easy method Knock sensor replacement Honda accord 2005 P0325 code
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 янв 2023
- I did this video to show a much easier way to replace the knock sensor on Honda accord 2005 model without the need to remove the intake tubes.
items needed
Knock sensor make Delphi $60
10inch long nose plier: $12
27mm socket $ 14
and most important patience and problemsolving. $0 
Наука
Your description was spot on! Very easy knock sensor replacement! Hardest part was the plug, but took 20 mins!
My man you are a wizard and an artist. Camera angles, lighting and explanation were all immaculate.
Thanks for your lovely feedback
Thanks for posting. I have about 429,668 miles on my 03 Accord EX 4 cyl. I watched several videos before attempting this. It took me less than 8 minutes to complete and saved a lot of $$ doing it myself. I used scotch tape to hold the new sensor in the 27mm socket as I hand-turned it into place. Removed tape from socket then snugged with ratchet. I did unhook the negative from battery in order for the engine light to go out. Runs so much smoother.
Great ingenuity with the clear tube to help put in new sensor. I got the old sensor out fairly easy, but having trouble threading the new sensor in. The 27mm socket is getting caught up on a rubber hose, making it way too hard to get the right angle on my 2004 accord
Update: I couldn’t find any tubing that size. My 13 year old son was able to thread the sensor in with just his hand. Small hands for the win!!! And I got to teach my son the value of learning to do things for yourself.
Next time turn left before you go right. It helps line up the threads. Saves you from cross threading as well. Do that with everything
Haahhah.....kids .....worth it.
I used this technique to do this job. Although This was a much better video than a few others I have seen trying to illustrate this, a major difference between my 2006 and this video was that under my intake manifold runners, there is a black plastic thing preventing you from looking between intake runners and seeing the sensor and it’s connector. This made the job much more difficult, causing tool clearance/entry/exiting problems also, and a nightmare to get the connector reconnected. I had so much more time into it that I would have spent less time on the job if I had just removed the intake manifold and done it that way. You will indeed need a deep socket, and my new sensor for some reason was a hair loose in the 12-point 1 1/16 socket; fortunately, I had a 6-point.
I agree. My 2005 fortunately did not have that plastic piece. So lucky I was able to complete the job sooner. But irony of life....few mo ths after I have change my starter motor and I was left with no choice other than to remove the intake manifold and replace with new seal. Glad you got the job completed.
When there’s a will there’s a way. Great approach and thought given. 😊
Great idea with the hose/tape to assist the install. I’ve got to do this job at the weekend, thanks for the tip.
All the best. With patience and the right tools....anything is possible 😀
Good video! Another way to give you more space would possiblly remove the fan. Especially if its only 2 bolts and one or 2 wire connectors. Also if the socket is too deep, you could stuff paper towel in it to take up extra space
The duct tape is hilarious. If anything, use masking or painters tape so your tools don't have sticky residue afterwards.
Alternatively, you could use a stick magnet to retrieve the sensor if it falls out of the socket.
When reinstalling (any threaded part), turn it counter-clockwise first until you hear/feel it *click*. Then, turn clockwise to tighten. There's only one 'entrance' on the threads of a machined screw/bolt. When you hear/feel the *click*, you've found it. Make sure the screw is straight, though!
You can even turn it counter-clockwise a number of times to make sure it's THE click before you start tightening.
I changed my knock sensor earlier this evening. Originally used a 3-in long 27mm socket, but it didn't fit--a hose behind the intake manifold prevented the socket from settling onto the old sensor. Used a shorter 1.5-in long 27mm socket and it worked.
Your video was a key source of info for my project. Thanks!
Did u do the whole taping the socket thing ?
@@theoma4576 No, I didn't duct tape the socket extensions--I trusted my locking extensions would hold together. However, after I got the old knock sensor off, I DID tape the new sensor to the end of a socket extension (without an attached socket), similar to what he does in the video with tubing.
You’re a life saver. Followed this method to a T
Thank you for your excellent explanation, and for your good camera work, lighting, and thoughtfulness. Also, it’ really clever the way you inserted the new knock sensor using a “tool” of plastic tubing. Tomorrow I’m going to follow your instructions to replace the knock sensor on my 2005 Honda CR-V. Hope it makes the engine warning light go off so the car will pass Calif. smog check! Thank you!
You are welcome. Goodluck.
Great video! thank you so much! I feel a bit more confident giving this a try.
I really appreciate this video- you’re creative!!
Excellent video, thanks for the clear detailed description.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the video. From Cyprus
So I have been working off and on to try and replace this dang sensor and I realized that in most videos it looks relatively easy. This is because most of the videos that show this job are not cursed with a chamber assembly. So if anybody is having trouble seeing through their intake manifold, that is why. I hope this helps others who share my struggle, as I have been operating mostly blind while I do this. Also, for reference I have an 07 accord 4 cyl. Apparently they only have the chamber assembly on some 06, and 07 models.
