Isuzu Trooper power steering pump was the bolt for me - 15 years since I owned the thing and I still have nightmares about it. ONLY 2 bolts holding it so if one sheared is slackened and you lost power steering. And it sheared every 6 months leaving the end of the stud in the head every time...
Repairs/Projects/Fixes General Rules cultivated from my experiences: * Once started there's always something else. * It will typically take at least twice as long as estimated. * A repair with little cost is likely to become a costly repair. * "While I'm at it I might as well"...is a temptation best avoided (if possible). * Once finished there's always something else.
"A repair with little cost is likely to become a costly repair. "??? Most repairs are cheap on older vehicles - the cost is your time and your effort getting to the rubber house or bushing or bolt that needs to be addressed.
@3:35 My first thought is, "that's gonna melt" I had a IH Scout, several of them, I can feel your pain when it comes to loving old trucks that don't love you back.
"Expectations are disappointments waiting to happen" such a true statement. And one to live by. Every woodworking project I embark on there are always a few of those.
I don’t know how to do it, will somebody please make me a GIF of putting on the coveralls at 0:52! That little scene right there is the best epitome of “Time to go to work, gotta get the dang coveralls on” that I’ve ever seen.
A lot of great suggestions here. One option that may be easier than some of the suggestions, certainly cheaper, and perhaps relatively permanent is to locate a hydraulic shop. Ask for fire resistant hydraulic hose that you can retro fit. Parker makes an excellent one. That stuff is commonly used for the final drives on dozers working on wild fires. I use it on my machines that are exposed to welding sparks. It is likely pretty easy to source in your area and is virtually impossible to burn through. Frankly, any hydraulic hose will be better as that fluid tends to run much much hotter than motor oil. Good luck.
It is remarkable how carefully these mundane details are being transformed into the set pieces of an epic hero's journey. Well done, sir. This is awesome!
As a man who wishes I was handier, but whose DIY projects generally entail three to six trips to the hardware store and often result in me making the problem I was trying to fix worse, this video spoke to me.
You might be able to replace the top few inches of the hose that is next to the exhaust manifold with some stainless steel tubing and connect the hose to it.
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe some sort of stainless tube to carry the oil near the turbo? Maybe Even putting an adapter so when future hoses go bad it's an easier repair? It might cost some money upfront but hopefully save you time and money down the road. Might have to adapt fitting at the other end of that oil line.
Im sure a third of the comments are some variation on this but I have fixed a similar problem. There are two products that would work for you, both you would attach to the exhaust and not the hose. 1 - Thermal/Exhaust Wrap, a kind of fabric about 1/4" thick and two inches wide you can wrap around the exhaust. The duct tape of the exhaust world. Typically comes in a box with clips/ties 2 - Generic heat shield (metal foam sandwich, this is what car manufactures use. If its not in stock you could get it from a junk yard. I personally would avoid wrapping anything on the oil hose as it will transfer more heat to the hose if it contacts something.
I had a similar issue with headers burning my power steering hose. I was able to get an aircraft hose fitted with ends for my power steering pump. My dad worked at an air force reserve base and had a friend make the hose.
It’s not rocket science here ans anyone with half a brain can tell you a rubber hose with a plastic tub next to a hit engine ain’t going to work. Let alone a filling and filling a leaky engine with oil every couple of days WTF? Someone call this guy out for not having a clue on how to fix a engine
@@rtclickin4funcouple230 Kind of rude, no need for that. He's working it out on his own as he likes to do. Lot of good solutions in the comments now though.
I totally expected you to use a steel braided hose. Either that or some obscure hose from some other thing I never would have thought of. Seeing you get it from an Auto Parts store was completely unexpected!
Love the concept of the 'Hell Bolt'. Every mechanincal movement has one from a car engine to a fishing reel. All you have to beat it is patience, contortion and prayer. Great stuff as always. Thanks.
Shoutout MT! Take Highway 1 "the Pinter scenic byway" from Anaconda to Drummond to stop off in Philipsburg. No obligation, just an insider tip to stop in a spirited town. Much respect for you!
The jumping your coveralls on was very relatable, haha. I'm looking forward to seeing the new engine installed and the trip that will be its test of might.
When I saw that Tupperware "solution", I was worried Van fell off the wagon. There as so many solutions to this problem (lots of them in the comments below), but the easiest (especially since you are replacing the tube) is to slide heat shielding fabric that a lot of TIG welders cover their fingers on their torch hand with onto the tube and secure in place with a couple hose clamps. I hope when they put the new engine in, they put in a permanent fix. Another entertaining and well done video!
