Just want to say a big thank you for this video. I watched it the week before I climbed great end via cust gully. I was 10 metres from the top then the snow gave way. And I fell two thirds of the way down. I thought I wasn't going to stop. Very scary. But believed in the technique. Thanks again. My climb was in Feb 2020.
Never been on a mountain outside of the Ozarks but planning my first trip now. Cut and clear videos of lifesaving skills like this are critical. Thanks for it.
This video saved my life. I was skydiving with my friends and both of my parachutes failed, so I used this technique and eventually stopped on the ground.
@@lindsaybc2192 @mahma1067 Hey guys, noticed replies just now.Ast the matter of fact I have managed to achieve a lot of my personal goals. Mostly climbing mountains from 2-3000 meters high, in all seasons. Finished course for alpinism , both winter and summer climbing dry rock, but havent reached for some goals and routes. I hvae clomber more than 100 peaks, did few summer sky races (D +2200, 22.5km), seen some cool places in Alps Italian and Slovenian , Prokletije Mountains in Montenegro and Albania and other places alike on Balkans and Eastern Europe. .Mostly higher grade mountaineering, which was my aim. Thx again for asking and wish you all the health and luck!
GREAT video. Informative, to the point, and obviously a seasoned expert... This will be required viewing for my mountaineering wife who is to be receiving a Petzl Glacier 60 for Christmas. Thanks so much!
Good skills! 0:48 I wish someone had told our Royal Marine Mountain Leader instructor that in 1987. There was a decidedly steep drop-off of a couple of hundred feet of you didn't get the ice axe arrest right first time. A hell of an incentive!
Another +1 thanks for this video. It probably saved my life a few days ago climbing Middle Teton. I slipped coming down the couloir with my cramp-ons still on. Fell a long way and luckily missed all the rocks before I was eventually able to arrest.
Thank you thank you thank you! The slow motion was excellent! I have watched this a dozen times and your instruction is so wonderful! Now I know how to use my ax!
The theory is great and training is never wasted but... This has happened to me twice: 1. Disorientation traversing slope in a bad weather and white-out and 2. Avalanched from gully by a collapsed cornice (best part of 1000' in total including a 30 foot step out of the gully to the slope) - what a cruncher!. Real situations are not much like braking on snow on nursery slopes and I must say that the acceleration and sheer speed are what you need to be prepared for. The first time braking helped but I was so disoriented - I stopped eventually and climbed back up to my traverse line. The second time I tried but the pick snatched out and it was really very hard to get my weight on the pick. In the end I ended up using the brim of my fibreglass helmet as the brake and that was suprisingly effective.
I've never hiked up a snowy mountain in my life and the closest is 17 hours drive.... but when I saw the video pop up I figured I shouldn't take any chances. I'm gonna have all the moves at the next slip-n-slide.
This is awesome. We just hiked to Everest Base Camp, and it peaked my interest in more technical climbing. Not sure where I can practice this in Pittsburgh PA (it rarely snows here anymore even in the winter), but I'm going to research! :)
I tried to climb a very popular mountain in my country called Chimborazo, we had a fell, the guide died, was a horrible experience than I'm getting better day by day, if I had saw this video a month ago, another will be the history, thank you !!
I'm picturing what you went through and I'm so sorry my friend.. I've been wanting so badly to come back to Ecuador to climb Chimborazo. I hope this hasn't discouraged you from climbing again.
I don’t plan on mountaineering yet in my life, but while skiing I almost fell off the face of the mountain, from now on I plan to get an axe so I won’t have to worry about that so much
This saved my life once, while climbing a Fourteener in Colorado (Wilson Peak, near Telluride). Without the ice axe I would've plummeted down a 1500 foot snowfield into a big pile of jagged rocks
strangely enough the axe spike, spade and the spike on the handle are not sharp at all on the two I have just bought, is that normal? there is no way any of them would ever go through skin
I just want to know where do the mountaineers take their training while coming to climb mountains in Pakistan? And what tools play the most important role beside oxygen erc,, Rope or crampons?
Litterally never seen more than one inch of snow in my life and probably will never need to use this but this tutorial seemed great and I guess I know now!
Not if you don't want to risk damaging your ankles putting you out of action for a good amount of time, and perhaps even causing long term damage, stopping you from achieving what you were training for in the first place
Thanks for the video. As we go to the TGO we will be careful. We will not be bringing crampons or axes as we will take low routes. It is good to know at least though. What would you do if you had no axe? Roll on belly I suppose.
