0:25 - Intro 2:34 - Alternator Removal 10:54 - AC Belt Removal 12:29 - Power Steering Belt Removal 15:03 - Tensioner Pulley 17:02 - Power Steering Belt Replacement 20:12 - AC Belt Replacement 23:34 - Alternator Reinstall 29:58 - Wheel Reinstall 31:05 - Back to Alternator 33:35 - Reconnecting battery and finishing up
Just wanted to say thanks for making this video. My skills are limited to single serpentine belts on larger engines - I have never changed multiple belts on smaller engines - your heads ups, tips, and warnings are fantastic... makes the belts swapping job I have to do on a 93 Corolla so much easier. Thanks again for your excellent video and narration.
You are a pure joy to listen to and watch. Spent my entire morning sipping coffee and watching this. You're a NATURAL, so thanks for your efforts. You've got a little humour too that makes this so much fun! Thank you wise young man!
Thanks for taking the time in explaining all this. I just bought my second AE101 it’s been 10 years since I worked on one and this refreshed my memory! Got my subscription! 👍
finally! a good video of how to work in this engine! thank you! the only other alternative is that russian guy (who seems to know his stuff) but unfortunately i cant understand a single word of what he's saying. Make more for this engine please!
Thank you for the great guide man! Just've replaced all 3 drive belts on my 7th gen corolla after watching your vid. Now there're no weird sounds under the hood :)
Hey your videos about the 7th gen Corollas are awesome. I just purchased a 1996 Toyota Corolla DX auto. I appreciate your knowledge and skill on these cars. Peace and blessings 🙏
Hey Auto fix..Man, after bumping into this Video.. safe to say am a complete fan now. And please do make more of them if you may!. So I was experiencing a squeaky noise from the engine of my 95 Corolla and after some investigation s, figured it was from the timing belt. So being a DIY I had to replace it and your video really helped me get the Job done. Thanks so very much really appreciate it!.
I'm glad the video helped! I'll try to make some more Corolla videos soon. I have a few others planned right now but this year I am determined to bring back the Corolla to the channel. It's been absent for a long time lol
Thank-you sooo much!!! I was trying to replace all my belts for my 2001 corolla ascent today. I couldn't determine how to loosen the power steering belt. Your video was great in explaining, you have to loosen both 14mm bolts. Great to have such a great video as you have made, to help others....A+++++
Thank you so much for this video, helped me out so much working on my 6th gen Celica ST. Easy to follow steps and great tips made the job a lot easier than I thought, thank you!
Finally got around to changing belts. Removing alternator and removing tire and dropping splash shield are great tips. Couldn't imagine doing it otherwise. Although starting bolt into block on tensioner was a pain. Great video and thanks.
@@richardswain537 I just looked. I don't think the water pump belt will be an issue. I do think the alternator belt is a problem. Power steering belt is closer to engine. I don't see a way to get power steering belt around alternator belt. Good luck 👍
The water pump on these is driven by the alternator belt. So you will need to take that off first in order to remove the PS belt. You don't need to remove it all the way but just take it off the water pump.
GREAT video, I've got the toyota EPC-data pictures of the v-belts for my corolla on the side and it's so clear what you're doing, props to your video making skills and thank you!
As someone who just used this, you do not need to lift the car to successfully complete the alternator belt if that’s all you’re doing. Just do the three bolts he showed for the alternator mounting, and it’ll go on and off like a piece of cake. I will say that if you’re using your standard set of tools 1/2, 3/8, and 9/16, you’re gonna want to go get the 12mm. For the front of the bracket (the bolt you have to “unlock”) it won’t take the 1/2 because it’s too big or the 7/16 cause it’s too small.
Agreed, for just the alternator belt you can do it easily from up top. And yes, I don't think many people nowadays have just standard tools, but if you do, a metric set is a must for any vehicle that is domestic and made past the 80s or so, since they all use metric now. Otherwise it's either not going to work or it will round off the fasteners.
you saved me from buying a new car. While I was driving two of my belts snapped and the power steering one got pretty mauled- I didn't notice my engine heating up and it caused my radiator to crack, if I didn't fix it myself my car was as good as totaled. I've had the car for a year or so and I'm guessing the guy before me didn't check his engine much either. Before it broke it was loud and noisy, but reliable so I thought it was just cause 'it's an old car'. Now it doesn't sound like hell when I turn it on :,D
Haha that's scary that that happened but now you know how to fix it and also you know what to periodically replace! Belts are often forgotten and this is the result of that.
Thank you! I actually already replaced the timing belt last summer, but because it was my first time ever doing a timing belt I decided not to film it. Maybe in the future though!
@@AutoFixYT No problem, is there any chance of you doing a video on changing the timing belt and waterpump on this car (4AFE/7AFE)? I'm asking because it will be good to do them both at once since to do the water pump the timing belt needs to come-off.
@@kn520 I actually have already changed my timing belt and water pump a few years ago so mine is still good for a while, but when the time comes to change them again I will definitely make a video. It's actually not very difficult, I'd say the hardest part is getting the water pump hose off of the water pump, which is on the back of the block. And there is almost no room for your hands back there. I ended up cutting my hose. Otherwise it's very simple. And being non interference, if you mess up nothing bad happens. It just won't start or run very well.
@@AutoFixYT Thanks a lot for the response. I'll keep a look out for the video. There is a large scope and audience for videos on Toyota Corolla's the 4AFE and 7AFE because of the large fan base of these car models (being so common and popular), with surprisingly, a very few videos about them online so I can tell you for a fact there's millions of people out there looking for such resources online and it will be great for your channel. So keep up the good work and videos! Thanks again!
My Corolla ac idler pulley was so rusted my regular 14 mm offset wrench started roasting it! Had to put to work the 60$ snap-on 14mm line flarenut wrench and it came off well
Could be struts, yes. But... it could also be sway bar links or even the sway bar bushings but those don't make a crunching noise, more like a knocking noise over bumps. But yeah probably struts.
