Modding the Monoprice Mini Delta thanks to an awesome community
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- The 3D printing community on balance is an amazingly positive force. The community for the Monoprice Mini Delta is a particularly good one, with a range of fantastic resources compiled thanks to the generosity of its members.
In this video, I reference the available websites to make significant improvements to what I already consider a good printer. The key upgrades covered:
- Wham Bam flexible build platform - I am an original backer from their Kickstarter and have invested in several kits for my printers. This kit was supplied free of charge although that doesn't change my opinion. PLA sticks well at 60 degrees and releases as you would expect.
EZR extruder - I have fitted this also to several printers. It is reliable, easy to use and performs well. Capricorn PTFE tube is a nice match.
Marlin 4 Monoprice Mini Delta firmware - I wanted this in place mainly to improve the standard bed heating performance, although I am appreciative of the numerous other fixes and improvements.
LCD move to top panel - A nifty and neat mod.
It is nice to use my platform on RUclips to shine a light on some of the heroes of the 3D printing community. My thanks goes out to them for the work they contributed for the benefit of others.
Purchase the Monoprice Mini Delta:
Amazon: amzn.to/2L7giYX
eBay Aus: ebay.to/2USyE4o
Wham Bam flexible build plate (115mm diameter model) - Discount coupon QDS5ZY1HZ2A6: bit.ly/2HqxpB5
EZR extruder: www.seemecnc.com/products/ezr...
1m XS PTFE tube on Amazon ($14.50): amzn.to/2wsV2lR
Gigdigit shop for MPMD parts and spares: gigdigit.com/
Monoprice Mini Delta wiki by Matthew Upp: www.mpminidelta.com/
Monoprice Mini Delta quick start/101 guide by Brian Kurtz:bit.ly/MPMD101
Monoprice Mini Delta Roadmap/FAQ by David Keeton: bit.ly/mpmdfaq
Marlin 4 Monoprice Mini Delta github by Michael Cheah: github.com/mcheah/Marlin4MPMD
LCD back protective cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:284...
Extruder Coupler fix: www.thingiverse.com/thing:334...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#3dprinting #monopriceminidelta #upgrades
Since I've started 3D printing I have seen tons of crazy mods from the 3D printing community the imagination they bring to life is insane ❤❤
I was half hoping the 101 guide would make an appearance, but still blew me away to see my work on your channel! :D
Wassup, Brian?
Hi Michael, I'm really stoked to see you liked the LCD relocation mod I did for this printer! Thanks for spreading the word! I have been working on some other more extensive mods for the printer in the time since I did that, but I have been trying to get caught up on my rocketry videos and have not had any time to document the work. A friend that belongs to the facebook group for the MPMD sent me this video, and I really enjoyed it. Liked and Subbed!
USWaterRockets you’re the GOAT for even thinking up that mod. This is a printer will lots of potential that is squandered by the two manufacturers
Thank you for the mod! I never would have thought of it myself.
Wow, impressive job you and the community have done
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Superb advice as always Michael.
Nice work, those write ups seem useful, I will definitely be taking a read through some.
Excellent Review of the MPMD upgrade path from the community. The MPMD user community probably have more engineering hours into upgrading this printer than the original design engineering. :-)
From your posts to the Facebook page I would say you yourself probably do. You and the others mentioned in the video have done a great service for the mini Delta community. Thanks.
A great video and great to point out the community support. I have upgraded both of my Ender 5s to the EZR and capricorn boden tube, much better results.
Great video, very helpful!
Wow I have two of these printers and haven’t done a single one of these mods because I’m a lazy college student. Thank you for giving me something to do all summer. I tried their marlin from github a few weeks back but their new G29 change really threw me for a loop. I’m gonna order that power supply ASAP
Great video
This is a fantastic video, Michael! You should consider making a video covering the process of upgrading to the Marlin 4 MMD firmware. It's amazing how much things have changed. I stepped away from 3D printing for several months because life got in the way. Now, I'm getting back into it to find more products and upgrades available. My Mini Delta worked phenomenal for a few months and then began to have issues. I'm hoping to get it up and running reliably again. Thanks again for the great content!
Holy shit man Ive been having so many problems with this printer, and knowing its a half decent printer I should be able to use for my needs has just been making it worse. But you've solved basically everything Ive seen with mine on yours. I cant wait to try all this out and see some of the community driven resources. Thank you!
