Article: www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3172-nvidia-titana-v-gpu-core-vs-hbm2-memory-overclocking You might also like our Titan V gaming benchmarks: www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3170-titan-v-gaming-benchmarks-async-future-is-bright-for-volta
¿When benchmark for the real pourpose of this card and the people whom are really interested in working-scenarios? Productivity, media content creation, 3D rendering, IA developing, ...Im expecting that but seems we are only interested in 5FPS more even in a non gaming graphic card.
You can protect the caps around the die from liquid metal by covering them in completely in non conductive paste, I usually use a bunch of MX-4 to protect caps from liquid metal. Its a lot more safe than electrical tape, and a lot less permanent than nail polish. Also, pro tip for when you do the shunt mod: make sure the liquid metal is only on TOP of the shunts, if it gets down the sides, it WILL eat the solder, and the shunt will fall off. Again, protect sides of shunt with a silicon based TIM.
if you tighten the nuts directly on the pcb you bend the pcb and actually give the gpu die and hbm uneven pressure, because the pcb is the only thing holding the cooler and the gpu. The whole point of the metal brackets behind the pcb on cpu coolers and some gpu coolers is to remove the bending forces from the pcb by distributing the pressure evenly across as much surface on the pcb as possible
Yeah we can't afford, but it's all for better, doing such things is what's keeping manufacturers work hard and not be like we're innovating. It's all to keep the technology going.
Machinist trick for measuring distance between centerpoints when you need to be a little more accurate than using your eyecrometer: Measure the diameter of one of the holes using the internal jaws (on the top). Zero your calipers at this measurement. Use the internal jaws to measure from outside edge to outside edge of both holes. This measurement is the distance from center to center. Same story for pins or bolt shanks, but use the external jaws instead. This only works when both holes are the same diameter. Alternately you can do the last step and then subtract 2x the radius, but zeroing on a diameter does this for you. Double alternately, in cases where clearance is an issue, you can measure inside edge to inside edge using the external jaws and add 2xR. The reason I'm saying 2xR instead of diameter is you can use the math method for finding centerpoint distance between holes of different sizes. Measure the inside or outside edge distance then add or subtract 1xR1 and 1xR2 to get center to center.
Kenneth Higley glad someone said that. I was going to say measure the hole, then measure the distance between holes. Add 1 hole for the half measure or (center) and it's easier than holding it and assuming center.
Aaahh. Why would you do the screws through backwards like that. Just put some washers under the heads, with the heads on the BACK of the card, and the excess screw-shank length exposed UPWARD, on the waterblock side. That way you could have had the screw shanks just pointing up at you while you easily just dropped the waterblock down over them, while the whole card is sitting securely down flat on the table (no obstructions protruding from the back of the PCB). Then you easily tighten the hex-nuts without moving or even handling the card at all. Don't even need to access the Phillips drive heads on the screws themselves. You can hold the screws from turning if necessary, by gripping the thread ends of the shanks gently with needle-nose pliers, while easily wrenching the nuts tight at the same time, all from the front. So no need to turn the card over or fight with the cold-plate and thermal paste moving and sliding all around.
You guys totally crushed it! I read bad PSU Reviews on your Site without any measurements back some years and now your doing this kind of videos... great job keep it up!
Love the video, can't wait for the results. There are a lot of great comments on this video. Kenneth's trick for easily measuring center-to-center with calipers, wheetcracker's comment about investing in some torque drivers, and Mora's suggestion of getting some prototypers to build you custom backplates and adapters. You guys seem competent with CAD tools, and I think some time spent in the design stage would save you a ton of time mucking about with off-the-shelf parts. Would also be some very interesting and rather informative content.
When measuring hole spacing, the correct way to do it is use the I.D. jaws on the calipers and subtract the hole size from that dimension. Love your channel!
I have worked with electronic components in a manufacturing context and experienced some major pucker factor while watching this. If I were to engineer a solution for this I would consider using some vinyl standoffs as spacers between the cooler and the PC board. Vinyl spacers would be easily resized/shaped with a file or sand paper and they could be used to give you some insurance against the tightening bias you mentioned on the top of the die.
