Worked on the 283 and 327 engines for 60 years never knew about the little bolt. Learn something everyday thanks and that's what life is about. THANKS AGAIN!
@@nikoperez8078, there is a plate that the fuel pump mounts to. If you remove the two bottom bolts that hold it, you can then either remove or press the rod back in. This is a great video, but my 74 with AC required removing the bottom radiator hose, loosening the compressor & accessing it with mainly a box wrench.
Worked on a lot of cars in my years but never realized what that bolt on a SB was for. Good job and much appreciated. Always something new to learn from others.
Excellent video. Lots of videos just show the fuel pump install without an actual remove and replace of the old fuel pump. This helped immensely. Thanks🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
good video. Well done. Changed many SBC fuel pumps pre RUclips (LOL) before I knew this method. One thing I did discover (before I knew what that bolt was for) was that heavy axle grease on the fuel pump push rod would hold it up there in the channel. The grease did no harm and was actually a good thing. Do you know how many newbies to SBC's have struggled getting the new fuel pump back in place? Well obviously you do, thus the video. Very helpful to many my friend.
Perfect video. Side note, if you have a 1978 C3 there is a service bulletin that makes mention of the fuel tank bladder coming apart and clogging the fuel inlet screen. A quick way to verify that is to remove the rubber fuel line that feeds the pump. If fuel comes out you can go ahead and change out your pump. I just replaced the fuel pump only to find I had no fuel coming from the fuel tank. I took off the fuel tank cap and used an air line to blow short bursts of air in the line. It took about 10 busts to unclog the fuel line. Just wanted to pass on our experience. Thank you for the video, it helped alot.
Thanks to your video, my buddy and I were able to diagnose, replace the pump, test, and drive my '77 that had been sitting for 9 years because I wasn't confident enough to attempt anything bigger than a brake job or an oil change. Thanks very much!
Excellent video. Lots of videos just show the fuel pump install without an actual remove and replace of the old fuel pump. This helped immensely. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this video. I was able to replace my leaky fuel pump. The side bolt on my 77 Camaro 350 was used to hold down a bracket for the smog pump. A little extra work to remove but it still worked to hold down the pump rod.
I changed my fuel pump in my 1969 Corvette with a 350 last year (maybe two). I did not know about the bolt switch trick. I bought a tub of wheel bearing grease and packed it in there to keep the rod from falling out. It worked, but I like your method better. At least I have extra grease now for when I replace my heater core. I'll be sure to grease the bolts before putting them back in, like you explained in that video. Now, I'm going to watch the removing the dash video. However, before I do the heater core, I have to either replace, or flush out my fuel tank. It's got crap from the inside lining of the tank floating around in there. It's getting into the carburetor and stalling the engine. 😒
No problem glad people are watching and glad to help people out. If you want to return the favour follow me on Facebook as well “problem solver garage”
Thx Glad it’s helping people out, should be doing the vacuum system and wipers soon, also there’s a gas leak coming out of the carburetter LOL so will be doing that as well
great video the way you narrated it anyone can understand it, I'm looking because I just bought a 78 and I found a pair of vice grips on a line I thought was a brake line because the pedal goes to the floor turned out to be a return line as I get gas on the ground in the back when I removed the vice grips. not sure if I can get to it without removing the tanks, But thanks for clarification!
I tried this and on my sbc 350, the threads didn't go all the way to the end of the bolt hole - but the hole does. I used grease to fill the hole and hold the rod in place.
You are awesome bro. Great short video. My 10 year old brother should be able to do this. Thanks. Am moving onto the headlights next. My vacuum system could be checked. My speedometer doesn't light up either. My rev are also stuck on 4000 rpms. Do you have a video about the speedometer? Thanks in adav6
Hello, I have a 350 engine with the similar pump on a 68 Chevelle. I drive it sometimes with no problems. Twice it has "konked" out on me. It starts to sputter like it's not getting gas. While doing so I checked the gas line "new" filter and gas was not filling the filter. I guess that's why the sputter. I let the car sit for about 20-30 minutes to cool off. It started up and drove it home like nothing happened. Any suggestions. Thanks. Great video by the way. Didn't know about the side bolt to hold that small rod.
Hey i have a fuel see through filter n its empty when i crank it my car is a 1979 camaro z28 n it doesnt start it cranks only i hope its this the fuel pump… do i need to empty out the gas tank to do this job?🙏
Thanks for the helpful video! I'm new to engines and trying to educate myself. Just so I understand properly, why does the distributer need to be disconnected to do this?