Yeah trekking pole is probably your next best option. If you're not wearing crampons you can try kicking your toes in, on really soft snow that might work, but you're probably screwed. If you are wearing crampons, you might decide that braking your ankles is better than sliding off the mountain and giving that a try.. Short answer, be prepared with the appropriate equipment and skills for your environment, if you need an ice ax bring an ice ax.
Turn on your back and dig your heels with crampons in and hope you don't tumble... or quickly grab your knife and stab it in the ice horizontally... Actually saw a person who did just that. Luckily, there were no trees nor rocks to cause serious injury. But they were cut up and bruised pretty bad... The good news is they walked away from it and I think they got their ice axe back.
We did this with crampons on at your winter skills course in 2010 with lots of emphasis on keeping your crampons up. IIRC keeping your crampons out of contact with the ground was one of the things we were trying to learn by practising with them on. It makes sense to me that you would want to find out that your feet need to come up during training on a modest slope rather than at that instant of entering a cartwheel when trying to employee these techniques for real for the first time. Did you find that an unacceptable number of injuries were happening when you did the training with crampons on and were forced to switch?
Can you elaborate why having crampons on might cause injury? I'm new to climbing and have never been ice climbing, but my understanding is that crampons are like ice climbing cleats. Wouldn't that be helpful in self arresting?
You can reach extremely high speeds. You're basically a human bobsled. If you stick your crampons in the snow at such speeds you will snap your ankles and begin cartwheeling.
Good to know the mentioned techniques, however it's clearly visible that Mark also uses the spike for arresting (sometimes the pick doesn't even touch the ice) and he's also driving his elbow into the snow. It's not always possible to do those, but they seem useful for him in these clips.
Well I'm honestly not sure we're watching the same video, the spike may have contributed incidentally, but just from how much ice that pick is throwing it's clear he's using the pick, and his elbow is not doing the stopping, his elbow is a fulcrum to put as much force on that pick as possible. Are you talking about the part where he is spinning from headfirst? Because he explains how and why he picks up the pick during that section. Or maybe I've missed something, but I've looked a couple times now after seeing your comment, and I'm just not seeing it.
thank for video.a lot.i just think hillay step or bottleneck.many climber are over,exausted.from 7/8000meter and 15/20kg rucksac,is hard to made this.but not all case.thank
Dont worry, this is instinctive. It happend to me, 1 st time on ice, on a very steep glacier. Without thinking and never be taught, that is exactly what you do. And honestly it is quite fun. I was afraid only later, when i was told there were big crevasse very close of where i stopped, after 200 meters of slide.
Learning all this stuff yourself is more fun and fullfilling. Forget these do-good "guides" and "experts" at Glenmore , most are inexperienced Englishers barely in their 20s.
I think you should try and stop the slide with everything you have including the axe and the crampons. He talks about hurting your ankle in you use the crampons, well.. I rather hurt my ankle than fall down to my death.
Still too risky snapping your ankles/picking your lower legs. Next to that bloody and hurtful risk, you'll most likely circle violently around your feet, loosing last bit of potential control. I've tried this, and the most surprising part wasn't the lightning fast fall, but the merciless momentum gained in no time ...
As I'm still a novice, if I were to be sliding face down, head first could I not use my crampon toe-point to arrest my slide while they were uphill of me. Just getting into crampon use with 10 points and would like to know before I need to know.
SMOBY44 in you're scenario, front toe points wouldn't help u at all on a steep slope facing forward... u would just go sliding all they down. Use your ice axe to self arrest regardless of you're position. crampons do more harm then good when it comes to self arrest.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
The technique you taught saved me two years ago on Mt Shasta. And I was able to make summit. Thank you.
If you don't mind may I hear the story?
Let’s hear the story
@@Lo-wy2iw He slipped and self-arrested. There you go.
Wow it really is the most summitted mountain. Apparently even Jesus has been to the top.
I thought Jesus could walk on water or anything... so no need for ice axe...
The technique you taught saved me two years ago in the kitchen. And I was able to make it to the fridge. Thank you
lmao, shout out to that other guy for being able to summit though
Lmao I started reading your comment and thought "oh the devil's kitchen on Mt. Hood, bad place to fall" then I kept reading 😂
@@jarnold1789 same lol
Thank you for your service.
Ong
Just want to say a big thank you for this video. I watched it the week before I climbed great end via cust gully. I was 10 metres from the top then the snow gave way. And I fell two thirds of the way down. I thought I wasn't going to stop. Very scary. But believed in the technique. Thanks again. My climb was in Feb 2020.
