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as a Master Electrician and someone that has 20 plus years of experience.......LEDs are designed for closet grows and HID lights preform better at mass production. HID produce bigger, denser buds and produce at much greater distances. a 1000watt HPS is in the $200 range and can easily produce 6lbs or more a year in a 5×5 foot space. Now LED is the future but the technology needs to catch up to that standard
Bryan West I’m a master electrician. I am growing clones from the same mother. Everything is 100% the same in the room from nutrition to water to temp n humidity. I’m running some under hps, some under Electric Sky 300 led. No comparison. The ES300’s are across the board 25% bigger, taller, and have bigger better buds and more of them.
@dirigoelectric more bud sites have more to do with topping and training ect. ect.......I call 100% bullshit on what you said. Almost every commercial grow uses HID lighting because of power output. If what you claimed were true they would change overnight. I have over 20 years experience dealing with lighting. and you're just trying to sell lights to closet growers and that's fine. Just don't lie or discredit professionals to do it. Of you truly were a Master Electrician you'd know better.
One smart thing to do is to buy the CMH with the ballast not hooked on to the reflector. Half of the heat generated by those lights is the ballast. Just leave it outside. The other issue with LEDS is the life of the lights. I agree you dont have to change bulbs, but you will eventually have to trash the whole thing. I used the same 400w ballast and reflector from 1999 to 2016. Recently changed from HPS to CMH and the results are amazing! Been running the bulb for over 3000 hours and still works great. I would recommend a 630w CMH for anything bigger than 1M x1M.
@@billyballsup2685 30-50cm depending on temps and stage of the plant. I usually have it at 450w until the first flowers appear than I change to 100% But I have to admit, that now I also run a LED.
I'm always surprised how little you pay for energy in other countrys. 0,17€. Its twice as much in germany, which makes the choice for an efficient light fairly simple.
That's because you German people didn't sell out your renewable energy sources to the Chinese. In Portugal, this joke of a country, he spent 4 or 5 years full on investing in wind farming, solar panel, wave and tide, you name it. When it was all in place, they sent in the Democratic party, they refused to make politics, trowing down the prior Socialist party that invested in all that. After some months, as a consequence of the inflation, derivatives bubble, and internal crisis, the FMI came in, wreaking havoc in the economy. We sold our only energy production company, the EDP, and the adjacent distribution network, REN. The Chinese company Three Gorges bought us like we were some Chinese crappy fake product. Same happened with the hole banking system, millions down the drain, frauds being rewarded. The communication system was sold to the Angolan president Mafia, few years prior, like in the energy monopoly, there was a major investment with cellphone towers covering every inch of the land, 4G, and all the optic cables spreading to every village. They sold PT, Portugal Telecom, it was deplorable to witness. The roads and highways had the same fraud happening. I wanted to grab a gun and kill some politics, but most of the people were being bedazzled with Cristiano Ronaldo and some world cup, we were the best in the world and I sounded like a maniac. I read that the German electricity company actually paid a little to the consumers because there was a profit being made. That's Government owned versus privatisation.
Just get a good electronic ballast, and a dimmable one. Then you can do 250w or 400w, normal or super lumen mode. Or you can buy the 600w ballast, that also does 400w. Changing the lamps and wattage gives you some leverage with heat and size problems. You can also use 400volt lamps, instead of the regular 220v. My "friend" only uses LED for seedlings and cuttings, then it's 250w for the first weeks, and onto 400w they go. In flowering, if it's too hot, you can reduce from 600w to 400w, by just changing the bulb. Electronic ballasts are safer too, and way way kinder on the lamp life. I love them ... they love them, all good.
Great video, but title should reflect that comparison was between LED and CMH, not HPS. Other than that, I think I'm with a growing number of people who consider you the 'go-to' source of honest information on grow lighting. Please keep making these informative videos.
One thing Shane.. In an outside shed you can change LEDs summer. CMH winter when warmth is important.. Just cheaper LEDs of course.. The price of LEDs at 25euros per fairly decent light you can put 4in a tent /shed,, GREAT IMFORMATION AGAIN FROM YOU 👌👌👌🙏🍀🍀🍀
I have always been a sceptic of LED's but having seen the results people are getting iv gone and bought my first LED fixture I really like the white light I'm getting old after 30 years working in under HPS I'm looking forward to seeing the plants in natural colour it should make gardening much more pleasurable to see the plants in all its full beauty
Diagnosing plant issues is much easier under a nice daylight spectrum. Even under my 2700K quantums, while it's the "reddest" spectrum available, it is still much more pleasant than orange bomb HPS. I can see a bit of orange, but it's like a reddish warm white vs full-on Cheetos vision with HPS. By switching to LEDs, my tents went from fighting to keep them under 26-27°C, crisp leaves, ducting routed everywhere and never-ending fan noise....to using a single fan to control both humidity and temperature (23-24°C and 40-55% humidity), a single dehumidifier keeping up with two tents in an outer room, and being able to hear myself think in my uncrammed work areas. You couldn't pay me to go back to HPS/MH. If I absolutely had to go HID I would go CMH, but that's it.
Well said, nice explanation Shane! For personal growers, expendable income varies over time. When money is available, it makes more sense to buy the LED fixtures. When money is tight, the LED is costing less in electricity. Having switched from HPS to LED, I am happier with having lower overhead costs with my indoor gardening.
@@jamesgiddens8078 So far, the yield looks the same. I would really need to run side by side tests for more precise data. The biggest issue was in how I grow. I try to get the correct PPFD (light strength), Kelvin (light spectrum), and prune my plants to have more of a flat top and shorter height. It helps get a more even coverage across the top of the plant.
Less Lighting Power = Less Yield and I know for a fact HPS always produce more yield. That's why commercial food companies use it. The all grow hydro too for the same reason.
I have grow with HID always, but this last time I bought several BESTVA 1200W reflector series. Worst idea ever. I was getting about 450/500g per mt2 in my autos with HID, now I'm doing 250/300g with this LEDs. I'm going back to HID.
I just did my own hid vs LED. I did a ceramic metal halide next to HPS and metal halide where the 10K finish metal halide bulb to a high-end sk600 with dimmer LED.. the ceramic metal halide was the best followed by the HPS metal halide LED lag far behind in third. I paid $1,000 for that led. It has some really cool liquid cooled technology in it no fans but it's just not up to the hid job.
I think the big big big difference here other than power use, and use of light due to its directional production from the led is that heat differences are dramatic especially leaf temperatures. All plants are different and act differently with heat but I can't stress enough the difference, the plants I grow :) benefit dramatically from the powerful and coolish light produced allowing me to remove most cooling in favour of a simple fan and ambient cooling, reducing dehumidification/ humidification issues along with allowing a lower ceiling height to facilitate massive plants. Great video and thank you.
Love the CMH , ran two 315s for a few years and even won a cannabis cup , then switched to 1000 watt CMH DE , too hot in my 5x5 30c , so switched to a Mars fc6500 plants look just as good ( better) and my temps are 23c ......amazing ! Hid is now old tech !
You have to consider in the HID fixture the cost of changing the bulb almost 1 each year. So the leds could be a little beat cheaper along 3 years of use MIGRO. 👍
i think he wanted to show even not considering bulbs cost (cmh can go 2 years in flower rooms) it can get grower ROI on electricity alone in 3 years which most people plan to be growing at least the next 3 years. with bulb costs its even faster / better value battle in LED favor.
