The ONLY Lock Miter Bit for Beams - This Bit is a Game Changer
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Lock miter bits can be finicky but they have their place in production trim applications. The freeborn bit is the best I have found for lock mitering large material like beams. In this video I walk you through the ins and outs of lock miter bits and how to use them effectively for production trim work.
Insider Carpentry Amazon Tool Lists/Storefront - www.amazon.com...
FREEBORN - PC-28-020 - CARBIDE LOCK MITER SET Shaper Cutter - geni.us/YPkc (Amazon)
Whiteside Lock Miter Bit - geni.us/mwYL7QJ (Amazon)
Jessum Table Saw Stock Guides Amazon - geni.us/K901Xo (Amazon)
Freud Dial a Width Dado Set - geni.us/nufR (Amazon)
Heavy Duty Packing Tape - geni.us/Zx6NX5a (Amazon)
Packing Tape Gun geni.us/V4KntcN (Amazon)
Sawstop 5hp Table Saw - geni.us/bj4GkoN on Amazon (commissions earned)
Powermatic 4 Roller Power Feeder 1hp - geni.us/5xMt8yJ on Amazon (commissions earned)
All of your work is very impressive and you have an incredible amount of knowledge for such a young guy. I have 35 years experience in the trade and I’ll admit I wasn’t at the same level at your age. Keep the videos coming, there’s nothing else like them out there. Thanks
I have over 20 years in finish carpentry. I started in a cabinet shop at 19 years old. Part of me is sad he shares our skills with everyone. I spent years collecting these little bits of experience from old guys, not from you tube. Another part of me is patiently awaiting another video in hopes i can better myself and hone my own skills. We are all trying to find a better faster way to do what has been done for years. Its a trade we do to make money. Until now mostly hacks on you tube. This guy is as good or better than most pros. I hope he gets compensation for divulging the trade secrets. He deserves credit where credit is due.
Not everyone has access to these old skilled guys. Including me. I work with guys who have been doing it for 27 years that aren't nearly as skilled or knowledgeable as this man. Until I found this channel I was taking their hackery as a sort of dogmatic industry standard. I am so grateful for these videos. I plan on supporting him financially when I can. He's doing our entire industry a favour by raising the bar and exposing shoddy workmanship simply by showing us the proper way of doing things
I have forty plus years doing finish carpentry and cabinetry....
I share anything with anybody, and have for years. The demand for skilled tradesmen far exceeds the availability. I am sad at the lack of younger people willing to put forth the effort to learn a complex trade such as finish work, when the money is great and the work is extremely satisfying.
These videos have the best content by far of any I've seen.
It is not so much passing on the knowledge as it is whether or not you are capable of using it. If we do not keep the trades going sooner or later that knowledge dies and we end up with hacks. Not to pass on knowledge is like reinventing the wheel over and over.
I really like the idea of the workpiece being cut with the resulting profile bevel facing up. This means the board thickness is not too critical. For regular lockmiter setups on router tables and most shapers, you have to make sure your boards have precise width and thickness. Thanks for sharing
Exactly! It’s a huge advantage.
Hi 👋, I am new to your work shop, I have both, but the one I used the most is spindle moulder / shaper , made by LEITZ 125130 mitre jointer cutter block. With long in feed and out feed tables, 10Hp Felder , And to set it up you do both edges of face and back boards lying down on the table and the sides you stand up on the back fence you obviously rotate the power feed to go against the fence driving it downwards into the table bed, 28m Thickness of the material maximum, Retired English gentleman specialist joiner cabinet maker ,now in France.
PHIL FROM THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOULIN
Thanks for sharing your PRO tips and tricks. Straightforward and to the point style is appreciated.
One of the things that people can do to reduce strain on a router using a lock miter bit is to cut a miter that runs about an 1/8" shy of your final cut. Leaving the bit to hog off that much stock will be a strain on just about any router. But pairing it down to where you're only removing an 1/8" or so will create not only less strain on the motor, but also produce a cleaner final cut.
I did a bunch of 16' beams with the lock miter bit on a router. Exactly the problems you mentioned. Setup took a while. And I had to built a flat outfeed table when running it vertically. That shaper makes it look like a breeze in comparison.
Did you use a router table?
Who the hell gives this a thumbs down?! 😠 Brother, great video. Really enjoyed!
Great learnings!
I tried doing that on a router table once, it was a very bad experience, great video and advice thank you.👍
Very informative. I have never been around a shaper table. But sure can see the benefits of owning one if you have the work to support owning one. Great video.
Keep these videos coming. I never stop learning new things from you.
Love the lock miter especially for building columns out of azek use pvc glue and just snap it together and it’s welded in... haven’t used the one for the shaper unfortunately mine is down right now but I’ll definitely add that to the tool list thank you and as always great job!!
WOW!!! Great information. Thank you. I have that Infinity bit and ran into the problem you said you would with big pieces... I am buying the shaper bit asap...
This is so cool! i'm glad youtube suggested this video! I didn't know about your channel but i'm going to follow you from now on!
Been dealing with the same thing. Ended up running my miter locks before gluing up the wide boards (which is also a pain because I had to use blocks with the miter lock profile cut on them to clamp the glue up)- it worked in preventing me from having to send a 13 inch board through vertically but was really not ideal.
Great work man, keep it up. Just a tip on the video next time slow it down please when you run your test piece or first full board through the shaper so we can see that please and thanks!
OMG, I can't believe we didn't get to hear and see the big machine after all that build up!