Hey, is it possible to get a/c in a e11 that didnt originally have a/c? The bolt holes and space for an a/c unit should be alrdy there but idk how difficult it is
You need the compressor, all brackets, ac tensioner pulley, new harmonic balancer that has AC ribs, belt, AC lines, AC condenser, accumulator, evaporator core (goes next to your heater core) and potentially an AC evap core box (idk if the non AC cars had space for an evaporator core), and then you need the wiring that triggers the AC, the button that goes on your dash, and an idle-up valve that goes in the engine bay to idle up the engine when the AC is on. I think that's about it, but I might be forgetting something. Personally, I don't think it's worth it at all. But... if you really want it, you're better off buying a parts car that has it and taking all those parts off if it.
@@AutoFixYT thank you for your fast and detailed response. Adding a/c is more complicated than i was aware of and i guess it would be a bit too much for me to handle. The e11 it my first car so im very eager to learn about it and improve it. i guess i should focus on fixing the oil leak (which i hope is located at the valve gasket) and the fuel smell on could start. Again thank you very much, both the video and ur response were very helpful.
I have a Geo Prizm 1994 and i love your wheels. Where did you get them and what is the name of them so i can look around the net to find them for sale.
I bought them on Craigslist from a guy that had them on a 1st gen Miata. They're Motegi MR7, they've been out of production for numerous years now so you can't buy them new but plenty of people still sell them used. Mine are 16x7 and I run 205/50R16 summer tires for plenty of grip. They fit well, but they do rub in the back if you don't roll your fender. I just smashed them with the hammer for faster progress.
I have a 1994 toyota Corolla Station Wagon, same colour. The video is amazing, I watched it so I could change my belts but now I need help. The nut at 11:00 is rusted and rounded. Not sure how to remove. Thanks in advance.
Nice! They're awesome cars! About the nut... you need to apply a lot of heat to it, you might need a new pulley or at least a new bearing for it after you're done. Find yourself either a 6-point wrench or a socket that's shallow enough to fit, and use a pry bar to force it on (you'll need to go one size down so if it's a 14 mm then use a 13 mm). Whatever you do don't use a 12-point anything. Heat up the nut and break it free. Then replace it with a new one. Good luck! Keep me updated!
It's actually easier than you might think. The engine is a non interference engine so don't worry about destroying it. It can be a little tight in there but totally doable. Just make sure you know the torque specs of the essential parts and know where the timing marks need to be lined up.
Thank you for this video. My AC compressor belt broke on me last night there was a lot of smoke everywhere I pulled over to check the car out didn’t see any more smoke drove it back home and parked it. Is it OK to drive without the AC belt?
Yes it is ok to drive like that, you just won't have AC. Make sure you check for any leftovers of the belt though. You don't want to have small pieces that got shredded and stuck behind the pulleys. That will cause other major damage. If you replace one belt, replace all three.
Thank you! The purpose of an oil catch can is to collect all the oil that comes out of your crankcase through the PCV system, before it goes back to the intake. If you have a lot of low by from worn piston rings like I do, then a lot of junk (oil and combustion fumes) will be floating around in the crankcase, which will escape via the PVV valve. Usually that's routed straight back into the intake. What happens then though is all those fumes stick to the inside of the intake and clog it all up, or make it very restrictive. I had to take mine apart and clean it thoroughly a couple years ago. The oil catch can separates those fumes and collects them so you can dispose of them before it goes into the intake. Long explanation sorry lol but hopefully I covered it all
Mine has 336k. The severity of the oil issue depends on maintenance. Before I had the car, it wasn't always serviced every 3k miles with fresh oil so I'm sure that affected it
Like I said in the video I am putting very little pressure on it, and I have a metal reservoir, not plastic. You don't need a lot of pressure to tension the belt. Just enough to stretch it and that's it
@@AutoFixYT Okay, I'm planning to replace my timing belt, and this video is very useful. Your corolla 7th gen video series is great and I'm waiting for another how to for this car. Keep up the good work and greeting from Indonesia 👍
Thank you! Always happy to help! Good luck on the timing belt, I did mine last summer. It's an easy job but be gentle around the crankshaft position sensor. They break easily. The engine is non interference so the pistons won't hit the valves if you do it wrong. So if you do, just try again! :)
I won't do a timing belt on the Corolla anytime soon because I just did my timing belt and water pump last summer (2018) so it'll be good for a while. It was my first ever timing belt job so I didn't want to film but it wasn't hard so next time I'll film it
nice video bro.. i have a question if the PS belt is over tightened will that cause the power steering pulley to seize? every time i turn the wheel in either direction the PS pulley has trouble spinning and sometimes just stops completely along with the belt. thanks
That will most likely happen due to a worn pump that can't push fluid around anymore. It could happen if you have the belt overtightened for a long time if it ruined the bearing but you'd get other symptoms with that such as a wobbly pulley, noisy pulley, and maybe even damaged belt. If all it does is stop spinning and makes the belt slip, it's most likely a bad pump that you need to replace. Before you replace the pump though, check the fluid. If it's not clean, flush it. Old fluid can do that too if it's so old that it doesn't hold pressure anymore.
The brand is called DEPO. Just search 1995 (or whatever year your car is) black housing headlights. I then opened those up and added a projector to the low beams.
I've been driving my '97 Prizm (aka Corolla) for a few months now without power steering because the belt broke. So, yes, the water pump should still work. I was watching this to learn how to replace that belt. I think I can do it now.
