That was great just a quick question after unplugging the 2 wires on the control box panel under the steering wheel if you had a spare second hand box and plugged it in alongside the original control box would the car then start as the new control box was not damaged and faulty or are these control boxes coded to the car and will not work unless programmed thanks john .again
Hi thanks for the information and help. I thought about it .. And if you just need the module then why break up the whole steering column? See the module from below even before you dismantle the steering column, so you can't just disassemble the module?
I don’t disassembled the control module in this particular video but I do another videos that I made on this but I found that most of the time when people try to repair the control module themselves they end up destroying it and causing themselves a lot more money so I just recommend people send them to me I repair them and send them back to you without having to have them programmed
I have a 2006 A6 3.2 and it sounds like the module under the steering column is working. After Hooking up the scanner and 'magic', the scanner shows kessy is good. Could it be a bad solenoid? If not, what could it be
Hi Clay, awesome job! One question, in my 2006 Audi A6 Avant 3.2, how do you get to the third screw (center) that is holding the module? In my case the screw is being blocked by a plate so I can’t get to it 🧐
Well I’m not 100% sure which one you’re talking about. And if I remember correctly you have to loosen something up to get to one of the screws I do these all the time but don’t really think about it any longer. I’m extremely sorry that I can’t be more detailed try moving the steering wheel a little bit maybe that will give you the access that you need I’m just totally not for sure without seeing it. If you want to send me a picture to my Facebook page clays A/C and Auto Repair I probably can help you out a lot more
I figured it out already. Thank you so much for all your videos. I wish RUclips will let us attach pictures soon. Well, I had to drill carefully two holes to get access to the third small screw that holds the black plastic piece inside the module. I believe the black plastic piece holds the locking mechanism in the steering column of which makes a noise ( like a transformer from the movie) when it locks and unlocks. My problem was that I removed the steering column without unlocking it with Vcds so that’s why the third screw mentioned before didn’t line up with the small hole to be able to unscrew it. I have some pictures if someone encounters the same problem. Today I put everything back on and I ran the auto scan with vcds and cleared the codes but nothing! I thought my soldering was bad 😏 But then I went to clear the codes individually and it worked! So my question to Clay is how long is this going to last now? I’m afraid to drive it and get stuck somewhere. The first time was on my driveway luckily. Sorry for being to long here.
That’s really awesome and I love your analogy on the Transformers thing that’s the way I heard it in my head to. I guess I never came across that scenario because I generally reset the codes. The very first one of them that I bought that had this problem I could reset it and then it may last a couple of days but after like four orfive times of resetting it it wouldn’t even last a day I would turn off the key and I would have to reset it before I could start it again. So the answer to your question is it will definitely leave you stranded and it probably will not take very long I’m sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I’m glad to hear you guys figured out God bless and have a great day thank you for the information I’m sure it will be very helpful to other folks in the future
You have to turn on the car so the solenoid unlocks first, then unplug the module while the steering column lock actuator is disengaged. Otherwise that last screw won't line up with the hole to get a bit to remove it.
Hi Clay after I removed the four Main bolts ,there is still something what holts the Steering Colum to the top can you give some advice the steering Colum is loose but is still somewhere connected -all electrical connectors are unplugged
Is it still connected to the steering shaft? There’s a bolt 👇 bolt down there. It could be possible that it’s held on by a clip of some sort. Or the jaws that are holding the steering column to the steering shaft could need to be separated I guess but I’ve never had to do that.
The ones with power tilt wheel are suspended differently- I just tore one apart at Pick your Part and shoved the wheel down to expose two t25 screws that are on top of the column. They look like you could access them with the instrument cluster removed. They are not at the back like in this video. What a pain in the ass. And that last t15 screw to the unit to release it from the lock mechanism- I was lucky enough to have it exposed in the unlocked position. But the rivet that holds it in after the two "one way" screws was another problem, so I just chiseled the tang that it was on. I may have to use my old case, but I think the two screws will be enough to hold it firmly (replaced with bolts).
Hey Robert yes you can but by time you buy the used steering column usually anywhere from 100 to 300 sometimes as much as $500. Then you pay anywhere from two to $400 to have it programmed it’s cheaper to send it to me and help me repair the Start control module.