Never been on a mountain outside of the Ozarks but planning my first trip now. Cut and clear videos of lifesaving skills like this are critical. Thanks for it.
This video saved my life. I was skydiving with my friends and both of my parachutes failed, so I used this technique and eventually stopped on the ground.
Incredible. Very few people have been able to successfully pull off that maneuver
Thank you so much for these lessons...I am absolute mountaineering begginer and they are really really valuable for me...Keep up doing the great work.
how ya doing now?
@Blackie78kg Hey! How are you doing now? Did you become an expert mountaineer within the past decade?
@@lindsaybc2192 @mahma1067 Hey guys, noticed replies just now.Ast the matter of fact I have managed to achieve a lot of my personal goals. Mostly climbing mountains from 2-3000 meters high, in all seasons. Finished course for alpinism , both winter and summer climbing dry rock, but havent reached for some goals and routes. I hvae clomber more than 100 peaks, did few summer sky races (D +2200, 22.5km), seen some cool places in Alps Italian and Slovenian , Prokletije Mountains in Montenegro and Albania and other places alike on Balkans and Eastern Europe. .Mostly higher grade mountaineering, which was my aim. Thx again for asking and wish you all the health and luck!
GREAT video. Informative, to the point, and obviously a seasoned expert... This will be required viewing for my mountaineering wife who is to be receiving a Petzl Glacier 60 for Christmas. Thanks so much!
It doesn't even snow in my city but still it's 4 AM and I like to watch survival tip videos.
Good skills! 0:48 I wish someone had told our Royal Marine Mountain Leader instructor that in 1987. There was a decidedly steep drop-off of a couple of hundred feet of you didn't get the ice axe arrest right first time. A hell of an incentive!
This video saved me after slipping down a very steep slope on Iztaccihuatl in Mexico. Thank you!!!!
Another +1 thanks for this video. It probably saved my life a few days ago climbing Middle Teton. I slipped coming down the couloir with my cramp-ons still on. Fell a long way and luckily missed all the rocks before I was eventually able to arrest.
Thank you thank you thank you! The slow motion was excellent! I have watched this a dozen times and your instruction is so wonderful! Now I know how to use my ax!
The theory is great and training is never wasted but... This has happened to me twice: 1. Disorientation traversing slope in a bad weather and white-out and 2. Avalanched from gully by a collapsed cornice (best part of 1000' in total including a 30 foot step out of the gully to the slope) - what a cruncher!.
Real situations are not much like braking on snow on nursery slopes and I must say that the acceleration and sheer speed are what you need to be prepared for. The first time braking helped but I was so disoriented - I stopped eventually and climbed back up to my traverse line. The second time I tried but the pick snatched out and it was really very hard to get my weight on the pick. In the end I ended up using the brim of my fibreglass helmet as the brake and that was suprisingly effective.
Great video instruction. The slow mo is very helpful!!
I'm so grateful for this video. This just saved my girlfriend and me in Mount Fuji. Thank you so much!!
I feel like this is one of those videos that legitimately saved peoples lives.
This video saved my life this past weekend at Mt Adams, thank you so much!
Best videos on the subject. Thank you and keep posting!
I've never hiked up a snowy mountain in my life and the closest is 17 hours drive.... but when I saw the video pop up I figured I shouldn't take any chances. I'm gonna have all the moves at the next slip-n-slide.
RUclips: Wanna learn how to stop yourself from sliding on ice with an ice axe?
Me: I never hike on snow...
RUclips: So you wanna?
Me: ok...
Your videos are great. I will practice this until I can do it as smoothly as you.
Always worth practising until you have it nailed, you never know when it might save your life
This is awesome. We just hiked to Everest Base Camp, and it peaked my interest in more technical climbing. Not sure where I can practice this in Pittsburgh PA (it rarely snows here anymore even in the winter), but I'm going to research! :)
Maine or Vermont maybe? I know there’s some stuff in Alaska and The northwest but that’s rather far
That's wild! Getting to Everest basecamp is a feat in and of itself, I'm already into mountaineering and that one seems far off to me.
I tried to climb a very popular mountain in my country called Chimborazo, we had a fell, the guide died, was a horrible experience than I'm getting better day by day, if I had saw this video a month ago, another will be the history, thank you !!
I'm picturing what you went through and I'm so sorry my friend.. I've been wanting so badly to come back to Ecuador to climb Chimborazo. I hope this hasn't discouraged you from climbing again.
highly appreciated and very valuable information. Thank you Glenmore Lodge!
This dude has the best manner of speaking
Why do you have to remove the leash from your axe?
