I like tinkering with my Boom Vader, so adding parts as I go, including a planned Big Bore Kit. However, sometime in the distant future I might consider a larger engine. Thx for video hoping to see some speed runs after break-in. :D
Yeah a bigger engine is the way to go for sure. The 125 just doesn’t have enough to push it. I can ride it at 55 and only be at 5-6k now whereas with the 125 it would be at redline going 53. If you’re considering a big bore then I would suggest just going to the bigger engine. Having the extra gear alone makes it worth it. Right now I’m trying to find a way to mount the oil cooler as well as sort out the exhaust. My setup in the video isn’t working out too well.
If there is anything I learned from these bikes it's that 90% of Grom MSX and MSX SF body and frame parts will work with minimal modification. Swapping out the rear set and swingarm and redoing the top engine mount welds (or just make beefier steel mounting plates) will solve a lot of the structural issues. I also mega recommend pro taper bars and better mounting solution as the rubber bushings mixing with the salt water humidity from shipping makes them crumble like a biscuit. If you need stopping power on a budget get braided lines for you brakes, otherwise Grom Brembos are king.
For sure man I just hit The subscribe button as I just got a Vader 125 from one of my customers Snd being an avid performance modified turbo Snowmobiler I have to throw a big block in this grom copy!!! They seem like not bad copy’s for 12-1300$ so what the hey!! I looked into a bigger motor swap and came across your video. Thank you for taking the time to post your Video. I’d Like to start off with where to order the 190 cc motor that seems to be so plentiful. thank you in advance for your Help I haven’t watched much about the 140? Cc stroker kit installed but I’m sure the 190 kit will have plenty More power Than the stroker Kit if I’m not wrong. Thanks Again and looking forward to seeing the 190 swap video running on road !!!
I was blown away by the quality of the bike for the money. I’m not going to take it across the country or anything but for getting out for a few hours it’s great and hasn’t left me stranded. I scored mine from Amazon amzn.to/3ZPIssy but they are frequently sold out. steadygarage.com often has both the 190 and the 212 cc for a bit more money. I’ve heard good things about ridernomics.com but haven’t used them. The higher displacement and 5-speed makes it the most bang for the buck. I looked at the 140cc and 150cc motors. You can sometimes fine Lifan 150’s with a 5 speed. I decided to spring the extra few hundred for the 190. I have a new video coming soon. I’ve managed to make an exhaust work and got the carb turned around to make room for the oil cooler. I have yet to install the cooler but it’s still winter where I am and my temps stay low. There was one guy who was putting a CG250 into his clone. He had it running at one point but I think it had problems and in his last video he said he was quitting his project for a while. @Thomas Healey has a channel where he shows off his 212 swapped bike. I like his stuff but he hasn’t uploaded in a while. Keep an eye out. He or I will have some more videos up as the weather gets warmer. I’m excited for you with that 125 though. If you don’t need to go faster than 50mph then the 125 and a 17t sprocket are still fun to putter around with.
@@NICKELGHANDI Yes it does but theres plenty of videos out there on the internet and not all of them cover the wiring. Would've been nice to see the video youre talking about.
Not much at all. You can mess with the alignment of the clutch arm by loosening it and placing it differently on the shaft and then adjust the clutch cable accordingly. That made a big difference. Also you get used to it after a while and things get a bit more lubed up and it just moves easier. If it’s still really stiff then there may be a problem or you may want to look into a hydraulic clutch conversion kit like this: amzn.to/3OuWZXY That is an expensive option though.
The clutch gets nice after some miles I thought the same thing but after I drove it for awhile she shifts like a dream idk why but I think it’s just grabby af at first
It is not a bad idea and this motor has the connections for one but I don’t use one. If I had to ride in stop and go traffic I would probably use one. I’ve never had any issues in over 1000 miles.
That could be true although changing it the way I did should actually give me more leverage (in theory). I might try putting it back to see how it feels.
@@NICKELGHANDI I replied to your post about exhaust on ChinaRiders...but for the carburetor... I had to cut off the original voltage regulator bracket, relocate the regulator, and then I was able to use the included PE28 carb and intake facing backwards. It cleared the frame (just), and using a Nibbi mesh filter with 45 degree angle, it'll tuck tightly but neatly under the left side plastics. Snug... but it fits.
