7.3 Powerstroke Fuel Return Hose Replacement

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  • Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
  • Today we tackle the replacement of the rubber fuel return hoses that run from the cylinder heads to the fuel pressure regulator on our 1997 Powerstroke 7.3 liter.
    Fuel hoses purchased from RiffRaff Diesel Performance.
    Driver side hose:
    www.riffraffdi...
    Passenger side hose:
    www.riffraffdi...
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    oldschoolbell

Комментарии • 8

  • @chrisdavis566
    @chrisdavis566 8 месяцев назад +1

    Thank you for the to the point video!

  • @rick9811
    @rick9811 2 года назад +1

    Those 7.3's appear to be a joy to work on compared to my beloved 6.7! Granted, I love having a metric shit-ton of HP and TQ, (400+ & 800+) but I generally leave any repairs outside of Oil changes, to trained professionals that don't have a jacked up back. Keep it up Bro!

    • @rick9811
      @rick9811 2 года назад +1

      Plus, in my humble, uneducated opinion, the 7.3 and the 300 Six were and are some of the best, most reliable mills Ford has ever fielded.

  • @jamesrennick8192
    @jamesrennick8192 2 года назад +1

    Great video! Super helpful. Doing this on my 1995 F350.

  • @collinmalleck1581
    @collinmalleck1581 2 года назад

    Thanks for the video...had to do this myself

  • @backseatbroadcasting2356
    @backseatbroadcasting2356 Год назад

    What intercooler kit is that? Great video

  • @peetky8645
    @peetky8645 6 месяцев назад

    Hi. Bought crank no start 1995 F-superduty. Trying to understand the Fuel system. Is the FPR on the driver or passenger side of the fuel bowl? The graphic i saw showed Tank(vacuum) to LPFP -(low psi) -bowl - HPFP -heads -FPR - return line to tank. Graphic also showed a bowl air bleed passage (0,02) to filter screen (0.035) to FPR as well? I assume the tiny passages prevent back flow into the bowl and encourage return of unused heated fuel to the tank(anti-gel?). Would appreciate any tips or info. Thanks for your video.

    • @oldschoolautomotive2660
      @oldschoolautomotive2660  4 месяца назад +1

      The FPR is on the driver side of the fuel bowl. And yes, fuel is drawn under suction into the LPFP, which then pumps that fuel under low pressure into the bowl/filter housing. From there, it is pulled into the HPFP and pressure is boosted to 55+ PSI. From there, it goes into the heads at the rear, feeds the injectors, and any unused fuel returns through the FPR, and then back to the tank via a return line.
      Yes, there is also a filter screen with the original FPR, and I think you're right on how it works, but I chopped this part off and used the original FPR with my E-fuel conversion long ago, and I don't fully remember. (Google "tightwad mod" if you're interested in learning how I recycled my FPR this way).
      At any rate, your understanding of the fuel system so far is spot-on.
      There is a troubleshooting flowchart floating around the internet that is very helpful. But in a nutshell, you should determine that you have fuel flowing to the injectors at the proper PSI (spec is 55+, with 65+ being ideal, but it *will* run or at least kick with very little fuel pressure at the injectors; mine will run, albeit like crap, with zero fuel pressure). Once you have fuel, you need to make sure you have High Pressure Oil. Often disconnecting the IPR is a good way to troubleshoot, because when disconnected it will default to full pressure, so as long as your HPOP is good, your injectors will be getting the 2000-3000 psi of oil they need. The last part of the equation is firing the injectors, which is accomplished by the PCM/ECU and the CPS. When cranking, make sure your tach is registering RPM. If not, your CPS or ECU might be at fault. Regardless, if the tach isn't moving, it WILL NOT fire the injectors. Also, make sure the starting system is in good shape, as the ECU won't even attempt to fire the injectors until at least 300-500 RPM. If it's cranking slow, there's no use in wasting your time until you fix the slow crank issue.