Also, if in a hot area, output fan pulling heat out will make your Central AC work harder, more cost(and ours is around ten 10¢-11¢/KW/Hour!). I noticed I couldn't flower plants in the summer, as high temp is 86°F, but only down to 78°F max at night. They'd make it 4 wks in, then die! So I got a 5'x5' Gorilla Tent (didn't have any tent before, big mistake for many reasons, so remember kids!), and put a portable AC unit in the corner, maybe 3-4sq/ft, only 8,000btu/5,000btu according to D.O.E. Now I can get it down to 70°F at night. Great runs! Also used a 630W DE-CMH w/Sun Supply AC/DE fixture, which cools the fixture completely, has a much better reflector (no light on walls really), yet the glass gets very hot! DE-CMH isn't cooled (No DE Lamp should be air cooled directly! Very taxing on lamp and ballast, so DE-CMH is in totally reflected area, glass below, reflector above, w/airflow between reflector and fixture shell. Fixture is cool as can be, but glass gets very hot! I eventually added 4-100W COB units to set up around the perimeter, 2-50W COB's on a 1meter rail. Slideable, adjustable 180° up or down, 350° around. Certainly NO MIGRO! W/Citizen CLU48(?) COB's. The more points of light, the better! No shading! Even canopy! Healthiest plants are under the CMH, but maybe upgrading chips would help. Especially the new generation Luminous COB's! But even the newer Citizens sound much better than before. MORE SAVINGS THAN OFTEN THOUGHT! CAN'T GO WRONG WITH MIGRO! BEST COB's EVER, AND ALWAYS GETTING BETTER! CAN'T BEAT SHANE! HE'S TOPS FOR TESTING OTHER LIGHTS, THEN UPPING THEM EVENTUALLY! THANKS SHANE! IF YOU SEE THIS, LOL!
@@jackgreenstalk777 *"ROI"* there it is. costs over time must be factored. led wins now, and, as the relatively-young technology advances, led's value will only increase. KEvron
@@KEvronista and ideally the good tech becomes more affordable because once todays leds are replaced by even better ones the "low end" led will be a cob or qb much better then hps/cmh. but now the chinese import and junk epistar blurple leds underperform and with brands like kind selling them for 1k when its a 80-100 dollar light people think all leds suck and never buy one again :( this video shows if you want to grow next 3 years led is a better investment clearly, easier to manage environment during the 3 years. quality is cheaper in the long run. save up, it is worth it to buy good gear to grow with! still ends uo being way cheaper then buying bud
Thank you. You are very helpful. I am watching your show and another and slowly building up an LED collection. On the low-end price of things. I got it into LEDs when somebody surprised me and gave me some plants. I had always been a high-pressure sodium guy but it was too warm. Acquired some old outdated LEDs . Pretty damn good results. I’m never going back .
Thanks, GREAT VIDEO! Showing us some pros n cons of both products, even between your OWN products, lol, just gives me an unbiased feeling. Very informative and helpful
I realize that I am a little bit late to the party, but I have some experience with CMH lights. One thing that I never see brought up is bulb replacement. I used to work in an indoor arena that was lit by 120 400 watt cmh lights. The bulbs would last about nine months to a year and they would need to be replaced due to color change. You could easily see the difference in color and brightness. They didn’t have the same run time as grow lights either. Maybe 12 hours a day on weekends and a few were used during the week for six to eight hours a day (ten lights on for work). So based on my own experience with CMH the drawbacks of excessive heat, high power consumption, potentially noisy ballasts, and bulbs changing their color due to aging, LED is the way to go. Edit to add: I forgot about start up time. LED lights are instant on whereas CMH bulbs have to warm up. And should you accidentally turn it off, or a quick power outage were to happen, you generally have to wait for the ballast to cool down before the bulb relights. Depending on the ballast it could take between five and ten minutes to restore the light.
This is a great comparison for me. I grow in a 5 square foot tent (diamond mylar walls) and I was using a 315 CMH, and I actually just swapped it out for a 210 watt 2 cob LED fixture (2VL) from timber growlights. I love that it can dim down to 10% (my bulb can't do that / dimmed bulbs ruin their spectrum, leds dont change when dimmed). More efficient, less heat, no bulb replacing, potentially better spectrum, easier to manage environment, and more even PAR spread on canopy. it feels good to upgrade and move into modern age of technology in lighting. I used to veg under t5s and MH and flower under HPS.. I switched to CMH and loved it, while a lot of friends stayed with HPS and swore led/cmh are trash.. well I've seen my quality get better and theirs stay the same, plus my electrical bill and carbon footprint are much lower then ever growing indoors
@@3535samuel ive seen others have denser, full disclosure ive just began my first run seed to harvest under an LED 2 cob fixture rated abot 2.3 ppfd/watt .. my friends who grow with same lights at first had airey buds but once they dialed in vpd and proper wattage per square foot, they have denser better buds then they have ever had before with other lights. im actually really happy with my 315 cmh (sunsystems diamond 315 lec fixture) and still have it if i dont love my led for flower it will just be my veg chamber light.. but im confident its going to crush it.. going to add a chilled growmau5 led bloom blooster puck between the cobs when i flip to flower
@@ObjectiveAnalysis look at the side by sides shane has done on this channel.. lec/cmh/MH/Hps all have giant spikes and huge spots with little/no spectrum.. and dimmed bulbs spectrum changss drastically, entirely removing color on some spots of spectrum when dimmed down. what you say about price is also false, you can diy led with amazing spectrum for a feq hundred bucks. but even a simple 3500k white cob array is solid fairly full spectrum light you can use alone seed to harvest with great results then you can add bloom boosters from growmau5 for 30-40 bucks to add to spots on spectrum cob may lack in.. also have blues, uv, ir, you can build/buy whatever you want.. hps/mh hasnt changed much since 1978.. LEC /cmh is a great light its my primary flower bulb at the moment, but ive seen way too many people i know and online have amazing results with LED, and the PAR spread doesnt lie.. more even par across canopy is better for uniform growth few hot spots more ideal spots.. i couldn't deny the science any more despite my mentors all swearing that led is junk.. they just havent tried modern ones.. itd be like saying all phones suck but you have only used one thats 5-10 year old tech. todays best Technology, while expensive, performs incredibly! I use to use t5s, mh, and HPS and got awesome buds from it, but the heat was harder to manage and got way less yield per watt of enegy used
From the hps vs led comparison imo leds are engineered to the exact spectrum to grow plants specifically, as opposed to hps that incidentally grows them. Heat is another factor up to 3500 b.t.u. with 1000 watt hps, give or take depending on the wattage. Electricity consumption is halved with an equal light replacement. Bulbs last up to 1-2 runs if you're growing cannabis like i am,then need replacement due to drop off, leds last up to 12 years!!! So no worries about replacing your t-5 veg bulbs along with the h.p.s. flowering room ones constantly. Ballasts last depending upon digital or magnetic 2-3 years with constant use,where as drivers have a up to 7 years manufacturers warranty, and usually last up to 5 plus years I'm told. Another plus from the cannabis growing end of it is leds penetrate much deeper into the canopy reaching down to solidify the bottom buds,where h.p.s. seems to lack penetration in that department. The market prices will drop exponentially as more competition and companies enter the fray. Depending upon your age and memory of who's reading this, do you remember when cell phones, aka "bricks" (lol) cd players,vcr's or flat screen tvs first hit the market? Prices were in the thousands of dollars range! Now vcr's and cd players are obsolete and cell phones are practically given away! Costs per led with cheap chinese knock offs or them stealing companies intellectual property, also will bring prices lower in the future. Whether or not you want to trust the manufacturing of the cheap knock offs is a gamble and decision only you individually can make. In my experience all of the cannabis growers I know I highly recommended leds to and they've all switched and others with larger facilities are in the process. I personally love them and am glad i switched. Thanks again. ▪☆☆☆▪
It's also more difficult to control humidity of the grow area with the metal halide lamps. Also the lifespan of LEDs has come such a long way. Been growing for around 30 years and I couldn't wait for a change in technology because of the heat, cost to run and the bulk of HPS. I remember seeing an add in California years ago for what was called True Sun. That was the beginning of LEDs. I don't think for 1 second that they are expensive. It far outweighs the dangers of HPS in my opinion. I know there are still many old school who won't change but as time goes on, these lamps will be made obsolete I think.
