PB blaster is amazing, anything rusted will come out. We just did a brake job on a 93 grand cherokee that has sat for 3-4 years. The adjuster for the drum on the passenger side, was so rusted that the threads looked like they were made out of marshmallow, shot of pb and a vice grip later, all was broken free and working fine.
You mean shifting through all the gears after changing the fluid? Yes, you should let your trans sit in each gear for 5-10 miniutes to make sure the fluid is properly dispersed in each gear. I didn't show it sitting, just showing that it shifted smoothly. Good to check if the t-case shifts nicely as well before driving.
Current mileage is 165k. I'm guessing it's all stock so same milage throughout. Only problem I have is an intermittent high rev shift issue where it acts like i'm in wide open throttle and won't shift till like 3500rpm. Guessing it's the TPS which i'll replace eventually. Otherwise very smooth and responsive.
the AW trans DOES NOT!!!!! take ATF+4. I am a transmission re-builder, the only transmissions that go in the jeeps that take ATF+4 are the 518, 500, 48rfe, 45rfe. ect. these are Chrysler transmissions. Also the dipstick is always right! The AW trans is used in a lot of Toyota's today. Dextron3 is perfectly ok in that trans, If I am ever in doubt I use Maxlife. But if your trans calls for ATF+4 you better use it, it will cause drive ability problems. Nick that pink milky looking fluid is moisture in the fluid, that black looking stuff on the filter is nothing to worry about its normal for a trans to have a little of that clutch material in the pan.
Correct. I make a big point about not using ATF+4 at 7:40 because chrysler was trying to get cheap back in the day and use the same fluid for all their models. The maxlife Dex/Merc has been good to me so far
Hey, great video! Is the fluid you put in synthetic? The only Valvoline Max Life I could find in the store is synthetic. Does it matter? THANKS AGAIN!!
im having issue of trani fluid leaking where the 2 dipstick tubes meet. thats where my leak i told you about was coming from. i bout a new upper tube and it still leaks. oh and wish i woulda seen this sooner cause auto parts store told me to use atf+4 so thats what i have in my trani now
I had a small leak at one point around there. Took the quick connect fitting apart and replaced the o-rings, put the old plastic retainer back and all was well again. If your trans already as ATF+4 in it for a while and it's not causing issues then you could probably leave it. It may end up just slipping more if you try to go back to dex/merc now.
Great video very informative. Going to do the same thing here very soon. How many miles does your jeep/ tranny have. And how is the Cherokees tyranny doing so far.
Also, is going through the transmission and the transfer case a necessary step when you change the transfer case and transmission fluid? I have an '89 Laredo with the Selec-Trac Case and I want to know for when the time comes to change mine.
hello again !! i thought the jeep had to be on after you topped off. I alrwady added 2 of those jugs and I idled the jeep for 20 minutes and check the dipstick, it should it was dry !! im also new to the xj community ! thanks in advance
+b20vtechustler It should take 8.5 quarts of dexron II or equivalent. The most accurate way to check is with a warm engine while the jeep is idling in park. The level should be at the full line on the hot side. You can also check it while the transmission is cold and off on the cold side of the dipstick.
It's nothing to do with the filter, usually to do with the fluid. If the transmission fluid wasn't maintined then overtime everything will wear out and the fluid gets crusty. When you actually replace the fluid with new, now it's slippery and all the worn stuff won't grip anymore. Basically transmissions that fail from being services are close to failing anyway. You dont want to backflush them though, that can dislodge stuff that coild mess up a good transmission.
+WMBisme I used 2 Gallons total. AW4 Auto Trans Dry capacity is 8.5 Quarts but it doesn't all come out so you won't add that much. The NP231 Transfer Case Dry capacity is 1.1 Quarts and almost all of it gets replaced.
The 8.5 quarts is the transmission cooler if you have one.If you flush your transmission it would use that 8.5 quarts and maybe more.Take off the return line going from cooler to transmission and put the end of it into a milk jug/or a one gallon jug,then start your engine with transmission in park.As it runs it will push out the old fluid using the new fluid,when jug gets full turn engine off.get another jug,and add more new fluid to transmission.And do it again until the fluid looks clean and new,after that reconnect your line back to transmission.Do not over fill it.check transmission dip stick and add if needed.After road testing and getting the temp up to right temp,recheck fluid and add if needed to top line or full.get all that black trans fluid out of there.
You dropped the pan with the trans dipstick tube still in. Why do people want to remove the tube from the trans. drain pan? People have said it's near impossible to get the dipstick tube out of the pan, it doesn't look like that is a necessary step...
