just did my front cover gasket and replaced the water pump and whatnot, trying to get the lpop gears on the crank and it won’t go in at all, everything is lined up but it just will not go in and i know you have to be gentle with it
Try to test fit each piece individually to make sure the gear will go on the crank then the outer half to see if it slides in. Can be a pain cause it's a perfect fit. It's a solid piece of metal, so if it needs a tape from a rubber mallet, won't hurt.
Hey, thanks for the video! I just replaced my lpop because it wasn't filling oil into the filter housing... My pump was damaged and the housing has 2 channels grooved into them, i replaced only the gear and lpop cover but now I can get it to prime! I just don't know if its because i only coated the gear in a little oil during installation or if those grooves are honestly enough to cause it not to work?? Ive been stranded in Albuquerque behind a business with my truck and 5th wheel, surrounded by homeless ppl living in the dumpsters... With wind rain and cold... i've dropped the oil pan to confirm a good suction tube (living hell), then replaced the lpop (found that damage on the old one)... Really thought this would do the trick but i crank and still get no base oil... I don't get panic attacks, but i literally had my first when this didn't fix the issue....(Hyperventilating and couldn't physically speak, no joke...) Im 6.5 hours away from my intended destination (Peoria az), im mentally and physically broken down... Logically replacing the front cover to eliminate those gooves is my next step... But im clingy to the hope that maybe its just a prime issue and those groove, although not ideal, would still at least function enough to get me running. Any thoughts? (Im nervous af, and lost nearly all my confidence.)
After everything is together, with the oil filter cap and oil filter out it should only take a few seconds, maybe 30 secs to get the oil to start filling the reservoir. Your best option is find a local diesel shop and get the truck towed there since you don't have additional shop tools and large battery charger to keep the batteries charged, you'll eventually kill the batteries trying to crank the truck over. Also while cranking you could pull the I believe grey ficm relay or use the starter jumper wire so the injectors are not firing while trying to start the truck.
I do have a lot of the essential tools for this truck. I've accumulated the right configuration over the past 8 years of traveling... Yes, where I'm lacking is the battery power... and being frozen mentally and stressed through the roof. Over the years I've done my fair share of parking lot miracles (mainly injectors, seals, exhaust leaks, boost leaks, hpop system...) I just keep hoping that if I go out and try and lift the rear of the truck and or find a way to pime the pump that I could get it started.... I'm confused on if there's a specific hole in the oil filter housing that I could put some oil down that would reach the loop, or is there a way to put a hose somewhere to suck oil up through the loop...
@@jmeister87 There is a drain back valve in the housing, however it drains back to the pan far as I know. Have you posted in some of the 6.0 facebook groups?
@@crazypeople4x4I just disconnected the 5th wheel and chest pressed, single leg pressed the truck away from the trailer... Then I jacked the rear end way off the ground (it fell once, but maybe it's a sign to take the easy way out..jk kinda) So I figured this would give the best chance of getting oil to the loop, I held the relief valve down but even without that it should show some signs of filling... However mine did not, I got the truck charging via solar and car, so I was able to do some pretty good sessions of cranking (with the starter wire), then I took the oil filter pipe off and put oil in there while cranking, nothing changed... So then I removed the (new) low pressure regulator to see if there was any signs of oil building up in there, there wasn't anything leaking out, so I cranked with that out, nothing out of that hole either... I have been in contact with a real knowledgeable Ford tech, I talked to him prior to removing my oil pan, new lpop and latest testing. I'm going to call him in a minute to see what he thinks now... I think I will be replace the front cover if it's just that there damage enough to cause this still... Let the nightmare continue I guess...
I’m going through a similar situation My Low Pressure Oil Pump has tiny dots not like lifter needles just bumps. The front cover has some light scuff marks but not horrible Everyone is saying to replace the front cover but I’m a bit hesitant
just did my front cover gasket and replaced the water pump and whatnot, trying to get the lpop gears on the crank and it won’t go in at all, everything is lined up but it just will not go in and i know you have to be gentle with it
Try to test fit each piece individually to make sure the gear will go on the crank then the outer half to see if it slides in. Can be a pain cause it's a perfect fit. It's a solid piece of metal, so if it needs a tape from a rubber mallet, won't hurt.
