* *Update* * Another note on safety when testing live voltage: In the video it is recommended to always check the multimeter leads for damage before use as well as to hold the multimeter leads from the insulated handle. For additional layer of safety, its best to wear electrical safety gloves and to only hold the multimeter in one hand at any given time. Holding the multimeter leads in one hand will prevent electricity from passing from one side of the body to the other in the case of a shock. This is known as the "one hand rule".
This is exactly what I want in a video. Succinct and to the point! No 11+ minute video with sponsored content, just the information we need! Thank you!
You're welcome Danny! We try to make all of our videos informative and clear with animations and good examples. All without wasting time on other things. If you're curious, then check out our channel for more!
As others have said, this should be the gold standard for these kinds of videos. I love that it is fact based and straight to the point without any tangents, personal anecdotes, 5-20 minutes of a the author finding his volt meter, sponsored advertising, or any extra information that distracts from the point of the video. Instant subscribe and like.
Excellent video. Just enough detail to cover all the bases without making viewers waste time with a lot of chatter. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! If you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist that many people have found useful: ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp
Thank you for this video! I have tested multiple wall outlets but there was one that violently sparked and scared me half to death. I did not know to put the ground probe into the neutral first then the positive probe to hot. I've always wondered what went wrong that day but now i know. I can breathe easier now next time I have to test one.
A better technique to hold test probes is to put both in one hand. That way, if you get shocked, the electricity won't travel across your body. AMRE should re-shoot this one; who knows, that might save a life.
Thank you for watching. You are right that for additional safety, in the case of damaged probes, holding the probes in one hand will prevent electricity from traveling across the body. This is why we always recommend inspecting the probes before each use.
@@redfishcrawfish3647which is neutral I'm new to being a maintenance tech for rentals all I know is carpentry landscaping and Minor plumbing.electricity spooks me
Since my multimeter itself is suspect, this fine video shows me how to test the multimeter itself for correct operation. Everything I needed to know, without a 9-or-more-minute version. Besides, now I finally know (after who knows how many dozens of videos) how to tell the hot input from the neutral input for typical modern receptacles already installed. Many thanks!
We're glad that you found the animation helpful! Since electricity is hard to see directly, the water analogy definitely helps put it into perspective.
Thanks for watching, it depends on what you are measuring between. If you test voltage between the hot and ground, there should be 120V. Testing between the neutral and ground there should be no continuity. As for a grounding sheet, it's recommended to only use products specifically designed and tested to be used with 120V outlets.
Thanks for watching. In this case, this is testing voltage which is a test done with the power connected. This will test if there is the potential for electricity to flow. Turning the power off will show a reading of 0 volts as there is no potential for electricity to flow.
Excellent video, many thanks! Very clear and concise. With electrical stuff, there should be no ambiguity. Use one hand only not both, Put neg in first, then positive, using one hand. In case of current, you won't complete the circuit. This is a stupid question but... was the switch to that outlet ON or OFF when you did that test? I don't want to assume anything. I know nothing about electricity.
Thanks for watching. The breaker was on, and this test was testing voltage which is the potential difference between the hot and neutral lines. This video goes over the basics ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBycw9hZVfYFc6Sw2Jlavaak But when working with anything electrical it's always recommended to be safe and it can still be good to call an electrician.
Probably obvious to others, but to reiterate a point for people like me who don't listen very well, turn the multimeter setting to Volts AC (that's Alpha-Charlie), not Volts DC.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! If you're interested, this video is actually part of a larger video on multimeters and there are several more videos like this on circuits and component testing: ruclips.net/video/SnRXD-0oXZo/видео.html
Hi Geri, thank you for watching. If there is a power surge then the electricity might travel through the ground wires in a home to ground if it was the path with the least resistance. Since a ground wire already provides a good path to ground, it is unlikely that a power surge or lightning strike would travel out through the ground plug on a correctly wired outlet as any other path would have a higher resistance.
Thanks for watching. Do you know for sure that the two outlets are part of the same circuit as the lights and ceiling fan? If not then reset the breaker for the outlets. If they are part of the same circuit, and if the outlets are in any way connected to a GFCI then try resetting the GFCI outlet.
Thank you Robert! If you're curious this video is cut from a longer video on Multimeter and Electricity Basics which covers some of the same topics but more on the setup of the multimeter: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
Thanks for watching. That is still within the acceptable 5% +/- range. What type of light is flickering? Are you using a dimmer by chance? Are they LEDs?
@@AmreSupply dimmer yes but not leds; regular bulbs. Had an electrician come out and stated the circuit breakers were fine. Utility company came out and said the same. Any suggestions appreciated.
@@sanitary103 Best to check the dimmer to make sure its compatible with your bulbs, mismatches can happen. Also if the dimmer switch is older and been used a lot then it might be worth replacing or upgrading. As well a loose connection to one of the fixtures, or the switch could cause some flickering.
Hello, should there be connectivity between ground and neutral? Also i dont have 120V between neutral and hot but i do have between hot and ground. What's wrong with my outlet power? Thanks for any help you may provide.
Thank you for watching. There should be no voltage between ground and neutral. There should be 120V between hot and neutral as well as 120V between hot and ground. If there is no voltage between hot and neutral then there could be a loose connection on the receptacle or an issue inside of the receptacle. If all the connections are good, then it could be an issue with one of the wires.
Thanks for watching. We actually have a video that goes into more of the other settings of the multimeter. You can watch it here: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
So on my GFCI receptacle that always trips for no reason the top outlet give me the following readings: hot to neutral - 120v. Hot to ground - 120v. Neutral to ground -0v. On the bottom outlet I get the following readings. Hot to neutral - 120v. Hot to ground - 16v. Neutral to ground -0v. Any idea what’s up with the hot to ground on the bottom outlet on the receptacle? Could this be the reason it’s trips all the time? There is nothing on the load side of the outlet. Just a single receptacle in a bathroom.
Thanks for watching. From what you're describing it could be an issue with the connections which would explain why it would continue to trip even without a load. If the connections are all wired correctly and are secure, and it still continues to trip then you might need to install a new GFCI receptacle.
I had a surge in my power this morning when I turned on my skillet (fried a surge protector), and now I only enough power throughout the house to run lights; nothing significant will run. Checked the power at outside and inside box and they both display the right power. Any help would be appreciated. Ty.