I don't think the lower Dipstick Tube should ever be removed from the Pan. The tube assembly has two parts though, I disconnected the upper tube from the lower tube to make the whole thing easier to remove. It's not easy to separate the 2 parts but i can be done.
NickInTimeFilms It was a little tough, but twist and pull. Came right off. Cleaned and added some trans fluid to the o-ring on the upper tube before reassembly. Easy-peasy.
Running through the gears is just a preemptive measure to allow even the tiniest bit of fluid to work around before initial start up. I also ran through the gears while it was running off camera before first test drive.
NickInTimeFilms Sincerely, that's a total waste of time. Just start the motor and shift through the gears. Better yet, pour in a gallon and take it for a test drive. Nice vid, though. Thanks for your time.
The transfer case takes transmission fluid?I thou that transfer cases used gear oil 90 weight and that the transfer case did not share fluids.anyone know?
From what I've read, the manual has said to use either ATF or light weight M/T Oil. The Trans and T-case don't share fluid, but it just seems like whatever you put in the trans is what goes in the t-case too. I haven't heard of using thick gear oil though.
There is a youtube video on using the special mopar transfer case lubricant for NP245,NP247,AND NP249 IN THE TRANSFER CASE .It's about $15.00 per qt.Because of the progressive coupler inside that works like a limited slip differential,and thus you need the friction modifiers in the fluid.Prior to 1998 jeep used the viscous coupler which was sealed with silicone fluid inside the viscous coupler,butstarting in 1999 they went to a non-sealed progressive coupler with clutch plates that acts a lot like limited slip in a differential.check it out,hope that will help.james
+likskirtspleetscreen It's a bit of a pain. You can either split it about halfway up, or unbolt it from the engine with 1 bolt. I used round vise grips on the bottom half, then tapped it apart from above with a punch.
You should find the transmission dipstick tube on the passenger side right next to the firewall. It is about a foot behind the engine dipstick tube on a 4.0L.
I hope you can help me with a question: I've just bought a 1998 cherokee XJ and it is jerking when shifting from 1st to 2nd and 3rd when the engine is still cold. I bought a new transimission filter and I'm planning to change it. Since I don't know what fluid is in there now, should I drop the pan, change the filter and re-fill? Or should I do the drain, re-fill, run, drain, re-fill, run method and change the filter after that?
Felipe Tiago If you don't have a drain plug then you'll have to pull the pan to drain. I would drain it all, fill it, and run it for a little while to see if it helps your shifting. The drain, fill, drive, repeat method should be used to clean out really bad fluid or if you are switching brands.
NickInTimeFilms The fact is I don't know which brand was used the last time the fluid was changed... but I checked the fluid this morning and it's clear, not light red, but not brown either. It was above the "max" so I'm thinking about draining a little bit. Thanks for your tip and for the video as well!
Felipe Tiago Uhh, Clear isn't a good color. It may mean your trans is full of water, lol. It should be a deep shade of red. I would definitely drain the pan and see what comes out. Only other thing is maybe someone put some power steering fluid inside it instead because they are similar fluids but ATF is recommended.
I put the gasket on dry. Generally gaskets go on dry so that they seal properly. Gaskets and rtv maybe cause it to be too thick and it might leak easier. So just use one or the other unless it specifically calls for a sealer on the gasket.
thank you so much brother great experience for me just replaced my trany fluid
PB blaster is amazing, anything rusted will come out. We just did a brake job on a 93 grand cherokee that has sat for 3-4 years. The adjuster for the drum on the passenger side, was so rusted that the threads looked like they were made out of marshmallow, shot of pb and a vice grip later, all was broken free and working fine.
You mean shifting through all the gears after changing the fluid? Yes, you should let your trans sit in each gear for 5-10 miniutes to make sure the fluid is properly dispersed in each gear. I didn't show it sitting, just showing that it shifted smoothly. Good to check if the t-case shifts nicely as well before driving.
Good on you for spreading the Gospel of St.DexMerc 🤘🏻
Thanks for the great vid, Nick! Got a new (automatic) cherokee, I'll be fussing with this week. This vid will help!
Current mileage is 165k. I'm guessing it's all stock so same milage throughout. Only problem I have is an intermittent high rev shift issue where it acts like i'm in wide open throttle and won't shift till like 3500rpm. Guessing it's the TPS which i'll replace eventually. Otherwise very smooth and responsive.
TPS?
Throttle Position Sensor. It controls your transmission shift points and helps the engine respond to throttle input.
