At the 5:40 timeline, you should have filled the hole in the masonry with silicone then embedded the outlet box in the silicone. Also, I hope you did not silicone the bottom of the box. The bottom should never be siliconed so as to allow any water that might enter the back of the box to drain out.
2:40 Thank you for this! Too many tutorials don't show this specific, but necessary piece where you buy an outdoor outlet box with 1/2" or 3/4" screw holes and need to run the wires from the rear of the box (not through a metal conduit). I wish I saw this video beforehand--I went with a PVC version of it, but it has an opening for a pipe instead.
That old outlet looks like something I might have found on my old house. I've found a lot of "what were they thinking when they did this?" things. It hasn't been dull!
1:50 - That outlet is also wired backwards with the white wire on the hot side and the black on the neutral side. So this was completely a hack job. Best to remove everything and start a new circuit from scratch.
Appreciate the video. I was doing some research for this project, and this video taught me about the Service Entrance connector needed for the back. Perfect!
The cable size should be based on the circuit, not on the ampacity of the receptacle, as you did at 3:18. 15 amp receptacles are allowed on 20 amp circuits, and the choice in most cases. With a few limited exceptions, you cannot tap 14 gauge cable off of a 20 amp circuit. That said, it appears that the original cable to the exterior receptacle (which was done incorrectly on so many levels) was 12 gauge, while the conductors in the J-box are 14 gauge, making the choice of 14-2 UF to the replacement setup correct anyway. I am assuming the breaker is 15 amp. As an added note, bathroom, kitchen and laundry GFCI circuits are required to be 20 amp, while exterior GFCIs can be on a 15 or 20 amp circuit.
Thank you. I was trying to make this point at work. The breaker protects all down stream components. So the cable only needs to be larger than the breaker rating. I'm surprised that a 15a receptacle is allowed on a 20a breaker. Did this mean the receptacle will burn up if 20a is pulled on it? I guess it is highly unlikely for that to happen. Just seen odd.
@@Jaze2022 Anything that draws between 15a and 20a has a different style plug that will only fit into a 20a receptacle, while a 15a plug will fit both 15a and 20a receptacles. You may have noticed that 20a receptacles have a T shaped neutral slot. On a 20a plug, the neutral is perpendicular to the hot, rather than parallel as with 15a plugs.
Glad to see you filled in those holes, I kept thinking about the holes being future nesting sites for spiders. btw Excellent Video! I saved this vid so I can have it at the ready when I put in 2 outlets 1 inside and 1 out - even though I am terrified of electricity. I have put in a dimmer but couldn't complete a different one b/c it needed to be a "3rd pole outlet" the light also had two switches to it) anyway the "handyman" hired for the day looked at me like *I* had 3 heads, so I bagged it up for another day. Maybe today will be the day to complete it this time and task the handyman with building a fence, he seems to be better at projects needing more brawn than... Again, Thanks the Video
Good DIY upgrade. The old outlet looks scary. Open to rain. Since getting a bone spur on my thumb I like the Wago style wire connectors. COAX cable coming out of the window frame?
Yikes, that old outlet was scary! Whenever I use the screw punch-outs on the back of a weathertight box, I like to put a dab of silicone around the holes before mounting it. Especially with a porous surface like brick, you'd be surprised how much mosture can make it's way in through the screw holes in the form of water vapor. When sealing the box to the wall, I like to leave an inch (ish) along the bottom edge unsealed, just to allow egress of any water that does behind there so it doesn't stay sealed in.
Good job only critique I can give is I only caulk the top and two sides in theory if water got behind it the water can then escape through the bottom and not be trapped
@@tylerwatt12 It's allowed for self-grounding receptacles, which usually have a brass clip on one of the yokes. However, not all receptacles are rated as self-grounding (meaning you can't count on the yoke and/or tabs making proper electrical contact with the box).
I always use Rawl or Fischer plugs in masonry. I find it much easier to remove the screw and put it back than with tapcons, though when I can convince myself the thing will never come out, I do use the tapcons (it's just harder and harder for me to convince myself, the older I get). Also, I always use the all aluminum in-use covers. I like the look of the plastic when its new, but all the ones I've tried turn yellow pretty fast, and I prefer the grey metal to those.
The wires in the basement are NOT run thru the joists but under the joists. A no no. What a house. Everywhere you look, more shortcuts. Looking for WR designated on the GFCI.
