Thanks for the step by step as well as the OEM parts store online. 20 minutes start to finish , works perfectly (2* difference to calibrated temp device). Thanks again!
I followed this video and replaced my sensor. It worked Great! You do need to access from the back but using a long screw driver to tape the sensor wire to and pull through the hole is necessary. The back on my wb20k10027 came off with 4 screws. My oven door would not detach easily so I did the work with the door in place. Simple ! Don't be afraid to try it.
I adjusted our oven the same way using a fluke digital K coupler and even though it throttled right in the sweet spot we found the bake time on most recipes to be too short. Older ovens had a much wider temperature variation (span) than the new digital ovens have and most would not allow oven to drop far below the set point. So, older ovens might throttle say 345 - 370 when set at 350. Because of this a lot of directions error on the side of safety so temperature and run times may be low for todays ovens. With that said, we found bumping out calibration up 15 degrees solved a multitude of bake and wait situations. Personally I prefer an oven to be on the hot side and learn your appliances quirks from there. Helped the cookie baking immensely.
Exactly my situation too. Also had to detach the bad sensor from the back and pulling out from inside. Then push the new connector through from inside taped to a poker of some kind. Now if only Dad would get his head out of the way from blocking the critical shots! But nonetheless an excellent explanation and video.
Hiya! The tip of the probe should not be touching the shelves. Just leave it hanging in mid-air. Here’s the link. Good luck! www.thermoworks.com/ChefAlarm
Changing the sensor (not to OEM) may be our problem. The oven quickly goes to 450 to 475 degrees but wait 15 to 20 minutes and it will drop down to the needed temperature. Would an OEM sensor fix this?
Hello! I have replaced the sensor in my GE oven. My baking temperatures, tested with Thermoworks Chef Alarm, is really inconsistent! I'm wondering what else I can do or if it is worth it? When the range "pings" that the oven is ready, temperature set at 370°, the actual temperature is 312°. It drops temperature before reaching 350° and sort of yoyo's between 328 and 385. Is that something that is fixable? Thank you!
Hey I have an older ge electric oven, model jbp76gs3ww. We did a self clean that killed the oven, door locked/no display lights, but the stove tops still work. From online videos this is likely from a 'thermostat fuse/thermal fuse'. In taking off the back, and lifting the top to look under the stove tops - I see nothing that looks like a fuse. The back of the thermostat/main oven knob is a circuit board with components screwed to a larger green circuit board - but nothing that resembles a fuse. I saw another video on a newer model of a thermostat fuse being circular - looking like the oven light in the back - but I'm pretty sure its just the oven light socket - unless there's a fuse built into the bottom of the light socket. Is this temperature sensor what I'm looking for? If this blows in an oven clean, would that result in a door lock/no display lights/ but stove tops still working. I've been looking for a 'fuse' - but technically a fuse is just a resistor I guess, could be this sensor - just something where when it goes past its limits would break - where the wiring would then shutdown display lights and functions etc. Thankd for your time, any help would be greatly appreciated. Google searches, online owners manuals etc.- nothing has a clear indication of what this 'fuse' looks like, nor where its located. I'm not even 100% on that's what the problem is, but a lot of videos describe the same problem with that being the cause.
Hi Michael. Disclaimer first, I'm no appliance technician, just an over zealous homeowner who likes to fix his own stuff :-) That said, I looked at the schematics for your appliance an also don't see a thermal fuse. That doesn't mean it doesn't have one, just not listed. I agree that a failure of this nature (high heat or high current related) is a likely cause. Especially when it happened during the self cleaning process which makes alot of heat and also makes a high electrical current draw for an extended time. I also don't think that an oven temperature sensor failure would cause the whole appliance to go dark and not function. If there is some sort of thermal fuse, they are often located right where the main power comes into the back of the oven. So unplug it and follow the cord and inspect the area where it connects inside the oven. Thermal fuses often look like a copper wire wrapped in a woven cloth looking cover. While you are in this area, carefully inspect the "Terminal Block". (#272 on the parts diagram). It's a black piece of plastic with red, black and white power wires connected to it. This may have overheated and melted the main power connection. You can find the part on the appliance parts pros website by searching your model number and clicking on 02-Section2 diagram. If RUclips allows, the link is : www.appliancepartspros.com/section-2-parts-for-ge-jbp76gs2.html Aside from this, I'm out of ideas. You may need to call a pro for this, or maybe because of the appliance age consider replacing it (gasp! did I say that!). Take care and I hope 2021 brings good things to you and yours.