@@NickInTimeFilms Thx. Couldn't remember what the dam thing was called. I need to replace mine.
thanks !! i will check again !! your videos help alot !
the AW trans DOES NOT!!!!! take ATF+4. I am a transmission re-builder, the only transmissions that go in the jeeps that take ATF+4 are the 518, 500, 48rfe, 45rfe. ect. these are Chrysler transmissions. Also the dipstick is always right! The AW trans is used in a lot of Toyota's today. Dextron3 is perfectly ok in that trans, If I am ever in doubt I use Maxlife. But if your trans calls for ATF+4 you better use it, it will cause drive ability problems. Nick that pink milky looking fluid is moisture in the fluid, that black looking stuff on the filter is nothing to worry about its normal for a trans to have a little of that clutch material in the pan.
Correct. I make a big point about not using ATF+4 at 7:40 because chrysler was trying to get cheap back in the day and use the same fluid for all their models. The maxlife Dex/Merc has been good to me so far
Yep-you right
Dex/Merc in the AW4.
the black stuff is off the clutches that have worn away
Hey, great video! Is the fluid you put in synthetic? The only Valvoline Max Life I could find in the store is synthetic. Does it matter? THANKS AGAIN!!
thanks for the post
im having issue of trani fluid leaking where the 2 dipstick tubes meet. thats where my leak i told you about was coming from. i bout a new upper tube and it still leaks. oh and wish i woulda seen this sooner cause auto parts store told me to use atf+4 so thats what i have in my trani now
hmmm. That's an odd place to have a leak. Did you check the o-ring that sits between the upper and lower tube? It should be a tight fit.
yeah not sure why its leaking still. upper tube is brand new.
hope my trani will be ok, everyone told me use atf 4 when i changed fluid and filter
I had a small leak at one point around there. Took the quick connect fitting apart and replaced the o-rings, put the old plastic retainer back and all was well again. If your trans already as ATF+4 in it for a while and it's not causing issues then you could probably leave it. It may end up just slipping more if you try to go back to dex/merc now.
Great video very informative. Going to do the same thing here very soon. How many miles does your jeep/ tranny have. And how is the Cherokees tyranny doing so far.
Also, is going through the transmission and the transfer case a necessary step when you change the transfer case and transmission fluid? I have an '89 Laredo with the Selec-Trac Case and I want to know for when the time comes to change mine.
Good video
thank you so much for this video,
hello again !! i thought the jeep had to be on after you topped off. I alrwady added 2 of those jugs and I idled the jeep for 20 minutes and check the dipstick, it should it was dry !! im also new to the xj community ! thanks in advance
I checked**
+b20vtechustler It should take 8.5 quarts of dexron II or equivalent. The most accurate way to check is with a warm engine while the jeep is idling in park. The level should be at the full line on the hot side. You can also check it while the transmission is cold and off on the cold side of the dipstick.
Whats the truth regarding changing the filter ruins the transmision.
It's nothing to do with the filter, usually to do with the fluid. If the transmission fluid wasn't maintined then overtime everything will wear out and the fluid gets crusty. When you actually replace the fluid with new, now it's slippery and all the worn stuff won't grip anymore. Basically transmissions that fail from being services are close to failing anyway. You dont want to backflush them though, that can dislodge stuff that coild mess up a good transmission.
How much fluid did you use for the transmission and t-case?
+WMBisme I used 2 Gallons total. AW4 Auto Trans Dry capacity is 8.5 Quarts but it doesn't all come out so you won't add that much. The NP231 Transfer Case Dry capacity is 1.1 Quarts and almost all of it gets replaced.
The 8.5 quarts is the transmission cooler if you have one.If you flush your transmission it would use that 8.5 quarts and maybe more.Take off the return line going from cooler to transmission and put the end of it into a milk jug/or a one gallon jug,then start your engine with transmission in park.As it runs it will push out the old fluid using the new fluid,when jug gets full turn engine off.get another jug,and add more new fluid to transmission.And do it again until the fluid looks clean and new,after that reconnect your line back to transmission.Do not over fill it.check transmission dip stick and add if needed.After road testing and getting the temp up to right temp,recheck fluid and add if needed to top line or full.get all that black trans fluid out of there.
You dropped the pan with the trans dipstick tube still in. Why do people want to remove the tube from the trans. drain pan? People have said it's near impossible to get the dipstick tube out of the pan, it doesn't look like that is a necessary step...
I don't think the lower Dipstick Tube should ever be removed from the Pan. The tube assembly has two parts though, I disconnected the upper tube from the lower tube to make the whole thing easier to remove. It's not easy to separate the 2 parts but i can be done.
NickInTimeFilms It was a little tough, but twist and pull. Came right off. Cleaned and added some trans fluid to the o-ring on the upper tube before reassembly. Easy-peasy.
