Very good content that every homeowner should be aware of before hiring to do mold remediation. My problem is invisible type of mold - aspergillus and most of the remediation folks only seem familiar with "visible" mold. I've been v. sick for 2 months so I'm having to learn what I can online - the "powerpoint " info boxes make are very useful!
Thank you for the kind words. I’m sorry to hear about you being sick. Assuming it’s mold-related, more comprehensive mold remediation techniques would be likely be needed in your case. I’ve found that while traditional remediation services work for the masses, it’s not always sufficient when it comes to those who are immunocompromised, suffering from mold-related illness, etc. Keep doing your research online and do feel free to reach out to me with any questions. While I certainly don’t know everything, I’ve certainly educated myself well being the bare minimum that my industry requires.
Remove the cloths and dust in your house. You maybe reacting to dust. And launder you’re bedsheets. The bed is a huge trigger for me from dust and dust mites. I just got an air scrubbier and had it run for an hour and feel much better in the house already.
Hey Josh, Question, What would be the best solution according to you to clean microbial growth inside flexible ducts located in attic here in Florida. I'm assuming replacement would be an option. Thank You
Anytime I’m dealing with microbial growth within flex ducting, I’m opting for replacement… While there are rare instances where you can access all portions of the flex ducting and potentially damp wipe the surface to remove the growth, most situations leave professionals limited. More often than not, a small segment of the flex ducting can be accessed, so cleaning really becomes a best attempt. Whenever possible, microbial impacted flex ducting should be replaced.
So once I clean the area with sprays and bleach and white vinegar and everything I have to remove the mold, then I should look deeper into the wall or take samples and send them off? @ 11:00
Samples are not always a requirement. Unless you can answer a question or confirm/deny a hypothesis by using a sample, laboratory analysis expenses can be better spent on remediation and rebuild. If you're looking to confirm a successful completion of the remediation process, then yes, sampling would be effective at accomplishing that goal. The combination of air and surface samples can provide you with insight on the remainder of fungi within the environment. You may also look to renting a laser particle counter and ATP luminometer to look at the particles in the air and on surfaces. In most cases, analytical sampling for mold will be more cost effective and will provide data specific to mold.
instead of minimizing the air, can I maximize the air by opening the windows to remove the spores after I have killed spores with bleach and sprays? As I am guessing once the spores are dead I will be able to get rid of them easier without them spreading?
Due to the allergenic properties of mold, dead or alive mold can be just as impactful to your health. Not to mention that bleach would not be your ideal solution, if you were truly looking to kill all mold. As far as air exchanges and airflow is concerned, there are many approaches. You can positively or negatively pressurize environments. You can also use natural ventilation by opening windows, however, I would not advise this. Unless you have consistent airflow from one direction, you will lose control of the environment and have fungal spores blowing all over the place.
If we’re talking about the same thing, a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide would be your best friend, when it comes to remove growth from surfaces that are not smooth and easy enough to surface clean and damp wipe. Growth that has embedded itself into the substrate somewhat can also be lifted to the surface for HEPA vacuuming, using a system like Serum (hydrogen peroxide cleaning process).
Unfortunately, that may be the case. However, not always. One important factor when dealing with mold is the dose-response relationship. You may have mold within an environment and not exhibit any adverse reactions. While, some individuals may become very ill with even the smallest traces of mold indoors. The best advice I can give you is the use your judgment. If mold sampling shows no abnormal fungal concentrations within the indoor air quality and no one living within the property is exhibiting any negative health effects, you may not need to go demolishing walls. Alternately, if the environment is not feeling adequate, you may very well need to undergo extensive mold remediation.
@@IAQJosh Thanks man, I think I'm just going to have a good go at killing as much of the mold as I possibly can then using my 25 liter dehumidifier with a hepa filter to help scrub the air?
The question that I would ask you is why use a biocide, if something more mild would suffice - such as dawn dish soap used as a surfactant with water? Every situation is unique, so I wouldn’t necessarily say ye or ne toward any approach as a whole. As far as sealants, I’m not opposed to encapsulating surfaces. However, my preference is always clear, and something that has a suitable perm rating. After all, we don’t want to trap moisture in surfaces and cause deterioration.
In my dads bedroom, he has 2 radiators on the wall underneath each window, he only uses 1 radiator and the radiator that's he is using there is no mold near it, but the radiator that's off has loads of mold near it on the wall, so I am guessing I need to fix the mold issue then use both radiators instead of 1 to fix the damp/condensation issues?
There's a lot going on in your last statement... You may want to consider hiring a mold professional to evaluate the area you're referencing, as that would generally produce the best advice. If there is high humidity in the room and there's a subsequently high dew point, then you'll likely need to either dehumidify the environment or provide additional cooling and conditioning - if one unit is not sufficient in accomplishing this.