Another great video, love how you stick to the truth and aren't a snake oil sales man. I do think though for people who live in cold environments and need to heat there tent and still have a good air flow through the tent HID's may be the better option. I use to own a 600w hps in a 4x4 with RH of 65 avg and down to -2 cel with a night avg of 7cel and day of 15cel for 9 months of the year. So for me the hps and mh worked a treat. Now i live in a fully climate controlled house of where temps are min 17 max 25cel and RH is 35 summer and maybe 45 winter the LED's are a no brainer.
If I was growing 2 plants in a 32 / 32 / 64 inch tent, would a migro 100 be enough? Currently using 2 x 600w leds. (Added one for last 3 weeks on your suggestion in a previous call) I'm just not sure if need to go higher than the migro 100. I'm also sure that I read the left light in video is ideal for a grow space of that measurement. Which also makes me think I've just answered that question and I would need a migro 200?
Thanks for the responses. I actually spoke to Shane a while back explained I had for the first few weeks a unnamed Chinese light. Which I swapped out for a phlizon 600w light. But he suggested the last 3 weeks of flower add in the other aswell. Unless i was mistaken.
i just bought 750 lumigrow for 10 dollers its got 220 plug ,could you tell me if it would be phisable to use these only 2 hr per 12 hr grow period,iv got 4 spider farmer led ,100 watters as well in the tent to manage the other 10 hr period.
My ballast isn't in my grow space. Temps are perfect. Plus the fact that CMH bulbs last way way longer than hps makes me want to wait and see where led goes. It's moving leaps and bounds now, and I already own a load of gear.
@@abeharder-cattell6810 I use this. Imported from a Chinese manufacturer on Alibaba. Elec - low. Heat - low. Power - uuuultimate. And they cost $125 for a 240w!!
spent twice as much? I built myself a Citizen CLU048 97 CRI 3000K fixture. 150 Watts with MeanWell dimmable cc driver, anodized alu heat sink, Ideal holders&reflectors, screws, nuts, cables, shrink tubes, thermal paste and other small stuff for ca. 300$. In other words: 2$ per watt. I found a similar complete 150 W build with cheap Cree COBs (CRI 80, not enough of 660 - 730 nm) for 450$. Do it yourself and you get better spectra, better efficiencies for half the price other grow shops want to steal from you. I'm not an electrician either, but a biochemist who loves cacti
Same thought here mate. As always with new(ish) tech, folk who are truly on a budget get priced out for a good few years. Ima stick with a wee 400hps for the time being... and have the room windows open in the summer, but in the winter it gives plenty of warm... regular temps of 26-8. I have a pal running the CMH and he needs a heater in there even in the summer months. I think that negates the positive lower running costs from the LED's. Peace. I do like Shane's videos though, ALWAYS doing bang on comparisons.
This is a 4year old video and even in the past 4 years since being recorded the technology on LED light systems has improved a hell of a lot ! The product from LED lights has well improved and for the better 💯🤜🤛
@leigh int uk doesnt need to be that expsensive to replace 1200 watt hps you would need roughly 600 lets say 650 watt of LED i recommend samsung f-strips that would cost you about 600-700€ depending on where you souce your aluminium
@@НовиСадСрбија but you get more light for less energy and directed to your plants with led . When light is spread it s not directed at your plants . So how can that be good?????
@@НовиСадСрбија no they aren't lol! Most quantum kits are panels, either multi board on one large heatsink, or seperate panels. By their very dimensions, and/or seperation they are inherently more efficient with spread (area covered) per watt. My two 300W panels, each with 800 Samsung diodes per panel, each of them 1' wide and 3' long, have WAY better coverage than the 1000W, single light point HID they replace. There is no comparison in the efficiency of coverage.
Great explanation, I like your light intensity overlays showing what the eyes and camera can't see. You always do a great job. Are you going to keep the peppers growing in there for a while?
Please could you test plants with classical music? That seems silly but I believe that have an effect on the plant grow. I try it actually and I hope that will have a positive effect. These beauties needs love like every lifes on earth.
Chronos lol honestly, people have told me the same thing. They love music and spending time with them. They are living organisms just like us so nothing would surprise me lol
LOL I've got to say this you through the turd bomb out there funny I know it's your way of language. Thanks for what you do Shane keep up the good work happy Saturday stay cool peace out
Fortunately the LEDs' prices will become more affordable soon (without dealing with Alibaba), because 500€ is still a very steep price (and the major investment of your grow). Once LEDS' prices will become as cheap as HID, let's say you pay 250-300€ for the Migro set up, LEDs will take >90% of the market (and blurples and even HID will be very marginal, due to lack of reading about that subject). Thank you Shane for the infos.
Hesitant to make the full LED leap. My HPS however is very inefficient compared to equivalent LED. Once i feel i can absorb the initial investment i may be making the change though. Considering fluence strips. Any opinions out there? Splitting my 5'x5' tent into 2ea 30"x60" tents. Looking to be around 600w hps equivalent in each tent. Other than fluence type strips what's comparable with best canopy penetration?
@GBH all things to consider. I'm still in the planning stages. My current situation using 1k hps is working, but at my novice level just not cost effective. I'd like to get more efficient while utilizing my current footprint and rearranging tents. I hate reaching into a 5' depth tent, so my first concern was tent size. Want same sq ft but half depth. Two tents side by side. Identical light set up or maybe different so i can experiment. We'll see. I like the cobs for canopy penetration. I like the strips for efficiency. Mixing would be great. It all adds up quick so I'm really just kind of fishing for ideas right now. Ideally, I'd love to run 3ea cobs and 4 ea fluence strips covering a 30" x 60" footprint. Dreaming. 😂😂😂 My knowledge of proper LED coverage and efficiency is lacking, but that's why i hang around here. These reviews rock. And Shane, if you're reading, thanks for doing these videos. Very informative for the average Joe.
@GBH I've been perpetual for two years now, working in a 10' x 12' room with multiple tents. G-room schedule is slightly chaotic at times, but i have the process down. Cuttings and veg in a fashion that allows half the flower tent to be harvested every 4-5 wks. Now, my focus is efficiency of equipment. I went old school hps for awhile. Now I'm looking to led. Considering my tent footprint as the standard, I'm attempting to optimize the lighting options now. More research.... 😁😁😁
Another great vid, cheers Shane. 2.5x investment over 3 years and thats not taking into account the amount of cmh bulbs you might use in that time at about £50 to £80 per bulb, if you want to dial in the spectrum you need 2 bulbs.
You selling the lense on the light you designed good job I would like to see it go side by side with a CMH with a philips bulb not some bullshit bulb I bet second week of flower your mind will be blown.
How do shain awesome information. 12 months in with my migro 100! Love IT. also got an e s 180 same time. L E D all the way ! Beast yielded and quality ever! Looking forward to the review of the e s 300 ? Do u sell them t shirts.?
I haven't seen you compare The quantum boards yet. Is that because it's far lower then what your testing? Can you explain why not quantum boards? Thanks for this comparison also. It sold me on COBs. But cobs and drivers aren't cheap that's why I was looking into the quantum boards they're cheaper and I can add red spectrum more. Your opinion sir. 🤗
Andy Smith i just built one from components and it cost a little more than 700 Canadian $. I got 3 panels and two red strips. Each panel has a 185 watt driver and the strips got their own. I can turn on and off just the way I need it and I can dim them too. The panels can be run at ~300 each but anything over 185 I would need heatsinks
If you want to grow lettuce buy led! But 20 degrees is too cold for growing a heat loving plant like weed, 25-28 degrees if ideal and it seems to me that the CMH is the best light unless you want to run a space heater and burn more electricity. I had two 315 CMH lights in a 4x5 tent and with the air temp around 85 degrees my leaf temp was at 71-73 degrees F, My plants grow strong and healthy and I get a pound a plant without spending a lot of money on lights that can't match the spectrum or produce infra red. The good old MH produces even more UV than the CMH and more blue as well. IF you use HPS you might want to know that the Hortilux super HPS puts out 10-15% more blue than any of the other HPS bulbs out there, are made in the USA not CHINA, and last twice as long, I swear by them. Normally I don't mess around with small lights but got three 315 CMH's for the price of the bulbs so i'm trying two them out in a 4x8 along with a 400W HPS to see how the plants grow, I expect a lot more vegetive growth right through flower but I've been wrong before, The bulbs i"m using in the CMH are Phillips 3100K to give them the best chance of flowering without too much vegetive growth. I also have been adding UVB using two California grow lights 24 W florescent UVB fixtures and have to say that I wish I had them thirty years ago! Shane sells a very similar fixture, They are well worth the money especially if you make extracts! but use them sparingly in the last three weaks of flower because they WILL burn your plants.