Great video. Three questions: 1) Even though you screw the box to the brick and seal around the box afterwards, do you not recommend securing the connector to the brick with sealant or mortar as well for extra weather (and draft) protection? Or do you seal the holes from the inside sufficiently? 2) Would you recommend (or not) using conduit when passing Romex through the brick and wall, or is the wire Romex cover sufficient? 3) I moved into a new house last year, and while all of the outdoor plugs are GFCI, they are not weather resistant (but all have weatherproof boxes). One outlet blew (without use) within 6 months and I replaced it with a WR/TR version. My place passed inspection (for what it's worth), but is there any harm in just using them until they fail, or should I replace them with WR/TR?
Hey boss, very nice job. I have a related question. If you had the time, and were doing this on your place, would you cut the brick and inset the box? I'm not sure how you'd secure an inset box to brick, or in my case cinder block. Or would you do just the same as you've done here. The tap cons look quite ... brittle? being that close to the open hole, especially with brick. Any advice on insetting the box? Thanks!
hello, did not see in your "supplies used" the link for the connector that was treaded into the box? or did I just miss it? thank you for all your content. been a great learning experience for me.
Looked like that middle neutral on the wago connector was not all the way down, and the wire had slipped out a small amount before you put that junction plate on. Just pointing it out in case you are still around that house- you may want to double check.
Thanks for the heads up but I don't think it backed up. The middle neutral wire in the Wago lever nut did have a bit more wire stripped as compared to the others.
Once you drill holes in that box it is no longer considered weatherproof. There are tabs that go on through the back of the box that you are to use to mount the box to the wall. Otherwise everything else looks okay.
Hey it’s the newbie again, just trying to learn and understand all these wonderful videos. Is it possible since there are no diagrams of the wiring jobs you do, to ask you prior to closing up boxes to explain the layouts of the internals please. On the left side I saw a neutral & hot in a wire nut. I did not understand that? Sorry.
Extra emphasis: Outdoor GFCI receptacles must be Weather Rated (WR). Non WR will not hold up and will do strange things. I prefer, if possible, to use a plain weather rated receptacle with the GFCI indoors, either downstream from another GFCI receptacle or fed from a GFCI breaker.
Interesting, my house has a non weather rated outlet near the front door that has worked fine for around 20 years, It's likely also gotten a bit wet in that time due to the cover being a low profile cover (that doesn't cover the outlet while it's in use) and not an in-use cover (since it's used a lot for Christmas lights, and windy rain has proved it can get it wet, even though it's under an overhang), last time I tested it, it still tripped, and it tends to trip when a faulty string of lights conducts to ground. I do plan on replacing the cover with an in-use cover (like the one in the video), but as of right now, I don't see any reason to replace the outlet.
@@davidkahler9390 Eaton WR GFCI receptacles use a lot of nickel plated components instead of plain brass. The non-WR versions will internally corrode inside these in use covers since they do not breathe the best, and water vapor can condense internally without precipitation.
The one drawback with the reset button indoors is when you have to reset it multiple times. This thought just came to light. Does extending the length of wiring and additional energized surfaces make any changes in sensitivity?
The exterior outlet you took off was wired backward. When looking at the face, the black hot should always be on the right and the white neutral needs to be on the left.
Like always check your local regulations for outside GFCI installation. Here in Ontario, Canada local outside GFCI installation requires all outdoor outlets are to be 20amp GFCI and each outdoor outlet is required to be on its own breaker. Main reason for this is incase you need to use a vehicle block heater there is enough amperage to handle them.
If you can find them, the Leviton in-use covers are 10x better than the Hubbel/Taymac, which leave little room for error on the back foam seal, and feel cheesy in general. I also like to use both sets of screws through the cover back plate, one holds the receptacle tight to the housing, the other set pulls the assembly against the box or wall nice and tight.
Hey Scott that outlet kit has a lot of reviews that it’s not a true gfci outlet is that true? I almost bought it but ended up spending $5 more from Home Depot for a similar kit.
Is UF wire required on an exterior wall mounted outlet? I always understood it to be Underground Feeder when going to things like outbuildings and lamp posts. And that normal NM type romex could be used here.
Yes you are correct, and I would use 12ga instead of 14 for any outlets wether 15/20amps. 14 should only be used for lighting, that’s how it’s out here in cali.