I don’t put prices or personal information out over my RUclips channel. You can send me a personal message to Clays ac and Auto Repair on the Facebook messenger.
Ok I have done this change as per your Instructions as best a can. I am having problems with key recognition. Went through some solutions to no avail yet, any ideas?
@@sharpcarco well I went to start it out In the cold and no start no obd2 from ecu so I pull the brights +flasher and breaks and there it is. i read up on it and they say it happened more often I. The cold so I put a space heater on the floor In front of the drivers seat for a few hrs and it starts up no problem I move it back into the garage and replaced the relay and switches.
Problem was i had a hard time getting the module out and bent the lock slide metal a little before I got the screw out. I bent it back best I could but I dont think good enough and it struggled to engage then died. No bad fuse so im at a loss right now then the key issue just came out of the blue
@@sharpcarco Hi Clay, thanks for your videos, they are of great help. I have removed everything so far to remove my steering colum but after removing the 4 xzn screws at the base, something is still not allowing miy steering colum to drop. I can move it all over except down...LMAO Note. my steering colum is powered maybe you can help me out on this odd ball. Thanks John...
Well there may be a bolt that you need to remove out of the knuckle. But sometimes they just get sticky try pulling out on it. They definitely will slide off of the knuckle because nothing is holding it up inside the column but be very very careful not to turn the steering wheel 360° because you will mess up the steering angle so make sure you have it to where you can put it right back in once you’re done and do not spin it around obviously you can spin it more than 360° without damaging anything but it’s very important that you get it back to the location it was when you removed it. I’ve had people say this to me before and I think it’s one of them things that for me as a mechanic because I’m used to doing it I don’t notice the complication that some people are going through like you so the other recommendation that I could have is to reach your hand back there and see what is holding it up I hope that’s helpful sorry if it’s not
Hey I don’t work on cars at all. But I work w tools everyday I’m in construction. I dropped something small into the steering wheel part. I tried to adjust the sterling wheel to get it but it fell down in there. Looks like I would just have to pop the trim panel off to retrieve it right?
I take the whole steering column out because it’s easier but you can definitely take it off without taking the steering column mount but removing the steering column is super simple Don’t worry man if anyone else can do it you can do it to👍
Well if you take it to the dealership of course they want to change the whole steering column and most mechanics don’t understand the complexity of doing this work I repair them all the time for $350 .
Hi Clay.This is Frans, from Prague.I have an Audi A6 2005 that started to have the described problem.Everytime when I use the VAG COM software I can reset and it is working again.I ordered the correct switches and Relay from Ebay.I followed your (perfect) instructions and managed to replace the parts and mount everything together again.After resetting the codes the car was working.30 min later I tried again and the car was working.The motor the moves the disc and controls the switches makes a lot smoother and fresh noice, so I was happy.24 hours later the car has he same problem.Do you have any idea what else can be a problem?Thanks for your help.
No I don’t have any other suggestions but I will tell you this has never NOT worked. Unfortunately I would say more than likely one of your connections came loose. I would just recommend you disassemble it and check everything over and hopefully you just made a small mistake and are able to fix it because I can’t think of any other reason you would have the same problem sorry I wish I had better news for you.
cvl79 At first yes. Later the problem returned. I will try to replace the complete board. Maybe not only the switches are bad. But now it is cold, so it has wait a warmer day 😎
Frans Van der Ben. Well I don’t know what could’ve possibly happened I’ve done a couple dozen of these since making the video and I’ve never had anyone complain and on my personal automobile that has never happened.
Frans Van der Ben. I’m having the same problem but my worked for 3 days and stopped working. Luckily it was on my driveway! I changed the relay and switches, and now I’m going to change the little actuator motor and see what happens. I’m pretty sure my soldering connections are fine. I will take everything apart again this weekend. Let you know how it goes
The dealership can't sell just the start/access authorization module because it was never intended as a part that would need replacing. It is installed into the steering column with glue (like permatex), not screws. Then the micro switches will fail, so they will quote you a complete steering column replacement which is well over two grand. First thing I did was invest into a VCDS scan tool from RossTech. It's the same diagnostic tool and software that AUDI/VW uses, it's under 200 bucks incl. software and lifetime support in the RossTech forum. You can "wake up" the car by connecting the scanner, turning on the hazard lights, high beam and pushing the brake pedal. I carried my laptop and scan tool around in the car for a month to avoid getting stranded before I could get around to remove the column, remove the module and send it in for repair along with the keys which also need reprogramming. I didn't use this guy, though. Went through someone who is selling the service on ebay. Good luck!
