The small spacers should be on the inside..... Spacer, flange, buffing pad, flange then nut. This will move the wheel outward some giving more room for parts being buffed.
Yea that makes the most sense to me, I am not sure why the manual has it pictured the other way. I actually just went to harbor freights website just now and they have two manuals available, each shows the spacers in different locations. haha oh well
Yeah I had the same problem with mine and I took and took the die grinder and ground two flats 180° apart from each other and use the 9 sixteenths wrench on the flats work just fine and if you wanna different wheels I would go to empire abrasives and get some wheels very good quality
Eastwood sells higher quality wheels..if your lookinh...if your going to do a lot more buffing ..I'd suggest a large piece of cardboard attached to your wall..or a tarp..thanks for the vid..
5:38 Yeah they're pretty much all the same even some higher end ones what I used to do with the one where I worked that everyone had chewed up with vise grips was I took a piece of thin aluminum sheet metal and used the vise grips to form it around the shaft so when I clamped it down it won't chew up the shaft and then you can remove the nut from the other side and change your wheels
Just got 8” model, actually made by VEVOR, instructions show the spacer mounted inboard between body and behind inner flange: Only the outer flange and retainer nut on the outside😵💫
Yea seems to be some variation, even HF has two sets of instructions saying different things haha. Spacers inboard definitely makes the most sense though.
I'm ok with mine also. It's doing a good job. I do hate the wheels. They throw the lint/string all over. I looked like a sheepdog after using it with the original wheels. Im going to go find better wheels. But if you need one for once in a while use, it's perfect. Just replace the wheels or use it outside!
I had to look at your page to realize a kirby is a vacuum cleaner haha. If the kirby is made of aluminum or another metal that can be polished I would think something like should work. If its small enough to pick up and maneuver around a bench buffer this would probably be great, if its larger or awkward it might be easer to use something where you move the buffing wheel around the part instead. Out of curiosity, is polishing vacuums a common thing?
Vacuum collectors like to polish their Kirby's and royals or any aluminum vacuum cleaners for that matter because we want to restore them and mint condition!
I didn't notice any excessive heat while using it. After I saw your comment, I let it run for about 5 minutes and it wasn't even warm to the touch. Hope that helps!
The small spacers should be on the inside..... Spacer, flange, buffing pad, flange then nut.
This will move the wheel outward some giving more room for parts being buffed.
Yea that makes the most sense to me, I am not sure why the manual has it pictured the other way. I actually just went to harbor freights website just now and they have two manuals available, each shows the spacers in different locations. haha oh well
I'm right , just try it. The spacer in any other location would be doing anything. Try it any way you like and see I'm right
@@goodboyringo9716 Oh, you're 100% right, Im not doubting you. I was just explaining why I did it that way in the video
Yeah I had the same problem with mine and I took and took the die grinder and ground two flats 180° apart from each other and use the 9 sixteenths wrench on the flats work just fine and if you wanna different wheels I would go to empire abrasives and get some wheels very good quality
Thanks for both suggestions!
Eastwood sells higher quality wheels..if your lookinh...if your going to do a lot more buffing ..I'd suggest a large piece of cardboard attached to your wall..or a tarp..thanks for the vid..
Thanks for the tip! I like your idea for the cardboard, as I have been going I've been noticing the wall getting significantly blacker haha.
5:38 Yeah they're pretty much all the same even some higher end ones what I used to do with the one where I worked that everyone had chewed up with vise grips was I took a piece of thin aluminum sheet metal and used the vise grips to form it around the shaft so when I clamped it down it won't chew up the shaft and then you can remove the nut from the other side and change your wheels
That's a interesting solution, I will have to try that one out, thanks!
Picked up a NIB one at a garage sale for $30! Still haven't set it up, but have 3-4 projects backing up...
Nice find!
Thank you,great video❤
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for your honest review
Always! Thanks for watching!
I got one of these, does pretty well but too easily stops if you use too much pressure.
Yea it works for what I need it for, but it is only a 1/2 hp motor
Just got 8” model, actually made by VEVOR, instructions show the spacer mounted inboard between body and behind inner flange: Only the outer flange and retainer nut on the outside😵💫
Yea seems to be some variation, even HF has two sets of instructions saying different things haha. Spacers inboard definitely makes the most sense though.
Good video keep up the great content !
Appreciate it, thanks for watching!
I had the same experience with the supplied wheels. They continued to throw material as long as I could stand it. Replace!!!!
Use a wrench on the other sides nut to hold the shaft from spinning
One side is reverser threaded so this wouldn't work. Although it might work if you double nut the other side
Put two jam nuts on the back side of shaft and spacer or even if you have to shorten the spacer.
True, that's always an option. Thanks! I haven't actually had the issue yet, it was just an observation I felt was worth mentioning.
Can you make these into a variable speed?
Try a small cordless impact and socket to remove the nuts.
True, thanks for the idea! I haven't really had any issues with it yet, but it was just something I saw could be a potential issue.
can you put a wire wheel on one side?
You probably could, its just a threaded rod and a nut, but I haven't tried that myself
It's been a while, have you tried/found better wheels?
Not yet, I have been eyeing a few options but I haven't done too much polishing recently.
I'm ok with mine also. It's doing a good job. I do hate the wheels. They throw the lint/string all over. I looked like a sheepdog after using it with the original wheels. Im going to go find better wheels. But if you need one for once in a while use, it's perfect. Just replace the wheels or use it outside!
Yea, I still haven't replaced mine yet, but its on the list. Let me know if you find some good ones!
what is the base dimensions Thanks ron
Do you think this can polish a kirby?
I had to look at your page to realize a kirby is a vacuum cleaner haha. If the kirby is made of aluminum or another metal that can be polished I would think something like should work. If its small enough to pick up and maneuver around a bench buffer this would probably be great, if its larger or awkward it might be easer to use something where you move the buffing wheel around the part instead. Out of curiosity, is polishing vacuums a common thing?
Yes ,thanks for the reply.
Vacuum collectors like to polish their Kirby's and royals or any aluminum vacuum cleaners for that matter because we want to restore them and mint condition!
My favorite part is replacing the pads because the pads they have right next to it don't fit.
I have seen reviews saying the motor gets very hot under load. What's your experience?
I didn't notice any excessive heat while using it. After I saw your comment, I let it run for about 5 minutes and it wasn't even warm to the touch. Hope that helps!