@@leefrench9567 I just did my belts on my '97 Prizm. The power steering is the only thing on that belt, which is driven from the belt driving the water pump. '98 models went with the full single serpentine. I know this was a month ago but if you haven't got to it yet be forewarned.. It may not be easy to find the right belts which is the opposite of what I assumed being basically a Corolla. Maybe I should have said '97 Corolla now that I think about it. I grabbed 3 PS belts before finally taking the old destroyed one up there to compare and be absolutely sure. It took just the tiniest bit of extra slack in one I bought for it to not work with the adjustment available. You might as well grab an alternator belt as well since it has to come off anyway. I thought my belts still looked fine after some squeaking when first cranking it up but it didn't take long for them to suddenly go completely. I ended up with a 'NBH 25030245' from NAPA that works good for the PS belt and just grabbed an alternator belt from Autozone. Mine didn't have a removable splash guard behind the wheel but I could still get to the bolt easy enough with the car on a jack stand. Took a prybar for leverage while pulling for deal life on the ratchet to break it but once I did that everything else was easy. Used a 9/16 wrench I believe on the top bolt. Just a regular cheap ratchet set for the alternator bolts. After the initial finagling with the alternator bolts (which I didn't remove at all, just loosened til I could move it) the whole process took probably less than 10 minutes.
For anyone that’s looking this also works for 6th gen Celica models with the 1.8l 7afe engine. There’s not one video that I could that shows how to remove ALL 3 belts
Hey man great content! I was changing the pcv valve on my 91 Corolla 4A-FE engine and half of the grommet fell into the hole! I have driven it since and it sounded like the pieces were crushed up at first and now idles normally. The engine seems to be running fine. Will any pieces make their way into the cylinder heads or will they just be burnt up and passed by the engine? Thanks in advance!
Thank you! And oh no! Ok so in this case I advise you to take the valve cover off and inspect the cams, and make sure no oil passages are blocked by the grommet particles. Clean out everything you think is a piece of the grommet. You don't want any particles in there. That's bad. The pieces will not get burned up because the combustion chamber has no connection to the area where the cams are located. You need to clean those pieces out yourself otherwise they might damage the cams or clog up oil passages which is not good. Valve cover only has 4 10mm nuts on top. Remove them, remove the spark plug wires, then gently pry the grommets under those nuts and then remove those too. Then gently pry the valve cover up and it should unseal itself. This can take some time but be gentle. Also make sure you have a new valve cover gasket on hand because you may or may not need to replace the existing one. I would though. Then clean out any particles you might see, then reverse the process to reinstall everything in order. Best of luck!
Oh and also perform at least one oil and filter change after you're done cleaning stuff out. You want to run lots of clean oil through the engine to ensure nothing is left in there that can cause damage
How many liters of transmission carry those automatic boxes is bad if you go over the level of a 1994 toyota corolla and how much does it take to do the service to the box
It should say it in your owner's manual how much fluid it takes. I don't know how much a 94 automatic takes. There are also multiple options. There is a 3 speed, a 4 speed with no overdrive, and a 4 speed with overdrive. So it depends what you have. Do not go over the full mark. Level should be read with the engine running, transmission warmed up, in park or neutral, and the car on a flat leveled surface.
Hello thank you for this tutorial but I have a question I need to put back my harmonic balancer on my Toyota Corolla 1994 but any idea how much torque I need to tight the bolt on this harmonic balancer please help thank you.....
As of 5:00 pm today I just finished doing all three of these stupid belts, it was a huge pain in the ass my idler pulley was stuck and I rounded it out then I had to go buy bolt extractor set and then find a way to fit a socket in there “witch was very hard” finally got that off and the the stupid alternator bottom bolt took me a hour to get lined up with the other one, it took me 4 hours all together to do this
Question. At 22m. You said if it squeaks, tighten or loosen. I put on a new pull and belt for my ac and not matter what I do it squeaks, so annoying. What do I do to fix this
If you are sure you have the correct tension on the belt, make sure you didn't over tighten the pulley. Also make sure the belt didn't get any oils or grease on it. Other than that... maybe you can see where the squeak is coming from. Is it from the tensioner pulley, or is it from the AC compressor. Could be a bad bearing in the AC compressor.
great video. I have a 97 Corolla with around 56k miles on it. When we first were gifted the car around 2 years into using it the engine literally blew up, we spent around 2k on getting it replaced. That was 3 years ago and the car has been fine and reliable. But is there anyway of finding out how old the replacement engine is and how many miles it had been used?
Great questions. First of all, thanks for watching! Ok now to answer your questions. Finding out the mileage is impossible, unless you know what car it came from and look at the odometer. Having said that, you can definitely assess its condition. The most basic way of doing this is to run a simple compression test. Wet and dry. EricTheCarGuy has a video on how to do this and I'm sure there are many others on RUclips. That will tell you if all the cylinders are up to spec when it comes to compression. Low compression can be due to worn out piston rings or maybe the valves aren't seating properly against the head. Carbon buildup on the valves is not an issue for you because those engines are port fuel injection, not direct injection. Another way you can go about doing this is to have an oil analysis done. ChrisFix has a great video on this called "What Does A 300k Mile Oil Change Look Like?". There he shows you how to take a sample from the oil, and how to read the results that come back from the lab. Those are the best two ways of assessing the engine health without disassembly. My advice with these engines is to replace the oil often. Do it yourself to save money if you can! Fresh oil every 3k miles will guarantee that it will stay healthy. And make sure to keep it full if it burns oil. I have to top mine off every 1500 miles with a little less than a quart, and I change it every 3k miles. I have personally seen engines that look old and beat up and burn tons of oil at just 70-80k miles, and engines that don't leak, don't burn a drop, and look good at over 230k miles! So mileage isn't always a key factor, especially when it comes to Toyotas. So make sure you keep up on all the maintenance (fluids, parts, belts, etc) and it'll live happily for a very very long time!