Pretty much. Wouldn't fathom the count of similar videos that could have been made about challenges I myself have faced, including today and the little project that started 3 days ago. The new carburetor is on the way.
I really enjoy all of your videos but this is my favorite kind! Thank you for all the hard work you do to produce these and thank you so much for sharing them
in the UK we have this 'exhaust repair tape' stuff to make quick repairs to exhaust systems. Its like a thin metal tape with a very sticky back. its thin and flexible. Try wrapping a bunch of layers of that around the pipe at the turbo end? Or try something like a 6 - 10 mm thick Ceramic or Steel plate as a heat sink between the turbo and the pipe as well ?
I remember the days of driving around with a case of oil in the trunk LOL. nothing worse than a badass vehicle that leaks oil --- so frustrating. looks like it needs some sort of thermo tech shielded/sleeved hose? Major props for tackling that....not for the faint of heart.
Any chance a build video for the mobile repair setup is coming? It'd be awesome to see the thought that went into layout and what was included/excluded. A how-to plan/build your own would be amazing!
Van wrap the hose in the ceramic insulation that you can purchase at Home Depot. Unitherm it will stay at room temperature on one side of the material. If you get a chance, RUclips ceramic insulation. This material is used in foundry applications to shield off heat.
I admire and am jealous of the overall quality of this Land Cruiser. Despite the issues you've had, it is truly a one-of-a-kind, "lifetime" vehicle once sorted. Don't lose hope!
High temp RTV tape. It come in red. Wrap it covering each previous strip 50%. Cover as much as you feel will work. String tie each side to prevent unraveling. Done.
Can you try a heat shield product to coat the hose? For example, Armor Shield IX DIY Kit consumer-grade ceramic coating on the market. With a mirror-like shine and the ease of cleaning it, you’ll fall in love with your vehicle all over again.
Sounds like your hose needs some insulation to protect it from the heat. If you can glue some rockwool on the hose near the manifold you should have adequate protection.
I did a quick search for hoses that can withstand 1000F (how hot a exhaust gets) closest was 340F silicone hose. I did find a all metal oil return hose that can handle 1000F but it costs $560 USD. i believe you could reroute the exhaust cheaper than the cost of the hose. It may be possible to attach a metal tube to the turbo until it is past the exhaust then attach your rubber hose to complete the connection.
The aluminum shield is a good idea, but it has to avoid contact with the hose. It should block radiation and dissipate it in the air. Look at every heat shield in the history of cars... always away from the hot part and away from the cold ones as well
It ain't going to work if the hose is touching the exhaust manifold regardless of the conductivity of the particular metal. Polished aluminum is used extensively as a radiant heat barrier, but it doesn't work if there is actual contact.
If I had this issue I'd install a braided line as it provides better heat dissipation and make a stainless or aluminium plate with clamp that will offset the heat from the hose . But it doesn't matter I think the repair will last until the new engine, Van. Good stuff
Car repairs...the ultimate discipline of patience and perseverance that is fueled by necessity. This spirited woman both loves, and hates, the discipline of car repairs.
Heh this reminds me of working on copy machines, there was this one model that would dump toner all down inside the machine due to a design flaw, they redesigned it to add a plastic catch tray that just caught the spilt toner instead of fixing the spill problem.
Yeap I understand. I have a leak with my car, some mechanics said that my car was a total lost. I went to another place, then they modify the oil consistency a little with an addictif and it doesn't leak anymore. For mine, it was a washer in the motor that was problematic. Only a washer, but I can't change it without removing the motor, disassembly, replace it, and assembly. The time spend will equal the price of the car. So I'm happy that the addictif solve my problem.
Awesome. I sure did think I was the only one that got himself into this kind of situation. Did anyone else know that for 2005 BMW R1200 GS’s the horn only works when the bike is either in gear or moving.. I sure didn’t. Re-Wired it twice. Thought I screwed it up lost 3 weekends.
Just learned about Van, The Spirited Man, yesterday, from The Bertcast. Great episode, that was highly entertaining. You both seem like kindred “spirits”. A new friendship was forged, and I look forward to the next time you guys get together for a podcast. Just went down the rabbit hole on a few of your vids. Thx for the great content. Liked, abd subbed!🙂
Ironically enough in my line of work in large factories that don't shut down much there are temporary " Drip bags" hung from leaks that fix the problem for many years.....
