Naoto, I've always been doing what I thought was sharpening something until now! Watching you and listening to your expertice on each and every aspect of properly sharpening a knife (which in turn should make me a better tool sharpener as well!?). I've learned more in 2 or 3 days from you than what I'd picked up over 40 years of "sharpening" my own way. Thank you so much!! I'm a knife freak now...
Low grit stones are underrated. So are belt sanders and grinding wheels. Setting the bevel on low grit is very important. I've learned to not be afraid to go down-grit when I notice something I overlooked (after wasting a lot of time trying to fix the flaw on a 1K or even 3K). Some day I may break down and get a grinding wheel with an angle adjuster thingy on it, to use with low grit and get a machine-like bevel angle to work with, with a tiny bit of hollow grind to it.
Thanks a lot for this! I bought my first proper japanese knife (still in the mail) and decided to get into sharpening too! Your videos are always really informative and really fun to watch! I bought two stones: the Shapton Pro 1000 and 5000, and will be practicing on my old wusthofs/ sabatier deglon I got from culinary school.
Just ordered whetstones and now looking into buying japanese knives. Based on your experience can I buy them based on pictures and descriptions on web sites or do you feel it's critical to hold them in our hands before purchasing? I live in Montreal where Knifewear isn't (yet) present!
Between sharpening episodes, must whetstones be stored continuously immersed in clean water or would it be more recmmendable to allow them to dry up each time until you need to make use of them again?
Damn, if I wasn't sure I could sharpen my new Moritaka before, I am really concerned now. So many steps to remember and so much that can go wrong! For instance, is it 15 degrees for the bevel or for the micro bevel? How do I keep the profile at the tip and heel?
15 for the micro bevel, and keep your motion coming from your elbows instead of your wrists to keep that consistent angle. And if you mess it up, you can always bring it back to us for a get-out-of-jail-free card!
Our cheap kitchen knives are dull and can't slice a tomato without squishing it. Ordered some whetstones on amazon to try to fix them and the results suck. Watched this video and was making pretty much all of the mistakes listed. I guess I'll try again starting at 400
Nice insight about using different grits for different steels. I am wondering what would be a good stone progression for a mirror polish (I have naniwa pro 800 and 3000).
Why would using a higher grit on a softer steel cause the edge to not last as long? Surely there would be more steel left on edge to maintain its edge if you use a higher grit?
Good question! The general theory is that the microscopic points that form the edge will fold much easier when made from softer steel. The finer the stone, the finer the "teeth" created, so finer edges tend to dull more quickly. Combined with softer steel, they can dull very fast.
Hi guys! I have a knife I bought a while back. The profile is hard to keep a sharp edge consistently, can you guys fix the profile and restore the Kasumi? It would also need a new wa handle and I’m not sure if you guys offer that service
Knives also bend because of sharpening and use. Some of the stresses in the steel from its inception get released as metal is removed. Every molecule in the knife is pushing on its neighbors. Remove enough in one direction and the metal moves in the other direction.
Overall great tips but I disagree on one thing. I think intermediate lvl Sharpeners that want to get better should over thin the knife at least once. Do it gradually and go testing to know the limit of how good the knife can be. Once you overdo and it starts chipping or rolling take a step back. Most people recommend 20 degrees for western knives but if you cut without impact and don't touch bones this is too much. I use a thin 10 degrees edge with 15 degree microbevel on all my soft steel knives and never had any issues. You only need higher angle if the heat treatment is compromised with grain growth, retained austenite or the edge was burned during sharpening.
In theory putting an edge above 8000 is creating a press cut edge (think shaving). Pulling or pushing that edge has very little efficiency. The edge polishes like a mirror smooth boat hull and rides above scales, flesh and moisture of fish without cutting well unless extra pressure is applied. Cutting softer flesh needs directional teeth on the edge.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Naoto, I've always been doing what I thought was sharpening something until now! Watching you and listening to your expertice on each and every aspect of properly sharpening a knife (which in turn should make me a better tool sharpener as well!?).
I've learned more in 2 or 3 days from you than what I'd picked up over 40 years of "sharpening" my own way.
Thank you so much!! I'm a knife freak now...
Thanks so much Dana, I'm happy I could help!
Low grit stones are underrated. So are belt sanders and grinding wheels. Setting the bevel on low grit is very important. I've learned to not be afraid to go down-grit when I notice something I overlooked (after wasting a lot of time trying to fix the flaw on a 1K or even 3K). Some day I may break down and get a grinding wheel with an angle adjuster thingy on it, to use with low grit and get a machine-like bevel angle to work with, with a tiny bit of hollow grind to it.
