This was a really awesome video , as someone who has been getting into electronics and soldering just over the last year, things like this are actually really amazing to watch. I learned a lot from this.
Well done my guy! I had no problems repairing my gameboy color with your video. Who would’ve thought it was the DC port.. I didn’t. Thank you so much!!
Looks like im late to the party. This video is a tremendously helpful for me. Really enjoy your process. I hope you make many more showing how to diagnose various issues. Thank you 🤘
I learned a lot from this video, thanks! You mentioned fixing the conductive pads for the buttons. How would you go about repairing/replacing those? Do you have a video or any links to anything that could help for those? I read online that they're bridged by the button membranes that are often silicon/graphite and a temporary fix after cleaning might be to use a pencil on the membrane, or conductive ink but you mentioned replacing them, any pointers?
I try to never scratch the metal because you can't put it back after you scratch it off. I use a big pink eraser. Works great for cleaning cartridges too.
Yeah I have the WERA sets. They are expensive so only use them on electronics normally, not when I'm fixing cars up or other things as I'm fairly brutal with them. That Wowstick should just be called Wowsh*t. It clearly has fake reviews its useless!
Got a cheap partially working gbc. Thought I could give it a try to fix it. Turns out the pads/contacts on the A button were already ripped. Any idea how to fix it? Or is it a goner? Thank you.
The reg should have left hand pins top to bottom, 5V, -15V, 13.6V, GND. Right side is the input from batteries. Top is input voltage, bottom is ground, middle not used. Check continuity between ground and the bottom two pins they should both both be connected. Check F1 and F2 fuses for continuity between their pads to make sure they are not blown. If so, remove them and short them with solder. Check power button pins, the shield pins should be to ground. The top pin should always be battery voltage when off and on. When on, the middle pin (C) should get battery voltage. C then goes down to the top right pin of reg to provide power
@@hakuzeon498 not the issue you have. They are bulk capacitors so if not loaded would not work but if you remove the screen from the board and power it up the negative 15 and 13.6 would stay at that without the caps. Once loaded they would drop. Start checking power button as mentioned. If that's ok check right side of reg. If that's right let me know. Also make sure grounds are all continuous
Do you have any tips how I can fix mine? After a few seconds of turning it on the power indicator starts flashing and slowly fading (Tried using a few different types of new batteries) but none seem to work. I already cleaned the motherboard and the battery contacts cause they had a little corossion but this didn't fix the problem.
I have a GBC with a strange issue: it turns on and plays the classic Nintendo sound but the screen stays blank. There are rare times where the screen shows inverted colors and where the gameboy logo should appear a white rectangle show. same thing where "nintendo" is. I tried with a game inserted and does the same thing but it doesnt load. Do you have any advice for me to fix it? THANKS!!!
I have used regular alcohol (96% or so), soapy water, ipa, paint thinner etc. It all works more or less. Paint thinner quickly eats solder mask and silk screen, so gotta be careful with this tho. But working with this on the "kitchen bench", ipa is probably the safest and simplest. Using water will require u to really take your time to dry it out real good before powering it (so it's not really a good option when u need power on it while working on it) - water collects under chips etc. But it is like this as with everything else, if u are doing a job, get the correct tools and you will be way better off than trying to improvise. In this case, getting a bottle of ipa (isopropyl alcohol in case this isn't clear to you - hehe for me ipa is beer :) ) - isn't very hard. They have it everywhere.
I typically use Deox-it on dirtier boards and their components without any ill side effects. It just takes a bit longer than isopropyl alcohol does to dry. 👍
Very sloppy work. Why not just do it right the first time, so you dont have to go back and redo it again? Just creating more work for yourself, trying to save 30 seconds.. And i can almost guarantee, he just left the fuse bridged.. lmao
This was a really awesome video , as someone who has been getting into electronics and soldering just over the last year, things like this are actually really amazing to watch.
I learned a lot from this.
Well done my guy! I had no problems repairing my gameboy color with your video. Who would’ve thought it was the DC port.. I didn’t. Thank you so much!!
Looks like im late to the party. This video is a tremendously helpful for me. Really enjoy your process. I hope you make many more showing how to diagnose various issues. Thank you 🤘
Jesus; I have learned so much and I want to try and tackle this on my own.
Yeah it was fun. When I opened it I really didn't think I would get it working. You should grab a broken one on eBay for £15 and have a go
I recommend also watching the retro future if you want to learn about fixing Gameboys
Thank you breaking it down and making it seem a lot less daunting. Appreciate your instruction style 👍🏻👍🏻
No problem
A lot of work but it was worthy. Congrats 🍾
4:14 What fluid? IPA Fluid? I'm guessing that is isopropyl alcohol and thanks to the 8-Bit Guy that I just saw a few minutes ago.
awesome video I got a few of these im about to dive into and I appreciate your approach
Awesome video Luke! Thank you
I wished I saw this video first, thank you very much!
