Zero Clearance Insert For the Miter Saw
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2021
- How to make a zero clearance insert for the miter saw. In this short video I show you how I made a zero clearance insert for my Bosch miter saw to eliminate tear-out while cross cutting wood. Most miter saws will come with a standard insert that has a large gap that will not support the wood piece while cutting, creating tear-out. By making a zero clearance insert you can be sure that your next crosscut will be clean.
My Miter Saw : amzn.to/3KmO8Te
Super Glue I used : amzn.to/3MqGfOw
To watch the full video and details instructions on making it click on this link • Zero clearance insert ...
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#mitersaw #zerocleranceinsert #shorts 
Хобби
For people who are unfamiliar with zero clearance inserts, this has a few benefits:
-reduces breakout on the bottom of the cut
-allows cutting smaller pieces (that would normally fall in)
-prevents small cuts from falling in (kinda the same as above)
-helps aim your blade so u know exactly where it will cut
Its the same as before. Zero difference. If you want lined up, set your saw down on your board.
@@charlespanache7047 incorrect
Smart man
I wish they made these already with the zero clearance. I can't really imagine why they don't. Having a small piece inside can be kind of scary when it turns into a projectile
@@OtherDalfite well if you tilt the blade for a compund angle, the opening will widen, so this is really ideal for zero tilt cuts. This is probably why manufacturers don't make zero clearance. But if you need to make a straight cut, this certainly has benefits.
You might be able to make a zero clearance insert just for 45 degree cuts. Haven't tried it.
Guitar builders tip: Put masking tape on your pieces before gluing up for the router. Then there's no glue residue on your pieces when you separate them. It's on the masking tape for disposal.
Thats good wisdom
Also a great tip for metal workers, as a hobby machinist it is an awesome trick for some applications.
But if you forget to do this you can use oil to remove the residue. Rubbing alcohol works too
Ty I'll use this tip sooner or later
@Joe Huerta I mean he can always change them back out so maybe it does matter.
I love how he put the detail into sanding and giving it a good stain to make it look pretty. 😎
Well pretty and effective and longer lasting
On the last close up that wood looked to be a well sanded un stained piece of walnut or mahogany. 🤷🏻♂️
What was it?
It's the natural wood color, no stain was applied.
The whole reason for this was no breakout at the back of the cut. ( shown at the end )
What do you mean? What ‘ differences’ did creating this ‘do’ differently than the factory piece?
@@aaronreid1183atyahoocom no breakout on the back... Like be said.
Great u til he does a mitre cut and widens the gap
@@aaronreid1183atyahoocom the ‘frayed’ cut that you usually get from the factory plate
Aka burring
I used the clearance insert to create the clearance insert
Impossible
I had a stroke reading this because I thought create was clear and it hurt me
@@BRUH2004FTW Like I used the create insert to clear the create insert
Oh fuck…
*points* I understood that reference
everyone’s hating but this thing looks beautiful who cares if he has to take it out.
Those hating it have no idea how that saw works in the first place, making their opinions worthless.
It’s okay, those who are mad have no idea what it’s used for lol. It honestly takes like 2 minutes to change it out so I don’t see what people are mad about lol
@@quantamzero7919 at the risk of sounding stupid...why would it need to come out?
I never thought of using this for my miter saw (until now).
@@Jiambo it will only work for vertical cuts, can’t put the place on an angle without replacing it
@@Rockdoon thanks I was wondering the same thing. Pretty new to wood working but that doesn't seem that bad of a draw back at all.
Let me be the first to say, I need to make that.
Not only is it 0 clearance. It looks swag
Nobody says that
@@joshdees multiple people have said that
@@joshdees they just said it
Yesssss
It looks swag...Lol. Thats not a thing 🤣.
I feel the need to dig my saw out now just to do this even tho I don't need to use it
The piece you machined had cool figuring but the one you installed didn't.
Ya I actually made multiple ones.
@@KomarProject did it clog up?
@@Jaksmodteam 9
@@Jaksmodteam why would it clog up?
@@WannabeOperator i just noticed the old one that was removed had a huge gap and i assume it would help throw the wood out the back with air flow. I assume if it started to clog the saw blade would remove the wood that is clogged but then the blade would clog causing the cut to be rough as if the blade was dull. Im not sure why the manufacturer of the saw would make such a huge ugly gap if this could be done.
Make more for the compound cuts and post every one of them. I got time.