Love the vids man, I'm guessing you won't see this but what are you thoughts on the Crecer Lighting fixtures? it looks like they are getting crazy efficacy.
Hey Migro! I was wondering if you would give me permission to share this information on our website? We are trying to educate people about the benefits of LED over HID and this would be very useful for people who view our page.
So what happens at 50k hours when I have to replace the led that costs 3 x the price of the cmh? Replacing a bulb after 10k hours is one thing but to save some cash on electricity just to have to buy a completely new fixture? Lol
People starting out now should never know or own any HID system, spend the couple more dollars and get an led if your poor get some bloomspect 300 watt models with secondary lenses those are great for introduction to LEDs, hell I still use them in one of my tents, I'm slowly upgrading to DIY type led grow lights.
I have both but can tell by looking cmh is more of all light than led side by side led still gets bleached out. 630 watts of cmh is still more than 480 watts of r spec quantum boards. I have new copies of each i just use the cmh the led is nice still. Ive spots for it. So fucking bright it hurts.
LED and HPS they have a place in the growing community everything that I've done HPS get you bigger fruit turn all around better light to me on a light mover that's where it's at buy a $61 bulb once year if you grow all year LED for a real good one $1,500 up I don't have that kind of money I had a $300 LED it worked good 2 years burnout he he he
Build your own DIY COB LED fixture!!! For example one LUMINUS CXM22 COB per square foot, best coverage possible run each cob @25 watts in veg and 35watts in flower....have one cob per square foot is optimum cover!!!! And you can build your light as big as needed. Much love! Got me a 2x2 area light build with four cobs.....with the driver and all other materials about 150-170$ to cover a 2x2 in the best way possible! Cant beat that! with only 100 watt power consumption in veg and 140 watts in flower!
@@tiredoflies6247 thanks for the reply. Yeah I 3 Cobbs right now going to try to save up and get a few more and then I'll buy my driver yeah you can build a better light just about third of the price and you'll have a better light thanks for the info have a good grow day sir
@@krustyoldsmoker85 yeah check out digikey.com for your parts....get the meanwell drivers, luminus cobs....some l bracket aluminum pieces for your frame build...aluminum heatsinks a couple of yoyo hangers....bjb holders without any lenses or refelctors....too much light loss......just go straight with the bjb holders for a luminus cxm 22 per square foot no reflextors needed, passiv coold with the right aluminum hatsinks....boom best coverage ever....oh yeah and get the CXM 22 in 3500k 90cri......by luminus, the 90 cri for more red and fater buds! much love brother be smart!
@@tiredoflies6247 i would recommend to buy Samsung F-strips for better coverage and even lower temps and you dont need large heatsinks 300$ for 300watts
@@ObjectiveAnalysis *"you can get them but they’re expensive"* it's not like they're prohibitively expensive; they last much longer than hps, and they're much cheaper to run than hps. expenses have to be factored over time. *"right now"* those are key words. they _are_ available, and affordability has nowhere to go but down (or would that be up?). the technology's in its infancy, while hps has pretty much peaked. KEvron
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You mention HPS in the Title but do not show it in the video for obvious reasons. Notice how he doesn't compare HPS to LED in this video.
as a Master Electrician and someone that has 20 plus years of experience.......LEDs are designed for closet grows and HID lights preform better at mass production. HID produce bigger, denser buds and produce at much greater distances. a 1000watt HPS is in the $200 range and can easily produce 6lbs or more a year in a 5×5 foot space. Now LED is the future but the technology needs to catch up to that standard
Bryan West I’m a master electrician. I am growing clones from the same mother. Everything is 100% the same in the room from nutrition to water to temp n humidity. I’m running some under hps, some under Electric Sky 300 led. No comparison. The ES300’s are across the board 25% bigger, taller, and have bigger better buds and more of them.
@@dirigoelectric ok. Wheres the footage?
@dirigoelectric more bud sites have more to do with topping and training ect. ect.......I call 100% bullshit on what you said. Almost every commercial grow uses HID lighting because of power output. If what you claimed were true they would change overnight. I have over 20 years experience dealing with lighting. and you're just trying to sell lights to closet growers and that's fine. Just don't lie or discredit professionals to do it. Of you truly were a Master Electrician you'd know better.
Rigchis_Ain't_Playing here in my phone. Don’t know how to post here for you to see
Rigchis_Ain't_Playing ask yourself why Gavida is working on LED technology?
ruclips.net/video/Oz6vg8jvvcU/видео.html
One smart thing to do is to buy the CMH with the ballast not hooked on to the reflector. Half of the heat generated by those lights is the ballast. Just leave it outside. The other issue with LEDS is the life of the lights. I agree you dont have to change bulbs, but you will eventually have to trash the whole thing. I used the same 400w ballast and reflector from 1999 to 2016.
Recently changed from HPS to CMH and the results are amazing! Been running the bulb for over 3000 hours and still works great. I would recommend a 630w CMH for anything bigger than 1M x1M.
I run two. How high have you got them above your plants. Do you have it on 100%.
@@billyballsup2685 30-50cm depending on temps and stage of the plant. I usually have it at 450w until the first flowers appear than I change to 100%
But I have to admit, that now I also run a LED.
I'm always surprised how little you pay for energy in other countrys. 0,17€. Its twice as much in germany, which makes the choice for an efficient light fairly simple.
And I thought 0.17€ was a lot, only costs $0.08 here.
@@JustAverageJeff in uk its 17p kwh average
Im running a 2k watts give or take plus the house useage and my bills like 120 bucks a month US
That's because you German people didn't sell out your renewable energy sources to the Chinese. In Portugal, this joke of a country, he spent 4 or 5 years full on investing in wind farming, solar panel, wave and tide, you name it. When it was all in place, they sent in the Democratic party, they refused to make politics, trowing down the prior Socialist party that invested in all that. After some months, as a consequence of the inflation, derivatives bubble, and internal crisis, the FMI came in, wreaking havoc in the economy. We sold our only energy production company, the EDP, and the adjacent distribution network, REN. The Chinese company Three Gorges bought us like we were some Chinese crappy fake product. Same happened with the hole banking system, millions down the drain, frauds being rewarded. The communication system was sold to the Angolan president Mafia, few years prior, like in the energy monopoly, there was a major investment with cellphone towers covering every inch of the land, 4G, and all the optic cables spreading to every village. They sold PT, Portugal Telecom, it was deplorable to witness. The roads and highways had the same fraud happening. I wanted to grab a gun and kill some politics, but most of the people were being bedazzled with Cristiano Ronaldo and some world cup, we were the best in the world and I sounded like a maniac. I read that the German electricity company actually paid a little to the consumers because there was a profit being made. That's Government owned versus privatisation.
Just get a good electronic ballast, and a dimmable one. Then you can do 250w or 400w, normal or super lumen mode. Or you can buy the 600w ballast, that also does 400w. Changing the lamps and wattage gives you some leverage with heat and size problems. You can also use 400volt lamps, instead of the regular 220v. My "friend" only uses LED for seedlings and cuttings, then it's 250w for the first weeks, and onto 400w they go. In flowering, if it's too hot, you can reduce from 600w to 400w, by just changing the bulb. Electronic ballasts are safer too, and way way kinder on the lamp life. I love them ... they love them, all good.