Gutes Video wie immer👌
Awesome information, I just bought one of these as my first 3d printer.
same
I'm glad I found this video because now I know the Monoprice Mini Delta isn't really open source even though I found it on a list of the best open source 3d printers for 2021
I talked with Enegetic 3d store. They will add the 115mm diameter size in their shop (energetic 3d store at AliExpress) tomorrow.
I use the spring steel from energetic 3d on most of my printers (exept on my original prusa mk3s of course as it has the pei powder coated sheet).
They are very well made (no sharp edges) and the PEI-film is already applied (so no struggle to get it on bubble-free). I am very happy with the product - I upgraded my Anycubic Predator, Anycubic Linear Plus, Ender 3, Ender 3 plus, Ender 5, Sapphire-S and I am very amazed how well it works. The prize also is amazingly low, so I can not think about a reason not to do the upgade (also if you want you can add ABL to your printers using chap inductive probe instead a more expansive BL touch - so practicaly you pay much less adding magnetic bed + induction probe than using stock or glas bed + buying a BL-Touch)
Energetic 3d store has the 115mm diameter in their shop now. It costs about 14,59€ / 16,34$US / 21,45 $Can / 24,55 $AU /
www.aliexpress.com/item/33056120833.html?storeId=4542004&spm=2114.12010612.8148356.18.4f16330fcguvr1
could you possibly, for the love of what ever 3d printing deities that are out there, make an in depth video showing how to calibrate the MPMD after flashing the Marlin firmware. I'm still a novice and more of a hands on visual learner and reading off the community and/ or wiki can be very overwhelming/ confusing.
You could try the windows executable file mentioned in the roadmap
Just a blast from the past: We are now in 2024, and all the hype is CoreXY (and especially BambuLab), but I run 2 MonoPrice delta printers: The Mini Delta that I bought on sale after watching your review here ($80 including delivery) and the large MonoPrice Delta Pro. Am I missing out on the CoreXY speeds? Yes, no doubt - but I still printer at 2-4 times the speeds of most cartesians, especially the ones from 2022 and before that.
And it's amazing how well this Mini Delta prints when tuned in. Yes, there is a learning curve - but it's really not so bad, unless you decide to push its limits - and yes, build volume is very very small - but it's still usable, and mine still runs perfectly well.
Thanks to you for this review - and especially for the Wham Bam recommendation: Their build surfaces are still superior to everything else; including Bambu Lab's own PEI.
community powah
I like the move of the LCD screen to the top. I received my Delta today and I have already made that change. The only thing different is that I did not splice any wires. I had a four-wire female cable and I just substituted the correct JST connector. The four-wire set had a yellow wire that is going to connect to the white wire position. I will solder another male JST connector to the wires, correct color alignment, that plugs into the original LCD cable on the control board.
I just got an ender 3 and I'm in love, but I wanted another cheap printer with a smaller footprint to print out smaller things while my ender takes on bigger projects, looking forward to picking up one!
Wow Michael, your hardwork and passion are admirable, there are a lot of 3D printing channels but none of them are as detailed and generous as yours. Keep it up man, cheers from México. By the way, what do you think of the Tevo Tarantula Pro?
I've now had two of these, the first the bed was so out of flat it was basically unusable, the second they sent me after almost a month from sending the first one in never worked, I plugged it in, hit auto home and it went to the front left and just sat there having a seizure, that being said MonoPrice did give me a refund with no haggling.
Thanks
If I would’ve known, I would’ve waited to order my Wham Bam plate! Oh well. I’m going to do all these mods except the one that moves the screen, I have another idea that I’m working on to tilt the screen in it’s current position so I can see it better, but otherwise, great video Michael! Keep up the great content!
Hi John, I am the author of the screen location mod. I originally made printed brackets to tilt the bottom of the screen out for easier access and viewing angle, but I found that tilting the screen turned it into a trash magnet. If you come up with a mod you might be able to come up with a hood design or something to keep the garbage off the screen and buttons.
@@USWaterRockets that's a good point. I will take it into consideration as I design my brackets. Do you have the original design on Thinigiverse?
I did not put the design out at the time. If I can find it I will upload it to my thingiverse page.
USWaterRockets thanks!
Looks like the wiki has finally gone dead... super sad to loose such a valuable resource!
Looks like he migrated it to a new site 🥳
Great, high quality video. I'm curious as to what you could do for a Mod-T printer since they company is no longer in business, and their last software/firmware created more issues than fixing them.