If you do decide to get an oil analysis, make sure that you change the oil with the same exact one a few oil changes in a row, tat way additives and viscosities don't mix. I use Castrol GTX High Mileage - I have a video on changing the oil on the Corolla. Pick one and stick with it. If you are taking a sample of the oil, drive at least 2k miles if you can without topping it off. That way the oil gets a little "dirty" from being used and the results can be more accurate. If you can go 3k miles that would be optimal. I say this because I cannot personally go that far with my Corolla without having to top off the oil. Good luck!
Those were Riken Raptor tires. Great tires for the price! Highly recommended. I didn’t stick with them because they discontinued them in the size I needed them in.
Can you please do a timing belt video, I need to do it on mine, can you remove the last belt you did without removing any of the other belts? That’s the only one of the theee I need to do
0:25 - Intro
2:34 - Alternator Removal
10:54 - AC Belt Removal
12:29 - Power Steering Belt Removal
15:03 - Tensioner Pulley
17:02 - Power Steering Belt Replacement
20:12 - AC Belt Replacement
23:34 - Alternator Reinstall
29:58 - Wheel Reinstall
31:05 - Back to Alternator
33:35 - Reconnecting battery and finishing up
Thank you for this!!
wow so nice to jump around
Just wanted to say thanks for making this video. My skills are limited to single serpentine belts on larger engines - I have never changed multiple belts on smaller engines - your heads ups, tips, and warnings are fantastic... makes the belts swapping job I have to do on a 93 Corolla so much easier. Thanks again for your excellent video and narration.
Thank you very much, I'm happy that the video helped out!
You are a pure joy to listen to and watch. Spent my entire morning sipping coffee and watching this. You're a NATURAL, so thanks for your efforts. You've got a little humour too that makes this so much fun! Thank you wise young man!
Thank you!
222
WWqw a2wzA
2wq q w2 a qw we ww we saw www
Swww2www m w2
Ww2qWwwwq2
we
222q
2wwwww
W
2w
W
W
W
3
www
2
Z
Replaced my alternator belt with the help of this video
very useful video
gonna watch this for the 375th time when i replace the other belts lol
Thank you! Glad the video was helpful!
Thanks for taking the time in explaining all this.
I just bought my second AE101 it’s been 10 years since I worked on one and this refreshed my memory! Got my subscription! 👍
finally! a good video of how to work in this engine! thank you! the only other alternative is that russian guy (who seems to know his stuff) but unfortunately i cant understand a single word of what he's saying. Make more for this engine please!
Haha I think I know who you're talking about, but thank you! I will make more videos on this car for sure!
Man you put too much effort on these videos specially for an old Corolla which is rare lol appreciate it
Already subscribed 👍
Thanks! Well they're not as rare as you might think, and I enjoy making the videos. So it's a win-win!
Thank you for the great guide man!
Just've replaced all 3 drive belts on my 7th gen corolla after watching your vid. Now there're no weird sounds under the hood :)
That's awesome! I'm glad the video helped!
Hey your videos about the 7th gen Corollas are awesome. I just purchased a 1996 Toyota Corolla DX auto. I appreciate your knowledge and skill on these cars. Peace and blessings 🙏
Thank you! I'm glad they're coming I handy!
@@AutoFixYT absolutely 😁
This is the most complete instructional video,I replaced all belts in a flash.Thank you.
Thank you!
This video is exactly what I needed! Very well done! To the point, great quality. Thank you for taking the time to make this. Helped me out BIG TIME
Thank you! I'm happy the video helped!
Hey Auto fix..Man, after bumping into this Video.. safe to say am a complete fan now. And please do make more of them if you may!.
So I was experiencing a squeaky noise from the engine of my 95 Corolla and after some investigation s, figured it was from the timing belt. So being a DIY I had to replace it and your video really helped me get the Job done. Thanks so very much really appreciate it!.
I'm glad the video helped! I'll try to make some more Corolla videos soon. I have a few others planned right now but this year I am determined to bring back the Corolla to the channel. It's been absent for a long time lol
I just replaced all 3 belts thanks to your video, you’re the best 👍🏽
Thank-you sooo much!!! I was trying to replace all my belts for my 2001 corolla ascent today. I couldn't determine how to loosen the power steering belt. Your video was great in explaining, you have to loosen both 14mm bolts. Great to have such a great video as you have made, to help others....A+++++
Thank you! Glad the video was helpful!
Thank you so much for this video, helped me out so much working on my 6th gen Celica ST. Easy to follow steps and great tips made the job a lot easier than I thought, thank you!
Awesome!! I'm glad the video helped!
Keep it up this one really helped me out I just got a 1994 Toyota celica n am new to doing it my self this really helps I appreciate you
Awesome! I'm glad this helped!
Finally got around to changing belts. Removing alternator and removing tire and dropping splash shield are great tips. Couldn't imagine doing it otherwise. Although starting bolt into block on tensioner was a pain. Great video and thanks.
Can you replace your pwr steering belt without taking off the water pump belt??
@@richardswain537 I just looked. I don't think the water pump belt will be an issue.
I do think the alternator belt is a problem. Power steering belt is closer to engine. I don't see a way to get power steering belt around alternator belt.
Good luck 👍
@@baron7024 thanks
The water pump on these is driven by the alternator belt. So you will need to take that off first in order to remove the PS belt. You don't need to remove it all the way but just take it off the water pump.
Even easier if cv axle knuckle and engine cradle is all removed!!!
3:23 - 3:27
Biggest life lesson for every guy
Exceptional video quality. Very good step-by-step narration.
Thank you!
Exactly what I was looking for. This video should have way more views. Great job and thank you
Thank you! Glad I could help!
This helped me fix my girls Corolla you’re a life saver man! Anyway I can donate to you?
I'm happy the video helped! And hey, you watching the video is enough of a donation for me, so thank you!
@link2link lol. You mean , your man's corolla! 👦 & 👦
@@goldentrucker7921 waiting for the joke 🤔
Looks like someone is out of the dog house... You beast you!