Thanks for watching. We do have a video explaining more of the setup of the multimeter: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html however it does not talk about the internal fuses or anything in-depth like that.
Thanks for watching. If you are testing 98V at 4 of your outlets then that's a little low. If you have an older home it could be an issue with the wiring as homes with aluminum wires can have issues. It could also be a bad wire connection or an issue with one of the outlets, or light switches in the same circuit. In this case it would be good to get this inspected by a electrician.
Newbie here. Quick question: for the voltage reading between hot and neutral, if you inserted the black lead to hot and red lead to neutral, would you get a negative 120V reading?
@@kimbuck-2 Receptacles are AC so no you would not read -120 volts. When testing AC(most things are ac), you can use whichever lead you want and it doesn’t matter at all if you have them backwards or not, because ac moves back and forth. The only time you will read negative voltage is if you are testing DC voltage. On dc it actually does matter which probe you use, since dc voltage travels in one direction only. There’s absolutely no risk to the meter or user if you use them backwards, you’ll just read negative voltage
New outlets require both neutral and hot to be plugged at the same time to open contacts. I don't know if Canada has adopted this standard at this time, but assume so or assume it will happen soon. "Neutral First" can't be done with the child safe outlets. Plunging both at the same time works.
Hi, I have a type F socket and want to test of which one is hot and neutral. I plug the probe into one of the hole in the socket and one to the ground pin. Turns out both have the reading of 52 V and 72 V. I tried to connect both of the hole (hot and neutral) the reading was 220 V (I lived in Indonesia). Any idea why both of the holes have reading to the ground? Thanks
Thanks for watching. If you test between neutral and ground there should be no significant voltage. 50V is quite a lot. If there is voltage than it could be an issue with how the wires are connected or an issue with another outlet or fixture down the line.
If I'm stupid, just tell me so. I have two outlets (out of 3) in a room that do not work. My circuit breakers merely say "lights and plugs". I want to pull the base plugs and check the wiring, but I do not know how to tell if the plug is live. Since the base plug is not "on", I cannot tell if I switch off a circuit breaker, if it's the correct on. Will a multimeter provide that info? THANK YOU
Hi Kerry, thank you for watching. That is a great question. What you want is a NCVT ( non-contact voltage tester) which works by detecting the magnetic field around an electrical outlet or light. You can use this to confirm if the power is indeed shut off. NCVT are listed here: www.amresupply.com/part/9462517 Without a NCVT you can still use a multimeter to test between the hot and neutral or hot and ground to see if there is electricity supplied through the wires.
Thanks for watching. Even though the AC current is changing directions, its best to think of the neutral as a return path, and the hot as the supply. Placing one lead of the multimeter into the neutral will not energize the other multimeter lead. It will only be energized when you connect it to the hot terminal.
Thanks for watching. When testing voltage there should be no more than 5% variation. If you're only getting 10V then there is likely an issue with the wires or the connection at this outlet or even the outlets upstream of this receptacle.
Hi before I watched your video, I was checking my wall outlet with the multimeter I have. A cheap one. When I plugged in the second lead into the wall outlet, the black lead launched out out smoke came out of the outlet. I can’t remember if I put it in the hot, neutral, or ground. I read you can switch the red in the black to test for reverse wiring. No? Anyway, why was I almost electrocuted? Because I “energized” the lead with the hot connection like you said in the video? Would plugging the black lead into the hot cause this? Or… is it because I had the red-positive wire plugged into the 10ADC of the multimeter? Because I had the dial accidentally set to DC? The outlet has two plugs and one was connected to a power strip, I was testing the other one, is that why?
Thanks for watching. Its essential to have the multimeter set up correctly, but that shouldn't create smoke out of the outlet. It would best to turn off the breaker to that outlet until it is fixed. If could be an issue with the wiring, debris in the outlet or there was arcing between the connections. This might be difficult to narrow down so it would best to contact an electrician.
@@AmreSupply Good idea. But I changed the outlet already. I believe it was loose connections. The outlet always had this ozone smell to it. The quick connections were used, which I understand are not code approved, possibly faulty. After I changed it, no issues. (Edit) I did see some video of a guy with popular cheap multimeter and the exact same thing happened (black connector of lead separated completely). in that case it was the multimeter had very thin copper in the lead, which probably couldn't handle the current it was claiming. So I upgraded to Klein, jut in case. Thanks for great videos!
Thanks for watching. If the multimeter is rated for more than that voltage, if the leads are not damaged in any way, and it is on the right setting then it will work for testing voltage.
What specs do the multimeter need to perform this test? My multimeter says 10A Fused. Does that matter? Does amperage need to be tested as well or do only volts matter?
Thanks for watching. That is a good question. When measuring voltage a small amount of current will be passing through the multimeter, but nowhere close to 10A. The multimeter only lets enough current pass through that is needed for the voltage measurement.
@@AmreSupply . Ok. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that my 10A/600V multimeter (Fluke 107) can test household outlets. This is my first multimeter and I appreciate any feedback. Thanks!!
@@MrSupernova111 Yes that multimeter will work and for context the multimeter used in the video is also a 10A/600V meter. Additionally there will not be 10 amps flowing through when testing voltage while on the VAC setting.
What would case a ceiling light socket (that doesn't work btw) to display 192 volts on my multimeter? This is the reading when I turn on the switch with my multimeter in place.
