Our engine builder told up the same basic thing about oil changes for my son's kart. It definitely made a difference once I really got it down to a system each race day. Also to go along with that and what Ben was saying: Oil is cheap compared to a rebuild...I was also told so are things like spark plugs and filters. Once I got in to the routine of changing all of those little things, it was probably the single biggest difference made in speed a matter of weeks for my kid as he moved from a rookie into the regular class.
My teammate back in the day, would change oil every time after he would go out on the track. I always thought that it was a bit excessive, until I heard his engine builder talking to him and how impressed he was at how clean, and how minimal the wear his engine has at the end of the season rebuild.
Flatheads on methanol required oil changes frequently. Flatheads had more blown by so th oil contaminated quicker. Also flathead oil is totally different than what most run in a clone.
12oz. JRPW formula 92 oil, every 50 laps. After I drain it I'll put a couple ounces in and drain it also. You'll be surprised at how much dirt hangs to the bottom of the block.
We would do the same on our engines, except we would flush the remaining film and dirt out of our block with non-residue brake cleaner through the fill hole and out the drain plug. And you're right, there are a lot of sediments that are on the bottom of the block. You would just have to remember to hold on to the red straw so it didn't blow off into the block, lol.
We changed our oil every 20 laps. We get 4-5 hot laps, 2 quals w/ 8 laps, change oil, and then run 15-20 lap features. Next week we start on new oil and will follow the same routine at the track. We run filer and pre filer both oiled lightly.
My builder recommended Thor Light, 12 ounces, and change it every 40 laps. Most race nights we get 8 laps of practice, an 8 lap heat, and a 20 lap feature so if I'm running one class I'm at 36 laps (not counting any possible caution laps) so as soon as I get back to my trailer after the feature I drain the oil before I load up. If I'm running 2 classes I change the oil after the heats then drain it again before loading up at the end of the night. I've built engines for cars since the 1970's and experience has taught me that oil is cheap insurance lol!
RSR clone thor light every 16 laps two heats change feature drain hot. Brand new engines we generally change every time we come off the track for a few weeks
Thor Light Red - i change it before the feature run my 16 laps wait 1 week do the next heat race then change my oil before the next feature to ensure the motor oil is new for the longer races
I now change my oil after the night is done.. so when am finished for the night I drain my oil while it’s still hot and drain it completely.. The reasoning behind that is that it drains all the yucky stuff (Dirt) that gets in the engine so you’re not using dirty oil, plus it keeps the engine cleaner.. (Per the Builder) I use 13 oz and I have a special blend oil. I typically run one class a night and typically heat races.
Tod Miller, KSR, Gary Freeze (Speed Clinic) told me oil is good for one night 2-3 classes. CHANGE FILTER AND PRE FILTER after every race use oil on filters told filter is more critical than the oil on a gas engine. methanol every time the engine runs
I run Klotz 0w 20 kart engine lube and change it after one night of single class racing unless i get stuck in a b main then iwell change it again before the a main
Predator 212 stage1 ran on ethanol free gas. I change my Amsoil 4t oil 14oz after every race day. (One class) K&N air filter with outerwear prefilter. Change my filters before every main.
I agree with changing after each night of racing. What i am curious about is how often are racers replacing valve springs in ther clones? Have you done a video on this?
Predator 212, 70mm Bore, 55mm Stroke, Stock side cover, (makes a difference with oil level)14 oz Lucas Karting oil, New oil before race night. Clean K&N with oil, no pre-filter. 1 Class, 1 Hot Lap Session, 1 Heat Race, 1 feature. Rinse and repeat. Stock Appearing class, only entry, ran with the Modified Small block opens, and all billets, finished 4th last night. Not too bad IMHO.
It is difficult to find any info on this Dyno K oil. Is this a new product? Would like to know if there is any literature or anybody with first hand testimony. Thanks for your channel. It is some good informative.
www.dynocams.com/ I believe it to be a product of Dyno Cams. I use it per my engine builders recommendation. Haven’t ever used others to compare, so I go on their experience.
@@jamietwigg5152 Good to know that but trying to find out the benefits of it. Seen a claim of a 1/2 horsepower gain. There are a lot of opinions out there. We are running tillitsons 225rs and have had some cam failures. Our motor guy recommends hydrotex 5 30. Tillitson says T4 ?? Guess it’s difficult to really know.
@@trctdon1 that 1/2 hp gain claim was for flatheads, they had more blow by than clones, so additives in dyno k burned. That isn't the case with a clone. Several discussions on Bob's about Dyno k oil. Everyone has a recommendation, sometimes it's a sponsorship deal. By a good brand oil and keep it changed. More modifications to the engine, the more frequent the oil change.
Our engine builder told up the same basic thing about oil changes for my son's kart. It definitely made a difference once I really got it down to a system each race day.
Also to go along with that and what Ben was saying: Oil is cheap compared to a rebuild...I was also told so are things like spark plugs and filters. Once I got in to the routine of changing all of those little things, it was probably the single biggest difference made in speed a matter of weeks for my kid as he moved from a rookie into the regular class.
Well said
My teammate back in the day, would change oil every time after he would go out on the track. I always thought that it was a bit excessive, until I heard his engine builder talking to him and how impressed he was at how clean, and how minimal the wear his engine has at the end of the season rebuild.
Wow. That’s dedication
Flatheads on methanol required oil changes frequently.