I was able to replace my 1996 Toyota Corolla because of this video. Thank you!!
Awesome!
thanks a lot! just what i was looking for! a very well made easy to follow video. people like you make this site great
Thank you for the awesome feedback, and glad I was able to help!
GREAT video, I've got the toyota EPC-data pictures of the v-belts for my corolla on the side and it's so clear what you're doing, props to your video making skills and thank you!
Thank you!
As someone who just used this, you do not need to lift the car to successfully complete the alternator belt if that’s all you’re doing.
Just do the three bolts he showed for the alternator mounting, and it’ll go on and off like a piece of cake. I will say that if you’re using your standard set of tools 1/2, 3/8, and 9/16, you’re gonna want to go get the 12mm. For the front of the bracket (the bolt you have to “unlock”) it won’t take the 1/2 because it’s too big or the 7/16 cause it’s too small.
Agreed, for just the alternator belt you can do it easily from up top.
And yes, I don't think many people nowadays have just standard tools, but if you do, a metric set is a must for any vehicle that is domestic and made past the 80s or so, since they all use metric now. Otherwise it's either not going to work or it will round off the fasteners.
@@AutoFixYT everything else worked except for that very front bolt, so you’re smooth sailing until you get to the front one
Good to know!
you saved me from buying a new car. While I was driving two of my belts snapped and the power steering one got pretty mauled- I didn't notice my engine heating up and it caused my radiator to crack, if I didn't fix it myself my car was as good as totaled. I've had the car for a year or so and I'm guessing the guy before me didn't check his engine much either. Before it broke it was loud and noisy, but reliable so I thought it was just cause 'it's an old car'. Now it doesn't sound like hell when I turn it on :,D
Haha that's scary that that happened but now you know how to fix it and also you know what to periodically replace! Belts are often forgotten and this is the result of that.
Nice job. Thank you for making this!! I would love to see you do a timing belt video on this vehicle
Thank you! I actually already replaced the timing belt last summer, but because it was my first time ever doing a timing belt I decided not to film it. Maybe in the future though!
Excellent, concise and comprehensive video, greatly appreciated!
Thank you
@@AutoFixYT No problem, is there any chance of you doing a video on changing the timing belt and waterpump on this car (4AFE/7AFE)?
I'm asking because it will be good to do them both at once since to do the water pump the timing belt needs to come-off.
@@kn520 I actually have already changed my timing belt and water pump a few years ago so mine is still good for a while, but when the time comes to change them again I will definitely make a video. It's actually not very difficult, I'd say the hardest part is getting the water pump hose off of the water pump, which is on the back of the block. And there is almost no room for your hands back there. I ended up cutting my hose. Otherwise it's very simple. And being non interference, if you mess up nothing bad happens. It just won't start or run very well.
@@AutoFixYT Thanks a lot for the response. I'll keep a look out for the video. There is a large scope and audience for videos on Toyota Corolla's the 4AFE and 7AFE because of the large fan base of these car models (being so common and popular), with surprisingly, a very few videos about them online so I can tell you for a fact there's millions of people out there looking for such resources online and it will be great for your channel. So keep up the good work and videos! Thanks again!
@@kn520 Agreed! I have several videos lined up for the Corolla but haven't had time to get to them. Parts have been waiting for a few months now 😬
Cheers mate, good show. Iv'e got a 2000 AE112R . Saved me alot of time and effort doing the belts . Thanks
Awesome, I'm glad the video helped!
Truly helpful tutorial, making it simple TY!!
Thank you!
My Corolla ac idler pulley was so rusted my regular 14 mm offset wrench started roasting it!
Had to put to work the 60$ snap-on 14mm line flarenut wrench and it came off well
Haha yeah sounds like a tough situation for sure, but at least you were able to get it done!
Awesome video. Great detail and the tool sizes are much appreciated.
Thanks!!!
Thank you. I was just trying to figure out how to get the a/c compressor belt loose so I can track down which pulley is going bad.
Well done thanks for your time/ video!
Thanks!
video could not be any better.Thank you,it was great
Thank you! I'm glad the video helped!
Thanks much!!! Super helpful for getting my AC working in August TX!!!!
Very thorough sir, thank you so much for the very sensible, straightforward info
Thank you!
Damn perfect explanation and camera angle, appreciate it!
Thank you! I'm glad the video was helpful!
Dude those headlights look so nice!!
Yeah they make the car look a lot better, plus they performed great at night!
good proper instruction for AE100 enthusiasts🙌
Thank you!
Amazing video. Love the detail. Dont miss anything
Thank you!
Appreciate the vid! Working on my celica with the 7AFE, going to be replacing the belts real soon!
I'm glat this video came in handy!
thank you so much for this video. it will help me out so much soon this month!!!
Glad it helped!
Thank you change my first belt it was hard I did it car sound better now thank for the directions
Glad I was able to help! And congratulations on your first belt change!
Nice video I have 1997 Toyota Corolla and my alternator belt was really loose and was able to tighten it again thanks
Nice! I'm glad the video was helpful!
Thanks for the video man. That makes a world of difference
Thanks! I'm glad it was hepful!
Any advice on a 97 corolla dx. Terrible crunching noise from the rear end. I assume struts.
Could be struts, yes. But... it could also be sway bar links or even the sway bar bushings but those don't make a crunching noise, more like a knocking noise over bumps. But yeah probably struts.
1993 geo prizm same color. 1.8...awesome work...liked the oil collector idea
Hey, is it possible to get a/c in a e11 that didnt originally have a/c?