It’ll be quicker if you reach out to me on Clays AC and auto repair On Facebook Is the steering column dropped down? There is only four bolts that hold the steering column up
MAJOR FYI: N.B. - You have to turn on the car so the steering lock actuator unlocks first, then unplug the module while the steering column lock actuator is disengaged. Otherwise that last screw won't line up with the hole to get a bit to remove it, you'll have to get the steering column back on the car and put the key in to have it disengage again, before unplugging it so it remains disengaged for removal.
First off you can’t do that if the lock actuator is not working correctly. Second you should start your own channel and show people how to do it. I was the first person in the world to do this procedure and make video of it I’m quite certain that I know just about every aspect of the situation and people send them to me from all over the country so I can rebuild them But I take a lot of time and energy and I don’t know if you mean it disrespectful but I would prefer you sell your wares somewhere else!!!!!!! I’m not trying to sound rude but it is unnecessary to try to get business from somebody else’s work thank you very much.
It is damn near identical there might be a couple of extra screws, but I’m pretty sure it’s almost identical. I’ve done it on all of them. I’ve never noticed a difference.
It is damn near identical there might be a couple of extra screws, but I’m pretty sure it’s almost identical. I’ve done it on all of them. I’ve never noticed a difference.
Sorry I don’t personally know I’ve never had anybody say they’ve had a problem with the 2012 but I have had issues with 2011’s so it’s certainly possible that the 2012 has the same problem
I have a 08 a6 3.2 the car was sitting for almost 2 years and the keys was lost purchase the key from the dealership and now I can't get any response from the ignition switch. It wont start or turn over and l get a slight flicker from the instrument cluster. To add the radio comes on but that's about it any suggestions? Also took it to audi to program the key and they said they can't get a reading from the odb port to program it. They want 500 dollars just for a diagnosis pls help if any one else had this issue
Man it sounds like you got a voltage problem first off and then probably other problems after that because of the length of time it’s been sitting I would probably be doing you an injustice by giving you too many things to chase and still not have the solution for you and your situation sorry I wish I could be of some help Joe
Well that could also be because the BEM is not programmed. If it has a brand new battery and you jumpstarted it and it started up then your BEM is probably not programmed
Great video. I have done this recently and sent actuator for repair. Reassembled now and just need to finish off a couple of things and clear faults.
Well, if you would’ve sent it to me, you wouldn’t need to clear the codes but good job
Clean and smooth. Perfect movie, thank you!
Thanks for the video, well demonstrated and liked the inspirational talk too! Very helpful, once again thanks!
You’re very welcome I greatly appreciate you taking the time to write that message that keeps me going
That was great just a quick question after unplugging the 2 wires on the control box panel under the steering wheel if you had a spare second hand box and plugged it in alongside the original control box would the car then start as the new control box was not damaged and faulty or are these control boxes coded to the car and will not work unless programmed thanks john .again
No it’s programmed in the chain
@@sharpcarco thank you again my idea just went out the window
This video was so informative Thank u ... we appreciate you... wish u were in atlanta
Hi thanks for the information and help.
I thought about it .. And if you just need the module then why break up the whole steering column?
See the module from below even before you dismantle the steering column, so you can't just disassemble the module?
I don’t disassembled the control module in this particular video but I do another videos that I made on this but I found that most of the time when people try to repair the control module themselves they end up destroying it and causing themselves a lot more money so I just recommend people send them to me I repair them and send them back to you without having to have them programmed
Thanks for the video! Should you disconnect the battery before doing this job because of the airbags?
