Good vid but you don't explain how and where you put the 1K resistor at the end which is the most important bit to me. Did you just unplug the plug to the temp sensor and bridge the plug with this resistor? In other words its no longer plugged into the sensor in the thermostat housing? Thank you.
Hey mate, thanks for the useful info. Where exactly do you place the resistor for the temporary fix? And does it have to be a 1k resistor (I think I only have a 2.4k handy)? Thanks!
Hey dan, my car ac doesn't turn on either. I took to mechanic and he checked it, said he doesn't know what's the problem. but said to get ac valve pressure sensor from manufacturer first so he can replace it, and said if it didn't work, then their might be something wrong with computer program, or else the compressor. At the moment the compressor doesn't turn on. Can you please provide some more details regarding what you did and where have you put that connector? So I can try it aswell, because i live in melbourne aswell and it's getting warmer and warmer.
Hey! There's a part 3 video coming soon, I ended up replacing the thermostat housing after all. Do you engine fans ever run for a short while after switching off the ignition? If so, there's a pretty good chance it will be the thermostat housing. If you didn't take your car to a Peugeot specialist, they probably haven't got a scan tool which will diagnose this specific issue. If you read 0.8 - 1V on that sensor the ac system is charged and that won't be the issue. You could try the resistor trick to test whether it is the thermostat housing, but the connector is buried pretty deep under the intake pipework and requires a bit of dismantling to get to. Good luck!!
@@Justfixitmate No the fan turns off. Heater is working, but ac is not. I will try to take it to Peugeot specialist and hopefully they can figure out what the problem is. Thanks
I took my car to a mechanic, who replaced Pressure Switch, but the problem still exists. I used OBD code reader, and found there two Codes (P0597 Thermostate Heater Control Circuit/ open, and P0658 Actuator Supply Voltage "A" Circuite low). I cleared the code, P0658 disappeared, but P0597 is still there. I called few mechanics and they said they can't fix it. I need to find someone who can. If you know anything about this code, please advise. The other mechanic said it might just need replacing thermostatic wiring loom, but he didn't know where it and said it might be under the dash.
@@onemoment7368 Watch my part 3 video. Sounds like you need to replace your thermostat housing. P0597 will prevent your AC switching on. Although possible, I highly doubt it would be a problem with the loom. Easiest way to be sure is to check the resistance on the thermostat housing, if faulty you'll read open circuit. To prove the AC system, ECU and loom are all working correctly you could try placing a 1K resistor across the control circuit connector after disconnecting it from the thermostat housing, as suggested in this video.
danTubez hi Dan thanks for doing these videos mate, I’ve got the same issue in my 3008, (I’ve got gas in the system) I’ll take a look at the thermostat housing, I’ve changed the same housing before in my 207 and I found it easy, the hard part was finding and fitting the rear plastic pipe..I’m in Wollongong so I’m baking in the car...cheers
I'm currently working on my wifes Peugeot 307sw with only A/C warm air. My vehicle can control the A/C compressor but fails to turn on the main condenser fan. I replaced a smartsense relay which is close to the fan, but no joy. I originally had low pressure and replaced the condenser and charged the system with a low amount of gas. The ECU is saying something about fan coherence intermittent fault. Fan runs okay when engine gets to temp 90+ degree and if I supply it with external 12v directly to the fan. So now I am scratching my head as I have trace the wires from both smartsense relay and the A/C pressure switch and wiring all seems in tact. For the record the two sensors on the thermostat housing. Which one does what? I'm wondering if one of them is not working on my car. Cheers.
307? or 308? My old 307SW had a very simple AC system. There is a fan relay control module behind the grill near the fans, these can occasionally fail since they're exposed to the elements and could explain the coherence fault you're experiencing... Perhaps start there.
@@Justfixitmate 307SW. Yes I think that is the smartsense relay located near the fan which I replaced. I originally had extremely low A/C pressure. The radiator also looking old and rusted and limescales with a slow leak. So I replaced both the Condenser and the Radiator. I got as much refrigament in as I could from a half empty bottle my brother used for his car which showed on the low side of green and enabled the compressor, but then the fan didn't work( does work when engine reached 95 degrees). Also I supplied 12v directly to the fan and it works. Checked all the wiring to the and from the ECU to pressure switch and fan relay. All okay. Terminals all okay. I only get .8V on the pressure switch signal wire though, but if the compressor runs I guess it should also enable the main condenser fan. So I then replaced the relay with another one. Now I am not sure what to do next. I keep trying and will get it properly gassed.