I have been informed by an electrical engineer, and have a failed outlet, that NM Romex should not be used in exterior outlets due to the paper between the wires. Paper absorbs and holds moisture which can corrode the wiring inside. Thoughts?
For a code proper job, the wires should have been cut 8” outside the box, and the grounding conductor needs to be wrapped around the ground screw on the outside box. Then there will still be 6” of grounding conductor left outside the box for the GFCI receptacle. Also, make sure the GFCI outlet is WR rated… outdoor receptacles need to have the weather rating.
Hey Scott! Really like your videos.... and they have cost me money by the way for things I see in them, tools, electrical connectors and the like. But, WOW! Where do you find stuff like that and other situations you have shown? Not an electrician either but I would think any reasonable person would know better. Especially with all of the research available out there today. JimE
Basic electrical connecting, ground and neutral tapped first and last to be removed. Saftey first, even if the power is turned off one needs to work as if it is hot, there will be a time when you can't turn off all supply.
For an outside outlet is 15 amps good enough or is it better to install a 25 amp receptacle? Also is it better to install it directly to a new 15 or 25 amp breaker in the breaker box? I’m new to all this and interested in installing an outdoor outlet in my house. Thanks!
There's no 25 amp receptacle or breaker. For a typical home 120 volt system it's either 15 or 20 amp receptacles, breakers, and circuits. 20 amp circuit is better for outdoor use. Whether you add a new circuit or add to an existing one would depend on the power being used already and the expected load for the outdoor use. The are 240 volt systems with 30, 40, 50 amps but are usually used for specific equipment such as a clothes dryer for example. The plug and receptacle are not compatible with the standard 120 volt 15 amp receptacles found throughout the home. Every home has 240 volt capability already, so it's not difficult to add if necessary.
What about when you go to replace an external wall light (round base) and discover that the existing round base light was installed on a rectangular outlet box with no weatherstripping? Going through this now….
The old outlet was wired backwards too, the hot & neutral were reversed LOL! What a friggin’ mess! Hey I thought you had to run wire through conduit or a sleeve if it was coming through masonry work, no?
@@LucasGresham610 interesting, thought that was the way it had to be done. When I did my patio outlets 25 years ago I used regular Romex through the cinder block and into the back of the box. Last winter the snow piled up against that side of the house and when it melted the whole pile shifted and ripped the box off the wall. It cut the Romex off and shorted it to the box, that’s when I thought I screwed up and should have used rigid conduit attached to the box. When I re-do it I’m going to sleeve it, I’m surprised that it’s not required.
I see you left one wire nut, and it appears to have a hot (black) & neutral ( white) wire nut together. When would a homeowner have a black & white wire connected together in an electrical Box?
It is most likely the switch leg from a switch, where they used the black in the romex for the constant hot, and the white in the romex as the returning switch leg. it is required to be colored with a wrap of tape or other means but in this case it is not
@@grandn8646 I'm sure the standard set up for outlets has gone back for at least 50 years. NEC establishes a uniform standard so you are less likely to make mistakes just because your using a different brand product. Also The first requirement for grounded receptacles in residential construction dates back to 1951 when the NEC (National Electrical Code) required laundry areas to have grounded receptacles. In 1971, the National Electrical Code (NEC) required grounded receptacles in all locations of the home (effective January 1, 1974).
If you wanted to make that outside a double outlet, would you just add the load from the GFCI to the second outlet? And also use a double outdoor gang box? Would you do anything else?
I’m trying to understand your question. Both of the outlets on the receptacle he installed are powered and functional. He could have installed a double gang box and two receptacles (four outlets total), in which case the second receptacle would have been connected to the “Load” side of the GFCI he installed, thus giving GFCI protection to the second receptacle’s outlets.
Question: Does the upgraded outdoor outlet cover have to be so large? Is that the code now? I've always seen the older single spring loaded covers but these new ones are huge. I'm wondering if this is just how it is now... you have to have this giant cover over the outlet?
No it doesn't. You can just use a standard outlet and put an outdoor cover on it. The outdoor cover is aluminum with insulation in it and has spring loaded doors for each plug to keep them closed when not in use. What he did was was overkill and expensive because you don't have to do all that unless you want to.
There's several options that are smaller, including ones that "expand" when you need to plug in something and collapse back when not in use. I used a large plastic cover like he did for a small pool pump plug. Needed the room.