Whatever the voltage is, it should be consistent, correct? Trying to see if our voltage is fluctuating or dropping too low and causing four separate battery backups (in different offices) to beep and click off at the same time as well as wake up the copier and plotter. Great explanation in this video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found the video helpful. The voltage will fluctuate as different devices and appliances turn on and off. A large inductive load like a dryer requires a lot of power during startup and one might often see their lights dim for a moment when the motor is started. In your case it would depend on what circuits each office is on. Having too many devices on a circuit might trip the circuit breaker. If you test the outlets there might be a variance of around +6% or -13% depending on the utilization. So a voltage of 104.4 - 127.2 is still perfectly normal voltage-disturbance.com/voltage-quality/voltage-tolerance-standard-ansi-c84-1/
Thanks for watching! In this video the multimeter was set to the volts AC (alternating current) option "V~" not the DC (direct current) "V - - -" setting. in this meter it is auto ranging so there's only one option for VAC. In some meters you'll have several options of Volts AC. For example if you have a 200 VAC, and 500 VAC setting, those refer to the maximum voltage that can be detected within that range. In that case you'd want to choose the 200 VAC option as you'll only have to test 120 volts.
if outlet is broken in some way and has higher voltage than 200 what will happen if setting on 200? I just suspect the outlet might be too "hot" since we have had two microwaves spark from that outlet
Thanks for watching. In North America, households use 120V 60hz power in residential homes. Fluctuations within 10% are normal. Outside of that requires inspection from an electrician.
what happens if the voltage measurement of my socket-outlet is different from 120 volts when I measure the voltage between the hot and ground? it's around 16 volts
Thanks for watching. That is a lot of voltage leaking to ground. It could be an issue with the wiring insulation or one of the connections at the outlet or down the line at another fixture. It might be best to get it professionally inspected.
Thanks for watching. You can insert both leads at the same time. In this video we just mentioned the order to point out the fact that how you place the leads in can cause on lead to become energized if you're not careful.
Thanks for watching. This video is a small segment which was originally in the larger video on multimeters and electricity basics. Repair and Replace is the overall series, but some videos are more knowledge than practical. We created this to help with the appliance repair videos which requires some working knowledge of circuits and how to test components. ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBzlEqde1FSEIuCg2hx6_H-_ During this electrical series we didn't dive as deep into replacing outlets or switches but we might continue this series after releasing more appliance repair videos. Refrigerator repair videos are going to be released soon.
I did this test on a surge protector that was plugged into an outlet. As soon as I entered the black lead into the neutral, before entering the red one into the live, there was a small flash and smoke and the black lead’s metal got burnt out. Wonder what happened there
Thank you, we try to make all of our videos clear and to the point. If you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist with videos with a lot of these same sorts of graphics: ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp
Thanks for watching. If all outlets and breakers show 44 volts it's possible that it's an issue with your multimeter. If your appliances and lights are working correctly then that points to the multimeter as being the problem. If you have an older multimeter or a cheap one, then it might be good to check with a different multimeter before anything else. If that doesn't help then there's a larger issue and you should call an electrician to do an inspection.
Thanks for watching. You can plug something into that outlet that works in another outlet. As well you can use a dedicated receptacle tester: www.amresupply.com/part/GRT-3500-RECEPTACLE-TESTER
Thanks for watching. This is a test for voltage which is testing the potential for electricity to flow. Turning off the power will mean that there will not be any voltage and you won't be able to measure anything. However when it comes to installing or replacing receptacles, you will always need to shut off the breakers first.
Why do all outlets that have old bx wire give me a 120 reading both ways? My handheld outlet tester says they are wired correctly and there's no way they are all wired backwards
Hi Justin, thank you for watching. If all your outlets show (120V between Hot and ground) as well as (120V between neutral to ground) then its likely an issue with how the neutral is connected at the breaker panel. In this case you'll want to get this checked out by an electrician.
@@AmreSupply I recently had my whole panel replaced by an electrician and like I said, this only happens on my handful of outlets that have the original 75 year old bx wires.
@@justinparnell6873 Thank you for clarifying. In that case its possible that one of the neutral bx wires that is somewhere connected to a hot downstream in the circuit. This could from one of the outlet or possible a 2 or 3 way light switch if those are still using the bx wires.
Okay so I did exactly like the video showed and there was a spark followed by the breaker popping. I have no idea what is wrong with the outlet but I think I'll just never use it from now on
Thanks for watching. Tripping the breaker during a multimeter test can happen if the multimeter was not set to the proper setting. It is possible you created short circuit, causing the current to rise and trip the breaker. ruclips.net/video/SnRXD-0oXZo/видео.html In most cases you should be able to reset the breaker. If you are unsure or think the outlet is wired incorrectly then you can always call an electrician to take a closer look.
@@AmreSupply thanks. I made sure to have it on volts ac. My guess is the outlet was installed upside down or something. I reset the breaker but there was crackling noises so I opened it back up
Although the video doesn't reveal the wiring of the outlet, you can see the color of the wires that connect to a outlet in the animation. I find it counter-intuitive that the RED probe from the multimeter tests the side of the narrow slot wired with a BLACK wire; and that the BLACK probe tests the wide slot wired with a WHITE wire... can you explain why this inconsistancy exists... BLACK being COM on the multimeter, and HOT on the plug side. It seems that the black probe should test the side of the plug wired by the black wire.
Thanks for watching. When you look at other wiring black and red does not always indicate what is hot, one example would be a 3 way switch. It's always best to go by the terminals, terminal names or numbers depending on what sort of test is being done with the multimeter.
This means that there is voltage leakage. Moisture can cause this to happen. Alternatively it could be an issue with the receptacle connects or the ground wire in the system.
It is not safe to put any tool into the outlet and don't assume that the neutral or ground wires are ever safe. There are cases where the neutral or ground wires are not wired correctly and can still electrocute someone. Best to be careful in all scenarios.
The last test you conducted was Neutral and Ground. I have found other resources that connect the black probe to the ground and the red probe to the Neutral. Does particular probe placement matter between Neutral and Ground? Great video, hard to find people that teach properly. Even the book I'm reading says, "test ground to ground" which I imagine is typo. Nobody has content to help me clarify besides this video. Thank you!
Thanks for watching. When testing between neutral and ground, it is more likely for neutral to be accidentally wired as the hot wire. Technically speaking for maximum safety it would make sense to use the red probe to test the neutral and the black probe to test the ground. In most cases testing between neutral and ground will not have any voltage. Switching around the probes won't affect the reading it just changes which probe might be energized in some models of multimeters. For additional safety you can always wear rubberized gloves and only hold the multimeter probes in one hand placing the probes in one by one.
Long live the Lizard🦎🤴🏻King !!! Such an amazing & awesome poet ! The poor 27 club 😔fame seekers. It hurts my heart. But my heart is stronger than their magic. 😉
Hi Katherine, thank you for watching. Its possible that the multimeter leads were not connect to the right spot on the multimeter and you likely blew the internal fuse. In a different video we covered how to setup a multimeter in a little bit more detail. Its worth watching to see if that was the case. ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
Why would connecting the red probe to live increase the chance of a shock, when you've got an alternating voltage coming out of the plugs, its not like the polarity matters. That rule surely must be the same the other way around.