Why not just add a spacer to the the turbo manifold and relocate the turbo slightly? If it was angled or offset slightly then it would allow you to avoid burning through the hose.
I would look at clocking the turbo's core, or making (maybe ordering laser cut) a 1/2" spacer plate between the turbo exhaust flange and the manifold. Looks like there is plenty of room to move the turbo outboard a 1/2". Then if possible add a steel tube off the turbo drain past the manifold, and make a small heat shield between line and manifold.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I died laughing at "that one bolt, that makes you question your life choices" - so damn true!!
Andre De Grasse and Tyson Gay know it!
Yeah there's always one, sometimes more, usually for me it's not threading it's removing but blaster helps, penitrating fluid of some sorts
I learned most of my cuss words helping my dad work on engines..only time i ever heard him cuss. The cuss words started after the prays failed.
@@MasterJediJason haha
Isuzu Trooper power steering pump was the bolt for me - 15 years since I owned the thing and I still have nightmares about it.
ONLY 2 bolts holding it so if one sheared is slackened and you lost power steering. And it sheared every 6 months leaving the end of the stud in the head every time...
Repairs/Projects/Fixes General Rules cultivated from my experiences:
* Once started there's always something else.
* It will typically take at least twice as long as estimated.
* A repair with little cost is likely to become a costly repair.
* "While I'm at it I might as well"...is a temptation best avoided (if possible).
* Once finished there's always something else.
Many ruined days have started with a "While I'm at it I might as well".
I call it the rule of six. A repair will always take six times as long as you expect it to take.
@@JamesMW245 yes.
"A repair with little cost is likely to become a costly repair. "??? Most repairs are cheap on older vehicles - the cost is your time and your effort getting to the rubber house or bushing or bolt that needs to be addressed.
Ahhh the episode where I realised you are an artist first and an engineer second. Replace that hose with hardlines, until its away from the turbo.
Now that you have the new hose installed, you can test it by parking the Land Cruiser in Sean Avery's driveway.
hahahaaaa good one!
That would be perfect!! Worst interviewee ever!
"That one bolt." Man, do I hear you!!!
I was visiting my friends in Topanga the other day, and I was stoked to spot your majestic Toyota along the way. Sorry to see it’s having troubles.
Do him a favor and drop off some meds for this guy.
Maybe heat wrapping the manifold and making a diy heat shield for the hose would help
Or just buy a about a foot of heat shield
i was thinking the same thing
Exactly, address the cause (heat). Short of that replacing that section of rubber hose with stainless tube equivalent.
@@Mad4400 I thought the same thing - stainless tube and a heat shield plus wrapping the header.
@@bs369 this might not be the best channel for you
@3:35 My first thought is, "that's gonna melt" I had a IH Scout, several of them, I can feel your pain when it comes to loving old trucks that don't love you back.
"Expectations are disappointments waiting to happen" such a true statement. And one to live by. Every woodworking project I embark on there are always a few of those.
I think that quote should be on Van's next sweatshirt merch.
@@canadude6401 absolutely!
And the corollary is: "No Expectations= ZERO Disappointments".
I don’t know how to do it, will somebody please make me a GIF of putting on the coveralls at 0:52! That little scene right there is the best epitome of “Time to go to work, gotta get the dang coveralls on” that I’ve ever seen.
A lot of great suggestions here. One option that may be easier than some of the suggestions, certainly cheaper, and perhaps relatively permanent is to locate a hydraulic shop. Ask for fire resistant hydraulic hose that you can retro fit. Parker makes an excellent one. That stuff is commonly used for the final drives on dozers working on wild fires. I use it on my machines that are exposed to welding sparks. It is likely pretty easy to source in your area and is virtually impossible to burn through. Frankly, any hydraulic hose will be better as that fluid tends to run much much hotter than motor oil. Good luck.
It is remarkable how carefully these mundane details are being transformed into the set pieces of an epic hero's journey. Well done, sir. This is awesome!
As a man who wishes I was handier, but whose DIY projects generally entail three to six trips to the hardware store and often result in me making the problem I was trying to fix worse, this video spoke to me.
You might be able to replace the top few inches of the hose that is next to the exhaust manifold with some stainless steel tubing and connect the hose to it.
That's a reliable solve
It’s actually pretty simple, I don’t see how how thought an open oil retainer in California would be a good idea
45* degree fitting at the bottom of the turbo? Might have to remove header to install but would we worth the fix. I’ve been there. Keep at it.