Great video, but title should reflect that comparison was between LED and CMH, not HPS.
Other than that, I think I'm with a growing number of people who consider you the 'go-to' source of honest information on grow lighting. Please keep making these informative videos.
Because cmh is even more efficient than hps
Totally agree with the 'go-to' source of lighting info.
One thing Shane.. In an outside shed you can change LEDs summer. CMH winter when warmth is important.. Just cheaper LEDs of course.. The price of LEDs at 25euros per fairly decent light you can put 4in a tent /shed,, GREAT IMFORMATION AGAIN FROM YOU 👌👌👌🙏🍀🍀🍀
@@greengold6705 in white color temperature.
Yes that is the most important
I have always been a sceptic of LED's but having seen the results people are getting iv gone and bought my first LED fixture I really like the white light I'm getting old after 30 years working in under HPS I'm looking forward to seeing the plants in natural colour it should make gardening much more pleasurable to see the plants in all its full beauty
Diagnosing plant issues is much easier under a nice daylight spectrum. Even under my 2700K quantums, while it's the "reddest" spectrum available, it is still much more pleasant than orange bomb HPS. I can see a bit of orange, but it's like a reddish warm white vs full-on Cheetos vision with HPS.
By switching to LEDs, my tents went from fighting to keep them under 26-27°C, crisp leaves, ducting routed everywhere and never-ending fan noise....to using a single fan to control both humidity and temperature (23-24°C and 40-55% humidity), a single dehumidifier keeping up with two tents in an outer room, and being able to hear myself think in my uncrammed work areas.
You couldn't pay me to go back to HPS/MH. If I absolutely had to go HID I would go CMH, but that's it.
Well said, nice explanation Shane! For personal growers, expendable income varies over time. When money is available, it makes more sense to buy the LED fixtures. When money is tight, the LED is costing less in electricity. Having switched from HPS to LED, I am happier with having lower overhead costs with my indoor gardening.
Matt Garver did you notice a decrease in yield?
@@jamesgiddens8078 So far, the yield looks the same. I would really need to run side by side tests for more precise data. The biggest issue was in how I grow. I try to get the correct PPFD (light strength), Kelvin (light spectrum), and prune my plants to have more of a flat top and shorter height. It helps get a more even coverage across the top of the plant.
Matt Garver makes sense. Thanks for the detailed repose it is much appreciated and good luck with your grow !(:
Less Lighting Power = Less Yield and I know for a fact HPS always produce more yield. That's why commercial food companies use it. The all grow hydro too for the same reason.
I have grow with HID always, but this last time I bought several BESTVA 1200W reflector series. Worst idea ever. I was getting about 450/500g per mt2 in my autos with HID, now I'm doing 250/300g with this LEDs. I'm going back to HID.
Sheeeeeet
You bought a Lada and entered it into a race.......
I just did my own hid vs LED. I did a ceramic metal halide next to HPS and metal halide where the 10K finish metal halide bulb to a high-end sk600 with dimmer LED.. the ceramic metal halide was the best followed by the HPS metal halide LED lag far behind in third. I paid $1,000 for that led. It has some really cool liquid cooled technology in it no fans but it's just not up to the hid job.
those old shitty kindleds?
I think the big big big difference here other than power use, and use of light due to its directional production from the led is that heat differences are dramatic especially leaf temperatures. All plants are different and act differently with heat but I can't stress enough the difference, the plants I grow :) benefit dramatically from the powerful and coolish light produced allowing me to remove most cooling in favour of a simple fan and ambient cooling, reducing dehumidification/ humidification issues along with allowing a lower ceiling height to facilitate massive plants. Great video and thank you.
Love the CMH , ran two 315s for a few years and even won a cannabis cup , then switched to 1000 watt CMH DE , too hot in my 5x5 30c , so switched to a Mars fc6500 plants look just as good ( better) and my temps are 23c ......amazing ! Hid is now old tech !
You have to consider in the HID fixture the cost of changing the bulb almost 1 each year.
So the leds could be a little beat cheaper along 3 years of use MIGRO. 👍
i think he wanted to show even not considering bulbs cost (cmh can go 2 years in flower rooms) it can get grower ROI on electricity alone in 3 years which most people plan to be growing at least the next 3 years. with bulb costs its even faster / better value battle in LED favor.
Also, if in a hot area, output fan pulling heat out will make your Central AC work harder, more cost(and ours is around ten 10¢-11¢/KW/Hour!). I noticed I couldn't flower plants in the summer, as high temp is 86°F, but only down to 78°F max at night. They'd make it 4 wks in, then die! So I got a 5'x5' Gorilla Tent (didn't have any tent before, big mistake for many reasons, so remember kids!), and put a portable AC unit in the corner, maybe 3-4sq/ft, only 8,000btu/5,000btu according to D.O.E. Now I can get it down to 70°F at night. Great runs! Also used a 630W DE-CMH w/Sun Supply AC/DE fixture, which cools the fixture completely, has a much better reflector (no light on walls really), yet the glass gets very hot! DE-CMH isn't cooled (No DE Lamp should be air cooled directly! Very taxing on lamp and ballast, so DE-CMH is in totally reflected area, glass below, reflector above, w/airflow between reflector and fixture shell. Fixture is cool as can be, but glass gets very hot! I eventually added 4-100W COB units to set up around the perimeter, 2-50W COB's on a 1meter rail. Slideable, adjustable 180° up or down, 350° around. Certainly NO MIGRO! W/Citizen CLU48(?) COB's. The more points of light, the better! No shading! Even canopy! Healthiest plants are under the CMH, but maybe upgrading chips would help. Especially the new generation Luminous COB's! But even the newer Citizens sound much better than before. MORE SAVINGS THAN OFTEN THOUGHT! CAN'T GO WRONG WITH MIGRO! BEST COB's EVER, AND ALWAYS GETTING BETTER! CAN'T BEAT SHANE! HE'S TOPS FOR TESTING OTHER LIGHTS, THEN UPPING THEM EVENTUALLY! THANKS SHANE! IF YOU SEE THIS, LOL!
@@jackgreenstalk777
*"ROI"*
there it is. costs over time must be factored. led wins now, and, as the relatively-young technology advances, led's value will only increase.
KEvron
@@KEvronista and ideally the good tech becomes more affordable because once todays leds are replaced by even better ones the "low end" led will be a cob or qb much better then hps/cmh. but now the chinese import and junk epistar blurple leds underperform and with brands like kind selling them for 1k when its a 80-100 dollar light people think all leds suck and never buy one again :( this video shows if you want to grow next 3 years led is a better investment clearly, easier to manage environment during the 3 years. quality is cheaper in the long run. save up, it is worth it to buy good gear to grow with! still ends uo being way cheaper then buying bud
Tim Turk your plants would die in 4 weeks with that heat???? Makes no sense! I could easily get away with that , especially running co2
I love your videos! You are a very analytical thinker which makes it so easy to absorb your info
Thank you. You are very helpful. I am watching your show and another and slowly building up an LED collection. On the low-end price of things. I got it into LEDs when somebody surprised me and gave me some plants. I had always been a high-pressure sodium guy but it was too warm. Acquired some old outdated LEDs . Pretty damn good results. I’m never going back .
Thanks, GREAT VIDEO! Showing us some pros n cons of both products, even between your OWN products, lol, just gives me an unbiased feeling. Very informative and helpful
thats the best part.. he sells both, but people will still claim he is being bias haha
@@jackgreenstalk777 I know.. there's always the "occasional asshole " , as I like to call them haha! 🙏👍😁
I realize that I am a little bit late to the party, but I have some experience with CMH lights. One thing that I never see brought up is bulb replacement. I used to work in an indoor arena that was lit by 120 400 watt cmh lights. The bulbs would last about nine months to a year and they would need to be replaced due to color change. You could easily see the difference in color and brightness. They didn’t have the same run time as grow lights either. Maybe 12 hours a day on weekends and a few were used during the week for six to eight hours a day (ten lights on for work).