I mean you could probably just make a few for the average cuts and just deal with the stock jig for the rest🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Just tilt your phone 30 or 45 degrees
I’m just sitting on the toilet at 3 am just watching this in awe.
Tell your doctor at your next visit, if your bowels continue waking you up at 3am.
Dammit, there I go again...I know it's not about that but, I can't help it, I'm a nurse.
(I'm a hoot at parties...lol)
@@okAngelface haha you’re good, I’m normally up until like 4 am
A man went to his doctor and when the doctor asked what was wrong the man said “well doc it’s like this; every morning at 8:00am on the nose I have a huge bowel movement” the doctor said “okay? That’s great, so what’s the problem?” The man said “ I don’t wake up til 10!”
8:30 for me
Funny that me to 👍
Fantastic!! You need a separate one for compound cuts though!
I knew there was a reason saws don’t come like this so I scrolled the comments til I found this. Ah ha makes sense now.
Now make it out of plexi, (make few of them)and glue some .5 mm neodymium magnets on that plate at every screw. so it’s easily swappable for when you need to cut angles.
As far as screw holes in saw, put in some ground down bolts with much smaller heads and match deck height on everything.
That would be a nice setup to have. Sounds difficult to do it right.
@@BassGoThump not really, if you check the polarity of the magnets you can just do what he did in the video with plexi or another material
@@atom6486 uhmw or delrin
Whoa the magnet part seems pretty genius to me.
Or you could do what pro trim carpenters do and set your board ontop of a scrap piece of sacrificial wood. I would only make a flush insert if I had hundreds of cuts to make one after the other because time is money.
Very nice! Only thing I do different is use double sided carpet tape instead of CA glue. Easier to remove and no damage.
Me : what power tools do you have in your workshop?
Workshop guy: yes
This is all pretty standard stuff in a wood workshop if you dont use hand tools, we had all of that in a wood working class I took, and more
Thank you for explaining that. I was clueless as to what he was doing that for.👍🏻
So I have no proof of this but there's something elegant about using the tool the part is going to be used on to finish it. It's super satisfying watching them make that first cut.
Wel he has to
Man that’s gorgeous, never knew this was a thing.
That looks cool af
Didn’t understand why this insert was useful until I watched it a few times and saw how clean the bottom of the cut edge was. Brilliant!
@yuoop noke Maybe to accomodate a wider circular accessory to put on the saw spindle.
I've always wondered why they can't just come like this.
Because then when you try to use the bevel, you can’t.
You can't "tilt" the saw. I mean you can, technically since this is wood but if it was metal it'd be pretty hectic.
Put it on 45° and you know
Apprentices that ride a droosaw handle like there steering into a fucking burm
Isn't that what the slots are for on the original plastic item?
I was just as impressed at the variety of tools this brother has! Awesome tool shop!!
すごいですね！
切る場所が一目瞭然👍
Great idea.
I was constantly annoyed by the movement of my mitre saw.
Thanks for this idea
I just put a scrap piece of wood underneath whatever i am cutting to prevent breakout. But nice work.
Right!!!
Much easier than switching EVERTIME ya wuna do angles.
Especially if it's on the same project 😜
This isn't fast forward, the guy actually moves this fast.
Superman
Looks nice, usually use plexiglass for zero clearance though myself
When you have the right tools and the right attitude nothing can stop you.
Cuando quiera hacer cortes a 45° de inclinación, se le va a complicar
Preparas otra guía y listo…
El punto es que te deje lo menos que sea posible de astillas y el corte sea mucho más limpio…
Me ahorro el escribir el comentario usted sí sabe
@@MrThompis trabajo haciendo carpintería interior no tenemos tiempo para estar cambiando
Considering I have the exact same saw, and I have been saying I need to make one since I got it back February 2016 ... I'm pretty much on shedule to make one just before I replace it it... lol
Hahahaha just like fixing a house. You do it before you sell lol
At first I was like such wasted effort, then it made me a believer! Your cuts wouldn't even be a thousandths off! I salute you, sir. I'll be doing this from now on! (Genius)
You actually did something good and posted it. You deserve a medal
I STIIILLL need to make one of these 🤦♂️😆
Get on it brother
@@KomarProject o I will!! .... just after I completely redo my whole shop 😬 😂
Missing one very important step. Make a template for future replacements or your back to doing all this again.
You can use the new insert as the template going forward. Since it dosent cut all the way though you can just use that one.