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe some sort of stainless tube to carry the oil near the turbo? Maybe Even putting an adapter so when future hoses go bad it's an easier repair? It might cost some money upfront but hopefully save you time and money down the road. Might have to adapt fitting at the other end of that oil line.
Oh I see. Just trying to get it until you can re-engine the thing.
You would want to do this before installing the new engine to ensure that it works
also heat wrap. wrap it in insulating heat wrap. very common.
@@iComplainer yeah with asbestos
Van, I absolutely loved your podcast with Bert Kreischer! Can't wait until your next sit down with him!
There is a f*cking podcast with f*cking Van and f*cking Bert. *whips out Google and popcorn* Thanks mate!
High temp silicone hose typically for race cars is what you want. With a short section of braided metal hose at the top by the exhaust header.
"That one bolt" brought back so many struggles and bad memories.
can hear my older brother doing mechanic work and cursing at that one bolt. memories
@@murf003 lol Yep. My dad always had that one bolt working on the car and then I had my own experiences with that one bolt working on my car.
Me too. I loathe Philips screw heads. Probably because I am Canadian and the Robertson (square) is used here for everything.
Im sure a third of the comments are some variation on this but I have fixed a similar problem. There are two products that would work for you, both you would attach to the exhaust and not the hose.
1 - Thermal/Exhaust Wrap, a kind of fabric about 1/4" thick and two inches wide you can wrap around the exhaust. The duct tape of the exhaust world. Typically comes in a box with clips/ties
2 - Generic heat shield (metal foam sandwich, this is what car manufactures use. If its not in stock you could get it from a junk yard.
I personally would avoid wrapping anything on the oil hose as it will transfer more heat to the hose if it contacts something.
I had a similar issue with headers burning my power steering hose. I was able to get an aircraft hose fitted with ends for my power steering pump. My dad worked at an air force reserve base and had a friend make the hose.
Heat shield wrapping the headers and hose PROPERLY, after installing a 45• coupler should resolve your issue. Worth a try.
My exact thought :)
^^^^^ this will do it!
that is a great idea
It’s not rocket science here ans anyone with half a brain can tell you a rubber hose with a plastic tub next to a hit engine ain’t going to work. Let alone a filling and filling a leaky engine with oil every couple of days WTF? Someone call this guy out for not having a clue on how to fix a engine
@@rtclickin4funcouple230 Kind of rude, no need for that. He's working it out on his own as he likes to do. Lot of good solutions in the comments now though.
I totally expected you to use a steel braided hose. Either that or some obscure hose from some other thing I never would have thought of. Seeing you get it from an Auto Parts store was completely unexpected!
"The one bolt that makes you question your life's choices" haha best quote
Try a silicone hose, with an aluminum exhaust shield, and an exhaust heat wrap on the hose. My turbos oil lines are straight silicone.
the center of the turbo can be clock to spin away a little bit from the exhaust
Yep.
Love the concept of the 'Hell Bolt'. Every mechanincal movement has one from a car engine to a fishing reel. All you have to beat it is patience, contortion and prayer. Great stuff as always. Thanks.
Your work and form of film making is like Gaspar Noé,a great Argentinian director. Good on you Van
It’s amazing to watch your mind work! Still going back & watching these. Great video
Shoutout MT! Take Highway 1 "the Pinter scenic byway" from Anaconda to Drummond to stop off in Philipsburg.
No obligation, just an insider tip to stop in a spirited town. Much respect for you!
Ultimately, "That One Bolt" is always ourselves. Love you, Van. Thank you for this.
Putting on the jumpsuit was my favorite part...lol Thanks for sharing Van!
The jumping your coveralls on was very relatable, haha. I'm looking forward to seeing the new engine installed and the trip that will be its test of might.
“That ONE bolt” hits home hard! Keep up the great work!
AN line with fittings welded on the turbo and block. Worked great on my volvo 343 with "big block" and biiiiig turbo.
Can’t wait to see the 2.8R install - I’ve got a 1984 FJ62 and when the factory 2F goes out it’s getting a 2.8R and an auto trans!
That feeling of pure joy when a new Van Neistat video appears in your inbox.
When I saw that Tupperware "solution", I was worried Van fell off the wagon. There as so many solutions to this problem (lots of them in the comments below), but the easiest (especially since you are replacing the tube) is to slide heat shielding fabric that a lot of TIG welders cover their fingers on their torch hand with onto the tube and secure in place with a couple hose clamps. I hope when they put the new engine in, they put in a permanent fix. Another entertaining and well done video!