I saw that and I think I’ve seen your video and that setup is clean. I think what you did is probably the right thing to do, but I really don’t want to cut any part of the bike. I may try a different intake manifold or something but my temps haven’t been above 230 at the hottest near the exhaust even without the cooler so I might just leave it. I really don’t wind it out or spend much time idling.
It can be done, but it is much more involved. The bolt pattern is different and if you want to keep the EFI that the Grom has then it is even more complex.
They say 500 miles but there are mixed opinions on that. I rode it harder than normal but changed the oil frequently and eventually the filter too in the ZS-190. The stock BD-125 motor doesn’t have a filter.
I put the 17t sprocket on it and trimmed the chain cover to fit it. That made my top speed about 52mph although the bike really struggled and I’m only 145lbs.
The four valve 212 will get you substantially more power than the two valve 190. You’ll want a bigger front sprocket to keep rpm lower at higher speeds but if you have steep hills you may want to keep the smaller sprocket if you are a bigger guy.
@@NICKELGHANDI thats what i had suspected. i plan on changing the sprockets anyways for wheelies. This is my first time doing anything real mechanical like this so i dont know what im doing. Can i ask you what else i would need to swap on the bike to make it work? I know ill need to swap the carb out. Would the nibbi carb you linked in the description here also work with the 212cc? Also if you know of any parts that will need swapped any info is greatly appreciated.
You want a smaller sprocket for wheelies to get torque. I can wheelie mine on a 17t sprocket I’m second gear but I’m just under 150lbs. To make it work with a 190 or 212 you’ll need to do a bit of rewiring. The exhaust needs changed as well. I recommend bullock performance for a zs-190 or 212 exhaust header and the muffler of your choosing. Most of the ZS motors come with a carb that is actually decent. You could use the linked nibbi carb but a 28mm or 30mm would be better. Nibbi makes those too. When you get the motor you’ll want to tear it down as far as you are comfortable with and make sure that everything is torqued to spec and lubed properly. There are videos on here about that.
I cannot link straight to it because the page has a drop-down to select the option. You can go here: shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59 Then select the C1 model from the drop-down list. If you have any questions email their support. They respond quickly and are very knowledgeable.
Yes, however I wouldn’t advise it. The wheels are too small to maintain good control at high speeds. You can handle it in a straight line but if you had to maneuver at all things would get wobbly.
Oh I see I have an xpro 125cc stock I’ve been thinking about upgrading it and using your video as a guide to that & use it to go to work lol it’s mainly streets but I’d have to get on the freeway for about 10mins i just don’t want to get pulled over … thanks for the info though!
I do still have the stock engine. They’re really cheap on Amazon though. By the time you pay for me to ship it to you, you could probably buy a new one. Here is one: amzn.to/4fzdI8d
@@NICKELGHANDI yea iv looked at a bunch of them on Amazon and eBay and you are exactly right especially if I got one that is kick start but I want the exact one like iv got now and iv found those but Amazon is currently unavailable and it's over 400 bucks with shipping... what would you want for yours with shipping and all
The wiring is plug and play. It clocks perfect with GPS until you get to about 50 and then drifts a tiny bit to the low side (as in you’re going faster than it reads). I don’t think I set it perfectly and will probably do the setting procedure again if I need to take the front assembly off for something else. It is probably less than 5 percent off at this point which equates to 2 mph off at 50mph. I can live with it lol.
@@NICKELGHANDI did you just bend it to make it come out the engine at more of a right angle so it clears the starter? i have the common amazon one for my 125 i might try to bend it but i worry its more restrictive to flow than the 200$ one everyone buys from kepspeed. really dont wanna buy another exhaust thought when this one has only 4oo miles on it
Sort of. It was more of a twisting bend. It doesn’t seem to restrict air flow but I did end up cracking the pipe and having to weld and anneal it. I’ll try to get a video up on how I did it and what I did wrong. Honestly buying the kepspeed one is probably the way to go.