@star gazer That is incorrect. You cannot use a standard receptacle for exterior use. Per NEC 210.8A, you must use a Weather Resistant(WR), Tamper Resistant (TR) GFCI protected receptacle. You can use different covers if you do not like the look of the bubble covers. Taymac and other manufacturers offer different aesthetically pleasing options.
he mentioned one of the wires was for a light. Probably a switch loop. Although the white wire is supposed to be marked as hot in such cases. I've seen it done with either a paint pen , or electrical tape (liquid or roll). Black or red. I usually mark unswitched hots as black and switched hots as red in such cases. I also use this color scheme when split wiring outlets.
I love how angry the old outlet looks.
I thought the same thing
Me too, angry robot. 😡😁
That’s what I was thinking also…. Need to keep it and sharpie some eyebrows on it.
i thought that too
I said the same thing. Old outlet is ornery!
GREAT channel !!!! No annoying music & straight to the point with no "FLUFF". THANK YOU & I'm a new subscriber 😊
Welcome to the channel John 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs THANKS !
At the 5:40 timeline, you should have filled the hole in the masonry with silicone then embedded the outlet box in the silicone. Also, I hope you did not silicone the bottom of the box. The bottom should never be siliconed so as to allow any water that might enter the back of the box to drain out.
Good to know! Thank you 🧠 🙏
2:40 Thank you for this! Too many tutorials don't show this specific, but necessary piece where you buy an outdoor outlet box with 1/2" or 3/4" screw holes and need to run the wires from the rear of the box (not through a metal conduit). I wish I saw this video beforehand--I went with a PVC version of it, but it has an opening for a pipe instead.
That old outlet looks like something I might have found on my old house. I've found a lot of "what were they thinking when they did this?" things. It hasn't been dull!
I used that box and cover to replace an older box on my shed a few months ago. So far its held up to all the rain we have had in the northeast.
1:50 - That outlet is also wired backwards with the white wire on the hot side and the black on the neutral side. So this was completely a hack job. Best to remove everything and start a new circuit from scratch.
I saw that too. Pretty bad. Whomever installed the receptacle did absolutely EVERYTHING wrong.
Appreciate the video. I was doing some research for this project, and this video taught me about the Service Entrance connector needed for the back. Perfect!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge , it is so appreciated how well you explain things.
With a masonry vibrasaw you can cut out the brick, and set a flush box outdoor cover, amazing look, I love them.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Love your content. Can't wait to see you do your garage floor. The exterior box should be bonded
The cable size should be based on the circuit, not on the ampacity of the receptacle, as you did at 3:18. 15 amp receptacles are allowed on 20 amp circuits, and the choice in most cases. With a few limited exceptions, you cannot tap 14 gauge cable off of a 20 amp circuit.
That said, it appears that the original cable to the exterior receptacle (which was done incorrectly on so many levels) was 12 gauge, while the conductors in the J-box are 14 gauge, making the choice of 14-2 UF to the replacement setup correct anyway. I am assuming the breaker is 15 amp.
As an added note, bathroom, kitchen and laundry GFCI circuits are required to be 20 amp, while exterior GFCIs can be on a 15 or 20 amp circuit.
Thank you. I was trying to make this point at work. The breaker protects all down stream components. So the cable only needs to be larger than the breaker rating. I'm surprised that a 15a receptacle is allowed on a 20a breaker. Did this mean the receptacle will burn up if 20a is pulled on it? I guess it is highly unlikely for that to happen. Just seen odd.
@@Jaze2022 Anything that draws between 15a and 20a has a different style plug that will only fit into a 20a receptacle, while a 15a plug will fit both 15a and 20a receptacles.
You may have noticed that 20a receptacles have a T shaped neutral slot. On a 20a plug, the neutral is perpendicular to the hot, rather than parallel as with 15a plugs.
I like ur content. I’m also in west central Illinois right on the Mississippi, so most everything you cover, applies to me. Thanks
That old outlet need to be in the smith onion museum. Well done job
😂 that thing was beat up!
