Congrats on bringing her back to life. I remember her well growing up in Picton in the 60's, with my father owning "Rongo" part of the Red Funnel fleet. She is a typical Carey build, built like a brick toulet, totally reliable and more than capable of handling some biig big seas
Thanks, one of the reasons other than her design, etc we wanted to purchase her was because of the historical attachment to the area, needing to make sure we get her back to a high standard and eventually when she is passed on to a new owner she'll be great for another 50 years
Good to see you making progress. I am in Tasmania with an old wooden fishing boat. I am a few years ahead of you. But my boat had similar issues with rot. I just cut it out and replaced what I needed to. New timber and resin with sawdust is a good filler solution. I also noticed a little bit of mold in the wheelhouse. Windex sprayed on then wiped off is a great and easy way to remove mold. Do not be tempted to use flammable spray degreasers on the engine. A fellow on another Jetty had a huge explosion and severely burnt himself. The bilge pump came on and created a spark. I used to use it. I was lucky.
Thanks, I have a mate in the Huonsville who we stayed with a couple of years back, toured all round Tasmania as much as we could, next time I come over I want to spend some time at the timber boat museum, something I didn't have time to do, there is something about timber boats though isn't there
I felt a bit like that but they targeted several other boats in the same area so not personal, possibly the way I had her tied up left her stern overhanging the pontoon, drew attention to her, I guess they need consistency across the board
As a marine surveyer i measure vessels all the time it depends on what you are measuring for , instance is the shortest the instance company can get , for tonnage is on hold and deck lengths, for berthing is the maximum length they can charge but i recomend when ooking into a marina you quote the registered or official lenght
Thanks, interesting no more issues about her length, I did advise I was bang on 12 metres when I originally enquiried about a berth and double checked with them and was told no issues, the capstan was .8 metre in length the entire length 12.8 metres, I removed the capstan as I needed to do some repair work around the timbers, I think part of the issue was how I had her secured, her stern was jutting out a bit beyond the pontoon and brought attention to me..The capstan is not original and I note there has been some stress to the bow-hook in the area so I am seriously considering not reinstalling the heavy capstan and refurbishing this are to it's original condition, keep the water out from the timber-grain-ends and remove stress on this part of the boat. While all nice to have I think I can recover the anchor using the existing windlass and original roller, the area where the boat is going to be anchored will not involve big currents or great depths and will be quite sheltered although anchor recovery will require a bit more care not to bang it on the boat, alternatively I reinforce the area, reinstall it but do so before I decide to put her back out on a mooring, but I do enjoy the easy access for doing work in the Marina so this makes it difficult again re berth-size
As if a few inches would make a difference being on the T part of the marina arm , Im afraid 'IT`s" not known as the most friendly marina in NZ , The opposite . Now they are charging for shore power over the top of the rental charge (Witch did incorporate Power, Wonder if they drop the rental rate that had the power charge included?) Some horrendous bills for power already coming in .
Thanks, I get it, they need to ensure the water access is clear but when it is obvious there are a number of boats sitting in berths throughout the marina that are clearly bigger than what should be there, makes one wonder, rules are rules I suppose, I am seriously thinking of searching for a sheltered mooring to put her back onto in the ear future and saving some money to spend on her,
I hate the stuff about as much as I hate those little plastic electrical-block connectors...I hate how some folks use it as though it was a permanent fix-it then paint over it and pretend there was nothing to see here!!
The repair advice is good if you weren't 400ish miles away I would come help, some clarification the resin has to be Epoxy resin only I can't emphasize enough, EPOXY only, there's name brands and cheap brands the differences are not so important but it should be Epoxy. Grind back to good dry wood then fill with epoxy thickened with wood dust/sawdust/contents of sander bag you can also use colloidal silica and filler powder etc. Epoxy primer paint helps also. Its not particularly structural repair but still fine for what's there. the Ply repair I would scarf in then grind and fiberglass with epoxy over the joint. Ditch the Danforth get a modern plow or similar a nice one will nest into the bow roller nicely. Its the chain that holds the boat in place. 1960's Ply marine grade was great but its still got a life particularly if exposed to fresh water. advice above works but if it needs to be structural just epoxy in a new bit. That's a very cool boat man perfect for that area.
Hey thanks for the feedback really good to get these pearls of wisdom before I start the work, done once and right, shame you were too far away, thanks again
Is it worth considering making a new roller assembly that can fold back into the boat when it isn't in use? That would eliminate the length issue, but enable you to have a good length of anchor roller. You might need to add a davit by the stem to lift the anchor off easily though.
