Respect man. I hope you know what a mamoth tool you've build. There are not a lot of craftsman who have the balls to star a project like this. Followed the build since the very first video and I am really impressed. Now is the yime to start and build a lathe. Greetings from 🇽🇰 Kosovo
Love the smoke circles when you show your real life welding. I miss too! We are not full time welders. 😁 I loved following your work. Now to use your machine. ANd maybe find things to improve I am guessing. Mark
Project will continue untill I officially say STOP ;) Welding without looking is difficult :P both hands were needed. I have to buy automatic welding mask
@@ZVO1996 I don't know yet. I need a small (6 ton capacity) transshipment trailer for grain. Lathe is also one of machines I would like to build but small one with 700 mm of bed length
@@sk1ppie506 Squareness between X and Y axis is 0.01/500 [mm] I think is good enough for my needs. Squareness between XY plane and Z axis was set only with machinist square. I don't have proper tools to check how good (or bad) it is. For the machine made with angle grinder and stick welder it's quite good result. It won't be doing any extremely precise works.
I'm guessing that after a few weeks of manual handle twiddling, the next mechanical update on this will be adding an electric variable speed power feed (as minimum) to the X axis. :)
@@SteelCraft99 I made a simple power feed for my 90 year old "Mini lathe" a few years back. I got the lathe without any change gears, but luckily it still had it's lead screw in place. The power feed started out as nothing more than a 2 speed car wiper motor, a couple of toothed pulleys with a belt, a piece of angle iron, an old car battery, and some switches (slow/fast and forwards/backwards), but over time it's received few more addons as suitable parts have turned up free or cheep. The setups now got a dedicated 18V power supply, a PWM motor speed controller, and a couple of end stop microswitches. For something that cost peanuts to put together it's been a brilliant upgrade, and on 18V the wiper motor has easily enough torque to keep going through some quite "ambitious" cut depths without even getting hot.
@@Reman1975 I have two motors from cordless drills, I'm going to add extra gearbox with electromagnetic clutch and use them with PWM controllers for X and Y. Z Axis needs something more powerfull
What I can say is that it's alot of weight in steel and alot of money in all that steel. You have done a very good job good precision work but I don't see any saddle locks that would help you in that milling process. Well done 👍
@@nickpowers2528 Saddle locks are those screws which push the gib and block movements? I made them on every guide in this machine. I didn't lock anything except ram, because I wanted to see where eventual problem can be.
Mega projekt i super wyszlo, teraz jakis zestaw przystawek zrobic w kolejnych odcinkach :D Outomatyczny posuw (zobacz sobie pomysl z dluga nasadka jako "sprzęgło") Flycutter jakis duzy Moze nawet proste cnc zrobic do tego czy adapter udarowy do odkrecania uchwytow
Elektroposuwy obowiązkowo, tylko ze sprzęgłem elektromagnetycznym, pompa chlodziwa, mały wbudowany kompresor, DRO - jest tego jeszcze :D Flycutter będzie robiony napewno. Cnc odpada, umiem troche w CAM, trochę kontaktu z poważnymi obrabiarkami też miałem, tak do domu to średnio mi się to widzi. Może jakąś małą jako osobny projekt już na śrubach kulowych i prowadnicach szynowych. Adapter udarowy fajna rzecz, może kiedyś się pokuszę. Ciekawe jakby ze stożkiem morse'a sobie radził.