The bolt holes and space for an a/c unit should be alrdy there but idk how difficult it is
You need the compressor, all brackets, ac tensioner pulley, new harmonic balancer that has AC ribs, belt, AC lines, AC condenser, accumulator, evaporator core (goes next to your heater core) and potentially an AC evap core box (idk if the non AC cars had space for an evaporator core), and then you need the wiring that triggers the AC, the button that goes on your dash, and an idle-up valve that goes in the engine bay to idle up the engine when the AC is on. I think that's about it, but I might be forgetting something.
Personally, I don't think it's worth it at all. But... if you really want it, you're better off buying a parts car that has it and taking all those parts off if it.
@@AutoFixYT thank you for your fast and detailed response.
Adding a/c is more complicated than i was aware of and i guess it would be a bit too much for me to handle.
The e11 it my first car so im very eager to learn about it and improve it. i guess i should focus on fixing the oil leak (which i hope is located at the valve gasket) and the fuel smell on could start.
Again thank you very much, both the video and ur response were very helpful.
Great video! You should also do a video on how to clean the throttle body
Ok I'll keep that in mind, thanks!
Awesome mate now I know where to start
Thanks! Happy I was able to help!
I have a Geo Prizm 1994 and i love your wheels. Where did you get them and what is the name of them so i can look around the net to find them for sale.
I bought them on Craigslist from a guy that had them on a 1st gen Miata. They're Motegi MR7, they've been out of production for numerous years now so you can't buy them new but plenty of people still sell them used. Mine are 16x7 and I run 205/50R16 summer tires for plenty of grip. They fit well, but they do rub in the back if you don't roll your fender. I just smashed them with the hammer for faster progress.
@@AutoFixYT Your video was awesome by the way. One of the only ones on RUclips showing how to remove and replace those belts. Much appreciated.
Thank you!
Cool video dude! Thanks from Brazil.
Thanks!
I have a 1994 toyota Corolla Station Wagon, same colour.
The video is amazing, I watched it so I could change my belts but now I need help.
The nut at 11:00 is rusted and rounded. Not sure how to remove.
Thanks in advance.
Nice! They're awesome cars! About the nut... you need to apply a lot of heat to it, you might need a new pulley or at least a new bearing for it after you're done. Find yourself either a 6-point wrench or a socket that's shallow enough to fit, and use a pry bar to force it on (you'll need to go one size down so if it's a 14 mm then use a 13 mm). Whatever you do don't use a 12-point anything. Heat up the nut and break it free. Then replace it with a new one.
Good luck! Keep me updated!
@@AutoFixYT I'll try it this afternoon, hopefully my pencil tip bronze propane torch is hot enough.
Any luck?
You're a life saver bro! Much appreciated!
Thanks! Glad I was able to help!
Great and nice work. Explain how easy is it. Thanks.
Thanks!
Definitely subscribing... Great videos man!
Thank you!
@@AutoFixYT No man, thank you...
Well done nice tutorial video... I want to do the timing belt but it seems a lot of work and very difficult to do.
It's actually easier than you might think. The engine is a non interference engine so don't worry about destroying it. It can be a little tight in there but totally doable. Just make sure you know the torque specs of the essential parts and know where the timing marks need to be lined up.
@@AutoFixYT thanks I'll given it a try, one day.
I'd make a video on it but I already did the belt two years ago haha so I won't be making a video on it until it needs to be done again lol
@@AutoFixYT I seen that video it was great... How do you adjust the timing on these Corolla 93'? Maybe you can teach us how as well.
@@ZEDNANREHIGH I have other videos lined up right now but when I make a timing belt video I'll go over that as well
Thanks for ur support, very apreciated
Man, that corolla sounds manly.
Thank you so much you help me as i have this engine in an 110 and it so much help seeing this
Awesome, glad it helped!
nice video,im learning a lot step by step,thank you
Thank you! I'm glad the video was helpful!
Thank you for this video. My AC compressor belt broke on me last night there was a lot of smoke everywhere I pulled over to check the car out didn’t see any more smoke drove it back home and parked it. Is it OK to drive without the AC belt?
Yes it is ok to drive like that, you just won't have AC. Make sure you check for any leftovers of the belt though. You don't want to have small pieces that got shredded and stuck behind the pulleys. That will cause other major damage. If you replace one belt, replace all three.
Outstanding video (and a gorgeous 7th gen Corolla!). What's the purpose of the oil catch can?
Thank you!
The purpose of an oil catch can is to collect all the oil that comes out of your crankcase through the PCV system, before it goes back to the intake. If you have a lot of low by from worn piston rings like I do, then a lot of junk (oil and combustion fumes) will be floating around in the crankcase, which will escape via the PVV valve. Usually that's routed straight back into the intake. What happens then though is all those fumes stick to the inside of the intake and clog it all up, or make it very restrictive. I had to take mine apart and clean it thoroughly a couple years ago. The oil catch can separates those fumes and collects them so you can dispose of them before it goes into the intake.
Long explanation sorry lol but hopefully I covered it all
@@AutoFixYT Definitely, thanks! How many miles are on yours? My '94 is at 150K and doesn't seem to have the oil blow-by issue yet.
Mine has 336k. The severity of the oil issue depends on maintenance. Before I had the car, it wasn't always serviced every 3k miles with fresh oil so I'm sure that affected it
is it safe to use pry bar on power steering reservoir to tighten PS belt?
Like I said in the video I am putting very little pressure on it, and I have a metal reservoir, not plastic. You don't need a lot of pressure to tension the belt. Just enough to stretch it and that's it
@@AutoFixYT Okay, I'm planning to replace my timing belt, and this video is very useful. Your corolla 7th gen video series is great and I'm waiting for another how to for this car. Keep up the good work and greeting from Indonesia 👍
Thank you! Always happy to help! Good luck on the timing belt, I did mine last summer. It's an easy job but be gentle around the crankshaft position sensor. They break easily. The engine is non interference so the pistons won't hit the valves if you do it wrong. So if you do, just try again! :)
i hope you can do a how to video on timing belt it will be a huge help if you do that thank you for your hard work
I won't do a timing belt on the Corolla anytime soon because I just did my timing belt and water pump last summer (2018) so it'll be good for a while. It was my first ever timing belt job so I didn't want to film but it wasn't hard so next time I'll film it
@@AutoFixYT got it I, can't wait untill next time
Hi man great videos!!!