@@Justfixitmate I'll try to check them out. I had my car regassed yesterday. It seem improved, but maybe not working fully. I am going to check the pressure sensor signal wire voltage to see the difference and also see fan behaviour. I had thought of the matrix in the car. Whilst gas was low I didn't get any noticable effects of temp on the pipes. Again I'll check this and see what happens. I'll report back my findings soon. Thanks for help.
So a update. After having a regass the fan started to work. I have checked the voltage from pressure sensor earth to pressure sensor signal. Before the regass this voltage was approx 0.8V and a A/C pressure guage read as on the low side of green. The A/C compressor clutch was engaging at this voltage, but the A/C fan wasn't operating. After regass the pressure switch signal voltage raised to 2V. The compressor clutch engaged and the fan a few seconds later. The aircon pipes as suggested have now been checked again and while fault was present there was no change in temperature at these pipes. Now one of the aircon pipes gets icy cold. So it would seem it was just low aircon pressure which was preventing the fan from operating. Thanks for your help.
@@Justfixitmate Hi, I have tried your resistor solution and it does fix my problem with the compressor not engaging and now works normally. Could you expand on why you wouldn’t recommend a resister as a long term solution. I was thinking of adding some connectors and putting a resistor in an electronics project box for full protection. Also you mention a 1k ohms resistor but what wattage would you recommend, I used 1 watts. Do you also know the amps for the wires that go into the connectors that go into the thermostat? as I’d have to extend. Thanks.
@@JB-ni4qn Hey there, using the resistor is only really useful to diagnose a faulty thermostat housing - it's not a long term solution. If the thermostat housing is faulty, your engine temperature wont be regulated as the manufacturer intended. I assume there's a good reason for the ECU to disable the compressor if there's a fault with the cooling system. Sounds like it's time to replace the thermostat.
Good vid but you don't explain how and where you put the 1K resistor at the end which is the most important bit to me. Did you just unplug the plug to the temp sensor and bridge the plug with this resistor? In other words its no longer plugged into the sensor in the thermostat housing? Thank you.
Could you please show where to place resistor for testing/temp fix please
Hey mate, thanks for the useful info. Where exactly do you place the resistor for the temporary fix? And does it have to be a 1k resistor (I think I only have a 2.4k handy)? Thanks!
Brilliant 👍👏
Hey Dan, which obd2 tool helped u diagnose the thermostat error?
Hey dan, my car ac doesn't turn on either. I took to mechanic and he checked it, said he doesn't know what's the problem. but said to get ac valve pressure sensor from manufacturer first so he can replace it, and said if it didn't work, then their might be something wrong with computer program, or else the compressor. At the moment the compressor doesn't turn on. Can you please provide some more details regarding what you did and where have you put that connector? So I can try it aswell, because i live in melbourne aswell and it's getting warmer and warmer.
Hey! There's a part 3 video coming soon, I ended up replacing the thermostat housing after all. Do you engine fans ever run for a short while after switching off the ignition? If so, there's a pretty good chance it will be the thermostat housing. If you didn't take your car to a Peugeot specialist, they probably haven't got a scan tool which will diagnose this specific issue. If you read 0.8 - 1V on that sensor the ac system is charged and that won't be the issue. You could try the resistor trick to test whether it is the thermostat housing, but the connector is buried pretty deep under the intake pipework and requires a bit of dismantling to get to. Good luck!!
@@Justfixitmate No the fan turns off. Heater is working, but ac is not. I will try to take it to Peugeot specialist and hopefully they can figure out what the problem is. Thanks
I took my car to a mechanic, who replaced Pressure Switch, but the problem still exists. I used OBD code reader, and found there two Codes (P0597 Thermostate Heater Control Circuit/ open, and P0658 Actuator Supply Voltage "A" Circuite low). I cleared the code, P0658 disappeared, but P0597 is still there. I called few mechanics and they said they can't fix it. I need to find someone who can. If you know anything about this code, please advise. The other mechanic said it might just need replacing thermostatic wiring loom, but he didn't know where it and said it might be under the dash.