zawsze można pokombinować "analogowo" posuw silnikiem krokowym - za pare zł żeby ktoś ogarnął (chodź pewnie czat gpt też by dał rade) żeby mieć arduino sterujące 2 osiami tak ze np ustawiasz sobie "20 obrotów X po wykonaniu 2 obroty Y i zmiana kierunku X" i tak w pętli czy coś / wykonaj "x" ilość razy -- lub po prostu sterownik na potencjometr ale wtedy bez Y chyba ze by się trafił taki co umożliwia włącznikiem zmianę kierunku pracy silnika (jako krancówka) + dla Y osobna z czasowo aktywowanym silnikiem po wciśnięciu że sobie ustawiasz na oko jak długo ma się kręcić Y po wciśnięciu krańcówki (pewnie by trzeba mieć 2 obok siebie jedna dla X druga Y) wtedy byś mógł mieć ruch w pętli lewo góra prawo góra i tylko pilnować żeby się wyłączyło pod koniec (ogólnie wykonalne na silnikach szczotkowych w ten sam sposób ale gorzej ze stabilnością RPM) adapter udarowy jak na morsa to dają podkładki sprężynujące które wypychają stożek sam adapter działa jak zwykły klucz udarowy tylko że na sprężynie podtrzymywany u góry nie spięty z nakrętką , dopiero jak siłownik go dopchnie na nakrętkę to załącza obrót klucza udarowego - fajna rzecz i dość prosta w wykonaniu , można nawet użyć klucza akumulatorowego (ale pierdzielenia się z zasilaniem bo jak bezszczotka 20v to przy 15v się odcina a 24v może spalić długoterminowo --- optymalnie to 18-20v (a min 16v , max 21v- niektóre serwerowe 12v da się podkręcić do 17v to by mógł zadziałać ale min z 1kw mocy żeby miał ...albo walić i za 250 aku 8ah parkszajsa )
wha? Did this not start from a bridgeport head? I actually did a double take when I saw the head start drilling holes in the base because it looked so professionally done.
Hi! Congratulations on your first chip! Amazing content as always! If I understand correctly, the 50mm face mill did not have enough ram rigidity and bearing preload? The issue with rigidity can most likely be resolved by scraping, but to create the correct preload in the bearings, you will most likely have to change the design of individual elements of the vertical head, perhaps even modify or make a new spindle :( But, I believe that everything will work out for you and your machine, after all the modifications, will confidently mill 100mm face mill ;)
Thanks! This is a reason why I didn't painted the milling head. I'm going to build improved one. I checked connections with dial indicator. When I was applying force to the head I was loosing 0.05 between turret and column connection (this big circle). So on the distance of whole ram It gets 0.2mm - that's a lot. It wasn't even machined surface. I have a plan how to machine and then scrape it. Spindle shaft itself isn't big enough for 100mm face mill 😅
@@SteelCraft99 Very interesting. Do you want to use a Morse taper to Morse taper adapter welded to a round steel piece and lathe to make a spindle? I plan to use this method because the Chinese router spindle is longer than I need for my vertical router head. Yes, 0.2 is a very large gap, but you know, I started restoring my milling machine, and as I said, the rails are in good condition, but only the X and Z rails (at least visually they look good, I'll measure them later), the Y rails have a lot of wear and scuffing and it’s clearly not 0.2mm, more like 0.5mm :((You should at least scrape less ;) Homemade tool holder and you can milling 150mm face mill... Plastic only, of course XD I think that 72-80mm face mill can be used for steel milling, but not for aggressive milling like a 3-5mm depth for the pass
I will dissasemble shaft from current one and simply cut the thread behind rear bearing with threading die. There is enough space between bearing and spline shaft part.
![DIY Milling Machine Build [Based on Bridgeport]. Part 15: Control panel, DRO, VFD, way covers.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rS24uxNFOkc/mqdefault.jpg)
![DIY Milling Machine Build [Based on Bridgeport]. Part 15: Control panel, DRO, VFD, way covers.](/img/tr.png)
![DIY Milling Machine Build [Based on Bridgeport]. Part 16: First batch of improvements.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VfGQIVOOhpc/mqdefault.jpg)
![DIY Milling Machine Build [Based on Bridgeport]. Part 7: Turret](/img/1.gif)
You are a legend dude. I'm so impressed by this machine. Hope to see a diy lathe next!
Thanks!
Lathe comment no.3. It starts to get serious :P
@@SteelCraft99 Lathe comment #4, which is actually where things escalate! Mind and soul start to build up power for the next big move! 🙌
Full respect what a build, speaking from my machine tool background, again full respect to you, 👍🇬🇧 from Coventry in the UK.
Thank you!
Your vision, dedication and work ethic is a wonder to behold. Thank you very much.
Respect man. I hope you know what a mamoth tool you've build. There are not a lot of craftsman who have the balls to star a project like this. Followed the build since the very first video and I am really impressed. Now is the yime to start and build a lathe.
Greetings from 🇽🇰 Kosovo
Lathe comment no.4 :D
Thanks!
You made a amazing tool 🙂 I hope you got a new project when you have finished the mill. Cheers from Denmark
Not finished yet!