Flatheads had more blown by so th oil contaminated quicker.
Also flathead oil is totally different than what most run in a clone.
12oz. JRPW formula 92 oil, every 50 laps. After I drain it I'll put a couple ounces in and drain it also. You'll be surprised at how much dirt hangs to the bottom of the block.
That’s a good idea!
We would do the same on our engines, except we would flush the remaining film and dirt out of our block with non-residue brake cleaner through the fill hole and out the drain plug. And you're right, there are a lot of sediments that are on the bottom of the block. You would just have to remember to hold on to the red straw so it didn't blow off into the block, lol.
Those are both great ideas!
We changed our oil every 20 laps. We get 4-5 hot laps, 2 quals w/ 8 laps, change oil, and then run 15-20 lap features. Next week we start on new oil and will follow the same routine at the track. We run filer and pre filer both oiled lightly.
👍 sounds like a good regimen.
My builder recommended Thor Light, 12 ounces, and change it every 40 laps. Most race nights we get 8 laps of practice, an 8 lap heat, and a 20 lap feature so if I'm running one class I'm at 36 laps (not counting any possible caution laps) so as soon as I get back to my trailer after the feature I drain the oil before I load up. If I'm running 2 classes I change the oil after the heats then drain it again before loading up at the end of the night. I've built engines for cars since the 1970's and experience has taught me that oil is cheap insurance lol!
Fact Check, True story.
RSR clone thor light every 16 laps two heats change feature drain hot. Brand new engines we generally change every time we come off the track for a few weeks
Good stuff
Thor Light Red - i change it before the feature run my 16 laps wait 1 week do the next heat race then change my oil before the next feature to ensure the motor oil is new for the longer races
Good call.
Usually after every race day is when I change mine. I am also an odd duck. I use 16oz of 5w30 penn grade high zinc
Whatever works for your program.
I now change my oil after the night is done.. so when am finished for the night I drain my oil while it’s still hot and drain it completely.. The reasoning behind that is that it drains all the yucky stuff (Dirt) that gets in the engine so you’re not using dirty oil, plus it keeps the engine cleaner.. (Per the Builder) I use 13 oz and I have a special blend oil. I typically run one class a night and typically heat races.
I fire up after I wash my kart and get the engine and the oil nice and warm. Same concept.
Tod Miller, KSR, Gary Freeze (Speed Clinic) told me oil is good for one night 2-3 classes. CHANGE FILTER AND PRE FILTER after every race use oil on filters told filter is more critical than the oil on a gas engine. methanol every time the engine runs
Awesome stuff.
I run Klotz 0w 20 kart engine lube and change it after one night of single class racing unless i get stuck in a b main then iwell change it again before the a main
Very good. 👍
Predator 212 stage1 ran on ethanol free gas. I change my Amsoil 4t oil 14oz after every race day. (One class)
K&N air filter with outerwear prefilter. Change my filters before every main.
Nice. 👍
I agree with changing after each night of racing. What i am curious about is how often are racers replacing valve springs in ther clones? Have you done a video on this?
Every 3 race weekend
@donaldgrooms714 really? Because I've been running mine for a while season. 8-10 races. But had a feeling that was too much.
My engine guy hasn’t said change them yet. 🤷♂️
Predator 212, 70mm Bore, 55mm Stroke, Stock side cover, (makes a difference with oil level)14 oz Lucas Karting oil, New oil before race night. Clean K&N with oil, no pre-filter. 1 Class, 1 Hot Lap Session, 1 Heat Race, 1 feature. Rinse and repeat. Stock Appearing class, only entry, ran with the Modified Small block opens, and all billets, finished 4th last night. Not too bad IMHO.
Heck yeh!
It is difficult to find any info on this Dyno K oil. Is this a new product? Would like to know if there is any literature or anybody with first hand testimony. Thanks for your channel. It is some good informative.
www.dynocams.com/
I believe it to be a product of Dyno Cams. I use it per my engine builders recommendation. Haven’t ever used others to compare, so I go on their experience.
@@kart6t3_ben Thak you. I appreciate it. Enjoy your channel and your info 👍
Dyno K has been around for over 20 years.
@@jamietwigg5152 Good to know that but trying to find out the benefits of it. Seen a claim of a 1/2 horsepower gain. There are a lot of opinions out there. We are running tillitsons 225rs and have had some cam failures. Our motor guy recommends hydrotex 5 30. Tillitson says T4 ?? Guess it’s difficult to really know.
@@trctdon1 that 1/2 hp gain claim was for flatheads, they had more blow by than clones, so additives in dyno k burned.
That isn't the case with a clone.
Several discussions on Bob's about Dyno k oil.
Everyone has a recommendation, sometimes it's a sponsorship deal.
By a good brand oil and keep it changed.
More modifications to the engine, the more frequent the oil change.
I changed every night amsoil 4t and run alcohol
Amsoil is some good stuff.
Would having the govenor gears and oil level sensor removed plus the angle of your mount change volume you would want run? I run a backyard track .
Maybe? I wouldn’t say much. Hate to say for certain without an engine guy chiming in.
I change mine 3 times a night after practice heats and main put up at the end of the with fresh oil
Can’t disagree 👍
Power + once a night
KSR every 60 laps
Keep seeing KSR. Must be good stuff.
Kevin smith builds one hell of an engine, clone, limited, opens are all mules.. been using him for 13 years now