They make a 45° push lock fitting that will Bring it away from the exhaust and that way you can wrap it in thermal protectant and Won’t leak again
had the same problem then i found out about a material called starlight. made a small shield between the hose and manifold no more problems.
Pretty much. Wouldn't fathom the count of similar videos that could have been made about challenges I myself have faced, including today and the little project that started 3 days ago. The new carburetor is on the way.
Best oil return line repair video on youtube.
I really enjoy all of your videos but this is my favorite kind! Thank you for all the hard work you do to produce these and thank you so much for sharing them
Safe travels on your journey to Bozeman, mechanical tranquility, and beyond!
This video hit close to home. The only thing it’s missing is a 10mm socket.
Heatwrap on the exhaust, 45 degree fitting on the oil line, heatshield and steelbraided line
in the UK we have this 'exhaust repair tape' stuff to make quick repairs to exhaust systems. Its like a thin metal tape with a very sticky back. its thin and flexible. Try wrapping a bunch of layers of that around the pipe at the turbo end? Or try something like a 6 - 10 mm thick Ceramic or Steel plate as a heat sink between the turbo and the pipe as well ?
I've wanted a Landcruiser for years, but seeing stuff like this makes me happy that I don't own one :)
The problem is he isn’t fixing problems just rigging it
Most reliable car you'll ever get. This guy just has no idea.
This isn’t a Toyota problem. This is a modification gone wrong. That turbo isn’t factory.
His videos are like old Casey videos, which were my favourite, you can clearly see Van's artistic influence on his younger brother.
I remember the days of driving around with a case of oil in the trunk LOL. nothing worse than a badass vehicle that leaks oil --- so frustrating. looks like it needs some sort of thermo tech shielded/sleeved hose? Major props for tackling that....not for the faint of heart.
Any chance a build video for the mobile repair setup is coming? It'd be awesome to see the thought that went into layout and what was included/excluded. A how-to plan/build your own would be amazing!
I love the Michael Stipe jump at the start
Van wrap the hose in the ceramic insulation that you can purchase at Home Depot. Unitherm it will stay at room temperature on one side of the material. If you get a chance, RUclips ceramic insulation. This material is used in foundry applications to shield off heat.
I have zero interest in repairing trucks.
And yet…
your story-telling keeps me watching until the end of
EVERY.
SINGLE.
VIDEO.
you post 👏🏽
This is such a relatable video.
In other news, very excited to see them Cummins 2.8 in there!
I admire and am jealous of the overall quality of this Land Cruiser. Despite the issues you've had, it is truly a one-of-a-kind, "lifetime" vehicle once sorted. Don't lose hope!
I'm sure you've considered making a heat shield or lowering exhaust gas temps - so it's not even worth mentioning!
Dude...bullnose ceramic tile clamped to the hose. The space shuttle uses ceramic tiles to insulate against extreme heat. Try it! It will work wonders!
Find, buy, and install a 'Turbo Blanket'. It will help with excess heat. Good luck!
Slap a 90° on the existing outlet....longer (4")thermal hose with fire guard....🤺🥸 Your the man Van....just 2000 miles away ❤😉
i need more of this art in my life.
Watch you at the second the notifications lets me know, I stop work and life to watch you. Love from Mexio City!
Great video. This is what sets you apart from everyone else. Such a simple mundane subject you’ve made artistic. Brilliant.
Love the Punch-Drunk Love references!
High temp RTV tape. It come in red. Wrap it covering each previous strip 50%. Cover as much as you feel will work. String tie each side to prevent unraveling. Done.
I feel your pain. i worked on VW bugs. I always had oil Leaks....
braising a pipe extender to the turbo so it goes past the exhaust manafold and then attach the host to the pipe.
I’m really excited to hear that diesel engine after it’s installed!
Upgrade to an aluminum line/hose. They sell crimped hoses that are easy to bend if needed.
Can you try a heat shield product to coat the hose? For example, Armor Shield IX DIY Kit consumer-grade ceramic coating on the market. With a mirror-like shine and the ease of cleaning it, you’ll fall in love with your vehicle all over again.
You can buy fire sleeve for hoses to put over your replacement drain hose
Sounds like your hose needs some insulation to protect it from the heat. If you can glue some rockwool on the hose near the manifold you should have adequate protection.
The bolt commentary, LOL... sooooo true man, so true..