Thanks for watching. That part of the video was talking about having 1 probe inserted into the hot terminal, the other probe will be energized. When inserting into the neutral (it is not hot) so the other probe would not be energized in this case.
Thanks for watching. Is your multimeter auto-ranging? If it has multiple VAC settings then a improper range can create issues. An arc could also indicate that there was an internal issue with the multimeter itself. As well check that the multimeter leads were set up correctly: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
I don’t wanna carry a multimeter with me but I’m going on a multiple country trip that’s going to take 6 to 12 months to complete with no certain itinerary. I’ll be hitting countries like Vietnam Cambodia, Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia. Is there a lightweight, small tester other than a multimeter that I can probe a plug or plug something into the plug. Especially for the Philippines I’ve heard that they have regular American standard plugs three prong And it could be running something like 240 maybe. Anyway, the wiring in the Philippines sounds very dangerous. Amongst other places I’m sure. I’m not real familiar with testers, but there’s got to be something I can throw in my bag that’s not too heavy just a test before I plug in my phone and fry it or plug in my rechargeable speaker and fry it .
Thanks for watching. There are receptacle testers but most of them are configured specifically for one region, voltage and type of plug: www.amresupply.com/part/GFI-3501-GFI-RECEPTACLE-TESTR There might be universal testers out there that come with adapters and different ranges. Not sure though. A tester like this is not that much smaller than a small multimeter so you wouldn't be saving that much weight overall.
wait a minute, isn't the black supposed to go into the hot wire and the red goes into neutral ? because you know, black is always hot and red or white is neutral. ????
Thanks for watching. We made a video (which shares some shots from this) that explains how to setup a multimeter. This is based on the multimeter that we're using and it's shown here: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
Thanks for watching. A normal 120 volt outlet will have a variance of about +/- 5%. In your case 128 is getting to be a little bit on the high side, but keep in mind that the accuracy of your multimeter. If you're using an analog one it could be out by a couple volts. Now if only one outlet is reading that high then it could be an issue with the wiring or the circuit breaker.
Thanks for watching. If the multimeter reads 125 volts then thats within the normal acceptable variance. The voltage in a homes outlet is not exactly 120V and can range from 110 up to 125 or so.
Thanks for watching. The multimeter does have an internal fuse, which can be accessed from the back plate. If the fuse is blown the replacing the fuse will get your multimeter working again.
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* *Update* * Another note on safety when testing live voltage: In the video it is recommended to always check the multimeter leads for damage before use as well as to hold the multimeter leads from the insulated handle. For additional layer of safety, its best to wear electrical safety gloves and to only hold the multimeter in one hand at any given time. Holding the multimeter leads in one hand will prevent electricity from passing from one side of the body to the other in the case of a shock. This is known as the "one hand rule".
This is exactly what I want in a video. Succinct and to the point! No 11+ minute video with sponsored content, just the information we need! Thank you!
You're welcome Danny! We try to make all of our videos informative and clear with animations and good examples. All without wasting time on other things. If you're curious, then check out our channel for more!
As others have said, this should be the gold standard for these kinds of videos. I love that it is fact based and straight to the point without any tangents, personal anecdotes, 5-20 minutes of a the author finding his volt meter, sponsored advertising, or any extra information that distracts from the point of the video. Instant subscribe and like.
Thank you, we're just happy to help! It's taken a few years but we've figured out a format that balances detail with brevity.
Excellent video. Just enough detail to cover all the bases without making viewers waste time with a lot of chatter. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! If you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist that many people have found useful: ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp
Great to finally find a video that is short and to the point.
Thank you! We're glad that you found it helpful!
Why do I not get a voltage reading of 220 when both 110 circuits. Read correctly on the same circuit
@@AmreSupply Can I put the black prong in the small slot, and the red prong in the big slot, because my outlets were installed upside down.
Thank you for this video! I have tested multiple wall outlets but there was one that violently sparked and scared me half to death. I did not know to put the ground probe into the neutral first then the positive probe to hot. I've always wondered what went wrong that day but now i know. I can breathe easier now next time I have to test one.
You're welcome. We're just glad to share some helpful information.
Lol I just had the same revelation!
A better technique to hold test probes is to put both in one hand. That way, if you get shocked, the electricity won't travel across your body. AMRE should re-shoot this one; who knows, that might save a life.
Thank you for watching. You are right that for additional safety, in the case of damaged probes, holding the probes in one hand will prevent electricity from traveling across the body. This is why we always recommend inspecting the probes before each use.
@@redfishcrawfish3647which is neutral I'm new to being a maintenance tech for rentals all I know is carpentry landscaping and Minor plumbing.electricity spooks me
@@ChipChurpthe larger upper port on an outlet.
Ty sir watching your video made me feel confident at 9:30pm right before bed time had a outlet issue swapped it out safely
You're welcome! We're glad the video was helpful!
Clear. Simple. To the point. Thank you.
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info!
Since my multimeter itself is suspect, this fine video shows me how to test the multimeter itself for correct operation. Everything I needed to know, without a 9-or-more-minute version. Besides, now I finally know (after who knows how many dozens of videos) how to tell the hot input from the neutral input for typical modern receptacles already installed. Many thanks!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thanks mate
Perfectly worked
I saved $100
Good job keep it up
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thank you very much. Explained perfectly.
You're welcome! We're glad it was helpful!
Great video. Exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
So simple right to the point! ❤❤❤
Thank you!
Thank you so much. What a beautifully shot, well articulated, informative educational video. Thank you very much. I appreciate you.
Thank you for your kind words! We're just happy to help!
Great job - to the point and easy to understand!
Thank you, we're just happy to share some good info!
I've never conceptualised Voltage and Amps in that way, its much simpler!!
We're glad that you found the animation helpful! Since electricity is hard to see directly, the water analogy definitely helps put it into perspective.
Do you have a video on how to replace and or upgrade outlets?
Thanks for watching. Currently we do not have any tutorials on replacing outlets but there are many videos out there already.
Is it safe to plug in a grounding sheet into only the ground hole in the outlet if the reading is 0.1 ? Thank you for your clear and useful video!