Well said!
@@KnifewearKnives ---- (... I just repeated what YOU said!)
Thanks
Thank you Naoto for sharing your knowledge. This was a great follow up to your recent Top Ten Tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice content as always Naoto!
Thank you!
Once again nice tips !
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Naoto !
Thanks a lot for this! I bought my first proper japanese knife (still in the mail) and decided to get into sharpening too! Your videos are always really informative and really fun to watch! I bought two stones: the Shapton Pro 1000 and 5000, and will be practicing on my old wusthofs/ sabatier deglon I got from culinary school.
That's awesome, happy to hear it! Congrats on the new knife!
Very informative thank you
Just ordered whetstones and now looking into buying japanese knives. Based on your experience can I buy them based on pictures and descriptions on web sites or do you feel it's critical to hold them in our hands before purchasing? I live in Montreal where Knifewear isn't (yet) present!
You can absolutely buy online, but don't be afraid to contact us if you need help choosing!
Well hopefully do a Montreal popup this year.
Between sharpening episodes, must whetstones be stored continuously immersed in clean water or would it be more recmmendable to allow them to dry up each time until you need to make use of them again?
Unless you use them every day, I would let them dry between uses!
I have a Miyabi birchwood chef knife..will a Knifewear 4000 grit be sufficient??
Damn, if I wasn't sure I could sharpen my new Moritaka before, I am really concerned now. So many steps to remember and so much that can go wrong! For instance, is it 15 degrees for the bevel or for the micro bevel? How do I keep the profile at the tip and heel?
15 for the micro bevel, and keep your motion coming from your elbows instead of your wrists to keep that consistent angle. And if you mess it up, you can always bring it back to us for a get-out-of-jail-free card!
@@KnifewearKnives Thanks so much for the reply.
Our cheap kitchen knives are dull and can't slice a tomato without squishing it. Ordered some whetstones on amazon to try to fix them and the results suck. Watched this video and was making pretty much all of the mistakes listed. I guess I'll try again starting at 400
Glad I could help!
Nice insight about using different grits for different steels. I am wondering what would be a good stone progression for a mirror polish (I have naniwa pro 800 and 3000).
Check out this video Naoto did for some polishing tips: ruclips.net/video/KisqC1c0A0Y/видео.html
You can't ruin a knife. You only make a smaller one.
What's the knife you were holding at the intro?
Hey, it's one of these knifewear.com/products/masakage-zero-gyuto-210mm?variant=5321138052
Why would using a higher grit on a softer steel cause the edge to not last as long? Surely there would be more steel left on edge to maintain its edge if you use a higher grit?
Good question! The general theory is that the microscopic points that form the edge will fold much easier when made from softer steel. The finer the stone, the finer the "teeth" created, so finer edges tend to dull more quickly. Combined with softer steel, they can dull very fast.
Hi guys! I have a knife I bought a while back. The profile is hard to keep a sharp edge consistently, can you guys fix the profile and restore the Kasumi? It would also need a new wa handle and I’m not sure if you guys offer that service
We can definitely help! Bring it to one of our shops, or you can use our mail in service
knifewear.com/products/knife-sharpening-mail-in-service
Knives also bend because of sharpening and use. Some of the stresses in the steel from its inception get released as metal is removed. Every molecule in the knife is pushing on its neighbors. Remove enough in one direction and the metal moves in the other direction.
Overall great tips but I disagree on one thing. I think intermediate lvl Sharpeners that want to get better should over thin the knife at least once. Do it gradually and go testing to know the limit of how good the knife can be. Once you overdo and it starts chipping or rolling take a step back.
Most people recommend 20 degrees for western knives but if you cut without impact and don't touch bones this is too much.
I use a thin 10 degrees edge with 15 degree microbevel on all my soft steel knives and never had any issues.
You only need higher angle if the heat treatment is compromised with grain growth, retained austenite or the edge was burned during sharpening.
That's great advice!
In theory putting an edge above 8000 is creating a press cut edge (think shaving). Pulling or pushing that edge has very little efficiency. The edge polishes like a mirror smooth boat hull and rides above scales, flesh and moisture of fish without cutting well unless extra pressure is applied. Cutting softer flesh needs directional teeth on the edge.
I feel like yall missed a cut at around the 4:43 mark
Yup 😂🤦
Jesus Christ so many rules & discrepancies. I like the the tips but how do you evaluate what & when to use hard/soft and which grit to start off with…
yes john howard is a waste