Why Your Onefinity Elite CNC Needs A Tool Setter! PLUS Bonus Masso Setup Tip!!
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- My Shapeoko Pro taught me a valuable lesson: Tool setters are an absolute MUST-HAVE accessory! In this video, you'll learn the advantages of adding a tool setter to your Onefinity Elite. This is a simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade for your CNC. No more manually re-zeroing the Z after each tool change. In your CAD program, save all your tool paths into one g-code file and send it to your Masso (or other controller). When prompted, change the tool, tap the green "cycle start" button on the Masso, then sit back and enjoy the show. It's truly a game-changer!
You can buy the "Z Zer.o" tool setter from Dash Made Woodworking on Etsy at the link below:
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Onefinity featured me on their website's October 2023 "Meet The Maker" blog. Learn more about me and where I started my woodworking and CNC journey.
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Love the videos. I have had my tool setter for awhile now and I used it a few times. Some times it worked and sometimes it didn’t…. Not sure what I am doing wrong?? I have a couple questions.
Do I need to have the tool number programmed into the masso unit?
Could you make a short video on how to program with tool number in vcarve and then load it to masso then run the job? You explain things so well!
Thank you, and keep making videos!
Hi Mike, thanks for the question. I recommend that you read the tool setter info in the Masso doc linked below.
📸 Look at this post on Facebook docs.masso.com.au/wiring-and-setup/touch-plate/how-tool-setter-works?fbclid=IwAR1l5bz1VHWODUYoBAI8gf4RcLCv60PlszoTYtGj9zTB4yOVkqMWmMxJyns_aem_AdXw6aPlwPCEDSJiQnSaPHZaimZH0c3YTOKFOiP8y0AUwlni4d-RoJBDn3fTY2ypJPc
If you’re asking if your router bits have to be numbered in Masso, the answer is yes. If you’re using VCarve you’ll first need to assign a unique number between 01 - 100 to each bit in your VCarve tool database. Then use those exact numbers when you add them to your Masso.
I’ll try to make a video of this process in the near future. Thanks for watching!
I have mine but haven’t set up my machine yet. Can’t wait!!
Thanks for the video!!!
Man you need to get busy! 😉👍
I have seen suggestions that The mounting of the spindle should be as far down as possible, with even, a second mounting at the top of the spindle
Minimizing "spindle stick out" 😊
@@satxsatxsatx I’m not sure what you mean by “a second mounting at the top of the spindle”? Please explain.
@@MitchellsWoodwork I've got one of these for my Elite, and can vouch for it's usefulness, and the efficiency it brings by not having to save tool paths individually. I just wish Steve Dash had made the button on it ever so slightly larger, as I can't use it on bits like a 9.5mm diameter keyhole bit. No problem though I just save the keyhole path separately and turn off automatic tool setting. When I'm done, I turn it back on.
I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying your tool setter too, John. Thanks for watching and commenting!!
Great video and much appreciated! I'm struggling a bit as a Newbie to both this tool setter, my new Elite Foreman and CNC in generally but learning by my mistakes! Your video is helping.
We all struggled at first, that’s normal. Just keep trying and asking questions. Are you a member of the Onefinity forum? forum.onefinitycnc.com/c/machines-elite-series/118
Good lucky buddy. I’ll be in your shoes in just a couple of weeks when my Elite Foreman comes in the mail too. I’m a bit terrified and excited all at the same time. It’s “fun” learning new chit every once in a while, but this one is costing a ton of money to get into. lol
@@ryankim3612 it really is an expensive hobby to get into, but I can tell you from experience that it's sooo worth it in the long run! Keep us updated on your progress!
I started with CNC machine tools long before automated tool setting was available, and I manually touched off thousands of cutting tools. If you wanted any cutting tools preset, then you set the length in the tool room and measured it for accuracy using a height gage. Eventually, the VMCs had a very expensive tool setter but it was up to the machine tool programmer (me) to write the program to set either a single tool or every tool in the carousel. How things have changed over the past 45 years. Instead of several thousand dollars for a tool setter the price is easily affordable by hobbyists.
Thanks for commenting, it's great to get a perspective from someone that was doing CNC's many years before they became so accessible to the masses. I don't know what "VMC's" are, but did you write the program and use the tool setter when it became available? If so, what were your thoughts about them at that time?
@@MitchellsWoodwork A VMC is a Vertical Machining Center. It's basically a large CNC milling machine with a full enclosure, automatic tool changer, flood coolant to extend life of the cutting tools, and other features. And yes, I had to write the program that enabled the tool setter to perform its function.
@@gaiustacitus4242 was it all gcode and mcode like these machines use?
@@MitchellsWoodwork Yes. It had to be hand written because the post processors available for EZ-CAM didn't support our version of the Fanuc controls. That wasn't much of an issue though, as I'd been writing G-code with the assistance of my trusty HP calculators and a text editor for years.
I've never actually worked with a CNC machine tool that didn't use G-code. The closest I came to a machine that didn't use G-code was sitting through a presentation for a Hurco milling machine at IMTS in 1992.
@@gaiustacitus4242 That's awesome! I sure hope you continue to follow my channel and offer your unique insight. I enjoy your perspective on modern CNC tools and techniques as compared to "back in the day". :)
Great videos, very helpful. I have a question. I've been using a tool setter and love it. I recently surfaced my table. Do I need to change settings as now my table is lower than it was?
Great question, but I don’t think that will make any difference, as long as your tool setter is still at the original height as before. But let’s let the manufacturer @sdasherx chime in to make sure. I’ll let him know he’s being paged.😉
Hi sea5363, There is no need to change any settings as long as the tool setter stayed in the same location.
@@sdasherx Thanks I figured that but was still a bit puzzled.
I need a spindle so badly
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Im still wondering which cnc is better Shapeoko pro 5 4x4 or onefinity elite foreman 4x4 & so far im seeing shapeoko pro 5 getting better results! Which is better?
I was a Shapeoko guy too, and I really loved my Shapeoko Pro XXL 32” x 32”. When I realized I needed a bigger machine, the SO5 Pro was my original go-to upgrade by default, but Onefinity was on my radar as well. The number one thing that eventually made me choose the Elite over the Shapeoko 5 Pro was the Masso controller.
After using my Elite for a few months it has proved two things to me, without a shadow of a doubt:
#1 is the Masso controller is everything I imagined it would be times 10! It’s capabilities are so far above and beyond anything else in the hobby CNC universe that there’s really nothing else to compare it to. It truly is THAT much better than the rest.
#2 is that I can now see daily in real life operation how much stronger, stiffer and faster the Onefinity Elite is than the rest of the hobby grade machines on the market. Like the Masso, the Onefinity is truly in a league of its own, and actually overlaps into the commercial grade level if you only need 48” x 48” capacity.
The Shapeoko Pro does come with more bells and whistles out of the box (a tool setter being the most glaring example), but the aftermarket tool setter I use now is every bit as accurate and functional as the one on my SOPro XXL, and it only cost $65 US. So don’t let that, and the BitRunner, cloud your judgement. Do your homework. Watch the Onefinity vs Shapeoko videos here on RUclips and they all lead to the same conclusion: Onefinity is better.
thanks @@MitchellsWoodwork
How does it know the thickness of material your milling? From job set up input? And where you put your job. Do you still use probe to locate x and y?
Sorry for all questions
To begin, use your first bit and the probe to set your initial X, Y, Z zero, just like always.
Then, when it’s time to switch to the next bit (and tool path), the tool setter measures it and adjusts the spindle (or router) Z height to match the Z height measurement from your original probe at the beginning.
The tool setter eliminates the need to manually probe the 2nd, 3rd, etc. bits used on the carve. It also allows you to save and load ALL of the individual tool paths into one gcode file. No more loading each tool path individually.
Long story short, there is NO disadvantage to using a tool setter. It’s all a 100% advantage over doing it the old way. Very few things in life give 100% benefits with no down side, but the tool setter is one of them.
Hello Mr. Mitchells. I found your channel, and really like your vids. I'm new to CNC world, so I'm on a fast learning curve now. I do have Onefinity Elite Foreman, which I manually operate my spindle(I yet to figure out my VFD settings to make MASSO Touch control it). I bought tool setter(Z Zer.o), that mounts to table(I build my own), I tried to run couple of tests on a sample wood, but my Bit plunges so deep, emergency
I answered your second post.
Sir,
So I’m a little confused by the but setter. How does the bit setter know the material Z ? Or are you getting a material Z before hand?
Great question and I hadn’t realized that I didn’t cover that. The very first step is to set your Z on the surface of your material, whether with a probe block or by using the paper method. The advantage of a tool setter is that you only have to manually set your Z on the work surface one time. Once the Z is established the tool setter will take over from there and measure each new tool and automatically make adjustments for different tool lengths. No more resetting the Z after each tool change.
Also, with a tool setter you save all of your tool paths to one file and send the gcode to your post processor. No more loading each tool path separately!
Thank you Anthony8374 for asking that question. I was wondering the same. And thank you Mr Mitchellswoodwork for yet another generous/helpful answer!! Your videos are SUPER great (and dam funny)!
Hey, man. What's the difference between the Tool Changer Position you describe at the end of this video and the Parking Location you describe in another video? Any reason why I wouldn't want to set both? Considerations in choosing a parking location?
Typically you’d want the tool changing position to be in the front for easy access. But the parking position is where you want the spindle to move to when the carve is completed. Moving it to the very back of the machine usually gives you easier access to remove the piece you’ve just finished carving.
Thanks for the great videos.
I do a lot of flattening with a 1-1/2 inch bit. Is there a way to easily bypass my tool setter?
After homering, the Masso automatically goes to the tool setter, and that 1-1/2 bit can not use the tool setter.
Yes, in Masso > F1 > Auto Tool Zero > Uncheck “Enable auto tool zero” > Save
Nice video. Can you place the tool setter anywhere on your wasteboard? Like the top right corner, for example. And if so, then I'm assuming you have to program it in Masso so it knows where it's at?
Yes, technically you could put it anywhere within the cutting area of your machine. Then it’s a simple process to program the location into your Masso. Thanks for watching!
You homed, set the tool and then started the cut. How did it know your material thickness?
Great question and I’m sorry I failed to cover that. The very first step is to set your Z on the surface of your material, whether with a probe block or by using the paper method. The advantage of a tool setter is that you only have to manually set your Z on the work surface one time. Once the Z is established the tool setter will take over from there and measure each new tool and automatically make adjustments for different tool lengths. No more resetting the Z after each tool change.
Also, with a tool setter you save all of your tool paths to one file and send the gcode to your post processor. No more loading each tool path separately!
@Mitchellswoodwork, which do you like better? The Elite Foreman, or Shapoko Pro ?
Hi Daniel, thanks for watching and for the question. First let me assure you that I am not sponsored by Onefinity or Shapeoko.
Comparing my previous Shapeoko Pro XXL to the Elite Foreman, I’ll do my best to keep it fair by comparing apples to apples. Speaking strictly about the actual CNC hardware and not the controller: The Onefinity is so much stiffer and stronger, it’s not even close. Also, belt driven machines, like the Shapeoko I had, can’t compete with ball screw driven machines in terms of speed, accuracy and durability.
As far as the controller aspect, the Masso has no peer in the hobby CNC market. It is so far above and beyond anything else available for the hobbyist, it’s impossible to compare it to anything else. It’s simply in a class of its own.
@@MitchellsWoodwork sounds like your all for the onefinity Elite Foreman! I’ve been looking for a little while now and thank goodness I came across Onefinity. I was set on the Shapoko, but have now decided against it. Thanks for your advice!
Which clamps are those? I have the QCW board and am looking for some new clamps/tbolt setup.
I made those myself, out of walnut scraps. I made a short video when I made them.
ruclips.net/video/shtRMTRPVY8/видео.htmlsi=OqQoqFWro4mdbsus
@@MitchellsWoodwork - It says the video is private.
Nice video. By design, if using a bit setter.. you are setting z off the surface of the spoilboard right?
how does resurfacing spoilboard impact this? Also if my material thickness isn’t 100% accurate on CAD software, assuming this matters as well (as opposed to setting Z to material surface with a probe).
Am I understanding the process correctly?
I’ve never had the nerve to try zeroing off the spoilboard. But there’s another follower on here that has just about convinced me to give it a try.
New to OneFinity, cnc and vcarve. So, when you are saving your g code are you saving each bit as a separate g code file? That’s what I do now. It sounds like you are somehow saving one g code with a bunch of bit changes in the same file. Or did I understand that wrong and each but change you are doing is another file? If that makes sense 🤣
You are correct, I use the “save all visible tool paths into one file” option in VCarve Pro. To my knowledge, you can only do this method if you have a tool setter. That’s one of the main benefits of having a tool setter.
Which 1F machine do you have?
@@MitchellsWoodwork well now I want a tool setter even more than the first video! I have the 1F Elite Journeyman. First cnc and first go at vcarve or anything else computer design.