Thanks for watching, it depends on what you are measuring between. If you test voltage between the hot and ground, there should be 120V. Testing between the neutral and ground there should be no continuity.
As for a grounding sheet, it's recommended to only use products specifically designed and tested to be used with 120V outlets.
@@AmreSupply You're the best, thank you!!😇
@@shedroids You're welcome!
Do you do this with the power on or do you need to cut the power first?
Thanks for watching. In this case, this is testing voltage which is a test done with the power connected. This will test if there is the potential for electricity to flow. Turning the power off will show a reading of 0 volts as there is no potential for electricity to flow.
Brief, short, simple, and very useful & important video thank you.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Excellent video, many thanks! Very clear and concise. With electrical stuff, there should be no ambiguity.
Use one hand only not both, Put neg in first, then positive, using one hand. In case of current, you won't complete the circuit.
This is a stupid question but... was the switch to that outlet ON or OFF when you did that test? I don't want to assume anything. I know nothing about electricity.
Thanks for watching. The breaker was on, and this test was testing voltage which is the potential difference between the hot and neutral lines. This video goes over the basics ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBycw9hZVfYFc6Sw2Jlavaak But when working with anything electrical it's always recommended to be safe and it can still be good to call an electrician.
Probably obvious to others, but to reiterate a point for people like me who don't listen very well, turn the multimeter setting to Volts AC (that's Alpha-Charlie), not Volts DC.
Thanks for watching that is a good clarification & reminder. We did go into more detail in this video: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
What happened if you don’t
Thanks for helping remember what I forgot. I’m ready!!!!
You're welcome! We're just happy to help!
Best. video. ever. For this topic - thank you.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! If you're interested, this video is actually part of a larger video on multimeters and there are several more videos like this on circuits and component testing: ruclips.net/video/SnRXD-0oXZo/видео.html
@@AmreSupply I am interested - thanks so much for sharing that playlist!
@@nicknormal You're very welcome! Enjoy!
Is it possible for the juice to flow through the ground plug on a correctly wired grounded outlet during a power surge or thunderstorm?
Hi Geri, thank you for watching. If there is a power surge then the electricity might travel through the ground wires in a home to ground if it was the path with the least resistance. Since a ground wire already provides a good path to ground, it is unlikely that a power surge or lightning strike would travel out through the ground plug on a correctly wired outlet as any other path would have a higher resistance.
This is a very good video that clearly explains the subject.
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
Quick question I have light and ceiling fan come on, but my two outlets do not work. What would you suggest?
Thanks for watching. Do you know for sure that the two outlets are part of the same circuit as the lights and ceiling fan? If not then reset the breaker for the outlets.
If they are part of the same circuit, and if the outlets are in any way connected to a GFCI then try resetting the GFCI outlet.
Excellent description about basic electrically and also testing a receptacle for proper wiring.
Thank you Robert! If you're curious this video is cut from a longer video on Multimeter and Electricity Basics which covers some of the same topics but more on the setup of the multimeter: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
Mine are reading 126v from neutral to hot and ground to ground to hot. Could this be the cause of light flickering?
Thanks for watching. That is still within the acceptable 5% +/- range. What type of light is flickering? Are you using a dimmer by chance? Are they LEDs?
@@AmreSupply dimmer yes but not leds; regular bulbs. Had an electrician come out and stated the circuit breakers were fine. Utility company came out and said the same. Any suggestions appreciated.
@@sanitary103 Best to check the dimmer to make sure its compatible with your bulbs, mismatches can happen. Also if the dimmer switch is older and been used a lot then it might be worth replacing or upgrading. As well a loose connection to one of the fixtures, or the switch could cause some flickering.
@@AmreSupply thanks a lot. Great video btw. It is appreciated.
@@sanitary103 You're welcome and we're glad that you found the video helpful!
Hello, should there be connectivity between ground and neutral? Also i dont have 120V between neutral and hot but i do have between hot and ground. What's wrong with my outlet power? Thanks for any help you may provide.
Thank you for watching. There should be no voltage between ground and neutral. There should be 120V between hot and neutral as well as 120V between hot and ground.
If there is no voltage between hot and neutral then there could be a loose connection on the receptacle or an issue inside of the receptacle. If all the connections are good, then it could be an issue with one of the wires.
Show what settings to use on multimeter
Thanks for watching. We actually have a video that goes into more of the other settings of the multimeter. You can watch it here: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
So on my GFCI receptacle that always trips for no reason the top outlet give me the following readings: hot to neutral - 120v. Hot to ground - 120v.
Neutral to ground -0v.
On the bottom outlet I get the following readings.
Hot to neutral - 120v.
Hot to ground - 16v.
Neutral to ground -0v.
Any idea what’s up with the hot to ground on the bottom outlet on the receptacle? Could this be the reason it’s trips all the time? There is nothing on the load side of the outlet. Just a single receptacle in a bathroom.
Thanks for watching. From what you're describing it could be an issue with the connections which would explain why it would continue to trip even without a load. If the connections are all wired correctly and are secure, and it still continues to trip then you might need to install a new GFCI receptacle.
I had a surge in my power this morning when I turned on my skillet (fried a surge protector), and now I only enough power throughout the house to run lights; nothing significant will run. Checked the power at outside and inside box and they both display the right power. Any help would be appreciated. Ty.
Thanks for watching. Have you checked and reset the breakers?
Excellent tip at 1:37.
Thanks for watching, we're just happy to help!
Brilliant video. Thank you!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Crystal clear. Thank you!
You're welcome Paul!
I think it would be good to explain where to plug the lead wires into the multimeter and why.
Thanks for watching. We do have a video explaining more of the setup of the multimeter: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html however it does not talk about the internal fuses or anything in-depth like that.
What if 4 of my outlets at home show 98v? any idea of what could be an issue?
Thanks for watching. If you are testing 98V at 4 of your outlets then that's a little low. If you have an older home it could be an issue with the wiring as homes with aluminum wires can have issues. It could also be a bad wire connection or an issue with one of the outlets, or light switches in the same circuit.
In this case it would be good to get this inspected by a electrician.
Thanks sir. I appreciate the knowledge.
You're welcome Walter, we're just happy to help!