I didn’t but it never hurts
I have a 2006 A6 3.2 and it sounds like the module under the steering column is working. After Hooking up the scanner and 'magic', the scanner shows kessy is good. Could it be a bad solenoid? If not, what could it be
Hi Clay, awesome job! One question, in my 2006 Audi A6 Avant 3.2, how do you get to the third screw (center) that is holding the module? In my case the screw is being blocked by a plate so I can’t get to it 🧐
Well I’m not 100% sure which one you’re talking about. And if I remember correctly you have to loosen something up to get to one of the screws I do these all the time but don’t really think about it any longer. I’m extremely sorry that I can’t be more detailed try moving the steering wheel a little bit maybe that will give you the access that you need I’m just totally not for sure without seeing it.
If you want to send me a picture to my Facebook page clays A/C and Auto Repair I probably can help you out a lot more
I figured it out already. Thank you so much for all your videos. I wish RUclips will let us attach pictures soon. Well, I had to drill carefully two holes to get access to the third small screw that holds the black plastic piece inside the module. I believe the black plastic piece holds the locking mechanism in the steering column of which makes a noise ( like a transformer from the movie) when it locks and unlocks. My problem was that I removed the steering column without unlocking it with Vcds so that’s why the third screw mentioned before didn’t line up with the small hole to be able to unscrew it. I have some pictures if someone encounters the same problem.
Today I put everything back on and I ran the auto scan with vcds and cleared the codes but nothing! I thought my soldering was bad 😏
But then I went to clear the codes individually and it worked! So my question to Clay is how long is this going to last now? I’m afraid to drive it and get stuck somewhere. The first time was on my driveway luckily.
Sorry for being to long here.
That’s really awesome and I love your analogy on the Transformers thing that’s the way I heard it in my head to. I guess I never came across that scenario because I generally reset the codes.
The very first one of them that I bought that had this problem I could reset it and then it may last a couple of days but after like four orfive times of resetting it it wouldn’t even last a day I would turn off the key and I would have to reset it before I could start it again. So the answer to your question is it will definitely leave you stranded and it probably will not take very long I’m sorry to be the bearer of bad news. I’m glad to hear you guys figured out God bless and have a great day thank you for the information I’m sure it will be very helpful to other folks in the future
You have to turn on the car so the solenoid unlocks first, then unplug the module while the steering column lock actuator is disengaged. Otherwise that last screw won't line up with the hole to get a bit to remove it.
Great video thanks
You’re really welcome Justin I appreciate you taking the time to write the message and welcome to the channel
Hi Clay after I removed the four Main bolts ,there is still something what holts the Steering Colum to the top can you give some advice the steering Colum is loose but is still somewhere connected -all electrical connectors are unplugged
Is it still connected to the steering shaft? There’s a bolt 👇 bolt down there. It could be possible that it’s held on by a clip of some sort. Or the jaws that are holding the steering column to the steering shaft could need to be separated I guess but I’ve never had to do that.
The ones with power tilt wheel are suspended differently- I just tore one apart at Pick your Part and shoved the wheel down to expose two t25 screws that are on top of the column. They look like you could access them with the instrument cluster removed. They are not at the back like in this video. What a pain in the ass.
And that last t15 screw to the unit to release it from the lock mechanism- I was lucky enough to have it exposed in the unlocked position.
But the rivet that holds it in after the two "one way" screws was another problem, so I just chiseled the tang that it was on. I may have to use my old case, but I think the two screws will be enough to hold it firmly (replaced with bolts).
Hey clay way so if I purchase a used steering column can I install it and get it programmed to my car
Hey Robert yes you can but by time you buy the used steering column usually anywhere from 100 to 300 sometimes as much as $500.
Then you pay anywhere from two to $400 to have it programmed it’s cheaper to send it to me and help me repair the Start control module.
Hey clay way how much do you usually charge
I don’t put prices or personal information out over my RUclips channel.
You can send me a personal message to Clays ac and Auto Repair on the Facebook messenger.
The Clay Way ok will do
Hey clay I’m in atlanta where would I be able to get the column programmed to my car after installation.. besides the Audi dealer?
Ok I have done this change as per your Instructions as best a can. I am having problems with key recognition. Went through some solutions to no avail yet, any ideas?
Key recognition say before you did the work?