You should use a reinforcing plate on the backside of the GPU to prevent warping the PCB. Especially if the tabs on the mount are a little out of plane. That's why the contact wasn't even.
Loving this content Steve.. I always despise where channels buy something awesome then drop it, but this is improving ( hopefully!) keep up the good work.
You guys may want to team up with one of the RUclips machinist channels. Having somebody like Abom79, NYC CNC or oxtoolsco helping you manufacture cooler mount plates or even entire cooler cold plates for cards would not only be useful for you, but also would offer additional, interesting content.
Have you ever thought about using an Aquarium water chiller to chill the fluid/water to achieve sub ambient temps? I have a Haliea HC300 and its set to keep the fluid in my loop at 19c (any lower than this condensation starts to become an issue), Its able to keep a 1950x at 4.1GHz 24/7 and a 1080ti at 2050MHz, could go higher on the GPU but power is the limiting factor with these Pascal based cards as you know. The 1080ti never goes above 26c even at full load.
The chiller I'm using is designed or meant to be used with up to a 300 litre tank and used 24/7, I'm only cooling around 1.5 litres of fluid and used for around 12 hours a day as its only on when the PC is on. It fires up every 7-8 mins or so for a few seconds depending on the kind of load that's on the system. Its been running fine for around 4-5 months now, maybe a bit longer as I was using it in my old 6800K system before now, I wanted to test it out on that rather than on new parts.
Its not a new thing, the first I heard about it was around 2009 when Bit-tech did a review on a Hailea Chiller, they were able to overclock a Nehalem/Westmere i7-980x to 5GHz using one, wanted one ever since then :D www.bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/cooling/hailea-hc-500a-water-chiller-review/7/
Andy Bradley So, what’s the pump noise? I mean, would you realise it was firing up every 7-8 mins? That would be...noticeable. Possibly annoying? Or is the noise imperceptible?
4:26, I like how you cut the footage of actually separating the mounting plate - I own a few of these alphacool style kits (i.e., FD Kelvin series kits), and can confirm separating those interlocking metal plates is the hardest thing I've EVER done in PC building haha...
This is a VERY impractical attempt on fixing the cooler to the PCB. Try it with four flat head screws going from the backside sticking through the PCB and fix them with nuts. That way you'd have the screws ready to mount the cooler on. Now you just need spring loaded nuts, i'm pretty sure you have spares laying around somewhere.
You know what else is impractical? Buying a $3000 card and sticking a liquid cooler on it, then trying to get top 10 for Firestrike scores. The entire thing is impractical.
What we really need is a graphics card with 2 completely different GPUs. That way we could trick the computer into thinking one is for the host operating system and the other is for the guest operating system. Then using some special GPU passthrough software we can run a simple lightweight Linux distro as the host on the smaller GPU and then run some other operating system on the stronger GPU as a guest. Once we can do all that on a mini-ITX with LGA 2066, we will all be in high-cotton.
You need to get yourself either a milling machine or a 3d printer so you can make your own brackets because that looks sketchy as hell on a card that expensive. You are a braver man than I.
Why didn't you put the bolt in from the back, put a nut on it and tighten down then put the cooler on the 4 posts and use another nut to tighten it down instead of fiddling with trying to put the bolts through an a nut on? It would've been less fiddly and easier to add the thermal paste later.
Why don't you try the EK Thermosphere or VGA Supremacy for your hybrid mods??? Is it because it's too expensive to have a custom loop compared to a closed loop???
Nah they are 5 milliohm. The whole point of a shunt resistor for current sensing is that it has a very low known resistance so you can pass current through it to measure the voltage drop across it to calculate the current going through it.
yeah a big resistor maximizes the voltage reading and a very small resistance maximizes the current flow and the voltage is very low on this low resistance so short circuit this gives you an almost 0 V reading what means for the control cicuit it didn't sense and reach the voltage limit :D
What was that reactive paper you were using? I’m wanting to watercool my 1070 ti but I don’t want to have a chance of cracking the die. (I want to use a cpu aio cooler instead of a full custom loop)
I love how careful he is, for a bodge job from the wrong cooler haha =P (I know, its a 3K graphics card!). Just go get a block cut from a metal mill. they'd make you a copper block/aluminium block sure enough. You paid 3K for the card why not spend a bit more on a customer cooler block?