@@IAQJosh I bought a Meaco 25 liter dehumidifier but I am applying lots of bleach to try and kill the black mould around the caulk in the bathroom and on the window sills at the minute, once I have killed all of the mould should I start using it? I forgot to mention the dehumidifier also has a hepa filter built in 🙂
@@IAQJosh If I am totally honest with you it is a rented property and it seems like the landlord doesn't care about the mold issues so I have no choice but to try and deal with it myself
If the black mold isn't that bad in one room can I use bleach and sprays and stuff like that to kill the mold and then air the house out and open all of the windows to remove the spores and then use a dehumidifier with a hepa filter to help purify the air?
Hi Jordan. Professionally speaking, there are far better alternatives to bleach. Sodium hypochlorite (the active ingredient in bleach) is very effective when used as a mold stain remover, however, it's not ideal for remediation of mold. A hydrogen peroxide product would be more effective at lifting mold to the surfaces of materials, and soap and water is excellent for physical mold removal from surfaces.
Depending on your exact needs and what you're looking to achieve, DIY cheap remediation may or may not be an option for you. With that said, acquiring the necessary materials and equipment can be done at relatively affordable rates. By building containment and removing/cleaning/etc. the mold yourself, you can certainly save a ton of money on labor. One of the most important factors is ensuring that you're able to perform this work safely. If there is any doubt in you doing so, I would not advise a DIY approach.
@@JORDANDAVIES30 Be very weary using bleach… Bleach merely lightens the areas you’re cleaning. It’s not effective at getting to the root of the mold growth, so mold often grows back in those same areas.
@@IAQJosh What about on caulk around the bath? Will it kill the mould around the bath? I used bleach and toilet paper to keep the bleach wet and it made the caulk perfectly white like it had been re-caulked
Very good content that every homeowner should be aware of before hiring to do mold remediation. My problem is invisible type of mold - aspergillus and most of the remediation folks only seem familiar with "visible" mold. I've been v. sick for 2 months so I'm having to learn what I can online - the "powerpoint " info boxes make are very useful!
Thank you for the kind words. I’m sorry to hear about you being sick. Assuming it’s mold-related, more comprehensive mold remediation techniques would be likely be needed in your case.
I’ve found that while traditional remediation services work for the masses, it’s not always sufficient when it comes to those who are immunocompromised, suffering from mold-related illness, etc. Keep doing your research online and do feel free to reach out to me with any questions. While I certainly don’t know everything, I’ve certainly educated myself well being the bare minimum that my industry requires.
Remove the cloths and dust in your house. You maybe reacting to dust. And launder you’re bedsheets. The bed is a huge trigger for me from dust and dust mites. I just got an air scrubbier and had it run for an hour and feel much better in the house already.
Hey Josh, Question, What would be the best solution according to you to clean microbial growth inside flexible ducts located in attic here in Florida. I'm assuming replacement would be an option.
Thank You
Anytime I’m dealing with microbial growth within flex ducting, I’m opting for replacement… While there are rare instances where you can access all portions of the flex ducting and potentially damp wipe the surface to remove the growth, most situations leave professionals limited.
More often than not, a small segment of the flex ducting can be accessed, so cleaning really becomes a best attempt. Whenever possible, microbial impacted flex ducting should be replaced.
So once I clean the area with sprays and bleach and white vinegar and everything I have to remove the mold, then I should look deeper into the wall or take samples and send them off? @ 11:00
Samples are not always a requirement. Unless you can answer a question or confirm/deny a hypothesis by using a sample, laboratory analysis expenses can be better spent on remediation and rebuild.
If you're looking to confirm a successful completion of the remediation process, then yes, sampling would be effective at accomplishing that goal. The combination of air and surface samples can provide you with insight on the remainder of fungi within the environment. You may also look to renting a laser particle counter and ATP luminometer to look at the particles in the air and on surfaces. In most cases, analytical sampling for mold will be more cost effective and will provide data specific to mold.
instead of minimizing the air, can I maximize the air by opening the windows to remove the spores after I have killed spores with bleach and sprays? As I am guessing once the spores are dead I will be able to get rid of them easier without them spreading?
Due to the allergenic properties of mold, dead or alive mold can be just as impactful to your health. Not to mention that bleach would not be your ideal solution, if you were truly looking to kill all mold.
As far as air exchanges and airflow is concerned, there are many approaches. You can positively or negatively pressurize environments. You can also use natural ventilation by opening windows, however, I would not advise this. Unless you have consistent airflow from one direction, you will lose control of the environment and have fungal spores blowing all over the place.
How do you remove mold on basement foundation walls?
If we’re talking about the same thing, a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide would be your best friend, when it comes to remove growth from surfaces that are not smooth and easy enough to surface clean and damp wipe. Growth that has embedded itself into the substrate somewhat can also be lifted to the surface for HEPA vacuuming, using a system like Serum (hydrogen peroxide cleaning process).
