How to Install Outdoor Outlet from Indoor Outlet
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- Опубликовано: 29 апр 2023
- This is how to wire an outdoor GFCI outlet from an existing indoor outlet. Install a weather resistant outlet on your deck or patio.
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I got a bid for this exact project from a licensed electrician and he wanted $400. This is enough information to do this job by yourself. Thanks.
Glad to hear! As long as you have enough room on the circuit, it should work!
I was just quoted $750 for this exact job this morning in MD. Sent him packing.
This was an unexpected video, love your style! Made this enjoyable. Great work!
@@rhuynh Thank you!
@@atelierlacombe8446 I think that's why these electric videos are popular; because electricians don't want you to know that some of these things are not that complicated. Perhaps dangerous if you don't know what you're doing, but $750 to install a plug? That's a little crazy.
You're hilarious! I especially liked the "Mr. Grinch/Cat In the Hat" narration. Made it so much better! I'm subscribing just for that!
Hey thanks!! I try to make a boring subject somewhat fun and educational, so glad you got something out of it!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video and explain everything. Helped me to do this project myself
Glad it helped!!
Excellent video, thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it; hope it helped!
I can definitely use this information. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Engaging presentation and wonderfully informative. I plan to undertake this project in the near future and your video is just what I was looking for. Additionally, your voice is sooo soothing! You've got talents! Best wishes to you!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate the complement and hope the information helps!
thank you. I really enjoyed this. The video and narration were both excellent. Is there any reason that you didn’t use a weatherproof J box?
Thanks I appreciate that! I feel like the box I used was sufficient without looking ugly or overkill.
Step by step , to the point and spot on.
Thank you!
Dude this video was exactly what I was looking for? Thank you so much for making it.
Glad I could help!
Excellent info and super entertaining delivery! 😂😂 Nicely done and thank you!
I appreciate the feedback! Thank you!
Great video. I believe you did everything correctly when tapping from an indoor receptacle. Only thing that's not necessary is adding that metal NM connector inside the indoor outlet box. The Romex cable should still be in its place without it since it's secured in the box you installed outside.
Personally, I would use a junction box that is outdoor rated instead of this type of old work box. At least you put a WR receptacle and outlet cover, which is necessary and code for outdoors.
I agree with you. The metal connector isn't intended for this, but I had a bag of them and figured it wouldn't hurt. Are you thinking you would run a junction box and then rigid conduit to an outlet? Or put an outlet in a metal junction box? It would be interesting to see the different ways to do it and find out what looks the best and is the most functional/durable.
On stucco surface mount your box, use electrical putty for watertight seal around your penetration and hidden behind the watertight box
Interesting idea, I've not heard of that. What do you wrap the putty around? The whole box? I imagine that is like plumbers putty but specific for electrical applications?
@@KylersStudio its called duct seal
Great video. Subscribed. I bet a surface mount weatherproof box would’ve saved him a lot of time. And a smaller hole in the side of his house.
Are you saying just run a small hole with conduit out the hole into a box? That's a good point about a smaller hole.
Yes. Does Code allow for that? Because it seems like a lot less work. Aesthetically, of course having the box recessed looks a lot cleaner.
@@NathanHarrison7 Conduit and metal boxes would work, but I like the recessed look better for this application.
Great job
Thanks! Just doing what I can.
Taymac MR420CG (Hubebell) is a great recessed outdoor box for this application. Costs a bit more.
Thanks for sharing!
You da man! Worked perfectly.. thank u for taking the time to help..
Glad it helped!!
I’m going to school and I I use wire nuts but I think I like that clear thing u was using 🤷♂️ great video
Thanks 👍 Either should work!
I can't believe you drilled the hole from outside and spend all that time to measure the wall to be in same place with the indoor box.
Drill from inside and you have the mark and hole to link outside box,as simple as that.
That is a great method. I didn't want a big hole in the back of my box. Just showing that it can be done without that.
You only need to drill a 5.5mm with long sds drill bit and you have a small hole in the other side and that is your marking then anyway you have to drill a bigger hole that fits your cable or conduit.And drilling from inside your hole will always be smaller than drilling from outside to your inside box.
Yeah, I thought about that, but didn't have the long drill bit, so just measured and verified. That's a good method though as long as you can get away with it.
@@KylersStudio Long drill bits are notoriously overpriced but HarborFreight sells them much lower. Since you almost never need them, quality is not a concern.
Would external box be OK? Seems easier no cutting only drill a hole for the wire to pass thru.