Glad to see you filled in those holes, I kept thinking about the holes being future nesting sites for spiders. btw Excellent Video! I saved this vid so I can have it at the ready when I put in 2 outlets 1 inside and 1 out - even though I am terrified of electricity. I have put in a dimmer but couldn't complete a different one b/c it needed to be a "3rd pole outlet" the light also had two switches to it) anyway the "handyman" hired for the day looked at me like *I* had 3 heads, so I bagged it up for another day. Maybe today will be the day to complete it this time and task the handyman with building a fence, he seems to be better at projects needing more brawn than... Again, Thanks the Video
Good DIY upgrade. The old outlet looks scary. Open to rain. Since getting a bone spur on my thumb I like the Wago style wire connectors. COAX cable coming out of the window frame?
Yikes, that old outlet was scary! Whenever I use the screw punch-outs on the back of a weathertight box, I like to put a dab of silicone around the holes before mounting it. Especially with a porous surface like brick, you'd be surprised how much mosture can make it's way in through the screw holes in the form of water vapor. When sealing the box to the wall, I like to leave an inch (ish) along the bottom edge unsealed, just to allow egress of any water that does behind there so it doesn't stay sealed in.
Hey Marc, thanks for the feedback 👍
Might also put sealant on the backside of the box before mounting it to the wall.
Excellent presentation. Covered the necessary steps and made it easy to follow.
Good job only critique I can give is I only caulk the top and two sides in theory if water got behind it the water can then escape through the bottom and not be trapped
I appreciate your use of Wago 221s. By far the best solution.
I have switched over 95% of my wire connections to Wago 221. I think they are great for DIYers.
Nice job. I wish I had all your tools and all the materials needed. I guess you will save a lot by diy. - TAV ♥️🇺🇸🌎
I didn't see where you grounded the outside box, or did you use a self-grounding outlet? Nice video and channel.
Noticed that too, thought he might have used a plastic box instead but that’s definitely a metal one.
@@LzysGraphics It's grounded through the metal mounting tabs on the outlet touching the outlet box. Isn't that allowed?
@@tylerwatt12 It's allowed for self-grounding receptacles, which usually have a brass clip on one of the yokes. However, not all receptacles are rated as self-grounding (meaning you can't count on the yoke and/or tabs making proper electrical contact with the box).
@@tylerwatt12 nope… not by code.
@@tylerwatt12 those clips are for grounding the outlet in a grounded box… not for grounding the metal box…
I always use Rawl or Fischer plugs in masonry. I find it much easier to remove the screw and put it back than with tapcons, though when I can convince myself the thing will never come out, I do use the tapcons (it's just harder and harder for me to convince myself, the older I get). Also, I always use the all aluminum in-use covers. I like the look of the plastic when its new, but all the ones I've tried turn yellow pretty fast, and I prefer the grey metal to those.
Outstanding video! Thanks, Albert
The wires in the basement are NOT run thru the joists but under the joists. A no no.
What a house. Everywhere you look, more shortcuts. Looking for WR designated on the
GFCI.
Thanks for the feedback Ted. This house needs a little love for sure but honestly it is in much better shape as compared to when we got it.
I was wondering about the location of the junction box. Is it supposed to be on the bottom of a floor joist? I’ve been told it’s not.
Silicone behind the box would be a good idea. Thanks for sharing.
Nice. I leave the bottom of the box uncaulked in order to allow water out, though it's not much of a issue against brick that's drained properly.
Great video. Three questions:
1) Even though you screw the box to the brick and seal around the box afterwards, do you not recommend securing the connector to the brick with sealant or mortar as well for extra weather (and draft) protection? Or do you seal the holes from the inside sufficiently?
2) Would you recommend (or not) using conduit when passing Romex through the brick and wall, or is the wire Romex cover sufficient?
3) I moved into a new house last year, and while all of the outdoor plugs are GFCI, they are not weather resistant (but all have weatherproof boxes). One outlet blew (without use) within 6 months and I replaced it with a WR/TR version. My place passed inspection (for what it's worth), but is there any harm in just using them until they fail, or should I replace them with WR/TR?
They just will not last as long outside I would just wait till they go and replace them as they fail that’s all
Hey boss, very nice job. I have a related question. If you had the time, and were doing this on your place, would you cut the brick and inset the box? I'm not sure how you'd secure an inset box to brick, or in my case cinder block. Or would you do just the same as you've done here. The tap cons look quite ... brittle? being that close to the open hole, especially with brick. Any advice on insetting the box? Thanks!
hello, did not see in your "supplies used" the link for the connector that was treaded into the box? or did I just miss it? thank you for all your content. been a great learning experience for me.
lever wago 221?