Usually I'd be annoyed about constantly seeing a channel do videos on the same product, but I really want you guys to make your money back from that monstrosity haha. Looking forward to the benchmarks!!
Gday. Can you please bench test some games over THREE screens - 1080p 60hz-75hz freesync using DP cable and THREE 1440p 60-75hz using DP cable...... Eg Dirt Rally , ETS2 , DCS World free2play , World Of Tanks free2play World of Warships free2play .. Thanks in advance , no one ever covers people using multi screens in benchmarks
Article: www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3172-nvidia-titana-v-gpu-core-vs-hbm2-memory-overclocking
You might also like our Titan V gaming benchmarks: www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3170-titan-v-gaming-benchmarks-async-future-is-bright-for-volta
Grats on the Top 10 score! Glad I could help in the live stream!
Gamers Nexus you got skills.
Gamers Nexus why don't u use an inch pound torque wrench? That would keep an accurate record of how tight u made it.
¿When benchmark for the real pourpose of this card and the people whom are really interested in working-scenarios? Productivity, media content creation, 3D rendering, IA developing, ...Im expecting that but seems we are only interested in 5FPS more even in a non gaming graphic card.
You can protect the caps around the die from liquid metal by covering them in completely in non conductive paste, I usually use a bunch of MX-4 to protect caps from liquid metal. Its a lot more safe than electrical tape, and a lot less permanent than nail polish.
Also, pro tip for when you do the shunt mod: make sure the liquid metal is only on TOP of the shunts, if it gets down the sides, it WILL eat the solder, and the shunt will fall off. Again, protect sides of shunt with a silicon based TIM.
if you tighten the nuts directly on the pcb you bend the pcb and actually give the gpu die and hbm uneven pressure, because the pcb is the only thing holding the cooler and the gpu. The whole point of the metal brackets behind the pcb on cpu coolers and some gpu coolers is to remove the bending forces from the pcb by distributing the pressure evenly across as much surface on the pcb as possible
finally the hybrid mod(for a card that I could never afford).
Not hybrid though. This is just a watercooler. Hybrids have heatsinks on the VRM's and fans dedicated to the heatsinks.
true, in this case it is a watercooled Titan V, more akin to a DIY seahawk EK without the Monoblock
Maybe we can't afford it, but it's interesting nonetheless.
Yeah we can't afford, but it's all for better, doing such things is what's keeping manufacturers work hard and not be like we're innovating. It's all to keep the technology going.
finally
Machinist trick for measuring distance between centerpoints when you need to be a little more accurate than using your eyecrometer:
Measure the diameter of one of the holes using the internal jaws (on the top). Zero your calipers at this measurement. Use the internal jaws to measure from outside edge to outside edge of both holes. This measurement is the distance from center to center. Same story for pins or bolt shanks, but use the external jaws instead. This only works when both holes are the same diameter.
Alternately you can do the last step and then subtract 2x the radius, but zeroing on a diameter does this for you. Double alternately, in cases where clearance is an issue, you can measure inside edge to inside edge using the external jaws and add 2xR. The reason I'm saying 2xR instead of diameter is you can use the math method for finding centerpoint distance between holes of different sizes. Measure the inside or outside edge distance then add or subtract 1xR1 and 1xR2 to get center to center.
yup, the internal jaws are there for a reason.
Kenneth Higley glad someone said that. I was going to say measure the hole, then measure the distance between holes. Add 1 hole for the half measure or (center) and it's easier than holding it and assuming center.
Save some pussy for the rest of us damn.
Of course your name is Ken. Hi Ken :D
this is simply the best tech channel on youtube ! great work guys !
Vega 64 x 64? Coesidence? I think not!
All knowing you are, yes....
Next card will be Mario 64. copyright be damned!