Newbie here. Quick question: for the voltage reading between hot and neutral, if you inserted the black lead to hot and red lead to neutral, would you get a negative 120V reading?
Thanks for watching. Yes switching the multimeter leads would give you a negative 120V reading.
@@kimbuck-2 Receptacles are AC so no you would not read -120 volts. When testing AC(most things are ac), you can use whichever lead you want and it doesn’t matter at all if you have them backwards or not, because ac moves back and forth. The only time you will read negative voltage is if you are testing DC voltage. On dc it actually does matter which probe you use, since dc voltage travels in one direction only. There’s absolutely no risk to the meter or user if you use them backwards, you’ll just read negative voltage
Great video straight to the point
Thank you Anthony, we're just happy to help!
New outlets require both neutral and hot to be plugged at the same time to open contacts. I don't know if Canada has adopted this standard at this time, but assume so or assume it will happen soon. "Neutral First" can't be done with the child safe outlets. Plunging both at the same time works.
Thank you for sharing that info.
Thanks, good stuff. Even though our sockets and voltage are different, it was still helpful.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Great Video. Very clear and easy to follow!
Thank you Louis, we're glad that you found it helpful!
Hi, I have a type F socket and want to test of which one is hot and neutral. I plug the probe into one of the hole in the socket and one to the ground pin. Turns out both have the reading of 52 V and 72 V. I tried to connect both of the hole (hot and neutral) the reading was 220 V (I lived in Indonesia). Any idea why both of the holes have reading to the ground? Thanks
Thanks for watching. If you test between neutral and ground there should be no significant voltage. 50V is quite a lot. If there is voltage than it could be an issue with how the wires are connected or an issue with another outlet or fixture down the line.
If I'm stupid, just tell me so. I have two outlets (out of 3) in a room that do not work. My circuit breakers merely say "lights and plugs". I want to pull the base plugs and check the wiring, but I do not know how to tell if the plug is live. Since the base plug is not "on", I cannot tell if I switch off a circuit breaker, if it's the correct on. Will a multimeter provide that info? THANK YOU
Hi Kerry, thank you for watching. That is a great question. What you want is a NCVT ( non-contact voltage tester) which works by detecting the magnetic field around an electrical outlet or light. You can use this to confirm if the power is indeed shut off. NCVT are listed here: www.amresupply.com/part/9462517
Without a NCVT you can still use a multimeter to test between the hot and neutral or hot and ground to see if there is electricity supplied through the wires.
@@AmreSupply THANK YOU so very much.
@@kmacaitis You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Time 1:28 voltage testing
Thank u
Thanks for watching. That is why we have added chapters so people can easily skip to the segment they want to watch.
Why does the neutral wire get energized if you plug the hot wire first but not the other way around (plugging the neutral wire first)?
Thanks for watching. Even though the AC current is changing directions, its best to think of the neutral as a return path, and the hot as the supply. Placing one lead of the multimeter into the neutral will not energize the other multimeter lead. It will only be energized when you connect it to the hot terminal.
Thanks , But what if I dont know +ve? How to avoid the shock and measure the voltage ?
Thanks for watching. Holding the multimeter probes from the insulated handles will prevent a shock.
What if testing from ground to hot reads less than 120v like only 10v... what does that indicate?
Thanks for watching. When testing voltage there should be no more than 5% variation. If you're only getting 10V then there is likely an issue with the wires or the connection at this outlet or even the outlets upstream of this receptacle.
@@AmreSupply Thanks. It funally read 120v. I might have not inserted it correctly.
Hi before I watched your video, I was checking my wall outlet with the multimeter I have. A cheap one. When I plugged in the second lead into the wall outlet, the black lead launched out out smoke came out of the outlet. I can’t remember if I put it in the hot, neutral, or ground. I read you can switch the red in the black to test for reverse wiring. No?
Anyway, why was I almost electrocuted? Because I “energized” the lead with the hot connection like you said in the video? Would plugging the black lead into the hot cause this? Or… is it because I had the red-positive wire plugged into the 10ADC of the multimeter? Because I had the dial accidentally set to DC? The outlet has two plugs and one was connected to a power strip, I was testing the other one, is that why?
Thanks for watching. Its essential to have the multimeter set up correctly, but that shouldn't create smoke out of the outlet. It would best to turn off the breaker to that outlet until it is fixed.
If could be an issue with the wiring, debris in the outlet or there was arcing between the connections. This might be difficult to narrow down so it would best to contact an electrician.
@@AmreSupply Good idea. But I changed the outlet already. I believe it was loose connections. The outlet always had this ozone smell to it. The quick connections were used, which I understand are not code approved, possibly faulty. After I changed it, no issues. (Edit) I did see some video of a guy with popular cheap multimeter and the exact same thing happened (black connector of lead separated completely). in that case it was the multimeter had very thin copper in the lead, which probably couldn't handle the current it was claiming. So I upgraded to Klein, jut in case. Thanks for great videos!
Thanks for the update! You are right that not all multimeters are built to the same quality. The Klein will work well for you.
Is it safe to test plug with cheap multimeter? I have XL830L model
Thanks for watching. If the multimeter is rated for more than that voltage, if the leads are not damaged in any way, and it is on the right setting then it will work for testing voltage.
What specs do the multimeter need to perform this test? My multimeter says 10A Fused. Does that matter? Does amperage need to be tested as well or do only volts matter?
Thanks for watching. That is a good question. When measuring voltage a small amount of current will be passing through the multimeter, but nowhere close to 10A. The multimeter only lets enough current pass through that is needed for the voltage measurement.
@@AmreSupply . Ok. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that my 10A/600V multimeter (Fluke 107) can test household outlets. This is my first multimeter and I appreciate any feedback. Thanks!!
@@MrSupernova111 Yes that multimeter will work and for context the multimeter used in the video is also a 10A/600V meter. Additionally there will not be 10 amps flowing through when testing voltage while on the VAC setting.
@@AmreSupply . Thank you so much! Cheers!
@@MrSupernova111 You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
What if it's an old outlet where are the same size opening? How does one test then?
Thanks for watching. The outlet should still have a hot, neutral and ground. The testing should be the same.
What would case a ceiling light socket (that doesn't work btw) to display 192 volts on my multimeter? This is the reading when I turn on the switch with my multimeter in place.