Joined FB you recommended Thank you
I have this printer... came with V44 firmware. However, tonight I found out that MY printer (as some others out there) is *SPECIAL*. Appears (and this is in the Bug notices) of mcheah. Installing this firmware may cause the head to crash into the build plate. Turns out Malyan is shipping some of these with reversed steppers. I am one of the lucky few (and I suspect there will be more). However, I figured out tonight how to workaround this.
I watched Michael's awesome video tonight and decided to do this to my MPMD. Went swimmingly until I performed the G28 and instead of the effector going up.. it screamed down and crashed into my glass build plate...ugh!
There is a thread in the issues section of the Github for this firmware that informs that Malyan has a special M-code to reverse the direction of the steppers. After re-flashing back to stock and running the M-code to reverse the steppers I was back where I started. Stock firmware / Stock operation.
As I have modded just about EVERY 3D printer I have (thanks to the help of Michael here at Teaching Tech)... I decided to try to find a workaround for myself and others in my situation.
I Reversed the polarity on the stepper cables at the motherboard. Turns out you can uplug the cables, pull the cable locks from the pins on the board (with Needle-nosed pliers), flip them 180 and slide them back down the pins. Plug back in the cables. I did it ONE cable at a time so as not to mix them up and have a big nightmare. Re-flashed the stock firmware (w/o the stepper reversal active) and ran G28 (with the power connector in hand in case things went bad)... and SUCCESS!!! Re-flashed with Marlin4MPMD V43+ and SUCCESS!!
Sorry for the long post...but I wanted to get this out the community in case they run into this situation like I did.
LOVE your videos Michael!
Michael McDonald holy shit man I’m glad there was light at the end of the tunnel
You are actually one of the lucky ones. The motors they are using now should help a bit with reducing the noise which is why they made the change. It still won't be all that quiet but with the Mini Delta it can use all the help it can get in the noise department.
At first they used 10 Ohm motors with 4985 stepper drivers at 1/8 stepping, then 4995 drivers at 1/16 stepping, then 4988 drivers for XYZ with a 4995 driver for E, and then eventually switched all four drivers to 4988's. All those iterations helped a little but I guess not enough so they switched to 2 Ohm motors along with the 4988 drivers on XYZE.
As to why the direction is inverted I have no idea. Could be the motors are wired different or maybe for whatever reason they had a batch manufactured with the wires swapped by accident or maybe even on purpose. 🤷♂️
For all reading this, theres a wiki page for inverting the stepper motors using a command: www.mpminidelta.com/invert_motor_direction
Here's a huge timesaver for MPMD owners
When your belt breaks drill out the rivets on the top brackets carefully and replace the rivets with nuts and bolts, this makes future belt changes much easier and simpler.
I wanted to upgrade my Ender 3 for flexibles with this EZR extruder but they ask 43USD just for shipping to Europe ! If anybody is looking for an alternative, I advise to look for the macewen flexiplus
I wouldn't blame them; blame the shipping companies!
If I have installed a bootloader(ender 3 in this case) and wish to remove it, is it just to reflash the firmware by the motherboard to get rid of it? And would that give a little bit more space for the marlin firmware? I lost a bunch of features when installing bltouch like the filament change feature which was very nice to have.
Just ordered my EZR extruder! So hyped for filament swaps to take fewer than 50 tries lol
Update: stripped an allen key and broke a bit trying to loosen the stepper motor's hobbed gear set screw. Ordered another stepper motor from Monoprice :(
Hello @Teaching Tech
I ordered the SeeMeCNC EZR Struder and installed it on my MP Delta Mini as you have in your video.
It started to print fine for the first few mins and then I noticed the filament stopped feeding into the tube.
When you installed the EZR Struder, did you have to replace anything?
I am thinking about upgrading the Delta Mini to an SKR mini e3. That board costs only 26€ (about 30$US) including 4 TMC2209. It is made for the Ender 3 as a direct 32bit replacement board, but as it uses Marlin 2.0 and have extra input for bed leveling probes it should not be a problem to config it for use with a delta. It also has an serial connector for TFT-Display, so maybe the Display of the Monoprice can be reused (but a 2.4 inch touchscreen from SKR only costs 15$ anyway).
Also I think about changing to 24V (I found an 8by8cm² 24v 60W silicone heater for the bed for about $20) to improve bed heating.