Hey, thanks for the video! I just replaced my lpop because it wasn't filling oil into the filter housing...
My pump was damaged and the housing has 2 channels grooved into them, i replaced only the gear and lpop cover but now I can get it to prime!
I just don't know if its because i only coated the gear in a little oil during installation or if those grooves are honestly enough to cause it not to work??
Ive been stranded in Albuquerque behind a business with my truck and 5th wheel, surrounded by homeless ppl living in the dumpsters... With wind rain and cold... i've dropped the oil pan to confirm a good suction tube (living hell), then replaced the lpop (found that damage on the old one)... Really thought this would do the trick but i crank and still get no base oil...
I don't get panic attacks, but i literally had my first when this didn't fix the issue....(Hyperventilating and couldn't physically speak, no joke...)
Im 6.5 hours away from my intended destination (Peoria az), im mentally and physically broken down...
Logically replacing the front cover to eliminate those gooves is my next step... But im clingy to the hope that maybe its just a prime issue and those groove, although not ideal, would still at least function enough to get me running.
Any thoughts?
(Im nervous af, and lost nearly all my confidence.)
After everything is together, with the oil filter cap and oil filter out it should only take a few seconds, maybe 30 secs to get the oil to start filling the reservoir.
Your best option is find a local diesel shop and get the truck towed there since you don't have additional shop tools and large battery charger to keep the batteries charged, you'll eventually kill the batteries trying to crank the truck over.
Also while cranking you could pull the I believe grey ficm relay or use the starter jumper wire so the injectors are not firing while trying to start the truck.
I do have a lot of the essential tools for this truck. I've accumulated the right configuration over the past 8 years of traveling... Yes, where I'm lacking is the battery power... and being frozen mentally and stressed through the roof.
Over the years I've done my fair share of parking lot miracles (mainly injectors, seals, exhaust leaks, boost leaks, hpop system...)
I just keep hoping that if I go out and try and lift the rear of the truck and or find a way to pime the pump that I could get it started.... I'm confused on if there's a specific hole in the oil filter housing that I could put some oil down that would reach the loop, or is there a way to put a hose somewhere to suck oil up through the loop...
@@jmeister87 There is a drain back valve in the housing, however it drains back to the pan far as I know. Have you posted in some of the 6.0 facebook groups?
@@crazypeople4x4I just disconnected the 5th wheel and chest pressed, single leg pressed the truck away from the trailer... Then I jacked the rear end way off the ground (it fell once, but maybe it's a sign to take the easy way out..jk kinda)
So I figured this would give the best chance of getting oil to the loop, I held the relief valve down but even without that it should show some signs of filling... However mine did not, I got the truck charging via solar and car, so I was able to do some pretty good sessions of cranking (with the starter wire), then I took the oil filter pipe off and put oil in there while cranking, nothing changed...
So then I removed the (new) low pressure regulator to see if there was any signs of oil building up in there, there wasn't anything leaking out, so I cranked with that out, nothing out of that hole either...
I have been in contact with a real knowledgeable Ford tech, I talked to him prior to removing my oil pan, new lpop and latest testing. I'm going to call him in a minute to see what he thinks now...
I think I will be replace the front cover if it's just that there damage enough to cause this still... Let the nightmare continue I guess...
did you ever figure it out or you still in that parking lot charging the batteries
Hi there
Did your front cover have damage ?
Or was the damage limited to the low pressure pump gears?
I mean it wasn't shiny and perfect, but didn't look bad enough to need replaced or enough to affect performance of the pump.
I’m going through a similar situation
My Low Pressure Oil Pump has tiny dots not like lifter needles just bumps.
The front cover has some light scuff marks but not horrible
Everyone is saying to replace the front cover but I’m a bit hesitant
Did your front cover have a gouges or light marring ?
I’m debating on replacing my front cover or just roll like you with just the LPoP first ?
@@jasonab6722if it looks ok. I'd send it. It's a lot of work to replace.
👏😉
That didn't look like a blue spring it looked like a green spring
The blue spring is referred to with the fuel bowl housing to maintain better fuel pressure. This was green spring was part of the kit I got.