Roping Up For Glaciers
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- A practical demonstration of roping up for glacier travel taken from the Mountaineering Council of Scotland's Alpine Essentials DVD.
Full DVD available here: www.mcofs.org.u...
Join the MCofS here: www.mcofs.org.u...
Best demonstration I've seen of roping up for glacier travels
This video is amazing.
This is a superb video!
I teach this topic, and have been looking for material of this quality on youtube for a long time. While your technique is a bit different than mine, I like how yours is clearly well thought out, explained and justified.
Thanks for very much for posting this.
John
Portland Oregon USA
Absolutely BRILLIANT! Thanks a lot for making this available!
A really good explanation and video example of tying in for glacier travel. Good demo voice too....excellent all round instructional vid!
I'm actually a beginner, so this video is very helpful for me.
Thanks for posting!!
The prussic on the 'live' rope to your partner deals with the issue of having the coils up high, it also allows you to safely shorten the rope . You simply slide the prussic to shorten the gap and carry the coils without any chance that a load will come onto the spare coils in your hand. Possibly more of a faff to setup at the start hut very versatile in practice ( all IMHO of course )
thank you. years since i had to use those, so this helped me to remember.
Great informational video!
I'm talking about putting your carabiner through a bolt hanger in the wall. That's the metal on metal I was thinking of, and the knife blade being the edges of the hanger. Carabiners are designed to handle significant loads in a sport climbing situation. The loading in crevasse scenarios is much lower.
Superb,,,,,,,,,, practiced, then used this technique in the Alps
TKS for lesson..Go to my first glacier next year
Great job.
Although, I was taught to leave the extra coils more accessible than this method and to not involve them in any harnessing activity. There is something a bit worrisome about having coiled rope around my neck. I have always used a simple webbing chest harness instead of rope.
Is all this necessary just to be able to get up right should you fall up side down? Some simple questions remain unanswered to me: How can you quickly release the chest coils if your companion falls in a crevasse? How can you quickly escape from the system?
@Rocker21113043 I'm not that experience in Mt Cimbing but I believe you would use a 3 to 1 system to pull your buddy out. A 1 to 1 is hard but 3 to 1 is a little easy on you but may take time (you pull 3 ft, buddy moves 1 foot). Is all of this really needed? Yes, if you fall in, you may have to self rescue your self by using 2 or 3 Prusiks if your buddy cannot pull you out.
Yup, and then you have to self arrest and make an anchor. It MUST be tied at your waist. If said fall is high up top by your chest, its impossible to self arrest as the force keeps pulling you sideways. The only reason you have a chest harness pretied to right yourself AFTER you fall in. Its just as likely that even with a rope through your chest harness that you will fall in head first. Majority of crevasses are very narrow and therefore you get wedged in.
Is it common to have the person in the back use the setup he showed second and the person in front use the first setup he used? That way the first person doesn't have to act to keep themselves upright if they fall, and the second person is better able to support the fall? I assume you would be walking single file so the person in front would be most likely to fall
Yep
You don't know who is going to fall in slot.... climber from behind might - has happened.
A knut friction knot is worth considering.
Would you climb solo on a glacier mountain?
Thank you for taking the time to present this technique. I am curious if you have considered using a purcell prusik in lieu of the extra carabiner and french prusik. Would that not allow for adjustability in this system while simplifying it?
Muchas gracias por el video. Me ha resultado muy instruccivo.
I thought prusik should never be taking the load from a fall.
I know there are hundreds of ways to rope up for glacier travel, but I just don't like this system.
1.In my opinion, I think the whole process over complicated.
2. Metal on metal is always a bad idea.
3. Accidentally unclip the snaplink when you are holding a fall, and you are back to being dragged head first into the crevasse by your chest loops.
4. He isn't using a second prussik which is very handy when it comes to building your rescue anchor under load.
What's a glaceea?
No, you're mistaken, I believe it's a glass seer
Again sorry for my ignorance but when I'm on a crag I have for krabs in my anchor, two at the anchor points and two to hold the climbing rope, no metal on metal.
What do you mean almost knife blade?
Super!!!
isn't letting the rope slide at the "chest" contact during a shock-load bad?
Forgive my noobidity but isn't there a problem with having metal on metal, i.e. the two crabs. Never mind it's a wire gate and screw.
you use metal on metal every time you build an anchor at the crag. And the anchors are almost knife blade.
I think you'll find this bloke is a UIAA BMG Mountain Guide which is the equivalent of ACMG. Do your homework before you comment.
kiwi coil. job done
Kellogs, Actually I don't know what I am talking about, And if someone falls in a hole and that is how he is rigged, then Yes, he will be belaying near his chest. So what if he is BMG certified. Not every guide is solid, they may have passed exams moons ago but things have changed and there are a ton of shitty guides out their that are fully qualified UIAGM/IFMGA mountain guides. It's doesn't make what he is teaching right. Some of the sketchiest guiding I see in my zone are BMG guides.
This guy is gonna get worked if a fall is put on that system. The coils are tied way to high and the are too small. The force is up near his chest which will pull him forward and off his stance. The coils need to be bigger and his tie off needs to be down near his harness tie in if he wants to use this method. Super dangerous to have the coils tied up that high. If you don't believe me then why don't you try belaying someone with the device up near your chest instead of off your belay loop.