You need a catch can for the oil tube to go in to so you don't end up with oil all over your tire and weld washer to the frame bolt holes the reinforce the hole for the bolts.👍👍✌️👌💯🏍️🍻
I would just use it to lubricate the chain. There's really not a lot coming out the hose. Mostly some smoke/clouds, and when the bike is at temperature, the hose vents water vapor that got inside.
@ProDigit80 yup as long as your not wheeling or punching it and then let off all the way. Both tend to make it shoot out about a cup of oil out of the tube with out a catch it's a big mess on your tire and clothes. ✌️😉
Can you tell me what the 6 plug male connector near at the headlight connects to? If I jump the red and black from it I can turn the bike on. Do you know what it connects to?
Honestly im trying to upgrade the bike to work better but spending 1k on the bike when its worth 2k your alrrady putting more money in the bike then its actual retail price and thats dumb like whats the point on the bike might as well build your own bike
The idea is to get a better and faster bike than a Honda Grom for less money and learn some motorcycle mechanical skills along the way. If you have the frame welding skills then building your own bike is definitely the cheapest way to go. I can’t weld any better than the people who welded the frame of this bike together so I bought it instead. It’s not a cost to resale value. It’s a cost to fun value lol.
@@NICKELGHANDI man I want mine to run better but I just don't want to spend more money then what I bought it for but I heard down the line that it runs terrible with the stocked parts that they need to be upgrade out the factory but groms are just built Japanese ready because my friend has one and he treats it like crap and his runs better then mine he literally launches it off ramps and stuff
@brianperez379 The Grom is a better bike for reliability hands down. That said I beat on mine pretty hard and it does fine. There are parts that wear out that will need replaced but they’re all cheap and you can use Grom parts for better reliability long term. Or sell it and get a Grom. For me, I wanted power to go 55-60 without blowing up the motor and a cheap bike I can wheelie and do dirt trails without worrying about ruining an expensive bike. The Grom isn’t necessarily expensive but for a 125cc toy I don’t think it’s worth almost $4k and for what I do with this cheaper bike I wouldn’t be able to enjoy myself on a Grom. My buddy has a Grom and it runs better and rides smoother but I win every race and can go more places and on more roads. I also have to turn a wrench on mine more often but for me it’s worth it. It’s all about what you want and what you’re willing and able to do. The 125cc these come with is trash but the 190cc or the real Daytona 4 valve in 190 or 212 makes it a different bike both in reliability and power. If you have the cash then it’s worth the upgrade. I’m planning to do a video soon detailing everything I had to do to make mine reliable and fast and the cost to do so.
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Hey guys, affiliate links to all parts used are in the description. Using them helps the channel! Thanks for watching.
I like tinkering with my Boom Vader, so adding parts as I go, including a planned Big Bore Kit. However, sometime in the distant future I might consider a larger engine. Thx for video hoping to see some speed runs after break-in. :D
Yeah a bigger engine is the way to go for sure. The 125 just doesn’t have enough to push it. I can ride it at 55 and only be at 5-6k now whereas with the 125 it would be at redline going 53. If you’re considering a big bore then I would suggest just going to the bigger engine. Having the extra gear alone makes it worth it.
Right now I’m trying to find a way to mount the oil cooler as well as sort out the exhaust. My setup in the video isn’t working out too well.
If there is anything I learned from these bikes it's that 90% of Grom MSX and MSX SF body and frame parts will work with minimal modification. Swapping out the rear set and swingarm and redoing the top engine mount welds (or just make beefier steel mounting plates) will solve a lot of the structural issues. I also mega recommend pro taper bars and better mounting solution as the rubber bushings mixing with the salt water humidity from shipping makes them crumble like a biscuit. If you need stopping power on a budget get braided lines for you brakes, otherwise Grom Brembos are king.
They make a spacer that goes between the manifold and head to raise it up.
For sure man I just hit
The subscribe button as I just got a Vader 125 from one of my customers Snd being an avid performance modified turbo Snowmobiler I have to throw a big block in this grom copy!!! They seem like not bad copy’s for 12-1300$ so what the hey!! I looked into a bigger motor swap and came across your video. Thank you for taking the time to post your
Video. I’d
Like to start off with where to order the 190 cc motor that seems to be so plentiful. thank you in advance for your
Help I haven’t watched much about the 140? Cc stroker kit installed but I’m sure the 190 kit will have plenty
More power
Than the stroker
Kit if I’m not wrong. Thanks Again and looking forward to seeing the 190 swap video running on road !!!