Next projects are waiting for execution ;)
Love the smoke circles when you show your real life welding. I miss too! We are not full time welders. 😁 I loved following your work. Now to use your machine. ANd maybe find things to improve I am guessing.
Mark
Project will continue untill I officially say STOP ;)
Welding without looking is difficult :P both hands were needed. I have to buy automatic welding mask
That´s incredible! You did a dezent job. Next I would use that mill to build an improved one and sell the first!
Who would buy DIY milling machine ;)
I want to go further with improving this one.
Metal lathe build coming in season 2 😁
Lathe comment no. 2 haha
@@SteelCraft99 If serious, do you want build engine lathe next? Or it's a secret?
@@ZVO1996 I don't know yet. I need a small (6 ton capacity) transshipment trailer for grain. Lathe is also one of machines I would like to build but small one with 700 mm of bed length
This is brilliant... subbed here for sure!
That is amazing my friend, you have done a great job it is master project. I also want to make this for my workshop too.😊😊😊
Great work! Next you need to make a Lathe! when you have this two tools u dont have to buy stuff u just can make it by yourself!
Thanks!
Aaand we have another lathe comment haha :D
@@SteelCraft99 it would be very intertessting to see the accuracy of the machine. 1/100 of mm?
@@sk1ppie506 Squareness between X and Y axis is 0.01/500 [mm] I think is good enough for my needs. Squareness between XY plane and Z axis was set only with machinist square. I don't have proper tools to check how good (or bad) it is. For the machine made with angle grinder and stick welder it's quite good result. It won't be doing any extremely precise works.
Next you just need a lathe so you can turn shafts. Shall that be a homemade South Bend, or maybe a Myford?
Lathe you say... hmm
Best DIY milling machine👍
I'm guessing that after a few weeks of manual handle twiddling, the next mechanical update on this will be adding an electric variable speed power feed (as minimum) to the X axis. :)
I planned to do electric power feed on all axes ;) But I will do it probably as a last one.
@@SteelCraft99 I made a simple power feed for my 90 year old "Mini lathe" a few years back. I got the lathe without any change gears, but luckily it still had it's lead screw in place. The power feed started out as nothing more than a 2 speed car wiper motor, a couple of toothed pulleys with a belt, a piece of angle iron, an old car battery, and some switches (slow/fast and forwards/backwards), but over time it's received few more addons as suitable parts have turned up free or cheep. The setups now got a dedicated 18V power supply, a PWM motor speed controller, and a couple of end stop microswitches.
For something that cost peanuts to put together it's been a brilliant upgrade, and on 18V the wiper motor has easily enough torque to keep going through some quite "ambitious" cut depths without even getting hot.
@@Reman1975 I have two motors from cordless drills, I'm going to add extra gearbox with electromagnetic clutch and use them with PWM controllers for X and Y. Z Axis needs something more powerfull
What I can say is that it's alot of weight in steel and alot of money in all that steel. You have done a very good job good precision work but I don't see any saddle locks that would help you in that milling process.
Well done 👍
@@nickpowers2528 Saddle locks are those screws which push the gib and block movements? I made them on every guide in this machine. I didn't lock anything except ram, because I wanted to see where eventual problem can be.
Very impressive! Why did you decide to build instead of buy one, was it for the challenge?
I wanted to build one so badly :P I also used it as my engineer degree thesis.
Mega projekt i super wyszlo, teraz jakis zestaw przystawek zrobic w kolejnych odcinkach :D
Outomatyczny posuw (zobacz sobie pomysl z dluga nasadka jako "sprzęgło")
Flycutter jakis duzy
Moze nawet proste cnc zrobic do tego czy adapter udarowy do odkrecania uchwytow
Elektroposuwy obowiązkowo, tylko ze sprzęgłem elektromagnetycznym, pompa chlodziwa, mały wbudowany kompresor, DRO - jest tego jeszcze :D
Flycutter będzie robiony napewno.
Cnc odpada, umiem troche w CAM, trochę kontaktu z poważnymi obrabiarkami też miałem, tak do domu to średnio mi się to widzi. Może jakąś małą jako osobny projekt już na śrubach kulowych i prowadnicach szynowych.