So if a bedroom wall has mold deep into the wall then the whole wall needs cutting out and that's why it can become a lot more expensive? @12:17
Unfortunately, that may be the case. However, not always. One important factor when dealing with mold is the dose-response relationship. You may have mold within an environment and not exhibit any adverse reactions. While, some individuals may become very ill with even the smallest traces of mold indoors.
The best advice I can give you is the use your judgment. If mold sampling shows no abnormal fungal concentrations within the indoor air quality and no one living within the property is exhibiting any negative health effects, you may not need to go demolishing walls. Alternately, if the environment is not feeling adequate, you may very well need to undergo extensive mold remediation.
@@IAQJosh Thanks man, I think I'm just going to have a good go at killing as much of the mold as I possibly can then using my 25 liter dehumidifier with a hepa filter to help scrub the air?
Why not clean, use biocide and then epa sealant in addition to mold removal?
The question that I would ask you is why use a biocide, if something more mild would suffice - such as dawn dish soap used as a surfactant with water? Every situation is unique, so I wouldn’t necessarily say ye or ne toward any approach as a whole.
As far as sealants, I’m not opposed to encapsulating surfaces. However, my preference is always clear, and something that has a suitable perm rating. After all, we don’t want to trap moisture in surfaces and cause deterioration.
You gotta go for iicrc instructor for mold bro
Thank you for that comment! It’s on my “considerations” list, but certainly something that I’ve looked at.
In my dads bedroom, he has 2 radiators on the wall underneath each window, he only uses 1 radiator and the radiator that's he is using there is no mold near it, but the radiator that's off has loads of mold near it on the wall, so I am guessing I need to fix the mold issue then use both radiators instead of 1 to fix the damp/condensation issues?
There's a lot going on in your last statement... You may want to consider hiring a mold professional to evaluate the area you're referencing, as that would generally produce the best advice. If there is high humidity in the room and there's a subsequently high dew point, then you'll likely need to either dehumidify the environment or provide additional cooling and conditioning - if one unit is not sufficient in accomplishing this.
@@IAQJosh I bought a Meaco 25 liter dehumidifier but I am applying lots of bleach to try and kill the black mould around the caulk in the bathroom and on the window sills at the minute, once I have killed all of the mould should I start using it? I forgot to mention the dehumidifier also has a hepa filter built in 🙂
@@IAQJosh I wish I could afford to hire a mold professional but I just haven't got the money at the minute
@@IAQJosh If I am totally honest with you it is a rented property and it seems like the landlord doesn't care about the mold issues so I have no choice but to try and deal with it myself
This unfortunately happens to quite a number of renters out there, so you're not alone.
Yes Makes perfect sense! 55:02 ;-]
If the black mold isn't that bad in one room can I use bleach and sprays and stuff like that to kill the mold and then air the house out and open all of the windows to remove the spores and then use a dehumidifier with a hepa filter to help purify the air?
Hi Jordan. Professionally speaking, there are far better alternatives to bleach. Sodium hypochlorite (the active ingredient in bleach) is very effective when used as a mold stain remover, however, it's not ideal for remediation of mold. A hydrogen peroxide product would be more effective at lifting mold to the surfaces of materials, and soap and water is excellent for physical mold removal from surfaces.
@@IAQJosh Thank you for the response 🙂
@@JORDANDAVIES30 Anytime! Hope my response assist you.
I don't have much money and my landlord isn't good at dealing with black mold and stuff, So I'm wondering how can I do it myself as cheap as possible?
Depending on your exact needs and what you're looking to achieve, DIY cheap remediation may or may not be an option for you. With that said, acquiring the necessary materials and equipment can be done at relatively affordable rates. By building containment and removing/cleaning/etc. the mold yourself, you can certainly save a ton of money on labor. One of the most important factors is ensuring that you're able to perform this work safely. If there is any doubt in you doing so, I would not advise a DIY approach.
@@IAQJosh Thank you for the response dude, I am going to keep killing the mold with bleach. And with a bit of hydrogen peroxide like you recommended 🙂
@@JORDANDAVIES30 Be very weary using bleach… Bleach merely lightens the areas you’re cleaning. It’s not effective at getting to the root of the mold growth, so mold often grows back in those same areas.
@@IAQJosh What about on caulk around the bath? Will it kill the mould around the bath? I used bleach and toilet paper to keep the bleach wet and it made the caulk perfectly white like it had been re-caulked
@@IAQJosh Should I use some hydrogen peroxide on the caulk to help prevent it coming back?
Hi Josh Wintin can you make a video Tommorow
Hi Jeremy. Didn’t quite understand your question… would you mind clarifying what you’re looking for, please?
@@IAQJosh can you do a presentation video on air quality
Specifically what segment of indoor air quality are you thinking? The subject is quite broad.
What is the difference between mold remediation and air quality
@@IAQJosh what is the difference between mold remediation and air quality