@@onemoment7368 Watch my part 3 video. Sounds like you need to replace your thermostat housing. P0597 will prevent your AC switching on. Although possible, I highly doubt it would be a problem with the loom. Easiest way to be sure is to check the resistance on the thermostat housing, if faulty you'll read open circuit. To prove the AC system, ECU and loom are all working correctly you could try placing a 1K resistor across the control circuit connector after disconnecting it from the thermostat housing, as suggested in this video.
danTubez hi Dan thanks for doing these videos mate, I’ve got the same issue in my 3008, (I’ve got gas in the system) I’ll take a look at the thermostat housing, I’ve changed the same housing before in my 207 and I found it easy, the hard part was finding and fitting the rear plastic pipe..I’m in Wollongong so I’m baking in the car...cheers
I'm currently working on my wifes Peugeot 307sw with only A/C warm air. My vehicle can control the A/C compressor but fails to turn on the main condenser fan. I replaced a smartsense relay which is close to the fan, but no joy. I originally had low pressure and replaced the condenser and charged the system with a low amount of gas. The ECU is saying something about fan coherence intermittent fault. Fan runs okay when engine gets to temp 90+ degree and if I supply it with external 12v directly to the fan. So now I am scratching my head as I have trace the wires from both smartsense relay and the A/C pressure switch and wiring all seems in tact. For the record the two sensors on the thermostat housing. Which one does what? I'm wondering if one of them is not working on my car. Cheers.
307? or 308? My old 307SW had a very simple AC system. There is a fan relay control module behind the grill near the fans, these can occasionally fail since they're exposed to the elements and could explain the coherence fault you're experiencing... Perhaps start there.
@@Justfixitmate 307SW. Yes I think that is the smartsense relay located near the fan which I replaced. I originally had extremely low A/C pressure. The radiator also looking old and rusted and limescales with a slow leak. So I replaced both the Condenser and the Radiator. I got as much refrigament in as I could from a half empty bottle my brother used for his car which showed on the low side of green and enabled the compressor, but then the fan didn't work( does work when engine reached 95 degrees). Also I supplied 12v directly to the fan and it works. Checked all the wiring to the and from the ECU to pressure switch and fan relay. All okay. Terminals all okay. I only get .8V on the pressure switch signal wire though, but if the compressor runs I guess it should also enable the main condenser fan. So I then replaced the relay with another one. Now I am not sure what to do next. I keep trying and will get it properly gassed.
@@adrianleighuk Have you checked that your AC lines are getting ice cold? Could be an issue related to your heater matrix.
@@Justfixitmate I'll try to check them out. I had my car regassed yesterday. It seem improved, but maybe not working fully. I am going to check the pressure sensor signal wire voltage to see the difference and also see fan behaviour. I had thought of the matrix in the car. Whilst gas was low I didn't get any noticable effects of temp on the pipes. Again I'll check this and see what happens. I'll report back my findings soon. Thanks for help.
So a update. After having a regass the fan started to work. I have checked the voltage from pressure sensor earth to pressure sensor signal. Before the regass this voltage was approx 0.8V and a A/C pressure guage read as on the low side of green. The A/C compressor clutch was engaging at this voltage, but the A/C fan wasn't operating. After regass the pressure switch signal voltage raised to 2V. The compressor clutch engaged and the fan a few seconds later. The aircon pipes as suggested have now been checked again and while fault was present there was no change in temperature at these pipes. Now one of the aircon pipes gets icy cold. So it would seem it was just low aircon pressure which was preventing the fan from operating. Thanks for your help.
In the connector of what did you put the resistor?
Check out part 3, I wouldn't recommend using the resistor as a long term solution.
@@Justfixitmate Hi, I have tried your resistor solution and it does fix my problem with the compressor not engaging and now works normally. Could you expand on why you wouldn’t recommend a resister as a long term solution. I was thinking of adding some connectors and putting a resistor in an electronics project box for full protection. Also you mention a 1k ohms resistor but what wattage would you recommend, I used 1 watts. Do you also know the amps for the wires that go into the connectors that go into the thermostat? as I’d have to extend. Thanks.
@@JB-ni4qn Hey there, using the resistor is only really useful to diagnose a faulty thermostat housing - it's not a long term solution. If the thermostat housing is faulty, your engine temperature wont be regulated as the manufacturer intended. I assume there's a good reason for the ECU to disable the compressor if there's a fault with the cooling system. Sounds like it's time to replace the thermostat.