You’re right. Other videos make this process complicated with several marks here and there. I’m new at this and because I replace the halyards on my boat, I want to use the old lines to learn. But the old lines are hard to work with ,so I’m buying new rope to get the science right. Thank you.
New to splicing and have watched lots and lots of videos, including the Sampson site ones that follow the written directions. This was better than any of the rest! Thanks! Subscribed now. 😊
You can watch splicing all day long , you will only truly get it by doing your own splices. Your hands have to learn it. My bonafides: life time on the water and 25 years on seagoing tugboats (so far). I have literally show the ropes to lots of green horns . Good luck
Very nice! I’ve done many splices with the mark R, X, I, II, III method. And, while it does work, it does seem very complicated. Your approach seems to be notably more straightforward. Thanks!
Good video. That’s a Lot of work!!! I learned to splice rope when I was about 12 but rope was different. I used a back-weaving technique which I still think is beautiful and I used to wind the end of a rope with waxed thread because the rope was natural fiber which couldn’t be melted. This is interesting but like all old timers I miss the old times. The needle used to open the twist was called a “Marlin spike”. But synthetic rope is so much more reliable I’m not complaining I just like the old ways. But it still takes a lot of material skill and knowledge to maintain these things and keep yourself going.
I too have an affinity for the old ways and have learned a lot from them. The past teaches us the way to the future :) The materials have improved and can still be worked with the traditional methods.
You do a great job explaining. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Question, please. Instead of permanently splicing through the shackle ring. Could you make a longer eye with no shackle, then feed the eye through the ring, over the top of the shackle and pull it back on itself.. That way if your shackle breaks or you need to change it, you don't have to resplice it. Hopefully that makes sense. Thanks.
You can do that too, but each sharp bend in the knot weakens the rope so you run the risk of the rope breaking on you. An alternative is to make the regular eye splice and simply have a U-Bolt shackle attach to the eye and sail. If something goes bad, swap in a new U-bolt.
Well done video; thanks. Some of your tips were helpful vs. other videos. I tried my first splice on 1/4" polyester double braid. I used cheap plastic fids that seemed to have too large a diameter so switched to knitting needles and tape. Ultimately, it worked but the end of the cover where it loops back in the eye is really ugly. I'm not sure if splicing larger line would be easier. I guess I'll stick with knots!
My marlinespike seamanship is sorely lacking and your how-to videos on the subject always shed much light on the subject. This one is no exception. Thanks again, Herby! 👍👍👍
Very helpful video thanks. In my experience one has to be bold and patient to work a hole in the cover with a small fid, gradually opening the hole without breaking any strands. The key to a good finish is to avoid bulk. Do this in three ways- 1. Bury the minimum amount of cover, too long you get bulk, but too short and the frayed ends escape and need whipping to control them. 2. Start tapering at the loop, at the start of the bury. 3. Pull and milk as much slack out of the weave as possible before trying to milk back into the cover. After whipping a layer of self amalgamating tape hides any unsightly bits and protects against UV. Leaving too much bulk means a big struggle to get to a point of road block with a fat loop hanging out, after more struggle one decides to reverse the process- then follows another big struggle to unbury what is buried. 🧐😀. Avoid the bulk in the beginning and it’s easy.
Excellent comment; I was just painstakingly going through this again as I'm starting to splice important, functional lines & keep getting that OBNOXIOUS bulky, pokey-outy core bit right at the end of miking/tightening the final eye into place - maddening!! Going over the process/physics again & again in my head, I realized it's probably my tapering that I need to improve. Pretty sure the "step down" in the 1st burying of the small cover piece back into the core is the junction I end up fighting for dear life at the end, so I think I need to get a lot more precise & actually TAPER it here so it's smoother? Maybe I'm cutting it a bit too short too, leading to frayed bits sticking out at the very end... Is there an actual inch formula for how much core to leave on the first cut? Also, Andrew; #2 you mean taper the ENTIRE core that goes into the core loop, right? Starting where it enters the loop? & With #3, can (either of) you explain what you mean a bit more...? Thanks in advance! Otherwise this method is SO much better & easier to remember than the x/y/z, 1/2/3 clutter methods (+ trying to force a fid + 2x core back through 1 piece of cover, ahhhh!! My dainty hands! LOL) Thanks again Herby, & Andrew for the comment. Off to work on my tapering 1st before doing anymore :) I've had very good success so far with MOST of my splices, but generally need help to force the last bit in. & I want to be self sufficient in splicing! :D
@@ietsjeanders6122 Hi Anders, yes my experience is that I need to taper the bury all the way from the inner end to get it into the cover. I fought for hours before figuring that out. Yes you may be cutting too short; you can just pull those untidy end out, cut them and pull the cover back to hide the end. You have to keep playing with it and checking yourself and your thinking. It does become easy. It is easier to do that write about.
