Been using this all summer. Everything came out as intended. Used it for Fomapan 100 & 200, Ilford HP5, Kodak Tmax 400 35mm and 120. Tip: If you're doing a large batch of different film, do the T-grain ones first. If you do them as your 10th roll, you need to agitate until your arms fall off.
I'm sure you could find something to rotate that tank for you. £d print something find something meant for something else that will do this job, like a kid's toy for example. Think outside the box. There will be something out there that will rotate that tank for you.
Fyi for most of us, this 70 degrees is way to hot, like a coffee hot!, what he is saying is 20 degrees C +/- 2 degree (what Ilford recommends for their HP5+) aka close to ROOM TEMPERATURE, if this makes things clearer.
the powder kits are great! complete noob here, got both one stop b&w and color c41 kit, developed 35 and 8x11 film, excellent. Very easy to mix and use. also got a jobo1510 to replace my current tank which is a glass jar wrapped with black duct tape...
Way cool. This is new to me. Can I use in the rotary constant agitation & if so, how is time adjusted? 16 rolls based on what size? Single 135 in a 1510 vs single 120 in the 2509n ? I use 140-170ml
Badly want the duo kit. Like bad bad. That sous warmer is ideal. I just wish I could buy extra accordion bottles. Also you guys fixed the monobath development mystery. Ive noticed there were mixed reviews with the mono bath solution. Tell me how would i push or pull a stop with the mono bath?
Thanks for your comments! If you're looking for extra accordion bottles, you can purchase them on our site here: cinestillfilm.com/products/tcs-temp-collapsible-air-reduction-accordion-storage-bottle?_pos=1&_sid=be708cc14&_ss=r Also, we plan to make a video talking in depth about pushing and pulling film soon! Stay tuned to our channel to see the video when it releases.
Hey Linus! This video is awesome! Thanks for making it so clear and easy! However I have one question that I haven't been able to find an aswer. I have a bunch of Fujifilm Neopan Acros II 100 and haven't found any info, neither in the pdf. Hope you can help! Cheers!
Hi! Unfortunately we haven't tested that stock yet but here's an article that may be helpful in determining processing times: help.cinestillfilm.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025487772-How-Can-I-Test-Unfamiliar-Film-Stocks-with-Df96
Wetting agents can sometimes help if you are experiencing water spots from your water source. Here at CineStill HQ we prefer to use distilled water. We recorded a video on the subject that you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/GPVVxJUbUrM/видео.html&ab_channel=CineStillFilm
You can use any thermometer to check the temperature in the bottle! Df96 is intended for use at any room temperature, like we say in the video. The temperature should match the temperature of the room that the chemicals are stored in.
Hey there! Photoflo is an optional chemical that can help reduce the likelihood of water spots on your film. For an in-depth exploration of film washing and water spot prevention, check out the video we made: ruclips.net/video/GPVVxJUbUrM/видео.html
Does the monobath have an expiration date? i have some laying around at home, but i havent used it for about half a year now. But great videoes! looking forward to see more.
Since Cinestill chose not to reply to what might be a sensitive issue for them re this product, here's the answer. Yes. it has a shelf life. I'm not sure what that is for an unopened bottle, but if more than 6 months, I'd test drive a newly opened bottle which has been sitting around with film I won't miss. Once opened, used or not, this has an expiration of 2 months, which Cinestill makes quite clear. To get full usage, you need to plan to process at least two rolls a week. Do not plan to process a few rolls, then sit on the opened bottle for 8 weeks, then rush through another 12-14 rolls. You will be terribly unhappy. While d96 monobath is convenient, and the quality of its results seems good, it is an expensive solution to B&W development at around $1.40 per roll if you get perfect usage of a bottle, and higher cost if you loose some capacity to expiration. Also, since it is "one size fits all" process, you cannot use the "pull" or "push" development controls available with a conventional developer.
It looks like Orca goes through semi-normal development times with other developers so it is likely a true 100 speed film. This means it will be normal processing time, temp and agitation!
Our DF96 is a monobath, where the developer, stop-bath and fixer are all in one solution. All you need to do is wash the film after using the Df96 for processing. Our monobath delivers results on par with the traditional 3-bath B&W process and is an accessible way to help someone get into B&W processing at home, without needing to be intimidated by some of the more traditional methods.
yes! you can do 120 or 35mm with this kit, because the JOBO 1510 works with both and has an adjustable reel :) we talk more about how to load this tank in our Loading Reels video: ruclips.net/video/MQKphVV4wuA/видео.html
You totally skip a very important part of the process. You mention the dark bag and that you need to get the film into the tank in complete darkness but it's JUST mentioned. How do you do that? How do I get the film when it's on the 35mm reel into the tank and then pour in the fluid and get the lid on without light contamination. Is that whole bunch of steps in complete darkness?