So based on my own experience with CMH the drawbacks of excessive heat, high power consumption, potentially noisy ballasts, and bulbs changing their color due to aging, LED is the way to go.
Edit to add:
I forgot about start up time. LED lights are instant on whereas CMH bulbs have to warm up. And should you accidentally turn it off, or a quick power outage were to happen, you generally have to wait for the ballast to cool down before the bulb relights. Depending on the ballast it could take between five and ten minutes to restore the light.
This is a great comparison for me. I grow in a 5 square foot tent (diamond mylar walls) and I was using a 315 CMH, and I actually just swapped it out for a 210 watt 2 cob LED fixture (2VL) from timber growlights. I love that it can dim down to 10% (my bulb can't do that / dimmed bulbs ruin their spectrum, leds dont change when dimmed). More efficient, less heat, no bulb replacing, potentially better spectrum, easier to manage environment, and more even PAR spread on canopy. it feels good to upgrade and move into modern age of technology in lighting. I used to veg under t5s and MH and flower under HPS.. I switched to CMH and loved it, while a lot of friends stayed with HPS and swore led/cmh are trash.. well I've seen my quality get better and theirs stay the same, plus my electrical bill and carbon footprint are much lower then ever growing indoors
Jack Greenstalk with cobs leds , hows the density of your dry buds ? It it the same , better or worse over hps ?
Jack Greenstalk no way are you getting a better spectrum with LED than you would with CMH/MH, unless you plan to spend thousands
@@3535samuel ive seen others have denser, full disclosure ive just began my first run seed to harvest under an LED 2 cob fixture rated abot 2.3 ppfd/watt .. my friends who grow with same lights at first had airey buds but once they dialed in vpd and proper wattage per square foot, they have denser better buds then they have ever had before with other lights. im actually really happy with my 315 cmh (sunsystems diamond 315 lec fixture) and still have it if i dont love my led for flower it will just be my veg chamber light.. but im confident its going to crush it.. going to add a chilled growmau5 led bloom blooster puck between the cobs when i flip to flower
@@ObjectiveAnalysis look at the side by sides shane has done on this channel.. lec/cmh/MH/Hps all have giant spikes and huge spots with little/no spectrum.. and dimmed bulbs spectrum changss drastically, entirely removing color on some spots of spectrum when dimmed down. what you say about price is also false, you can diy led with amazing spectrum for a feq hundred bucks. but even a simple 3500k white cob array is solid fairly full spectrum light you can use alone seed to harvest with great results then you can add bloom boosters from growmau5 for 30-40 bucks to add to spots on spectrum cob may lack in.. also have blues, uv, ir, you can build/buy whatever you want.. hps/mh hasnt changed much since 1978.. LEC /cmh is a great light its my primary flower bulb at the moment, but ive seen way too many people i know and online have amazing results with LED, and the PAR spread doesnt lie.. more even par across canopy is better for uniform growth few hot spots more ideal spots.. i couldn't deny the science any more despite my mentors all swearing that led is junk.. they just havent tried modern ones.. itd be like saying all phones suck but you have only used one thats 5-10 year old tech. todays best Technology, while expensive, performs incredibly! I use to use t5s, mh, and HPS and got awesome buds from it, but the heat was harder to manage and got way less yield per watt of enegy used
Vpd aha ha ha ha ! Your a joke bro !
Why choose led,the heat alone of hid is all I have to say.
So people have problems with heat
From the hps vs led comparison imo leds are engineered to the exact spectrum to grow plants specifically, as opposed to hps that incidentally grows them.
Heat is another factor up to 3500 b.t.u. with 1000 watt hps, give or take depending on the wattage. Electricity consumption is halved with an equal light replacement. Bulbs last up to 1-2 runs if you're growing cannabis like i am,then need replacement due to drop off, leds last up to 12 years!!! So no worries about replacing your t-5 veg bulbs along with the h.p.s. flowering room ones constantly. Ballasts last depending upon digital or magnetic 2-3 years with constant use,where as drivers have a up to 7 years manufacturers warranty, and usually last up to 5 plus years I'm told. Another plus from the cannabis growing end of it is leds penetrate much deeper into the canopy reaching down to solidify the bottom buds,where h.p.s. seems to lack penetration in that department.
The market prices will drop exponentially as more competition and companies enter the fray. Depending upon your age and memory of who's reading this, do you remember when cell phones, aka "bricks" (lol) cd players,vcr's or flat screen tvs first hit the market? Prices were in the thousands of dollars range! Now vcr's and cd players are obsolete and cell phones are practically given away! Costs per led with cheap chinese knock offs or them stealing companies intellectual property, also will bring prices lower in the future. Whether or not you want to trust the manufacturing of the cheap knock offs is a gamble and decision only you individually can make.
In my experience all of the cannabis growers I know I highly recommended leds to and they've all switched and others with larger facilities are in the process. I personally love them and am glad i switched. Thanks again. ▪☆☆☆▪
It's also more difficult to control humidity of the grow area with the metal halide lamps.
Also the lifespan of LEDs has come such a long way. Been growing for around 30 years and I couldn't wait for a change in technology because of the heat, cost to run and the bulk of HPS. I remember seeing an add in California years ago for what was called True Sun. That was the beginning of LEDs. I don't think for 1 second that they are expensive. It far outweighs the dangers of HPS in my opinion. I know there are still many old school who won't change but as time goes on, these lamps will be made obsolete I think.
Another great video, love how you stick to the truth and aren't a snake oil sales man. I do think though for people who live in cold environments and need to heat there tent and still have a good air flow through the tent HID's may be the better option. I use to own a 600w hps in a 4x4 with RH of 65 avg and down to -2 cel with a night avg of 7cel and day of 15cel for 9 months of the year. So for me the hps and mh worked a treat. Now i live in a fully climate controlled house of where temps are min 17 max 25cel and RH is 35 summer and maybe 45 winter the LED's are a no brainer.
If I was growing 2 plants in a 32 / 32 / 64 inch tent, would a migro 100 be enough? Currently using 2 x 600w leds. (Added one for last 3 weeks on your suggestion in a previous call) I'm just not sure if need to go higher than the migro 100. I'm also sure that I read the left light in video is ideal for a grow space of that measurement. Which also makes me think I've just answered that question and I would need a migro 200?
do you want to replace 1200w with 100w? is this your question?
Thanks for the responses. I actually spoke to Shane a while back explained I had for the first few weeks a unnamed Chinese light. Which I swapped out for a phlizon 600w light. But he suggested the last 3 weeks of flower add in the other aswell. Unless i was mistaken.
@GBH "would a migro 100 be enough? Currently using 2 x 600w leds."
@@Cobblers82 use a migro 200
The phlizon 600w is actually around 125w draw from the wall
Finally someone wised up and prevented cross lighting in their comparison, bravo 👍
CMH is good in winter gardens... Led is better over summer
Shane! I love your videos. Thanks and Cheers and thanks. Michigan USA.
i just bought 750 lumigrow for 10 dollers its got 220 plug ,could you tell me if it would be phisable to use these only 2 hr per 12 hr grow period,iv got 4 spider farmer led ,100 watters as well in the tent to manage the other 10 hr period.
My ballast isn't in my grow space. Temps are perfect.
Plus the fact that CMH bulbs last way way longer than hps makes me want to wait and see where led goes. It's moving leaps and bounds now, and I already own a load of gear.
Hard to beat CMH. ✌
Yeah good gear for shure.
New lm301H samsung led quantum boards are over 3.