Aaahh. Why would you do the screws through backwards like that. Just put some washers under the heads, with the heads on the BACK of the card, and the excess screw-shank length exposed UPWARD, on the waterblock side. That way you could have had the screw shanks just pointing up at you while you easily just dropped the waterblock down over them, while the whole card is sitting securely down flat on the table (no obstructions protruding from the back of the PCB). Then you easily tighten the hex-nuts without moving or even handling the card at all. Don't even need to access the Phillips drive heads on the screws themselves. You can hold the screws from turning if necessary, by gripping the thread ends of the shanks gently with needle-nose pliers, while easily wrenching the nuts tight at the same time, all from the front. So no need to turn the card over or fight with the cold-plate and thermal paste moving and sliding all around.
From stream to a new video, thanks Steve!
CADesigner putting up relevant content and honest product reviews keeps me subscribed
CADesigner I zhseyeye
Have been waiting for this ever since you said you were gonna do it😍😍
You guys totally crushed it! I read bad PSU Reviews on your Site without any measurements back some years and now your doing this kind of videos... great job keep it up!
Love the video, can't wait for the results.
There are a lot of great comments on this video. Kenneth's trick for easily measuring center-to-center with calipers, wheetcracker's comment about investing in some torque drivers, and Mora's suggestion of getting some prototypers to build you custom backplates and adapters. You guys seem competent with CAD tools, and I think some time spent in the design stage would save you a ton of time mucking about with off-the-shelf parts. Would also be some very interesting and rather informative content.
The Man We Do Not Deserve: GN Steve
When measuring hole spacing, the correct way to do it is use the I.D. jaws on the calipers and subtract the hole size from that dimension. Love your channel!
can't wait to see the new numbers! and the scientific test benchmarks.
Your content is some of the most engaging and interesting content I see from youtubers in the PC enthusiast genre
You seem like a really smart and well spoken guy. Keep up the good work, it's really interesting! Cheers from Finland.
Your videos are so pleasing to watch, keep up the awesome work!
I have worked with electronic components in a manufacturing context and experienced some major pucker factor while watching this. If I were to engineer a solution for this I would consider using some vinyl standoffs as spacers between the cooler and the PC board. Vinyl spacers would be easily resized/shaped with a file or sand paper and they could be used to give you some insurance against the tightening bias you mentioned on the top of the die.
You should use a reinforcing plate on the backside of the GPU to prevent warping the PCB. Especially if the tabs on the mount are a little out of plane. That's why the contact wasn't even.
Loving this content Steve.. I always despise where channels buy something awesome then drop it, but this is improving ( hopefully!) keep up the good work.
You guys may want to team up with one of the RUclips machinist channels. Having somebody like Abom79, NYC CNC or oxtoolsco helping you manufacture cooler mount plates or even entire cooler cold plates for cards would not only be useful for you, but also would offer additional, interesting content.
Mora Fermi true but GN’s setup is basic enough for any yokel to reproduce.
Please put a 90mm noctua on the vrms and all that good stuff and youre good to go :)
damn steve is out here BALLIN, just went out to whatever fucking store that has Titan V's. But the man got two of em!
im glad i watched some of the live stream because this left me hanging!
Gamers Nexus getting the most content possible out of his $3000 purchase. I am loving every damn second of it
You guys need a friend with a machine shop for all your crazy Frankenstein mods.
Have you ever thought about using an Aquarium water chiller to chill the fluid/water to achieve sub ambient temps? I have a Haliea HC300 and its set to keep the fluid in my loop at 19c (any lower than this condensation starts to become an issue), Its able to keep a 1950x at 4.1GHz 24/7 and a 1080ti at 2050MHz, could go higher on the GPU but power is the limiting factor with these Pascal based cards as you know. The 1080ti never goes above 26c even at full load.
That's a neat idea, but surely the water chillers won't last very long under that kind of strain?
The chiller I'm using is designed or meant to be used with up to a 300 litre tank and used 24/7, I'm only cooling around 1.5 litres of fluid and used for around 12 hours a day as its only on when the PC is on. It fires up every 7-8 mins or so for a few seconds depending on the kind of load that's on the system. Its been running fine for around 4-5 months now, maybe a bit longer as I was using it in my old 6800K system before now, I wanted to test it out on that rather than on new parts.