Yes, that's totally fine. If you are sure to drill it in the right place, you might not even need to bend conduit. It might be hard to fish through the hole without taking apart the wall or box on the inside though. Pick your poison.
dude, you should be narrating audiobooks! Great video.
thanks
Thank you! I’ve thought about it just haven’t made the right connections yet!
@@KylersStudio going to be honest, you sounded like Tobin Bell from the Saw movies.
i'd be reading, comprehending and memorizing books other than science and sports! amazing 😊
I have an existing outlet that is coming out from the wall. I tried to nail the blue box next to the stud but I have no room to get the hammer in there. Is there a different blue box I can use? Ty
Yes, there are boxes with screws you can get into a stud, or what they call old work boxes. Check out some of my links for ideas.
Great video. The only issue I see, and I'm not a licensed electrician, is you used the incorrect receptacle. You turned off a 20amp breaker, you have 12/2 coming into your indoor receptacle, you ran 12/2 to your GFCI receptacle, but it appears to be a 15amp, not a 20amp. Also, it looks like your indoor is also a 15amp receptacle, which I would have upgraded to a 20a.
The only reason I noticed that is I had the same issue in my home. While troubleshooting an electrical issue at home I found that all of my kitchen outlets (and a few other places) were 15amp, but they were on a 20amp circuit. I ended up replacing every outlet in my home and ensuring they were matched to the circuit. While that didn't solve the issue I was troubleshooting, it made me feel better about possibly causing a fire on an overloaded receptacle.
I just used old footage for the breaker from previous projects. I mostly just included it so people wouldn't forget that it's important to turn it off before you stick your fingers in there.
It’s perfectly fine (and to code) to have 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. All the wire on a 20 amp circuit must be 12 gauge so if you’re adding an extra outlet like this, you have to use 12 gauge wire even though it’s just bringing power from one 15 amp receptacle to another 15 amp receptacle.
adding a 20amp receptacle on a 15amp line, would possibly cause overloading your describe. But having a 15amp receptacle on a 20amp line? How would that ever be overloaded?
@@scottkriegerjr.6205 The receptacle could melt... ruclips.net/video/wLSe4LzK9b4/видео.htmlsi=Vof5nJJhyCM2rzt5
Oscillating tool or high speed wheel, which will fit this particular job best?
A grinder with a cutting wheel would have worked well for the long sides, but not great for the small sides; too much overcut. Good way to start though.
Personally having had several GFCI outlets fail outdoors I moved mine to the inside outlet and then sistered off of the GFCI outlet to the outdoor outlet. Both outlets are then GFCI protected. The indoor outlet stays dry and the outdoor outlet can handle the water without failure since it's all brass. I've never had to replace one but they are very inexpensive compared to replacing an outdoor GFCI outlet.
I've heard this suggestion before. I've personally never had a problem with that, but if you're doing a sister install for a client, this might be the way to go. The location of my outlet is under an overhang, so I wasn't as thorough as I otherwise might have been.
can u use 14/2 romex for wire ? even though its going to GFCI outdoors
"Can" and "should" may be a big difference. I used the same wire gage that was installed in the circuit because that makes sense to me. In my case, all the wire was inside the wall and not exposed, so it made sense to me.
You can’t use 14 if it’s a 20 amp circuit. In this case, it was a 20 amp circuit so he had to use 12/2
12-20 14-15 Is what I remember. Just like green ground and black to brass.
How do you prevent water from leaking inside the wall since you cut through the lathe paper?
I'm hoping the foam seal pressed on the wall box is enough to keep any water out. As it deteriorates over the years, I'll have to add some calking around the box or replace the box. It is also on a wall that has a roof overhang, so the only way it gets wet is when the rain is blowing sideways or the snow piles up more than a foot.
Can someone PLEASE help me with my scenario? I’m wanting to do this very thing, except after using an interior outlet I need to move the outlet about 8 feet along the house outside. Do I just use conduit from the outside? I would appreciate any help! I got a plug n play 110 hot tub but only has a 15 ft cord. I’m just trying to get an outside outlet box closer. I’m a 65 yr old female with a lifetime of experience but not at this..any ideas, please?❤
First off, I’m not an electrician, so take this for what it’s worth. Usually a hard wired hot tub need its own circuit with a shutoff somewhat close but not too close to it (5-50 feet within sight but not within water, check your codes). If it’s 110, I suppose you could get away with it by running the wall box with rigid conduit to your shutoff box and liquid tight to the hot tub. Make sure the circuit isn’t overloaded though, otherwise the breaker will trip when your hot tub kicks on.