@@abeharder-cattell6810 I use this. Imported from a Chinese manufacturer on Alibaba.
Elec - low. Heat - low. Power - uuuultimate. And they cost $125 for a 240w!!
spent twice as much? I built myself a Citizen CLU048 97 CRI 3000K fixture. 150 Watts with MeanWell dimmable cc driver, anodized alu heat sink, Ideal holders&reflectors, screws, nuts, cables, shrink tubes, thermal paste and other small stuff for ca. 300$. In other words: 2$ per watt. I found a similar complete 150 W build with cheap Cree COBs (CRI 80, not enough of 660 - 730 nm) for 450$.
Do it yourself and you get better spectra, better efficiencies for half the price other grow shops want to steal from you. I'm not an electrician either, but a biochemist who loves cacti
what a coincidence im also a chemist and diy´ed my fixture with samsung strips you dont even need those holders as they have push in connectors
I’m gonna need about 4 of these dam led lights for my flower room. That’s a hellava up front cost! Can’t imagine swinging that cost!
Same thought here mate. As always with new(ish) tech, folk who are truly on a budget get priced out for a good few years. Ima stick with a wee 400hps for the time being... and have the room windows open in the summer, but in the winter it gives plenty of warm... regular temps of 26-8. I have a pal running the CMH and he needs a heater in there even in the summer months. I think that negates the positive lower running costs from the LED's.
Peace.
I do like Shane's videos though, ALWAYS doing bang on comparisons.
coil junkie trust me mate, i bought a kingbo 2000w led light off amazon for £240.... its the dogs bollox
23lnp nice. I may have to check that out then. Good lookin out buddy!
This is a 4year old video and even in the past 4 years since being recorded the technology on LED light systems has improved a hell of a lot ! The product from LED lights has well improved and for the better 💯🤜🤛
which watt led is better than 600 watt HPS-dual spectrum ?
@leigh int uk doesnt need to be that expsensive to replace 1200 watt hps you would need roughly 600 lets say 650 watt of LED i recommend samsung f-strips that would cost you about 600-700€ depending on where you souce your aluminium
In Germany electricity cost is about 0,26€/kWh so the LED lamps armotise themselves even quicker.
That's crazy
Green gold.. Not crazy.. FACT OF LIFE.. BUT WE ROLL ON 🙏🍀🍀🍀
probably cause merkel closed down all the nuclear power stations...
@@ijulesy No, because households foot the green bills rather than indusrty.
It's so that the german economy isn't at a disatvantage.
i don't have any experience with HPS, only top bin led diode's, but i learn something today so thank you
Hid are better spread per bulb/light unit
@@НовиСадСрбија but you get more light for less energy and directed to your plants with led . When light is spread it s not directed at your plants . So how can that be good?????
@@НовиСадСрбија no they aren't lol!
Most quantum kits are panels, either multi board on one large heatsink, or seperate panels. By their very dimensions, and/or seperation they are inherently more efficient with spread (area covered) per watt.
My two 300W panels, each with 800 Samsung diodes per panel, each of them 1' wide and 3' long, have WAY better coverage than the 1000W, single light point HID they replace.
There is no comparison in the efficiency of coverage.
Hi. So wich one Is better? Thanks.
But has people actually tested led boards to last years with no damage on the chips?
Is there any led that has only red yellow and orange? I wanted to use a metal halide for uv and led for the other end of the spectrum
Great explanation, I like your light intensity overlays showing what the eyes and camera can't see. You always do a great job. Are you going to keep the peppers growing in there for a while?
Full spectrum led + 3100k cmh
Please could you test plants with classical music? That seems silly but I believe that have an effect on the plant grow. I try it actually and I hope that will have a positive effect. These beauties needs love like every lifes on earth.
You are joking right? HAHAHAAH
Argos Panoptès ur w funny one you
Chronos lol honestly, people have told me the same thing. They love music and spending time with them. They are living organisms just like us so nothing would surprise me lol
@@23lnp Not sure if troll or just stupid, can't be sure nowadays since even the most retarded people have access to internet.
Thanks Shane! Great vid as always!
Wanna say thanks for the Migro Veg my plants love in it!
Does that cost analysis take into account the bulb replacement in the his?
So im getting LED is better for small grows, what about in bigger tents or rooms? still go led ?
always go LED preferable DIY i recommend samsung f strips best bang for your buck with unmatched coverage
LOL I've got to say this you through the turd bomb out there funny I know it's your way of language. Thanks for what you do Shane keep up the good work happy Saturday stay cool peace out
Fortunately the LEDs' prices will become more affordable soon (without dealing with Alibaba), because 500€ is still a very steep price (and the major investment of your grow).
Once LEDS' prices will become as cheap as HID, let's say you pay 250-300€ for the Migro set up, LEDs will take >90% of the market (and blurples and even HID will be very marginal, due to lack of reading about that subject).
Thank you Shane for the infos.
The LEDs are only a little component of the overall cost. ~35€. The highest cost of a single-COB setup is the driver.
Do you keep the lights you. Test.?
What about leaf temp on the Led?
Hesitant to make the full LED leap. My HPS however is very inefficient compared to equivalent LED. Once i feel i can absorb the initial investment i may be making the change though. Considering fluence strips. Any opinions out there? Splitting my 5'x5' tent into 2ea 30"x60" tents. Looking to be around 600w hps equivalent in each tent. Other than fluence type strips what's comparable with best canopy penetration?
@GBH all things to consider. I'm still in the planning stages. My current situation using 1k hps is working, but at my novice level just not cost effective. I'd like to get more efficient while utilizing my current footprint and rearranging tents. I hate reaching into a 5' depth tent, so my first concern was tent size. Want same sq ft but half depth. Two tents side by side. Identical light set up or maybe different so i can experiment. We'll see. I like the cobs for canopy penetration. I like the strips for efficiency. Mixing would be great. It all adds up quick so I'm really just kind of fishing for ideas right now. Ideally, I'd love to run 3ea cobs and 4 ea fluence strips covering a 30" x 60" footprint. Dreaming. 😂😂😂 My knowledge of proper LED coverage and efficiency is lacking, but that's why i hang around here. These reviews rock. And Shane, if you're reading, thanks for doing these videos. Very informative for the average Joe.
@GBH I've been perpetual for two years now, working in a 10' x 12' room with multiple tents. G-room schedule is slightly chaotic at times, but i have the process down. Cuttings and veg in a fashion that allows half the flower tent to be harvested every 4-5 wks. Now, my focus is efficiency of equipment. I went old school hps for awhile. Now I'm looking to led. Considering my tent footprint as the standard, I'm attempting to optimize the lighting options now. More research.... 😁😁😁
Another great vid, cheers Shane. 2.5x investment over 3 years and thats not taking into account the amount of cmh bulbs you might use in that time at about £50 to £80 per bulb, if you want to dial in the spectrum you need 2 bulbs.
Cmh is close to plants isnt it?
I find 16 inches for a 630 is best
Love watching your shows. So informative
You selling the lense on the light you designed good job I would like to see it go side by side with a CMH with a philips bulb not some bullshit bulb I bet second week of flower your mind will be blown.
This guy is full of shit... All the time...
Led lights are the biggest scam since voting
How do shain awesome information. 12 months in with my migro 100! Love IT. also got an e s 180 same time. L E D all the way ! Beast yielded and quality ever! Looking forward to the review of the e s 300 ? Do u sell them t shirts.?
Thanks Shane!
Hi, what height do you recommend i maintain above my plants with a 630 cmh light?? thank you very much
hell my viparspectra P2000 puts out over 700 par, at 18 to 20 inches above the plants and only uses around 204 watts.
Would the HLG 300l v2 rspec do good in a 4x4?
What kind of warrenty does the migro 200 have?
Warranty of satisfaction ... will he be satisfied with your money? Let's just hope so.