That's pretty cool, you might be on to something. You should make a youtube video and share your idea wit the world!
Its not a new thing, the first I heard about it was around 2009 when Bit-tech did a review on a Hailea Chiller, they were able to overclock a Nehalem/Westmere i7-980x to 5GHz using one, wanted one ever since then :D www.bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/cooling/hailea-hc-500a-water-chiller-review/7/
Andy Bradley So, what’s the pump noise? I mean, would you realise it was firing up every 7-8 mins? That would be...noticeable. Possibly annoying? Or is the noise imperceptible?
Loved this video Steve! 👍
I kinda like the chunky look of the all-in GPU die/memory/interposer sandwich compared to the usually separate die flanked by memory chips.
UNLEASH DA POWAAAAAAA !! Superbe vid GN, as always. Keep Up the good work! :D
That mat looks sweet dude.
yo straight outta the stream
Fair warning: NOT OUT OF THE BOX THERMALS
UltimateXtreme There's no thermals in this video.
To see how much i appreaciate your videos i watched an 8:47 minute add ! :D
I'm almost there... another month of saving and I'm going to throw for a Titan V... what a piece of kit...
4:26, I like how you cut the footage of actually separating the mounting plate - I own a few of these alphacool style kits (i.e., FD Kelvin series kits), and can confirm separating those interlocking metal plates is the hardest thing I've EVER done in PC building haha...
proxactual My cheapo 80e 240mm rad has 2 metsl plates you screw onto it. It took me like 30m to realise how to screw them onto the cold plate xD
Hammer? Nuke it from orbit. Only way to be sure.
But remember, you won't get it +200.
you've got me subscribed !
Oh my god! Thermal Grizzly, can you be my secret Santa this year? I'd like a care package like!
You need to get your measurements together and get a custom backplate made at a machine shop to reduce strain on the PCB.
love the mod mat :)
I love this channel.
Live stream was cool
This is a VERY impractical attempt on fixing the cooler to the PCB.
Try it with four flat head screws going from the backside sticking through the PCB and fix them with nuts. That way you'd have the screws ready to mount the cooler on. Now you just need spring loaded nuts, i'm pretty sure you have spares laying around somewhere.
You know what else is impractical? Buying a $3000 card and sticking a liquid cooler on it, then trying to get top 10 for Firestrike scores. The entire thing is impractical.
Then WHY? xD
Just.... just why?
For fun.
For science!
To boldly go where no man has gone before!!
Fuck yeah, good work guys awesome video!
that mat is a beauty but it's already christmas!
i fucking love my pro tech toolkit its saved my ass more times than i can count fixing my tech and my kids toys
You guys should really invest in some torque drivers.
It would be easy if you use short stiff spring for the 4 screws.Remove the guess work.
What we really need is a graphics card with 2 completely different GPUs.
That way we could trick the computer into thinking one is for the host operating system and the other is for the guest operating system.
Then using some special GPU passthrough software we can run a simple lightweight Linux distro as the host on the smaller GPU and then run some other operating system on the stronger GPU as a guest.
Once we can do all that on a mini-ITX with LGA 2066, we will all be in high-cotton.
You need to get yourself either a milling machine or a 3d printer so you can make your own brackets because that looks sketchy as hell on a card that expensive. You are a braver man than I.
Why not simply use the NZXT's G12 GPU bracket? Unless the Titan V uses non-standard NV cooler mounting, it should fit pretty much perfectly.
Serious question:
*Couldn't you 3D print a perfect fitting mounting kit? There are some very durable options available.
that mat is pretty cool
Liked before watch
High ground before the fall
one thing i might do is add a copper shim to help spread the load
I have to say, that modmat is pretty dope! If I wasn't more broke than an EA game on release right now, I would buy one.
Why didn't you put the bolt in from the back, put a nut on it and tighten down then put the cooler on the 4 posts and use another nut to tighten it down instead of fiddling with trying to put the bolts through an a nut on? It would've been less fiddly and easier to add the thermal paste later.