True. But best practice is to never make a copy from a copy. You should always make a copy from the original.
@@KomarProject the world is full of geniuses that don’t know their butts from a hole in the ground. Lol.
Great job.
Muy buena idea.
Sencilla.
Eficaz.
BRILLANTE
Excelentes terminaciones.
Gracias
You do realize the original plastic inserts are adjustable to close the gap right?
By no more than a 1/4 on each side....Not enough to get rid of the tear out that occurs on miter saws. The wood insert is 100% necessary
The original is weak
The wood also looks much nicer than a plastic piece
@@JamesTheFurst Absolutely
And you don't loose little cuts to the base
Very nice insert. 👍
Veryniceinsert.
I have the 12in Bosch gliding compound miter for sale in Edmonds WA. I wanted this so bad when it first came out. So on Christmas it was under the tree. Injuries prevented me from every using the saw to replace all of the trim in the house. Sadly this amazing saw sat on my long work bench I modified to fit it. For several years she lay hidden under cover, like all of my power tools. Last year, like thousands of other couples, divorce stuck in our home. This awesome saw is in storage. I am finally ready to accept my physical injuries and limitations. Thus I just need to sell her to someone who will enjoy all of the amazing features this single finger operation saw has to offer.
Cheers!
Been running this exact saw for a couple years will be headed to garage to make one of these today !
If only I have thicknesser
I don't get it, what was the point of doing that? Now when you angle the blade you'll have to put the plastic back on or cut through the wood
They think it reduces tear-out. I don't think it really does much of anything.
@@CeeJayThe13th then you’ve never tried it.
@@CeeJayThe13th It 100% reduces tear out.
@@4TheFellas if you have tear out, your crowding the saw (sawing too fast) or dull blade....
@@harveymanfrantinsingin7373 agreed, and Don't call me stupid!
Whatever he did was cool and with all the tool movements going on was just sweet.
Holy moly i cant get home fast enough to do that!!! Thanks
That is the same Bosch saw I used to build my my first house it was a great saw that built many houses. It has now been retired from the job and is in the shop for the around the house projects
I always admire, and impressed with builders.
I should have been a house builder. 😕
Pardon my ignorance... but in which way does this make the cut better?
As above, i have no knowledge in working wood, hence the question...
It also allows you to know exactly the place of the cut, like instead of messing with the stopper each time you just measure on the face that will be presented towards you in the cut and which side of the line you need it to be on, idk I’m lazy and that’s how I would use it
@@goldenbacon oooh ok, now i get it. Basically there's no space for any splinter to form as the piece is pressed on the (in this case) wooden panel, while with the previous gap there would ALWAYS be splinters forming, no matter how slow you feed the cut.
Nice, thanks for the explanation.
More teeth on the blade can help too, but this is probably the best way to mitigate tearout
Makes very little difference,,ocd
@@rickputney5572 depends on your tool quality and skill level.
Works like a charm. It was beneficial for me big time when I did it.
Awesome fix. Much cleaner cut, without splintering. 😎👍
Did he seal the wood or anything afterward? I would imagine that those get replaced quite often with bare wood exposed
I’m sure he had to put something on it, but the woods not being really beat on much so it probably wouldn’t matter.
Paste wax is best.
Only ok for straight cuts, 45° bevel cut and you are back to square one
... And? It's not like you (JB) weld this insert in place. But if you do a lot of cuts at one bevel, like 45°, you could just as easily make another one for that, too.
@@pr0xZen yea but imagine having to change out inserts during a job... very time consuming
Just make another one. If you noticed he kept the other insert as well too so he can keep using it as well
@@c117ls7 I think you under estimate how long it would take to swap that out
@@anthonyspinozzi1312 true but a pain to keep swapping them a sharp blade or cutting on top of waste timber is simpler. Most hardwoods cut without ripping the back, also a sliding arm also is designed to stop it. Cut from front too back. Nice project though, not knocking it if you have time to kill
Dude well done I’m gonna do this with mine 😂🤣🤣 thanks man!!!
Great idea! I will do this tomorrow on my chop saw!
Damn! I am, definitely, making one for my miter saw. I have hated the gap in the plate. It is spongy, not level, and everything that I remove less than half an inch falls inside the table and will, often, prevent full table rotation. Thank you for the inspiration.
Don't know if you need to saw at angles but if you do than keep that in mind. (That is why the original has a bigger hole so you can cut at different angles without swapping plates.)