@@jskidpatrol thanks so much. :) This helps greatly. I used to be an electrical apprentice, and the stove tops - hot indication lights for the stove tops - and that all still works, just not the main control display and oven. It'd because of this, and I glance at the wire connection with no residue, that I was thinking the electrical was fine. But I was looking for a normal pill shaped fuse, or saw circular ones online, but I wasn't looking for a copper wire coil wrapped type thing, so maybe its there. The schematic is greatly appreciated, I couldn't find it or if I did it didn't include fuse/electrical components. Another guy said there is a fuse, but they discontinued making it, but I'm thinking maybe eBay or the parts warehouse near here has an old one sitting on the shelf. We'll likely need a new stove, but it was finding the fuse/part itself that was bugging me so thanks. :)
I am ordering the GE thermostat sensor for my oven. However, the oven completely shuts off before reaching my temperature. Would that be the control panel instead of the sensor?
I replaced the sensor (thanks to your video) but my temperature is about 100° off when it is preheated. If I adjust the temperature and wait it does get to where I need it. (It does stay at that temperature once adjusted) will calibration help or does it sound like thermostat?
Wow, 100 is a loooong way off. The only thing left is to adjust your oven’s offset control like I did in the video. You will need to view your owners manual to see how to do this. And then adjust it up or down by 100 degrees (if it will let you go that far) to match your actual oven temp. If that doesn’t fix the issue then you likely will need a new control board. Sorry it wasn’t an easy fix :-(
The temperature is about 100° off when the preheat chimes. If I let it go longer to preheat and turn up the temperature up about 50-60° it will stay at the temp I want. Could this be the thermostat needing to be replaced since the sensor didn't do the trick. trying to avoid calling for service. Thank you!
Hi. My bake temperature # will starts. Its at 100 and the temperature still not moving. O order a new one but it's still not working. There is a very small circle ⭕️ that sit at the top of the temperature but not when I turn the top over on. Could it be the bake element? I do hear a click when I press the bake setting. Ot show up the last temperature when I use it like 375 then I press start and it go back down to 100. Help please.
When I tested by pushing both the bake and broil and held for 5 seconds, nothing happened. I tried this process several times to no avail. What now? Thanks!
Please help me. My Oven shows excess of heat and fluctuations in temperature..for example I set it to 180 degree the temperature reaches 210 during preheating. Then during baking time it shows decrease in Temperature to 190 degree and then increase in temperature going upto 240 degree. The company person has changed the oven thermostat 3 times but the problem is still same. I don't know what to do I am really tired!.
Hi There ! I'm no expert, but most ovens will fluctuate after reaching what they think is the set temperature and also while cooking. Some ovens are better at this than others. If you have an old oven, or worse yet an old gas oven, then your temperature change could be really quite wide as you have noted. That said, and my thinking about your situation is that 180 degrees is not really a "cooking" temperature, but rather a warming oven temperature. By design, your oven may perform better when it's set at an actual cooking temperature, the low side of which would be about 250 degrees, and more commonly 350 and above. Perhaps your oven will work better when you are set at 350, and at typical baking temps. The result may be that your oven works pretty well at normal temperatures, but is not very good at holding a warming oven temperature. Also, make sure you are using a known good thermometer to check your temperatures. Those grocery store deals are notoriously inaccurate. And lastly, if your oven is still performing poorly at higher temps as measured with a good thermometer, the only thing left to replace is the control board that the oven's temp sensor is talking to. Good luck !
Hiya Cody. I used to have an old Gaffers & Sattler stove and you could adjust the internal temperature by pulling off the oven temp dial and turning a little screw inside there. Maybe yours is like this ? It’s not possible for me to say but you likely can adjust it somehow. Good luck!