Thank you for your video. It was very insightful!
Great video! Saved me time and money. Thank you!
You did an nice job with one hand. I gave you thumbs up.
Excellent video!
Excellent video🎉🎉
Great job! Great video. I think I got this!
The best of all ones.
Thank you for this video! I got the same code. Am going to replace asap 👍
EXCELLENT video.
Thanks your the man
Nice way to do it 👍
Well done! Thank you!
Great tips
Look interesting that way done
Thankz
Do NOT use an aftermarket Knock Sensor - Use Honda OEM, even if you have to pull it from a yard. The aftermarket (I used a Delphi) ones do not clear the engine code!!!
I totally agree. Most Honda OEM parts are designed to be super sensitive for accurate readings. Aftermarket ones can keep throwing codes.
good job
Thank you 😊 good video
You are welcome.
Thank you
Thank you so very much.
You are welcome
Genius
This was a good method for me I think my biggest issue was getting the socket off after tightening the sensor but got it eventually…not sure if there’s an hack for that..
I don't know what you call it, but it's the part where the latch is to the hood. The part you dangerously use as a shelf for your tools. .You can take off the nuts etc, and pop those couple of tac point. You can then lift and push back that back. it will give you about two inches more of room to get your arm in there and get it done easier. Otherwise, it's a bear.
So you can reach in to plug the connector, but need a needle nose and a hose for the other steps?
100% you need a long nose plier.
The locking extension are cool to use instead of tape
Guys like this dont have the desire to do good work, guys like these destroy peoples cars😂
@@aarontapatio2257 Just because you have a cabinet with $50k worth of tools doesn't make you a better mechanic, it just means you aren't smart enough to improvise and think outside the box.
Does anyone know the severity of this issue. I scanned my car and it said to change the sensor as soon as possible if I had driving issues. That it could damage the main system.
Do you have or can make video to change sway bar BUSHING For the same car?
Will try.
I was about to start on the repair but i have a 2006 and it has a platic piece below the intake manifold, making it impossible to see the knock sensor, looks like i have to remove the im.😢
That sucks.....any way....removing manifold is not too difficult, see my other video regarding changing starter motor....I had shown how to remove intake. Make sure to get a new gasket.
Do you think I ordered too long a pliers? I ordered a 13 in needle nose and am planning to do this job over the weekend
Yes. 13 inch will be a bit long.
@@balak1715 crap. I'll have to order a shorter one then I guess. Thank you for getting back to me
@garrettsontag7813 try getting 10 inch long pliers. Don't forget to watch my other video on the exact torque. Thats is super freakin important
@@balak1715 will do! Thank you.
Is this roughly the same for b20 motors?
Is it for Honda CRV ? What year?
Ty for your video, I did everything but the check engine is still on 😢
Hey. Did you use a code reader to first make sure it's knock sensor code? Also did you make sure to use exact torque? My engine light came on within 1 day, then I noticed I torqued it too tight. So I used a torque wrench to get the exact torque as per my vehicle specification. If you did everything but still P0325 code came back, then I would look at the knock sensor wire harness which could be worn out. Goodluck.
Make sure you reset the codes and erase the old 0325. It doesn't reset by itself.
Can you provide an update on this? Did you simply have to reset the codes?
I didn’t use an original part, I didn’t use a torque wrench and I didn’t reset the codes. So the light is still on. I’m planning to buy an original part and do everything people suggest here.
Got ya thanks for the feedback. You can reset the code easy at any napa for free- Just in case its working well and not triggering the code since you replaced. I think a little tighter then hand tight is the proper torque. Has it been driving better since you replaced? @@jandreshernandez1657
I like it my block is stripped naked about to dress it up not worried if i need to do this later easy peezy ill pre lube the connector when assembling
When ordering, what is the part number?
30530-PPL-A01
Did anybody else struggle with getting the sensor out after the connector? I got the connector after taking a much needed break but the sensor seems to be ratcheted in so tight. Do I need to get a beaker bar?
Oh boy. If the knock is so tight....that's too much torque. You can sure use a breaker bar, when you install the new one, ensure to use correct torque.
INTAKE MANIFOLD. ITS MADE OF METAL. HOSES ARENT MADE OF METAL.
If you can change the knock sensor on a Honda without taking the manifold off, you're qualified to do neurosurgery.
Hahaha....thanks for your lovely comment
Wow wtf😂 never let this guy work on your car😂
An explanation would be appreciated....
Why not?
Context? Seems most people are very happy with the results