I live in Michigan and have a small machine shop. I finally heated it with Nat Gas and decided to wall with OSB. Glad I did. I agree with your reasoning. Now I have to decide on a ceiling after two winters out there. I insulated the walls with 13 and the ceiling with 38. What's cool (no pun intended) is the shop stays cool in the summer now without AC. Plus almost zero humidity if you keep the doors closed. I'm thinking 3/8 rock up top painted white.
It needs a good sanding to get rid of the free advertising then a good clear coat, stain or french burn. Some french cleats, peg board and surround sound with 600 watt bass speaker.
I put 7/16 inch OSB up in my workshop out back. Surprisingly, my stud finder can still locate stud through it. I was a little surprised. Plus, I can easily find where they are just by looking for the nails.
Thank you so much. I have been trying to figure out for months the best way to finish a garage Im renting out of because Im absolutely tired of looking at the insulation! I appreciate you so.
Hi from the UK, i have just started doing this in my garage using 11mm thick OSB, I like you do like the plane look of the OSB what I have done is use counter sunk machine screws and used threaded inserts for the same reason incase I need to get behind to add a nogging or two for extra support for weight. Nice video
Wanting a very inexpensive option & having wondered about putting this in my garage (2/3 unfinished), I'm thrilled to see it done, and to have your experienced opinion. I know nothing about nothing re: building & woodwork, but this seems pretty straight fwd. Thank you!
I only use two gang receptacles for an extra few bucks you save the wire multisnakes. Also amazon has multitasker box blades which cut all four sides one and two gang boxes. We are going big bucks for trusscore in apartments. Expensive on the truck way less on the wall with decades of no paint.
I agree, it looks prettier done like that. It's also a major structural advantage where needed. This didn't require any additional structural support, nor did it need to look pretty.
I was going to ship lap my garage ( man space) , but it is expensive, I may go with chip board or plywood now and run a chair rail 1x4 at the horizontal joints 😊
OSB is a great choice for your application. It is durable, resists dings, and provides solid backing for anchors. Drywall is a less expensive alternative, but it dings easily and could absorb moisture if installed too close to the floor. Moisture Resistant drywall on the lower course would provide some moisture protection. I like drywall because when painted, it is very bright. That becomes more important to me as I get older and require more light to work indoors. In my opinion, metal roofing/siding is a poor choice, because it could trap moisture in the wall cavity and not allow the wall to dry out because you already have an impervious barrier on the outside. One option you did not discuss is a combination of these materials.For instance, OSB could be used on the lower 4 or 8 feet, with drywall above. This puts the durable material where it is more likely to get dinged, with the cheaper alternative above. One could paint the lower course a darker color to conceal dirt/finger prints, with a brighter color above to help with light reflection. One last suggestion; stagger your joints. Breaking sheets on the same stud screams DIYer. You did a great job with your installation but stacking joints puts you in the same class as so many other weekend warriors. Your attention to detail tells me you're a step above that.
For drywall, I would agree to stagger the joints. For OSB, it serves no practical purpose when the exterior of the building is clad in metal siding. No additional wall strength is needed.
Hopefully your still looking at comments...anyway, I hv 30x40 pb, I'm working on. Woodstove in corner. I'm using 36 in wainscoting around the bottom. I came across some 1/4 inch pegboard I'm using on an endwall that will cabinets/ shelves etc. I'm going with 1/2 drywall above that. Osb is pushing 20 bucks a sheet and going up with no end in sight. I hv used pb insulation for walls and attic 9 in thick. So with this. I'll hv to put up vapor barrier over insulation first. Got lost here. But another option is pegboard, if you watch the weight your hanging in wall
I thought of that before I started, but couldn't find a practical reason to do it. With the outside of the walls clad in metal, I don't think the walls would need to get any stiffer.
I am leaning towards doing this to my detached single car garage as well and I was wondering if I need to do anything with the seams. I would have to tape and bed the seams for drywall, is there an equivalent process that is needed with OSB to close up the seams? Thanks.
In my opinion, OSB is probably for those that don't care about the seams. I'm not saying you couldn't mud and tape them, but the rest of the board that isn't mud and taped wouldn't match the texture of the finished areas.
@@Challenged1 we 💕 be in Alaska, and my friend used OSB to floor her cabin. It off- gassed for several years. It was painted to try and help, but to no avail. Her only options was to take it up, or sell the cabin. She sold. My friend had experienced lung damage from diesel fuel working as a tug boat captain in Valdez. That could have made her over-sensitive to it. Also, she purchased the OSB over twenty years ago, so maybe things have changed.
