I'm not going to lie. I've watched the majority of your model kit vids within the last few days. You're definitely worthy of major views. And my main channels to watch r ppl like G studio, EA Gunpla & whatnot. Keep it up bro seriously. I can see you becoming a bigger channel in the Model Kit scene
Bought this kit today, my first gunpla. It's a nice little piece on its own but this process took it from a nice toy to a gorgeous statue. I'm very interested in trying my hand at it, a little nervous maybe, but I'm going to give this a go.
@@nottoscale6529 Sorry just asking for a few tips. do you have to apply a top coat before doing a dry brush/weathering effect? or can it be done without?
You took an entry grade and made him an ART GRADE. Lovely work, I would love to learn those skills I have a lot of questions about it. For example, 1. "Tamiya Thinner can break plastic", does it breaks every plastic? I've hear that it destroys ABS plastic but what about PS plastic? The Top Coating can protect the pieces? 2. In Step 1. Is it possible to use acrylics + thinner instead of Tamiya paints? I'm asking because I can't get Tamiya ones here in my country, but acrylic paints are everywhere. 3. "Tamiya wheatering master" are that special materials... or are they rebranded wives make up? 4. When you finish, do you need to use another top coat? How can I prevent the paint from peeling when touched?
Thank you for watching.🙂 I would like to answer your questions as follows. 1. Thinner does not destroy every piece of plastic. But I can't control it. The coating can protect, but not 100%. 2. You can use other brands of acrylic paint and enamel. You can use lighter fluid instead of thinner. 3. You can use powder paint instead. 4. You don't need to coat the surface. But you shouldn't touch it often.🙂
Also, you claimed that X20 thinner can break plastic. How do u combat that than? Do u just take apart the whole thing and clean the Brown Weathering, or do u just use tiny amounts at a time?
@@nottoscale6529 thank you very much! I'm excited to try weathering, I'm just waiting for the paints I ordered to arrive. Thank you for the inspiration, looking forward to your future builds!
I'm not going to lie. I've watched the majority of your model kit vids within the last few days. You're definitely worthy of major views. And my main channels to watch r ppl like G studio, EA Gunpla & whatnot. Keep it up bro seriously. I can see you becoming a bigger channel in the Model Kit scene
Thank you 😃
Bought this kit today, my first gunpla. It's a nice little piece on its own but this process took it from a nice toy to a gorgeous statue. I'm very interested in trying my hand at it, a little nervous maybe, but I'm going to give this a go.
Excellent results! I like the way you improved this entry grade in such a simple yet effective way!
Thanks 😊
Hi, really cool guide!
can you please tell how much time should pass between applying and removing enamel?
Wow it looks amazing 👏
thank you 😀
Amazing.
Very nice!
Thanks 😊
damn.. as always.. excellent work. 🔥😊🥰. i am glad i subscribe to your channel.
thank you ☺
@@nottoscale6529 Sorry just asking for a few tips. do you have to apply a top coat before doing a dry brush/weathering effect? or can it be done without?
@@michaelfabros5932 coating first step before weathering effect. But you can skip this step if you don't have topcoat.🙂
You took an entry grade and made him an ART GRADE. Lovely work, I would love to learn those skills
I have a lot of questions about it. For example,
1. "Tamiya Thinner can break plastic", does it breaks every plastic? I've hear that it destroys ABS plastic but what about PS plastic? The Top Coating can protect the pieces?
2. In Step 1. Is it possible to use acrylics + thinner instead of Tamiya paints? I'm asking because I can't get Tamiya ones here in my country, but acrylic paints are everywhere.
3. "Tamiya wheatering master" are that special materials... or are they rebranded wives make up?
4. When you finish, do you need to use another top coat? How can I prevent the paint from peeling when touched?
Thank you for watching.🙂
I would like to answer your questions as follows.
1. Thinner does not destroy every piece of plastic. But I can't control it. The coating can protect, but not 100%.
2. You can use other brands of acrylic paint and enamel. You can use lighter fluid instead of thinner.
3. You can use powder paint instead.
4. You don't need to coat the surface. But you shouldn't touch it often.🙂
Is it safe to use enamel-based paints, thinners and washes? I heard Bandai plastic does not react well to these.
very like it
am i need to top coat again after finish al these step? or just once in the beginning before doing this? I want to do this with my PG Strike gat x105
First time makes everything have a surface to stick to instead of smooth plastic and do it again when you finish to protect your work. 🙌
What top coat should i spray over once i finish? (i like changing poses alot)
Boss, how about the ratio between thinner and enamel paint?
Also, you claimed that X20 thinner can break plastic. How do u combat that than? Do u just take apart the whole thing and clean the Brown Weathering, or do u just use tiny amounts at a time?
I repair it if possible. Most have problems with connection points.
Great work! How are you getting that metallic green?
It's sticker
Cool! Love your content dude, more people need to use mold color builds.
What acrylic paint color did you use for dry brushing?
general acrylic paint color
@@nottoscale6529 thank you very much! I'm excited to try weathering, I'm just waiting for the paints I ordered to arrive. Thank you for the inspiration, looking forward to your future builds!