By disconnecting that wire to the distributor, there is no way to get "spark". Without spark, there is no way of igniting the gasoline and starting a fire while all the testing is going on. Don't forget to reconnect the wire when the job's all done!
It makes sense to do that but the manual said it wasn’t necessary, there’s enough room either way and the bolds can pull it in, so that’s how I did it and it worked out fine I should’ve mentioned it in the video
@@ProblemSolverGarage Really enjoy your videos, I learn a lot. I have a C2 big block but the cars are very similar to the C3 except for vacuum and body style, so your videos are very helpful. Just a quick comment about electric fuel pump. Make sure you remove your mechanical fuel pump and not put it in series electrical then mechanical. If you diaphragm fails on your mechanical your electric will pump fuel into your crankcase. Keep the videos coming! Thanks
@@ProblemSolverGarage well that’s the thing, same thing was happening with the old and new pump, found out the rod was defective, but other than sending fuel more efficiently, not 100% sure if that would create vacuum issues mentioned
There is one video up of it, not the greatest video though but this summer I’m making a cool one where I drive it around and get peoples reactions from it. Go into my channel and look under videos
That fuel out should be a double flair steel line. Between the pump and the carburetor the gas is under pressure. Using a rubber hose is not recommended there, too dangerous.
Use a multi meter and ohm the gauge then run hot and grounds to the gauge use hot water in a cup for the sensor recheck ground gauge neeed a good ground
I had bad gas on mine. I pulled the tank, cleaned it, replaced it while doing do I blew the fuel lines out to clean all that bad gas out. Now I've been trying to Che k my fuel pump like this for a while day (new fuel pump 4 weeks old). How many times am I gonna have to turn this damn thing over before the pump lines fill again?
Worked on the 283 and 327 engines for 60 years never knew about the little bolt. Learn something everyday thanks and that's what life is
about. THANKS AGAIN!
👍 Thanks for watching
Me too
How would you push the rod back to put the new pump in ? My rod fell down.
@@nikoperez8078, there is a plate that the fuel pump mounts to. If you remove the two bottom bolts that hold it, you can then either remove or press the rod back in. This is a great video, but my 74 with AC required removing the bottom radiator hose, loosening the compressor & accessing it with mainly a box wrench.
Worked on a lot of cars in my years but never realized what that bolt on a SB was for. Good job and much appreciated. Always something new to learn from others.
Excellent video. Lots of videos just show the fuel pump install without an actual remove and replace of the old fuel pump. This helped immensely. Thanks🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Just bought a 1969 that's been sitting for 20yrs. Love these videos, hope to have mine running soon
Good luck with your project, thanks for watching
good video. Well done. Changed many SBC fuel pumps pre RUclips (LOL) before I knew this method. One thing I did discover (before I knew what that bolt was for) was that heavy axle grease on the fuel pump push rod would hold it up there in the channel. The grease did no harm and was actually a good thing. Do you know how many newbies to SBC's have struggled getting the new fuel pump back in place? Well obviously you do, thus the video. Very helpful to many my friend.
Perfect video. Side note, if you have a 1978 C3 there is a service bulletin that makes mention of the fuel tank bladder coming apart and clogging the fuel inlet screen. A quick way to verify that is to remove the rubber fuel line that feeds the pump. If fuel comes out you can go ahead and change out your pump.
I just replaced the fuel pump only to find I had no fuel coming from the fuel tank. I took off the fuel tank cap and used an air line to blow short bursts of air in the line. It took about 10 busts to unclog the fuel line.
Just wanted to pass on our experience. Thank you for the video, it helped alot.
Best video yet, very thorough
Best fuel pump install video I've seen - and I've looked at many!!!! VERY CLEAR AND SIMPLE INSTRUCTIONS AND VIDEO!!! Many thanks!!!!!!
Thanks and thanks for watching
Thank you for that great tutorial. Now, I am ready to troubleshoot and replace the pump on my 78 Silver Anniversary.
Thanks to your video, my buddy and I were able to diagnose, replace the pump, test, and drive my '77 that had been sitting for 9 years because I wasn't confident enough to attempt anything bigger than a brake job or an oil change. Thanks very much!
No problem, glad my videos are helping people out
Excellent video. Lots of videos just show the fuel pump install without an actual remove and replace of the old fuel pump. This helped immensely. Thanks for sharing.