@@sharpcarco yes it worked fine before now the key flashes when the button is pushed
L Bailor83 Well the reason for that is because more than likely you’re Start control module was not bad
@@sharpcarco well I went to start it out In the cold and no start no obd2 from ecu so I pull the brights +flasher and breaks and there it is. i read up on it and they say it happened more often I. The cold so I put a space heater on the floor In front of the drivers seat for a few hrs and it starts up no problem I move it back into the garage and replaced the relay and switches.
Problem was i had a hard time getting the module out and bent the lock slide metal a little before I got the screw out. I bent it back best I could but I dont think good enough and it struggled to engage then died. No bad fuse so im at a loss right now then the key issue just came out of the blue
Do I need to disconnect the battery before the electrical connectors are removed?
I didn’t but whatever you want
All good then, thank you and keep up the good work. 👍🏿
I certainly try they’re not always perfect but I do the best I can
@@sharpcarco Hi Clay, thanks for your videos, they are of great help. I have removed everything so far to remove my steering colum but
after removing the 4 xzn screws at the base, something is still not allowing miy steering colum to drop. I can move it all over except down...LMAO
Note. my steering colum is powered maybe you can help me out on this odd ball. Thanks John...
Well there may be a bolt that you need to remove out of the knuckle. But sometimes they just get sticky try pulling out on it. They definitely will slide off of the knuckle because nothing is holding it up inside the column but be very very careful not to turn the steering wheel 360° because you will mess up the steering angle so make sure you have it to where you can put it right back in once you’re done and do not spin it around obviously you can spin it more than 360° without damaging anything but it’s very important that you get it back to the location it was when you removed it. I’ve had people say this to me before and I think it’s one of them things that for me as a mechanic because I’m used to doing it I don’t notice the complication that some people are going through like you so the other recommendation that I could have is to reach your hand back there and see what is holding it up I hope that’s helpful sorry if it’s not
Hey I don’t work on cars at all. But I work w tools everyday I’m in construction. I dropped something small into the steering wheel part. I tried to adjust the sterling wheel to get it but it fell down in there. Looks like I would just have to pop the trim panel off to retrieve it right?
Yeah that would be my best guess
great info thanks
Hi Clay, so there is no way to remove the start access module without taking out the whole steering wheel?
I take the whole steering column out because it’s easier but you can definitely take it off without taking the steering column mount but removing the steering column is super simple
Don’t worry man if anyone else can do it you can do it to👍
@@sharpcarco Any video on only that part being removed without removing the whole steering wheel?
If so I have found a use one and is it possible for me to buy a use to work with my car without recoding it? I'm new to the audi world brother.
Well if you take it to the dealership of course they want to change the whole steering column and most mechanics don’t understand the complexity of doing this work
I repair them all the time for $350 .
@@sharpcarco how can I get it to you?
You can look me up on Facebook under clays ac and auto repair. And send me a DM I will give you my contact information
Hi Clay.This is Frans, from Prague.I have an Audi A6 2005 that started to have the described problem.Everytime when I use the VAG COM software I can reset and it is working again.I ordered the correct switches and Relay from Ebay.I followed your (perfect) instructions and managed to replace the parts and mount everything together again.After resetting the codes the car was working.30 min later I tried again and the car was working.The motor the moves the disc and controls the switches makes a lot smoother and fresh noice, so I was happy.24 hours later the car has he same problem.Do you have any idea what else can be a problem?Thanks for your help.
No I don’t have any other suggestions but I will tell you this has never NOT worked. Unfortunately I would say more than likely one of your connections came loose. I would just recommend you disassemble it and check everything over and hopefully you just made a small mistake and are able to fix it because I can’t think of any other reason you would have the same problem sorry I wish I had better news for you.
Frans Van der Ben Did you get it to work?
cvl79 At first yes. Later the problem returned. I will try to replace the complete board. Maybe not only the switches are bad. But now it is cold, so it has wait a warmer day 😎
Frans Van der Ben. Well I don’t know what could’ve possibly happened I’ve done a couple dozen of these since making the video and I’ve never had anyone complain and on my personal automobile that has never happened.
Frans Van der Ben. I’m having the same problem but my worked for 3 days and stopped working. Luckily it was on my driveway! I changed the relay and switches, and now I’m going to change the little actuator motor and see what happens.