I own 99 corolla..
Do you have a video on timing belt replacement?
I don't but this is a highly requested video so I might be doing it in the near future!
Excellent video. I love these cars.
Thanks! And yes they are awesome cars indeed!
Really well videoed, thanks, most helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video I would like to to ask you can be posible to have the car running without the ac belt since I don’t use the Ac ???
Yes you can
@@AutoFixYT okay 👍🏻 thank you excellent
nice video bro.. i have a question if the PS belt is over tightened will that cause the power steering pulley to seize? every time i turn the wheel in either direction the PS pulley has trouble spinning and sometimes just stops completely along with the belt. thanks
That will most likely happen due to a worn pump that can't push fluid around anymore. It could happen if you have the belt overtightened for a long time if it ruined the bearing but you'd get other symptoms with that such as a wobbly pulley, noisy pulley, and maybe even damaged belt. If all it does is stop spinning and makes the belt slip, it's most likely a bad pump that you need to replace. Before you replace the pump though, check the fluid. If it's not clean, flush it. Old fluid can do that too if it's so old that it doesn't hold pressure anymore.
What size in inches is the belt for the altanator?
Should be about 38"
Can you use the pink coolant by any mean? I'm tryna do a proper flush with my coolant, also putting oem v belts.
Yeah you can use pink but you can also use red which is what these cars were designed for, and you can also use yellow universal coolant.
@@AutoFixYT the zerex should do it right,Do you have a flush of coolant video?
@@JalenRose02 I don't have a video on it unfortunately. But ChrisFix has a good one that you can follow and just apply to this situation!
yep great vid mate.. legend.. I have a sr20 to work on , so this gives me an idea
Thank you! And good luck to you!
Thank you AMIGO. This video help me a lot..
Thanks!
Excellent video! Thank you!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video !
Nice work dude
Thanks!!
Chrisfix of corollas! 🤘❤️
Haha thank you!
Please tell me what kind of wheels those are, they are so sick. Thanks for the content!
Motegi MR7 16X7 +42 offset with 205/50 tires. They are discontinued but you can still find them used. And thank you!
@@AutoFixYT thank you man, I have a 97 AE101 and I’m really trying to fix it up and make it a clean car. You don’t know how much it means truly.
@@poppinfresh5261 Awesome! I love mine, these cars are really fun to work on, and to drive. So enjoy yours to its fullest!
Hey man, can you pls advise what is the manufacturer of the headlights you use?
The brand is called DEPO. Just search 1995 (or whatever year your car is) black housing headlights.
I then opened those up and added a projector to the low beams.
@@AutoFixYT thanks a lot!
Will the water pump still work without the powersteering belt just asking because I might just delete the powersteering
Yeah it should. I think the water pump is driven off of a different belt.
I've been driving my '97 Prizm (aka Corolla) for a few months now without power steering because the belt broke. So, yes, the water pump should still work. I was watching this to learn how to replace that belt. I think I can do it now.
@@leefrench9567 I just did my belts on my '97 Prizm. The power steering is the only thing on that belt, which is driven from the belt driving the water pump. '98 models went with the full single serpentine. I know this was a month ago but if you haven't got to it yet be forewarned.. It may not be easy to find the right belts which is the opposite of what I assumed being basically a Corolla. Maybe I should have said '97 Corolla now that I think about it. I grabbed 3 PS belts before finally taking the old destroyed one up there to compare and be absolutely sure. It took just the tiniest bit of extra slack in one I bought for it to not work with the adjustment available. You might as well grab an alternator belt as well since it has to come off anyway. I thought my belts still looked fine after some squeaking when first cranking it up but it didn't take long for them to suddenly go completely. I ended up with a 'NBH 25030245' from NAPA that works good for the PS belt and just grabbed an alternator belt from Autozone. Mine didn't have a removable splash guard behind the wheel but I could still get to the bolt easy enough with the car on a jack stand. Took a prybar for leverage while pulling for deal life on the ratchet to break it but once I did that everything else was easy. Used a 9/16 wrench I believe on the top bolt. Just a regular cheap ratchet set for the alternator bolts. After the initial finagling with the alternator bolts (which I didn't remove at all, just loosened til I could move it) the whole process took probably less than 10 minutes.
For anyone that’s looking this also works for 6th gen Celica models with the 1.8l 7afe engine. There’s not one video that I could that shows how to remove ALL 3 belts
Yup, anything with a 7A or 4A block should be the same if not very similar.
Rocking video bud you have a really good voice and clarity
Thank you!
Hey man great content! I was changing the pcv valve on my 91 Corolla 4A-FE engine and half of the grommet fell into the hole! I have driven it since and it sounded like the pieces were crushed up at first and now idles normally. The engine seems to be running fine. Will any pieces make their way into the cylinder heads or will they just be burnt up and passed by the engine? Thanks in advance!
Thank you!
And oh no! Ok so in this case I advise you to take the valve cover off and inspect the cams, and make sure no oil passages are blocked by the grommet particles. Clean out everything you think is a piece of the grommet. You don't want any particles in there. That's bad. The pieces will not get burned up because the combustion chamber has no connection to the area where the cams are located. You need to clean those pieces out yourself otherwise they might damage the cams or clog up oil passages which is not good.
Valve cover only has 4 10mm nuts on top. Remove them, remove the spark plug wires, then gently pry the grommets under those nuts and then remove those too. Then gently pry the valve cover up and it should unseal itself. This can take some time but be gentle. Also make sure you have a new valve cover gasket on hand because you may or may not need to replace the existing one. I would though. Then clean out any particles you might see, then reverse the process to reinstall everything in order.