This changes should improve heating and silence. Of course all this upgrades will ad noticable cost, but they will make the delta mini the perfect printer for smal objects:
- 15€ for spring steel
- 26€ new mainboard
- 13€ new touch display
- 17€ new silicone heater
- 3€ new hotend heater
- 20€ new power supply
So about 84€ altogether - so about than halve the price the Delta mini costs normaly.
I think it will be worth it (and of course no need to do all upgrades at once).
Of course adding a nimble would also be nice, but I think it would be quite expansive for such a smal printer.
Thanks for this. I went to put capricorn tubing on mine and realized the at the bowden coupler on the hotend assembly is too narrow and tubing doesn't slide through it. Had you replaced that or are they coming from the factory like that now?
I had the issue with 25% of the first layer not properly extruding leaving a dead zone and ruining every print. I calibrated the end stops, tensioned the belts, tweaked endless gcode settings and nothing helped. I was about to trash it and get a CR-10 but I decided to try the Marlin custom firmware and that fixed all my issues, now it prints beautifully.
I will not make friends today but I'm not a huge fan of the 2 docs you mentionned. That's a lot of work and a nice intention but what they are suggested is really a long complicated process, specially for the price and the size of that printer. I bought a glass bed (not receveid yet) and a 10A power supply. I'm planning to put the screen in the top and change the firmware like you did and then I will deactivate the auto-leveling feature. The docs involved mods mainly to improve that but it's not needed. Chris Riley made (as always) an excellent video on how to level a delta printer with M666 and M665 commands.
Fair enough. I guess someone Can pick and choose how much they follow. I found the quick and dirty m665 values were all I needed to get it to my satisfaction.
I never thought of using India Pale Ale for cleaning. I guess it would give off sort of a pub like smell when the bed heats up.
Brilliant video.
I will definitely be updating my firmware.
I think a bulldog extruder would be good for this machine.
I have been printing tpu this weekend with the stock extruder.
Good results at 10 to 15 mm per second but I have noticed that the extruder steps are a little out.
I replaced the extruder like you showed in the video, but used some of my own bowden tubing. The problem that I am now encountering is that the filament seems to require more force to push through than before and often gets stuck
How did you fix this? I think I am having that problem along with many others lol
Looks like the UK store has 50% off on Monoprice printers - making this a bargain. Do you know what nozzles are fully compatible? (looking for 0.2mm).
So I bought this 3D printer and the WhamBam flexi plate. What start Gcode did you use in Cura?
Definately raised my interest in this machine, looks to be a nice project to work on. Having marlin firmware now is awesome, greatly expands the possibilities.
Does the MPMD have enough room in the chassis to add stepper dampers? One major complaint I have seen about this printer is the noise, and that might be a way to combat it.
Just checked and the mainboard is too close to two of them so no.
I have the printer, and it does not have space for stepper dampers without some serious modding, but I managed to control the noise to similar levels as other 3d printers by
1. Added flyback diodes to the motors (or as some call it TL smoothers)
2. printed a spacer for the bottom fan so that it is not directly behind the fan grill, and using a resistor to slow the fan down a bit
3. switched to softer rubber feet
Don't know if you'd know this - but the levelling or startup sequence with the firmware touches down 15 times. I can't figure any way to override this. You mention the author has a way to do it. Just wondered if you know where I could find that out?
What's a better printer: Prusa i3 MK3 or Qidi X Plus
Hi. When will you prepare a video about using Ender-3 / pro 1.1.5 mb with bltouch v3?
Any recommendations regarding the nozzle?
@teachingtech ... I still have trouble with the conversion on the Firmware side. Or maybe on the Hardware side. The Motors make a weired snakeey sound hard to describe...did anyone here ran into the same?
I know this video is way old now, However, I would love to know how to make this as quiet as possible.
Hey mate thinking of buying a Flashforge Adventurer 4 what's your opinion of them. I just want a good reliable printer, I have an Artillery Genius and Sidewinder and am having reliability issues. Thanks buddy.
I'll have to try that new firmware. I must say your experience with the MPMD has been very different from mine. I've had all the problems with my MPMD. The bed leveling not working right, that stupid (apparently WTF brand) Bowden coupler breaking, the build surface having basically zero durability (mine ripped after only 2 prints), the slow heating (mine struggles to get past 40, and can't seem to keep the hotend going when it's high), all of them. All in all, based on my experience with it, I've been warning people away from this printer because of all the problems I've had with it. But maybe armed with this video and a wiki and FB group that I didn't know existed I can get them fixed.