@@a91customs the tool setter I’m using was only $70 or so including shipping. I have it linked in the description. You’ll never regret adding a tool setter. There are no down-sides to having a tool setter, it’s all good.
Great video. Just a quick question (trying to get my head around the flow of things). Once the material is mounted, do you first use the touch probe, so the machine knows where the material x, y, z is... and then it auto sends itself to the touch probe to touch off?
Yes, you’ll use the probe for the X, Y, Z measurements ONE time. From then on, the tool setter measures each new bit automatically before resuming the carve. Trust me, it’s the greatest thing since sliced bread!
That makes sense, I was getting myself confused again. Lol. Thank you, keep up these videos, they are informative. I bought the Foreman (and the Kreg bench). The bench is here, now waiting on the machine. Have a lot to learn! @@MitchellsWoodwork
I have watched a few of your videos, and it would seem that you and I have traveled a similar path. I started with a shapeoko xxl, and recently graduated to the the OneInfinity Elite. I am chomping at the bit, waiting for my spindle to arrive from pwn. I heard you mention that your dust collector is a Festool in either this video or one of the others I have watched. I use a CT 48, but the factory D27 hose is not big enough for the workload, resulting in multiple clogs. Should I go with the D36, or do you have a different recommendation? The collector and the extractor were not cheap, and I would like to use them in the most effective manner possible while not adding to my workload and having to babysit and clear blockages.
Yep, I have a Festool CT15 with an Oneida Dust Deputy mounted to a 5 gallon bucket. Works great for everything except a surfacing bit. The CT48 should be an awesome option. Which dust boot are you using?
@@MitchellsWoodwork I got the one that Onefinity carries when I ordered the machine not realizing that it's receiver ID is around 2 inches. My OD on my hose is 1.35 inches. When I ordered the spindle from pwn, I order their bundle for this machine and it was either the V9 or V10. I have not receive the order yet because there is a lead time on the spindle.
Great video, thanks! Is the tool setter lower than your spoil board? It's hard to tell from the video, but it doesn't look flush with the spoil board. Just curious, I've ordered mine but haven't received it yet. Does it have to be flush with the spoil board?
Thanks! After surfacing my spoil board once, my tool setter sits -.07 below the surface. It can be hard to explain or comprehend, but the height of the tool setter is totally independent of the height of the spoil board. It’s going to work out the math regardless. Having said that, I prefer the tool setter to be below the surface so that it doesn’t contact the work piece. For example, when doing a tile cut, the work piece could need to be placed over the top of the tool setter. In that situation you’d just have to resort back to the old way of setting the Z zero manually after each bit change…using the probe block or paper method.
Let me know how you like it when yours is installed! 😊
Oh boy, my message was truncated...
... light goes on. In your Software programming, do your set your Z touch-off from table bed (spoil board), or from top of work peace?
I set my Z on surface of the workpiece.
@@MitchellsWoodwork Thank you for a reply. I do fine without tool setter, so just wondering if there's something else I need to setup?
If you think thats nice, you should get an ATC (automatic tool changer) in combination with the bit settter. Life will never be the same! lol
I’m just gonna say this….keep watching.🤫
Background question - what is the program you started in, before sending the G-code to the Masso?
VCarve Pro > Masso Link
@@MitchellsWoodwork Okay, I'll take a look at how VCarve Pro works - maybe I can import CAD into it, and make the G-code consistently that way.
@@NeilBlanchard how are you generating your gcode now?
@@MitchellsWoodwork It has been about 10 years since I used G-code; on my PhlatPrinter III. I have the jogging working on my Journeyman Elite, but I have yet to do any of the basic settings, and I can't figure how to spin up the spindle, or power the vacuum, yet.
I need to do some simple practicing, and get into turning my CAD drawings into G-code.
Oh, and I need to install to tool setter.
Does this Z.zer.o work with a 1/2" bit?
A 1/2” end mill, no. Measuring mine it looks like the max would be 5/16” or so max capacity.
@@MitchellsWoodwork Bummer - I ordered it, and I would like to be able to use a 1/2" end mill bit. I wonder if a shim/extension could be used?
@NeilBlanchard contact Steve (Dash) through Etsy. He’d be the man to talk to. www.etsy.com/shop/DashMadeWoodworking
@@NeilBlanchard Ill send you something so you can use larger bits.
@@sdasherx Thank you - that is excellent!