No problem thanks for watching sorry for the late reply
Thanks for this video. I was able to replace my leaky fuel pump. The side bolt on my 77 Camaro 350 was used to hold down a bracket for the smog pump. A little extra work to remove but it still worked to hold down the pump rod.
Wow! You make it look easy. I’m planing to replace it too from a 81 vette ! It has A/C… hope it’s same process.
Thanks a lot.
This guy really breaks everything down step by step good video thanks.
Thx
Thank you for the videos, I'm starting on a 75, that hasn't run in 17 years.
From Westcoast of Canada
Thank you soo much. it helped me out tremendously, I was afraid to try it out on my 77 Malibu but you helped!
Thanks for watching
so helpful. watched 6 videos and this was the best and easiest!
Great and clear communication and instructions 🙂
Thx
Another awesome video! You always explain things so very clearly. The best channel for C3 help!!
Excellent detailed videos. Hope you saved the old fuel pump - looks like an OEM 70-72 LT1 pump - very expensive. Rebuilt ones are $300.
Well in that case I’m saving it lol
Out of ALLLL the videos they wasn’t them informative thanks man
Np
Good explanation of how to install the pump. I’ve got this job up next on my list. Thanks for sharing. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for watching, check me out on Facebook as well, like and follow
Problem solver garage
And thanks for the positive feedback
this video helped me out so much! thank you very much for everything! :)
Thanks 🙏🏻
You showed me exactly what I needed to see. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I have a 69 with AC. And there is a bit more involved before I can even get to the fuel pump.
Good video, didn't know about the bolt that holds up the rod, fixing to change the fuel pump on a 1972 chevy truck!
Now that you know it should be easy, good luck
I changed my fuel pump in my 1969 Corvette with a 350 last year (maybe two). I did not know about the bolt switch trick. I bought a tub of wheel bearing grease and packed it in there to keep the rod from falling out. It worked, but I like your method better. At least I have extra grease now for when I replace my heater core. I'll be sure to grease the bolts before putting them back in, like you explained in that video. Now, I'm going to watch the removing the dash video.
However, before I do the heater core, I have to either replace, or flush out my fuel tank. It's got crap from the inside lining of the tank floating around in there. It's getting into the carburetor and stalling the engine. 😒
Good luck with your project my friend
didn't know about that bolt to hold the rod in place Thanks, knowledge is power!
👍
Great video! I appreciated the close up view
WoW!! Very useful video for me Thank you!!! I have this issue and rust problem :P I check your videos :D
Now do you the same thing with a factory AC car, smart guy!
Thanks for all the videos soo far on the C3! It really helps when doing these jobs! Keep up the good work!
No problem glad people are watching and glad to help people out. If you want to return the favour follow me on Facebook as well
“problem solver garage”
facebook.com/TomTheProblemSolver/
Thx Glad it’s helping people out, should be doing the vacuum system and wipers soon, also there’s a gas leak coming out of the carburetter LOL so will be doing that as well
Thank you so much. I tried this out and your video helped.
Np 😉
Perfect video👍👍👍
Thanks and thanks for watching
Great explanation!! I never knew. Thanks!
Nicely done
great video the way you narrated it anyone can understand it, I'm
looking because I just bought a 78 and I found a pair of vice grips on a
line I thought was a brake line because the pedal goes to the floor
turned out to be a return line as I get gas on the ground in the back
when I removed the vice grips. not sure if I can get to it without
removing the tanks, But thanks for clarification!
I tried this and on my sbc 350, the threads didn't go all the way to the end of the bolt hole - but the hole does. I used grease to fill the hole and hold the rod in place.
You are awesome bro. Great short video. My 10 year old brother should be able to do this. Thanks. Am moving onto the headlights next. My vacuum system could be checked. My speedometer doesn't light up either. My rev are also stuck on 4000 rpms. Do you have a video about the speedometer? Thanks in adav6
Thank u sir for the video
Can you do the same pump-pushrod-securing-trick with the 454 cubic inch displacement engine?
Hello, I have a 350 engine with the similar pump on a 68 Chevelle. I drive it sometimes with no problems. Twice it has "konked" out on me. It starts to sputter like it's not getting gas. While doing so I checked the gas line "new" filter and gas was not filling the filter. I guess that's why the sputter. I let the car sit for about 20-30 minutes to cool off. It started up and drove it home like nothing happened. Any suggestions. Thanks. Great video by the way. Didn't know about the side bolt to hold that small rod.