I've never gone mountain climbing, nor do I intend to do so, but I still watched the whole video :D
It will come in handy if you read books on mountaineering
Just learned a valuable skill. Not sure when I'll get to use it since I don't have an ice axe. Also don't have ice.
The technique you taught saved me two years ago in the bathroom. And I was able to make it to the toilet again. Thank you.
I don’t plan on mountaineering yet in my life, but while skiing I almost fell off the face of the mountain, from now on I plan to get an axe so I won’t have to worry about that so much
It is alway appreciated this kind of information.
It's 3am, I've never ice climbed and never will - why am I here?
This saved my life once, while climbing a Fourteener in Colorado (Wilson Peak, near Telluride). Without the ice axe I would've plummeted down a 1500 foot snowfield into a big pile of jagged rocks
As a jiu jitsu black belt who's never done any ice climbing this technique makes a lot of sense. It's very similar to getting power in a cross choke.
Could you explain how to choose the right lenght of the axe for this purpose?
Nicely done, slow-motion is informative.
Excellent presentation. So clear too!
i am now immune to falling off damage when equipped with an axe, thanks
I'm 9 years late, I'm not an ice climber, but I still watched
Thanks now I finally know how to react to situations that could happen if I leave my room! The video was really good though!
strangely enough the axe spike, spade and the spike on the handle are not sharp at all on the two I have just bought, is that normal?
there is no way any of them would ever go through skin
I just want to know where do the mountaineers take their training while coming to climb mountains in Pakistan? And what tools play the most important role beside oxygen erc,, Rope or crampons?
Best demonstration I've seen. Thanks so much
Litterally never seen more than one inch of snow in my life and probably will never need to use this but this tutorial seemed great and I guess I know now!
Excellent demonstration and presentation... I can't wait to practice this...
Excellent. Intelligent and informative.
Really nice. Thanks for sharing that. Can you think of a good place to practice this technique in Brecon Beacons?
Watching this knowing im never going to use it but still loving every second
5:23 показана техника передвижения по моему городу. И другие приёмы я тоже использую.
Fantastic video. Just what I needed thank you 😊👏🏻
even though this is an informational video from nearly 10 years ago, that slope looks really fun to slide down on just by yourself with no sleds
Dear instructor: please wear your backpack and crampons, then show what you have to show.
Great guide, but isnt it better to still train this with a leash and crampons as it will be the same in a real slide?
Not if you don't want to risk damaging your ankles putting you out of action for a good amount of time, and perhaps even causing long term damage, stopping you from achieving what you were training for in the first place
Maybe this is a dumb question: When you press down with your shoulder onto the axe why doesn't it... hurt?
Great instructional video. Thorough and straight to the point.
Thanks for the video. As we go to the TGO we will be careful. We will not be bringing crampons or axes as we will take low routes. It is good to know at least though. What would you do if you had no axe? Roll on belly I suppose.
use your elbows and knees
Use a trekking pole. Try googling 'trekking pole self arrest'
Yeah trekking pole is probably your next best option. If you're not wearing crampons you can try kicking your toes in, on really soft snow that might work, but you're probably screwed. If you are wearing crampons, you might decide that braking your ankles is better than sliding off the mountain and giving that a try..
Short answer, be prepared with the appropriate equipment and skills for your environment, if you need an ice ax bring an ice ax.
Excellent demo
What do you do if you drop your axe?
I think you would have the leash on in the real world, and he's just not using it in practice for safety's sake.
You yell "I REGRET NOTTHIIIiiiinnnngggg" as you carrier launch off the cliff.
ryan868
What a way to go. LOL!
Turn on your back and dig your heels with crampons in and hope you don't tumble...
or quickly grab your knife and stab it in the ice horizontally...
Actually saw a person who did just that. Luckily, there were no trees nor rocks to cause serious injury. But they were cut up and bruised pretty bad...
The good news is they walked away from it and I think they got their ice axe back.
You fill your shorts
What did that guy use to wrap his axe near the top? Looks like a grip tape.
We did this with crampons on at your winter skills course in 2010 with lots of emphasis on keeping your crampons up. IIRC keeping your crampons out of contact with the ground was one of the things we were trying to learn by practising with them on. It makes sense to me that you would want to find out that your feet need to come up during training on a modest slope rather than at that instant of entering a cartwheel when trying to employee these techniques for real for the first time.
Did you find that an unacceptable number of injuries were happening when you did the training with crampons on and were forced to switch?
excellent video, I find this very informative , thank you!