Thank you.
OMG you would never see something that dangous in the uk!
Looked like that middle neutral on the wago connector was not all the way down, and the wire had slipped out a small amount before you put that junction plate on. Just pointing it out in case you are still around that house- you may want to double check.
Thanks for the heads up but I don't think it backed up. The middle neutral wire in the Wago lever nut did have a bit more wire stripped as compared to the others.
You need to ground the box to the green ground screw. Required by NEC for metal boxes.
Once you drill holes in that box it is no longer considered weatherproof. There are tabs that go on through the back of the box that you are to use to mount the box to the wall. Otherwise everything else looks okay.
With the caulk and how tight those screws are going to be I don't see any water getting in there anytime soon.
Hey it’s the newbie again, just trying to learn and understand all these wonderful videos.
Is it possible since there are no diagrams of the wiring jobs you do, to ask you prior to closing up boxes to explain the layouts of the internals please. On the left side I saw a neutral & hot in a wire nut.
I did not understand that? Sorry.
For sure, thanks for the feedback!
Extra emphasis: Outdoor GFCI receptacles must be Weather Rated (WR). Non WR will not hold up and will do strange things. I prefer, if possible, to use a plain weather rated receptacle with the GFCI indoors, either downstream from another GFCI receptacle or fed from a GFCI breaker.
Interesting, my house has a non weather rated outlet near the front door that has worked fine for around 20 years, It's likely also gotten a bit wet in that time due to the cover being a low profile cover (that doesn't cover the outlet while it's in use) and not an in-use cover (since it's used a lot for Christmas lights, and windy rain has proved it can get it wet, even though it's under an overhang), last time I tested it, it still tripped, and it tends to trip when a faulty string of lights conducts to ground. I do plan on replacing the cover with an in-use cover (like the one in the video), but as of right now, I don't see any reason to replace the outlet.
This channel actually already covered this very topic. Turns out WR just uses stainless for the yoke, but is otherwise identical.
@@davidkahler9390 Eaton WR GFCI receptacles use a lot of nickel plated components instead of plain brass. The non-WR versions will internally corrode inside these in use covers since they do not breathe the best, and water vapor can condense internally without precipitation.
New 2020 code wants you to use ark/GFI breakers instead of outlets. They cost more, of course.
The one drawback with the reset button indoors is when you have to reset it multiple times. This thought just came to light. Does extending the length of wiring and additional energized surfaces make any changes in sensitivity?
Looks very scary. Worse than mine. EXCELLENT JOB. I CAN UPDATE MY EXTERIOR TO CODE. THANK YOU AND HAVE A BLESSED THANKSGIVING .
Thanks and you too 👍
Running that UF cable thru EMT would have been a good idea as well.
Great video!
Nice and clean job
Those connectors are good!!!!! I use those
Very well explained
Please add the Wago wire connectors to your "supplies" list.
4:02 Had me flinching and closing my eyes! Haha!
The exterior outlet you took off was wired backward. When looking at the face, the black hot should always be on the right and the white neutral needs to be on the left.
People should look into using ductseal as well as silicone stuff is plumbers putty for sparks
Another great video.
Very good
Interesting video!
Thanks!
I like how this guy does work in a gym shirt.
Like always check your local regulations for outside GFCI installation.
Here in Ontario, Canada local outside GFCI installation requires all outdoor outlets are to be 20amp GFCI and each outdoor outlet is required to be on its own breaker. Main reason for this is incase you need to use a vehicle block heater there is enough amperage to handle them.
If you can find them, the Leviton in-use covers are 10x better than the Hubbel/Taymac, which leave little room for error on the back foam seal, and feel cheesy in general.
I also like to use both sets of screws through the cover back plate, one holds the receptacle tight to the housing, the other set pulls the assembly against the box or wall nice and tight.
Excellent job
Thank you for the info
Great
I have work to do 🙏😋🤗👍👍
Sweet! Thank you!!!
Hey Scott that outlet kit has a lot of reviews that it’s not a true gfci outlet is that true? I almost bought it but ended up spending $5 more from Home Depot for a similar kit.
Aren't you supposed to vacuum out the dust from the hole before you tap con screws?
Yes you should.
Thank you for good video. Why did you use underground feed romex?
Is UF wire required on an exterior wall mounted outlet? I always understood it to be Underground Feeder when going to things like outbuildings and lamp posts. And that normal NM type romex could be used here.