Anyone found a solution for 2Ohm Stepper motors? I can't to get this little machine to Run in 2208/09 in a/b/c seems I have 2Ohm Stepper motors instead of 10Ohm?... Anyone an Idea how to fix it?
The mods def make this printer better. Is the printer loud? I thought I remember people complaining about the noise.
Yes it's still loud. The gigdigit site has replacement boards with 2208s. Not that cheap though.
@@TeachingTech Some people have also swapped out the bearings and it had a noticeable improvement on the sound.
Please help when I try to calibrate it doesn't go far enough to tap and the light doesnt come on
Wait, was the groot printed on the Ender 3 or the Delta?
kinda wish the wham bam plate didnt have such a high shipping cost, 29 dollar plate turns into ~45ish with shipping included :/
I bought the EZR extruded but cannot take off the gear on the stepped motor to replace it. Any tricks on doing this?
I'm having the same problem. Did you figure it out?
Ric Ramon I ended up putting the gear in a bench vise then using a punch to hammer the stepper motor off the gears just little tap on the shaft of the stepper motor until it slides out
so curious, a couple upgrades you made also raises the overall price of the unit. Is the the upgraded machine worth it compared to models at the new cost?
I bought two meters of Capricorn tubing and it was enough for multiple printers. Less friction, less retraction, fewer clogs. Well worth it, imo.
Generally speaking, I think extruder upgrades are one of the better upgrades you can make on budget 3D printers. You can buy cheaper all metal extruders, but they may not handle flexible filament as well as the EZR Struder or have the ergonomic advantages.
12:08 You added 47 meters of wiring? 😱😄
unfortunately, the discount code for the wham bam plates are no longer valid, but they are my favorite build plates. (note to print PETG on it, use a PLA raft to protect it. Make sure that the raft has little to no crevasses for the PETG to seep into.
Hi, I am new to all this. I have updated my firmware to version 133 (that I did manage). But the whole G code thing doesn´t work for me. I pasted many different codes in Ultimate Cura (and also tried once without a code). I opened a boat file on Ultimate Cura and saved it to the micro sd card that I then put in the 3d printer. But nothing works :^( Nothing sticks to the bed of the printer. It just prints a mess of nothing. I am at a loss...
How much more can it be modded? Would you do a video where it is modded to frankenstein levels?
Very god video, just a question, using a cellphone tuner in this printer, can apply the same tuner method in Ender 3 printer?
I guess you have to measure the tone of the belts of both X and Y axis in home position when you know the tension is right. Then reproduce whenever needed. But the first reference has to be perfect, your phone app has to be trustworthy, and you can't use the MP mini datas since it's just not the same lengths. I wouldn't personally put so much effort in this ^^'
@@rohanisousbois But, in the same printer model, at the same temperature, may be is a good method..
It's possible, but with this printer it will be much easier because all 3 belts are the same length and must be the same tension, so one tone is all you need for all 3 belts. On a cartesian printer, your belts are likely to be different lengths, so the tone will be specific to each belt with a different length.
@@USWaterRockets True
If the LCD panel cable uses 0.1" pin connectors, you could use an RC servo extension cable like from www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-3.html instead of splicing-in extra wire.
My problem is I can only get the test to stick. Every other project wont adhere to the printing surface
I use BLUE painters tape on the bed. you can still use heat on the bed. it allows you to remove print with out damaging the bed an minimal cleanup on the part. when printing with PETG if you dont use BLUE painters tape it will teat chunks out of your bed.
I could use a small printer like this, but then again why wouldn't I go for resin if I already have a big fdm printer.
Resin is messy and not for everyone. Besides this it's a fair point. Cheap resin printer review coming this week.
@@TeachingTech If you print small you probably need small details so resin would be more logical, so I doubt if this printer has any place between the cheap resin printers. Before the resin got affordable it would have been very handy for the small parts, but now idk. Been watching some Resin printer reviews from Uncle Jessy. Looking forward seeing yours!
does anyone else have all the arms flip upside down after the firmware update?
Hi Michael, how do i change the z offset value in pronterface?