I like all the sounds best, especially when he's separating with the chisel. Is that bad?
Weirdo
no
Wow that's what I call a work of art, I would love to do this to my miter box.
LOVE this. 👏👏👏
It still has blow out at the back... just make a 90° with to pieces and set on top of saw.
You nailed it 👍🏽✌🏽
U gonna get that same cuts when u start doing 45 angle cuts 🤷🏽♂️
The whole thing spins with the blade. The blade is always center.
@@seasgarage not if you do an angled miter cut.
@@seasgarage 🤦🏻♂️
@@seasgarage I think you don't understand what a miter cut is.
"Hey Dad, lemme use your chop saw, gotta lop up this 2x4 for somethin"
rreeNYAHP...
rreeNYAHP...
I love little shop tricks make the biggest difference.
I’m certainly no master carpenter, but this seems like a lot of extra work. How about just using a piece of scrap plywood under the small item to be cut? This would provide best protection against breakouts/splinters while preventing anything small from falling through, and you can cut at any angle. If you’re making multiple cuts that are the same, just clamp it or glue it down.
Agree he could just fix a piece of wood on the saw with out all this.
It's a lot more wasted wood by doing that. If you're cutting hundreds of boards then you need hundreds of cuts worth of scrap. Not to mention that it will raise up the board off the miter surface, causing it to bend if it's longer.
@@anthonyspinozzi1312 one piece of scrap, clamped to saw, saw cut through small objects over and over again into same slot it cut the first time…only one piece of scrap…easy…turn piece of scrap and use for a different cut angle…I think you all just like looking at pretty wood things and not so much about using tools.
Zero inserts are nice . But with a good blade you won't splinter anyway
Loved your scrap piece nice looking stuff if you have access mdf material makes a nice cheap one its real consistent thickness and machines well.nice video thanks for your work
I will never get this time back. The hardest way possible.
Great Bart! I love the 60 second format for tips like that. I finally got myself a Bosch glide miter saw and did this a couple weeks ago with the intermediary step of making a template from MDF. You saved a couple steps there. Well done.
Do you love it like I do?
@@KomarProject What do you think? Short of buying a Kapex (reputedly has little fairies that come out and vacuum up individual specs of sawdust) it is definitely the best saw. With a Forrest blade on it I don't know of another saw in it's class.
Do a bevel cut and see how your new hard wrks. Slick
Why? This is only beneficial to a constant 90° mitre. Every degree of compound cuts will make the gap wider.
At which point he can…
Oh Idk
_replace the insert with the old one?_
There are benefits to having the zero clearance insert. Besides, a huge majority of the cuts made are 90 degrees anyway
@@cassandra_classic So you have to go through the hassle of switching it out every single time you need to make a miter cut on a miter saw... Outside of really simple projects you will need to frequently cut miters. The vast majority of cuts don’t need the benefits of zero clearance / the same benefits could be achieved by frequently changing your blade and cutting more slowly.
@@adamdodds144 frequently changing your blade? Sounds expensive. I'll take 2 minutes to change out the insert for free and still get less chip out. For as little as it would need to be swapped for a few miter cuts here and there, it's not that big of deal.
Actually pretty genius
I don't know why but this made so much sense.
That's the problem with a lot of equipment nowadays. You basically have to spend like the first entire week after buying a new machine fixing it and refining it so that it actually does what they use to do in the 50s
Wrong
why isn’t this how they come from the manufacturer?
Edit: I guess this wouldn’t work for angled cuts
Dang that’s pretty insightful. I didn’t think about that at first
Yes, at that point it's all been for nothing
This DIY actually makes sense
🙂
Made one out of walnut for my sliding miter. Love it and it’s a nice touch to the tool. 👍
Next up on pimp my power tools. We wood grain the saws.
Fuck the wood grain gripping
Champagne sipping, im spitting from the vice lords, ganstas bloods crips
Все классно, но пока не сделаешь первый наклон пилы , в лево или в право ((
Для этого есть другая пила
Наклоняется вроде как только в одну сторону
@@user-valtervalter Собственно говоре это не так важно, даже в одну сторону все ровно чистого реза уже не будет, но если хорошо присмотреться, на этой пиле, шкала наклона в обе стороны .