I was blown away by the quality of the bike for the money. I’m not going to take it across the country or anything but for getting out for a few hours it’s great and hasn’t left me stranded.
I scored mine from Amazon amzn.to/3ZPIssy but they are frequently sold out. steadygarage.com often has both the 190 and the 212 cc for a bit more money. I’ve heard good things about ridernomics.com but haven’t used them.
The higher displacement and 5-speed makes it the most bang for the buck.
I looked at the 140cc and 150cc motors. You can sometimes fine Lifan 150’s with a 5 speed. I decided to spring the extra few hundred for the 190.
I have a new video coming soon. I’ve managed to make an exhaust work and got the carb turned around to make room for the oil cooler. I have yet to install the cooler but it’s still winter where I am and my temps stay low.
There was one guy who was putting a CG250 into his clone. He had it running at one point but I think it had problems and in his last video he said he was quitting his project for a while.
@Thomas Healey has a channel where he shows off his 212 swapped bike. I like his stuff but he hasn’t uploaded in a while.
Keep an eye out. He or I will have some more videos up as the weather gets warmer. I’m excited for you with that 125 though. If you don’t need to go faster than 50mph then the 125 and a 17t sprocket are still fun to putter around with.
Very cool great job I was wanting to do the same
Bullock proformance makes a good bolt on exhaust just for these swap its a good price too
Funny you say that. I just ordered one this week! Lol. I just got the header and mid-pipe so hopefully it will match up to my can.
@@NICKELGHANDI you're gonna feel the different watch haha
should've linked the green wire mod video youre talking about for the main harness
Search exists.
@@NICKELGHANDI Yes it does but theres plenty of videos out there on the internet and not all of them cover the wiring. Would've been nice to see the video youre talking about.
It’s the first result if you search ZS-190 working for Grom clone. ruclips.net/video/a8P77szAnWI/видео.htmlsi=i9t_VbUTD7eD5ebs
@@NICKELGHANDI Thanks
What did you do to make the clutch less stiff? I just got this engine and man the clutch takes some hand power!
Not much at all. You can mess with the alignment of the clutch arm by loosening it and placing it differently on the shaft and then adjust the clutch cable accordingly. That made a big difference. Also you get used to it after a while and things get a bit more lubed up and it just moves easier.
If it’s still really stiff then there may be a problem or you may want to look into a hydraulic clutch conversion kit like this: amzn.to/3OuWZXY
That is an expensive option though.
The clutch gets nice after some miles I thought the same thing but after I drove it for awhile she shifts like a dream idk why but I think it’s just grabby af at first
do you need an oil cooler?
It is not a bad idea and this motor has the connections for one but I don’t use one. If I had to ride in stop and go traffic I would probably use one. I’ve never had any issues in over 1000 miles.
Clutch may be stiff, because you repositioned it , just saying those couple of knotches you moved it try putting it back and see if it frees up
That could be true although changing it the way I did should actually give me more leverage (in theory). I might try putting it back to see how it feels.
Get a nibbi clutch cable.. its longer than original stock@@NICKELGHANDI
@jonathantrejo8411 I do have one now. It works much better.
i had to use a zs190 clocking flange to make the carb face the rear.
I tried that. I got the chimera one from steady garage and the carb still won’t clear the frame or fairings.
@@NICKELGHANDI I replied to your post about exhaust on ChinaRiders...but for the carburetor... I had to cut off the original voltage regulator bracket, relocate the regulator, and then I was able to use the included PE28 carb and intake facing backwards. It cleared the frame (just), and using a Nibbi mesh filter with 45 degree angle, it'll tuck tightly but neatly under the left side plastics. Snug... but it fits.
I saw that and I think I’ve seen your video and that setup is clean. I think what you did is probably the right thing to do, but I really don’t want to cut any part of the bike. I may try a different intake manifold or something but my temps haven’t been above 230 at the hottest near the exhaust even without the cooler so I might just leave it. I really don’t wind it out or spend much time idling.
Is the Xpro badge on the tank a sticker that can be taken off?