You Titaned those up V well
Next time, hit me up, I will cnc-mill you a bracket what can hold the most capable cold plate :)
U should use a torque screw driver to measure how much torque u apply
Great content.
What's your sofa look like? Really want to know what kind of couch to kick back on.
You could try to use NZXT Kraken g12. It would save a lot of your time
Use washers next time to spread the load on the PCB. Probably not needed, but still.
great video
Nice job, that's awesome.
Taped a 120mm liquid cooler to an RX460. It did 16000MHz, and totaly didn't die 2 weeks later
Why don't you try the EK Thermosphere or VGA Supremacy for your hybrid mods??? Is it because it's too expensive to have a custom loop compared to a closed loop???
What are those weird fingers at the top of the card.. Is it a new form of sli?
NVlink, they are disabled on this card, though.
Didn't have time to watch the whole thing but how are you planning to cool the VRMs?
Could you put a link to BBT's channel in the desc? I'm gonna go find it, but most people are a bit more lazy :P
8:10 I think it' a 5 mega ohm resistance. 5 milli ohm would be already close to short circuit :D
Nah they are 5 milliohm. The whole point of a shunt resistor for current sensing is that it has a very low known resistance so you can pass current through it to measure the voltage drop across it to calculate the current going through it.
yeah a big resistor maximizes the voltage reading and a very small resistance maximizes the current flow and the voltage is very low on this low resistance
so short circuit this gives you an almost 0 V reading what means for the control cicuit it didn't sense and reach the voltage limit :D
When you sending the second card back to BBT? Can I get it next? J/k
Those NVlink connectors on the card look operational. Are they?
What about VRM cooling?
once you see the PCB breakdown for this it should be pretty obvious that this VRM will not run hot as long as it's provided some airflow.
So what you're saying is, my 1080 Ti running at a max of 49℃ with an NZXT X41 cooling it, can be overclocked? :P
Alexander Rex Evensen
What was the purpose of dropping it from 60c under load to 49c?
I dont understand this shit at all, but its still entertaining
i was thought you'll wanna use savage jerky as thermal paste
What was that reactive paper you were using? I’m wanting to watercool my 1070 ti but I don’t want to have a chance of cracking the die. (I want to use a cpu aio cooler instead of a full custom loop)
15 min of holding my breath!!!
But can we finally have a review on that AIO?.
Now that's a "jerry rig" !!
this is rough haha i love it
Why not just Dremel those mounting brackets so the holes line up?
".. one would line up, but not the other...".. ahh, right :-D
I love how careful he is, for a bodge job from the wrong cooler haha =P (I know, its a 3K graphics card!).
Just go get a block cut from a metal mill. they'd make you a copper block/aluminium block sure enough. You paid 3K for the card why not spend a bit more on a customer cooler block?
Where are you going to plug that pump header into? Will the fan header on the graphics card pcb work?
Usually I'd be annoyed about constantly seeing a channel do videos on the same product, but I really want you guys to make your money back from that monstrosity haha. Looking forward to the benchmarks!!
0:35 When one Titan V is not enough...
I got worse cooling with kryonaut than I did with AS5 on my CPU and graphics card. Tried various methods of application. was quite diappointed :(
Which is thermal grizzly's least electrically conductive thermal grease?
What's the P/N and maker of that chemical "pressure" paper? :)
Why not use springs, for consistent pressure?
Gday. Can you please bench test some games over THREE screens - 1080p 60hz-75hz freesync using DP cable and THREE 1440p 60-75hz using DP cable...... Eg Dirt Rally , ETS2 , DCS World free2play , World Of Tanks free2play World of Warships free2play .. Thanks in advance , no one ever covers people using multi screens in benchmarks
Tease. Fire it up.
Damn.... Sweet
Why do you have multiple Titan Vs now?
I was hoping we would at least get confirmation that the card is working with the cooler on it...
Did you miss our livestream?
Gamers Nexus Aye, didn't see it until after I watched this.
What about those vrms?