I’m pretty sure my soldering connections are fine. I will take everything apart again this weekend. Let you know how it goes
You in NYC? Need you to get this done for me
I was told by my dealership that I have to replace the entire steering column for the J518 module. So is that correct sir? He said it's all one piece.
The dealership can't sell just the start/access authorization module because it was never intended as a part that would need replacing. It is installed into the steering column with glue (like permatex), not screws. Then the micro switches will fail, so they will quote you a complete steering column replacement which is well over two grand.
First thing I did was invest into a VCDS scan tool from RossTech. It's the same diagnostic tool and software that AUDI/VW uses, it's under 200 bucks incl. software and lifetime support in the RossTech forum.
You can "wake up" the car by connecting the scanner, turning on the hazard lights, high beam and pushing the brake pedal. I carried my laptop and scan tool around in the car for a month to avoid getting stranded before I could get around to remove the column, remove the module and send it in for repair along with the keys which also need reprogramming. I didn't use this guy, though. Went through someone who is selling the service on ebay. Good luck!
Well that’s pretty much the same thing I tell them in the video.... Thank you for helping
I removed all the screws but I can not remove it ... any suggestions?
It’ll be quicker if you reach out to me on Clays AC and auto repair On Facebook
Is the steering column dropped down? There is only four bolts that hold the steering column up
@@sharpcarco I remove 4 bolts ... no it's not dropped down
MAJOR FYI: N.B. - You have to turn on the car so the steering lock actuator unlocks first, then unplug the module while the steering column lock actuator is disengaged. Otherwise that last screw won't line up with the hole to get a bit to remove it, you'll have to get the steering column back on the car and put the key in to have it disengage again, before unplugging it so it remains disengaged for removal.
First off you can’t do that if the lock actuator is not working correctly. Second you should start your own channel and show people how to do it.
I was the first person in the world to do this procedure and make video of it I’m quite certain that I know just about every aspect of the situation and people send them to me from all over the country so I can rebuild them
But I take a lot of time and energy and I don’t know if you mean it disrespectful but I would prefer you sell your wares somewhere else!!!!!!! I’m not trying to sound rude but it is unnecessary to try to get business from somebody else’s work thank you very much.
How can I contact you sir? I have similar problem with my car
You can look me up on clays ac and Auto Repair on Facebook and send me a DM or you can email me
Thenewclayway@gmail.Com
How to remove a steering column that is power adjusting?
It is damn near identical there might be a couple of extra screws, but I’m pretty sure it’s almost identical. I’ve done it on all of them. I’ve never noticed a difference.
It is damn near identical there might be a couple of extra screws, but I’m pretty sure it’s almost identical. I’ve done it on all of them. I’ve never noticed a difference.
Ustedes venden los switch j518???
That XZN bolt is referred to as a triple square set
I don’t know if you mean it disrespectful but I would prefer you sell your wares somewhere else!!!!!! lol
Any one knows if the starting module is the same for a 2012 S5
Sorry I don’t personally know I’ve never had anybody say they’ve had a problem with the 2012 but I have had issues with 2011’s so it’s certainly possible that the 2012 has the same problem
I have a 08 a6 3.2 the car was sitting for almost 2 years and the keys was lost purchase the key from the dealership and now I can't get any response from the ignition switch. It wont start or turn over and l get a slight flicker from the instrument cluster. To add the radio comes on but that's about it any suggestions? Also took it to audi to program the key and they said they can't get a reading from the odb port to program it. They want 500 dollars just for a diagnosis pls help if any one else had this issue
Man it sounds like you got a voltage problem first off and then probably other problems after that because of the length of time it’s been sitting I would probably be doing you an injustice by giving you too many things to chase and still not have the solution for you and your situation sorry I wish I could be of some help Joe
its annoying cause my a6 avant has a new battery yet it was completely flat when i tried to start the car 2 weeks later
Well that could also be because the BEM is not programmed. If it has a brand new battery and you jumpstarted it and it started up then your BEM is probably not programmed
The Clay Way it was working fine thats the thing
@@sharpcarco BEM???
Jeez cut your finger nails dude