Another great one! Off to the store to buy some test line and fids. 8 degrees in Chicago. Time to get this skillset under my belt. Ah! maybe I make a halyard belt :)
i just did the funniest thing..... I watched a few of your other splicing videos back to back. Then, I watched another RUclipsr's splicing video but he was going too fast so I slowed the video down to 3/4 speed..... Then I just watched this video and I thought, why is he talking so slow and slurring his words, the dude must be drunk! LOL. I still had you on 3/4 speed...... ha, ha, ha. Mate, for a laugh, watch this video on 3/4 speed and you'll totally crack up. Anyway, this is a roundabout compliment to you because your splicing videos are never too fast, you explain things comprehensively and you do simpler (but just as effective) methods. Now, stop drinking and videoing.
I just went to try this and ... can't even extract the core from the cover! You make it all look so easy. I'll see if you have another video on getting the core out easily. Thanks for creating these videos.ay I suggest either writing an e-book or including an affiliate link to Amazon for your favorite book on splicing (and the tools, of course). I can't watch the videos at sea, or in some remote place, and that always seems to be when I need a splice.
It comes with practice but it is much harder to do on an old line. Try it out a few times on a new line to get the concept down, then give it a try on an older stiff line and work about 10x harder to get the same job done! I like to part the yarns of the cover and make a gap, then slip around and under the whole core and lift up. Sometimes I will need to stab the core and lift it up in smaller parts until it finally get enough up that I can pull it out.
First off, awesome, clear video. Secondly, when do you use a thimble and does that change your technique? Maybe thimble eyes as your next video? Thanks for the great tips.
I bought some cheap fids off of Amazon, they were plastic and just terrible! They got scratched up and would pull on the fibres and didn't go through the line smoothly. What fids do you suggest? And is there a different splice than this if I were to make a Stay out of Dyneema?
Thanks so much! Gives me a much better understanding of the process. I’ve struggled with double braid. Would it be okay to use a soft shackle to attach the halyard to the sail instead of a snap shackle? Sometimes my snap shackle binds in the grommet in the headboard, twisting the line. Another question, if I may, is it possible to splice older line? Or is it just too stiff? Thank you for all your great videos
Very cool! I had learned how to put a loop in fiber rope like that when I worked with the Water & Power dept. in L.A. many years ago, be damned if I can remember how I did it! This helped! Thanks!
I would suggest tying an Alpine Butterfly Knot in the middle. It is very strong and if you need to remove or relocate the loop, it can always be untied (even after heavy loading).
Thank you for this! Simplified but not compromising the splice. I don’t do these frequently so I tend to forget all the many steps and details of the marking A/B/C/D etc methods. I can remember this. Very cool.
Simple process as far as it goes. I keep trying but no way can I get the core to fit back into the cover. Even eliminating the cover into core part, the core still bunches up between eye and cover. I'd like to see this video "close the loop" of those last couple inches!
Have you ever finished the taper with shoo goo? It works so well on my shooting heads: it holds forever, seals out crud, stays pliable, and shoots through the guides like a boss. As soon as it begins setting you final shape and smooth it. Cheers
It was good until you jumped the most difficult part of finishing the milking back into the cover and stepped to whipping off. You also mentioned going outside to a winch, you never used a winch! Just saying as a learner it's frustrating when sections are dropped.
Very good description, and I would love to be able to replicate. Unfortunately, the difficult part for me is starting removing the core, which has been edited out from 1:59 to 2:01 in the video - the core basically jumps out of the cover and allows you to pull it out with the fid. I have the added disadvantage of trying with white covered braid (nevertheless, it is a brand new length). When done it looks like a cat-of-nine-tails with the odd strand loop that I have to leave, otherwise I will need to unravel more of the core to find the strand that is bulging out. So I would appreciate if you have any tips for getting the core out?
I put the back (and sharp end) of two small fids into the same hole on the cover. Then I swoop down into the bottom of the cover and lever them both down opposite each other like a cork remover. This motion lifts the core out and opens the cover at the same time.
