How to replace bed springs on cr10s | install silicone bed mounts on ender 3 & cr10 plus + bed level
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- Опубликовано: 14 июл 2024
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Below is a link for the bed mounts on Amazon, happy printing!
To get these bed mounts click the link below
Silicone bed mounts
amzn.to/3xhOwLX 
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watched to confirm i did mine right, nicely put together video & definately be watching you in the future! best of luck with your machine & your channel.
Let me know how you like it! You do have to do a few bed leveling test to get it just right but when you do you’ll almost never have to level it again! Best of luck on your 3D prints be sure to share you’re builds here!
Thanks for the upload, appreciate it!
Thanks for watching!
I’m so glad I watched this. I changed for the silicone but couldn’t get. Y bed to level. I didn’t even think about heating the bed. I now have a pretty damn level bed and with my bl touch it’s smooth sailing and first layers- at least for the problems caused by leveling 😂
It takes honestly 5-6 prints to get it right on if you don’t have a bl touch. It’s best to do a few different bed level tests or test prints with brim, understand too the silicone will break in after the first week. I’ve got mine locked in and the vibration reduction is crazy!
Hey this worked great
I had to potu 2 washers below each silicon mount, mine arrived a few mm short so my extruder couldn't read the bed so i added 2 wasshers to each side and that made the trick.
I’ve recently heard this happening, thank you for the input always good to share others trials & tribulations, no 2 machines are identical!
You can move the z limit switch easily then you won't need the washers. There are videos on RUclips to show how.
Wish I could have had this video about 7 days ago DW. I probably would have just replaced the broken spring on the Mini I got from Amazon instead of returning it.
I would contact them and see if you can buy it refurbished
@@Darkwingdad I'll give it a shot. Considering they still haven't returned my funds they should give me one sweet deal 🤔
I put silicon mounts on an Ender 5 Plus and I noticed the yellow springs it came with were not as good as the ones I bought for my Ender 3's, they are much thinner metal wire and the springs coils are slimmer also, I much prefer the silicon mounts as they hold level for ages although I am looking for a fixed bed mod but I have not found one as yet but have ordered a new aluminium bed as the price has dropped from my local metal supplier.
I noticed on my ender 5 plus all the spring point are the same height. is it just me or would having one short silicone mount mess with leveling?
daft question sorry man but when you fit the silicone parts, how much do you have to squish them by tightning before you start to level. the reason I ask this for example the yellow springs you should tighten fully and turn back one turn before you start. Ive tried something similar with the silicone but its honestly been a nightmare and will not level.
You want to tighten them to where the knobs aren’t wobbling but than you’ll need to level the bed prior to printing. The bed will sit a little lower with the silicone mounts on
I just have another issue for some reason my printer isn’t homing properly it doesn’t seem calibrated
I put 3d printed mounts on my Ender 2 Pro but the wheels are not lowering or raising the bed, they are just sitting there. I mean,they are on there pretty good but not lowering or raising the bed,and the bed is too high. What do I do?
You have very little play room with those mounts. Also know as solid bedmounts your not going to be able to lower or raise them much. Silicone ones are squishy so you can.
@@Darkwingdad Will the ones in your link work?
@@bkkorner yes they are more abjustable. Best thing to do is get them tight than adjust your z offset
@@DarkwingdadThank you so much!
@@bkkorner anytime!
I am very new to 3D printing. I purchased a used CR10V2. I have added a CR Touch. I got very frustrated leveling the bed. I did hear about changing the springs to silicone spacers. So I just finished doing those. Now I am going to try to do bed level. I am guessing I should do manually before doing anything with the CR Touch?
Correct, in some cases the mounts may be too short but you can add washers below the silicone mounts if needed. Once installed level the bed using a piece of paper & level the bed. I’ve done this on all my machines and bed leveling is no longer a constant chore.
I wonder if this will help my cr10s pro v2? I replaced the springs but still have to re level my bed after every print. It’s driving me crazy!
At first my horizontal gantry rail would sag lower on the left side while the printer was on. But I sorted that out by loosening the right side bracket. Still .3mm higher on the right but workable.
These are beneficial to any printer when replacing the springs. Less movement from the bed, faster printing ability due to firmer bed plate.
@@Darkwingdad perfect. I will order them! Thanks for all the tips. Trying to find one for the cr10s pro v2 appears difficult. Some people say the cr10 max ones fit correctly
@@peebs2424 if they are too small don’t be afraid to use rubber washers. You can get them at lowes, I know on my cr10v2 it was a little too small but the washers made it perfect. You can also print spacers out of petg
@@peebs2424 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2738633 here’s the link for the spacers to print
@@Darkwingdad awesome. Hopefully this solves my issue. Have you ever experienced issues keeping that horizontal gantry rail even on both sides? That right side always wants to sit a little higher. I got it fairly close.
Do you still feel like you didn’t need to print the new part around the cable wire? I bought these off Amazon and even in the item description it says you would need to print the new piece
I don’t see why you would need it, I had zero issues with it the way it is.
@@Darkwingdad awesome thanks
I actually printed the said part and still decided to go with the stock part. The stock is slightly larger than the silicone mount, but that's may bother as the screw will center it perfectly.
The 3d printed part was brushing against the glass bed and I didn't like it. So went with stock part.
I changed mine but now my Z offset is bad, and I cannot lower the nozzle enough to touch a piece of paper. Its the lowest it can be. What should I do now? TIA
What machine?
You’re saying even with the bed raised all the way the nozzle doesn’t touch?
@@Darkwingdad CR10S. I ended up stacking another mirror on top. All's good now.
@@HushNinja you can go into you’re settings and offset the z. Or you can move your z limit switch lower. The only issue with double stacking mirrors is it won’t get as hot as it needs to
@@Darkwingdad yeah its already beyond the carriage's limit to lower the z further. z limit switch was already completely removed as I am using a bltouch. any ideas?
@@HushNinja I would measure the distance you have and reset the z offset to a negative just like when you did the bltouch
How are they holding up? Did you have te level it since you installed the silicone ones?
Fantastic! Without a bltouch you need to print 3 brim prints or bed level tests to get it exact but honestly I am going to get these for all my machines!
@@Darkwingdad nice, I’m going to order the right ones for my cr-10 V2 it really needs them. After that I will install my bl-touch because the middle is lifted compaired to the rest otherwise I can’t make wide prints. How’s your bed on Cr-10 V2? I might contact the seller and ask for a new heated bed. Need some evidence for that it’s crooked I guess.
@@FrankGiuliani my bed seems fine, my springs were super compressed & bed was set high, it juuuuust hits the z shut off switch. I got a bltouch for my v3, I am so illiterate to firmware and flashing I hope I can figure it out lol
I may just get different springs, so far mine have been ok
I am interested
It will be up tomorrow at the latest
Do they reduce noise?
They help reduce vibration
Have you ever done a video on belt tensioners?
I’ll actually have a video up tomorrow that explains and shows belt tension & roller adjusting on a cr10 v2 :)
@@Darkwingdad if you are up for suggestions I would be interested in a way to make switching thermistors and heater blocks more like plug and play
instead of all the soldering.