Getting the film on the reel just takes some practice and learning to feel it out. When you get it in properly, you'll know. then you just twist the reel and it kinda feeds itself in. As far as adding liquid, there's two "lids" on those containers. The actual lid and the one in-between (inside the container.) Once you've spooled the film up, place it inside the container and place the internal lid over it. (Make sure it clicks into place when you turn it. That way you know it won't fall out.) This middle lid protects the film from light. At that point you can do the rest in light. It stops light but allows liquid through. From there do whatever steps you have to based on your stock. Hope that helps.
i like how the video was as simple as the process. No unnecessary fluff to make the video longer 👏
It's nice to watch a video that doesn't even mention Squarespace once!
Do you watch videos on the Skillshare channel and comment "It's nice to watch a video that doesn't even mention Nord VPN once!" ?
It’s nice to not hear about any money hungry company.
I almost didn't click this because a 2 minute video to explain how to develop film seems impossible. But I love that this is an all in one solution.
Been using this all summer. Everything came out as intended. Used it for Fomapan 100 & 200, Ilford HP5, Kodak Tmax 400 35mm and 120. Tip: If you're doing a large batch of different film, do the T-grain ones first. If you do them as your 10th roll, you need to agitate until your arms fall off.
I'm sure you could find something to rotate that tank for you. £d print something find something meant for something else that will do this job, like a kid's toy for example. Think outside the box. There will be something out there that will rotate that tank for you.
WE SNAPPPPPED
Hey Linus you're perfect for this series. Appreciate you.
That was smooth! Shelf life would be interesting to know. Also would be cool to know if your degrees are°C or °F. aren't you Willem's roommate? 😀
That's true!!
I seem to remember 6 months being use by
For colour kits, mono bath should be longer?
ruclips.net/video/tn0VBt1h-1k/видео.html
He talks about it in last minutes.
This Chanel is a godsend fr
Awesome - loving the focus on new shooters. The more people we can get into this medium the better!
Fyi for most of us, this 70 degrees is way to hot, like a coffee hot!, what he is saying is 20 degrees C +/- 2 degree (what Ilford recommends for their HP5+) aka close to ROOM TEMPERATURE, if this makes things clearer.
Any plans to sell these kits in Europe? Shipping from the US is quite prohibitive on your site, atm.
working on it :)
the powder kits are great! complete noob here, got both one stop b&w and color c41 kit, developed 35 and 8x11 film, excellent. Very easy to mix and use. also got a jobo1510 to replace my current tank which is a glass jar wrapped with black duct tape...
It's just a guide of the monobath right?
You think someone can actually load the film properly after watching this?
only this? this is easier than I thought
so smooth! thanks for another enjoyable 3min!
Way cool. This is new to me. Can I use in the rotary constant agitation & if so, how is time adjusted?
16 rolls based on what size? Single 135 in a 1510 vs single 120 in the 2509n ? I use 140-170ml
Thanks for the info
Badly want the duo kit. Like bad bad. That sous warmer is ideal. I just wish I could buy extra accordion bottles. Also you guys fixed the monobath development mystery. Ive noticed there were mixed reviews with the mono bath solution. Tell me how would i push or pull a stop with the mono bath?
Thanks for your comments! If you're looking for extra accordion bottles, you can purchase them on our site here: cinestillfilm.com/products/tcs-temp-collapsible-air-reduction-accordion-storage-bottle?_pos=1&_sid=be708cc14&_ss=r
Also, we plan to make a video talking in depth about pushing and pulling film soon! Stay tuned to our channel to see the video when it releases.
Steve cameo!
Loading the film onto the reel is something you’re going to have to practice many times with a spent roll of film.
Sick tank-grab
Hey Linus! This video is awesome! Thanks for making it so clear and easy! However I have one question that I haven't been able to find an aswer. I have a bunch of Fujifilm Neopan Acros II 100 and haven't found any info, neither in the pdf. Hope you can help! Cheers!
Hi! Unfortunately we haven't tested that stock yet but here's an article that may be helpful in determining processing times: help.cinestillfilm.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025487772-How-Can-I-Test-Unfamiliar-Film-Stocks-with-Df96
Any other videos that show how to actually load the film on the reel? Or how to pull it out from its roll?