Still thinking through the processes and possibilities, also possibly refurbishing this area to the original condition but an ongoing think fest in due course will come up with a suitable solution...maybe
Yes bit of conundrum really, love having the boat in the Marina, we wanted her there so I could get my wife on and off because she was unwell, now I am getting some work done, can't move her until this is completed and seriously contemplating putting her back onto a mooring, need to play the game I suppose and follow the rules, now I can sort the repairs under the bow-roller assembly properly now anyway so silver linings
Congrats on bringing her back to life. I remember her well growing up in Picton in the 60's, with my father owning "Rongo" part of the Red Funnel fleet. She is a typical Carey build, built like a brick toulet, totally reliable and more than capable of handling some biig big seas
Thanks, one of the reasons other than her design, etc we wanted to purchase her was because of the historical attachment to the area, needing to make sure we get her back to a high standard and eventually when she is passed on to a new owner she'll be great for another 50 years
Good to see you making progress. I am in Tasmania with an old wooden fishing boat. I am a few years ahead of you. But my boat had similar issues with rot. I just cut it out and replaced what I needed to. New timber and resin with sawdust is a good filler solution. I also noticed a little bit of mold in the wheelhouse. Windex sprayed on then wiped off is a great and easy way to remove mold. Do not be tempted to use flammable spray degreasers on the engine. A fellow on another Jetty had a huge explosion and severely burnt himself. The bilge pump came on and created a spark. I used to use it. I was lucky.
Thanks, I have a mate in the Huonsville who we stayed with a couple of years back, toured all round Tasmania as much as we could, next time I come over I want to spend some time at the timber boat museum, something I didn't have time to do, there is something about timber boats though isn't there
What a bunch of tossers!!! The marina guys!++
I felt a bit like that but they targeted several other boats in the same area so not personal, possibly the way I had her tied up left her stern overhanging the pontoon, drew attention to her, I guess they need consistency across the board
As a marine surveyer i measure vessels all the time it depends on what you are measuring for , instance is the shortest the instance company can get , for tonnage is on hold and deck lengths, for berthing is the maximum length they can charge but i recomend when ooking into a marina you quote the registered or official lenght
Thanks, interesting no more issues about her length, I did advise I was bang on 12 metres when I originally enquiried about a berth and double checked with them and was told no issues, the capstan was .8 metre in length the entire length 12.8 metres, I removed the capstan as I needed to do some repair work around the timbers, I think part of the issue was how I had her secured, her stern was jutting out a bit beyond the pontoon and brought attention to me..The capstan is not original and I note there has been some stress to the bow-hook in the area so I am seriously considering not reinstalling the heavy capstan and refurbishing this are to it's original condition, keep the water out from the timber-grain-ends and remove stress on this part of the boat. While all nice to have I think I can recover the anchor using the existing windlass and original roller, the area where the boat is going to be anchored will not involve big currents or great depths and will be quite sheltered although anchor recovery will require a bit more care not to bang it on the boat, alternatively I reinforce the area, reinstall it but do so before I decide to put her back out on a mooring, but I do enjoy the easy access for doing work in the Marina so this makes it difficult again re berth-size
As if a few inches would make a difference being on the T part of the marina arm , Im afraid 'IT`s" not known as the most friendly marina in NZ , The opposite . Now they are charging for shore power over the top of the rental charge (Witch did incorporate Power, Wonder if they drop the rental rate that had the power charge included?) Some horrendous bills for power already coming in .
Thanks, I get it, they need to ensure the water access is clear but when it is obvious there are a number of boats sitting in berths throughout the marina that are clearly bigger than what should be there, makes one wonder, rules are rules I suppose, I am seriously thinking of searching for a sheltered mooring to put her back onto in the ear future and saving some money to spend on her,
Bill, I am afraid it only goes big time up the power and the birth rates, so soon you can not afford it unless you very wealthy.
That anchor looks a little small for your boat?
Squeeze in sealer is definitely the enemy of boats if used in the wrong areas
I hate the stuff about as much as I hate those little plastic electrical-block connectors...I hate how some folks use it as though it was a permanent fix-it then paint over it and pretend there was nothing to see here!!
The repair advice is good if you weren't 400ish miles away I would come help, some clarification the resin has to be Epoxy resin only I can't emphasize enough, EPOXY only, there's name brands and cheap brands the differences are not so important but it should be Epoxy. Grind back to good dry wood then fill with epoxy thickened with wood dust/sawdust/contents of sander bag you can also use colloidal silica and filler powder etc. Epoxy primer paint helps also. Its not particularly structural repair but still fine for what's there. the Ply repair I would scarf in then grind and fiberglass with epoxy over the joint.
Ditch the Danforth get a modern plow or similar a nice one will nest into the bow roller nicely. Its the chain that holds the boat in place.
1960's Ply marine grade was great but its still got a life particularly if exposed to fresh water. advice above works but if it needs to be structural just epoxy in a new bit.
That's a very cool boat man perfect for that area.
Hey thanks for the feedback really good to get these pearls of wisdom before I start the work, done once and right, shame you were too far away, thanks again
Is it worth considering making a new roller assembly that can fold back into the boat when it isn't in use? That would eliminate the length issue, but enable you to have a good length of anchor roller. You might need to add a davit by the stem to lift the anchor off easily though.
Still thinking through the processes and possibilities, also possibly refurbishing this area to the original condition but an ongoing think fest in due course will come up with a suitable solution...maybe
You're nicer than I would of been. Fancy having remove parts of the boat for a few inches. Will that make a difference. Who needs those inches.
Yes bit of conundrum really, love having the boat in the Marina, we wanted her there so I could get my wife on and off because she was unwell, now I am getting some work done, can't move her until this is completed and seriously contemplating putting her back onto a mooring, need to play the game I suppose and follow the rules, now I can sort the repairs under the bow-roller assembly properly now anyway so silver linings
Who runs the marina!??? Jacinta aaahhhderrn💩
Find a new marina they have gone woke