If it’s just an outlet you need outside then you could connect through the wall to a box that runs rigid conduit to an outlet box. That should make it watertight if you use the right connections. You might not even have to bend the conduit if you use the right boxes. I think a liquid tight would be ok for this if there is a low chance of it being touched, but rigid is more durable.
Please hire a licensed electrician to wire this correctly.
You’re definitely going to need an electrician. Hot tubs usually run on a 2 pole 50 amp breaker which you definitely don’t already have a spare one in your panel not being used. I think they have to have an outside shut off too like the HVAC system. In other words, they can’t just be tied into any existing circuit in your house or that breaker will stay tripped every time the hot tub turns on.
@@rizzorizzo2311 I have to agree with you on this one because it can be complicated and we can't tell her what her specific requirements are. It's less hassle just to hire someone to do it right for you in this scenario.
I just did this today with a 35$ WR cover kit from Home Depot. I’m sure I saved myself 300-400$.
Hope it worked!
would be nice if you put the wire type and gauges of the wires.
Good point; I've gone over that in previous videos. You can check the sheathing of the previous wiring to match. Google says: "15-amp circuits usually use 14-gauge wire, while 20-amp circuits generally use 12-gauge wire or 10-gauge wire." Just match what was installed before and don't put a smaller wire than the breaker/circuit requires.
Two things - Use some silicone around the blue box to prevent moisture and air from seeping into/out of the wall. And two, don't use Wago's on ground wires. Complete waste and not as good of a connection. Just twist the ground together old fashion style with a wire nut. Its more better. And cheaper.
After seeing the foam press against the wall and with such tiny gaps, I didn't feel it necessary yet; maybe once the foam deteriorates. Why do you think wago nuts are less effective? I didn't care about saving a few pennies, as I already had them and I'm not doing this project at scale.
@@KylersStudio Wagos are garbage foisted on us by the manufacturer and taken up by the "monkey see, monkey do" generation who think because something is new, it's better? Even the morons at the NFPA/NEC approved their use. Speaking of them, did you know the NFPA/NEC sells over $1,000,000 dollars worth of publications annually and the NFPA employs 600 people?? Wagos gives them a reason to publish information about them and charge you for that in new publications every few years??
There shouldn't be any voltage on the ground wire so why would a wago not be a good connection? As far as costs go most people using wagos have a decent assortment already on hand. Price wouldn't really matter. If I have a dozen in a jar in the garage, or one of them in the wall and 11 in a jar in the garage I still have 12 Wagos. They're already paid for and I still own all of them. Only difference is the one you're worried about is in the electrical box and not in the garage.
Brand name and model of that blue box?
Good question; can't remember right off. Most big box stores should have it or any electrical supply store.
👏🏽😊
Hope it helped!
The outdoor receptacle needs to be on its own circuit.
Why?
One of over fifty ? on-line?? Entertainment for electricians!!
I don't quite understand your comment, but glad you are entertained!
Do you know the Pythagorean theorem?
Yes, why?
You did the tab incorrectly. Push it IN, not OUT. Then when you insert the wire from the back it will lock the wire in place.
You know what? You're absolutely right!! I totally forgot about that! It would make my clamp addition even less relevant. Thanks for the correction!
Not really the best plan, although it is done quite often. You have to consider the existing load and device count of the circuit you are tapping into. If that circuit has heavy draw appliances, or is already at the maximum of twelve devices, don't use it. Best practice is to install a dedicated breaker and circuit for outside outlets. I know, that requires an electrician for most of you, but that is the reality.
Yeah, and he forgot to check the angle of dangle??
That circuit had only a few outlets, only one of which was regularly utilized. The chance of overloading that circuit seems unlikely. Though I agree, it would be ideal to add a separate outlet for the outdoor wiring, that would require much more extensive work pulling wire through finished walls and did not seem justifiable for one occasional use outlet.
Apparently so..
No, not everything requires a damn electrician even for the average person with the correct instructions. Installing breaker is just as simple as installing an outlet. You were so DESPERATE to say he was somehow "wrong" that you made up some scenario in your head about appliances on that specific outlet like you're some sort of internet psychic lmao. That's just sad.
@@Mutiny960 No. I was giving expert advice based on my 40 years experience in the field.
On stucco, ya gotta use some kinda sealant . The foam doesn't conform to all the surface irregularities. Without sealant, just hit it with water from a hose, and you'll see the leakage yourself.