Nice shaper setup; love that power feeder.
Nice clamps!
When using knotty material, apply painter's tape over the knots. (Obviously only necessary on the lock in miter edge)
Thanks for the vid !
You'r a pro !! Got yourself a new sub
My problem with faux box beams that are stained is the grain orientation. A real beam will have end grain and edge grain. I suppose most people who want these would not ever notice or care though.
🇬🇧What you call a shaper in America, we in Britain call it a spindle moulder.
Way useful information. Totally familiar with the grief of trying to run the 1x vertical and the fragile, sharp edge. Appreciate you sharing. Check out Wegoma feeders (sold through Martin USA, the big German woodworking machinery company). Its a feeder that can rotate horizontally in mere seconds.... a game changer vs. conventional feeders.
If you angle your power feed slightly toward the fence you don't need feather boards to keep it against the fence.
It is. 👍 the blocks are just a little extra insurance. It still will wander on me for some reason occasionally.
Thanks for sharing.
You run fast in slow mode 🤩🤣.
I am struggling to get this lock mitre dialed in…. Any advice you can share please?
Hello, the sharp corner that you are talking about should not be there. This is very fragile when sliding over the machine table and fence. It is better to provide a small flat surface of approximately 0.3 mm that you can easily sand away after assembly. Best regards.
That makes sense. I'd like to get a lock miter bit for my shaper and try that also.
Question about the lock miter: Is it really better then just a 45* glued together? I've done all sorts of assemblies using 45 miters. Sometimes I've pinned them with nails, sometimes not. I've only used a lock miter once, and it just didn't seem worth it. You still need to fiddle around with it to get the joint perfect, and you've got all that extra machine work to boot. People say they're stronger then just a straight cut miter, but I've tried taking apart assemblies that had been properly glued, and most of the time the glue joints have stuck together very strongly for me...I'm just not totally sold on the lock miter system. Its cool though...
The lock miter is more of a production tool. It shines on large quantities. Also this bit is not you’re typical lock miter. It’s a completely different design which makes it great for large and long material like beams.
I’d be interested in seeing a comparison of speed and quality using a standard miter with dominos. Seems like it might be just as quick or quicker for small projects especially if you don’t have room for a shaper.
Any suggestion on the type of wood to use for the beam?
In the video you say you will show the set up of your out feed fence but then don’t. Do you have better info on that portion. Tried running my freeborn lock miter but not getting good results. Thanks
We need some background info about how you got your experience.
How would you do a cap for those post beams with no seams?
I picked up the big orange freeborn shaper bit...
I machine all the parts and I’m a little bit concerned at how thin the face of the wood is because the dado must be so deep to accept that tongue.
I think I might have our sharpening guy grind down that slot cutter to, allow more than an eighth of an inch of material on the face side.
I don't like how thin it is either. That's a great idea about having it ground down. I may look into that also for my own cutter.
@@InsiderCarpentry Also on the wish list, I have the same shaper and Powermatic power feeder that you have to...I really wish there was a slower setting...I fed it through holding it away from the fence a little bit to hog out the first pass or two but the “turtle” speed it still goes pretty fast for a final cut like that
My mistake I just looked at this cutter with sharpening guy and I was thinking about it backwards ...grinding off of the quarter inch slotting cutter would make the problem worse you actually have to see if you can find a slotting cutter that’s like 4 1/8 rather than the 4 inch that it comes with
@@yettielusive3370 one could just rip an 1/8” off the 1/4” tongue, although it would be adding a third step. It doesn’t look like @InsiderCarpentry is using the lock miter much anymore.
Can the cutter be used on 1/2 stock?
3/4” minimum with the freeborn bit.
By saying shaper do you mean spindle moulder
Your Bessey Clamp Game is strong.
I'm old.... most of my Besseys say "Made in West Germany".... they still serve me well.
Just found your channel so I have a lot of content to catch up on. Great stuff. What city, state are you in?
Indiana
@@InsiderCarpentry you represent your home state really well my brother. Love what your doing. Great respect.
if you don't have the money for a Powermatic shaper, you could always take the router out of the base and instead move the router along the board. You'd have to have some nice jig set up to hold the board on edge and everything, but I think it would be possible and practical.
Justin Giglio Not much of a chance of that working with a lock miter. In the vertical orientation you’d be trying to balance that giant bit and router on a 3/4” wide edge. Not gonna happen. Running flat maybe. But vertically no way.
that's why I mentioned a jig. like a flat base that sits on one side of the upright board. Or you could get one of those special plates that allows you to use your router at 90 degree angles.
I get your point, but i'd rather have the dangerous moving bit lock down stable, than jumping around in my hand
Of course, IMO.😎
I did use the router and a jig to shape the corners on 1"x6" 20 ft long cider boards. The jig did a great work. i recommend to do it whit the router with no table .Just clamp the board to a table and work along the side.
Where I can get that cutter?how is it call?is it new?can't find it on internet
Link is in video notes.
I only have a routwr table can this be gone still.
What HP on shaper you got? 5? 7?
5 HP
Really you didn't show a close up of how the joint fits ? Realy?
Still got that old router table collecting dust?
Mostly. I do get it out and put it to use occasionally.
Holy monotone flatman
All of the incredible information he shares on his channel and you want to pick on the tone of his voice?
Don't ridicule people, thats low class. The guy is a wealth of knowledge, who cares what he sounds like.
Excess emotion when speaking gets a little bit tiresome