@@user-sn1nw5zc7b да, заметил, углы скошены на опорной линейке, оба
Why certainly...those were my thoughts EXACTLY!! 🥸
He also made the machine look a little nicer. 👏🏻
I always wondered how these were made!
Learn how to use a saw and you won't get any chip out
But how? I'm intrigued, is there something I should know?
@@TewkesburyBear yes
@@darkone12491 brilliant yeah cheers for that. Go back to bed.
Okay so since this person isn’t being helpful or is just just talking shit without actually knowing, lemme see if I can help.
When I worked in a cabinet shop we would set a price of 1/4” underneath the price we were cutting and having something underneath solves the chipp out problem. It’s essentially what the guy is doing here but we ALWAYS had scrap 1/4” laying around
@@TewkesburyBear I *believe* the tear-out happens when you blow through that last little bit of wood and you're kinda breaking it as much as cutting it. Try slowing down as you get most of the way through and you should get at least less of that. Also, if you're only making a few cuts, you can probably put one strip of masking tape over that slot and get a pretty good result. Don't put too many layers of tape though as you'll be raising your workpiece up in the middle and throwing off your accuracy.
What purpose does this serve? I've used chop saws for years, I'm asking an honest question.
Edit: lol I actually don't know. Anyone have an answer??
Is it to make it look nicer than the original plastic one?
@@gartan8449 no, I think it affects tear out on the cut?
From what I understand it is to make a clean cut. On the miter when you make a cut you usually have pieces on the bottom that chip off as there is nothing under the end to support it. While it doesn’t have much of an effect, it can be annoying and ascetically displeasing. To fix this, they made a piece that only has room for the saw to go through, meaning the wood you cut will not chip because it is supported if that makes sense.
@@ZSmith-yy4lv yeah that makes more sense then doing all that work just for a wooden finish to the thing..:p
@@gartan8449 I’m sure some would still do it for ascetics, It does look nice.
The replacement is so stylish! Beautiful craftsmanship.
No more split ends. Nice work..
Hahaha try cut on 45 degrees on both sides and that line will expand to 3 cm large. I work with it everyday.
You must mean 3 mm.
@@RM250man 3m
He can make inserts for angles as well. Also if it’s a hobby saw it’s not a big deal to change it out while working
I would do this to my shop saw, but not my job site saw. Looks cool and in the shop making chop cuts and doing everything else with a table saw or router, would be sweet to look at. On the job site, where we need best accuracy super fast and consistent every time, it’s best to just use the stock piece.
Ottimo accorgimento lo farò anch'io grazie per i video .
At first I thought this was just a dumb "hack" to add a meaningless cosmetic improvement to a saw you'll replace in a couple years. But I get it....zero clearance guard to prevent tear-out for really fine woodworking projects. Mad props. I respect the perfectionism. I haven't really attained this level of attention to detail yet with my projects (mostly making large furniture out of knotty alder) but I respect this a lot.
Один рез под углом и конец восторгу))) ти думал самий умний??)))
The guy just made this thing to solve a problem and y’all are like “WhADda AboUT AnGLe cuTs? WAtCha GonNa Do tHen?” Like he can’t just throw the old one back on. GTFO
This is a rad idea!
Una gran mejora....👏👏👏
I'm doing this to my saw today,as soon as it stops raining 👍.
Why did you go so intense with gluing the plastic to the board...
@Anthony Martin lol this is good 👍
That’s all good on a cross cut but what about a 45 degree cuts sir 🤔😞
Same thing. The insert moves with the saw and the 45 cut won’t damage it or create new cuts. Only time that would differ is on bevel cuts which I almost never do
🤣🤣🤣 pretty sure he means bevel when he says 45 degree
Muchas gracias !!!!
Nice. Gonna sort mine at the weekend, thanks for posting.
So I’m sure I’ll take some heat for this but the blade cuts up into the piece and these aren’t as necessary as a table saw. I have a finishing blade on mine and never have tear out
Ну прям очень нужный lifehack...
Your band saw skills are impressive!
Thank you, i will use this.
Yeah, that's nice and all, but what are you gonna do when you put your dado stack in there? Did you think of that one?
😳 not gonna lie I want to see that happen now 😆
Who puts a dado stack in a miter saw ? Lol
@@KomarProject goofy people
@@KomarProject innovators thats who! 😂
@@KomarProject HAHAHAHAHA! Well played, sir.
Have fun with all of the chips wedging your saw blade.
Ficou sensacional!
Much better.
Brilliant.