It’s a sticker but it has clear coat over it. It would be difficult to remove. My advice is embrace the cheapness of it lol.
I wonder if that engine would work on an xpro mini jeep?
If it some with the 4 speed 125cc then it probably will.
12:56 sound sample
Do u know if I can do similar thing to honda grom clone venom 125cc to convert it
It can be done, but it is much more involved. The bolt pattern is different and if you want to keep the EFI that the Grom has then it is even more complex.
How many chain links did you need to get , the main bike chain?
This is the exact chain. It is also linked in the description. RK Racing Chain GB428MXZ-110 (428 Series) Gold 110 Link: amzn.to/3iXi2pk
Just bought a 2023 one, how long is the break in period
They say 500 miles but there are mixed opinions on that. I rode it harder than normal but changed the oil frequently and eventually the filter too in the ZS-190. The stock BD-125 motor doesn’t have a filter.
@@NICKELGHANDI did yu do any upgrades within the 500 miles or just kept it stock
I put the 17t sprocket on it and trimmed the chain cover to fit it. That made my top speed about 52mph although the bike really struggled and I’m only 145lbs.
Is there much of a difference between this and a 212cc engine? Im a big boy so figured id go with 212 over 190 but am not sure
The four valve 212 will get you substantially more power than the two valve 190. You’ll want a bigger front sprocket to keep rpm lower at higher speeds but if you have steep hills you may want to keep the smaller sprocket if you are a bigger guy.
@@NICKELGHANDI thats what i had suspected. i plan on changing the sprockets anyways for wheelies. This is my first time doing anything real mechanical like this so i dont know what im doing. Can i ask you what else i would need to swap on the bike to make it work? I know ill need to swap the carb out. Would the nibbi carb you linked in the description here also work with the 212cc? Also if you know of any parts that will need swapped any info is greatly appreciated.
You want a smaller sprocket for wheelies to get torque. I can wheelie mine on a 17t sprocket I’m second gear but I’m just under 150lbs.
To make it work with a 190 or 212 you’ll need to do a bit of rewiring. The exhaust needs changed as well. I recommend bullock performance for a zs-190 or 212 exhaust header and the muffler of your choosing. Most of the ZS motors come with a carb that is actually decent. You could use the linked nibbi carb but a 28mm or 30mm would be better. Nibbi makes those too.
When you get the motor you’ll want to tear it down as far as you are comfortable with and make sure that everything is torqued to spec and lubed properly. There are videos on here about that.
@@NICKELGHANDI big thanks bro!!!
2022 vader can have the speedo fixed? never heard that was possible
It definitely can. speedodrd.com. I emailed them and sent some photos of the connectors on my module and they sent me a plug and play kit.
@@NICKELGHANDII know it's been a few months but do you have the plug and play kit number?
I cannot link straight to it because the page has a drop-down to select the option. You can go here: shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59
Then select the C1 model from the drop-down list. If you have any questions email their support. They respond quickly and are very knowledgeable.
So you can now use this on the freeway legally ? W/ motorcycle license?
Yes, however I wouldn’t advise it. The wheels are too small to maintain good control at high speeds. You can handle it in a straight line but if you had to maneuver at all things would get wobbly.
Oh I see I have an xpro 125cc stock I’ve been thinking about upgrading it and using your video as a guide to that & use it to go to work lol it’s mainly streets but I’d have to get on the freeway for about 10mins i just don’t want to get pulled over … thanks for the info though!
Hey brother very sweet bike and very nice clean install... do you still have the stock engine and if so would you be interested in selling it?
I do still have the stock engine. They’re really cheap on Amazon though. By the time you pay for me to ship it to you, you could probably buy a new one. Here is one: amzn.to/4fzdI8d
@@NICKELGHANDI yea iv looked at a bunch of them on Amazon and eBay and you are exactly right especially if I got one that is kick start but I want the exact one like iv got now and iv found those but Amazon is currently unavailable and it's over 400 bucks with shipping... what would you want for yours with shipping and all
@@NICKELGHANDI thanks for responding also..
If you want it, you can just have it for the cost to ship it to you. Let me find out what that will be and I’ll let you know.