When you add the +15 seconds for each roll of film, do you add it to the agitation time? Does the agitation time always stay the same?
is there a video like this on your site that shows proper use of your D96 and f96 powders together for b&w film processing?
Would love to see how to meter in different scenarios with/without a light meter :)
Would you guys do a video on developing roll film? Like removing the back and all that.
That’s it?! 🤯
I LOVE THIS THANK YOU💖💖
Now we need to show how to develop 800T
I would like to see something about color developing.
Isn't a Wetting Agent necessary at the end?
Wetting agents can sometimes help if you are experiencing water spots from your water source. Here at CineStill HQ we prefer to use distilled water. We recorded a video on the subject that you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/GPVVxJUbUrM/видео.html&ab_channel=CineStillFilm
I find my bw negatives always not fixed properly and have wired contrast when developing with the monobath
And If I pushed or pulled my b&w film????
How do you know the exact temerature of the monobath?
You can use any thermometer to check the temperature in the bottle! Df96 is intended for use at any room temperature, like we say in the video. The temperature should match the temperature of the room that the chemicals are stored in.
Do you need to use stabilizer at the end for older film?
Is there a kit for 120?
Do you need photoflo at end ?
Hey there! Photoflo is an optional chemical that can help reduce the likelihood of water spots on your film. For an in-depth exploration of film washing and water spot prevention, check out the video we made: ruclips.net/video/GPVVxJUbUrM/видео.html
Hey?!... What about coffee and lemon juice!! ☕🍋
Does the monobath have an expiration date? i have some laying around at home, but i havent used it for about half a year now.
But great videoes! looking forward to see more.
Since Cinestill chose not to reply to what might be a sensitive issue for them re this product, here's the answer. Yes. it has a shelf life. I'm not sure what that is for an unopened bottle, but if more than 6 months, I'd test drive a newly opened bottle which has been sitting around with film I won't miss. Once opened, used or not, this has an expiration of 2 months, which Cinestill makes quite clear. To get full usage, you need to plan to process at least two rolls a week. Do not plan to process a few rolls, then sit on the opened bottle for 8 weeks, then rush through another 12-14 rolls. You will be terribly unhappy. While d96 monobath is convenient, and the quality of its results seems good, it is an expensive solution to B&W development at around $1.40 per roll if you get perfect usage of a bottle, and higher cost if you loose some capacity to expiration. Also, since it is "one size fits all" process, you cannot use the "pull" or "push" development controls available with a conventional developer.
I like this developer but there are no recommended times for lomography 110 orca bw
It looks like Orca goes through semi-normal development times with other developers so it is likely a true 100 speed film. This means it will be normal processing time, temp and agitation!
Where is the stop bath and fixer? Film shooters who have developed traditionally how does this hold up?
Our DF96 is a monobath, where the developer, stop-bath and fixer are all in one solution. All you need to do is wash the film after using the Df96 for processing. Our monobath delivers results on par with the traditional 3-bath B&W process and is an accessible way to help someone get into B&W processing at home, without needing to be intimidated by some of the more traditional methods.
Photo flow at the end.
I was going to ask how make takes it took to shoot 0:19 but then I saw the ending 😂
can you do 120 film with the starter kit?
yes! you can do 120 or 35mm with this kit, because the JOBO 1510 works with both and has an adjustable reel :) we talk more about how to load this tank in our Loading Reels video: ruclips.net/video/MQKphVV4wuA/видео.html
Just saw this is disposal a problem in privet septic system great fun nice that a new young group 😎
You totally skip a very important part of the process. You mention the dark bag and that you need to get the film into the tank in complete darkness but it's JUST mentioned. How do you do that? How do I get the film when it's on the 35mm reel into the tank and then pour in the fluid and get the lid on without light contamination. Is that whole bunch of steps in complete darkness?
Getting the film on the reel just takes some practice and learning to feel it out. When you get it in properly, you'll know. then you just twist the reel and it kinda feeds itself in. As far as adding liquid, there's two "lids" on those containers. The actual lid and the one in-between (inside the container.) Once you've spooled the film up, place it inside the container and place the internal lid over it. (Make sure it clicks into place when you turn it. That way you know it won't fall out.) This middle lid protects the film from light. At that point you can do the rest in light. It stops light but allows liquid through. From there do whatever steps you have to based on your stock. Hope that helps.
@@Eaton. thanks for that.
Curious to what happens if i put color film in it lol
92.82 USD to ship a small box to New Zealand is ridiculous!
What about celcius…. You know, for the rest of the world..
Metric please..
Isn’t it even more simpler to just get someone else to do it for you?
well hopefully that person decides to use Df96 🤓