Thanks for watching. It is likely an issue with the wires. It would be best to get this inspected by an electrician.
Whatever the voltage is, it should be consistent, correct? Trying to see if our voltage is fluctuating or dropping too low and causing four separate battery backups (in different offices) to beep and click off at the same time as well as wake up the copier and plotter. Great explanation in this video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching, we're glad that you found the video helpful. The voltage will fluctuate as different devices and appliances turn on and off. A large inductive load like a dryer requires a lot of power during startup and one might often see their lights dim for a moment when the motor is started. In your case it would depend on what circuits each office is on. Having too many devices on a circuit might trip the circuit breaker. If you test the outlets there might be a variance of around +6% or -13% depending on the utilization. So a voltage of 104.4 - 127.2 is still perfectly normal voltage-disturbance.com/voltage-quality/voltage-tolerance-standard-ansi-c84-1/
What is your setting on volt meter.
Thanks for watching! In this video the multimeter was set to the volts AC (alternating current) option "V~" not the DC (direct current) "V - - -" setting. in this meter it is auto ranging so there's only one option for VAC. In some meters you'll have several options of Volts AC. For example if you have a 200 VAC, and 500 VAC setting, those refer to the maximum voltage that can be detected within that range. In that case you'd want to choose the 200 VAC option as you'll only have to test 120 volts.
if outlet is broken in some way and has higher voltage than 200 what will happen if setting on 200? I just suspect the outlet might be too "hot" since we have had two microwaves spark from that outlet
Thanks for watching. In North America, households use 120V 60hz power in residential homes. Fluctuations within 10% are normal. Outside of that requires inspection from an electrician.
what happens if the voltage measurement of my socket-outlet is different from 120 volts when I measure the voltage between the hot and ground? it's around 16 volts
Thanks for watching. That is a lot of voltage leaking to ground. It could be an issue with the wiring insulation or one of the connections at the outlet or down the line at another fixture. It might be best to get it professionally inspected.
I have seen people take both leads and insert them in the hot and neutral at the same time.??
Thanks for watching. You can insert both leads at the same time. In this video we just mentioned the order to point out the fact that how you place the leads in can cause on lead to become energized if you're not careful.
Great info but wheres the repair and replace portion ?
Thanks for watching. This video is a small segment which was originally in the larger video on multimeters and electricity basics. Repair and Replace is the overall series, but some videos are more knowledge than practical. We created this to help with the appliance repair videos which requires some working knowledge of circuits and how to test components. ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBzlEqde1FSEIuCg2hx6_H-_
During this electrical series we didn't dive as deep into replacing outlets or switches but we might continue this series after releasing more appliance repair videos. Refrigerator repair videos are going to be released soon.
@@AmreSupply Thanks for the reply and heads up........ really useful info !
@@Oldbutschooled You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
I did this test on a surge protector that was plugged into an outlet. As soon as I entered the black lead into the neutral, before entering the red one into the live, there was a small flash and smoke and the black lead’s metal got burnt out. Wonder what happened there
Thanks for watching. There could be a wiring problem or the outlet could be faulty. The neutral should not have any voltage.
Well done, keep it up, thank you for sharing it with us :)
Thank you, we're working on some appliance repair videos right now and will be releasing a series on refrigerators soon!
Wow a video that is what is says it is!
Thank you, we try to make all of our videos clear and to the point. If you're curious we have a "how it works" playlist with videos with a lot of these same sorts of graphics: ruclips.net/p/PLCo9SMjkdWBxWwrWCmzvRMSi2kLo9bGdp
what if im reading 425 volts a/c?
Thanks for watching. What sort of outlet are you describing? Is this commercial or residential? Where in the world are you located?
Love this video
Thank you, we're glad that you liked it!
Why would my plugs, including checking the breakers, all come up with 44 volts on my multi meter?
Thanks for watching. If all outlets and breakers show 44 volts it's possible that it's an issue with your multimeter. If your appliances and lights are working correctly then that points to the multimeter as being the problem. If you have an older multimeter or a cheap one, then it might be good to check with a different multimeter before anything else. If that doesn't help then there's a larger issue and you should call an electrician to do an inspection.
What will happen if you put the two probe in hot wire only? 🤔
Thanks for watching. The multimeter will not be able to read a potential difference in voltage because the voltage on both probes are they same.
Can I test without that device?
Thanks for watching. You can plug something into that outlet that works in another outlet. As well you can use a dedicated receptacle tester: www.amresupply.com/part/GRT-3500-RECEPTACLE-TESTER
Should I turn the power off first before doing this
Thanks for watching. This is a test for voltage which is testing the potential for electricity to flow. Turning off the power will mean that there will not be any voltage and you won't be able to measure anything. However when it comes to installing or replacing receptacles, you will always need to shut off the breakers first.
Thank you so much for your video.
You are very welcome! We're just happy to help.
Thank you!!
You're welcome Ashley!
Thanks short and informative for dyi
You're welcome, we're glad that you found it helpful!
Why do all outlets that have old bx wire give me a 120 reading both ways? My handheld outlet tester says they are wired correctly and there's no way they are all wired backwards
Hi Justin, thank you for watching. If all your outlets show (120V between Hot and ground) as well as (120V between neutral to ground) then its likely an issue with how the neutral is connected at the breaker panel. In this case you'll want to get this checked out by an electrician.
@@AmreSupply I recently had my whole panel replaced by an electrician and like I said, this only happens on my handful of outlets that have the original 75 year old bx wires.
@@justinparnell6873 Thank you for clarifying. In that case its possible that one of the neutral bx wires that is somewhere connected to a hot downstream in the circuit. This could from one of the outlet or possible a 2 or 3 way light switch if those are still using the bx wires.
@@AmreSupply okay thanks. That's probably what it is since I have 2 original bx circuits both of witch both of which have outlets and lights on them.
Okay so I did exactly like the video showed and there was a spark followed by the breaker popping. I have no idea what is wrong with the outlet but I think I'll just never use it from now on
Thanks for watching. Tripping the breaker during a multimeter test can happen if the multimeter was not set to the proper setting. It is possible you created short circuit, causing the current to rise and trip the breaker.
ruclips.net/video/SnRXD-0oXZo/видео.html
In most cases you should be able to reset the breaker.