I learned a lot from this video, thanks! You mentioned fixing the conductive pads for the buttons. How would you go about repairing/replacing those? Do you have a video or any links to anything that could help for those?
I read online that they're bridged by the button membranes that are often silicon/graphite and a temporary fix after cleaning might be to use a pencil on the membrane, or conductive ink but you mentioned replacing them, any pointers?
I try to never scratch the metal because you can't put it back after you scratch it off. I use a big pink eraser. Works great for cleaning cartridges too.
That was very satisfying to watch. Cheers 🍻
That hair style is very 2000's
Ha thanks... I think... or maybe it was meant to be a piss take :P
Never knew MacGyver had a son! When it comes to screwdrivers you just cant go wrong with WERA screwdrivers
Yeah I have the WERA sets. They are expensive so only use them on electronics normally, not when I'm fixing cars up or other things as I'm fairly brutal with them. That Wowstick should just be called Wowsh*t. It clearly has fake reviews its useless!
Got a cheap partially working gbc. Thought I could give it a try to fix it. Turns out the pads/contacts on the A button were already ripped. Any idea how to fix it? Or is it a goner? Thank you.
pin 5-7 on DC/DC module don't sent output voltage. Can you recommend to solve ?
The reg should have left hand pins top to bottom, 5V, -15V, 13.6V, GND. Right side is the input from batteries. Top is input voltage, bottom is ground, middle not used.
Check continuity between ground and the bottom two pins they should both both be connected.
Check F1 and F2 fuses for continuity between their pads to make sure they are not blown. If so, remove them and short them with solder.
Check power button pins, the shield pins should be to ground. The top pin should always be battery voltage when off and on. When on, the middle pin (C) should get battery voltage. C then goes down to the top right pin of reg to provide power
@@AngelSix I checked all OK but reg left hand pin top to buttom , 8V ,-1V ,1V, GND.
@@hakuzeon498 have you checked continuity to ground from battery ground might be floating ground issue
@@AngelSix C32 , C35 , C38 relate about no power issue ?
@@hakuzeon498 not the issue you have. They are bulk capacitors so if not loaded would not work but if you remove the screen from the board and power it up the negative 15 and 13.6 would stay at that without the caps. Once loaded they would drop. Start checking power button as mentioned. If that's ok check right side of reg. If that's right let me know. Also make sure grounds are all continuous
Right.... time to make a power source and follow your instructions so that i can test my corroded dead GBC board!
Really nice video.
You are brilliant🎉
Great job!
Do you have any tips how I can fix mine? After a few seconds of turning it on the power indicator starts flashing and slowly fading (Tried using a few different types of new batteries) but none seem to work. I already cleaned the motherboard and the battery contacts cause they had a little corossion but this didn't fix the problem.
super interesting, wish there was more!
I might start a channel for my other business RetroSix.co.uk showing all retro console restorations and upgrades
@@AngelSix would watch for sure, love this kind of stuff and you're a great presenter, very polished
Mate, can you tell me what camera you used to for your Zoom shots?
I have a gameboy color that wont turn on. I already did everything on this video. Any idea what else could be?
I have a GBC with a strange issue: it turns on and plays the classic Nintendo sound but the screen stays blank. There are rare times where the screen shows inverted colors and where the gameboy logo should appear a white rectangle show. same thing where "nintendo" is. I tried with a game inserted and does the same thing but it doesnt load. Do you have any advice for me to fix it? THANKS!!!
what would you recommend to clean the board if you have none IPA?
I have used regular alcohol (96% or so), soapy water, ipa, paint thinner etc. It all works more or less. Paint thinner quickly eats solder mask and silk screen, so gotta be careful with this tho.
But working with this on the "kitchen bench", ipa is probably the safest and simplest. Using water will require u to really take your time to dry it out real good before powering it (so it's not really a good option when u need power on it while working on it) - water collects under chips etc.
But it is like this as with everything else, if u are doing a job, get the correct tools and you will be way better off than trying to improvise.
In this case, getting a bottle of ipa (isopropyl alcohol in case this isn't clear to you - hehe for me ipa is beer :) ) - isn't very hard. They have it everywhere.
Can I use PCB Cleaner/Contact Cleaner to replace IPA?
I typically use Deox-it on dirtier boards and their components without any ill side effects. It just takes a bit longer than isopropyl alcohol does to dry. 👍
@@StreetChally73 Thanks for your help.
Just shoving a cartridge in while its on makes me cringe
My start and a button are very choppy the only game I can play is Pokémon
Probably just needs IPA cleaning on the pads
AngelSix thank you
I got game boy like this for 3€
Very sloppy work. Why not just do it right the first time, so you dont have to go back and redo it again? Just creating more work for yourself, trying to save 30 seconds..
And i can almost guarantee, he just left the fuse bridged.. lmao
You ok bro?
Im just fine. Im not the one doing sloppy half assed work instead of just doing it right once the first time lol @@RetroSix
Ok boss