Would you use this with a 12 strand dyneema core rope or would you rather see a brummel splice there? Not sure how you'd get the jacket over with a brummel splice tho.
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks! I'm taking your advice on a reduced length headsail halyard using an eye splice and messenger line so I have some new Dyneema halyards to splice.
Makes it look easy but it rarely is. I've done loads and only 70% come out ok. My top tip is its much easier with new, loose rope where there is some space between the cover and core. Old ,used super tight rope us almost impossible. I find .😊
With double braid doesn't the cover carry load as well? Isn't that why the manufacturer's instructions include burying a length of the cover too? Have you ever had your splice method pull tested to see how it compares to the recommended method?
From premium ropes description of double braided polyester line: It is essential to include both core AND cover in the eye-splice. www.premiumropes.com/rope-advice/rope-construction
The cover doesn’t carry any load, and the fibers that make the cover are not strong enough. Burying the cover as well helps to hold the cover on the splice and keep everything looking neat and tidy. I have not had my splices pull tested, but they have supported our sails through storms as we crossed the Atlantic, so they are definitely “good enough” for marine use.
Class 1 double braid does split the load between cover and core. The fancier materials don't, so you can splice them like this, just with a longer bury. This is probably fine for halyards if you don't plan to use them to go up the mast, but you are correct, a back weave splice is prescribed for class 1 lines.
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks much, I’ve been learning much from your DIY video’s and truly enjoy your sailing vids. What sizes of rope would you say is most commonly found on your SV is case of emergency fixes? Thanks again!
I did like 8 eye splices when I replaced my running rigging, I used the same method, but on one it had stayed raining......... needless to say but I could not for the life of me get that one all the way in, and has to cut it off and redo it the next day with the line dry.... also wear gloves when your pulling the splice😬
Great explanation for those with good spatial or geometric acuity. Unfortunately, the majority of the population does not have this talent naturally, hence why the traditional methods of explaining how to splice a line exist. Spatial abilities can be developed, but aren’t focused on enough in education. Those that have it naturally often also have high quantitative and verbal abilities and tend to score the highest in IQ tests. Nicely done…what’s your IQ? 😉
Class I fibers are polyester and the like. They are not as slippery and need less bury in the splice. Class II fibers are Dyneema and other high tech fibers which require more bury because they are slippery.
Tried several times and could not achieve success with this technique. I am a strong man, and there was simply no way in hell I could milk back the sheath completely at the end. I believe this was made harder by the suggestion to use an even longer bury than 1 fid length.
I personally hate this splice. It is the worst one to do. It does work but it is not enjoyable. The result is a strong splice that will hold for years, but it sucks while you are doing it.
This is wrong on so many levels. No one should follow these instructions to splice line, especially for use on a halyard. It is surprising that this channel would produce such a video, as they have produced other splicing videos that actually follow proper splicing procedures as published by the rope manufacturers. Herb, you should remove this video.
@@RiggingDoctor Yeah. He's right. Class I lines share the load between core and cover, that's why you have to do the annoying back weave eye splice. You can use this, all be it with a deeper bury (usually 60x the diameter of the line, in fancy synthetics because the core has all the strength and the cover is just for handling/UV protection. It is why you can also do coverless eyes in the fancier synthetics if you want to do a Brummel or just have a tight area, but you can't with regular Class I. I love your videos, but you don't want someone getting hurt going up a mast hanging from a badly spliced halyard.
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UpkqJ4GRfSg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[How to] Make a Dyneema Deadeye | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9-4AYV7jKRA/mqdefault.jpg)
Best splicing video i've seen on RUclips. Nicely done with the explanation
Thank you!
Your video was the best I have seen on YT on splicing. The expert tips are fantastic, no one else has mentioned them . Thank you
You are very welcome!
You’re right. Other videos make this process complicated with several marks here and there. I’m new at this and because I replace the halyards on my boat, I want to use the old lines to learn. But the old lines are hard to work with ,so I’m buying new rope to get the science right. Thank you.
Good video. I'm going to have to do this a few times while watching and pausing the video for it to sink in my memory. Thanks.
Sounds like a plan!
Very well done (I have watched a few), and the only one that explains the why of every step - which helps the understanding... Thx!
Herby you truly are a rigging doctor
👍
Yay!!!!’ The Doctor is in the house! Great one Herbie. Hi Maddie.
