM clones (X-Pro Vader, Boom Vader, Venom Vader etc.) and they're buying them from various sources (Amazon, Venom Motorsports, X-Pro USA and I think I ran across some PowerSports website, too). Do you happen to know which bike and which source seems to be the most popular bike and dealer to buy from? I've seen RUclips videos where HUNDREDS of these minibikes are "roaring" through a town on a GROM Celebration Day and thought you might hang around with such a group and have an idea of what and where they are buying their bikes. I just saw on the right side of my monitor screen that there's a 150cc GROM clone called the RPS Condor. Great, now I've got another version to take into consideration.
XPro and Boom are the most units I have seen. Amazon, Powersportsmax, and Redfox are sources I've seen mentioned most. Personally I have yet to see many clones around my area but they are out there. When I did my MFS course, one of the girls mentioned she just got one for a first bike!
As for the RPS Condor, it is a copy of a Lifan KP Mini. Both are great! 👍🏼 I hear they are very good bikes. Better than these smaller clones. I wouldn't hesitate buying of those. They're faster and have a 5 speed!
What’s the mileage like on these? How far can you get on one tank?
Should be around 55mpg at WOT (wide open throttle) top speed, high revs, all its got balls out.
Still good if you ask me lol.
What life span on the tires can one expect
@drmachinewerke1 I would depend my life on them. Life probably a few thousand miles but tbh better to replace as soon as one can. They aren't too pricey to replace.
What are the bearings and crush drive for just asking i wanna get one to learn wheelies on
Also know any good cages to protect the engine and would a sub cage fit a Vader
Every bike should have a Cush Drive. It's rubber that goes into the hub of the rear wheel. It helps absorb vibration from the drive (chain) to give a smoother feedback while riding.
The stock ones are very cheap, thin rubber. They don't last long at all. Oem honda ones fit in perfectly. Keep in mind that all cush drives no whatever what brand, are "wear" parts.
Bearing are self explanatory. They suck. They're rough, noisy, and not smooth. They can get you in trouble. I have personally seen a bearing explode on a car, and it is not fun. It locked that wheel.
Now imagine a bike. Especially on a motorcycle. It will lock up your whee, and you'll probably be launched from the bike. Never know.
You got a link to the inline fuel valve and the fuel line
@lordslug3351 Original fuel line works for a good while. I still have mine. Just don't leave your bike in direct sunlight or a lot of stuff can go bad quickly, even replacement parts. You can replace w/ this fuel line and shut off valve. The shut off valve is not recommended but useful. I heard they can clog though.
www.gopowersports.com/1-4-id-fuel-line/
www.gopowersports.com/1-4-in-line-shut-off-valve/
You can search for similiar items elsewhere.
Thanks and what’s the difference between 26 nibbi carb and the 22 carb
Could I take egr airbox off before I was to do any of the mods you did?
Yes! Get rid of ALL the egr stuff including the charcoal canister and fuel ventilation as well! It will run much better. Get a better bigger carb on there for sure
So should I have the carb
First. Because I took off the Big black holes that connects to the carb where I'm sure it's for the choke. And spilled some gas.
@chrism4784 The choke is utilized via cable and not a hose. I would personally forget everything about the original carberutor and upgrade that immediately.
Okay so I literally just now ordered the carb You put in a description along with everything else that went with that?
I was.
Dropping the engine.
Because.
The top bolt snap so I'm Changing them to the 3/8 So until the carb comes in I'm gonna have to put everything back on. It should get here Tuesday.
@chrism4784 Nice!! Make sure you got the intake as well. Also, I'm not sure if the stock throttle cable will fit new carberutor. it's why i put a new twist throttle on mine. Look at my shorts.
Careful drilling the 3/8 holes on the motor mounts and engine. The best advice I can give is JUST DO IT!!!
Use a titanium Drill Bit For strength. It'll all be worth it.
Good luck removing the rear sets/swingarm and fitting it. Get an extra set of hands. You got this 👌🏼
I got the same nibbi and stock cable still but different levers tho
How much have you spent on upgrades?😊
Maybe about $550 excluding the rear shock I only did for looks
What kind of mirrors are those? Link?
Randomly found online. No info on them and only one set from seller. Never seen them available again 😔🤷🏻♂️
Is the china battery good or a should changed for a new one just like the oil shipping ?
Mine is still alive and working perfectly good over 4 months later. I keep a tender on it when not in use for a longer time. I also have one of these for simple connection gor my battery tender on both my motorcycles.
www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/battery-charger-cables-and-accessories/p/schumacher-battery-quick-connector-18in/973761_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:BAC:19488533492&&CATARGETID=120054150001289249&CADevice=m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInuuO6ZepgQMVgAqtBh0-ZwmMEAQYASABEgLKCPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds