I know this video has been a while, but every mistake is a lesson, and every lesson makes us better at what we do! Do not feel bad about making mistakes. If anything, I am proud that you didn't hide it and used it to share the lesson with everyone else.
Glad it was helpful! Sometimes I have to rewatch a video several times before it finally “clicks” with me. But I AM a caveman, so that’s to be expected. 😉
That what I like about you Mitchell honest with your mistakes As you know in the cnc world if anyone says they don't make mistakes they a fibbing!!! HA! HA! Great Job!!!!
Thanks Dave! I don’t particularly like sharing my mistakes, and I don’t share ALL of them, mainly just the “lesson learned” type. I make some that are even too humiliating for ME to show!🤫🤭🫣😬😂
I followed your directions to the tee but when I run G56 it goes back to wherever the last zero was. I noticed that my MPG Axis is off where yours is not. The one beside your work offset.
Hi Tim, click the link below to go go my digital business card. Text me at my cell number and I’ll be glad to walk you through it. I’m available until 8:00pm CST. dot.cards/mitchellswoodwork
Cool stuff. Enjoy watching and learning. Just got mine and setting up all my stuff. I liked the grid lines. Did you surface that board or because you use the spacers underneath, you don't worry about the surfacing? And do you have a video on making the gridlines? Thanks, I appreciate all the information you are sharing including the mistakes as they might save me some pain.
Thanks for watching! If you’re asking if I surfaced my waste board, absolutely. That was one of the first things I did when I got my machine put together. I made a video about the grid lines: ruclips.net/video/UqSSEO4-Nck/видео.htmlsi=PCkAYIOljy8vsQFQ I’ve videoed everything I’ve ever did to my Elite Foreman. Check out the ‘Onefinity Mods & Tips’ playlist below: ruclips.net/p/PLqRrCnqsxc205ni9bmqukEaVEn2pkQF9M&si=9gmQWIHqVLVWbPsj Congrats on your new Elite! Let me know if I can help you with anything.😊
Informative video. You should be able to set a parking location so the spindle will move out of the way when the tool path is complete. I haven't messed with that yet so I don't know exactly how to do it. Maybe add GXX(parking) at the end of the toolpath?
I learned how to bring the spindle forward for each tool change, but I haven't figured out how to make it move to the back when the project is complete. I also haven't figured out how to make the spindle come on automatically at the beginning of the project. It'll come on automatically after each tool change, but not for the first tool path.
Great video! Why did you shave down the fence to make it line up with the grid? Because you drilled the insert anchors with the cnc wouldn’t that make it automatically square to the machine?
Great question! The fence was indeed automatically square to the machine, but my starting goal was to split the grid lines but I missed by just a hair. It was fine the way it was, but I also looked at it as an exercise to familiarize myself with my new machine. Being able to make those super accurate cuts can really pay off in many scenarios, like cutting inlay pockets, for example.
Just wondering, i noticed your honing button is mounted in a fixed position and looks like its slightly below the spillboard. How does the machine know the length of the bit and where the surface of the work piece is if the honing button is slightly below the surface?
That button is actually my tool setter. It’s way too complicated for me to explain here, but the height of the tool setter in relation to the spoil board is irrelevant. Check out my video below for a better understanding of the tool setter and touch probe. Ultimate Guide to Tool Setter & Touch Probe Use On Onefinity Elite CNC ruclips.net/video/w7auvta0g44/видео.html
Great video! Thanks. Question for you, when using the tool setter, do you have to zero the bit onto your work serface or do you have it set to the spoil board zero? Thanks
Hi Chris, great question! I always zero off the top of the material, but I suppose you could do it either way. I've just always did my carves that way. But you could be onto something there. Hmmmm....🤔
You can use the spoil board as the zero as long that is also selected in your programming software and your material height is correctly added. I like to set the spoil board as the work surface when cutting repeat items of slightly different thicknesses like jack o lanterns from fence boards.
Could you have just overlaid the fence project in VCarve over your grid project in VCarve where you want the fence to reside, and then adjust the diameter of the holes as needed?
Yes, I’m sure that would’ve worked perfectly. But back when this video was made, everything was still practically new and I had a lot to learn. I still have a lot to learn, but I can honestly say my skills and knowledge have improved a lot since then. 😉
If i may ask, would it not be easier to just set up a MFT style spoilboard with 20mm dog holes? You could then use either low profile planing stops or bench dogs to square your woekpiece each time? Again, if I’m incorrect, I apologize but we are so used to using a MFT dog hole grid when squaring any size work pieces. Thanks
That’s a great point. I’ve never had a CNC with an MFT style waste board, but that is certainly a great option. I’ve thought about switching over to dog holes since I installed the ATC, but I’m not sure it that’s the best option for my QCW waste board since my MDF work surface is only 3/4” thick. Do you think 3/4” would be thick enough to hold the dog firmly without eventually having movement issues? The fence works fantastic too, and is every bit as accurate as dog holes. Plus, if you accidentally cut into it, you’re not apt to ruin a bit, and the fence is cheap and easy to make. I’d love to see your spoilboard setup. If you’d consider sending me a few pics I’d sure appreciate it. dot.cards/mitchellswoodwork
@@MitchellsWoodwork Hi Mitchell, I’m debating on which CNC to buy so at this moment I can’t show you a picture of what my intended wasteboard (spoilboard) would look like. I’m debating between a few different companies like the Onefinity Elite Foreman model or a new model that was just released from Seinci Labs called the Altmill. Hobby machine’s kinda scare me cause I don’t know if they are built ridged enough while also NOT being able to handle high volume production work like Cabinetry work as that is what we would use our machine for mainly As far as the thickness if the wasteboard for a low profile bench dog or planing stop to work is 3/4 would be ideal thickness. The only thing that i would suggest when pocketing the 20mm dog holes is to ensure the hole is not larger then 19.5mm in diameter so the dog holes have a nice tight fit for any accessory like a bench dog or planing stop. I wouldn’t know which toolpath would be ideal in order to achieve the correct accuracy but i have built many MFT tables and had a local friend CNC out the holes for me and they work great. If you wanna see an example of one of our tables, i put out a youtube video on our channel showing one if our workbenches that was custom made. In essence the table top would be cut to size to fit the wasteboard area and pocket out the holes. Secure the wasteboard down to the Qwc and away you go. You can then square work material anywhere you want on tje wasteboard when starting a new project. Hope that helps and thank you again for sharing all your insights with all of us. 😀😀
I'm having an issue with my vetric set up, (trying to get my software stuff sorted before machine gets here) software does not create previews in elite foreman masso processors if the material is wider then about 800mm. Tried with a 18mm x 50mmx1220mm, simple 33mmx 1mm pocket on one side, it shows me the tool paths, shows the bit moving in preview, but doesn't remove material... Can you try this in yours and see if it works please?
@@MitchellsWoodwork No, the onefinity elite foreman inch and onefinity masso mm versions. Are you using the atc ones? How does that work if you have the water cooled spindle?
@@8thsinner I use the Masso ATC Arcs (inch) post processor. The post processor is unrelated in any way (that I’m aware of) to the type of spindle you’re using. The PP just sends the gcode generated by your VCarve software to your Masso controller.
@@MitchellsWoodworktried that one, same issue. I guess this is some kinda vetric issue itself??? can you try making a file this size and see if you get it working please?
@@bigdogmn73 no, I stay with the G55 for the duration of the job. In my case, the inside corner of the fence is my permanent G55 offset, so it’s basically my permanent X Y zero. The only time I don’t use my fence is if the workpiece is too large to fit between the fence and the B rail (right side Y rail). As long as I use my fence and my G55, the XY never changes. All of my jobs start at the exact same XY location on the waste board…the inside corner of my fence, aka my G55. I never have to manually set my XY. It’s already programmed into the G55 offset.
@@MitchellsWoodwork yup got ya. I just purchased a used elite journeyman over the weekend and I have jay Bates onefinity cart plans. I wanted to setup his fence and work offset but when I try to run the job it keeps giving soft limit errors. I'm a 1000% on board to this approach just have to figure out a few errors along the way. Your video was extremely helpful. Got me 90% there.
In your CAD software (VCarve Pro?) go into the job setup for the project and make sure you have the XY set to bottom left for your project. It may be set to start in the center of the project by default.
@@MitchellsWoodwork yup vcarve pro....good point on the XY in setup. I'll check that...your video's are SO key to my progress....it only takes me a few hours to get up to speed on things that might take a weeks/month otherwise..
I am surprised at how quiet that spindle is. I have also ordered the 2.2 water cooled spindle kit from pwncnc but I think this is the first time i've seen it cutting live with no sound edit.
After listening to a Makita trim router all these years, this spindle almost feels like cheating. You’re gonna love it! What kind of CNC are you putting it on?
@@MitchellsWoodwork Same as yours, only difference is i'm getting the standing table too. And I haven't ordered the tool setter yet. I probably will but will start with probe and see how much money is left after import.
@@8thsinner the tool setter will be your most loved accessory, don't skip out on it. And to help take the sting out of the price of the toolsetter, use my 10% discount code MITCHWOOD10 in the "Apply Etsy Discount Code" box! www.etsy.com/listing/1478419524/z-zer0-automatic-cnc-tool-touch-probe?click_key=ee3d171938aa430eb4ffdd0250dbb89b76ade9fd%3A1478419524&click_sum=a7badae3&ref=also_bought-1&sts=1
I know this video has been a while, but every mistake is a lesson, and every lesson makes us better at what we do! Do not feel bad about making mistakes. If anything, I am proud that you didn't hide it and used it to share the lesson with everyone else.
Thanks for saying that. It’s not easy showing mistakes and failures to the public, but from the beginning I’ve tried my best to keep it real.
Watched this a few weeks ago and I was lost. Watched it again and it makes so much sense, great idea. Thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful! Sometimes I have to rewatch a video several times before it finally “clicks” with me. But I AM a caveman, so that’s to be expected. 😉
Clever!!!! Love the auxilary fence too.
Thanks!
you will love the vfd spindle upgraded my pro cant live without.
I already love my PwnCNC VFD! You running a Shapeoko Pro??
That what I like about you Mitchell honest with your mistakes As you know in the cnc world if anyone says they don't make mistakes they a fibbing!!! HA! HA! Great Job!!!!
Thanks Dave! I don’t particularly like sharing my mistakes, and I don’t share ALL of them, mainly just the “lesson learned” type. I make some that are even too humiliating for ME to show!🤫🤭🫣😬😂
I followed your directions to the tee but when I run G56 it goes back to wherever the last zero was. I noticed that my MPG Axis is off where yours is not. The one beside your work offset.
Hi Tim, click the link below to go go my digital business card. Text me at my cell number and I’ll be glad to walk you through it. I’m available until 8:00pm CST.
dot.cards/mitchellswoodwork
Cool stuff. Enjoy watching and learning. Just got mine and setting up all my stuff. I liked the grid lines. Did you surface that board or because you use the spacers underneath, you don't worry about the surfacing? And do you have a video on making the gridlines? Thanks, I appreciate all the information you are sharing including the mistakes as they might save me some pain.
Thanks for watching! If you’re asking if I surfaced my waste board, absolutely. That was one of the first things I did when I got my machine put together.
I made a video about the grid lines:
ruclips.net/video/UqSSEO4-Nck/видео.htmlsi=PCkAYIOljy8vsQFQ
I’ve videoed everything I’ve ever did to my Elite Foreman. Check out the ‘Onefinity Mods & Tips’ playlist below:
ruclips.net/p/PLqRrCnqsxc205ni9bmqukEaVEn2pkQF9M&si=9gmQWIHqVLVWbPsj
Congrats on your new Elite! Let me know if I can help you with anything.😊
Awesome! Remember it's not a mistake if you can't see it! 🙂 Keep the videos coming!
I like the way you think! I need that on a sign in my shop…😁. Thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it.
😊👍
Informative video. You should be able to set a parking location so the spindle will move out of the way when the tool path is complete. I haven't messed with that yet so I don't know exactly how to do it. Maybe add GXX(parking) at the end of the toolpath?
I learned how to bring the spindle forward for each tool change, but I haven't figured out how to make it move to the back when the project is complete.
I also haven't figured out how to make the spindle come on automatically at the beginning of the project. It'll come on automatically after each tool change, but not for the first tool path.
Great video.
Thanks!
The grid on the waste board are they in 1" blocks ?
Do you have a video of how it's done?
Thank you
Here ya go:
ruclips.net/video/UqSSEO4-Nck/видео.htmlsi=EnHTOucaVy2eN21N
Great video! Why did you shave down the fence to make it line up with the grid? Because you drilled the insert anchors with the cnc wouldn’t that make it automatically square to the machine?
Great question! The fence was indeed automatically square to the machine, but my starting goal was to split the grid lines but I missed by just a hair. It was fine the way it was, but I also looked at it as an exercise to familiarize myself with my new machine. Being able to make those super accurate cuts can really pay off in many scenarios, like cutting inlay pockets, for example.
@@MitchellsWoodwork Thank you. That’s kind of what I thought but wasn’t sure if I was missing something.
Thank you for the education!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching and be sure to subscribe to my channel, lots more topics coming up!
Just wondering, i noticed your honing button is mounted in a fixed position and looks like its slightly below the spillboard. How does the machine know the length of the bit and where the surface of the work piece is if the honing button is slightly below the surface?
That button is actually my tool setter. It’s way too complicated for me to explain here, but the height of the tool setter in relation to the spoil board is irrelevant. Check out my video below for a better understanding of the tool setter and touch probe.
Ultimate Guide to Tool Setter & Touch Probe Use On Onefinity Elite CNC
ruclips.net/video/w7auvta0g44/видео.html
Great video! Thanks.
Question for you, when using the tool setter, do you have to zero the bit onto your work serface or do you have it set to the spoil board zero?
Thanks
Hi Chris, great question! I always zero off the top of the material, but I suppose you could do it either way. I've just always did my carves that way. But you could be onto something there. Hmmmm....🤔
You can use the spoil board as the zero as long that is also selected in your programming software and your material height is correctly added. I like to set the spoil board as the work surface when cutting repeat items of slightly different thicknesses like jack o lanterns from fence boards.
I'm gonna have to play around with that technique. Thanks!
@@sdasherx This is an awsome technique. Ensures when doing tabs your spot on!!!
Could you have just overlaid the fence project in VCarve over your grid project in VCarve where you want the fence to reside, and then adjust the diameter of the holes as needed?
Yes, I’m sure that would’ve worked perfectly. But back when this video was made, everything was still practically new and I had a lot to learn. I still have a lot to learn, but I can honestly say my skills and knowledge have improved a lot since then. 😉
If i may ask, would it not be easier to just set up a MFT style spoilboard with 20mm dog holes? You could then use either low profile planing stops or bench dogs to square your woekpiece each time? Again, if I’m incorrect, I apologize but we are so used to using a MFT dog hole grid when squaring any size work pieces. Thanks
That’s a great point. I’ve never had a CNC with an MFT style waste board, but that is certainly a great option. I’ve thought about switching over to dog holes since I installed the ATC, but I’m not sure it that’s the best option for my QCW waste board since my MDF work surface is only 3/4” thick. Do you think 3/4” would be thick enough to hold the dog firmly without eventually having movement issues?
The fence works fantastic too, and is every bit as accurate as dog holes. Plus, if you accidentally cut into it, you’re not apt to ruin a bit, and the fence is cheap and easy to make.
I’d love to see your spoilboard setup. If you’d consider sending me a few pics I’d sure appreciate it.
dot.cards/mitchellswoodwork
@@MitchellsWoodwork Hi Mitchell, I’m debating on which CNC to buy so at this moment I can’t show you a picture of what my intended wasteboard (spoilboard) would look like. I’m debating between a few different companies like the Onefinity Elite Foreman model or a new model that was just released from Seinci Labs called the Altmill. Hobby machine’s kinda scare me cause I don’t know if they are built ridged enough while also NOT being able to handle high volume production work like Cabinetry work as that is what we would use our machine for mainly
As far as the thickness if the wasteboard for a low profile bench dog or planing stop to work is 3/4 would be ideal thickness. The only thing that i would suggest when pocketing the 20mm dog holes is to ensure the hole is not larger then 19.5mm in diameter so the dog holes have a nice tight fit for any accessory like a bench dog or planing stop. I wouldn’t know which toolpath would be ideal in order to achieve the correct accuracy but i have built many MFT tables and had a local friend CNC out the holes for me and they work great. If you wanna see an example of one of our tables, i put out a youtube video on our channel showing one if our workbenches that was custom made. In essence the table top would be cut to size to fit the wasteboard area and pocket out the holes. Secure the wasteboard down to the Qwc and away you go. You can then square work material anywhere you want on tje wasteboard when starting a new project. Hope that helps and thank you again for sharing all your insights with all of us. 😀😀
I'm having an issue with my vetric set up, (trying to get my software stuff sorted before machine gets here)
software does not create previews in elite foreman masso processors if the material is wider then about 800mm.
Tried with a 18mm x 50mmx1220mm, simple 33mmx 1mm pocket on one side, it shows me the tool paths, shows the bit moving in preview, but doesn't remove material...
Can you try this in yours and see if it works please?
Are you using the ACT Arcs (mm) post processor in Vectric?
@@MitchellsWoodwork No, the onefinity elite foreman inch and onefinity masso mm versions.
Are you using the atc ones?
How does that work if you have the water cooled spindle?
@@8thsinner I use the Masso ATC Arcs (inch) post processor. The post processor is unrelated in any way (that I’m aware of) to the type of spindle you’re using. The PP just sends the gcode generated by your VCarve software to your Masso controller.
@@MitchellsWoodworktried that one, same issue.
I guess this is some kinda vetric issue itself???
can you try making a file this size and see if you get it working please?
Are you new to VCarve?
Awesome brother. Keep the tips coming. Love them.
Thanks man, I appreciate the encouraging words! 😊👍
Question on the work offsets..after you get your cnc to the fence location you have to change it back to G54 to start your job right?
@@bigdogmn73 no, I stay with the G55 for the duration of the job. In my case, the inside corner of the fence is my permanent G55 offset, so it’s basically my permanent X Y zero. The only time I don’t use my fence is if the workpiece is too large to fit between the fence and the B rail (right side Y rail). As long as I use my fence and my G55, the XY never changes. All of my jobs start at the exact same XY location on the waste board…the inside corner of my fence, aka my G55. I never have to manually set my XY. It’s already programmed into the G55 offset.
Use a fence and offset one time and you’ll never go back to the caveman method.
@@MitchellsWoodwork yup got ya. I just purchased a used elite journeyman over the weekend and I have jay Bates onefinity cart plans. I wanted to setup his fence and work offset but when I try to run the job it keeps giving soft limit errors. I'm a 1000% on board to this approach just have to figure out a few errors along the way. Your video was extremely helpful. Got me 90% there.
In your CAD software (VCarve Pro?) go into the job setup for the project and make sure you have the XY set to bottom left for your project. It may be set to start in the center of the project by default.
@@MitchellsWoodwork yup vcarve pro....good point on the XY in setup. I'll check that...your video's are SO key to my progress....it only takes me a few hours to get up to speed on things that might take a weeks/month otherwise..
I am surprised at how quiet that spindle is. I have also ordered the 2.2 water cooled spindle kit from pwncnc but I think this is the first time i've seen it cutting live with no sound edit.
After listening to a Makita trim router all these years, this spindle almost feels like cheating. You’re gonna love it! What kind of CNC are you putting it on?
@@MitchellsWoodwork Same as yours, only difference is i'm getting the standing table too. And I haven't ordered the tool setter yet. I probably will but will start with probe and see how much money is left after import.
@@8thsinner the tool setter will be your most loved accessory, don't skip out on it. And to help take the sting out of the price of the toolsetter, use my 10% discount code MITCHWOOD10 in the "Apply Etsy Discount Code" box!
www.etsy.com/listing/1478419524/z-zer0-automatic-cnc-tool-touch-probe?click_key=ee3d171938aa430eb4ffdd0250dbb89b76ade9fd%3A1478419524&click_sum=a7badae3&ref=also_bought-1&sts=1