In stock firmware, you don't. It gets changed in the Start Gcode via G29 Z?.??. In Marlin4MPMD you can use M851 Z-?.?? over USB. Go to Facebook or Reddit for more help. The only reason I'm here right now is because I was linking someone here for Wham Bam help.
Discount Code does not work for Wham Bam flexible build plate (115mm diameter model)
I dont know why but mine just arrived and the power button sinks into the machine
You know how to demagnetize a magnet? You heat it to the curie point of the magnetic material it was made from. I tried a magnetic base. Very bad idea. The print stuck to the surface fine. However the whole thing lifted up off the magnet. This happened a lot. Additionally this printer has trouble with the 5A power supply to keep both bed and extruder hot. Much better after flashing the firmware. Also a thick bed acts as a bit of an insulator and takes longer to heat up. I am reverting back to something similar to the factory bed material. FWIW.
This is something I've wondered about, though 60C seems very low for a Curie point and magnetic build surfaces are now ubiquitous, so they must work ok. Is this a problem specific to the wham bam build surface?
moving the lcd to the top is annoying because the cables get in the way, you should have done igus bearings too
Out of the box ender 3 pro vs modding mini delta (Time effort and money), which is preferable ?
I have the MPMD and it is more like a fun project or toy to work on. Its print size is too small for many actually useful parts, and it requires too much effort to make it work as good as it can. Unless you are really limited by space the ender3 will be a better option.
Could you use a Meanwell 12v power like on a CR10? Also Kenovo has a silicone heat pad that fits this printer. If I flash the modified firmware should I be able to use the Meanwell and Kenovo?
If you change to a non brick power supply the printer will no longer be so neat. Is the kenovo a mains powered bed? If so it will heat up fast but you will introduce other challenges.
12V is the answer, so no to mains (which means 110 or 220 V straight from the wall). Could be an effective machine as you describe it.
Thank you for the replies. I look forward to all your videos. Good stuff. Thank you
Did all that and couldn't even chamfer the PTFE tube....amazing
There a possibility of videos on the V2 model of this printer. These videos are neat and all, but there is very little on the V2 model of the mini delta and well it kinda sucks
Looking for 3D printer blueprints I have lost all of mine
Thanks for the video, Michael!
I'm wondering if you can help me out a little bit. I recently got one of these printers for $25 off Facebook Marketplace, and I wanted to follow through with your guide here. The Marlin fork that you mentioned here has been archived, it's no longer maintained. Regardless, I tried to upgrade it anyway (v41, 5A PSU). It seemed to work for the most part, but it no longer performs ABL at the start of a print. I've gone back to stock for the time being, but I'd still like to get proper Marlin working on it.
There's a new branch that's superseded the version you originally used (link at the end), but I'm having a hard time making sense of it. Can you offer any guidance or suggestions?
Thanks! And keep up the great videos, I watch them all!
Currently maintained Marlin branch: github.com/aegean-odyssey/mpmd_marlin_1.1.x
Hey Michael, thank you for sharing this awesome community work. This inspired me to contribute and upload my stepper damper adapter to thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3748949
I have installed the custom firmware and it works really well. I run it with a 6,125A PSU and installed the 10A version of the firmware. At heatup it charges 75W and then goes back to 65W max during printing. The PSU does not get too warm so far. The heatup works so unbelievable well! It is ridiculous!
Anyone? ...
I thought about getting one of these for printing small PLA models/parts but the price on Amazon is now US$352-380. That's absolutely ridiculous for something like this. I'd rather buy another Ender 3 for a lot less money.
It's $179 at Monoprice with free shipping, and also $179 on Amazon, "reduced from $269.50" which is crazy-talk. (Prices today 10/28/20).
Id like to send you something if you wouldnt mind.
Uggg.. now that you have told everyone about the group, I worry it will turn into the Ender-3/5 groups ...
In general what is wrong with the Ender-3/5 groups? Maybe it is obvious but I am not a member of any of the groups for the Ender 3 or 5.
@@MatthewUpp They have turned into a place where people come to complain and yell at each other and talk smack. I used to post, but now it's just a group I'm in but do not look at the notifications.
@@warlockuskta That's not going to happen or at least it won't be tolerated by those that do. Sure it happens here and there but if it's reported and needs to be removed then we'll do so. Depending on what it was we will remove or warn the member.
People will complain but that is what a lot of the groups contain. I've noticed those who complain in whiny or A-hole way often get very few if any comments on their post.
Shit at that point just buy a better printer ….