Thanks :)
This is WAY easier to follow than the Columbia Basin video! Thank you so much 🎉
👍 thanks!
New to splicing and have watched lots and lots of videos, including the Sampson site ones that follow the written directions. This was better than any of the rest! Thanks! Subscribed now. 😊
You can watch splicing all day long , you will only truly get it by doing your own splices. Your hands have to learn it.
My bonafides: life time on the water and 25 years on seagoing tugboats (so far). I have literally show the ropes to lots of green horns . Good luck
You have so much knowledge. I would like to be able to know just the things that you have forgotten lol
:)
You know I Love This! The BEST Instructor!
Thanks!
I want to go fly fishing when the weather permits.. After watching this ! Or knit a sweater too !! Harvey thanks for sharing sir !!
Anytime!
Always clear simple instructions.
Thank you :)
This is very educational. I enjoy watching your videos
Thanks!
Great video Herbie! Sharing with my son, the new FLEET CAPTAIN of his sailing association. Thank you!
Congratulations!
Thank you
Bravo, simple.
Thanks!
Excellent, best explanation, looks so simple
It’s a lot simpler than the overly complicated instructions that they give for how to do this splice :)
Very nice!
I’ve done many splices with the mark R, X, I, II, III method. And, while it does work, it does seem very complicated.
Your approach seems to be notably more straightforward. Thanks!
Thanks! The marks are very good if you need an exact measurement in the eye, where this is more of a “give or take” eye size.
Good video. That’s a Lot of work!!! I learned to splice rope when I was about 12 but rope was different. I used a back-weaving technique which I still think is beautiful and I used to wind the end of a rope with waxed thread because the rope was natural fiber which couldn’t be melted. This is interesting but like all old timers I miss the old times. The needle used to open the twist was called a “Marlin spike”. But synthetic rope is so much more reliable I’m not complaining I just like the old ways. But it still takes a lot of material skill and knowledge to maintain these things and keep yourself going.
I too have an affinity for the old ways and have learned a lot from them. The past teaches us the way to the future :)
The materials have improved and can still be worked with the traditional methods.
Very clear description
Thanks, but this is my least favorite splice to do.
You do a great job explaining. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Question, please. Instead of permanently splicing through the shackle ring. Could you make a longer eye with no shackle, then feed the eye through the ring, over the top of the shackle and pull it back on itself.. That way if your shackle breaks or you need to change it, you don't have to resplice it. Hopefully that makes sense. Thanks.
You can do that too, but each sharp bend in the knot weakens the rope so you run the risk of the rope breaking on you. An alternative is to make the regular eye splice and simply have a U-Bolt shackle attach to the eye and sail. If something goes bad, swap in a new U-bolt.
Thank you, way easier than the mfr’s method 😊
Well done video; thanks. Some of your tips were helpful vs. other videos. I tried my first splice on 1/4" polyester double braid. I used cheap plastic fids that seemed to have too large a diameter so switched to knitting needles and tape. Ultimately, it worked but the end of the cover where it loops back in the eye is really ugly. I'm not sure if splicing larger line would be easier. I guess I'll stick with knots!
Great explanation ... I'm looking forward to see more tricks and easy way to do jobs aboard! Thanks!!!
They are coming!
That is pure black magic you got twice the amount of core in that sheathing to me...
It is by far my most loathsome splice to perform!
My marlinespike seamanship is sorely lacking and your how-to videos on the subject always shed much light on the subject. This one is no exception. Thanks again, Herby! 👍👍👍
You are very welcome!
Very helpful video thanks.
In my experience one has to be bold and patient to work a hole in the cover with a small fid, gradually opening the hole without breaking any strands.
The key to a good finish is to avoid bulk. Do this in three ways-
1. Bury the minimum amount of cover, too long you get bulk, but too short and the frayed ends escape and need whipping to control them.
2. Start tapering at the loop, at the start of the bury.
3. Pull and milk as much slack out of the weave as possible before trying to milk back into the cover.
After whipping a layer of self amalgamating tape hides any unsightly bits and protects against UV.
Leaving too much bulk means a big struggle to get to a point of road block with a fat loop hanging out, after more struggle one decides to reverse the process- then follows another big struggle to unbury what is buried. 🧐😀. Avoid the bulk in the beginning and it’s easy.
Those are some great pointers!