I've somewhat given up on mechanical repairs but I know your pain, sometimes they don't get it right either
I did a quick search for hoses that can withstand 1000F (how hot a exhaust gets) closest was 340F silicone hose. I did find a all metal oil return hose that can handle 1000F but it costs $560 USD. i believe you could reroute the exhaust cheaper than the cost of the hose.
It may be possible to attach a metal tube to the turbo until it is past the exhaust then attach your rubber hose to complete the connection.
I've met so many of those bolts that made me question my life choices, I finally ran out of questions. Speaking as a career diesel tech.
Pudding bucket reservoir - brilliant !
Common metals ranked by thermal conductivity :
1 Copper 223
2 Aluminum 118
3 Brass 64
4 Steel 17
5 Bronze 15
You're welcome
The aluminum shield is a good idea, but it has to avoid contact with the hose. It should block radiation and dissipate it in the air. Look at every heat shield in the history of cars... always away from the hot part and away from the cold ones as well
@@jcvanier Might also need to insulate with something like ceramic
It ain't going to work if the hose is touching the exhaust manifold regardless of the conductivity of the particular metal. Polished aluminum is used extensively as a radiant heat barrier, but it doesn't work if there is actual contact.
thank you spirited man !
You need to put an aerogell filled jacket on that hose, or change to a high temp hose type.
If I had this issue I'd install a braided line as it provides better heat dissipation and make a stainless or aluminium plate with clamp that will offset the heat from the hose . But it doesn't matter I think the repair will last until the new engine, Van. Good stuff
"That one bolt"... Get some S-shaped spanners/wrenches, so useful!... Absolutely saved my sanity a few times.
Car repairs...the ultimate discipline of patience and perseverance that is fueled by necessity. This spirited woman both loves, and hates, the discipline of car repairs.
Heh this reminds me of working on copy machines, there was this one model that would dump toner all down inside the machine due to a design flaw, they redesigned it to add a plastic catch tray that just caught the spilt toner instead of fixing the spill problem.
That’s hilarious. Sounds like hell 😂
Yeap I understand. I have a leak with my car, some mechanics said that my car was a total lost. I went to another place, then they modify the oil consistency a little with an addictif and it doesn't leak anymore. For mine, it was a washer in the motor that was problematic. Only a washer, but I can't change it without removing the motor, disassembly, replace it, and assembly. The time spend will equal the price of the car. So I'm happy that the addictif solve my problem.
Awesome. I sure did think I was the only one that got himself into this kind of situation. Did anyone else know that for 2005 BMW R1200 GS’s the horn only works when the bike is either in gear or moving.. I sure didn’t. Re-Wired it twice. Thought I screwed it up lost 3 weekends.
Got news for you bro-kind -- your truck BLOWS. Love ya man...
get the most expansive and best exhaust manifold titan heat wrap, and custom braided oil lines
Such a fan of the spirited man. Lots of love from India.
Just learned about Van, The Spirited Man, yesterday, from The Bertcast. Great episode, that was highly entertaining. You both seem like kindred “spirits”. A new friendship was forged, and I look forward to the next time you guys get together for a podcast. Just went down the rabbit hole on a few of your vids. Thx for the great content. Liked, abd subbed!🙂
Ironically enough in my line of work in large factories that don't shut down much there are temporary " Drip bags" hung from leaks that fix the problem for many years.....
Why not just add a spacer to the the turbo manifold and relocate the turbo slightly? If it was angled or offset slightly then it would allow you to avoid burning through the hose.
1:25, brilliant.
Look up Vibrant Performance. Get a velcro fire jacket. Replace hose. Install high temp fire jacket.
Love the tory burch mecanic jumpsuit 🤣
Ahhhh the life of old car lovers. 21 years ago I started a simple job on my car…I’m still working on it.
There is a solution, you need to add some DEI heat shield to that hose. It comes in all sizes and is made for exactly that.
surround the hose with kevlar then your metal and put fins in it to dissipate heat.
“Heat shield on between the manifold and the oil return” the comment I was about to hit send on right when Van said that 😂
Hope to see a video of the R2.8 install and details on you will pass smog in ca.
I would look at clocking the turbo's core, or making (maybe ordering laser cut) a 1/2" spacer plate between the turbo exhaust flange and the manifold. Looks like there is plenty of room to move the turbo outboard a 1/2".
Then if possible add a steel tube off the turbo drain past the manifold, and make a small heat shield between line and manifold.
Wrap the return line and manifold are that is too close with a little insulation and then heat tape.