Idk what to do I'm living in a garage got some old insulation from a bld being torn down then I have plastic over that I have a small piece of panel behind my bed it is covered in mold I don't have no help and can't afford to pay someone and I might be able to buy 1 piece of wood a month so far that hasn't worked out any suggestions anybody it gets very cold in winter time I use kerosene heater and electric heater and electric blankets I have time on the both sides but none in the front or back
Who assembled the building with the vertical post 180° off causing them to sit 3’ inside your walls. That would drive me crazy enough that I would spend the time to fix it
I did. I bought the trusses from chicken house that was being torn down. They were originally designed with an angled vertical section attached directly to concrete on the ground with angled canvas walls. To get the height that I needed and have straight walls, pillars were placed at the base of the trusses, and walls were placed vertically inline with the outermost point (top) of the truss. Hindsight, I should have just bought new trusses with straight legs. Sometimes, you just work with what you have.
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I live in Michigan and have a small machine shop. I finally heated it with Nat Gas and decided to wall with OSB. Glad I did. I agree with your reasoning. Now I have to decide on a ceiling after two winters out there. I insulated the walls with 13 and the ceiling with 38. What's cool (no pun intended) is the shop stays cool in the summer now without AC. Plus almost zero humidity if you keep the doors closed. I'm thinking 3/8 rock up top painted white.
It needs a good sanding to get rid of the free advertising then a good clear coat, stain or french burn. Some french cleats, peg board and surround sound with 600 watt bass speaker.
I like your thinking!!
I put 7/16 inch OSB up in my workshop out back. Surprisingly, my stud finder can still locate stud through it. I was a little surprised. Plus, I can easily find where they are just by looking for the nails.
Whatever you use you should have raised it at least a quarter to a half inch off the floor so it wouldn't wick any water off of the concrete.
We placed spacers at the bottom to move it up before screwing.
@@Challenged1 👍
How much did it cost for all the osb boards
Thank you so much. I have been trying to figure out for months the best way to finish a garage Im renting out of because Im absolutely tired of looking at the insulation! I appreciate you so.
Loved this video.....this is what is going to happen to my garage.
Hi from the UK, i have just started doing this in my garage using 11mm thick OSB, I like you do like the plane look of the OSB what I have done is use counter sunk machine screws and used threaded inserts for the same reason incase I need to get behind to add a nogging or two for extra support for weight. Nice video
Thanks for the comment, and good luck with your project!!!
Wanting a very inexpensive option & having wondered about putting this in my garage (2/3 unfinished), I'm thrilled to see it done, and to have your experienced opinion. I know nothing about nothing re: building & woodwork, but this seems pretty straight fwd. Thank you!
I only use two gang receptacles for an extra few bucks you save the wire multisnakes. Also amazon has multitasker box blades which cut all four sides one and two gang boxes. We are going big bucks for trusscore in apartments. Expensive on the truck way less on the wall with decades of no paint.
Still good practice to cut second sheet up in half and stagger the joints or go vertical with sheets assuming standard framing.
I agree, it looks prettier done like that. It's also a major structural advantage where needed. This didn't require any additional structural support, nor did it need to look pretty.
@@Challenged1 please explain that method because I'm a rookie
I put peg boards on my shop walls. Super cheap, easy to install, huge utility value.
I too have some areas with peg board as well. It's very handy!!!
Super cheap? Try 50 bucks for a 4x8 sheet...I need your money
Thanks for this video! I may go with OSB for some of the remaining portions of my shop walls after seeing this.
I sure like it!
my God, that is a gorgeous wall
I was going to ship lap my garage ( man space) , but it is expensive, I may go with chip board or plywood now and run a chair rail 1x4 at the horizontal joints 😊
Hi Buddy, maybe a daft question but do you put the OSB to the floor or leave a gap? (Thinking of damp).
I put a scrap piece of osb under it when I was hanging the board that spaced it up 1/2".
@Challenged1 thank youuuuu!
Good choice. I'd paint it for a cleaner look.
You're still going to see the texture under the paint. Might as well leave it unpainted
OSB is a great choice for your application. It is durable, resists dings, and provides solid backing for anchors. Drywall is a less expensive alternative, but it dings easily and could absorb moisture if installed too close to the floor. Moisture Resistant drywall on the lower course would provide some moisture protection. I like drywall because when painted, it is very bright. That becomes more important to me as I get older and require more light to work indoors. In my opinion, metal roofing/siding is a poor choice, because it could trap moisture in the wall cavity and not allow the wall to dry out because you already have an impervious barrier on the outside.