Best of luck!
Oh and also perform at least one oil and filter change after you're done cleaning stuff out. You want to run lots of clean oil through the engine to ensure nothing is left in there that can cause damage
How many liters of transmission carry those automatic boxes is bad if you go over the level of a 1994 toyota corolla and how much does it take to do the service to the box
It should say it in your owner's manual how much fluid it takes. I don't know how much a 94 automatic takes. There are also multiple options. There is a 3 speed, a 4 speed with no overdrive, and a 4 speed with overdrive. So it depends what you have. Do not go over the full mark. Level should be read with the engine running, transmission warmed up, in park or neutral, and the car on a flat leveled surface.
Hello thank you for this tutorial but I have a question I need to put back my harmonic balancer on my Toyota Corolla 1994 but any idea how much torque I need to tight the bolt on this harmonic balancer please help thank you.....
My Haynes manual says 87 ft. Lbs
@@AutoFixYT thank you so much appreciate it
lol I have this manual which page I can see this information??
@@EJ3.16 I found it in the specification page of the engine chapter
@@AutoFixYT okay thank you 🙏 very much
Very helpful thank you so much.
Thanks!
As of 5:00 pm today I just finished doing all three of these stupid belts, it was a huge pain in the ass my idler pulley was stuck and I rounded it out then I had to go buy bolt extractor set and then find a way to fit a socket in there “witch was very hard” finally got that off and the the stupid alternator bottom bolt took me a hour to get lined up with the other one, it took me 4 hours all together to do this
I can feel the pain, trust me. But I'm glad you got it all done!!
@@AutoFixYT me to! This video was a life saver my stupid Haynes repair guide had almost no information on how to do this
Hello, Is this procedure same on '96 celica 7AFE?
Yes, same exact procedure.
Do a video on how you put your fog lights in
I have upgraded to a light bar, so I don't have those anymore
I only have to remove the alternator if I only need a/c belt right ??
Correct.
Thank yoh
Question. At 22m. You said if it squeaks, tighten or loosen. I put on a new pull and belt for my ac and not matter what I do it squeaks, so annoying. What do I do to fix this
If you are sure you have the correct tension on the belt, make sure you didn't over tighten the pulley. Also make sure the belt didn't get any oils or grease on it. Other than that... maybe you can see where the squeak is coming from. Is it from the tensioner pulley, or is it from the AC compressor. Could be a bad bearing in the AC compressor.
great video.
I have a 97 Corolla with around 56k miles on it. When we first were gifted the car around 2 years into using it the engine literally blew up, we spent around 2k on getting it replaced. That was 3 years ago and the car has been fine and reliable.
But is there anyway of finding out how old the replacement engine is and how many miles it had been used?
Great questions. First of all, thanks for watching! Ok now to answer your questions. Finding out the mileage is impossible, unless you know what car it came from and look at the odometer. Having said that, you can definitely assess its condition. The most basic way of doing this is to run a simple compression test. Wet and dry. EricTheCarGuy has a video on how to do this and I'm sure there are many others on RUclips. That will tell you if all the cylinders are up to spec when it comes to compression. Low compression can be due to worn out piston rings or maybe the valves aren't seating properly against the head. Carbon buildup on the valves is not an issue for you because those engines are port fuel injection, not direct injection.
Another way you can go about doing this is to have an oil analysis done. ChrisFix has a great video on this called "What Does A 300k Mile Oil Change Look Like?". There he shows you how to take a sample from the oil, and how to read the results that come back from the lab. Those are the best two ways of assessing the engine health without disassembly.
My advice with these engines is to replace the oil often. Do it yourself to save money if you can! Fresh oil every 3k miles will guarantee that it will stay healthy. And make sure to keep it full if it burns oil. I have to top mine off every 1500 miles with a little less than a quart, and I change it every 3k miles.
I have personally seen engines that look old and beat up and burn tons of oil at just 70-80k miles, and engines that don't leak, don't burn a drop, and look good at over 230k miles! So mileage isn't always a key factor, especially when it comes to Toyotas.
So make sure you keep up on all the maintenance (fluids, parts, belts, etc) and it'll live happily for a very very long time!
@@AutoFixYT wow thanx so much i really appreciate all of that info.
subscribed! glad i found your channel.
Thanks, my pleasure!
If you do decide to get an oil analysis, make sure that you change the oil with the same exact one a few oil changes in a row, tat way additives and viscosities don't mix. I use Castrol GTX High Mileage - I have a video on changing the oil on the Corolla. Pick one and stick with it. If you are taking a sample of the oil, drive at least 2k miles if you can without topping it off. That way the oil gets a little "dirty" from being used and the results can be more accurate. If you can go 3k miles that would be optimal. I say this because I cannot personally go that far with my Corolla without having to top off the oil. Good luck!
Yeah thanks Bro, super Nice Yota too! Thanks for sharing ❤
Thanks!
12:30 Power steering belt
Yes.
33:54 what kind of exhaust do you have?
Muffler delete and a high flow cat
What tires are those?
Those were Riken Raptor tires. Great tires for the price! Highly recommended. I didn’t stick with them because they discontinued them in the size I needed them in.
Nice job Dude!👍
Thanks Andy!
Nicely Done!! Many Thanks!!
Thanks!
Can you please do a timing belt video, I need to do it on mine, can you remove the last belt you did without removing any of the other belts? That’s the only one of the theee I need to do
I already replaced my timing belt so I won't be making a video on it for a while, but maybe one day I will!
@@AutoFixYT can I replace the last belt without removing any other belt? I just need to do that one
No, you have to remove at least one of the other belts to get the power steering belt off
hi, may I know the size of the timing belt? thanks
I do not know the size of the timing belt, sorry!