Probably true, especially when the foam starts to deteriorate. I just didn't see the need because it's covered with a roof overhang. But you're right, I should probably go out and add some silicone or something to it.
It seems you accidentally cut a grey vinyl pipe. Good video though
There were no pipes close, luckily. That would have made a day project into a week project.
Chicken dinner is on it's way...
I haven't done the smoked chicken yet, but it sounds good!
The connector was unnecessary in my opinion... Not a negative comment and what do I know anyway... Your voice belongs on the Cheech and Chong, Big Bamboo album. 😂
I think the purpose of those connectors is to protect the insulation on wiring from the sharp edges of a metal box hole or knockout...
Probably unnecessary, especially considering the short run and not being designed for that..just wanted to justify buying the bag for another project I suppose. I'm not sure if the voice comment is a good thing or bad thing...I'm not very familiar. And yes, the connector is designed for a metal box knockout clamp, but they have plastic clamps now that seem like they would work just as well. Thanks for the comment!
I have to say, that was just painful watching you trying to cut your outside hole. I won't even mention the blue plastic box. Oh wait, I just did. One word of advice when adding a GFCI outlet from an inside receptacle, put the GFCI inside & the standard receptacle outside. That way you seldom have a dead outlet when you plug something into it. I know I'll catch flack on this, but I assume this is a 20A circuit since you're using #12 romex. Unless there is some #14 somewhere in the circuit or it's fed from a 15A breaker in the panel, I stick with 20A receptacles on a 20A circuit & 15A receptacles on a 15A circuit. Oh yeh, one more thing. Always tighten down your unused neutral & hot side screws. There's probably more, but I'm exhausted. Good night.
Yes, I gave a great example of how not to do it. Might have been worth just buying the receptacle box hole cutter for the recip; though not sure how well it would work once I got to the wire backing. There still isn't a great solution for cutting the chicken wire without absolutely destroying your blade. What is wrong with the blue box? Why would I put the GFCI outlet inside? I don't need it inside. Why tighten screws that are not being used? I think I can tell why you're exhausted...doing a bunch of extra unecessary work. What electrician certifications do you have?
@@KylersStudio I was a licensed electrician and Journeyman Lineman, who retired nearly 10 years ago. I had been wiring residential and commercial for 31 years as a sideline business which complimented my fulltime job as a Journeyman Lineman.
I started putting the GFCI receptacles inside the house or building about 30 years ago after receiving a lot of complaints about tripped GFI's that either I or someone else had installed outdoors. Just being outdoors in high humidity or rain was causing the trip. When ever it was possible, I started putting the GFCI inside and installing standard outlets outside and those issues all but stopped. I've been purposely installing EVERY outdoor outlet in new structures or remodels like this ever since & have almost no complaints of GFI trips. I don't use plastic boxes of any color EVER because they are cheap crap, thin, they flex too much, crack easily, and drywallers zip right through the edges with cutout tools when cutting around them. They are not the proper box to use for outdoor use. So what are your credentials?
@@jonhansen4745 Ah thank you for explaining! As I said, I'm not an electrician at all, I just learn about it and figure it out based on research. You have good points; I'm sure all valid. I don't live in a humid environment, and even when it rains, it has yet to trip, but I can understand the logic behind it. My house is all but finished, so I don't see any reason anyone would be cutting out the wall, unless they intend to replace all the wiring anyway. So, do they make old construction metal boxes? How much more do they cost? And how do they secure into the wall?
@@KylersStudio Yes, they still make steel boxes. They nail up with 2 nails per box. Before I retired I was using fiberglass boxes for new construction and remodel jobs in residential. For commercial wiring I used steel boxes with greenfield or EMT and pulled thhn wire or whatever was required for the particular job. A lot of what I did the last few years was wiring machine sheds, hog facilities, shops, grain bins, & grain handling systems which was mostly using either steel or PVC.
@@jonhansen4745 So how would you install a steel box into old construction i.e. without a stud?
The blue tabs suck….
Why?
@@KylersStudioBecause plastic is weaker than metal so it's very easy for the plastic tabs to break when tightening them
@@aurvaroy6670 Do they make old constructions boxes made out of metal with metal tabs? I imagine those are more expensive as well.
@@KylersStudio Yes but metal boxes have different mechanism to clamp onto a wall. You can simply get a plastic box with metal tabs like the ones made by Legrand or Allied Moulding. Sure, they cost a couple dollars more, but they're stronger and more versatile.