Yes you are correct, and I would use 12ga instead of 14 for any outlets wether 15/20amps. 14 should only be used for lighting, that’s how it’s out here in cali.
I have been informed by an electrical engineer, and have a failed outlet, that NM Romex should not be used in exterior outlets due to the paper between the wires. Paper absorbs and holds moisture which can corrode the wiring inside. Thoughts?
Any advice for mounting a box to a house with paper based sheathing?
For a code proper job, the wires should have been cut 8” outside the box, and the grounding conductor needs to be wrapped around the ground screw on the outside box. Then there will still be 6” of grounding conductor left outside the box for the GFCI receptacle.
Also, make sure the GFCI outlet is WR rated… outdoor receptacles need to have the weather rating.
Hey Scott! Really like your videos.... and they have cost me money by the way for things I see in them, tools, electrical connectors and the like.
But, WOW! Where do you find stuff like that and other situations you have shown? Not an electrician either but I would think any reasonable person would know better. Especially with all of the research available out there today. JimE
Basic electrical connecting, ground and neutral tapped first and last to be removed. Saftey first, even if the power is turned off one needs to work as if it is hot, there will be a time when you can't turn off all supply.
I have seen that outlet hanging out in a old house that was part of open house! It was a WR outlet but it was hanging out which Isent safe
Thank You Sir
Wow the wiring for the hot and neutral was reversed
Nice work. I have a similar situation I have to work on. Btw, have you ever used Wago lever nuts? I swear by them.
Have I ever! I have a supply of 2, 3, and 5 pin Wago 221 in my electrical parts box. I think Wago 221 is the best bet for DIYers. 👍
You did not include the wire seal nut part in your list of parts.
For an outside outlet is 15 amps good enough or is it better to install a 25 amp receptacle? Also is it better to install it directly to a new 15 or 25 amp breaker in the breaker box? I’m new to all this and interested in installing an outdoor outlet in my house. Thanks!
There's no 25 amp receptacle or breaker. For a typical home 120 volt system it's either 15 or 20 amp receptacles, breakers, and circuits. 20 amp circuit is better for outdoor use. Whether you add a new circuit or add to an existing one would depend on the power being used already and the expected load for the outdoor use.
The are 240 volt systems with 30, 40, 50 amps but are usually used for specific equipment such as a clothes dryer for example. The plug and receptacle are not compatible with the standard 120 volt 15 amp receptacles found throughout the home. Every home has 240 volt capability already, so it's not difficult to add if necessary.
@@surferdude642 thank you for all the good info!
Our outlet is attached to a metal pole in a gazebo. How can I cover it to make it weather proof?
Outside receptacles are suppose to be rated GFCI 20 Amp and you put holes inside box which now now rated for outdoor
They don't have to be 20a.
How come you didn't run the ground to the box grounding screw? I'm pretty sure you're supposed to do that, you could have done a pigtail or something.
What about when you go to replace an external wall light (round base) and discover that the existing round base light was installed on a rectangular outlet box with no weatherstripping? Going through this now….
Does the new exterior GFCI have to have a ground or can it be labeled “no ground” like you did for interior 2 wire GFCI?
That old outlet also has the hot and neutral reversed
The old outlet was wired backwards too, the hot & neutral were reversed LOL! What a friggin’ mess! Hey I thought you had to run wire through conduit or a sleeve if it was coming through masonry work, no?
Might depend on his local code but in my area No you do not need to sleeve it. He didn’t really even need the UF cable. You can use regular romex.
@@LucasGresham610 interesting, thought that was the way it had to be done. When I did my patio outlets 25 years ago I used regular Romex through the cinder block and into the back of the box. Last winter the snow piled up against that side of the house and when it melted the whole pile shifted and ripped the box off the wall. It cut the Romex off and shorted it to the box, that’s when I thought I screwed up and should have used rigid conduit attached to the box. When I re-do it I’m going to sleeve it, I’m surprised that it’s not required.
How do I put an extender on those boxes..my security camera plugs in and I
There is no room for another plug
And no WAGO connectors for the ground?
They make a 5-port Wago connector you could have used for the 4 grounds + the one box ground.
👍, I actually carry them in my truck. I always carry the 2, 3, and 5 pin lever nuts.
That box needs to be grounded on that green screw and you could have used NM since it never hits a wet location.