Thats what mines doing found a broken wire fixed it elements came on for bit then appears to heat up only slightly bottom lid is cold now too one looks like it works out new element also the first time I notice this so temp sensor is what I'm going after next lol except mines electric not gas so il watch anyway see if it's similar or not cheers 👍
Hi Kathleen. 30 minutes to preheat an oven does sound very extreme indeed. I’ve never had an oven or heard of one that would take more than about 10 to maybe 15 minutes to get to the set temperature. You can verify it yourself by putting a small oven thermometer inside and confirm for yourself how long it takes and if the temperature matches your oven thermometer. But do beware that some of the cheap portable thermometers can be inaccurate. But if they are fairly close then you’re good. Good luck!
Hi Lorraine. With any luck you will be able to remove your sensor from the inside of the oven. If not, yours will also have to be pulled out to access the rear. This is of course more difficult and something you may not want to tackle yourself. Good Luck !
![Natanael Cano x Nueva H - Amapola [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6Q4mnRD5jCw/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the step by step as well as the OEM parts store online. 20 minutes start to finish , works perfectly (2* difference to calibrated temp device). Thanks again!
I followed this video and replaced my sensor. It worked Great! You do need to access from the back but using a long screw driver to tape the sensor wire to and pull through the hole is necessary. The back on my wb20k10027 came off with 4 screws. My oven door would not detach easily so I did the work with the door in place. Simple ! Don't be afraid to try it.
I adjusted our oven the same way using a fluke digital K coupler and even though it throttled right in the sweet spot we found the bake time on most recipes to be too short. Older ovens had a much wider temperature variation (span) than the new digital ovens have and most would not allow oven to drop far below the set point. So, older ovens might throttle say 345 - 370 when set at 350. Because of this a lot of directions error on the side of safety so temperature and run times may be low for todays ovens. With that said, we found bumping out calibration up 15 degrees solved a multitude of bake and wait situations. Personally I prefer an oven to be on the hot side and learn your appliances quirks from there. Helped the cookie baking immensely.
Great info and very good to know. Thanks !
Exactly my situation too. Also had to detach the bad sensor from the back and pulling out from inside. Then push the new connector through from inside taped to a poker of some kind. Now if only Dad would get his head out of the way from blocking the critical shots! But nonetheless an excellent explanation and video.
Thanks Richard. This made me laugh :-)
Very good job with this. I am sure you will inspire others to do it themselves.
Thank you so much! I loved being able to fix my mother's oven for her!
Can you link the thermoworks monitor you used. And does it matter if the probe is touching the metal? Thank you for the video.
Hiya! The tip of the probe should not be touching the shelves. Just leave it hanging in mid-air. Here’s the link. Good luck!
www.thermoworks.com/ChefAlarm
Do you have a video demonstrating replacing oven door hinge ?
Changing the sensor (not to OEM) may be our problem. The oven quickly goes to 450 to 475 degrees but wait 15 to 20 minutes and it will drop down to the needed temperature. Would an OEM sensor fix this?
Thanks for sharing this. My wife and I couldn't cook Christmas turkey right and I was scratching my head as to why. Turns out this was our issue
Right on Clay! I'm so glad you were helped by this, and sorry about the bird :-(
Yeah same here. Finding such problems when you are the host is a nightmare.
Hello! I have replaced the sensor in my GE oven. My baking temperatures, tested with Thermoworks Chef Alarm, is really inconsistent! I'm wondering what else I can do or if it is worth it? When the range "pings" that the oven is ready, temperature set at 370°, the actual temperature is 312°. It drops temperature before reaching 350° and sort of yoyo's between 328 and 385. Is that something that is fixable? Thank you!
Hey I have an older ge electric oven, model jbp76gs3ww.
We did a self clean that killed the oven, door locked/no display lights, but the stove tops still work.
From online videos this is likely from a 'thermostat fuse/thermal fuse'.
In taking off the back, and lifting the top to look under the stove tops - I see nothing that looks like a fuse.
The back of the thermostat/main oven knob is a circuit board with components screwed to a larger green circuit board - but nothing that resembles a fuse.