Did you figure it out? I'm experiencing the same thing
good job
Thanks and thanks for watching
Hey i have a fuel see through filter n its empty when i crank it my car is a 1979 camaro z28 n it doesnt start it cranks only i hope its this the fuel pump… do i need to empty out the gas tank to do this job?🙏
Thanks for the helpful video! I'm new to engines and trying to educate myself. Just so I understand properly, why does the distributer need to be disconnected to do this?
By disconnecting that wire to the distributor, there is no way to get "spark". Without spark, there is no way of igniting the gasoline and starting a fire while all the testing is going on. Don't forget to reconnect the wire when the job's all done!
Really struggling to get that 90 degree line disconnected, any secrets to that part?
Amazing video thank you
No problem, thanks for watching
Good video
Thx 👍
Nice ours is leaking oil. Going to do this next.
Nice 👍
Great work as usual!
Thx 🙏🏻
Nicely done!
Thx 🙏🏻
@@ProblemSolverGarage did you put the engine on tdc before changing the fuel pump?
It makes sense to do that but the manual said it wasn’t necessary, there’s enough room either way and the bolds can pull it in, so that’s how I did it and it worked out fine I should’ve mentioned it in the video
Awesome. Thank you.
No problem thanks for watching
What brand? No sealer on the side bolt ?
Nice, but the shaft runs off a lobe on the camshaft not the crankshaft
Correct
Can a bad fuel pump make a knocking/tapping noise?
Can a bad fuel pump cause fuel to get into the oil on these? I’ve heard this is something to start with when working on my 77 el camino 350 SBC.
Good question I actually don’t know
Which line you used to test the fuel pump the one whit the clamp or the one you have to screwed
The one that goes to the motor
Replaced mine, now getting way too much fuel and not sure why? Pissing out the top of my quadrajet. Flooding out he motor. Will not stay running.
Can you use a different kind of fuel pump on a old small block Chevy 350
There is different designs, they look different but they’re all the same internally, also you can go electric
@@ProblemSolverGarage Really enjoy your videos, I learn a lot. I have a C2 big block but the cars are very similar to the C3 except for vacuum and body style, so your videos are very helpful. Just a quick comment about electric fuel pump. Make sure you remove your mechanical fuel pump and not put it in series electrical then mechanical. If you diaphragm fails on your mechanical your electric will pump fuel into your crankcase. Keep the videos coming! Thanks
Awesome!!!
quick question, i have a problem where fuel gets drained back from the fuel filter pretty quickly, any solutions??
Is the pump brand new?
@@ProblemSolverGarage well that’s the thing, same thing was happening with the old and new pump, found out the rod was defective, but other than sending fuel more efficiently, not 100% sure if that would create vacuum issues mentioned
Sorry I’m not too sure
You could look at a one way check vale in your fuel line before fuel filter - will stop the fuel draining away
TURN THE BOX WRENCH AROUND FOR BETTER LEVERAGE
😊😊😊😊
Screw or nut. Come on it’s a BOLT.😂
I got this motor in a box chevy.. Can anyone tell me why tha fuel pump keeps going ou?? This is tha second one I have had to buy this year
Tha motor is camed and a stall in tha trans.. Just saying would that make a difference??
Make sure that the rod is good
Where is the videos of my pink now purple car??
There is one video up of it, not the greatest video though but this summer I’m making a cool one where I drive it around and get peoples reactions from it.
Go into my channel and look under videos
That fuel out should be a double flair steel line. Between the pump and the carburetor the gas is under pressure. Using a rubber hose is not recommended there, too dangerous.
I agree with you, but on the 68 and 69 Corvette it came like that stock. I do upgrade it in further episodes
use Teflon tape not worth risking gas leak
It’s a compression fitting Just like brake lines, it doesn’t require Teflon tape 👍
I hope your temp guage stops working so we get a repair video lol. My 77 temp guage doesn't work.
Lol
Use a multi meter and ohm the gauge then run hot and grounds to the gauge use hot water in a cup for the sensor recheck ground gauge neeed a good ground
It's not oval shaped, it's eccentric
I was just using Laymans terms for explanation purposes.
I thought the cam ran the fuel pump.
You are correct I made a mistake in my video, you’re the second person to notice 👍
Next time remove your hand blocking the view of the distributor, thanks.
I had bad gas on mine. I pulled the tank, cleaned it, replaced it while doing do I blew the fuel lines out to clean all that bad gas out. Now I've been trying to Che k my fuel pump like this for a while day (new fuel pump 4 weeks old). How many times am I gonna have to turn this damn thing over before the pump lines fill again?