Adapter udarowy fajna rzecz, może kiedyś się pokuszę. Ciekawe jakby ze stożkiem morse'a sobie radził.
zawsze można pokombinować "analogowo" posuw silnikiem krokowym - za pare zł żeby ktoś ogarnął (chodź pewnie czat gpt też by dał rade) żeby mieć arduino sterujące 2 osiami tak ze np ustawiasz sobie "20 obrotów X po wykonaniu 2 obroty Y i zmiana kierunku X" i tak w pętli czy coś / wykonaj "x" ilość razy -- lub po prostu sterownik na potencjometr ale wtedy bez Y chyba ze by się trafił taki co umożliwia włącznikiem zmianę kierunku pracy silnika (jako krancówka) + dla Y osobna z czasowo aktywowanym silnikiem po wciśnięciu że sobie ustawiasz na oko jak długo ma się kręcić Y po wciśnięciu krańcówki (pewnie by trzeba mieć 2 obok siebie jedna dla X druga Y) wtedy byś mógł mieć ruch w pętli lewo góra prawo góra i tylko pilnować żeby się wyłączyło pod koniec (ogólnie wykonalne na silnikach szczotkowych w ten sam sposób ale gorzej ze stabilnością RPM)
adapter udarowy jak na morsa to dają podkładki sprężynujące które wypychają stożek
sam adapter działa jak zwykły klucz udarowy tylko że na sprężynie podtrzymywany u góry nie spięty z nakrętką , dopiero jak siłownik go dopchnie na nakrętkę to załącza obrót klucza udarowego - fajna rzecz i dość prosta w wykonaniu , można nawet użyć klucza akumulatorowego (ale pierdzielenia się z zasilaniem bo jak bezszczotka 20v to przy 15v się odcina a 24v może spalić długoterminowo --- optymalnie to 18-20v (a min 16v , max 21v- niektóre serwerowe 12v da się podkręcić do 17v to by mógł zadziałać ale min z 1kw mocy żeby miał ...albo walić i za 250 aku 8ah parkszajsa )
Zawsze można kupić klucz udarowy na 220V
wha? Did this not start from a bridgeport head? I actually did a double take when I saw the head start drilling holes in the base because it looked so professionally done.
@@user-cg3em4cw4f I'm trying my best
Mistrz!
Hi! Congratulations on your first chip! Amazing content as always! If I understand correctly, the 50mm face mill did not have enough ram rigidity and bearing preload? The issue with rigidity can most likely be resolved by scraping, but to create the correct preload in the bearings, you will most likely have to change the design of individual elements of the vertical head, perhaps even modify or make a new spindle :( But, I believe that everything will work out for you and your machine, after all the modifications, will confidently mill 100mm face mill ;)
Thanks!
This is a reason why I didn't painted the milling head. I'm going to build improved one.
I checked connections with dial indicator. When I was applying force to the head I was loosing 0.05 between turret and column connection (this big circle). So on the distance of whole ram It gets 0.2mm - that's a lot. It wasn't even machined surface. I have a plan how to machine and then scrape it.
Spindle shaft itself isn't big enough for 100mm face mill 😅
@@SteelCraft99 Very interesting. Do you want to use a Morse taper to Morse taper adapter welded to a round steel piece and lathe to make a spindle? I plan to use this method because the Chinese router spindle is longer than I need for my vertical router head. Yes, 0.2 is a very large gap, but you know, I started restoring my milling machine, and as I said, the rails are in good condition, but only the X and Z rails (at least visually they look good, I'll measure them later), the Y rails have a lot of wear and scuffing and it’s clearly not 0.2mm, more like 0.5mm :((You should at least scrape less ;) Homemade tool holder and you can milling 150mm face mill... Plastic only, of course XD
I think that 72-80mm face mill can be used for steel milling, but not for aggressive milling like a 3-5mm depth for the pass
I will dissasemble shaft from current one and simply cut the thread behind rear bearing with threading die. There is enough space between bearing and spline shaft part.
hell yea
it looks amazing
Efforts are so impressive, but why not to buy and restore much more rigid used Bridgeport??
@@georgeukrainsky9352 I wanted to build one. I learnt a lot thru this project.
Советую поискать нормальную специальную пластину для шабрения , после напильника сразу почувствуете разницу , ну и камни алмазные для заточки .
teach me master!
👍