I see you left one wire nut, and it appears to have a hot (black) & neutral ( white) wire nut together. When would a homeowner have a black & white wire connected together in an electrical Box?
It is most likely the switch leg from a switch, where they used the black in the romex for the constant hot, and the white in the romex as the returning switch leg. it is required to be colored with a wrap of tape or other means but in this case it is not
Plus wasn't the Hot wire connected to the Common screw on the old outlet?
good catch, Yeah, Every outlet I've installed has the White ( common ) on the same side as the Ground. I'm assuming its a industry standard.
@@johnbarnett2804 I'm not sure about that standard. Did they have 3 prong outlets in 1957?
@@grandn8646 I'm sure the standard set up for outlets has gone back for at least 50 years. NEC establishes a uniform standard so you are less likely to make mistakes just because your using a different brand product.
Also The first requirement for grounded receptacles in residential construction dates back to 1951 when the NEC (National Electrical Code) required laundry areas to have grounded receptacles.
In 1971, the National Electrical Code (NEC) required grounded receptacles in all locations of the home (effective January 1, 1974).
@1:06 you can see how mad the old outlet is about being left out in the rain...:)
The red handle wire strippers are not list in the tools. What set of stripper was that?
thanks but have you made one on adding another outlet yes I'm so far behind.
Not yet, still on the list 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs oh thank you I was afraid
I see you had a hot and neutral joined with that yellow wire nut. How can that be?
You don’t have to connect the ground wire to the box itself (where the new GFCI is located)?
I’m pretty sure that box is plastic and there is no way to bond it. If it were a metal box, it would need to be bonded.
@@AtomicAJ74 While this may be correct, I think code requires you to connect to the boxes ground screw, even if only a formality in this situation
He may have used an outlet that bonds the box to the ground wire.
Eaton mentions this in their literature.
Wish you would’ve taken more time showing us where the cords go into the outlet.
Why do you ground the wire only to the outlet and not to the exterior metal box?
If you wanted to make that outside a double outlet, would you just add the load from the GFCI to the second outlet? And also use a double outdoor gang box? Would you do anything else?
I’m trying to understand your question. Both of the outlets on the receptacle he installed are powered and functional. He could have installed a double gang box and two receptacles (four outlets total), in which case the second receptacle would have been connected to the “Load” side of the GFCI he installed, thus giving GFCI protection to the second receptacle’s outlets.
Yes. That’s exactly how you would do that.
@@AtomicAJ74 yes, 4 outlets total. Sorry, it's much easier to visualize than explain!
Why did you not use the Wago for the ground wires?
Why do you need to run exterior romex if it's being fed from inside?
Question: Does the upgraded outdoor outlet cover have to be so large? Is that the code now? I've always seen the older single spring loaded covers but these new ones are huge. I'm wondering if this is just how it is now... you have to have this giant cover over the outlet?
No it doesn't. You can just use a standard outlet and put an outdoor cover on it. The outdoor cover is aluminum with insulation in it and has spring loaded doors for each plug to keep them closed when not in use. What he did was was overkill and expensive because you don't have to do all that unless you want to.
There's several options that are smaller, including ones that "expand" when you need to plug in something and collapse back when not in use. I used a large plastic cover like he did for a small pool pump plug. Needed the room.
@star gazer That is incorrect. You cannot use a standard receptacle for exterior use. Per NEC 210.8A, you must use a Weather Resistant(WR), Tamper Resistant (TR) GFCI protected receptacle. You can use different covers if you do not like the look of the bubble covers. Taymac and other manufacturers offer different aesthetically pleasing options.
👍🏻
Wired backwards. One clue is the ground and neutral are usually on the same side....
I noticed you had a blk and wht wired together in the junction box inside the house on the outside weather box installation
he mentioned one of the wires was for a light. Probably a switch loop. Although the white wire is supposed to be marked as hot in such cases. I've seen it done with either a paint pen , or electrical tape (liquid or roll). Black or red. I usually mark unswitched hots as black and switched hots as red in such cases. I also use this color scheme when split wiring outlets.
Btw, why didn't you use the brackets that come with that box
You can, I just liked how the internal holes were lining up on the brick. Nothing wrong with the external mounting ears.
What length do you drill for the screw?
I think making the wire shorter is also a issue instead of unscrewing it.
That 'before' was a disaster waiting to happen.