Isn't the engine supposed to RUN while going thru the gears???? I dont think it helps anything without the pump cirkulating the oil? ;-)
its fine if the car is off
Running through the gears is just a preemptive measure to allow even the tiniest bit of fluid to work around before initial start up. I also ran through the gears while it was running off camera before first test drive.
NickInTimeFilms Sincerely, that's a total waste of time. Just start the motor and shift through the gears. Better yet, pour in a gallon and take it for a test drive. Nice vid, though. Thanks for your time.
so i used at4 in my transfercase when i did my sye so would i be alright to drain it all and use dex
It doesn't really matter what you put in the transfer case as its only job is to lubricate. You can leave the ATF+4 without issue
so considering i dont kniw whats in the transmission i can drain and use a dextron 3? and leave my transfer case is it is?
Joe Mcface more then likely yes. If it starts to slip after all is said and done then you know what fluid you did have
ive never been more hesitant to change fluid on a car before but its low on fluid soidont got a choice
oh and i have no idea whats in my transmission
The transfer case takes transmission fluid?I thou that transfer cases used gear oil 90 weight and that the transfer case did not share fluids.anyone know?
From what I've read, the manual has said to use either ATF or light weight M/T Oil. The Trans and T-case don't share fluid, but it just seems like whatever you put in the trans is what goes in the t-case too. I haven't heard of using thick gear oil though.
There is a youtube video on using the special mopar transfer case lubricant for NP245,NP247,AND NP249 IN THE TRANSFER CASE .It's about $15.00 per qt.Because of the progressive coupler inside that works like a limited slip differential,and thus you need the friction modifiers in the fluid.Prior to 1998 jeep used the viscous coupler which was sealed with silicone fluid inside the viscous coupler,butstarting in 1999 they went to a non-sealed progressive coupler with clutch plates that acts a lot like limited slip in a differential.check it out,hope that will help.james
watch on youtube 1999 jeep grand cherokee laredo np247 transfer case rebuild by jim dandy.he has 2 video's watch both they are good.
help, I'm not able to remove the dipstick...
+likskirtspleetscreen It's a bit of a pain. You can either split it about halfway up, or unbolt it from the engine with 1 bolt. I used round vise grips on the bottom half, then tapped it apart from above with a punch.
+NickInTimeFilms I'll try from the top, but maybe is better to do it before unscrew all the bolts...
+NickInTimeFilms Thank you an for the quick answer ;)
+likskirtspleetscreen The upper half is bolted to the engine and the lower half is part of the pan so you'll have to unbolt one of them.
+NickInTimeFilms ok, at the end I pulled the dipstick out easily... I have 1 video on my channel showing it. thx again m8 for support
where is the dipstick on a 1989 jeep cerokee
You should find the transmission dipstick tube on the passenger side right next to the firewall. It is about a foot behind the engine dipstick tube on a 4.0L.
I hope you can help me with a question: I've just bought a 1998 cherokee XJ and it is jerking when shifting from 1st to 2nd and 3rd when the engine is still cold. I bought a new transimission filter and I'm planning to change it. Since I don't know what fluid is in there now, should I drop the pan, change the filter and re-fill? Or should I do the drain, re-fill, run, drain, re-fill, run method and change the filter after that?
Felipe Tiago If you don't have a drain plug then you'll have to pull the pan to drain. I would drain it all, fill it, and run it for a little while to see if it helps your shifting. The drain, fill, drive, repeat method should be used to clean out really bad fluid or if you are switching brands.
NickInTimeFilms The fact is I don't know which brand was used the last time the fluid was changed... but I checked the fluid this morning and it's clear, not light red, but not brown either. It was above the "max" so I'm thinking about draining a little bit. Thanks for your tip and for the video as well!
Felipe Tiago Uhh, Clear isn't a good color. It may mean your trans is full of water, lol. It should be a deep shade of red. I would definitely drain the pan and see what comes out. Only other thing is maybe someone put some power steering fluid inside it instead because they are similar fluids but ATF is recommended.
NickInTimeFilms Ohhh! I'll drain the pan to see, hope it's not water! lol
Did u use any sealant on the gasket or did u just put the gasket on without any?
I put the gasket on dry. Generally gaskets go on dry so that they seal properly. Gaskets and rtv maybe cause it to be too thick and it might leak easier. So just use one or the other unless it specifically calls for a sealer on the gasket.
9:54
Looks Tasty.
what about the f;;;king dipstic tube?
videos are great, language not so much
You get what you pay for, so thanks.
Butch Brooks Grow up...seriously. It's a free video on RUclips. Ever hung out with MEN before? That's how we speak around each other.
Language!