Excellent comment; I was just painstakingly going through this again as I'm starting to splice important, functional lines & keep getting that OBNOXIOUS bulky, pokey-outy core bit right at the end of miking/tightening the final eye into place - maddening!!
Going over the process/physics again & again in my head, I realized it's probably my tapering that I need to improve. Pretty sure the "step down" in the 1st burying of the small cover piece back into the core is the junction I end up fighting for dear life at the end, so I think I need to get a lot more precise & actually TAPER it here so it's smoother? Maybe I'm cutting it a bit too short too, leading to frayed bits sticking out at the very end... Is there an actual inch formula for how much core to leave on the first cut?
Also, Andrew; #2 you mean taper the ENTIRE core that goes into the core loop, right? Starting where it enters the loop? & With #3, can (either of) you explain what you mean a bit more...? Thanks in advance!
Otherwise this method is SO much better & easier to remember than the x/y/z, 1/2/3 clutter methods (+ trying to force a fid + 2x core back through 1 piece of cover, ahhhh!! My dainty hands! LOL)
Thanks again Herby, & Andrew for the comment. Off to work on my tapering 1st before doing anymore :) I've had very good success so far with MOST of my splices, but generally need help to force the last bit in. & I want to be self sufficient in splicing! :D
@@ietsjeanders6122 Hi Anders, yes my experience is that I need to taper the bury all the way from the inner end to get it into the cover. I fought for hours before figuring that out.
Yes you may be cutting too short; you can just pull those untidy end out, cut them and pull the cover back to hide the end.
You have to keep playing with it and checking yourself and your thinking. It does become easy.
It is easier to do that write about.
Great tutorial. I only started splicing so need more practice. Want to make anchor chain snubber as project this season.
I have a video that will come out next week!
Another great one! Off to the store to buy some test line and fids. 8 degrees in Chicago. Time to get this skillset under my belt. Ah! maybe I make a halyard belt :)
👍
I just tie on a bowline and splice the main brace instead. Great video
The only issue is sometimes the knot can get fouled on the shiv where a splice runs clean even when the halyard is two blocked to the top of the mast
i just did the funniest thing..... I watched a few of your other splicing videos back to back. Then, I watched another RUclipsr's splicing video but he was going too fast so I slowed the video down to 3/4 speed..... Then I just watched this video and I thought, why is he talking so slow and slurring his words, the dude must be drunk! LOL. I still had you on 3/4 speed...... ha, ha, ha.
Mate, for a laugh, watch this video on 3/4 speed and you'll totally crack up. Anyway, this is a roundabout compliment to you because your splicing videos are never too fast, you explain things comprehensively and you do simpler (but just as effective) methods. Now, stop drinking and videoing.
🍻
Glad it was helpful
I just went to try this and ... can't even extract the core from the cover! You make it all look so easy. I'll see if you have another video on getting the core out easily. Thanks for creating these videos.ay I suggest either writing an e-book or including an affiliate link to Amazon for your favorite book on splicing (and the tools, of course). I can't watch the videos at sea, or in some remote place, and that always seems to be when I need a splice.
It comes with practice but it is much harder to do on an old line. Try it out a few times on a new line to get the concept down, then give it a try on an older stiff line and work about 10x harder to get the same job done!
I like to part the yarns of the cover and make a gap, then slip around and under the whole core and lift up. Sometimes I will need to stab the core and lift it up in smaller parts until it finally get enough up that I can pull it out.
@@RiggingDoctor Yes, I got it (eventually) by switching to the unused end of the same line.
Try bruising tightened old rope with a mallet to loosen up the bound fibres.
Brilliant
Thank you
First off, awesome, clear video. Secondly, when do you use a thimble and does that change your technique? Maybe thimble eyes as your next video?
Thanks for the great tips.
The thimble simply goes in at the time when I put in the shackle and the eye gets tightened down over the thimble until it’s tight.
Thanks!
I bought some cheap fids off of Amazon, they were plastic and just terrible! They got scratched up and would pull on the fibres and didn't go through the line smoothly. What fids do you suggest? And is there a different splice than this if I were to make a Stay out of Dyneema?
ruclips.net/video/UpkqJ4GRfSg/видео.html
This is the splice you want to use for your stays.
I use and like these fids: amzn.to/3KsKAQp
Thanks so much! Gives me a much better understanding of the process. I’ve struggled with double braid.