If you are unsure or think the outlet is wired incorrectly then you can always call an electrician to take a closer look.
@@AmreSupply thanks. I made sure to have it on volts ac. My guess is the outlet was installed upside down or something. I reset the breaker but there was crackling noises so I opened it back up
Great vid
Thank you!
Although the video doesn't reveal the wiring of the outlet, you can see the color of the wires that connect to a outlet in the animation. I find it counter-intuitive that the RED probe from the multimeter tests the side of the narrow slot wired with a BLACK wire; and that the BLACK probe tests the wide slot wired with a WHITE wire... can you explain why this inconsistancy exists... BLACK being COM on the multimeter, and HOT on the plug side. It seems that the black probe should test the side of the plug wired by the black wire.
Thanks for watching. When you look at other wiring black and red does not always indicate what is hot, one example would be a 3 way switch. It's always best to go by the terminals, terminal names or numbers depending on what sort of test is being done with the multimeter.
My ground to hot is only 8-9?? What does this mean??
This means that there is voltage leakage. Moisture can cause this to happen. Alternatively it could be an issue with the receptacle connects or the ground wire in the system.
Just tell me is it safe to put a screwdriver in the round hole or not
It is not safe to put any tool into the outlet and don't assume that the neutral or ground wires are ever safe. There are cases where the neutral or ground wires are not wired correctly and can still electrocute someone. Best to be careful in all scenarios.
Thank you
You're welcome!!
The last test you conducted was Neutral and Ground. I have found other resources that connect the black probe to the ground and the red probe to the Neutral. Does particular probe placement matter between Neutral and Ground? Great video, hard to find people that teach properly. Even the book I'm reading says, "test ground to ground" which I imagine is typo. Nobody has content to help me clarify besides this video. Thank you!
Thanks for watching. When testing between neutral and ground, it is more likely for neutral to be accidentally wired as the hot wire. Technically speaking for maximum safety it would make sense to use the red probe to test the neutral and the black probe to test the ground.
In most cases testing between neutral and ground will not have any voltage. Switching around the probes won't affect the reading it just changes which probe might be energized in some models of multimeters.
For additional safety you can always wear rubberized gloves and only hold the multimeter probes in one hand placing the probes in one by one.
Long live the Lizard🦎🤴🏻King !!! Such an amazing & awesome poet ! The poor 27 club 😔fame seekers. It hurts my heart. But my heart is stronger than their magic. 😉
Thanks for watching.
Tried following these instructions to test an outlet and blew up my multimeter! Not sure where I went wrong.
Hi Katherine, thank you for watching. Its possible that the multimeter leads were not connect to the right spot on the multimeter and you likely blew the internal fuse. In a different video we covered how to setup a multimeter in a little bit more detail. Its worth watching to see if that was the case. ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
Thanks for teaching me.
You're welcome!
well done
Thank you!
Why would connecting the red probe to live increase the chance of a shock, when you've got an alternating voltage coming out of the plugs, its not like the polarity matters. That rule surely must be the same the other way around.
Thanks for watching. That part of the video was talking about having 1 probe inserted into the hot terminal, the other probe will be energized. When inserting into the neutral (it is not hot) so the other probe would not be energized in this case.
Why did it arc when I did exactly what you did 😳
Thanks for watching. Is your multimeter auto-ranging? If it has multiple VAC settings then a improper range can create issues. An arc could also indicate that there was an internal issue with the multimeter itself. As well check that the multimeter leads were set up correctly: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
J aimerais l avoir en cranté merci.
Thanks for watching.
what if your voltage is higher
Thanks for watching. A 10% variation is acceptable. Any more should be inspected by a electrician.
I don’t wanna carry a multimeter with me but I’m going on a multiple country trip that’s going to take 6 to 12 months to complete with no certain itinerary. I’ll be hitting countries like Vietnam Cambodia, Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia. Is there a lightweight, small tester other than a multimeter that I can probe a plug or plug something into the plug. Especially for the Philippines I’ve heard that they have regular American standard plugs three prong And it could be running something like 240 maybe. Anyway, the wiring in the Philippines sounds very dangerous. Amongst other places I’m sure.
I’m not real familiar with testers, but there’s got to be something I can throw in my bag that’s not too heavy just a test before I plug in my phone and fry it or plug in my rechargeable speaker and fry it .
Thanks for watching. There are receptacle testers but most of them are configured specifically for one region, voltage and type of plug: www.amresupply.com/part/GFI-3501-GFI-RECEPTACLE-TESTR
There might be universal testers out there that come with adapters and different ranges. Not sure though.
A tester like this is not that much smaller than a small multimeter so you wouldn't be saving that much weight overall.
wait a minute, isn't the black supposed to go into the hot wire and the red goes into neutral ? because you know, black is always hot and red or white is neutral. ????
Thanks for watching. We made a video (which shares some shots from this) that explains how to setup a multimeter. This is based on the multimeter that we're using and it's shown here: ruclips.net/video/r_migcta_Is/видео.html
Mine reads 127 -128 is that bad
Thanks for watching. A normal 120 volt outlet will have a variance of about +/- 5%. In your case 128 is getting to be a little bit on the high side, but keep in mind that the accuracy of your multimeter. If you're using an analog one it could be out by a couple volts.
Now if only one outlet is reading that high then it could be an issue with the wiring or the circuit breaker.
I’m reading a 125 what that mean
Thanks for watching. If the multimeter reads 125 volts then thats within the normal acceptable variance. The voltage in a homes outlet is not exactly 120V and can range from 110 up to 125 or so.
Ilike these
Thank you!
Wow, turns out my entire apartment is not grounded.
Thanks for watching. Is this an older apartment, perhaps build before the 1960s?
It isn't quite as simple trying to stick the multimeter probes into a TR Tamper Resistant receptacle. You might need to use a "cheater plug."
Thanks for watching. You are right that Tamper Resistance receptacles can make it difficult to do the test.
just did this to test a power conditioner and popped it. the wires of my multimeter blew out.
Thanks for watching. The multimeter does have an internal fuse, which can be accessed from the back plate. If the fuse is blown the replacing the fuse will get your multimeter working again.
Easy ...............Graciasssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
You're welcome JC, we're glad you found the video helpful!
No, thank you! for the lesson.
You're welcome Brad!!