I saw another video on a newer model of a thermostat fuse being circular - looking like the oven light in the back - but I'm pretty sure its just the oven light socket - unless there's a fuse built into the bottom of the light socket.
Is this temperature sensor what I'm looking for?
If this blows in an oven clean, would that result in a door lock/no display lights/ but stove tops still working.
I've been looking for a 'fuse' - but technically a fuse is just a resistor I guess, could be this sensor - just something where when it goes past its limits would break - where the wiring would then shutdown display lights and functions etc.
Thankd for your time, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Google searches, online owners manuals etc.- nothing has a clear indication of what this 'fuse' looks like, nor where its located.
I'm not even 100% on that's what the problem is, but a lot of videos describe the same problem with that being the cause.
Hi Michael. Disclaimer first, I'm no appliance technician, just an over zealous homeowner who likes to fix his own stuff :-)
That said, I looked at the schematics for your appliance an also don't see a thermal fuse. That doesn't mean it doesn't have one, just not listed.
I agree that a failure of this nature (high heat or high current related) is a likely cause. Especially when it happened during the self cleaning process which makes alot of heat and also makes a high electrical current draw for an extended time.
I also don't think that an oven temperature sensor failure would cause the whole appliance to go dark and not function.
If there is some sort of thermal fuse, they are often located right where the main power comes into the back of the oven. So unplug it and follow the cord and inspect the area where it connects inside the oven. Thermal fuses often look like a copper wire wrapped in a woven cloth looking cover.
While you are in this area, carefully inspect the "Terminal Block". (#272 on the parts diagram). It's a black piece of plastic with red, black and white power wires connected to it. This may have overheated and melted the main power connection. You can find the part on the appliance parts pros website by searching your model number and clicking on 02-Section2 diagram. If RUclips allows, the link is : www.appliancepartspros.com/section-2-parts-for-ge-jbp76gs2.html
Aside from this, I'm out of ideas. You may need to call a pro for this, or maybe because of the appliance age consider replacing it (gasp! did I say that!).
Take care and I hope 2021 brings good things to you and yours.
@@jskidpatrol thanks so much. :)
This helps greatly.
I used to be an electrical apprentice, and the stove tops - hot indication lights for the stove tops - and that all still works, just not the main control display and oven.
It'd because of this, and I glance at the wire connection with no residue, that I was thinking the electrical was fine.
But I was looking for a normal pill shaped fuse, or saw circular ones online, but I wasn't looking for a copper wire coil wrapped type thing, so maybe its there.
The schematic is greatly appreciated, I couldn't find it or if I did it didn't include fuse/electrical components.
Another guy said there is a fuse, but they discontinued making it, but I'm thinking maybe eBay or the parts warehouse near here has an old one sitting on the shelf.
We'll likely need a new stove, but it was finding the fuse/part itself that was bugging me so thanks. :)
I am ordering the GE thermostat sensor for my oven. However, the oven completely shuts off before reaching my temperature. Would that be the control panel instead of the sensor?
I replaced the sensor (thanks to your video) but my temperature is about 100° off when it is preheated. If I adjust the temperature and wait it does get to where I need it. (It does stay at that temperature once adjusted) will calibration help or does it sound like thermostat?
Wow, 100 is a loooong way off. The only thing left is to adjust your oven’s offset control like I did in the video. You will need to view your owners manual to see how to do this. And then adjust it up or down by 100 degrees (if it will let you go that far) to match your actual oven temp.
If that doesn’t fix the issue then you likely will need a new control board.
Sorry it wasn’t an easy fix :-(
The temperature is about 100° off when the preheat chimes. If I let it go longer to preheat and turn up the temperature up about 50-60° it will stay at the temp I want. Could this be the thermostat needing to be replaced since the sensor didn't do the trick. trying to avoid calling for service. Thank you!
Hi. My bake temperature # will starts. Its at 100 and the temperature still not moving. O order a new one but it's still not working. There is a very small circle ⭕️ that sit at the top of the temperature but not when I turn the top over on. Could it be the bake element? I do hear a click when I press the bake setting. Ot show up the last temperature when I use it like 375 then I press start and it go back down to 100. Help please.