Would it be okay to use a soft shackle to attach the halyard to the sail instead of a snap shackle? Sometimes my snap shackle binds in the grommet in the headboard, twisting the line. Another question, if I may, is it possible to splice older line? Or is it just too stiff?
Thank you for all your great videos
Soft shackle is fine in there, and it lets you replace the shackle without redoing the splice.
Splicing old line can be done but it’s stiffer.
@@RiggingDoctor thank you so much!
Very cool! I had learned how to put a loop in fiber rope like that when I worked with the Water & Power dept. in L.A. many years ago, be damned if I can remember how I did it! This helped! Thanks!
Glad it jogged your memory!
How would you suggest putting an eye splice in the middle of a line, with 2 long tails hanging? Double braided line
I would suggest tying an Alpine Butterfly Knot in the middle. It is very strong and if you need to remove or relocate the loop, it can always be untied (even after heavy loading).
I just learned some more boat care from the Rigging Doctor, but Herb, I have to ask. How long did that take from start to finish?
Too long 😂
Thank you for this! Simplified but not compromising the splice. I don’t do these frequently so I tend to forget all the many steps and details of the marking A/B/C/D etc methods. I can remember this. Very cool.
👍
Thanks good video
👍
Damn! nobody is showing the struggle for that last little 3/4 of an inch to burry. It just doesn’t want. Will try the winch this afternoon.
It’s a horrible struggle!
Use the winch and beat it with a hammer to try and get the fibers to slide into place.
It’s agonizing!
@@RiggingDoctor Done! good Lord. that’s why the labor is expensive.
Simple process as far as it goes. I keep trying but no way can I get the core to fit back into the cover. Even eliminating the cover into core part, the core still bunches up between eye and cover. I'd like to see this video "close the loop" of those last couple inches!
Have you ever finished the taper with shoo goo? It works so well on my shooting heads: it holds forever, seals out crud, stays pliable, and shoots through the guides like a boss. As soon as it begins setting you final shape and smooth it.
Cheers
Great video, Herbie. I’ll keep this one handy 😎👍
I haven’t heard of the stuff but I’ll check it out! Thanks :)
It was good until you jumped the most difficult part of finishing the milking back into the cover and stepped to whipping off. You also mentioned going outside to a winch, you never used a winch! Just saying as a learner it's frustrating when sections are dropped.
Very good description, and I would love to be able to replicate. Unfortunately, the difficult part for me is starting removing the core, which has been edited out from 1:59 to 2:01 in the video - the core basically jumps out of the cover and allows you to pull it out with the fid. I have the added disadvantage of trying with white covered braid (nevertheless, it is a brand new length). When done it looks like a cat-of-nine-tails with the odd strand loop that I have to leave, otherwise I will need to unravel more of the core to find the strand that is bulging out. So I would appreciate if you have any tips for getting the core out?
I put the back (and sharp end) of two small fids into the same hole on the cover. Then I swoop down into the bottom of the cover and lever them both down opposite each other like a cork remover. This motion lifts the core out and opens the cover at the same time.
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks very much. I shall give the swooping a go.
Would you use this with a 12 strand dyneema core rope or would you rather see a brummel splice there? Not sure how you'd get the jacket over with a brummel splice tho.
I will do a video on that!
For Dyneema, it would be a Brummel splice.
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks! I'm taking your advice on a reduced length headsail halyard using an eye splice and messenger line so I have some new Dyneema halyards to splice.
Nice!
Makes it look easy but it rarely is.
I've done loads and only 70% come out ok.
My top tip is its much easier with new, loose rope where there is some space between the cover and core. Old ,used super tight rope us almost impossible. I find .😊
It is by far my most hated splice to do.
Would love to see more rope/ technical videos
They are coming out ;)
@@RiggingDoctor brilliant news. Love learning new skills
Very helpful video. Is Dynamo easier to cut or harder?
Same as polyester when it’s not under load when it’s tight, it’s a bit hard to cut.
With double braid doesn't the cover carry load as well? Isn't that why the manufacturer's instructions include burying a length of the cover too?
Have you ever had your splice method pull tested to see how it compares to the recommended method?
From premium ropes description of double braided polyester line: It is essential to include both core AND cover in the eye-splice.
www.premiumropes.com/rope-advice/rope-construction
The cover doesn’t carry any load, and the fibers that make the cover are not strong enough. Burying the cover as well helps to hold the cover on the splice and keep everything looking neat and tidy.