One option you did not discuss is a combination of these materials.For instance, OSB could be used on the lower 4 or 8 feet, with drywall above. This puts the durable material where it is more likely to get dinged, with the cheaper alternative above. One could paint the lower course a darker color to conceal dirt/finger prints, with a brighter color above to help with light reflection.
One last suggestion; stagger your joints. Breaking sheets on the same stud screams DIYer. You did a great job with your installation but stacking joints puts you in the same class as so many other weekend warriors. Your attention to detail tells me you're a step above that.
For drywall, I would agree to stagger the joints. For OSB, it serves no practical purpose when the exterior of the building is clad in metal siding. No additional wall strength is needed.
@@Challenged1 All the best to you and your channel.
@@rolandpinette9946 Thanks Roland, and thank you for the comment
Hopefully your still looking at comments...anyway, I hv 30x40 pb, I'm working on. Woodstove in corner. I'm using 36 in wainscoting around the bottom. I came across some 1/4 inch pegboard I'm using on an endwall that will cabinets/ shelves etc. I'm going with 1/2 drywall above that. Osb is pushing 20 bucks a sheet and going up with no end in sight. I hv used pb insulation for walls and attic 9 in thick.
So with this. I'll hv to put up vapor barrier over insulation first. Got lost here. But another option is pegboard, if you watch the weight your hanging in wall
That's why you don't put drywall in contact with floor - EVER! Even OSB will wick water!
I use 7/16 OSB in the general shop area. I use 5/8 drywall in the welding room.
Excellent idea
I may have missed this, but what were the cost comparisons for sheetrock, metal, and OSB?
Not a big deal, but I would stagger the joints to add a little more stiffness to the wall.
I thought of that before I started, but couldn't find a practical reason to do it. With the outside of the walls clad in metal, I don't think the walls would need to get any stiffer.
I just took all the osb off my walls. I need the lighting benefits of a painted surface and I just can't abide painted osb.
Fire rating of the OSB vs the Drywall??😳
Lol
OSB for the win.
But when you paint it,looks like crap.
Sheet metal is expensive, but maybe add a 4" strip of sheet metal along the bottom so mice don't chew thru the OSB?
You sure could. I haven't had any problems with mice chewing through the OSB though.
I am leaning towards doing this to my detached single car garage as well and I was wondering if I need to do anything with the seams. I would have to tape and bed the seams for drywall, is there an equivalent process that is needed with OSB to close up the seams? Thanks.
In my opinion, OSB is probably for those that don't care about the seams. I'm not saying you couldn't mud and tape them, but the rest of the board that isn't mud and taped wouldn't match the texture of the finished areas.
Did u leave a gap in between the osb for expansion or no?
Very little
Not staggering seams?
No need
Mannn, Thank you!! 💯💪🏾💪🏾
I think osb is warmer and quieter the steel also
Definitely
What about off- gasing from the OSB?
I've never experienced off-gassing from OSB
@@Challenged1 we 💕 be in Alaska, and my friend used OSB to floor her cabin. It off- gassed for several years. It was painted to try and help, but to no avail. Her only options was to take it up, or sell the cabin. She sold. My friend had experienced lung damage from diesel fuel working as a tug boat captain in Valdez. That could have made her over-sensitive to it. Also, she purchased the OSB over twenty years ago, so maybe things have changed.
Idk what to do I'm living in a garage got some old insulation from a bld being torn down then I have plastic over that I have a small piece of panel behind my bed it is covered in mold I don't have no help and can't afford to pay someone and I might be able to buy 1 piece of wood a month so far that hasn't worked out any suggestions anybody it gets very cold in winter time I use kerosene heater and electric heater and electric blankets I have time on the both sides but none in the front or back
I wonder if you an get osb without writing all over it.
Yea I hate that too
OSB = $30. A sheet in my area of Northern California.
In Kansas right now, it's $12.66
@@Challenged1 16 a sheet NW Ohio
For 1/2”?
Who assembled the building with the vertical post 180° off causing them to sit 3’ inside your walls.
That would drive me crazy enough that I would spend the time to fix it
I did. I bought the trusses from chicken house that was being torn down. They were originally designed with an angled vertical section attached directly to concrete on the ground with angled canvas walls. To get the height that I needed and have straight walls, pillars were placed at the base of the trusses, and walls were placed vertically inline with the outermost point (top) of the truss. Hindsight, I should have just bought new trusses with straight legs. Sometimes, you just work with what you have.
what did you use for the insulation? Is that the cheapest option?
I used normal fiberglass insulation. Yes, it was the cheapest option I could find.
3/8 plywood would look better
Built to burn.