@@NICKELGHANDI ok cool thanks so much brother
What’s the highest speed you got out of it ?
So far 80. I’m sure with additional mods it would go a little faster but 80 isn’t really fun on something so small.
What is the link to the speedometer fix place?
Model C1
shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59
@@NICKELGHANDI which model did you get from the drop down menu?
Model C1
@@NICKELGHANDI was the wiring pretty straightforward? is it clocking pretty closely?
The wiring is plug and play. It clocks perfect with GPS until you get to about 50 and then drifts a tiny bit to the low side (as in you’re going faster than it reads). I don’t think I set it perfectly and will probably do the setting procedure again if I need to take the front assembly off for something else. It is probably less than 5 percent off at this point which equates to 2 mph off at 50mph. I can live with it lol.
what exhaust did you end up using?
A cheap Amazon one. amzn.to/3Hdr35q
I had to heat and bend it a bit but it works great.
@@NICKELGHANDI did you just bend it to make it come out the engine at more of a right angle so it clears the starter? i have the common amazon one for my 125 i might try to bend it but i worry its more restrictive to flow than the 200$ one everyone buys from kepspeed. really dont wanna buy another exhaust thought when this one has only 4oo miles on it
Sort of. It was more of a twisting bend. It doesn’t seem to restrict air flow but I did end up cracking the pipe and having to weld and anneal it. I’ll try to get a video up on how I did it and what I did wrong. Honestly buying the kepspeed one is probably the way to go.
You need a catch can for the oil tube to go in to so you don't end up with oil all over your tire and weld washer to the frame bolt holes the reinforce the hole for the bolts.👍👍✌️👌💯🏍️🍻
I would just use it to lubricate the chain. There's really not a lot coming out the hose. Mostly some smoke/clouds, and when the bike is at temperature, the hose vents water vapor that got inside.
@ProDigit80 yup as long as your not wheeling or punching it and then let off all the way. Both tend to make it shoot out about a cup of oil out of the tube with out a catch it's a big mess on your tire and clothes. ✌️😉
I just got min about a month ago just got around to opening it up sad mine has no XPro sticker. 😢
Lol it’s okay. You can always add one. Or add whatever sticker you want.
Can you tell me what the 6 plug male connector near at the headlight connects to? If I jump the red and black from it I can turn the bike on.
Do you know what it connects to?
Honestly im trying to upgrade the bike to work better but spending 1k on the bike when its worth 2k your alrrady putting more money in the bike then its actual retail price and thats dumb like whats the point on the bike might as well build your own bike
The idea is to get a better and faster bike than a Honda Grom for less money and learn some motorcycle mechanical skills along the way. If you have the frame welding skills then building your own bike is definitely the cheapest way to go. I can’t weld any better than the people who welded the frame of this bike together so I bought it instead. It’s not a cost to resale value. It’s a cost to fun value lol.
@@NICKELGHANDI man I want mine to run better but I just don't want to spend more money then what I bought it for but I heard down the line that it runs terrible with the stocked parts that they need to be upgrade out the factory but groms are just built Japanese ready because my friend has one and he treats it like crap and his runs better then mine he literally launches it off ramps and stuff
@brianperez379 The Grom is a better bike for reliability hands down. That said I beat on mine pretty hard and it does fine. There are parts that wear out that will need replaced but they’re all cheap and you can use Grom parts for better reliability long term. Or sell it and get a Grom. For me, I wanted power to go 55-60 without blowing up the motor and a cheap bike I can wheelie and do dirt trails without worrying about ruining an expensive bike. The Grom isn’t necessarily expensive but for a 125cc toy I don’t think it’s worth almost $4k and for what I do with this cheaper bike I wouldn’t be able to enjoy myself on a Grom.
My buddy has a Grom and it runs better and rides smoother but I win every race and can go more places and on more roads. I also have to turn a wrench on mine more often but for me it’s worth it. It’s all about what you want and what you’re willing and able to do.
The 125cc these come with is trash but the 190cc or the real Daytona 4 valve in 190 or 212 makes it a different bike both in reliability and power.
If you have the cash then it’s worth the upgrade. I’m planning to do a video soon detailing everything I had to do to make mine reliable and fast and the cost to do so.