My oven runs about 100 degrees below setting. I wonder if it's something more than sensor.
The oven in this video was also running 100 degrees low and was fixed with the new sensor.
When I tested by pushing both the bake and broil and held for 5 seconds, nothing happened. I tried this process several times to no avail. What now? Thanks!
Please help me. My Oven shows excess of heat and fluctuations in temperature..for example I set it to 180 degree the temperature reaches 210 during preheating. Then during baking time it shows decrease in Temperature to 190 degree and then increase in temperature going upto 240 degree. The company person has changed the oven thermostat 3 times but the problem is still same. I don't know what to do I am really tired!.
Hi There ! I'm no expert, but most ovens will fluctuate after reaching what they think is the set temperature and also while cooking. Some ovens are better at this than others. If you have an old oven, or worse yet an old gas oven, then your temperature change could be really quite wide as you have noted.
That said, and my thinking about your situation is that 180 degrees is not really a "cooking" temperature, but rather a warming oven temperature. By design, your oven may perform better when it's set at an actual cooking temperature, the low side of which would be about 250 degrees, and more commonly 350 and above.
Perhaps your oven will work better when you are set at 350, and at typical baking temps. The result may be that your oven works pretty well at normal temperatures, but is not very good at holding a warming oven temperature.
Also, make sure you are using a known good thermometer to check your temperatures. Those grocery store deals are notoriously inaccurate.
And lastly, if your oven is still performing poorly at higher temps as measured with a good thermometer, the only thing left to replace is the control board that the oven's temp sensor is talking to.
Good luck !
I have a really old stove. Can that type be calibrated?
Hiya Cody. I used to have an old Gaffers & Sattler stove and you could adjust the internal temperature by pulling off the oven temp dial and turning a little screw inside there. Maybe yours is like this ? It’s not possible for me to say but you likely can adjust it somehow. Good luck!
Thank you! I really need this right now. My oven is doing the exact same thing but it's electric.
You’re welcome. Good luck with the repair!
My hotpoint surface and oven are not getting enough heat and the surface doesn’t glow anymore please help
Thats what mines doing found a broken wire fixed it elements came on for bit then appears to heat up only slightly bottom lid is cold now too one looks like it works out new element also the first time I notice this so temp sensor is what I'm going after next lol except mines electric not gas so il watch anyway see if it's similar or not cheers 👍
I am seeing a LOT of same valued probes with different prices. Any thoughts on this?
Get the GE OEM. Why risk for a few bucks?
had a repair person tell me I had to pre heat the oven for 30 minutes after it beepedso the temp could be established. too Extreme??
Hi Kathleen. 30 minutes to preheat an oven does sound very extreme indeed. I’ve never had an oven or heard of one that would take more than about 10 to maybe 15 minutes to get to the set temperature.
You can verify it yourself by putting a small oven thermometer inside and confirm for yourself how long it takes and if the temperature matches your oven thermometer. But do beware that some of the cheap portable thermometers can be inaccurate. But if they are fairly close then you’re good. Good luck!
So interesting. I'm inspired as always!!😁😁😁
Revel Pabon thanks !
what if you have a wall double oven
Hi Lorraine. With any luck you will be able to remove your sensor from the inside of the oven. If not, yours will also have to be pulled out to access the rear. This is of course more difficult and something you may not want to tackle yourself. Good Luck !
Dad needs to move his head so I can see
To be safe I’d probably tell folks to unplug or shut off the breaker before digging around with wires behind the back cover.
Old man's head in front of camera please move LOL
Sorry but tin snips and some relief cut on that metal but now i see there wasnt enough slack pull it anyway
I probably need to make this exact repair, so I appreciate the video. HOWEVER, Dad's head is blocking the view part of the time. That is NOT helpful!
Dad, of course, is standing right in front of the camera so I can't see what I need to see. Dads...oy.
I love them, I love watching this stuff., but ya wouldn't want me trying tis at home. LOL.
Good 👍
& what if it’s a built-in.... I can’t just pull it out. Guess I’m in for the $300 repair 😖
Get rid of the dirty tennis shoes
One of many repair videos nothing new here.