Great instructions and video. Thank you
Can you elaborate why having crampons on might cause injury? I'm new to climbing and have never been ice climbing, but my understanding is that crampons are like ice climbing cleats. Wouldn't that be helpful in self arresting?
The issue is that your feet will stop moving but the rest of your body will not, and this could injure your ligaments, tendons etc
You can reach extremely high speeds. You're basically a human bobsled. If you stick your crampons in the snow at such speeds you will snap your ankles and begin cartwheeling.
Thanks, that makes sense. 👍
Why can’t you use your crampons as slow brakes as they help create drag and slow you down? I’m talking about just dragging them. Thanks!
Great video
Good to know the mentioned techniques, however it's clearly visible that Mark also uses the spike for arresting (sometimes the pick doesn't even touch the ice) and he's also driving his elbow into the snow. It's not always possible to do those, but they seem useful for him in these clips.
Well I'm honestly not sure we're watching the same video, the spike may have contributed incidentally, but just from how much ice that pick is throwing it's clear he's using the pick, and his elbow is not doing the stopping, his elbow is a fulcrum to put as much force on that pick as possible. Are you talking about the part where he is spinning from headfirst? Because he explains how and why he picks up the pick during that section. Or maybe I've missed something, but I've looked a couple times now after seeing your comment, and I'm just not seeing it.
I'm not an alpinist and will probably never need to use an ice axe but this is valuable knowledge to possess, thank you!
thank for video.a lot.i just think hillay step or bottleneck.many climber are over,exausted.from 7/8000meter and 15/20kg rucksac,is hard to made this.but not all case.thank
sure you want to point the back end directly at your jugular? seems like bad news if you catch a rock...
I live in florida and I dont plan on doing any mountain climbing but I watched this whole video just in case
What is the size of that Ice Ax?
Approximately the length from your hanging hand, to the ground.
Great video !
Very most people will do this based on instinct. Key is try not to panic and keep your thoughts together :)
Absolutely brilliant...
I nearly died this way on Elbrus, very bad memories....
I think I will leave it to more experienced ones....
yeah, but if you dig your crampon points in hard enough, you can do some great somersaults.
This is a real life saver!
How Mallory was killed (ice axe to forehead). Made me wonder if his leg was broken in a fall or because of not keeping his feet up during arrest
What the heck is an uphill hand?
If you are walking across the hill it's which ever hand is facing up the hill, this hand should always have the axe in.
Dont worry, this is instinctive. It happend to me, 1 st time on ice, on a very steep glacier. Without thinking and never be taught, that is exactly what you do. And honestly it is quite fun. I was afraid only later, when i was told there were big crevasse very close of where i stopped, after 200 meters of slide.
Im not an ice climber nor am i planning on becoming one. But its 3 am so nothings out of question.
Great explanation!
"don't run with scissors!"
yeah, but falling down a mountain with a large, metal spike is okay
My dumbass thought he was gonna arrest someone with ice axe lol
very nice slow-mos
very helpful and eas to understand video
I was expecting a 4th demo of a bum-slide start. I suppose you just turtle onto your stomach and do the #1 method.
Learning all this stuff yourself is more fun and fullfilling. Forget these do-good "guides" and "experts" at Glenmore , most are inexperienced Englishers barely in their 20s.
This guy is awesome man
ah yes. midnight youtube content
I think you should try and stop the slide with everything you have including the axe and the crampons. He talks about hurting your ankle in you use the crampons, well.. I rather hurt my ankle than fall down to my death.
Still too risky snapping your ankles/picking your lower legs.
Next to that bloody and hurtful risk, you'll most likely circle violently around your feet, loosing last bit of potential control.
I've tried this, and the most surprising part wasn't the lightning fast fall, but the merciless momentum gained in no time ...
thanks for sharing
Excellent.
Why the hell is it called an “arrest”
Arrest also means stop.
A cop arrests someone to stop them.
A cardiac arrest, the heart stops
A self-arrest, you stop yourself.
Awesome info Thank you
great video
As I'm still a novice, if I were to be sliding face down, head first could I not use my crampon toe-point to arrest my slide while they were uphill of me. Just getting into crampon use with 10 points and would like to know before I need to know.
SMOBY44 in you're scenario, front toe points wouldn't help u at all on a steep slope facing forward... u would just go sliding all they down.
Use your ice axe to self arrest regardless of you're position. crampons do more harm then good when it comes to self arrest.
Why was this in my recommendations
très bien sur des pentes faibles (
Hi, I was wondering if there is a different way to arrest if you have two climbing axes or do you drop one and do the arrest as normal? Thanks
Drop one axe unfortunately:)