I haven't seen you compare The quantum boards yet. Is that because it's far lower then what your testing? Can you explain why not quantum boards? Thanks for this comparison also. It sold me on COBs. But cobs and drivers aren't cheap that's why I was looking into the quantum boards they're cheaper and I can add red spectrum more. Your opinion sir. 🤗
Best result is hps and add a MH at mid flower.
Tried and true.
But CMH with added LED red might also do the trick. Or HPS + Blue LED + UV Fluorescent...
RUclipsr 'Ole Hippie' did a decent grow comparison.
Yeilds were just about dead even.
I'd definitely recommend a watch of it.
it's about finished product..LEDs cost a lot.if product is not better with led,why spend double.
What are the tent sizes? Thanks
4×2
@@nonamevids5105 My most stupid comment ever, since the information is right there at 0:12, haha! Thanks anyway
I use led and mh togeather and it kills
Just realized he wasn’t growing weed over halfway through
U start seeing things... Maybe you need a break.
if you hadden't said anything I would had not noticed.
Oh he does, he does 😉
Should run a inline fan in the hud tent
what led light is that
Good shit man, I wish I had all your gadets lol. I just have a PAR meter, laser temp gun and watt meter.
You don't need anymore gadgets your doing good on you vids.
Ben Willshaw thanks man 👍🏼
Very under-rated channal
Would love to get my hands on your lights.
I use both seems to make a tighter. Bud
Thank you for the honesty and non biest test.
*biased
how much for led about 600w i can build kits. Keep up the good work
Andy Smith i just built one from components and it cost a little more than 700 Canadian $. I got 3 panels and two red strips. Each panel has a 185 watt driver and the strips got their own. I can turn on and off just the way I need it and I can dim them too.
The panels can be run at ~300 each but anything over 185 I would need heatsinks
HLG has a nice 620 watt kit for $820 usd
I like how you put bigger plants under your light than the cmh 😆😆
If you want to grow lettuce buy led! But 20 degrees is too cold for growing a heat loving plant like weed, 25-28 degrees if ideal and it seems to me that the CMH is the best light unless you want to run a space heater and burn more electricity. I had two 315 CMH lights in a 4x5 tent and with the air temp around 85 degrees my leaf temp was at 71-73 degrees F, My plants grow strong and healthy and I get a pound a plant without spending a lot of money on lights that can't match the spectrum or produce infra red. The good old MH produces even more UV than the CMH and more blue as well. IF you use HPS you might want to know that the Hortilux super HPS puts out 10-15% more blue than any of the other HPS bulbs out there, are made in the USA not CHINA, and last twice as long, I swear by them. Normally I don't mess around with small lights but got three 315 CMH's for the price of the bulbs so i'm trying two them out in a 4x8 along with a 400W HPS to see how the plants grow, I expect a lot more vegetive growth right through flower but I've been wrong before, The bulbs i"m using in the CMH are Phillips 3100K to give them the best chance of flowering without too much vegetive growth.
I also have been adding UVB using two California grow lights 24 W florescent UVB fixtures and have to say that I wish I had them thirty years ago! Shane sells a very similar fixture, They are well worth the money especially if you make extracts! but use them sparingly in the last three weaks of flower because they WILL burn your plants.
Shane love you contents, can you test mars hydro ts 1000 👍🏻
I think he already did do oneof them. 1000or 2000 they were ok.
@@cannabisconcentration1347 seen the vid cheers
I need one .. Or 3
I guess you guys have never heard of cmh lighting cos if you did you wouldnt even consider hps !
Love the vids man, I'm guessing you won't see this but what are you thoughts on the Crecer Lighting fixtures? it looks like they are getting crazy efficacy.
Hey Migro! I was wondering if you would give me permission to share this information on our website? We are trying to educate people about the benefits of LED over HID and this would be very useful for people who view our page.
Put a more efficient reflector on your cmh you will have much better results. My cmh is in a 2'x4' and it the highest it gets is 80°f.
I got a Voost and wouldnt use a glass unit ever again...
"I grow with migro"
So what happens at 50k hours when I have to replace the led that costs 3 x the price of the cmh? Replacing a bulb after 10k hours is one thing but to save some cash on electricity just to have to buy a completely new fixture? Lol
Skewed test due to CMH way to low...mine is as high as my 7 ft tall tent will allow...i get good coverage
Green Reaper well then your par is even lower
Dude come on, I've run 84 315 bulbs for 2 years and they dont produce like that
You have a bit of noel Gallagher about you mate, great content by the way
Glad it wasn't me just thinking the same
200° hps crap,get that crap back into a parking lot.
People starting out now should never know or own any HID system, spend the couple more dollars and get an led if your poor get some bloomspect 300 watt models with secondary lenses those are great for introduction to LEDs, hell I still use them in one of my tents, I'm slowly upgrading to DIY type led grow lights.
I have both but can tell by looking cmh is more of all light than led side by side led still gets bleached out. 630 watts of cmh is still more than 480 watts of r spec quantum boards. I have new copies of each i just use the cmh the led is nice still. Ive spots for it. So fucking bright it hurts.
LED and HPS they have a place in the growing community everything that I've done HPS get you bigger fruit turn all around better light to me on a light mover that's where it's at buy a $61 bulb once year if you grow all year LED for a real good one $1,500 up I don't have that kind of money I had a $300 LED it worked good 2 years burnout he he he
Build your own DIY COB LED fixture!!! For example one LUMINUS CXM22 COB per square foot, best coverage possible run each cob @25 watts in veg and 35watts in flower....have one cob per square foot is optimum cover!!!! And you can build your light as big as needed. Much love! Got me a 2x2 area light build with four cobs.....with the driver and all other materials about 150-170$ to cover a 2x2 in the best way possible! Cant beat that! with only 100 watt power consumption in veg and 140 watts in flower!
@@tiredoflies6247 thanks for the reply. Yeah I 3 Cobbs right now going to try to save up and get a few more and then I'll buy my driver yeah you can build a better light just about third of the price and you'll have a better light thanks for the info have a good grow day sir
@@krustyoldsmoker85 yeah check out digikey.com for your parts....get the meanwell drivers, luminus cobs....some l bracket aluminum pieces for your frame build...aluminum heatsinks a couple of yoyo hangers....bjb holders without any lenses or refelctors....too much light loss......just go straight with the bjb holders for a luminus cxm 22 per square foot no reflextors needed, passiv coold with the right aluminum hatsinks....boom best coverage ever....oh yeah and get the CXM 22 in 3500k 90cri......by luminus, the 90 cri for more red and fater buds! much love brother be smart!
@@tiredoflies6247 i would recommend to buy Samsung F-strips for better coverage and even lower temps and you dont need large heatsinks 300$ for 300watts
Great 👍🏻 video. Super explanation and comparison.
They have the metal halide with an extension cord so you don't have the transformer in the tent
Can we see more on your new 5K Veg light?
Yeah but LED doesn’t have UV and infrared.
Mine do. 😘
Matthew Brus yeah you can get them but they’re expensive. I’m talking about the other 98% of LED systems on the market right now
@@ObjectiveAnalysis
*"you can get them but they’re expensive"*
it's not like they're prohibitively expensive; they last much longer than hps, and they're much cheaper to run than hps. expenses have to be factored over time.
*"right now"*
those are key words. they _are_ available, and affordability has nowhere to go but down (or would that be up?). the technology's in its infancy, while hps has pretty much peaked.
KEvron
@@ObjectiveAnalysis $89 rapidled exotic led strip over my 5x2. Installed it last night. Supplementing 8 2700k qb132s.
Most of all have uv and ir now and leds are cheap actually it’s just company over charge light dat they buy from others
Great video mate !!!!
I recommend watching this video at 1.25x speed:)
LED OVERALL ARE CHEAPER if your a closet grower and last years no bulb and this year are a booming competition
you can even move led drivers into another room .
only reason you would want a metal halide would be if your house was cold and you need the extra wasted heat!.