I have not had my splices pull tested, but they have supported our sails through storms as we crossed the Atlantic, so they are definitely “good enough” for marine use.
Class 1 double braid does split the load between cover and core. The fancier materials don't, so you can splice them like this, just with a longer bury. This is probably fine for halyards if you don't plan to use them to go up the mast, but you are correct, a back weave splice is prescribed for class 1 lines.
@@RiggingDoctor no idea. Go back to school.
Honestly, what's the point of the fid length bury if you're just going to ignore it and cut off what doesn't fit?
To make sure you have enough to cut off at the end instead of being short.
What size of rope and whipping did you use for this?
It was 10mm line for the halyard and the whipping was size 12
@@RiggingDoctor Thanks much, I’ve been learning much from your DIY video’s and truly enjoy your sailing vids. What sizes of rope would you say is most commonly found on your SV is case of emergency fixes? Thanks again!
I did like 8 eye splices when I replaced my running rigging, I used the same method, but on one it had stayed raining......... needless to say but I could not for the life of me get that one all the way in, and has to cut it off and redo it the next day with the line dry.... also wear gloves when your pulling the splice😬
Good tips!
Just tried with 18mm Braid on Braid, don't think my fingers are strong enough
I can tell you right now with all the cuts in the videos it wasn't as easy as you said it would have been easier just to do it the right way
Great explanation for those with good spatial or geometric acuity. Unfortunately, the majority of the population does not have this talent naturally, hence why the traditional methods of explaining how to splice a line exist. Spatial abilities can be developed, but aren’t focused on enough in education. Those that have it naturally often also have high quantitative and verbal abilities and tend to score the highest in IQ tests. Nicely done…what’s your IQ? 😉
I am in Mensa 🤓
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Glad it was what you were looking for
Class one? Class 2? Sorry Herbie, I think this was terrible. But keep the vids coming.
Class I fibers are polyester and the like. They are not as slippery and need less bury in the splice.
Class II fibers are Dyneema and other high tech fibers which require more bury because they are slippery.
@@RiggingDoctor thanks
Still don't know
👍!!!
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No Moebius-Brummel on a double-braid, eh? ;)
It’s a Class 1 fiber, so it’s plenty grippy and doesn’t need the lock to hold it in place :)
Tried several times and could not achieve success with this technique. I am a strong man, and there was simply no way in hell I could milk back the sheath completely at the end. I believe this was made harder by the suggestion to use an even longer bury than 1 fid length.
I personally hate this splice. It is the worst one to do. It does work but it is not enjoyable. The result is a strong splice that will hold for years, but it sucks while you are doing it.
The jump cut between almost buried and whipped made me laugh. To many beeps, had to cut the whole scene
Haha!
I see you are a Traveling Man..
Yes sir. I was raised in 2009.
@@RiggingDoctor I was raised 2008. PM of Equity Lodge 591 in Philadelphia.
Maybe someday we will travel the same road. Cheers
You lost me. Not you?, it's me. A bowline will do just fine.
Another good knot instead of a bowline for a halyard is called the Halyard Hitch
Where was all the cussing, whiskey shots, and smashing it with a hammer? You cut all of those steps out!?!?!
The winch trick is a lifesaver!
I always get worried the word “simply” is used a lot!! Thanks though
At least I’m not saying “literally simple” 🤪
This is like a nautical Klein bottle.
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Would help if fidgety fingers were not constantly blocking the view. l
Next video I will wear see through gloves 😎
This is wrong on so many levels. No one should follow these instructions to splice line, especially for use on a halyard. It is surprising that this channel would produce such a video, as they have produced other splicing videos that actually follow proper splicing procedures as published by the rope manufacturers. Herb, you should remove this video.
You do know this is a Class I splice and not a Class II?
@@RiggingDoctor Yeah. He's right. Class I lines share the load between core and cover, that's why you have to do the annoying back weave eye splice. You can use this, all be it with a deeper bury (usually 60x the diameter of the line, in fancy synthetics because the core has all the strength and the cover is just for handling/UV protection. It is why you can also do coverless eyes in the fancier synthetics if you want to do a Brummel or just have a tight area, but you can't with regular Class I. I love your videos, but you don't want someone getting hurt going up a mast hanging from a badly spliced halyard.
looks like too much hassle
It is. This is my least favorite splice to do!
Great video but the random music is sooooo annoying.
Are you kidding me?
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